Anhydrous dispersion of at least one particulate substance comprising a polyol and a dispersing polymer soluble in said polyol
An anhydrous dispersion using a polyol and soluble polymeric dispersant stabilizes particulate substances in cosmetic compositions, addressing sedimentation and emulsion stability issues, resulting in improved cosmetic performance.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2025/050253
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-01-31
- Filing Date
- 2025-01-07
- Publication Date
- 2025-08-07
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions face challenges in achieving stable particle dispersions, particularly in anhydrous systems, with issues such as sedimentation and disruption of emulsion stability due to the use of nonionic surfactants, and the need for improved dispersion quality and reduced water sensitivity.
An anhydrous dispersion comprising a polyol and a polymeric dispersant soluble in the polyol is used to stabilize particulate substances, ensuring a stable liquid dispersion without sedimentation and maintaining emulsion stability.
The solution provides a stable, anhydrous dispersion of particulate substances, enhancing cosmetic composition quality by preventing sedimentation and maintaining emulsion stability with reduced water sensitivity.
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Abstract
Description
Anhydrous dispersion of at least one particulate substance comprising a polyol and a dispersing polymer soluble in said polyol
[0001] The present invention is directed to the field of solid cosmetic care and / or makeup compositions.
[0002] Cosmetic compositions, for example foundations, are commonly used to give the skin an esthetic color, but also to enhance the beauty of uneven skin, by making it possible to hide marks and dyschromias, to reduce the visibility of relief imperfections such as pores and wrinkles, and to conceal spots and acne marks. In this regard, coverage, color and obtaining a natural finish are the main properties that are desired.
[0003] Cosmetic compositions conventionally utilize a particulate phase, especially in make-up, with the use of pigments, in particular inorganic pigments, such as titanium dioxide and iron oxides, for providing color. It is known that particles such as pigments can be used in the form of a dispersion in which the particles are dispersed in a dispersion medium to facilitate good color development. This is disclosed in particular in patent JP 2012-097259 A.
[0004] Techniques have also been developed for providing a particulate phase, such as pigments, which has been surface-treated in order to make the particulate phase more resistant to water, sweat, rain, etc. This is disclosed in particular in patents WO 2013 / 018827, WO 2015 / 125622 and JP 2016-74660 A.
[0005] However, there remains a need for improvement in order to improve the quality of the dispersion of the particles and the stability both of the particle dispersion and also of the cosmetic composition into which the particle dispersion is introduced.
[0006] Dispersions of particles in aqueous phase exist, such as those described in patents JP 2012-097259 A, WO 2013 / 018827, WO 2015 / 125622 and JP 2016-74660 A, which disclose dispersions of particles in water. However, there is still room for improvement to further increase the stability of the dispersion of the particles in order to provide a stable liquid dispersion. In addition, the presence of water, which is a volatile compound, requires the use of a sealed container during storage. This represents a constraint and a cost.
[0007] There are also particulate preparations such as those described in patent EP3466399 B1, which discloses anhydrous dispersions of particles that have been made hydrophobic and are dispersible in an aqueous phase. However, these particulate preparations use a nonionic surfactant as dispersant, which needs to be used in a significant amount in order to obtain a fluid consistency of the particulate preparations and a good quality of dispersion of the particulate preparations in an aqueous phase. There is therefore room for improvement in order to use a dispersant in a lower proportion, in particular so as to reduce the risk of the particulate preparation being sensitive to water after it has been introduced in aqueous phase into a cosmetic composition, while making it possible to obtain a fluid consistency of the particulate preparations, and a good quality of dispersion of the particulate preparations in aqueous phase.
[0008] Moreover, the use of a nonionic surfactant as dispersant, when it is introduced into an emulsion, may possibly interfere with the surfactant system of the emulsion and thus disrupt its stability. Consequently, there remains room for improvement in order to use a dispersant in the smallest possible amount, such that the stability of an emulsion is not disrupted when it is introduced into the emulsion.
[0009] FR2996131B1, FR2996132B1, FR2996134 B1 and patent applications WO 2014053576, WO2023285365, FR 3124933, WO2023 / 285363 and FR 3124932 disclose compositions for caring for and / or making up keratin materials with a dispersing polymer comprising a main chain and at least one side chain grafted onto the main chain;
[0010] said main chain being derived from at least one monomer comprising at least one α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation and at least one function chosen from the group constituted of the following functions: carboxylic acid, carboxylic acid ester, carboxylic acid salt and mixtures thereof;
[0011] said side chain comprising at least one linear or branched C2-C8 alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture of alkyleneoxy radicals; said side chain optionally being substituted with a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0012] It is moreover desirable to be able to provide a particulate preparation in the form of a liquid dispersion because this will simplify dispersion in a dispersion medium. However, the particulate preparation, in particular the inorganic pigments, has a tendency to sediment in a dispersion medium, such that, unfortunately, the stability of the dispersion is mediocre, and setting and phase separation (such as color separation) may occur. It is therefore difficult to provide a stable particulate preparation of particles, in particular inorganic particles. Consequently, it is desirable to obtain a particulate preparation which does not sediment over time.
[0013] The applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that this objective was achieved with an anhydrous dispersion (A) of particulate substance(s), comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium:
[0014] a) at least one polyol; and
[0015] b) at least one polymeric dispersant that is soluble in said polyol; and
[0016] c) at least one particulate substance.
[0017] This discovery forms the basis of the invention.Subjects of the invention
[0018] The present invention therefore relates to an anhydrous dispersion (A) of particulate substance(s), comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium:
[0019] a) at least one polyol; and
[0020] b) at least one polymeric dispersant that is soluble in said polyol; and
[0021] c) at least one particulate substance.
[0022] Another subject of the invention relates to a process for producing an anhydrous dispersion (A) of particulate substance(s) as defined above, comprising at least one step of grinding said polyol(s), said polymeric dispersant and said particulate substance(s).
