Process for realizing a tubular textile item with a circular WEFT knitting machine

Abstract

A process for realizing a tubular textile item (100) comprising at least the steps of: arranging a circular knitting machine of the seamless type, programming said circular knitting machine so as to define the tubular textile item to be realized from a first end (1) up to a second open end (2), producing knitted fabric for realizing the programmed textile item. The step of programming comprises at least the steps of: defining a portion of increases constituted by a first plurality of rows (R1-R2) and determining a first frustoconical portion (3) of the tubular textile item having increasing diameter; defining a portion of decreases constituted by a second plurality of rows (R3-R4) and determining a second frustoconical portion (4) of the tubular textile item having decreasing diameter.

Description

[0001] PROCESS FOR REALIZING A TUBULAR TEXTILE ITEM WITH A CIRCULAR WEFT KNITTING MACHINE

[0002] Field of the finding

[0003] The present invention has as its object a process for realizing a tubular textile item through a circular weft knitting or hosiery knitting machine, preferably warp or weft knitting. In particular, the present invention is relative to a process suitable for being carried out by circular warp knitting machine for obtaining a tubular textile item typically corresponding to the semi-finished textile item.

[0004] It is object of the present invention a tubular textile item obtained by means of the above-mentioned process. The present invention has furthermore as its object a realizing method of a textile item realized with at least one tubular textile item obtained by means of said process.

[0005] It is also object of the present invention a textile item obtained with the above-mentioned realizing method. Specifically, the textile item object of the present invention is a garment comprising at least the tubular textile item obtained by means of the above-mentioned process.

[0006] Background of the finding

[0007] It is known the use of circular weft knitting machines for the realization of tubular items destined to the realization of textile items, such as garments. These tubular items, once produced by the textile machine, they are typically subjected to a series of operations, such as cutting, sewing, application of additional portions, etc., for obtaining a textile item that is aesthetically appreciable and, at the same time, comfortable when worn by a user.

[0008] In particular, textile items realized by means of circular knitting machines are widely used in the realization of garments for the lower portion of the body, such as pants or leggings. In fact, the substantially tubular conformation of the portions suitable for housing the legs of the wearer makes particularly advantageous the use of tubular textiles obtained directly from a circular weft knitting machine. Specifically, the use of circular knitting machines considerably simplifies the shaping and sewing operations with respect to the alternative technigues that use textile material obtained by means of straight knitting machines or large-diameter circular knitting machines that produce knitted fabric by the meter.

[0009] Over the years, various technical solutions have been developed that provide for the use of circular textile machines in order to create tubular textile items that contribute to the realization of garments for the lower portion of the body.

[0010] A first known solution consists in the creation of two tubular-shaped textile items suitable for constituting the two leg portions of the final textile item. The two textile tubulars are then cut, shaped, and sewn together in correspondence of a longitudinal extremal portion for realizing a tubular portion having an increased diameter to accommodate the waist of the wearer. It is clear that the aforementioned method is particularly complex because, firstly, it reguires the realization of two starting separate tubular textile items and, subseguently, it involves laborious cutting and sewing operations to join the two tubulars in order to create the portion with a larger diameter suitable for accommodating the waist of the end user.

[0011] In order to simplify the realizing operations of the textile items, alternative solutions have been developed that provide for the realization of a textile item starting from a unique tubular textile item. Specifically, in such solutions, a textile item having a constant diameter is first created. In this case, the diameter of the tubular textile item is sized so as to obtain, at the longitudinal ends, openings wide enough to accommodate the waist of the wearer. Subsequently, one or more cutting operations are carried out along the longitudinal direction of the tubular textile item starting from one of the two ends so as to create two fabric flaps which, once sewn in an appropriate way, compose the portions of the legs of the garment.

[0012] Advantageously, the longitudinal cutting operations of the textile item allow to shape the portions of the legs so that they can adapt to the anatomy of the wearer and, above all, follow the conformation of the lower limbs, which present overall a circumference that gradually increases from the ankle up to the thigh in the proximity of the inguinal area. Therefore, when the starting textile item presents a constant diameter along its entire longitudinal development, the cutting operations involve the discarding of a quantity of textile material, in particular in correspondence of the portions of the textile item suitable for constituting the lower ends of the legs of the finished garment.

[0013] In order to minimize material waste due to the cutting and shaping operations previously described, it was therefore conceived to realize a tubular textile item presenting a variable diameter along its longitudinal development. Specifically, in such solutions, the starting tubular textile item presents a minimum diameter in the area wherein the openings for the ankles are obtained and a maximum diameter in the end suitable for defining the opening for the waist of the user. In other words, the tubular textile item presents a frustoconical conformation in at least one portion of its longitudinal development. Therefore, the gradually increasing diameter of a portion of the tubular textile item allows to reduce, and at most eliminate, the amount of textile material discarded in the execution of the cutting operations suitable for shaping the legs of the garment previously described.

[0014] A first embodiment of the variable diameter frustoconical portion provides for maintaining constant the number of knitted stitches that compose the rows of the tubular textile item. The variation in diameter is locally obtained by varying the density of the knitted fabric (i.e., tightening / loosening the knitted stitches), and / or varying the characteristics of the yarn (for example, by modulating the tension of the yarn fed or using yarns of different elasticity) and / or varying the structure of the knitted fabric (for example, by selecting "ribs,” i.e., jacquard workings, variable between the rows).

[0015] An alternative solution provides for varying the number of needles that cooperate in the formation of the item and therefore the number of knitted stitches that compose the rows of the frustoconical portion of the tubular textile item. In this way, the density of the knitted fabric, when worn, is more uniform throughout the longitudinal development of the conical textile tubular. Specifically, the production process of the textile item starts from the end with the minimum diameter by activating only a portion of the needles that compose the needle bed of the textile machine, while the remaining portion of the needles remains in an inactive configuration. In the frustoconical portion, the diameter of the item is gradually increased by activating, between two consecutive rows, one or more of the initially inactive needles, by means of operations commonly referred to as "increases”. The production of a tubular textile item having a frustoconical portion obtained by means of the gradual activation of the needles of the needle bed is exemplarily described in the document US404229A.

[0016] Once the maximum diameter programmed and / or allowed by the needle bed of the textile machine has been reached, the process typically provides for the production of a further portion at a constant diameter, i.e., a portion wherein no "increases” are provided, for the production of the portion suitable for encircling the waist of the user.

[0017] Finally, the tubular textile item thus obtained is cut longitudinally at least in correspondence with the frustoconical portion to obtain two flaps which, once closed by sewing, form the leg portions of the garment.

[0018] It is, furthermore, noted that the textile items having frustoconical portions realized with techniques equivalent to those above described are also used in the realization of sleeves of garments destined to the upper part of the body, such as sweaters and T-shirts. Specifically, in the realization of such garments, the sleeves are realized separately and then are sewn to the portions suitable for wrapping the chest of the user.

[0019] Summary

[0020] In the field of garment realization starting from tubular textile items realized by means of circular knitting machines, the Applicant has found the presence of some limitations and drawbacks in the techniques used so far.

[0021] Firstly, it has been shown that most of the solutions known and implemented so far provides that at least one portion of the textile material that composes the tubular textile items is discarded, with obvious consequences on the production cost of the relative textile items.

[0022] Furthermore, according to what has been previously described, the known solutions provide for the creation of starting tubular textile items, which must be subjected to a certain number of cutting and sewing operations for the realization of the corresponding textile items or relative portions. In particular, the tubular textile items are cut along part of their longitudinal development so as to create flaps which, once sewn together in an appropriate way, allow to obtain a textile item that presents locally the desired diameter. These cutting and sewing operations are particularly complex and laborious and impact on the efficiency of the entire process for realizing the textile item.

[0023] In addition, in order to obtain a textile item of the desired quality, it is essential that the cutting operations are carried out with the utmost precision so as to allow that the edges of the flaps obtained by means of the cutting operations can fit together perfectly and do not generate wrinkles and / or defective seams. In this sense, in known solutions, it is essential to be equipped with high precision cutting stations so as not to compromise the quality of the final textile item.

[0024] In this situation, an object at the basis of the present invention, in its various aspects and / or embodiments, is to propose a process for realizing a tubular textile item with a circular knitting machine, a tubular textile item obtained by means of said process, a realizing method of a textile item and a relative textile item obtained by means of said realizing method that are capable of solving the aforementioned problems and overcoming the limitations of the known technique.

[0025] In particular, it is object of the present invention to propose a process for realizing a tubular textile item for the realization of a textile item whose execution is particularly simple.

[0026] A further object of the present invention is to offer a process for realizing a tubular textile item capable of minimizing or eliminating the waste material generated during the realization of the final textile item.

[0027] Another purpose of the present invention is to offer a process for realizing a tubular textile item wherein the cutting and sewing operations necessary for the realization of the final textile item are minimized.

