Gemstone setting for jewellery
The setting structure addresses the issue of visible metal securing gemstones by using retaining elements that engage with gemstone grooves, ensuring secure and continuous gemstone surfaces in jewelry.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/GB2025/050188
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-01-31
- Filing Date
- 2025-01-31
- Publication Date
- 2025-08-07
AI Technical Summary
Existing gemstone settings in jewelry often require visible metal structures for securing gemstones, which can bend and lead to loss, and fail to provide an uninterrupted gemstone surface appearance.
A setting structure with retaining elements that engage with grooves on opposing sides of gemstones, allowing them to be retained without visible prongs or additional securing members, creating a continuous gemstone surface on multiple faces.
The structure securely holds gemstones without visible metal, preventing bending and providing an uninterrupted gemstone surface appearance, enhancing optical properties and security.
Smart Images

Figure GB2025050188_07082025_PF_FP_ABST
Abstract
Description
[0001] Gemstone Setting for Jewellery
[0002] FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0003] The present invention relates to setting structures for retaining gemstones. In particular, the present invention relates to setting structures which are arranged to retain a plurality of gemstones proximate one another so as to at least partially conceal the setting structure in use and to provide the appearance of an uninterrupted gemstone surface. The present invention also relates to articles of jewellery comprising the setting structures, and methods of assembling articles of jewellery.
[0004] BACKGROUND TO THE INVENTION
[0005] A variety of different mounting arrangements or structures, which may be known as settings, are used to retain gemstones in items of jewellery. Settings typically comprise metal structures (often formed from precious metals such as gold or silver) in which one or more gemstones may be mounted. A setting may comprise one or more parts which can be flexed and / or deformed to accept and retain a gemstone. In one example, known as a bezel setting or rubover setting, a band of metal is arranged to extend around the gemstone and an edge of the band is deformed to extend over a periphery of a top surface of the gemstone to secure the gemstone. In another example, known as a claw setting or prong setting, a plurality of elongate claws or prongs are arranged around a space for receiving the gemstone, and once the gemstone is located in the space, the prongs are deformed or spring back to engage with edges of the gemstone, to secure the gemstone in the setting.
[0006] To mount or set a plurality of gemstones together, a setting may comprise a plurality of sets of prongs or claws, or an elongate groove or channel in which the gemstones are retained. In one arrangement, which may be known as a bar setting, a plurality of generally rectangular members (bars) are spaced apart, and gemstones are received in spaces between adjacent bars. Typically, each bar is provided with grooves on opposite faces of the bar and edges of the gemstone engage with the grooves of adjacent bars to secure the gemstone between the bars. It is sometimes desirable to reduce the extent to which the metal setting structure is visible in a finished article of jewellery, for example so that at least part of a visible surface of the article of jewellery is provided only by contiguous surfaces of the mounted gemstones, and the setting structure cannot be seen in that part. Such arrangements may be referred to as ‘invisible’ settings, in which a plurality of gemstones may be arranged contiguously to provide the appearance of an uninterrupted gemstone surface.
[0007] In some of these arrangements, the setting structure may comprise a plurality of elongate parallel walls or rails spaced apart from one another, an upper edge of each rail being provided with opposed elongate ribs so that the rails have a generally T shaped cross- sectional profile. In this case, each gemstone may be provided with parallel grooves cut into opposite sides of the gemstone, such that gemstones may be slid into the spaces between adjacent rails in a direction parallel to the length of the rails, and a rib of each respective rail engages with the groove on a side of each gemstone to retain the gemstones between the rails. With this arrangement, a top part of the T-shaped profile of the rails may be concealed by being located in the grooves of the gemstones, and the gemstones may be shaped to extend over the rails to further conceal the rails, in order to provide an ‘invisible’ setting in a single plane.
[0008] A disadvantage of these arrangements is that the gemstones must be secured in place by a separate metal structure which is secured at ends of the rails once the gemstones are in place, to close open ends of the spaces between the rails and to prevent the gemstones from sliding out. Also, the rails may be prone to bend in use, resulting in gemstones being lost from articles of jewellery.
[0009] It is against this background that the present invention is devised. It is an object of the present invention to overcome at least one problem with the prior art, whether referred to herein or otherwise. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0010] According to a first aspect of the invention, there is provided a setting structure for retaining a plurality of gemstones in an article of jewellery, each gemstone being provided with grooves on opposing sides of the gemstone, the setting structure comprising: a base; and a plurality of retaining elements spaced apart along a dimension of the base to define a plurality of gemstone receiving regions therebetween, each of the plurality of retaining elements comprising at least one projection arranged to engage with the groove on one side of a respective gemstone such that a projection is engaged with a respective groove on each opposing side of the respective gemstone when the gemstone is received in a respective gemstone receiving region between adjacent retaining elements, thereby to retain the respective gemstone in the respective gemstone receiving region, the plurality of retaining elements comprising: on a first side of the setting structure, a plurality of first retaining elements spaced apart to define a plurality of first gemstone receiving regions therebetween, such that gemstones retained in the first gemstone receiving regions provide a first face of the article of jewellery; on a second side of the setting structure opposite to the first side, a plurality of second retaining elements spaced apart to define a plurality of second gemstone receiving regions therebetween, such that gemstones retained in the second gemstone receiving regions provide a second face of the article of jewellery which faces away from the first face; and on a third side of the setting structure spaced apart from the base and extending between the first and second sides, a plurality of third retaining elements spaced apart to define a plurality of third gemstone receiving regions therebetween, such that gemstones retained in the third gemstone receiving regions provide a third face of the article of jewellery, the third face being arranged to extend between the first and second faces; and wherein each of the first and second retaining elements extends between the base and the third side of the setting structure.
[0011] Preferably the first side and / or the second side extends parallel to the dimension of the base. Preferably the first face and / or the second face extends parallel to the dimension of the base. Preferably the first and second sides are lateral sides. Preferably the third side is a top side. Preferably the first side is parallel to the second side. Preferably the first face is parallel to the second face. Preferably the second face is opposite to the first face. Preferably the second face faces in an opposing direction to the first face.
[0012] Preferably each first gemstone receiving regions open on the first side. Preferably each second gemstone receiving regions open on the second side. Preferably a fourth side of the setting structure is provided by a surface the base. Preferably the fourth side is opposite to the third side.