[0023] Another subject of the invention relates to a dispersion (A) which is obtainable by said production process.
[0024] Another subject of the invention also relates to a composition (B) for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium:
[0025] a) at least one aqueous phase;
[0026] b) an anhydrous dispersion (A) of particulate substance(s) as defined above, and which is in particular obtained by at least one step of grinding said polyol(s), said polymeric dispersant and said particulate substance(s).
[0027] The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of the composition (B) as defined above.Definitions
[0028] In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood in particular to mean the skin (of the body, face, area around the eyes, or eyelids).
[0029] The term “physiologically acceptable” is understood to mean compatible with the skin and / or its integuments, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel, and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tautness) liable to discourage the consumer from using this composition.
[0030] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “anhydrous” is understood to mean a composition comprising a content of less than 1.0% by weight and more preferentially of less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or which is even free of water. If applicable, such small amounts of water may in particular be introduced by ingredients of the composition which may contain residual amounts thereof.
[0031] The term “particulate substance” should be understood as meaning solid particles of any shape which are provided in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.Polyol
[0032] The composition according to the invention comprises a) at least one polyol.
[0033] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
[0034] The polyol(s) in accordance with the present invention are present in a form that is liquid at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0035] A polyol that is suitable for the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two –OH functions, in particular at least three –OH functions and more particularly at least four –OH functions.
[0036] The polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are those having in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms and preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0037] Advantageously, the polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
[0038] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 1,3-butylene glycol.
[0039] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of glycerol and 1,3-butylene glycol, preferably with a ratio by mass between the 1,3-butylene glycol and the glycerol ranging from 1 to 5, more preferentially ranging from 2 to 4.
[0040] The polyol(s) is (are) present preferably in a content ranging from 10% to 60% by weight, and more preferentially from 20% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Polymeric dispersant
[0041] The composition according to the invention comprises a) at least one polyol and b) at least one polymeric dispersant that is soluble in said polyol.
[0042] The term “polymeric dispersant” is understood to mean any polymer used in the composition according to the invention in order to avoid agglomeration or flocculation of the dispersed particles.
[0043] The polymeric dispersants in accordance with the invention are preferably solid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure.
[0044] Preferably, the polymeric dispersant comprises a main chain and at least one side chain grafted onto the main chain, said main chain being derived from at least one monomer comprising at least one α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation and at least one function chosen from the group constituted of the following functions: carboxylic acid, carboxylic acid ester, carboxylic acid salt and mixtures thereof;
[0045] said side chain comprising at least one linear or branched C2-C8 alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture of alkyleneoxy radicals; said side chain optionally being substituted with a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0046] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing polymers are constituted of a main chain and of several grafted side chains optionally substituted at their ends with an alkyl group comprising fewer than 6 carbon atoms.
[0047] In the context of the invention, and unless mentioned otherwise, the term “main chain” encompasses the terms “backbone chain” or “backbone” of the polymer. The main chain, comprising the highest number of carbon atoms, differs from the side chains.
[0048] In the context of the present invention, the expression “chain (…) derived from at least one monomer” means that said chain corresponds to the polymer obtained by polymerization of said monomer.
[0049] The dispersing polymers according to the invention are therefore also referred to as “comb copolymers”, the branches of the comb corresponding to the side chains (or pendant chains) constituted of grafts.
[0050] The main chain of the dispersing polymers according to the invention comprises at least one carboxylic acid function or an ester or a salt thereof. It may also comprise mixtures of these functions, esters and salts.
[0051] The main chain may therefore comprise pendant functions COOH, COOAlk or COO-X+, or mixtures thereof, where Alk represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and X represents an alkali or alkaline earth metal, or X+ represents a quaternary ammonium.
[0052] The term “alkyl group” denotes here a saturated, and linear or branched, aliphatic hydrocarbon group comprising, unless otherwise stated, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. By way of examples, mention may be made of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl or pentyl groups.
[0053] In the context of the present invention, the term “quaternary ammonium” denotes a cation obtained, in particular by alkylation, from an amine of formula NR1R2R3, each of the groups R1, R2and R3, which may be identical or different, representing H or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. In particular, the quaternary ammoniums according to the invention include the ammonium cation NH4+.
[0054] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing polymers are constituted of a main chain and of several grafted side chains substituted at their ends with an alkyl group comprising fewer than 6 carbon atoms, and preferably with a methyl group.
[0055] In the context of the invention, the expression “side chain grafted onto the main chain” means that the side chain is connected to the main chain via a covalent bond.
[0056] Mention may be made, for example, of poly(ethylene oxide) and / or poly(propylene oxide) chains grafted via an ester function to the main chain, it being possible for the ester function to result from the reaction between a carboxylic acid function of the monomer of the main chain and a hydroxyl function of the poly(ethylene oxide) and / or of the poly(propylene oxide).
[0057] In the context of the invention, the term “alkyleneoxy radical” is understood to mean an -A'-O- radical in which A' represents an alkylene radical.
[0058] The term “alkylene radical” is intended to denote a divalent radical derived from an alkyl group as defined above lacking two hydrogen atoms. The alkyleneoxy radicals may be linear or branched; A' can therefore represent a linear or branched alkylene radical, comprising in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferably, the alkyleneoxy radicals comprise 2 or 3 carbon atoms.
[0059] Mention may be made, for example, of -CH2-CH2-O- (ethyleneoxy), -CH2-CH(CH3)-O-, -CH(CH3)-CH2-O- or -CH2-CH2-CH2-O- (propyleneoxy) groups.
[0060] In the context of the present invention, the side chains of the dispersing polymers may comprise mixtures of alkyleneoxy radicals of different sizes. According to this embodiment, the side chain may comprise a mixture of -(A'1-O) and (A'2-O)- radicals, A'1and A'2representing different linear or branched alkylene radicals. In particular, the side chain may comprise a mixture of ethyleneoxy and propyleneoxy radicals.