[0028] Yet another object of the present invention is to describe a process for realizing a tubular textile item with specific structural characteristics capable of conferring determined aesthetic and / or comfort and wearability properties to the final textile item.

[0029] A further object of the present invention is to propose a process for realizing a tubular textile item characterized by a stable structure and not subject to defects or imperfections.

[0030] It is furthermore object of the present invention to propose a tubular textile item realized by means of the above- mentioned process.

[0031] A further object of the present invention to propose a realizing method of a textile item that provides the execution of the above-mentioned process for realizing a tubular textile item.

[0032] Another object of the present invention is to provide a realizing method of a textile item with reduced complexity. Another object of the present invention is to provide a realizing method of a textile item with a competitive cost with respect to solutions known in the art.

[0033] Yet another object of the present invention is to provide a textile item obtained by means of the above-mentioned realizing method. In particular, object of the above-mentioned invention is to provide a textile item, specifically a garment, with improved aesthetic and / or comfort and wearability properties with respect to the solutions known in the art.

[0034] A further object of the present invention is to create alternative solutions, with respect to the known technique, in the realization of tubular items and in the realization of textile items, and / or to open new design fields.

[0035] These objects, and any others, that will become clearer during the following description, are substantially reached by a process for realizing a tubular textile item with a circular knitting machine, a tubular textile item obtained by means of said process, a realizing method of a textile item and a relative textile item obtained by means of said realizing method according to one or more of the attached claims, as well as according to the following aspects and / or embodiments, variously combined, possibly also with the above-mentioned claims.

[0036] In a first aspect, the invention relates to a process for realizing a tubular textile item through a circular weft knitting machine. Specifically, the textile item realized by means of said process is destined to constitute at least one portion of a textile item, in particular a garment.

[0037] According to the preceding aspect, said process comprises a step of arranging a circular knitting machine of the seamless type. This circular knitting machine comprises at least one feed or fall and a needle-holding organ supporting a plurality of needles, defining a circular needle bed arranged along a circumference and configured to form knitted fabric with at least one yarn fed from said at least one feed. The needle-holding organ results rotatable relative to said at least one feed.

[0038] It should be noted that the term "seamless” is commonly used in the field of circular textile machines and refers to the ability to realize a textile fabric with a tubular conformation without seams, wherein the continuity of the knitted fabric structure is ensured by knitting each row with the preceding row and the following row. Circular weft knitting machines of the seamless type are shown, for example, in documents WO2011042299 and WO2012117352 in the name of the same Applicant.

[0039] According to the preceding aspect, each needle of said plurality of needles is selectively configurable at least in an active configuration, wherein said needle receives or retains said at least one yarn in correspondence of said at least one feed, and an inactive configuration, wherein said needle does not receive said at least one yarn in correspondence of said at least one feed.

[0040] In the present document, with the expression "active configuration” referred to a needle of the circular needlebed is intended a configuration wherein said needle is configured to receive a yarn from said at least one feed during the formation of a determined stitch row. Said at least one yarn can be knitted for realizing a knitted loop with the preceding row, for example by realizing a plain knitted stitch, or it can be retained for one or more rows, for example for realizing a knitted stitch of the tuck type.

[0041] In a specular manner, in the present document, with the expression "inactive configuration” referred to a needle of the circular needle-bed is intended a configuration wherein said needle is configured to not receive a yarn from said at least one feed during the formation of a determined stitch row. In this sense, in said determined row, the needle in inactive configuration does not provide for the presence of knitted stitches on its stem and does not realize new stitches of any type with said yarn.

[0042] It should be noted that, in said active configuration, a needle can be selectively positioned:

[0043] - in an operating position, or "selection”, wherein the needle receives at least one yarn to form a knitted loop;

[0044] - in non-operating position, or "non-selection”, wherein the needle does not receive a yarn but retains, for at least one row, the knitted loop previously formed and present in its head. Therefore, the aforementioned expression "inactive configuration” should not be confused with "non-operating needles,” because in the inactive configuration the needle in addition to not having knitted loops on its stem, is not involved in the formation of new stitches, while a non-operating needle is not involved in the formation of new stitches but participates to the realization of the knitted fabric structure because stitches are present on its stem.

[0045] Substantially, the needles in operating position and non-operating position are anyway included in the aforementioned "active configuration”, i.e. they are part of the active needles.

[0046] In an aspect, a ratio between the number of needles in an active configuration and the size of said circumference of the circular needle-bed defines the fineness of said circular knitting machine. Specifically, the fineness is a precise measurement representing, for each row, the number of needles that contribute to form the knitted fabric stitches of that row (i.e., the activated needles) and is typically expressed as the number of needles per measuring unit of the needle bed, for example the number of needles per inch of the cylinder. The fineness of said circular knitting machine can, therefore, be modulated between a maximum nominal value, wherein all the needles of the circular needle-bed are in active configuration and contribute to form the knitted fabric stitches of a row, and a minimum nominal value, when a minimum value of needles of the circular needle-bed are in active configuration.

[0047] According to the preceding aspect, said process comprises a step of programming said circular knitting machine so as to define said tubular textile item to be realized from a first open end, defining a first opening, up to a second open end, defining a second opening. Specifically, said tubular textile item extends longitudinally with continuity between said first end and said second end and is composed by a plurality of successive stitch rows. According to the preceding aspect, said step of programming said circular knitting machine comprises at least the following steps: defining a starting number of needles of said plurality of needles in said active configuration, said starting number of needles defining a starting fineness; defining a final number of needles of said plurality of needles in said active configuration, said final number of needles defining an ending fineness; defining a target number of needles of said plurality of needles in said active configuration; said target number of needles being greater than said starting number of needles and said final number of needles and defining a maximum fineness; defining a portion of increases, interposed between said first end and said second end and constituted by a first plurality of successive stitch rows from a first row (first row of the portion of increases), proximal to said first end and formed by said starting number of needles, up to a second row (last row of the portion of increases), distal from said first end and formed by said target number of needles; said portion of increases determining a first frustoconical portion of said tubular textile item having increasing diameter from said first row to said second row; defining a portion of decreases, interposed between said portion of increases and said second end and constituted by a second plurality of successive stitch rows from a third row (first row of the portion of decreases), distal from said second end and formed by said target number of needles, up to a fourth row (last row of the portion of decreases), proximal to said second end and formed by said final number of needles; said portion of decreases determining a second frustoconical portion of said tubular textile item having decreasing diameter from said third row to said fourth row.

[0048] According to the preceding aspect, said process comprises a step of producing knitted fabric with said circular knitting machine for realizing said tubular textile item according to said step of programming.

[0049] According to an aspect, said step of producing knitted fabric with said circular knitting machine provides for realizing said textile item starting from said first end up to said second end. According to this aspect, the step of producing knitted fabric provides that the realization of said circular textile item starts in correspondence of the first end and ends in correspondence of the second end.

[0050] In an aspect, said step of arranging a circular knitting machine provides for arranging a circular knitting machine of single-bed type.

[0051] In an aspect, said step of arranging a circular knitting machine provides that said circular knitting machine comprises a unique needle-holding organ.

[0052] In an aspect, said starting number of needles coincides with said final number of needles. According to this aspect, said starting fineness coincides with said ending fineness.

[0053] In an aspect, said target number of needles is less than or equal to the number of needles of said plurality of needles of the needle-holding organ.

[0054] In an aspect, said target number of needles is equal at least twice as much as said starting number of needles. In an aspect, said target number of needles is equal at least twice as much as said final number of needles.

[0055] In an aspect, said step of defining a portion of increases provides that, in at least one transition between a pair of consecutive rows of said first plurality of rows, at least one needle of said plurality of needles is brought from said inactive configuration to said active configuration. In particular, the passage of said at least one needle from said inactive configuration to said active configuration determines an increasing operation.

[0056] In an aspect, said step of defining a portion of decreases provides that, in at least one transition between a pair of consecutive rows of said second plurality of rows, at least one needle of said plurality of needles is brought from said active configuration to said inactive configuration. Specifically, the passage of said at least one needle from said active configuration to said inactive configuration determines a decreasing operation.

[0057] In an aspect, each increasing operation provides for an increase of said fineness in said transition between a pair of consecutive rows of said first plurality of rows. In an aspect, each increasing operation provides that a second row of said pair of consecutive rows is composed by a number of knitting stitches greater with respect to a number of knitting stitches which compose a first row of said pair of consecutive rows.

[0058] It should be noted that in the present description, the expressions "first / second row of a pair of consecutive rows” refer to the temporal and spatial sequentiality with which the two rows that compose said pair are produced by the circular knitting machine, with the first row which represents the row which is produced before and the second row which represents the row which is produced subsequently.

[0059] In an aspect, said decreasing operation provides a decrease of said fineness in said transition between a pair of consecutive rows of said second plurality of rows.

[0060] In an aspect, said decreasing operation provides that a second row of said pair of consecutive rows is composed by a number of knitting stitches lower with respect to a number of knitting stitches which compose a first row of said pair of consecutive rows.