[0013] Preferably each first retaining element is aligned with a respective second retaining element along the dimension of the base such that each first gemstone receiving region is aligned with a respective second gemstone receiving region. With this arrangement, a gemstone mounted in the first gemstone receiving region is aligned with a gemstone mounted in the opposing respective second gemstone receiving region. In other embodiments, each first retaining element may be offset or staggered from a respective second retaining element along the dimension of the base.
[0014] Preferably each first gemstone receiving region is continuous with a respective second gemstone receiving region to define an uninterrupted gemstone receiving region extending between the first and second sides. For example, preferably there are no other elements of the setting structure or other members in the gemstone receiving regions between the first and second and / or third sides. In this way the setting structure may be simpler and need not require supporting members extending across the gemstone receiving regions between neighbouring retaining elements.
[0015] Preferably each first gemstone receiving region is contiguous and / or continuous with a respective second gemstone receiving region. Preferably each first gemstone receiving region is contiguous and / or continuous with a respective third gemstone receiving region. In this way, light may pass through the gemstones in the contiguous and / or continuous gemstone receiving regions, to improve optical properties (e.g. reflection, scattering, brilliance etc. of the gemstones).
[0016] Preferably each first gemstone receiving region extends between the first side and a respective second gemstone receiving region. Preferably each second gemstone receiving region extends between the second side and a respective first gemstone receiving region. Preferably each third gemstone receiving region is uninterrupted between the base and the third side and / or between the first and second sides.
[0017] Each gemstone receiving region may have a substantially square cross section.
[0018] Preferably each third retaining element extends between the first and second sides of the setting structure. Preferably each third retaining element extends between a respective first retaining element and a respective second retaining element. Preferably each third retaining element extends between an end of the respective first retaining element and an end of the respective second retaining element. Preferably each third retaining element extends between ends of the respective first and second retaining elements which are distal which are distal to the base. Preferably each of the first and second retaining elements extend from opposite ends of a respective third retaining element.
[0019] Preferably each of the first and second retaining elements is elongate to extend away from the base towards the third side. Preferably each of the first and second retaining elements extends substantially perpendicular to the dimension of the base. Preferably each of the first and second retaining elements is elongate to extend away from a top surface of the base. Preferably each of the first and second retaining elements extends substantially perpendicular to the top surface of the base. Preferably each of the first and second retaining elements extends substantially normal to the top surface of the base. Preferably each first retaining element extends between a top side of the base and a third retaining element. Preferably each second retaining element extends between the top side of the base and a third retaining element. Preferably each third retaining element is elongate to extend substantially perpendicular to the first and second retaining elements. With this arrangement the first and second faces are arranged to extend parallel to one another, and the third face is arranged to extend perpendicular to the first and second faces.
[0020] Preferably the setting structure comprises a plurality of setting members spaced apart along the base, preferably wherein each setting member comprises a respective one of the first retaining elements, a respective one of the second retaining elements and a respective one of the third retaining elements. In this way, the setting members provide the retaining elements. Each setting member may a unitary body so that the first, second and third retaining elements are integrally formed.
[0021] Preferably the setting members are connected solely by the base. In this way preferably an uninterrupted space is defined between neighbouring setting members which may simplify the setting structure and / or improve optical properties of an article of jewellery comprising the setting structure. Preferably each setting member has a generally rectangular cross-section, and the respective first, second and third retaining elements are provided on sides of the rectangular cross-section. Preferably each setting member has a quadrilateral cross-section.
[0022] Preferably each retaining element comprises a pair of projections which extend in opposite directions from the retaining element so as to extend into gemstone receiving regions on either side of the retaining element. Preferably each of the first, second and / or third retaining elements comprises such a pair of projections. Preferably each projection comprises an elongate retaining edge formation arranged to align with and engage with a respective groove of a respective gemstone.
[0023] Preferably each retaining edge formation is elongate to extend along its respective retaining element. Preferably each retaining edge formation extends substantially perpendicular to the dimension of the base. Preferably the retaining edge formation of each third retaining element is contiguous and / or continuous with the retaining edge formation of a respective first retaining element. Preferably the retaining edge formation of each third retaining element is contiguous and / or continuous with the retaining edge formation of a respective second retaining element.
[0024] Preferably each third retaining element is arranged to retain a gemstone in a respective first gemstone receiving region and / or a respective second gemstone receiving region. Preferably, gemstones received in the first and / or second gemstone receiving regions are retained in the first and / or second gemstone receiving regions at least in part by abutment of the gemstones with a surface of the base.
[0025] Preferably, when gemstones are received in the gemstone receiving regions, gemstones received in the first and / or second gemstone receiving regions are retained in the first and / or second gemstone receiving regions at least in part by abutment with gemstones received in the third gemstone receiving regions. In this case, preferably each gemstone comprises a pavilion which projects into its respective gemstone receiving region, and parts of the pavilions of the gemstones abut to retain the gemstones.
[0026] Preferably, when gemstones are received in the gemstone receiving regions, gemstones received in the third second gemstone receiving regions are retained in the first gemstone receiving regions by abutment with gemstones received in the first and / or second gemstone receiving regions. In this way, the gemstones may be mutually interlocking.
[0027] Preferably each retaining edge formation is arranged orthogonally to the dimension of the base. Preferably each retaining edge formation extends along a respective retaining element. Preferably each retaining edge formation extends parallel to the length of its respective retaining element. Preferably each retaining element is substantially linear. Preferably each retaining edge formation is substantially linear.
[0028] Preferably the setting structure is a unitary body. For example, the setting structure may be a single piece of metal.
[0029] Preferably substantially all of the setting structure above the base and / or except for the base is arranged to be concealed by the gemstones when the gemstones are received in the gemstone receiving regions. Preferably the setting structure does not comprise any prongs or other members or features which extend beyond or over outer surfaces of the gemstones when the gemstones are mounted in the gemstone receiving regions. Preferably the gemstones are retained solely by the retaining elements, or solely by the retaining elements and the base. With these arrangements preferably the first, second and / or third faces of an article of jewellery are uninterrupted by any setting structure when the gemstones are mounted in the setting structure.