[0061] The side chain (or the side chains) of the dispersing polymer may be substituted with a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferentially 1 to 2 carbon atoms.
[0062] According to one embodiment, the main chain of the dispersing polymer is derived from at least one monomer chosen from (meth)acrylic acids, esters thereof, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.
[0063] According to this embodiment, the main chain of the polymer is chosen from poly(meth)acrylic acids, poly(meth)acrylic acid esters, poly(meth)acrylates and mixtures thereof.
[0064] According to one embodiment, the main chain of the dispersing polymer is derived from a methacrylic acid salt, in particular sodium methacrylate. According to this embodiment, the main chain of the dispersing polymer is sodium polymethacrylate.
[0065] The dispersing polymers comprise, in addition to the main chain, one or more side chains grafted onto said main chain. In other words, the polymers according to the invention are constituted of a main polymer chain comprising a given function (carboxylic acid, or a salt or ester thereof) via which the side chains are connected.
[0066] The dispersing polymers may be represented as being constituted of a given number of repeating units comprising repeating units derived from (meth)acrylic acids, esters thereof, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, and grafted units derived from the above, comprising a graft comprising at least one alkyleneoxy radical as defined above, where appropriate substituted with an alkyl chain as defined above.
[0067] According to one embodiment, the dispersing polymer comprises at least one unsubstituted side chain. Preferably, all the side chains of the dispersing polymer are unsubstituted. The term “unsubstituted side chain” denotes a side chain as defined, comprising at least one linear or branched C2-C8 alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture of alkyleneoxy radicals, and comprising a terminal hydrogen atom.
[0068] According to one embodiment, the dispersing polymer comprises at least one side chain which is substituted with a methyl or ethyl chain, in particular a methyl chain. Preferably, the side chains of the dispersing polymer are substituted with a methyl chain.
[0069] According to one embodiment, the dispersing polymer comprises at least one side chain constituted of ethyleneoxy or propyleneoxy radicals or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the side chains of the dispersing polymer are constituted of ethyleneoxy or propyleneoxy radicals or mixtures thereof.
[0070] According to one embodiment, the side chains of the polymer may be distributed randomly, statistically or in the form of sequences (block or sequenced copolymers).
[0071] The dispersing polymers according to the invention may be block copolymers corresponding to the assembly of blocks with side chains and of blocks without side chains.
[0072] Preferably, the side chains of the dispersing polymer are distributed randomly or statistically. Preferentially, they are distributed statistically.
[0073] According to one embodiment, the dispersing polymer according to the invention is linear. In particular, it is not a crosslinked polymer.
[0074] According to a preferred embodiment, the dispersing polymer is a comb copolymer comprising a main chain of polymethacrylic acid (or a salt thereof) grafted with polyethylene oxide and / or polypropylene oxide side chains.
[0075] According to one embodiment, the side chain comprises from 20 to 200, preferably from 50 to 150, and preferentially from 50 to 100, alkyleneoxy groups.
[0076] According to one embodiment, the side chain comprises only ethyleneoxy groups.
[0077] According to one embodiment, the side chain comprises only propyleneoxy groups.
[0078] According to one embodiment, the side chain comprises a mixture of ethyleneoxy groups and propyleneoxy groups, said groups being distributed randomly or statistically.
[0079] According to one embodiment, the mass-average molecular mass (Mw) of the abovementioned dispersing polymer ranges from 10 000 to 4 000 000 g / mol, preferably from 20 000 to 2 000 000 g / mol, and even more preferentially from 30 000 to 1 900 000 g / mol.
[0080] Preferably, the mass-average molecular mass (Mw) of the abovementioned dispersing polymer ranges from 40 000 to 1 500 000, preferably from 42 000 to 1 000 000, preferentially from 45 000 to 500 000, and more preferentially from 50 000 to 100 000 g / mol.
[0081] According to a preferred embodiment, the mass-average molecular mass (Mw) of the abovementioned dispersing polymer ranges from 20 000 to 300 000 g / mol, preferably from 20 000 to 200 000 g / mol, and preferentially from 30 000 g / mol to 120 000 g / mol. Preferably, the mass-average molecular mass (Mw) of the abovementioned dispersing polymer ranges from 40 000 to 80 000 g / mol.
[0082] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the mass-average molecular mass (Mw) of the abovementioned dispersing polymer ranges from 50 000 to 90 000 g / mol, preferably from 70 000 to 80 000 g / mol. Preferentially, the mass-average molecular mass (Mw) of the abovementioned dispersing polymer is equal to approximately 75 000 g / mol.
[0083] The choice of this appropriate range of molecular masses enables a good compromise as regards, firstly, a limitation of depletion phenomena and, secondly, an efficiency which is not concentration-sensitive.
[0084] According to one embodiment, the dispersing polymer according to the invention comprises at least one unit of the following formula (I):
[0085] (I)
[0086] in which:
[0087] - n is an integer ranging from 50 to 4000, preferably from 60 to 2500;
[0088] - i is an integer ranging from 1 to n;
[0089] - the groups R'i, which may be identical or different, represent, independently of one another, H or a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5 and preferentially 1 or 2, carbon atoms; and
[0090] the groups Ri, which may be identical or different, are chosen, independently of one another, from the group constituted of: -C(=O)OH, -C(=O)O-X+and -C(=O)O-(A)p-Ra, at least one of the groups Rirepresenting -C(=O)O-(A)p-Ra, where:
[0091] - X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal, especially Na or K; or X+represents a quaternary ammonium;
[0092] - Rarepresents H or a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6, preferably from 1 to 4, and preferentially 1 or 2, carbon atoms;
[0093] - A represents a linear or branched, C2-C8 alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture thereof; and
[0094] - p is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, preferably from 50 to 150.