[0061] In an aspect, said increasing operation provides that said at least one needle brought from said inactive configuration to said active configuration receives said at least one yarn starting from said second row of said pair of consecutive rows.

[0062] In an aspect, said decreasing operation provides that said at least one needle brought from said active configuration to said inactive configuration carries out the transport of its own knitted loop on an adjacent needle does not receive said at least one yarn starting from said second row of said pair of consecutive rows.

[0063] In an aspect, said decreasing operation provides a transfer of knitting fabric from said at least one needle brought from said active configuration to said inactive configuration to an adjacent needle in said circular needlebed. It should be noted that following a transfer operation by a needle, and subsequent passage into inactive configuration, this needle may remain in inactive configuration for an indefinite number of subsequent rows, remaining excluded from the working even until the end of the production of the item. In the present description, with the term transfer is intended a displacement of the knitted loop from a needle to an adjacent needle, typically carried out by means of needles of "transfer” type according to techniques known in the field. Examples of knitted fabric transfer are shown in documents WO2006136312A1 and ITMI20041146A on behalf of the same Applicant.

[0064] In an aspect, said step of defining a portion of increases provides that said first plurality of rows is formed by a number of needles in active configuration that varies in an increasing monotonic way from said starting number of needles in correspondence at least of said first row to said target number of needles in correspondence at least of said second row.

[0065] In an aspect, said step of defining a portion of decreases provides that said second plurality of rows is formed by a number of needles in active configuration that varies in a decreasing monotonic way from said target number of needles in correspondence at least of said third row to said final number of needles in correspondence at least of said fourth row.

[0066] In an aspect, said step of programming said circular knitting machine comprises, furthermore, a step of defining a starting portion constituted by a starting plurality of successive stitch rows from a starting row, in correspondence of said first end, up to said first row.

[0067] In an aspect, said starting plurality of rows is configured to be realized by said starting number of needles.

[0068] In an aspect, said starting plurality of rows is configured to be realized by said circular knitting machine with said starting fineness.

[0069] In an aspect, said starting plurality of rows presents a constant number of knitting stitches. According to this aspect, said starting plurality of rows is configured to be realized by said knitting machine with constant fineness equal to said starting fineness.

[0070] In an aspect, said starting portion is configured to determine a first extremal portion of said tubular textile item having constant diameter from said starting row to said first row.

[0071] In an aspect, said first extremal portion is configured to constitute a first hem of said textile item. In an embodiment, said first hem is a single hem or a double hem. In an alternative embodiment, said first hem is a hem of booton type (i.e. a double hem realized using only the needles of the needle bed).

[0072] In an aspect, said step of programming said circular knitting machine comprises, furthermore, a step of defining a final portion constituted by a final plurality of successive stitch rows starting from said fourth row up to a final row, in correspondence of said second end.

[0073] In an aspect, said final plurality of rows is configured to be realized by said final number of needles.

[0074] In an aspect, said final plurality of rows is configured to be realized by said circular knitting machine with said ending fineness.

[0075] In an aspect, said final plurality of rows presents a constant number of knitting stitches. According to this aspect, said final plurality of rows is configured to be realized by said knitting machine with constant fineness equal to said ending fineness.

[0076] In an aspect, said final portion is configured to determine a second extremal portion of said tubular textile item having constant diameter from said fourth row to said final row.

[0077] In an aspect, said second extremal portion is configured to constitute a second hem of said textile item. In an embodiment, said second hem is a single hem or a double hem. In an alternative embodiment, said second hem is a hem of booton type (i.e. a double hem realized using only the needles of the needle bed).

[0078] In an aspect, said step of programming said circular knitting machine comprises, furthermore, a step of defining a central portion constituted by a central plurality of successive stitch rows starting from said second row to said third row.

[0079] In an aspect, said central plurality of rows is configured to be realized by said target number of needles. In an aspect, said central plurality of rows is configured to be realized by said circular knitting machine with said maximum fineness.

[0080] In an aspect, said central plurality of rows presents a constant number of knitting stitches. According to this aspect, said central plurality of rows is configured to be realized by said knitting machine with constant fineness equal to said maximum fineness.

[0081] In an aspect, said central portion is configured to determine an intermediate portion of said tubular textile item having constant diameter from said second row to said third row.

[0082] In an aspect, said central plurality of rows provides for the execution of one or more decreasing operations followed by corresponding increasing operations and / or one or more increasing operations followed by corresponding decreasing operations in order to locally and temporarily vary the quantity of knitted fabric which composes said intermediate portion.

[0083] In an aspect, in said active configuration, each needle of said plurality of needles is selectively positionable in at least the following positions:

[0084] - operating position, or "selection”, wherein said needle is configured to receive said at least one yarn from said at least one feed to form a knitted loop;

[0085] - non-operating position, or "non-selection”, wherein said needle is configured not to receive a yarn but to retain, for at least one row, the knitted loop previously formed and present in its head.

[0086] The passage of a needle in active configuration between said operating position and said non-operating position is carried out by means of known solutions in the technique and commonly defined with the term "selections”. In an aspect, said step of programming said circular knitting machine provides for defining at least one functional zone of said tubular textile item extending for a plurality of consecutive rows. According to this aspect, said at least one functional zone is determined by a geometric pattern of needles in said operating position and needles in said non-operating position.

[0087] In an aspect, said at least one functional zone is configured to determine a shaping of said tubular textile item. In an aspect, said plurality of consecutive rows forming said at least one functional zone extends at least in said central plurality of rows.

[0088] In an aspect, said geometric pattern can also provide for the execution of one or more decreasing operations followed by corresponding increasing operations and / or one or more increasing operations followed by corresponding decreasing operations in order to modify the quantity of knitted fabric in which is defined the respective functional zone.

[0089] In an aspect, said step of programming said circular knitting machine comprises, furthermore, a step of defining at least one cutting line extending for a plurality of consecutive rows. Specifically, said at least one cutting line is configured to represent a portion of said tubular textile item to be subjected to a cutting operation for a realization of said textile item. In an aspect, said at least one cutting line is configured to guide said cutting operation following said step of producing knitted fabric with said tubular knitting machine.

[0090] In an aspect, said cutting line is configured to be realized with particular needle selections or with a yarn having a color different with respect to the remaining portions of said tubular textile item.

[0091] In an independent aspect, the present invention refers also to a tubular textile item realized through a process according to any one of the preceding aspects.

[0092] In a further independent aspect, the present invention refers to a realizing method of a textile item, in particular a garment.

[0093] According to the preceding aspect, said realizing method comprising at least the steps of:

[0094] - producing at least one tubular textile item by means of a process according to any one of the preceding aspects;

[0095] - cutting, preferably along a longitudinal direction, at least one portion of said tubular textile item to create at least one additional opening suitable for receiving in insertion at least one portion of the body of a wearer of said textile item.

[0096] In an aspect, said realizing method comprises at least the steps of:

[0097] - realizing at least one second textile item;

[0098] - applying, preferably by sewing, said at least one second textile item in correspondence of said at least one additional opening.

[0099] In an aspect, said at least one second textile item is a second tubular textile item extending longitudinally with continuity between a lower end and an upper end. According to this aspect, said second tubular textile item is configured to be applied, preferably sewn, in correspondence of said lower end to said at least one additional opening of said tubular textile item.

[0100] In an aspect, said at least one second textile item is a second tubular textile item having substantially constant diameter.

[0101] In a further independent aspect, the present invention refers to a textile item obtained by means of the realizing method according to one or more of the preceding aspects.

[0102] In an aspect, said textile item is a garment for a lower portion of the body of said user.

[0103] In an aspect, said textile item is a pair of leggings.

[0104] In an aspect, said textile item is a pair of pants.

[0105] In an aspect, said first frustoconical portion of said tubular textile item represents a first leg portion of said textile item and said second frustoconical portion of said tubular textile item represents a second leg portion of said textile item, opposed to said first leg portion.

[0106] Further features and advantages will result more clearly from the detailed description of a preferred but not exclusive embodiment, of a process for realizing a tubular textile item with a circular knitting machine, a tubular textile item obtained by means of said process, a realizing method of a textile item and a relative textile item obtained by means of said realizing method according to the present invention.

[0107] Description of figures

[0108] The following description will be provided with reference to the attached figures, given for illustrative purposes only and, therefore, non-limiting, in which: figure 1 shows a first embodiment of a tubular textile item realized by a circular knitting machine according to the process object of the present invention; in particular, is shown a simplified lateral view of the tubular textile item; figure 2 shows a second embodiment of the tubular textile item realized by means of the process according to the present invention in a simplified view; figure 3 is a photo of a sample garment realized according to the embodiment schematized in figure 2; figures 4 and 5 represent an example embodiment of the result of a step of programming of the knitting machine being part of the process according to the present invention, wherein the drawing of figure 5 is offset by 180° with respect to the drawing of figure 4; figure 6 shows an enlargement of the detail VI of the result of the step of programming of figure 4; figure 7 shows an enlargement of the detail VII of the result of the step of programming of figure 4; figure 8 shows an enlargement of the detail VIII of the result of the step of programming of figure 4; figure 9 shows a realizing method of a textile item comprising the tubular textile item of figure 2; figure 10 shows the textile item obtained by means of the realizing method of figure 9; figure 11 shows some portions of the knitted fabric structure (view from inside the tubular) of the tubular textile item of figure 1.