[0030] Preferably the first and second retaining members are aligned with first and second side edges of the base. This may help to conceal the base when the gemstones are mounted in the setting structure. Preferably when the gemstones are received in the gemstone receiving regions, the base and / or the setting structure is concealed by the gemstones at least when viewed from the third side. In some embodiments, preferably the base is substantially planar and preferably the dimension of the base is a length of the base. Preferably the base is generally or substantially rectangular. Preferably the retaining edge formations of the first and second retaining elements extend substantially parallel to one another.
[0031] In some embodiments, preferably the base is curved to form a ring and preferably the dimension of the base is a circumference of the base. The setting structure may be curved around an axis perpendicular to the dimension of the base. Preferably the base is curved to form at least part of a ring. With these arrangements, an article of jewellery comprising the setting structure may comprise a ring, for example to be worn on a finger. Preferably the base is curved to form a ring and the dimension of the base is a circumference of the setting structure and / or a circumference of the base. The dimension of the base may be an outer circumference of the base. The third side may be a radially outer side of the setting structure. Preferably the dimension of the base is an outer circumference of the base.
[0032] Preferably the retaining elements are circumferentially spaced apart around the ring to define the gemstone receiving regions. Preferably the setting members extend radially outwards from the base. Preferably the first and second retaining elements extend radially. E.g. radially outwards from the base. Preferably the retaining edge formations of the first and second retaining elements extend substantially radially.
[0033] Preferably the first and second sides of the base are substantially annular. The base may comprise a cylindrical wall. The top surface of the base may be a radially outwardly facing, outer circumferential surface of the base.
[0034] Preferably the setting members extend radially outward. Preferably each first retaining element is angled with respect to an adjacent first retaining element. Preferably each second retaining element is angled with respect to an adjacent second retaining element. Preferably each first retaining edge formation is angled with respect to an adjacent first retaining edge formation. Preferably each second retaining edge formation is angled with respect to an adjacent second retaining edge formation. Preferably the first and / or second gemstone receiving regions have a substantially trapezium shaped cross section. In some embodiments, the third retaining elements may be longer than the first and second retaining elements. In this way, each third gemstone receiving region may be arranged to accommodate a plurality of gemstones of substantially similar dimensions to the gemstone received in each first and / or second gemstone receiving region.
[0035] According to a second aspect of the invention there is provided an article of jewellery comprising a setting structure according to the first aspect of the invention and the plurality of gemstones retained in the setting structure. In this case preferably each gemstone is retained in a respective gemstone receiving region.
[0036] Preferably each of the plurality of gemstones has a quadrilateral cross section. Preferably each gemstone comprises a top face or table and a substantially pyramidal pavilion opposite the top face. Preferably, gemstones received in the first and / or second gemstone receiving regions are retained in the first and / or second gemstone receiving regions at least in part by abutment with gemstones received in the third gemstone receiving regions.
[0037] Preferably, the gemstones retained in the first gemstone receiving regions are arranged annularly and preferably the gemstones retained in the second gemstone receiving regions are arranged annularly such that the first and second faces of the article of jewellery are substantially annular. In this case, preferably the gemstones received in the first and second gemstone receiving regions have a substantially trapezium shaped cross section. Preferably the gemstones received in the third gemstone receiving regions are arranged circumferentially. Preferably the third face is a circumferentially outer face. Preferably the third face faces radially outwards. Preferably the third side is perpendicular to the first side and / or the second side. Preferably the third face is perpendicular to the first face and / or the second face.
[0038] Preferably, when the gemstones are received in the gemstone receiving regions, the setting structure is concealed from view when viewed from at least one of the first, second and / or third sides of the setting structure. Preferably edge portions of the table of each gemstone extend at least partially over the retaining edge formations to conceal the retaining edge formations. Preferably each gemstone abuts at least one neighbouring gemstone thereby to provide a contiguous and / or continuous gemstone surface. Preferably, all of the gemstones abut neighbouring gemstones thereby to conceal the retaining elements. For example each gemstone in the first and / or second gemstone receiving regions may abut three neighbouring gemstones. Each gemstone in the third gemstone receiving regions may abut four neighbouring gemstones.
[0039] Preferably each gemstone in each first gemstone receiving region abuts a gemstone in a respective third gemstone receiving region and preferably each gemstone in each second gemstone receiving region abuts a gemstone in a respective third gemstone receiving region such that the first and second faces are contiguous with the third face.
[0040] Preferably each first and second gemstone receiving region is arranged to receive a single gemstone. In some embodiments, each third gemstone receiving region may be arranged to receive a plurality of gemstones.
[0041] Preferably each gemstone received in a first and / or second gemstone receiving region is retained in the first and / or second gemstone receiving region by part of a respective third retaining element. Preferably each gemstone received in a third gemstone receiving region is retained in the third gemstone receiving region by part of a respective first retaining element and / or part of a second retaining element.
[0042] In some embodiments, adjacent gemstone receiving regions may be angularly offset from one another. In some embodiments at least some of the retaining elements are angularly offset from other adjacent retaining elements about an axis parallel to the dimension of the base, such that at least some of the gemstone receiving regions are angularly offset from one another. (E.g., about an axis parallel to the dimension of the base). The base may be twisted about an axis parallel to the dimension of the base, such that at least some of the first retaining elements are angled (e.g., rotated or angularly offset) with respect to adjacent first retaining elements about an axis parallel to the dimension of the base. At least some of the second retaining elements may be angled (rotated) with respect to adjacent second retaining elements about an axis parallel to the dimension of the base. Adjacent setting members may be angularly offset from one another. According to a third aspect of the invention there is provided a method of assembling an article of jewellery comprising a setting structure arranged to retain a plurality of gemstones, each gemstone being provided with grooves on opposing sides of the gemstone, and the setting structure comprising: a base; and a plurality of retaining elements spaced apart along a dimension of the base to define a plurality of gemstone receiving regions therebetween, each of the plurality of retaining elements comprising at least one projection arranged to engage with the groove on one side of a respective gemstone such that a projection is engaged with a respective groove on each opposing side of the respective gemstone when the gemstone is received in a respective gemstone receiving region between adjacent retaining elements, thereby to retain the respective gemstone in the respective gemstone receiving region, the plurality of retaining elements comprising: on a first side of the setting structure, a plurality of first retaining elements spaced apart to define a plurality of first gemstone receiving regions therebetween, such that gemstones retained in the first gemstone receiving regions provide a first face of the article of jewellery; on a second side of the setting structure opposite to the first side, a plurality of second retaining elements spaced apart to define a plurality of second gemstone receiving regions therebetween, such that gemstones retained in the second gemstone receiving regions provide a second face of the article of jewellery opposite to the second face; and on a third side of the setting structure spaced apart from the base and extending between the first and second sides, a plurality of third retaining elements spaced apart to define a plurality of third gemstone receiving regions therebetween, such that gemstones retained in the third gemstone receiving regions provide a third face of the article of jewellery, the third face being arranged to extend between the first and second faces; wherein the method comprises: inserting a gemstone into each first gemstone receiving region in a first direction from the first side towards the second side; inserting a gemstone into each second gemstone receiving region in a second direction from the second side towards the first side.