[0095] The dispersing polymer according to the invention may therefore be constituted of the repetition of n units -CH2-CH(R'i)(Ri)-, it being possible for each of these units to be identical or different, depending on the nature of Riand R'ifor each unit, and at least one of these units comprising a -C(=O)O-(A)p-Ragroup, corresponding to a grafted side chain.
[0096] According to one embodiment, the dispersing polymer according to the invention comprises at least one repeating unit (T1) and at least one repeating unit (T2), said repeating units having the following respective formulae:
[0097]
[0098] or
[0099]
[0100] in which:
[0101] p is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, preferably from 50 to 150;
[0102] X is H or an alkali or alkaline earth metal, and is especially Na or K; or X+represents a quaternary ammonium;
[0103] Rarepresents H or a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6, preferably from 1 to 4, and preferentially 1 or 2, carbon atoms;
[0104] R and R', which may be identical or different, represent, independently of one another, H or a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5 and preferentially 1 or 2, carbon atoms; and
[0105] A represents a linear or branched, C2-C8, preferably C2-C3, alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture thereof.
[0106] According to one embodiment, the dispersing polymer is constituted of x repeating units (T1) and y repeating units (T2), these units being distributed randomly or statistically, where:
[0107] x is an integer ranging from 50 to 3000, preferably from 60 to 1500; and
[0108] y is an integer ranging from 5 to 1000, preferably from 5 to 600; the sum x+y corresponding to the number n defined above.
[0109] According to the invention, the repeating units (T1) and (T2) may be alternated randomly in the abovementioned polymer.
[0110] According to the invention, the repeating units (T1) and (T2) may be alternated statistically in the abovementioned polymer.
[0111] According to the invention, the repeating units (T1) and (T2) may be distributed in blocks or sequences in the abovementioned polymer.
[0112] According to one embodiment, in the formulae (I), (T1) and (T2) defined above, X represents Na.
[0113] According to one embodiment, in the formulae (I) and (T2) defined above, each Rarepresents H or a methyl group.
[0114] According to one embodiment, in the formulae (I) and (T2) defined above, each Rarepresents H.
[0115] According to one embodiment, in the formulae (I) and (T2) defined above, each Rarepresents a methyl group.
[0116] According to one embodiment, in the formula (T1) defined above, R is H or a methyl group.
[0117] According to one embodiment, in the formula (I) defined above, the groups R'iare H or a methyl group.
[0118] According to one embodiment, in the formula (T2) defined above, R' is H or a methyl group.
[0119] According to one embodiment, in the formula (T2) defined above, the radical A corresponds to formula (II) or (III) below:
[0120]
[0121] or
[0122]
[0123] in which:
[0124] A1represents a –CH2CH2O- radical;
[0125] A2represents a –CH2CH(CH3)O- or -CH(CH3)-CH2-O- radical;
[0126] j and k, which may be identical or different, represent, independently of one another, an integer ranging from 0 to 50, preferably from 0 to 25;
[0127] provided that the sum j + k is greater than or equal to 1, and preferably greater than or equal to 50.
[0128] According to one embodiment, the dispersing polymer corresponds to the following formula:
[0129]
[0130] in which:
[0131] R'ais H or CH3;
[0132] x is an integer ranging from 50 to 3000;
[0133] y is an integer ranging from 5 to 1000; and
[0134] p is an integer ranging from 20 to 200,
[0135] the units -CH2-C(R)(C(=O)ONa)- and -CH2-C(R')(C(=O)O-(CH2-CH2-O)pR'a)- being distributed randomly or statistically.
[0136] Preferably, the dispersing polymer corresponds to the following formula:
[0137]
[0138] in which x, y and p are as defined above, the units -CH2-C(R)(C(=O)ONa)- and -CH2-C(R')(C(=O)O-(CH2-CH2-O)pCH3)- being distributed randomly or statistically, preferably statistically.
[0139] According to one embodiment, the dispersing polymer is a copolymer derived from methacrylic acid and from poly(ethylene oxide) methyl ether methacrylate.
[0140] According to another embodiment, the polymer is a copolymer derived from methacrylic acid and from poly(propylene oxide) methyl ether methacrylate.
[0141] According to one embodiment, the dispersing polymer is a copolymer derived from methacrylic acid and from poly(ethylene oxide)-(propylene oxide) methyl ether methacrylate.
[0142] The dispersing polymer according to the invention is described, for example, in document US6034208 and is obtained by known processes, and in particular by radical polymerization in solution, in direct or inverse emulsion, in suspension or precipitation in solvents, in the presence of initiating systems and transfer agents, or else in controlled radical polymerization and preferentially in nitroxide-mediated polymerization (NMP) or cobaloxime-mediated polymerization, in atom transfer radical polymerization (ATRP), in radical polymerization mediated by sulfur derivatives, chosen from carbamates, dithioesters or trithiocarbonates (RAFT) or xanthates.
[0143] It may be totally or partially neutralized by one or more neutralizing agents having a monovalent or polyvalent cation, said agents being preferentially chosen from aqueous ammonia or from calcium or magnesium hydroxides and / or oxides, or from sodium, potassium or lithium hydroxides, or from primary, secondary or tertiary aliphatic and / or cyclic amines such as preferentially stearylamine, ethanolamines (mono-, di-, triethanolamine), mono- and diethylamine, cyclohexylamine, methylcyclohexylamine, aminomethylpropanol, morpholine, and preferentially the neutralizing agent is chosen from triethanolamine and sodium hydroxide.
[0144] It may also be separated into several phases, in static or dynamic processes, using one or more polar solvents preferentially belonging to the group constituted of water, methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanols, acetone, tetrahydrofuran or mixtures thereof.
[0145] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the dispersant is a copolymer methacrylic acid co-methacrylic of POE PPO OH : polyether polycarbonate, sodium salt in aqueous solution.
[0146] Preferably, the dispersing polymer has the INCI name Sodium Methacrylate / PEG / PPG-45 / 15 Hydroxypropyl Methacrylate Copolymer.