[0109] Detailed description

[0110] With reference to the annexed figures, with the reference "100” has been overall indicated a tubular textile item, indicated alternatively also as "textile item 100”, "tubular item 100”, "item 100” or "tubular 100” for the sake of simplicity in the following. The tubular textile item 100 is configured to constitute at least a portion of a textile item T, shown in the annexed figures too and object of the present description. Specifically, the present description has as its object a process for realizing the tubular textile item 100 through a circular weft knitting machine and a realizing method of the textile item T. Generally, the same reference number is used for identical or similar elements, eventually in their embodiment variants.

[0111] Preferably, as clearly shown in the annexed figures, the textile item T composed at least partially by the tubular textile item 100 is a garment. In the embodiments shown in the annexed figures, the textile item T is a garment for the lower portion of the body of the user, as a pair of leggings or a pair of pants. This limitation is to be intended as an example and is absolutely non-limiting, as the textile item T may also coincide with a garment for other portions of the body, such as, for example, the upper part of the body.

[0112] Firstly, the process for realizing the tubular textile item 100 comprises a step of arranging a circular knitting machine of the seamless type. In its essential elements, the circular knitting machine comprises at least one feed or fall and a needle-holding organ (or needle-bearing cylinder) supporting a plurality of needles configured to form knitted fabric with at least one yarn fed from the feed or from the feeds. In particular, the plurality of needles defines a circular needle bed arranged along a circumference. In the knitted fabric formation process, the needle-holding organ results rotatable relative to the feed or feeds.

[0113] It should be noted which the term "seamless” is commonly used in the field of circular textile machines and refers to the ability to realize a textile fabric with a tubular conformation without seams, wherein the continuity of the knitted fabric structure is ensured by knitting each row with the preceding row and the following row. Circular weft knitting machines of the seamless type are shown, for example, in documents WO2011042299 and WO2012117352 in the name of the same Applicant.

[0114] In the context of the circular knitting machine, each needle of the plurality of needles is selectively configurable at least in an active configuration, wherein the needle receives or retains at least one yarn in correspondence of at least one feed, and an inactive configuration, wherein the needle does not receive any yarn in correspondence of the feed or feeds.

[0115] In the present document, with the expression "active configuration” referred to a needle of the circular needlebed is intended a configuration wherein said needle is configured to receive and / or retain at least a yarn from at least one feed during the formation of a determined stitch row. Specifically, each received yarn can be knitted for realizing a knitted loop with the preceding row, for example by realizing a plain knitted stitch, or it can be retained for one or more rows, for example for realizing a knitted stitch of the tuck type. In other words, in the active configuration, the needle is configured to receive at least one yarn and realizing a stitch of any type. Said alternatively, in the active configuration, the needle provides for the presence of stitches on its stem so as to realize new stitches of any type.

[0116] In a substantially specular manner, with the expression "inactive configuration” referred to a needle of the circular needle-bed is intended a configuration wherein said needle is configured to not receive a yarn in correspondence of the feed or feeds during the formation of a determined stitch row. In this sense, in the above- mentioned row, the needle in inactive configuration does not provide for the presence of stitches on the relative stem and does not realize new stitches of any type. The difference between active configuration and inactive configuration of the needles of the circular needle-bed will become clear in the present description with reference to the knitted fabric structures which compose the various portions of the tubular textile item 100.

[0117] The possibility of dynamically varying the configuration of each needle of the circular needle-bed between the active configuration and the inactive configuration allows to modulate a characteristic of the circular knitting machine commonly referred to as fineness. In detail, the fineness of the circular knitting machine is defined as the ratio between the number of needles in an active configuration and the size of the circumference of the circular needle-bed. Specifically, the fineness of the knitting machine is a precise measurement representing, for each row produced, the number of needles which contribute to form the knitted fabric stitches of that row (i.e. the needles in active configuration) and is typically expressed in number of needles per measuring unit of the needle bed, for example number of needles per inch of the circular needle-bed (or of the cylinder). The fineness of the circular knitting machine can, therefore, be modulated between a maximum nominal value, wherein all the needles of the circular needle-bed are in active configuration and contribute to form the knitted fabric stitches of a row, and a minimum nominal value, when a minimum value of needles of the circular needlebed are in active configuration. Advantageously, the possibility of modulating the fineness of the knitting machine during the production of knitted fabric allows to produce a tubular textile item whose rows present a number of knitting stitches different from each other.

[0118] Preferably, in the active configuration, each needle of the plurality of needles is selectively positionable in at least the following positions:

[0119] - operating position, or "selection”, wherein the needle is configured to receive at least one yarn from the feed, or feeds, and to form a knitted loop;

[0120] - non-operating position, or "non-selection”, wherein the needle is configured to retain, for at least one row, the at least one yarn provided by the feed, or feeds, and not to receive further yarns.

[0121] The passage of a needle in active configuration between the operating position and the non-operating position is carried out by means of solutions known in the technique and commonly named in the textile field with the term "selections'”'.

[0122] Specifically, in the operating position or "selection”, the needle is configured to receive at least one yarn, which is meshed with the yarn of the preceding row to form a new knitted loop. Therefore, in the operating position, the needle is configured to generate knitted stitches on each row, for example a plain knitted stitch on each row. On the contrary, in the non-operating configuration, the needle is configured to retain at least one yarn, of a knitted loop, for one or more rows. In other words, in the non-operating position, the needle does not generate a knitted loop at each row, but retains one or more knitted stitches for a determined number of rows, without receiving further yarns, so as to generate a thickening of the fabric which extends on multiple rows. Typically, a needle cannot be maintained in the non-operating position for an excessive number of rows, as the prolonged retention of the knitted stitch can generate a tension such as to expose the circular knitting machine to the risk of malfunction, for example due to a possible breakage of the retained yarn and / or of the needle itself in the non-operating position. Generally, for safety reasons, it is preferable not to retain a yarn for an excessive number of consecutive rows. Although a needle in non-operating position does not receive a yarn for each row wherein results in active configuration, there is a fundamental difference between the needles in non-operating active configuration and the needles in inactive configuration. In fact, the needles in inactive configuration do not receive any yarn and do not retain any knitted stitch as long as they remain in that state. On the contrary, the needles in active configuration in non-operating position, despite having received one or more yarns from the feeds of the machine and having generated a knitted stitch, do not collect a new yarn in their non-operating state but retain the knitted stitch previously formed.

[0123] Preferably, the step of arranging the circular knitting machine provides for arranging a circular knitting machine of single-bed type. In other words, the arranged circular knitting machine comprises preferably a unique needleholding organ (or needle-bearing cylinder). In particular, the circular knitting machine arranged in the process according to the present description is not a so-called double cylinder knitting machine.

[0124] Subsequently, once arranged a circular knitting machine having at least the above-described characteristics, the process for realizing the tubular textile item 100 comprises a step of programming this circular knitting machine. Specifically, the circular knitting machine is programmed so as to define the tubular textile item 100 as shown by way of example in the graphs of figures 4 and 5, in which the lines represent the single rows which compose the textile item 100 while the columns represent the configurations assumed by a determined needle of the circular needle-bed during the production of knitted fabric. Some details of the step of programming are represented in the enlargements of the figures 6-8, wherein, through a square representation, is shown the status of each needle of the circular needle bed (development along the columns) for each row (development along the lines) of the item 100. Specifically, each white square is representative of the active configuration in operating position of a determined needle for a determined row. On the contrary, each black square represents the inactive configuration or the active configuration in non-operating position of a determined needle for a determined row. In the inactive configuration, each needle of the circular needle-bed is configured to remain in this configuration for a large number of rows. On the contrary, a needle can be maintained in the active configuration in the non-operating position only for a reduced number of rows.

[0125] With reference to figure 1 , the tubular textile item 100 to be realized extends from a first open end 1 , defining a first opening A1 , up to a second open end 2, defining a second opening A2. Specifically, the tubular textile item 100 is composed by a plurality of successive stitch rows and extends longitudinally with continuity between the first end 1 and the second end 2.

[0126] First of all, the step of programming the circular knitting machine provides for at least the execution of the following steps: defining a starting number of needles in active configuration, determining in this way a starting fineness Fstart; defining a final number of needles in active configuration, determining in this way an ending fineness Fend; defining a target number of needles in active configuration determining a maximum fineness Fmax, with target number of needles which is greater both than the above-mentioned starting number of needles and than the above-mentioned final number of needles.