[0043] Preferably the setting structure is according to the first aspect of the invention. Preferably the method comprises inserting a gemstone into each third gemstone receiving region in a third direction at an angle to the first and second directions. Preferably each of the first and second retaining elements extends between the base and the third side of the setting structure. Preferably the first direction is opposite to the second direction. Preferably the first direction is parallel to the second direction. Preferably the third direction is perpendicular to the first direction and / or the second direction. Preferably the grooves in the gemstones are parallel to a top face / table of the gemstone. Preferably the grooves are parallel to one another.
[0044] According to another aspect of the invention, there is provided a setting structure for retaining a plurality of gemstones in an article of jewellery, each gemstone being provided with grooves on opposing sides of the gemstone, the setting structure comprising: a base; and a plurality of retaining elements spaced apart along a dimension of the base to define a plurality of gemstone receiving regions therebetween, each of the plurality of retaining elements comprising at least one projection arranged to engage with the groove on one side of a respective gemstone such that a projection is engaged with a respective groove on each opposing side of the respective gemstone when the gemstone is received in a respective gemstone receiving region between adjacent retaining elements, thereby to retain the respective gemstone in the respective gemstone receiving region, the plurality of retaining elements comprising: on a first side of the setting structure, a plurality of first retaining elements spaced apart to define a plurality of first gemstone receiving regions therebetween, such that gemstones retained in the first gemstone receiving regions provide a first face of the article of jewellery; on a second side of the setting structure opposite to the first side, a plurality of second retaining elements spaced apart to define a plurality of second gemstone receiving regions therebetween, such that gemstones retained in the second gemstone receiving regions provide a second face of the article of jewellery which faces away from the first face; and wherein each of the first and second retaining elements extends between the base and a third side of the setting structure spaced apart from the base.
[0045] Preferably the first and second retaining elements converge towards the third side of the setting structure. Preferably each first retaining element converges towards a respective second retaining element towards the third side of the setting structure. In such embodiments, the setting structure may have a generally triangular cross section. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0046] The present invention will now be described, by way of example only, and with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which like numerals indicate like features and in which:
[0047] Figure 1 is a perspective exploded view of part of a setting structure according to a first preferred embodiment of the invention, together with gemstones which may be mounted in the setting structure;
[0048] Figure 2 is a perspective view of the setting structure of Figure 1 ;
[0049] Figure 3 is a cross-sectional side view of the setting structure of Figure 1 with gemstones retained in the setting structure;
[0050] Figure 4 is a cross-sectional top view of the setting structure of Figure 1 with gemstones retained in the setting structure;
[0051] Figure 5 is a cross-sectional end view of the setting structure of Figure 1 , with gemstones retained in the setting structure;
[0052] Figure 6 is a perspective view of part of a setting according to a second preferred embodiment of the invention, together with gemstones which may be mounted in the setting structure;
[0053] Figure 7 is a perspective view of the setting structure according to the second preferred embodiment of the invention of which part is shown in Figure 6;
[0054] Figure 8 is a cross-sectional side view of the setting structure of Figure 6, with gemstones retained in the setting structure;
[0055] Figure 9 is a cross-sectional side view of the setting structure of Figure 7, with gemstones retained in the setting structure; Figure 10 is a perspective view of the setting structure of Figure 7, with gemstones retained in the setting structure;
[0056] Figure 11 is a perspective view of a variant of the setting structure of Figures 6 to 10;
[0057] Figure 12 is a perspective exploded view of the setting structure of Figure 11 , with gemstones which may be retained in the setting structure;
[0058] Figure 13 is a perspective view of a setting structure according to a third preferred embodiment of the invention; and
[0059] Figure 14 is a perspective view of the setting structure of Figure 13, showing gemstones mounted in the setting structure.
[0060] DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0061] The present invention relates to setting structures for retaining gemstones in an item of jewellery, and articles of jewellery comprising a setting structure and a plurality of gemstones retained by and mounted in the setting structure. The present invention also relates to a setting structure which is at least partially concealed when gemstones are retained by the setting structure, to provide the appearance of a continuous surface formed solely from surfaces of the gemstones. In particular, setting structures according to the invention allow gemstones to be mounted to provide two opposite faces of an article of jewellery and to provide a third face arranged between the first and second faces. In this way, the present invention can be considered to provide a three-sided or three-faced setting structure, in which gemstones are arranged on three sides of the setting structure. In preferred embodiments, the two opposite faces are parallel with one another and the third face is perpendicular to the first and second faces and extends between the first and second faces. Preferably the first, second and third faces are substantially contiguous with one another so as to provide the appearance of an uninterrupted gemstones surface on three perpendicular faces of an article of jewellery.
[0062] In this specification, the term “gemstone” and related terms refers to substantially any solid material shaped to provide a decorative article which can be set in an article of jewellery. Although preferably, the term “gemstone” refers to precious or semi-precious stones (for example diamonds (natural or synthetic), emeralds, sapphires, rubies, and the like) this term is also intended to encompass other materials which may be used as gemstones, such as cubic zirconia, moissanite, glass, resin, plastics and other suitable materials.
[0063] A setting structure 100 according to a first embodiment of the invention is shown in Figures 1 to 5, together with a plurality of gemstones 10 which may be set or retained in the setting structure 100 to form an article of jewellery.
[0064] In relation to the embodiment shown in Figures 1 to 5, for convenience the terms “upper”, “upward”, and related terms refer to a position or direction towards the top of Figures 1 to 5, though it will be appreciated that the setting structure may be used in substantially any orientation.