[0147] A composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total content of polymeric dispersant(s) of greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably of greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, even more preferentially in a content ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in a content ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Particulate substance
[0148] The anhydrous composition according to the invention comprises c) at least one particulate substance.
[0149] The particulate substance is preferably chosen from fillers, particulate colorants, and mixtures thereof.Fillers
[0150] The term “fillers” should be understood as meaning colorless or white solid particles of any shape which are provided in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Mineral or organic in nature, they make it possible to confer softness, mattness and uniformity of makeup on the composition.
[0151] The filler(s) used in the composition of the invention is (are) chosen from mineral fillers, organic fillers, and mixtures thereof.
[0152] The filler(s) used in the composition of the invention is (are) present preferably in a content ranging from 40% to 90% by weight, more preferentially from 50% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the pulverulent phase.
[0153] Among the mineral fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talcs, natural micas, synthetic micas such as fluorphlogopite, silica, magnesium and aluminum silicates, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads from Maprecos), silica-based fillers, for instance Aerosil 200® or Aerosil 300®; Sunsphere H-33® and Sunsphere H-51® sold by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen® sold by Asahi Chemical; composites of silica and of titanium dioxide, for instance the TSG® series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass, perlite powders, and mixtures thereof.
[0154] Among the organic fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), poly-β-alanine and polyethylene powders, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) powders, lauroyl lysine, starches such as native corn starches having the INCI name: ZEA MAYS (CORN) STARCH, modified starches such as aluminum starch octenylsuccinate (Dry Flo), tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl® from Toshiba, for example), spherical organopolysiloxane elastomer powders having the INCI name: DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (DOWSIL TREFIL E-506 S Silicone Powder®, DOWSIL 9506 Powder® from Dow Corning Chemical), polyurethane powders, in particular powders of crosslinked polyurethane comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone, for instance the hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone polymer sold under the name Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800® by the company Toshiki, carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of polyethylene wax, such as those sold under the names MicroCare 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders; fibers of synthetic or natural and mineral or organic origin.
[0155] They may be short or long, individual or organized, for example braided, and hollow or solid. They may have any shape and may in particular have a circular or polygonal (square, hexagonal or octagonal) cross section depending on the specific application envisaged. In particular, their ends are blunted and / or polished to prevent injury. The fibers have a length ranging from 1 µm to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and better still from 0.3 mm to 3 mm. Their cross section may be comprised in a circle with a diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 µm, preferably ranging from 100 nm to 100 µm and better still from 1 µm to 50 µm; and mixtures thereof.Particulate colorant
[0156] According to a preferential form, the dispersion (A) comprises at least one particulate colorant.
[0157] The particulate colorant(s) according to the invention is (are) preferably chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents and reflective particles, and mixtures thereof.
[0158] A composition according to the invention may comprise a content of particulate colorant(s) preferably ranging from 40% to 90% by weight and preferentially ranging from 50% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Pigments
[0159] The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or colored, mineral or organic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the physiological medium.
[0160] The pigments may be white or colored, and mineral and / or organic.
[0161] Among the mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, and also zinc oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, pink or violet, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, bismuth oxychloride and metal powders, for instance aluminum powder or copper powder.
[0162] According to a particular form of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic coating.
[0163] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl titanium triisostearate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; synthetic polar waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; silicone surfactants such as organopolysiloxanes, alkylalkoxysilanes such as triethoxycaprylylsilane; fluorinated surfactants such as perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFEs), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups; fluorosilicone surfactants such as perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes and perfluoroalkyltrialkoxysilanes; and mixtures thereof.
[0164] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with an N-acylamino acid or a salt thereof, which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
[0165] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylamino acid derivative which may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, for instance aluminum stearoyl glutamate. As examples of pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, mention may be made of titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade name NAI® by the company Miyoshi Kasei.
[0166] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with isopropyl titanium triisostearate. Mention may be made, as examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT), of those sold under the trade names BWBO-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BWYO-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) and BWRO-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) by the company Kobo.
[0167] The organic pigments may be chosen from the materials below, and mixtures thereof:
[0168] - cochineal carmine,
[0169] - organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes and fluoran dyes.
[0170] Among the organic pigments, mention may particularly be made of the D&C certified pigments known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6.
[0171] The chemical materials corresponding to each of the abovementioned organic colorants are mentioned in the publication “International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook”, 1997 edition, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by “The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association”.
[0172] More particularly, the pigments will be chosen from titanium dioxides, iron oxides (black, yellow or red), and mixtures thereof; said pigments optionally comprising at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic coating.Pearlescent agents
[0173] The term “pearlescent agents” should be understood as meaning colored particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or else synthesized, and which have a color effect via optical interference.
[0174] Examples of pearlescent agents that may be mentioned include pearlescent pigments such as titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an iron oxide, mica covered with bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with chromium oxide, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or of organic colorants.
[0175] The pearlescent agents may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, green, blue, violet and / or coppery color or tint.
[0176] By way of illustration of pearlescent agents that may be introduced into the composition, mention may be made of the gold-colored pearlescent agents sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the names Brillant Gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold® (Timica), Gold 4504® (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X® (Cloisonne); the bronze pearlescent agents sold in particular by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze® (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super Bronze® (Cloisonne); the orange pearlescent agents sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the names Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101® (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the names Passion Orange® (Colorona) and Matte Orange® (17449) (Microna); the brown pearlescent agents sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the names Nu-Antique Copper 340XB® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509® (Chromalite); the pearlescent agents with a copper tint sold by the company Engelhard under the name Copper 340A® (Timica); the pearlescent agents with a red tint sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Sienna Fine® (17386) (Colorona); the pearlescent agents with a yellow tint sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow® (4502) (Chromalite); the red pearlescent agents with a gold tint sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012® (Gemtone); the pink pearlescent agents sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Tan Opal G005® (Gemtone); the black pearlescent agents with a gold tint sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-Antique Bronze 240 AB® (Timica), the blue pearlescent agents sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue® (17433) (Microna); the white pearlescent agents with a silvery tint sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver® and the golden-green pink-orange pearlescent agents sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Indian Summer® (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.