[0127] It should be noted which, according to the definitions of active configuration and inactive configuration previously introduced, the target number of needles is less than or equal to number of needles of the plurality of needles of the needle-holding organ. Said in another way, the target number of needles in active configuration cannot be greater than the number of needles which compose the circular needle-bed of the needle-holding organ. Consequently, also the maximum fineness Fmax is less than, or at most equal to the maximum nominal value that can be assumed by the fineness of the machine.

[0128] As will be clear from the description which follows, the definition of said starting number of needles, final number of needles and target number of needles (and then of the starting fineness Fstart, ending fineness Fend and maximum fineness Fmax) sets structural constraints of the tubular textile item 100, in particular with respect to the number of knitted fabric stitches which compose one or more of the rows of the plurality of successive rows between the first end 1 and the second end 2.

[0129] In a preferred embodiment, the starting number of needles coincides with the final number of needles. Consequently, the starting fineness Fstart coincides with the ending fineness Fend.

[0130] Preferably, the target number of needles is equal at least twice the starting number of needles. Therefore, the rows produced with the target number of needles (that is to say with the machine set at the maximum fineness Fmax) are composed by a number of knitting stitches which is at least twice the number of knitted fabric stitches which compose the rows produced with the starting number of needles (i.e. with the machine set at the starting fineness Fstart).

[0131] In a substantially similar way, the target number of needles is equal at least twice also of the final number of needles. Consequently, the rows produced with the target number of needles (that is to say with the machine set at the maximum fineness Fmax) are composed by a number of knitting stitches which is at least twice the number of knitted fabric stitches which compose the rows produced with the final number of needles (i.e. with the machine set at the ending fineness Fend).

[0132] Subsequently, the step of programming the circular knitting machine provides for defining at least one portion of increases, interposed between the first end 1 and the second end 2. As shown in figures 4 and 5, the portion of increases is constituted by a first plurality of successive stitch rows R1-R2 from a first row R1 (first row of the portion of increases), proximal to the first end 1 and formed by the above-mentioned starting number of needles (i.e. by means of the circular knitting machine set at the starting fineness Fstart), up to a second row R2 (last row of the portion of increases), distal from the first end 1 and formed by the above-mentioned target number of needles (i.e. by means of the circular knitting machine set at the maximum fineness Fmax). In particular, the portion of increases determines a first frustoconical portion 3 of the tubular textile item 100 which, as clearly shown in the example of figure 1 , presents an increasing diameter from the first row R1 to the second row R2. In addition, the step of programming the circular knitting machine provides for defining at least one portion of decreases, interposed between the portion of increases and the second end 2. With reference to the representations of figures 4 and 5, the portion of decreases is constituted by a second plurality of successive stitch rows R3-R4 from a third row R3 (first row of the portion of decreases), distal from the second end 2 and formed by the above-mentioned target number of needles (i.e. by means of the circular knitting machine set at the maximum fineness Fmax), up to a fourth row R4 (last row of the portion of decreases), proximal to the second end 2 and formed by the above-mentioned final number of needles (i.e. by means of the circular knitting machine set at the ending fineness Fend). Specifically, the portion of decreases determines a second frustoconical portion 4 of the tubular textile item 100 which, as still shown in figure 1 , presents a decreasing diameter from the third row R3 to the fourth row R4.

[0133] In light of the above, it should be noted which the portion of increases starts producing knitted fabric with the starting number of needles in active configuration at least in correspondence of the first row R1 and ends with the target number of needles in active configuration at least in correspondence of the second row R2. Therefore, the portion of increases provides an increase of the number of needles in active configuration. In a substantially specular way, the portion of decreases starts by producing knitted fabric with the target number of needles in active configuration at least in correspondence of the third row R3 and ends with the final number of needles in active configuration at least in correspondence of the fourth row R4. Consequently, the portion of decreases provides a decrease of the number of needles in active configuration.

[0134] In the attached figures, embodiments are shown wherein the tubular textile item 100 comprises only one portion of increases followed, preferably after a determined number of transition rows, by only one portion of decreases. These embodiments are to be intended as examples and are in no way limiting, since embodiments of the tubular textile item 100 comprising an alternation between a plurality of portions of increases and a plurality of portions of decreases are to be intended as realizable by means of the process described. In detail, even in these embodiments, it is still possible to isolate at least one first plurality of rows R1-R2 and at least one second plurality of rows R3-R4 which meet the requirements previously described with respect to the design step of the present process for realizing the tubular textile item 100.

[0135] Finally, the process comprises a step of producing knitted fabric with the circular knitting machine for realizing the tubular textile item 100 according to the step of programming. It should be noted, then, that the process according to the present description provides that the step of production of the plurality of rows which compose the tubular item 100 is fully automated on the basis of the step of programming. In particular, the step of producing knitted fabric with the circular knitting machine provides for realizing the textile item from the first end 1 up to the second end 2 according to the production verse X. Therefore, the step of producing knitted fabric provides that the realization of the textile item 100 starts in correspondence of the first end 1 and ends in correspondence of the second end 2. In other words, in the production of the textile tubular item 100, the first end 1 is produced before the second end 2. According to the structural definitions previously provided and with the attached figures, the realization of the tubular 100 provides that the first row R1 , the second row R2, the third row R3 and the fourth row R4 are produced in the order in which they have just been listed.

[0136] It is now described in more detail, with reference in particular to the enlargement of figure 6, the portion of increases defined in the step of programming of the knitting machine according to the process object of the present description.

[0137] The definition of a portion of increases provides that, in at least one transition between a pair of consecutive rows of the first plurality of rows R1-R2, at least one needle of the plurality of needles is brought from the inactive configuration to the active configuration. In particular, the aforementioned passage of at least one needle from the inactive configuration to the active configuration determines an increasing operation 31 , 32, 33. Since the first row R1 is realized by means of the starting number of needles and that the starting number of needles is less than the target number of needles with which is realized the second row R2 (which is in turn less than or equal to the total number of needles of the circular needle-bed), the definition of the portion of increases provides that at least one portion of the needles of the circular needle-bed is in inactive configuration in correspondence of the first row R1 . In at least one transition between two consecutive rows of the plurality of first rows R1-R2, the portion of increases provides that at least one of the needles in inactive configuration in correspondence of the first row R1 is brought in active configuration through a corresponding increasing operation 31 , 32, 33. In other words, each increasing operation 31 , 32, 33 determines an increase of the needles in active configuration. Consequently, each increasing operation determines an increase of the fineness of the knitting machine in the transition between a pair of consecutive rows of the first plurality of rows R1-R2.

[0138] According to what has been previously defined and as shown in figure 11 , each increasing operation 31, 32, 33 provides that the second row of the pair of consecutive rows of the first plurality of rows R1-R2 is composed by a number of knitting stitches greater with respect to the number of knitting stitches which compose the first row of the pair of consecutive rows. It should be noted which, in the present description, the expressions "first / second row of a pair of consecutive rows” refer to the temporal and spatial sequentiality with which the two rows which compose the aforementioned pair are produced by the circular knitting machine, with the first row which represents the row which is produced before and the second row which represents the row which is produced. Subsequently according to the production verse X. Consequently, each increasing operation 31 , 32, 33 provides that the at least one needle brought from the inactive configuration to the active configuration receives at least one yarn from the second row of the pair of consecutive rows to form knitted stitches.

[0139] Preferably, the portion of increases provides that the first plurality of rows R1-R2 is formed by a number of needles in active configuration that varies in an increasing monotonic way from the starting number of needles in correspondence at least of the first row R1 to the target number of needles in correspondence at least of the second row R2. In other words, the number of knitted stitches which form the single rows of the first plurality of rows R1-R2 results increasing in one direction which goes from the first row R1 to the second row R2, i.e. in the production direction X. Even more preferably, in the portion of increases, the number of needles in active configuration gradually increases from the starting number of needles in correspondence at least of the first row R1 to the target number of needles in correspondence at least of the second row R2. In the embodiments shown, this gradual increase in the number of needles in active configuration is represented by the increasing width of the light (white) area in correspondence of the first plurality of rows R1-R2 in figures 4-5 and in the gradual increasing operations 31 , 32, 33 shown in detail of figure 6. Therefore, the diameter of the first frustoconical portion 3 varies gradually, specifically increases, from the first row R1 to the second row R2. In particular, the variation in the number of knitted stitches determined by the increasing operations 31 , 32, 33 allows to locally increase the diameter of the tubular 100 without substantially modifying the density of the knitted fabric produced by the circular knitting machine.

[0140] In a way substantially specular to the portion of increases, is now described in more detail, with reference in particular to the enlargement of figure 8, the portion of decreases which is carried out after the portion of increases in the context of the process object of the present description.