[0065] Each gemstone comprises an upper portion or crown, and a lower portion or pavilion which meets the upper portion at a girdle. The girdle defines a maximum width of the gemstone. When the gemstone is mounted in the setting structure, a top face of the crown is arranged to face outwardly from an article of jewellery in which the gemstone is set, and the pavilion is arranged to extend into a corresponding gemstone receiving region of the setting structure. Each gemstone is provided with a pair of side grooves on opposite sides of the gemstone proximate the girdle. The grooves extend parallel to one another and parallel to the top face. The grooves are arranged to receive parts of the setting structure for retaining the gemstone in the setting structure. In preferred embodiments the gemstones are diamonds.
[0066] In this embodiment, the gemstones 10 comprise table cut gemstones 10, each gemstone 10 having a truncated pyramidal crown 12 comprising a square top face or table 18, and a substantially pyramidal pavilion portion 14 which tapers away from the crown 12. The girdle 16 is substantially square. It will be appreciated however, that the gemstones may be of substantially any cut or shape. The crown 12 is arranged to face outwardly from an article of jewellery in which the gemstone 10 is set, to provide part of a face of the article of jewellery. Each gemstone 10 is provided with a pair of side grooves 20 on opposite sides of the gemstone proximate the girdle 16. The grooves 20 extend parallel to one another and parallel to the top face 18. The grooves 20 are disposed below the girdle 16 such that the grooves 20 are recessed into the sides of the gemstone 10 below the crown 12. The grooves 20 are arranged to receive parts of the setting structure 100 for retaining the gemstone 10 in the setting structure 100, as described further below.
[0067] With reference to Figures 1 and 2, the setting structure 100 comprises a base 102, and a plurality of setting members 104 spaced apart along the base to provide a plurality of gemstone receiving regions 106 therebetween, as described further below. In this embodiment, the base 102 comprises a rectangular plate, and the setting members are spaced apart along a length of the base 102. First and second long side edges 108, 110 of the rectangular base 102 define first and second sides 112, 114, respectively, of the setting structure 100.
[0068] The setting members 104 are spaced apart along a top side 116 of the base, and extend upwardly from the base 102 towards a third, top side 118 of the setting structure 100. In this embodiment, the setting members 104 extend parallel to one another and are evenly spaced along the base 102. Each setting member 104 comprises a first retaining member 120 which extends upwardly from the base 102 proximate the first side 112 of the setting structure and a second retaining member 122 which extends upwardly from the base 102 proximate the opposing second side 114 of the setting structure 100. In this way, the first and second retaining members 120, 122 are spaced apart from each other. Part of one of the setting members 104 is broken away in Figures 1 and 2 to show better the structure of the setting member 104.
[0069] Each setting member 104 further comprises a third retaining member 124 spaced apart from the base 102 and which extends between upper ends of the first and second retaining members 120, 122 distal to the base 102. A length of the third retaining member 124 extends perpendicularly to the first and second retaining members 120, 122. The third retaining member 124 extends perpendicular to the length of the base 102 and parallel with a top side surface 126 of the base 102. In this embodiment, the first, second and third retaining members 120, 122, 124 are of substantially the same length. In this way, each setting member 104 has a generally square cross-sectional profile. The retaining members 120, 122, 124 extend around three sides of a generally square central plate 128, with a lower edge of the square plate 128 extending along the top surface 126 of the base 102. The plate 128 helps to provide structural reinforcement to each setting member 104.
[0070] Each of the first, second and third retaining members 120, 122, 124 is elongate and comprises a pair of opposing retaining elements provided on opposite long sides of the respective retaining member 120, 122, 124. In this embodiment the retaining elements are in the form of elongate retaining edges or retaining edge formations. Accordingly, each first retaining member 120 comprises a pair of opposed first retaining edge formations 132, each second retaining member 122 comprises a pair of opposed second retaining edge formations 134, and each third retaining member 124 comprises a pair of opposed third retaining edge formations 136. Each retaining edge formation 132, 134, 136 is elongate to extend along its respective retaining member 120, 122, 124. Each retaining edge formation 132, 134, 136 projects away from its respective setting member 104 in a direction towards an adjacent setting member 104 (in this example, in a direction parallel to the length of the base).
[0071] In this embodiment, each first retaining edge formation 132 is contiguous with a respective third retaining edge formation 136 and the third retaining edge formation 136 is contiguous with a respective second retaining edge formation 134. In this way, in this embodiment, a continuous uninterrupted retaining edge formation extends around each setting member 104. In other embodiments however, the first, second and / or third retaining edge formations may or may not be contiguous and / or continuous, and gaps may be provided between them.
[0072] Referring additionally to Figures 3, 4 and 5, a thickness of each retaining edge formation 132, 134, 136 is tapered such that each retaining edge formation comprises a blade-like structure. Referring in particular to Figures 3 and 4, a portion of each setting member 104 has a generally T-shaped cross-section, with the central plate 128 forming the upright portion of the and the retaining edge formations 132, 134, 136 providing the arms of the T.
[0073] With these arrangements, each retaining edge formation 132, 134, 136 projects towards a corresponding retaining edge formation 132, 134, 136 provided on an adjacent setting member 104. Opposing retaining edge formations on adjacent setting members are arranged to engage with respective grooves 20 on opposite sides of a gemstone 10 inserted between the retaining edge formations, as described further below. As mentioned above, a plurality of gemstone receiving regions 106 are defined between the adjacent setting members 104. In particular, a plurality of first gemstone receiving regions 138 are defined between the first retaining edge formations 132 of adjacent setting members 104. A plurality of second gemstone receiving regions 140 are defined between the second retaining edge formations 134 of adjacent setting members 104. A plurality of third gemstone receiving regions 142 are defined between the third retaining edge formations 136 of adjacent setting members 104. Each first gemstone receiving region 138 is contiguous with a respective second and third gemstone receiving region 140, 142.
[0074] Accordingly, each first gemstone receiving region 138 is arranged to receive a gemstone 10 from the first side 112 of the setting structure 100, each second gemstone receiving region 140 is arranged to receive a gemstone 10 from the second side 114 of the setting structure 100, and each third gemstone receiving region 142 is arranged to receive a gemstone 10 from the third side 118 of the setting structure 100, as shown most clearly in Figure 1 . In this first embodiment, all of the gemstones 10 are substantially identical. It will be appreciated however, that in some embodiments, the first, second and third gemstone receiving regions may have differing shapes and dimensions and accordingly some of the gemstones may have different shapes and dimensions.