[0177] Still as examples of pearlescent agents, mention may also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
[0178] Particles comprising a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are sold in particular under the name Metashine MC1080RY® by the company Toyal.
[0179] Lastly, examples of pearlescent agents that may also be mentioned include polyethylene terephthalate glitter flakes, in particular those sold by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver 1P 0.004X0.004® (silvery glitter flakes).Reflective particles
[0180] The term “reflective particles” denotes particles of which the size, structure, especially the thickness of the layer(s) of which they are made and their physical and chemical nature, and surface state, allow them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have an intensity sufficient to create at the surface of the composition or of the mixture, when it is applied to the support to be made up, highlight points that are visible to the naked eye, i.e. more luminous points that contrast with their environment, making them appear to sparkle.
[0181] The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloration effect generated by the coloring agents with which they are combined, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendition. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and / or coppery color or tint.
[0182] These particles may have varied forms and may in particular be in platelet or globular form, in particular in spherical form.
[0183] The reflective particles, whatever their form, may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, may have, for example, at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.
[0184] When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained synthetically.
[0185] When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may comprise, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular of at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be organic and / or inorganic and made of a single material or multiple materials.
[0186] More particularly, it may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, and synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, this list not being limiting.
[0187] The reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or of a metallic material.
[0188] Reflective particles are described in particular in the documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
[0189] Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made of particles comprising a silver-coated borosilicate substrate.
[0190] Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS® by the company Toyal. Particles with a glass substrate coated with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy are sold under the names Crystal Star GF 550® and GF 2525® by the same company.
[0191] Use may also be made of particles comprising a metal substrate, such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze or titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides, and mixtures thereof.
[0192] Examples that may be mentioned include the aluminum, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO2, sold under the name Visionaire® by Eckart.
[0193] More particularly, the particulate colorant(s) will be chosen from pigments and more particularly from titanium dioxides, iron oxides (black, yellow or red), and mixtures thereof; said pigments more particularly optionally comprising at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic coating agent.
[0194] According to a particular form of the invention, the particulate colorant(s) is (are) chosen from:
[0195] - titanium dioxides (CI: 77891), which are preferably hydrophobically coated, and more particularly with sodium lauroyl glutamate and lysine, such as the commercial product ASL-1 TIO2 CR-50® from the company Daito Kasei Kogyo with the INCI name CI 77891 (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE (and) SODIUM LAUROYL GLUTAMATE (and) LYSINE (and) MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE;
[0196] - yellow iron oxides (CI: 77492), which are preferably hydrophobically coated, and more particularly with sodium lauroyl glutamate and lysine, such as the commercial product ASL-1 YELLOW LL-100P ® from the company Daito Kasei Kogyo with the INCI name CI 77492 (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE (and) SODIUM LAUROYL GLUTAMATE (and) LYSINE (and) MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE;
[0197] - red iron oxides (CI: 77491), which are preferably hydrophobically coated, and more particularly with sodium lauroyl glutamate and lysine, such as the commercial product ASL-2 RED R-516P ® from the company Daito Kasei Kogyo with the INCI name CI 77491 (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE (and) SODIUM LAUROYL GLUTAMATE (and) LYSINE (and) MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE;
[0198] - black iron oxides (CI: 77499), which are preferably hydrophobically coated, and more particularly with sodium lauroyl glutamate and lysine, such as the commercial product ASL-1 BLACK BL-100P ® from the company Daito Kasei Kogyo with the INCI name CI 77499 (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE (and) SODIUM LAUROYL GLUTAMATE (and) LYSINE (and) MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE;
[0199] - mixtures thereof.
[0200] Process for producing an anhydrous dispersion (A) of particulate substance(s)
[0201] Another subject of the invention relates to a process for producing an anhydrous dispersion (A) of particulate substance(s) as defined above, comprising at least one step of grinding said polyol(s), said polymeric dispersant and said particulate substance(s).
[0202] The particulate substance(s), the polymeric dispersant and the polyol(s) are mixed, in proportions in accordance with the invention, and are then ground with a mill for liquid dispersion of particles, such as for example an Exakt 50i® three-roll mill.
[0203] Composition (B) for caring for and / or making up keratin materials
[0204] Another subject of the invention also relates to a composition (B) for caring for and / or making up keratin materials as defined above, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium:
[0205] a) at least one aqueous phase; and
[0206] b) an anhydrous dispersion (A) as defined above which is obtained by at least one step of grinding the particulate substance(s), the polymeric dispersant and the polyol(s).
[0207] The care and / or makeup compositions (B) according to the invention may be chosen from gels, creams, milks and lotions.
[0208] The care and / or makeup compositions (B) according to the invention may be liquid or solid such as hot-cast products.
[0209] The care and / or makeup compositions (B) according to the invention may be chosen from multiphase compositions such as emulsions, for instance oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil multiple emulsions, or two- or three-phase compositions, in particular two-phase gels also referred to as gel / gel compositions such as those described in patents EP2958540B1, EP2958541B1, EP3185958B1.
[0210] Suitable care and / or makeup compositions (B) according to the invention may contain one or more compounds which are well known to those skilled in the art and generally present in foundations.
[0211] The care and / or makeup compositions (B) according to the invention may additionally comprise additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products, such as:
[0212] - active agents, for instance moisturizers such as hydroxyethyl urea, vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C and B3, adenosine, and hyaluronic acid and salts thereof;
[0213] - ceramides;
[0214] - UV screening agents;
[0215] - water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes;
[0216] - hydrophilic gelling agents;
[0217] - lipophilic gelling agents;
[0218] - fragrances;
[0219] - preserving agents;
[0220] - and mixtures thereof.
[0221] Such compositions are particularly prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.