[0141] The definition of the portion of decreases provides that, in at least one transition between a pair of consecutive rows of the second plurality of rows R3-R4, at least one needle of the plurality of needles is brought from the active configuration to the inactive configuration. Since the third row R3 is realized by means of the target number of needles and which the target number of needles is greater of the final number of needles with which is realized the fourth row R4, the definition of the portion of decreases provides that at least one portion of the needles of the circular needle-bed in active configuration in correspondence of the third row R3 is in inactive configuration in correspondence of the fourth row R4. Specifically, the passage of at least one needle from the active configuration to the inactive configuration determines a decreasing operation 41 , 42, 43. In other words, each decreasing operation 41 , 42, 43 determines a decrease of the needles in active configuration. Consequently, each decreasing operation determines a decrease of the fineness of the knitting machine in the transition between a pair of consecutive rows of the second plurality of rows R3-R4.

[0142] In light of the above and as shown in figure 11, each decreasing operation 41 , 42, 43 provides that a second row of the pair of consecutive rows of the second plurality of rows R3-R4 is composed by a number of knitting stitches lower with respect to the number of knitted stitches which compose the first row of this pair of consecutive rows. In particular, each decreasing operation 41 , 42, 43 provides that the at least one needle brought from the active configuration to the inactive configuration does not receive any yarn starting from the second row of the pair of consecutive rows and, therefore, does not form knitted fabric, remaining, in fact, excluded from the production. With reference still to figure 11 , each decreasing operation 41 , 42, 43 provides the passage of a needle from the active configuration to the inactive configuration with the transfer of its knitted stitch to an adjacent needle in the circular needle-bed. In the present description, with the term transfer is intended a displacement of the knitted loop from a needle to an adjacent needle, typically carried out by means of needles of "transfer” type according to techniques known in the field. Examples of knitted fabric transfer are shown in documents WO2006136312A1 and ITMI20041146A on behalf of the same Applicant. Advantageously, the transfer operation therefore allows to end the activity of the needle brought from the active configuration to the inactive configuration, laterally lengthening the relative last knitted loop so that it can be intermeshed with the knitted loop produced by an adjacent needle. It should be noted that following a transfer operation by a needle, and consequent passage into an inactive configuration, this needle may remain in an inactive configuration for an indefinite number of successive rows, remaining excluded from the production of the knitted fabric even up to the end of the production of the item 100, i.e. up to the second end 2. With reference to figure 8, the transfer operations of knitted fabric have been represented in an exemplary manner by means of circles in correspondence of the passage of the corresponding needle of the circular needle-bed from the active configuration to the inactive configuration, i.e. in the upper extremal position of the vertical field composed by contiguous black squares.

[0143] Preferably, the portion of decreases provides that the second plurality of rows R3-R4 is formed by a number of needles in active configuration that varies in a decreasing monotonic way from the target number of needles in correspondence at least of the third row R3 to the final number of needles in correspondence at least of the fourth row R4. In other words, the number of knitting stitches which form the single rows of the second plurality of rows R3-R4 results decreasing in a direction which goes from the third row R3 to the fourth row R4, i.e. in the production verse X. Even more preferably, in the portion of decreases, the number of needles in active configuration decreases gradually from the target number of needles in correspondence at least of the third row R3 to the final number of needles in correspondence at least of the fourth row R4. In the embodiments shown, this gradual decrease of the number of needles in active configuration is represented by the decreasing width of the light (white) zone in correspondence of the second plurality of rows R3-R4 in figures 4-5 and in the gradual decreasing operations 41 , 42, 43 shown in detail of figure 8. In this way, the diameter of the second frustoconical portion 4 varies gradually, specifically decreases, from the third row R3 to the fourth row R4. Specifically, the variation of the number of knitted fabric stitches determined by the decreasing operations 41 , 42, 43 allows to locally decrease the diameter of the tubular 100 without substantially modifying the density of the knitted fabric produced by the circular knitting machine.

[0144] As shown in embodiments of the annexed figures, preferably, the step of programming the circular knitting machine comprises also a step of defining a starting portion constituted by a starting plurality of successive rows R0-R1 from a starting row RO, in correspondence of the first end 1 , up to the first row R1 . With reference to figure 1 , the starting plurality of R0-R1 represents a first extremal portion 5 of the tubular textile item 100 which goes from the first end 1 to the first frustoconical portion 3.

[0145] Preferably, the starting plurality of rows R0-R1 is configured to be realized by means of the starting number of needles, i.e. by means of the circular knitting machine set at the starting fineness Fstart. In other words, in the starting plurality of rows R0-R1 , the number of needles in active configuration is preferably maintained constant. Consequently, the starting plurality of rows R0-R1 presents a constant number of knitting stitches. By doing so, the first extremal portion 5 of the tubular textile item 100 presents substantially constant diameter from the starting row RO to the first row R1 .

[0146] Preferably, as shown in figures 2 and 3, the first extremal portion 5 is configured to constitute a first hem B1 of the textile item T. In a first embodiment, coinciding with the embodiment of the annexed figures, the first hem B1 is a double hem. In an alternative embodiment, not shown, the first hem B1 is a single hem. In another alternative embodiment, not shown, the first hem B1 is a hem of booton type (i.e. a double hem realized using only the needles of the circular needle-bed). By way of example, in the context of the textile item T, the first hem B1 is configured to wrap an extremal portion of a limb of the wearer, for example the ankle or wrist.

[0147] According to the embodiments of the annexed figures, preferably, the step of programming the circular knitting machine comprises also a step of defining a final portion constituted by a final plurality of successive rows R4- R5 from the fourth row R4 up to a final row R5, in correspondence of the second end 2. With reference to figure 1 , the final plurality of rows R4-R5 represents a second extremal portion 6 of the tubular textile item 100 which goes from the second frustoconical portion 4 to the second end 2.

[0148] Preferably, the final plurality of rows R4-R5 is configured to be realized by means of the final number of needles, i.e. by means of the circular knitting machine set at the ending fineness Fend. In other words, in the final plurality of rows R4-R5, the number of needles in active configuration is preferably maintained constant. Consequently, the final plurality of rows R4-R5 presents a constant number of knitting stitches and the second extremal portion 6 of the tubular textile item 100 presents substantially constant diameter from the fourth row R4 to the final row R5.

[0149] Preferably, as shown in figures 2 and 3, the second extremal portion 6 is configured to constitute a second hem B2 of the textile item T. In a first embodiment, coinciding with the embodiment of the annexed figures, the second hem B2 is a double hem. In an alternative embodiment, not shown, the second hem B2 is a single hem. In another alternative embodiment, not shown, the second hem B2 is a hem of booton type (i.e. a double hem realized using only the needles of the circular needle-bed). By way of example, in the context of the textile item T, the second hem B2 is configured to wrap an extremal portion of a limb of the wearer, for example the ankle or wrist.

[0150] In addition, the step of programming the circular knitting machine can also comprise a step of defining a central portion constituted by a central plurality of successive rows R2-R3 from the second row R2 to the third row R3. With reference to the embodiment of figure 1 , the central plurality of rows R2-R3 represents an intermediate portion 7 of the tubular textile item 100 which goes from the first frustoconical portion 3 to the second frustoconical portion 4.

[0151] Preferably, the central plurality of rows R2-R3 is configured to be realized by means of the target number of needles, i.e. by means of the circular knitting machine set at the maximum fineness Fmax. In other words, in the central plurality of rows R2-R3, the number of needles in active configuration is preferably maintained constant. Consequently, the central plurality of rows R2-R3 presents a constant number of knitting stitches and the intermediate portion 7 of the tubular textile item 100 presents constant diameter from the second row R2 to the third row R3.

[0152] In other embodiments, the central plurality of rows R2-R3 can provide for the execution of one or more decreasing operations followed by corresponding increasing operations and / or one or more increasing operations followed by corresponding decreasing operations in order to locally and temporarily vary the quantity of knitted fabric which composes at least one part of the intermediate portion 7 of the tubular 100.

[0153] Still preferably, the step of programming the circular knitting machine provides for defining at least one functional zone Z1 , Z2, Z3, Z4 of the tubular textile item 100 extending for a plurality of consecutive rows. Specifically, each functional zone Z1 , Z2, Z3, Z4 is determined by a geometric pattern M1 , M2, M3, M4 of needles in operating position and needles in non-operating position. In other words, the functional zones Z1 , Z2, Z3, Z4 are designed and subsequently realized by means of schematic selections of the needles in active conditions according to a determined geometric pattern M1 , M2, M3, M4, i.e. through an ordered spatial distribution of the needles in operating position and non-operating position. Typically, each geometric pattern is characterized by a specific alternation between operating positions and non-operating positions which is followed for a plurality of consecutive rows by the needles suitable for forming the corresponding functional zone Z1 , Z2, Z3, Z4. Advantageously, each geometric pattern provides preferably that the alternations between operating positions and non-operating position of two adjacent needles, suitable for forming the same functional zone, are spatially offset between each other to avoid the situation wherein a large number of adjacent needles (i.e., an entire sector of the circular needle-bed) is simultaneously in non-operating position.