[0075] In use, to assemble an article of jewellery by setting the gemstones 10 in the setting structure 100, each gemstone 10 is preferably inserted into a respective gemstone receiving region 138, 140, 142 in a direction perpendicular to a length of the retaining edge formations 132, 134, 136 defining that gemstone receiving region 138, 140, 142. In particular, when gemstones 10 are mounted in the setting structure 100, a gemstone 10 is inserted into each first gemstone receiving region 138 in a direction generally perpendicular to the first side 112 (e.g., perpendicular to a plane of the first side) and / or perpendicular to a length of the first retaining edge formations 132. A gemstone 10 is inserted into each second gemstone receiving region 140 in a direction perpendicular to the second side 114 (e.g., perpendicular to a plane of the second side) and / or perpendicular to the second retaining edge formations 134. Similarly, a gemstone 10 is inserted into each third gemstone receiving region 142 in a direction perpendicular to the third side 118 (e.g., perpendicular to a plane of the third side) and / or perpendicular to the third retaining edge formations 136. In this way, the gemstones 10 may be arranged to snap or click into a respective gemstone receiving region 138, 140, 1 2 by flexing the retaining edge formations 132, 134, 136, which subsequently engage with the grooves 20 of a gemstone 10. In Figure 4, an outline of each gemstone 10 received in a respective third gemstone receiving region is shown by dashed lines.
[0076] Advantageously, and as can be seen most clearly in Figure 5, with the arrangements described above, each gemstone 10 is retained in its respective gemstone receiving region (or at least its movement is limited) at least partially by abutment with an adjacent gemstone 10 retained in a contiguous gemstone receiving region. For example, a gemstone 10 in a first gemstone receiving region 138 is retained by abutment of the gemstone 10 in the respective third gemstone receiving region 142. Similarly, a gemstone 10 in the respective second gemstone receiving region 140 is retained by abutment of the gemstone 10 in the respective third gemstone receiving region 142. The gemstone 10 in the respective third gemstone receiving region 142 is retained by abutment of the gemstones 10 in both the respective first and second gemstone receiving regions 138, 140. In this way, the gemstones 10 are mutually retained or mutually interlocking.
[0077] The gemstones 10 may also be retained in their respective gemstone receiving regions 138, 140, 142 by abutment with one or both of the retaining elements of a contiguous gemstone receiving region. For example, a gemstone 10 in a first gemstone receiving region 138 may be retained by abutment of the third retaining edge formations 136. Similarly, a gemstone 10 in the respective second gemstone receiving region 140 may be retained by abutment of the gemstone 10 with the third retaining edge formations 136. The gemstone 10 in the respective third gemstone receiving region 142 may be retained by abutment of the first and second retaining edge formations 132, 134.
[0078] With the arrangements described above, when gemstones 10 are retained in the setting structure 100, the surfaces of the crowns 12 of the gemstones 10 provide faces of an article of jewellery comprising the setting structure 100. In particular, the crowns 12 of the gemstones 10 in the first gemstone receiving regions 138 provide a first face of the article of jewellery. The crowns 12 of the gemstones 10 in the second gemstone receiving regions 140 provide a second face of the article of jewellery, opposite to the first face. The crowns 12 of the gemstones 10 in the third gemstone receiving regions 142 provide a third face of the article of jewellery extending between the first and second faces. In this embodiment, the first, second and third faces are arranged on, and correspond to, the first, second and third sides 112, 114, 118, respectively, of the setting structure 100.
[0079] Edges of each gemstone 10 abut or are disposed proximate to edges of adjacent gemstones 10, so as to conceal the retaining edge formations 132, 134, 136. Accordingly, the appearance of a generally uninterrupted gemstone surface is provided over the first, second and third faces.
[0080] A setting structure 200 according to a second preferred embodiment of the invention is shown in Figures 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10. The setting structure 200 of the second embodiment is substantially similar to the setting structure 100 of the first embodiment, and only differences will be described in detail. Features of the setting structure 200 of Figures 6 to 10 that correspond to features of the setting structure 100 of Figures 1 to 5 are provided with corresponding reference numerals incremented by 100. Again, the setting structure 200 comprises a base 202 and a plurality of setting members 204 spaced apart along a dimension of the base 202 to define a plurality of gemstone receiving regions 238, 240, 242 therebetween, generally as described above.
[0081] The setting structure 200 of the second embodiment differs from the setting structure 100 of the first embodiment primarily in that the base 202 comprises a plate which is curved to form a ring. Accordingly, the dimension of the base 202 along which the setting members 204 are spaced apart is a circumference of the base 202. Annular first and second long side edges of the base define first and second sides 212, 214, respectively, of the setting structure 200. This arrangement can be seen most clearly in Figure 7. In this way, an article of jewellery comprising the setting structure 200 may be worn as a ring, on a finger.
[0082] The setting members 204 are spaced apart along a top side of the base 202, which in this embodiment is an outer circumferential side (radially outer side) 216 of the base 202. The setting members 204 extend radially outward from the base 202 towards a third, outer circumferential side (radially outer side) 218 of the setting structure 200. With this arrangement, each setting member 204 extends at an angle to adjacent setting members 204. The setting members 204 are substantially similar to the setting members 104 described above in relation to the first embodiment.
[0083] With these arrangements, each first retaining edge formation 232 extends at an angle to an adjacent first retaining edge formation 232 on an adjacent setting member 204, such that each first gemstone receiving region 238 has a substantially trapezium shaped cross section. Similarly, each second retaining edge formation 234 extends at an angle to an adjacent second retaining edge formation 234, such that each second gemstone receiving region has a substantially trapezium shaped cross section. Accordingly, in this embodiment, each of the gemstones 10a arranged to be received and retained in the first and second gemstone receiving regions 238, 240 has a substantially trapezium shaped cross section, but is otherwise substantially similar to the gemstones 10. The grooves 20a on opposing sides of the gemstone therefore extend at an angle to one another. In other ring-shaped embodiments however, the first and second gemstone receiving regions, and / or the gemstones arranged to be retained therein, may nonetheless have a substantially square or rectangular crosssection. For instance, a width of the retaining edge formations may increase away from the base, such that a distance between adjacent retaining edge formations remains constant.