[0222] According to a particular embodiment, composition (B) according to the invention is a skincare product, in particular an anti-sun product, a product for oily skin, a product for dry skin or an anti-ageing product.
[0223] According to a particular embodiment, composition (B) according to the invention is a product for making up the face, such as a foundation; a product for making up the lips, such as lipsticks; a product for making up the eyelashes or the eyebrows, such as mascaras or eyeliners.
[0224] Obviously, those skilled in the art will adapt the nature of the compounds of the composition by using their common general knowledge to prepare a composition (B) which can be used in the context of the invention.
[0225] For high-viscosity compositions (B), such as thick creams, the viscosity, measured at 25°C and under atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 4.5 Pa.s at a shear rate of 200 s-1and less than or equal to 50 Pa.s (using a Brookfield Rheomat RM 180® viscometer equipped with a No. 4 spindle, the measurement being effected after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in order to stabilize the rotational speed and the viscosity).
[0226] For more fluid compositions (B), the viscosity may be less than 4.5 Pa.s, for example between 1 mPa.s (or 1 cps) and 4.5 Pa.s at a shear rate of 200 s-1(using a Brookfield Rheomat RM 180® viscometer equipped with a No. 4 spindle, the measurement being effected after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in order to stabilize the rotational speed and the viscosity).Assembly
[0227] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising:
[0228] i) a container delimiting one or more compartments, said container being closed by a closing element; and
[0229] ii) a makeup and / or care composition (B) in accordance with the invention, arranged inside said compartment(s).
[0230] The container may be, for example, in the form of a pot or a case.
[0231] The closing element may be in the form of a lid or a tear-off cover. In particular, this closing element may comprise a cap mounted so as to be able to move by translation or by pivoting relative to the container housing said makeup and / or care composition(s).
[0232] It is understood that, in the context of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0233] Throughout the patent application, the expression “comprises a” should be understood as meaning “comprising at least one”, unless otherwise specified.
[0234] It is understood that the examples which follow are present by way of illustration and that they do not in any way limit the scope of the protection conferred by the present patent application.Examples
[0235] The following pigment dispersions (A1) (invention) and (A2) (outside of the invention) were produced according to the following protocol.
[0236] IngredientsDispersion (A1) (invention)Dispersion (A2)(outside of the invention)CI 77891 (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE (and) SODIUM LAUROYL GLUTAMATE (and) LYSINE (and) MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE(ASL-1 TIO2CR-50® - Daito Kasei Kogyo)75%75%SODIUM METHACRYLATE / PEG / PPG-45 / 15 HYDROXYPROPYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER0.4% AMPEG-9 DIMETHICONE(KF-6013® - Shin-Etsu)0.4%1,3 BUTYLENE GLYCOL24%24%WATER0.6%Protocol for preparing pigment dispersions A1 and A2:
[0237] The ingredients were premixed with a spatula and then the mixture was ground using an Exakt 50i® three-roll mill.
[0238] The pigment preparations (A1) and (A2) were then characterized in terms of rheology in order to measure the consistency value G*, and the quality of the composition (B1) or (B2) obtained by introducing, respectively, dispersion (A1) or dispersion (A2) into water is evaluated. The results are indicated in table 2.
[0239] CharacterizationsComposition (B1) obtained with dispersion 1 according to the inventionComposition (B2) obtained with dispersion 2 outside of the inventionConsistency G* (Pa)Measurement 11.7 x 104Pa2.7 x 106PaMeasurement 21.3 x 104Pa1.7 x 106PaAverage of the two measurements1.5 x 104Pa2.2 x 106PaDispersion in water andobservation under a microscopeHomogeneous dispersionHeterogeneous dispersionRheology protocol:
[0240] The rheological measurements were carried out in an imposed-stress rheometer (RheoStress 600®, Haake). The shear stress and rate gradient measurements are carried out using a plate sensor and a measuring plate (PP35 S; 35 mm in diameter, sand-blasted), with a gap of 0.500 mm.
[0241] The temperature of the gap is set at 25°C. An isotherm of 180 seconds at this temperature is applied before each measurement. An upward oscillation curve with an amplitude sweep is imposed with a stress ramp ranging from 1 to 103Pa, with a frequency set at 1 Hz with 20 stationary phases.
[0242] Protocol for studying the quality of dispersion in water:
[0243] A spatula tip of each particulate dispersion (A1) or (A2) is dispersed in water. The quality of dispersion of the composition (B1) or (B2) obtained was then observed under a microscope.
[0244] A lower complex modulus G* indicates a more fluid consistency.
[0245] The anhydrous pigment dispersion (A1) according to the invention enabled an aqueous composition (B1) to be obtained with a more fluid consistency and with a better quality of dispersion in aqueous phase, compared to the aqueous composition (B2) outside of the invention, which uses the aqueous pigment dispersion (A2) with the surfactant PEG-9 Dimethicone.
[0246] Moreover, the composition (B1) according to the invention did not sediment over time after two months at ambient temperature.