[0154] In the embodiment of figures 4-5, four different functional zones Z1 , Z2, Z3, Z4 are represented, characterized by four respective geometric patterns M1 , M2, M3, M4 distinct from each other. The differences between geometric patterns M1 , M2, M3, M4 are represented in greater detail in the enlargement of figure 7. The first geometric motif M1 of the first functional zone Z1 provides for a 1 -to-1 alternation of needles always maintained in operating position (columns entirely white for all the development of the first functional zone Z1) and of needles maintained in operating position for two rows and subsequently brought in non-operating position for example for ten / twenty rows (columns with black lines longer with respect to the white lines). The other geometric motifs M2, M3, M4 provide that all the needles responsible for forming the respective functional zones Z2, Z3, Z4 follow the same alternation between working positions and non-working positions, preferably introducing a vertical offset of at least one row between adjacent needles. Specifically, the second functional zone Z2 is realized following a second geometric pattern M2 which provides for a “1-a-2” alternation between working positions and non-working positions of all the needles responsible for forming this functional zone; the third functional zone Z3 is realized following a third geometric pattern M3 which provides for a "1 -to- 1 " alternation between working positions and non-working positions of all the needles responsible for forming this functional zone; the fourth functional zone Z4 is realized following a fourth geometric pattern M4 which provides for a "2- to-1” alternation between working positions and non-working positions of all the needles responsible for forming this functional zone (i.e., a pattern mirroring the second geometric pattern M2).

[0155] According to some embodiments, the geometric patterns may provide also for the execution of one or more decreasing operations followed by corresponding increasing operations and / or one or more increasing operations followed by corresponding decreasing operations in order to modify the quantity of knitted fabric wherein the respective functional zones are defined.

[0156] Preferably, the plurality of consecutive rows wherein is formed each functional zone Z1 , Z2, Z3, Z4 extends at least in the central plurality of rows R2-R3. More preferably, as shown in the embodiment of figures 4 and 5, each functional zone Z1 , Z2, Z3, Z4 extends, as well as in the central plurality of rows R2-R3, also in the first plurality of rows R1-R2 and in the second plurality of rows R3-R4.

[0157] From a structural point of view, the presence of at least one functional zone Z1 , Z2, Z3, Z4 is configured to determine a shaping of the tubular textile item 100. In particular, the particular geometric patterns M1 , M2, M3, M4 (i.e., the selections) with which the different functional zones Z1 , Z2, Z3, Z4, allow to obtain curlings of the fabric produced by the circular knitting machine and, overall, allow to shape, in particular to bend, the item 100 as clearly shown in figures 2 and 3, which show the tubular textile item as obtained at the exit of the circular knitting machine as a result of the step of production of the knitted fabric.

[0158] As shown in figure 5, the step of programming the circular knitting machine can also comprise a step of defining at least one cutting line C1 extending for a plurality of consecutive rows. As will become clear from the following, the cutting line C1 is configured to represent a portion of the tubular textile item 100 to be subjected to a cutting operation for the realization of the textile item T. Specifically, the cutting line C1 is configured to guide the cutting operations, which can be automated or carried out manually by an operator. In this sense, the cutting line C1 is configured to be realized with particular needle selections or with a color yarn different with respect to the remaining portions of the tubular textile item 100 so as to be easily identifiable during cutting operations.

[0159] With reference to figures 9 and 10, is now shown a further object of the present description, i.e. a realizing method of the textile item T. Specifically, the textile item T obtained by means of said realizing method is a garment.

[0160] In its main steps, the realizing method comprises at least the steps of: - producing at least the tubular textile item 100 by means of the process previously described;

[0161] - cutting, preferably along a longitudinal direction, at least one portion of the tubular textile item to create at least one additional opening A3 adapted to receive in insertion at least one portion of the body of an end wearer of the textile item T.

[0162] Preferably, the cutting operation of the tubular textile item 100 is carried out following the cutting line C1 .

[0163] As shown in figures 9 and 10, the realizing method comprises also the steps of:

[0164] - realizing at least one second textile item 200;

[0165] - applying, preferably by sewing, the second textile item 200 in correspondence of the additional opening A3. Preferably, the second textile item 200 presents a tubular conformation which extends longitudinally with continuity between an upper end 201 and a lower end 202. Still preferably, the second textile item 200 is a second tubular textile item having substantially constant diameter. As shown in figures 9 and 10, the lower end 202 of the second textile item 200 is configured to be applied, preferably sewn, to the additional opening A3 of the item 100 so as to form the overall structure of the textile item T.

[0166] In the embodiment shown in the attached figures, the textile item T obtained by means of the above-mentioned realizing method is a garment for a lower portion of the body of the end user. In a first embodiment, the textile item T is a pair of leggings. In a second embodiment, the textile item T is a pair of pants. In particular, the first frustoconical portion 3 of the tubular textile item 100 represents a first leg portion of the textile item T whereas the second frustoconical portion 4 of the tubular textile item represents a second leg portion of the same textile item, opposed to the first leg portion. The first hem B1 and the second hem B2 define the lower openings of the textile item T and are configured to wrap the ankles of the wearer. The second textile item 200, once applied to the additional opening A3 obtained in the tubular 100, is configured to constitute the upper hem of the textile item T suitable for wrapping the waist of the wearer.

[0167] It should be noted which the process for realizing the tubular textile item 100 allows to obtain a textile item T with a covering factor adjustable as desired. In particular, the increasing operations and the decreasing operations allow to vary dynamically the number of knitted stitches which compose the single rows of the tubular 100 so as to obtain zones with an increased covering factor, i.e. wherein is present more knitted fabric. Advantageously, when a textile item T is realized and worn, the variations of the covering factor allow to maintain a suitable covering of the body of the user even in the portions which are subjected to a greater dynamic stress during the use, such as the areas of the gluteus or the knee. In fact, if the number of knitted stitches which compose the tubular textile item 100 were constant, the tensions to which the textile item T is subjected during the dynamic use could lead to an excessive thinning of the fabric and an undesirable aesthetic effect of transparency in some areas. In this sense, the presence of areas with increased coverage factor allows to improve the aesthetic performance, the wearability and the comfort of use of the textile item T with respect to the known solutions. In other embodiments not shown, the textile item T can represent a garment for an upper portion of the body of the end user, wherein the first frustoconical portion 3 of the tubular textile item 100 represents a first portion of sleeve of the textile item T whereas the second frustoconical portion 4 of the tubular textile item represents a second portion of the sleeve, opposed to the first portion of the sleeve. By way of example, the textile item T can be a knitted fabric wherein the item 100 is configured to realize the portions of the sleeves and the upper portion of the waist and wherein one or more second textile items can be applied for constituting, for example, the lower portion of the waist and / or the collar and / or a hood.

[0168] Advantages of the invention

[0169] The present invention achieves significant advantages.

[0170] As emerges from what has been extensively described above, the process for realizing the tubular textile item 100 and the realizing method of the textile item T according to the present description allow to overcome the drawbacks of solutions known in the field of realization of textile items starting from tubular textile items produced by means of circular textile machines.

[0171] In particular, the process according to the present description allows to obtain in a particularly simple way the tubular textile item 100 having at least two frustoconical portions, specifically at least one first frustoconical portion 3 having a diameter increasing in a variable way followed by at least one second frustoconical portion 4 having a diameter decreasing in a variable way. It should be noted which the process according to the present invention allows to obtain, within the same tubular textile item, at least two variations of the diameter in an opposite direction, i.e. a first increase of the diameter in the first frustoconical portion 3 and a subsequent decrease of the diameter in the second frustoconical portion 4.

[0172] Furthermore, the process according to the present description allows to obtain the first frustoconical portion 3 and the second frustoconical portion 4 without requiring any cutting or sewing operation. In fact, the process of production of the tubular textile item 100 provides that the first frustoconical portion 3 and the second frustoconical portion 4 are formed directly during the production of the knitted fabric by means of the circular knitting machine, without the need for any cutting operation. On the contrary, as shown in the starting section of the present document, the known solutions provide for the creation of tubulars which are subsequently subjected to cutting and sewing operations to obtain at least two frustoconical portions suitable for representing certain structural and / or functional portions of the textile item to be realized, for example the portions of the legs of a garment for the lower part of the body of the wearer.

[0173] In particular, thanks to the absence of cutting and shaping operations, the process according to the present invention allows to minimize or eliminate the waste material generated during the realization of the textile item T. In fact, the tubular textile item 100 is realized in such a way that it is used substantially in its entirety in the realization of the textile item T, without generating any waste textile material. Furthermore, the process for realizing the tubular textile item 100 results repeatable with substantially no variations in quality. Specifically, by not requiring cutting and sewing operations for realizing the frustoconical portions of the tubular textile item coming out of the knitting machine, the process minimizes the possibility that defects and imperfections are present which affect the quality of the textile item T to be realized.