[0084] Referring in particular to Figures 9 and 10, in this second embodiment, when gemstones 10, 10a are retained in the setting structure 200, crowns 12, 12a of the gemstones retained in the first and second gemstone receiving regions 238, 240 provide opposite first and second faces 215, 225, respectively, of the setting structure or of an article of jewellery comprising the setting structure. The first and second faces correspond to the first and second sides 212, 214 of the setting structure 200. As can be seen in Figure 10, the first face is substantially annular. The opposite second face 225 is also substantially annular. The first and second faces are opposite and parallel to one another.
[0085] In this second embodiment, a ratio of the height of each setting member 204 (defined by the length of the first and second retaining edge formations) relative to its width (defined by the length of the third retaining edge formations) is less than in the first embodiment, such that the setting members 204 of the second embodiment have a generally rectangular cross section.
[0086] A variant 200a of the setting structure 200 of the second embodiment is shown in Figures 11 and 12. In this variant, each third retaining member 224a is approximately twice as long as the length of the first and second retaining members 220a, 222a, such that two gemstones 10 (or one longer gemstone) (not shown) may be received and retained in each third gemstone receiving region 242a. It will be appreciated, that in other variants or embodiments, the relative dimensions of the retaining members and / or gemstones may be varied to enable each of the first, second and / or third gemstone receiving regions to accommodate more than one gemstone, or gemstones of different shapes to those described herein.
[0087] A setting structure 300 according to a third preferred embodiment of the invention is shown in Figure 13 and 14. The setting structure 300 of the third embodiment is substantially similar to the setting structure 100 of the first embodiment, and only differences will be described in detail. Features of the setting structure 300 of Figures 13 and 14 that correspond to features of the setting structure 100 of Figures 1 to 5 are provided with corresponding reference numerals incremented by 200. In this embodiment, the base 302 is twisted along an axis parallel to the dimension of the base (i.e., the dimension along which the setting members 304 are spaced). Each first retaining member 320 is angled with respect to an adjacent first retaining member 320. Each second retaining member 322 is angled with respect to an adjacent second retaining member 322. Each third retaining member 324 is angled with respect to an adjacent third retaining member 324. In this way, each gemstone receiving region is angularly offset or rotated with respect to an adjacent gemstone receiving region, about an axis parallel to the dimension of the base, so that the setting structure 300 and an article of jewellery comprising the setting structure 300 have a helical or twisted appearance. It will be appreciated that this twisted setting structure 300 could also be curved to form a ring in the manner of the setting structure 200 described above.
[0088] In some such embodiments, rather than each retaining member being angled with respect to an adjacent retaining member, sets of first retaining members extend parallel to one another but are angled with respect to an adjacent set of first retaining member about an axis parallel to the dimension of the base and sets of second retaining member are angled (rotated) with respect to an adjacent set of second retaining member about an axis parallel to the dimension of the base. With these arrangements, the setting structure and an article of jewellery comprising the setting structure may have a helical appearance, with gemstones or sets of gemstones being angularly offset or twisted with respect to adjacent gemstones or sets of gemstones.
[0089] It will be appreciated that the relative dimensions of the gemstones and parts of the setting structure may be varied to conceal the setting structure to a greater or lesser extent. For instance, a portion of the crown of each gemstone retained in the first and second gemstone receiving regions may be arranged to extend over the first or second side edge of the base, thereby to obscure the base when viewed from the first or second side of the setting structure. In some embodiments, the long side edges of the base may be aligned with sides of the setting members and / or the first and second retaining members, to help further conceal the base when the gemstones are mounted in the setting structure. Example outlines of such alternative edges of the base are shown in dashed lines in Figures 1 , 2, 4, 6, 7, 10, 11 , 12, 13 and 14.
[0090] The setting structures described above are preferably formed from metal. Preferably the setting structure is a unitary body. For example, setting structures according to the invention may be formed by casting, for example lost-wax casting. In some examples, a model of the setting structure may be formed by 3D printing wax or other material, from which a mould is subsequently formed. The setting structure may also be produced by forming or machining a (preferably) single piece of material. Alternatively, the setting structures may be formed by joining (e.g., soldering, welding, and the like) a plurality of parts together. Any suitable metal may be used. In some preferred embodiments the setting structure is formed from white gold. The setting structure may be formed from titanium.
[0091] With the arrangements described above, the present invention provides setting structures and articles of jewellery in which a plurality of gemstones may be securely set or retained and in which much of setting structure may be obscured by the gemstones, preferably on three orthogonal faces of an article of jewellery.
Claims
CLAIMS1 . A setting structure for retaining a plurality of gemstones in an article of jewellery, each gemstone being provided with grooves on opposing sides of the gemstone, the setting structure comprising: a base; and a plurality of retaining elements spaced apart along a dimension of the base to define a plurality of gemstone receiving regions therebetween, each of the plurality of retaining elements comprising at least one projection arranged to engage with the groove on one side of a respective gemstone such that a projection is engaged with a respective groove on each opposing side of the respective gemstone when the gemstone is received in a respective gemstone receiving region between adjacent retaining elements, thereby to retain the respective gemstone in the respective gemstone receiving region, the plurality of retaining elements comprising: on a first side of the setting structure, a plurality of first retaining elements spaced apart to define a plurality of first gemstone receiving regions therebetween, such that gemstones retained in the first gemstone receiving regions provide a first face of the article of jewellery; on a second side of the setting structure opposite to the first side, a plurality of second retaining elements spaced apart to define a plurality of second gemstone receiving regions therebetween, such that gemstones retained in the second gemstone receiving regions provide a second face of the article of jewellery which faces away from the first face; and on a third side of the setting structure spaced apart from the base and extending between the first and second sides, a plurality of third retaining elements spaced apart to define a plurality of third gemstone receiving regions therebetween, such that gemstones retained in the third gemstone receiving regions provide a third face of the article of jewellery, the third face being arranged to extend between the first and second faces; and wherein each of the first and second retaining elements extends between the base and the third side of the setting structure.
2. A setting structure according to Claim 1 , in which each first retaining element is alignedwith a respective second retaining element along the dimension of the base such that each first gemstone receiving region is aligned with a respective second gemstone receiving region.
3. A setting structure according to Claim 1 or Claim 2, in which each first gemstone receiving region is continuous with a respective second gemstone receiving region to define an uninterrupted gemstone receiving region extending between the first and second sides.