Claims
An anhydrous dispersion (A) of particulate substance(s), comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium:a) at least one polyol; andb) at least one polymeric dispersant that is soluble in said polyol; andc) at least one particulate substance.The dispersion as claimed in claim 1, comprising at least 1,3-butylene glycol, and preferably a mixture of glycerol and 1,3-butylene glycol, more preferentially with a ratio by mass between the 1,3-butylene glycol and the glycerol ranging from 1 to 5, more particularly ranging from 2 to 4.The dispersion as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyol(s) is (are) present preferably in a content ranging from 10% to 60% by weight, and more preferentially from 20% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The dispersion as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polymeric dispersant is a dispersing polymer comprising a main chain and at least one side chain grafted onto the main chain,said main chain being derived from at least one monomer comprising at least one α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation and at least one function chosen from the group constituted of the following functions: carboxylic acid, carboxylic acid ester, carboxylic acid salt and mixtures thereof;said side chain comprising at least one linear or branched C2-C8 alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture of alkyleneoxy radicals; said side chain optionally being substituted with a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.The dispersion as claimed in claim 4, wherein the main chain of the polymeric dispersant is derived from at least one monomer chosen from (meth)acrylic acids, esters thereof, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.The dispersion as claimed in claim 4 or 5, wherein the main chain of the polymeric dispersant is derived from a methacrylic acid salt.The dispersion as claimed in any one of claims 4 to 6, wherein the polymeric dispersant comprises at least one unsubstituted side chain.The dispersion as claimed in any one of claims 4 to 7, wherein the polymeric dispersant comprises at least one side chain which is substituted with a methyl or ethyl chain.The dispersion as claimed in any one of claims 4 to 8, wherein the polymeric dispersant comprises at least one side chain constituted of ethyleneoxy or propyleneoxy radicals or mixtures thereof.The dispersion as claimed in any one of claims 4 to 9, wherein the side chains of the polymeric dispersant are distributed randomly or statistically.The dispersion as claimed in any one of claims 4 to 10, wherein the polymeric dispersant is a comb copolymer comprising a main chain of polymethacrylic acid grafted with polyethylene oxide and / or polypropylene oxide side chains.The dispersion as claimed in any one of claims 4 to 11, wherein the polymeric dispersant corresponds to the following formula:in which:n is an integer ranging from 50 to 4000;i is an integer ranging from 1 to n;the groups R'i, which may be identical or different, represent, independently of one another, H or a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; andthe groups Ri, which may be identical or different, are chosen, independently of one another, from the group constituted of: -C(=O)OH, -C(=O)O-X+and -C(=O)O-(A)p-Ra, at least one of the groups Rirepresenting -C(=O)O-(A)p-Ra, where:X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal; or X+represents a quaternary ammonium;Rarepresents H or a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;A represents a linear or branched, C2-C8 alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture thereof; andp is an integer ranging from 1 to 200.The dispersion as claimed in any one of claims 4 to 12, wherein the polymeric dispersant comprises at least one repeating unit (T1) and at least one repeating unit (T2), said repeating units having the following respective formulae:in which:p is an integer ranging from 1 to 200;X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal; or X+ represents a quaternary ammonium;Rarepresents H or a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;R and R', which may be identical or different, represent, independently of one another, H or a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; andA represents a linear or branched, C2-C8 alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture thereof.The dispersion as claimed in any one of claims 4 to 13, wherein the polymeric dispersant corresponds to the following formula:in which:R'a is H or CH3;x is an integer ranging from 50 to 3000;y is an integer ranging from 5 to 1000; andp is an integer ranging from 20 to 200,the units -CH2-C(R)(C(=O)ONa)- and -CH2-C(R')(C(=O)O-(CH2-CH2-O)pR'a)- being distributed randomly or statistically.The dispersion as claimed in any one of claims 4 to 14, wherein the polymeric dispersant corresponds to the following formula:in which:x is an integer ranging from 50 to 3000;y is an integer ranging from 5 to 1000; andp is an integer ranging from 20 to 200;the units -CH2-C(R)(C(=O)ONa)- and -CH2-C(R')(C(=O)O-(CH2-CH2-O)pCH3)- being distributed randomly or statistically.The dispersion as claimed in any one of claims 4 to 15, wherein the mass-average molecular mass (Mw) of the polymeric dispersant ranges from 50 000 to 90 000 g / mol.The dispersion as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 16, wherein the polymeric dispersant has the INCI name Sodium Methacrylate / PEG / PPG-45 / 15 Hydroxypropyl Methacrylate Copolymer.The dispersion as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising a total content of polymeric dispersant(s) of greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably of greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, even more preferentially in a content ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in a content ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.The dispersion as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the particulate substance is chosen from fillers, particulate colorants, and mixtures thereof.The dispersion as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one particulate colorant, preferably chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents, reflective particles, and mixtures thereof.The dispersion as claimed in claim 20, comprising a content of particulate colorant(s) preferably ranging from 40% to 90% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The dispersion as claimed in claim 20 or 21, wherein the particulate colorant(s) is (are) chosen from:- titanium dioxides (CI: 77891), which are preferably hydrophobically coated, and more particularly with sodium lauroyl glutamate and lysine;- yellow iron oxides (CI: 77492), which are preferably hydrophobically coated, and more particularly with sodium lauroyl glutamate and lysine;- red iron oxides (CI: 77491), which are preferably hydrophobically coated, and more particularly with sodium lauroyl glutamate and lysine;- black iron oxides (CI: 77499), which are preferably hydrophobically coated, and more particularly with sodium lauroyl glutamate and lysine;- mixtures thereof.A process for producing an anhydrous dispersion (A) of particulate substance(s) as defined in any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one step of grinding said polymeric dispersant, said polyol(s) and said particulate substance(s).A dispersion (A) of particulate substance(s) which is obtainable by the process as claimed in claim 23.A composition (B) for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium:a) at least one aqueous phase; andb) an anhydrous dispersion (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 24.A cosmetic assembly comprising:i) a container delimiting one or more compartments, said container being closed by a closing element; andii) a composition (B) as claimed in claim 25, arranged inside said compartment(s).A process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of the composition (B) as claimed in claim 25.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Gel-type cosmetic composition
EP2958540B1
Gel-type cosmetic composition
EP2958541B1
Gel-type cosmetic composition with improved staying power
EP3185958B1
Composition, useful e.g. in non-therapeutic process for making up and / or caring for skin, comprises water, colorant, and polymer dispersant comprising main chain and side chain that is grafted on main chain and comprises alkyleneoxy
FR2996131B1
Composition, useful e.g. in non-therapeutic process for making up and / or caring for skin, comprises non-coloring filler, and polymer dispersant comprising main chain and side chain that is grafted on main chain and comprises alkyleneoxy
FR2996132B1