4. A setting structure according to any preceding claim, in which each first gemstone receiving region is continuous with a respective second gemstone receiving region and with a respective third gemstone receiving region.
5. A setting structure according to any preceding claim, in which each third gemstone receiving region is uninterrupted between the base and the third side.
6. A setting structure according to any preceding claim, in which each third retaining element extends between the first and second sides of the setting structure.
7. A setting structure according to any preceding claim, in which each third retaining element extends between a respective first retaining element and a respective second retaining element.
8. A setting structure according to any preceding claim, in which each of the first and second retaining elements is elongate to extend away from the base towards the third side and in which each of the first and second retaining elements extends substantially perpendicular to the dimension of the base.
9. A setting structure according to any preceding claim, in which each third retaining element is elongate to extend substantially perpendicular to the first and second retaining elements.
10. A setting structure according to any preceding claim, comprising a plurality of settingmembers spaced apart along the base, wherein each setting member comprises a respective one of the first retaining elements, a respective one of the second retaining elements and a respective one of the third retaining elements.
11. A setting structure according to Claim 10, in which the setting members are connected solely by the base.
12. A setting structure according to any preceding claim, in which each retaining element comprises a pair of projections which extend in opposite directions from the retaining element so as to extend into gemstone receiving regions on either side of the retaining element.
13. A setting structure according to any preceding claim, in which each projection comprises an elongate retaining edge formation arranged to align with and engage with a respective groove of a respective gemstone.
14. A setting structure according to Claim 13, in which each retaining edge formation extends substantially perpendicular to the dimension of the base.
15. A setting structure according to Claim 13 or Claim 14, in which the retaining edge formation of each third retaining element is contiguous with the retaining edge formation of a respective first retaining element and contiguous with the retaining edge formation of a respective second retaining element.
16. A setting structure according to any preceding claim, in which, when gemstones are received in the gemstone receiving regions, gemstones received in the first and / or second gemstone receiving regions are retained in the first and / or second gemstone receiving regions at least in part by abutment with gemstones received in the third gemstone receiving regions.
17. A setting structure according to any preceding claim, in which the setting structure is a unitary body.
18. A setting structure according to any preceding claim, in which substantially all of thesetting structure above the base is arranged to be concealed by the gemstones when the gemstones are received in the gemstone receiving regions.
19. A setting structure according to any preceding claim, which does not comprise any prongs or other members which extend beyond or over outer surfaces of the gemstones when the gemstones are mounted in the gemstone receiving regions.
20. A setting structure according to any preceding claim, in which the first and second retaining members are aligned with first and second side edges of the base.
21. A setting structure according to any preceding claim, in which, when the gemstones are received in the gemstone receiving regions, the base is concealed by the gemstones at least when viewed from the third side.
22. A setting structure according to any preceding claim, in which the base is substantially planar and the dimension of the base is a length of the base.
23. A setting structure according to Claim 22, in which the retaining edge formations of the first and second retaining elements extend substantially parallel to one another.
24. A setting structure according to any preceding claim, in which at least some of the retaining elements are angularly offset from other adjacent retaining elements about an axis parallel to the dimension of the base, such that at least some of the gemstone receiving regions are angularly offset from one another.
25. A setting structure according to any of Claims 1 to 21 , which is curved to form a ring and in which the dimension of the base is a circumference of the base.
26. A setting structure according to Claim 25, in which the retaining elements are circumferentially spaced apart around the ring to define the gemstone receiving regions.
27. A setting structure according to any of Claims 25 or Claim 26, in which the first andsecond retaining elements extend radially.
28. An article of jewellery comprising a setting structure according to any preceding claim and the plurality of gemstones retained in the setting structure.
29. An article of jewellery according to Claim 28 when dependent on any of Claim 25 to Claim 27, in which the gemstones retained in the first gemstone receiving regions are arranged annularly and the gemstones retained in the second gemstone receiving regions are arranged annularly such that the first and second faces of the article of jewellery are substantially annular.
30. An article of jewellery according to Claim 28 or Claim 29, in which, when the gemstones are received in the gemstone receiving regions, the setting structure is concealed from view when viewed from at least one of the first, second and / or third sides of the setting structure.31 . An article of jewellery according to any of Claims 28 to 30, in which each gemstone in each first gemstone receiving region abuts a gemstone in a respective third gemstone receiving region and each gemstone in each second gemstone receiving region abuts a gemstone in a respective third gemstone receiving region such that the first and second faces are contiguous with the third face.
32. A method of assembling an article of jewellery comprising a setting structure arranged to retain a plurality of gemstones, each gemstone being provided with grooves on opposing sides of the gemstone, and the setting structure comprising: a base; and a plurality of retaining elements spaced apart along a dimension of the base to define a plurality of gemstone receiving regions therebetween, each of the plurality of retaining elements comprising at least one projection arranged to engage with the groove on one side of a respective gemstone such that a projection is engaged with a respective groove on each opposing side of the respective gemstone when the gemstone is received in a respective gemstone receiving region between adjacent retaining elements, thereby to retain the respective gemstone in the respective gemstone receiving region, the plurality of retaining elements comprising:on a first side of the setting structure, a plurality of first retaining elements spaced apart to define a plurality of first gemstone receiving regions therebetween, such that gemstones retained in the first gemstone receiving regions provide a first face of the article of jewellery; on a second side of the setting structure opposite to the first side, a plurality of second retaining elements spaced apart to define a plurality of second gemstone receiving regions therebetween, such that gemstones retained in the second gemstone receiving regions provide a second face of the article of jewellery opposite to the second face; and on a third side of the setting structure spaced apart from the base and extending between the first and second sides, a plurality of third retaining elements spaced apart to define a plurality of third gemstone receiving regions therebetween, such that gemstones retained in the third gemstone receiving regions provide a third face of the article of jewellery, the third face being arranged to extend between the first and second faces; wherein the method comprises: inserting a gemstone into each first gemstone receiving region in a first direction from the first side towards the second side; inserting a gemstone into each second gemstone receiving region in a second direction from the second side towards the first side; and inserting a gemstone into each third gemstone receiving region in a third direction at an angle to the first and second directions.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
according to SETTINGS
FR2018442A1
Improvements in and relating to jewellery and the setting of precious stones and the like
GB465772A
Jewelry setting
US6298689B1