[0174] The almost total absence of seams in correspondence of the frustoconical portions of the tubular textile item 100 allows to obtain a textile item T with improved aesthetic and / or comfort and / or wearability properties. Specifically, the process according to the present invention allows to vary at will the diameter of the first frustoconical portion 3 and of the second frustoconical portion 4 by means of simple design increasing and decreasing operations. This allows, for example, to appropriately adjust the item to the shape of the legs of the wearer.

[0175] In addition, the definition of a portion of increases and the definition of a portion of decreases allow to obtain a substantially uniform knitted fabric density along the entire longitudinal development of the tubular textile item 100 from the first end 1 to the second end 2. Conversely, in solutions known in the art, increases and decreases of the diameter along the longitudinal development of the tubular item itself could be obtained by referring to different knitted fabric structures or by using yarns with different characteristics (e.g., different tensions and / or elasticity), with obvious repercussions on the aesthetic appearance of the textile item T obtained, which necessarily presented an insufficient covering factor in the areas subjected to greater dynamic stress.

[0176] The advantages of the process for realizing the tubular textile item 100 also have an impact on the realizing method of the textile item T, with the latter which is at least partially composed by the tubular textile item 100 itself. Specifically, the realizing method results particularly easy to implement and repeatable without substantial variations in the quality of the final textile item T.

[0177] Specifically, the realizing method of the textile item T provides for a reduction in cutting and sewing operations. In embodiments wherein the textile item is a garment, the realizing method can also provide for a single cutting operation, to generate an opening suitable for receiving a portion of the wearer's body, possibly followed by a sewing operation, for applying a second textile item suitable for defining a further portion of the textile item T.

Claims

CLAIMS1. Process for realizing a tubular textile item (100), through a circular weft knitting machine, destined to constitute at least one portion of a textile item (T), in particular a garment; said process comprising at least the steps of: arranging a circular knitting machine of the seamless type having at least one feed or fall and a needleholding organ supporting a plurality of needles, defining a circular needle bed arranged along a circumference and configured to form knitted fabric with at least one yarn fed from said at least one feed; said needle-holding organ being rotatable relative to said at least one feed; each needle of said plurality of needles being selectively configurable at least in an active configuration, wherein said needle receives or retains said at least one yarn in correspondence of said at least one feed, and an inactive configuration, wherein said needle does not receive said at least one yarn in correspondence of said at least one feed; a ratio between the number of needles in an active configuration and the size of said circular needle-bed defining the fineness of said circular knitting machine; programming said circular knitting machine so as to define said tubular textile item (100) to be realized from a first open end (1), defining a first opening (A1), up to a second open end (2), defining a second opening (A2); said tubular textile item (100) extending longitudinally with continuity between said first end (1) and said second end (2) and being composed by a plurality of successive stitch rows; producing knitted fabric with said circular knitting machine for realizing said tubular textile item (100), according to said step of programming; wherein said step of programming said circular knitting machine comprises at least the following steps: defining a starting number of needles of said plurality of needles in said active configuration, said starting number of needles defining a starting fineness (Fstart); defining a final number of needles of said plurality of needles in said active configuration, said final number of needles defining an ending fineness (Fend); defining a target number of needles of said plurality of needles in said active configuration; said target number of needles being greater than said starting number of needles and said final number of needles, said target number of needles being less than or equal to the number of needles of said plurality of needles and defining a maximum fineness (Fmax); defining at least one portion of increases, interposed between said first end (1) and said second end (2) and constituted by a first plurality of successive stitch rows (R1 -R2) from a first row (R1), formed by said starting number of needles, up to a second row (R2), formed by said target number of needles; said portion of increases determining a first frustoconical portion (3) of said tubular textile item (100) having an increasing diameter from said first row (R1) to said second row (R2);defining at least one portion of decreases, interposed between said portion of increases (3) and said second end (2) and constituted by a second plurality of successive stitch rows (R3-R4) from a third row (R3), formed by said target number of needles, up to a third row (R4), formed by said final number of needles; said portion of decreases determining a second frustoconical portion (4) of said tubular textile item (100) having a decreasing diameter from said third row (R3) to said fourth row (R4).

2. Process according to claim 1 , wherein said step of arranging a circular textile machine provides for arranging a circular textile machine of single-bed type; and / or wherein said step of arranging a circular textile machine provides that said circular textile machine comprises a unique needle-holding organ; and / or wherein said starting number of needles coincides with said final number of needles; and / or wherein said target number of needles is less than or equal to the number of needles of said plurality of needles of the needle-holding organ; and / or wherein said target number of needles is equal to at least twice as much as said starting number of needles; and / or wherein said target number of needles is equal to at least twice as much as said final number of needles.

3. Process according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said step of defining a portion of increases provides that, in at least one transition between a pair of consecutive rows of said first plurality of rows (R1 -R2), at least one needle of said plurality of needles is brought from said inactive configuration to said active configuration; said passage of at least one needle from said inactive configuration to said active configuration determining an increasing operation (31 , 32, 33); and / or wherein said step of defining a portion of decreases provides that, in at least one transition between a pair of consecutive rows of said second plurality of rows (R3-R4), at least one needle of said plurality of needles is brought from said active configuration to said inactive configuration; said passage of at least one needle from said active configuration to said inactive configuration determining a decreasing operation (41 , 42, 43).

4. Process according to the preceding claim, wherein said increasing operation (31 , 32, 33) provides an increase of said fineness in said transition between a pair of consecutive rows of said first plurality of rows (R1 -R2); and / or wherein said increasing operation (31 , 32, 33) provides that a second row of said pair of consecutive rows is composed by a number of knitting stitches greater with respect to a number of knitting stitches which compose a first row of said pair of consecutive rows; and / or wherein said decreasing operation (41 , 42, 43) provides for a decrease of said fineness in said transition between a pair of consecutive rows of said second plurality of rows (R3-R4); and / or wherein said decreasing operation (41 , 42, 43) provides that a second row of said pair of consecutive rows is composed by a number of knitting stitches lower with respect to a number of knitting stitches which compose a first row of said pair of consecutive rows.

5. Process according to claim 3 or 4, wherein said increasing operation (31 , 32, 33) provides that said at least one needle brought from said inactive configuration to said active configuration receives said at least one yarn starting from said second row of said pair of consecutive rows; and / or wherein said decreasing operation (41 ,42, 43) provides that said at least one needle brought from said active configuration to said inactive configuration does not receive said at least one yarn starting from said second row of said pair of consecutive rows, said decreasing operation (41 , 42, 43) providing for a transfer of knitting stitch, from said at least one needle brought from said active configuration to said inactive configuration, to an adjacent needle in said circular bed.

6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said step of defining a portion of increases provides that said first plurality of rows (R1 -R2) is formed by a number of needles in active configuration that varies in an increasing monotonic way from said starting number of needles in correspondence at least of said first row (R1) to said target number of needles in correspondence at least of said second row (R2); and / or wherein said step of defining a portion of decreases provides that said second plurality of rows (R3-R4) is formed by a number of needles in active configuration that varies in a decreasing monotonic way from said target number of needles in correspondence at least of said third row (R3) to said final number of needles in correspondence at least of said fourth row (R4).

7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said step of programming said circular textile machine comprises, furthermore, a step of defining a starting portion constituted by a starting plurality of successive stitch rows (R0-R1) from a starting row (RO), in correspondence of said first end (1), up to said first row (R1); and / or wherein said starting plurality of rows (R0-R1) is configured to be realized by said starting number of needles; and / or wherein said starting plurality of rows (R0-R1) is configured to be realized by said circular textile machine with said starting fineness (Fstart); and / or wherein said starting plurality of rows (R0- R1) presents a constant number of knitting stitches; and / or wherein said starting portion is configured to determine a first extremal portion (5) of said tubular textile item (100) having constant diameter from said starting row (RO) to said first row (R1); and / or wherein said first extremal portion (5) is configured to constitute a first hem (B1 ), preferably a first single hem or a first double hem, of said textile item (T); and / or wherein said step of programming said circular textile machine comprises, furthermore, a step of defining a final portion constituted by a final plurality of successive stitch rows (R4-R5) from said fourth row (R4) up to a final row (R5), in correspondence of said second end (2); and / or wherein said final plurality of rows (R4-R5) is configured to be realized by said final number of needles; and / or wherein said final plurality of rows (R4-R5) is configured to be realized by said circular textile machine with said final fineness (Fend); and / or wherein said final plurality of rows (R4-R5) presents a constant number of knitting stitches; and / or wherein said final portion is configured to determine a second extremal portion (6) of said tubular textile item (100) having constant diameter from said fourth starting row (R4) to said final row (R5); and / or wherein said second extremal portion (6) is configured to constitute a second hem (B2), preferably a second single hem or a second double hem, of said textile item (T).

8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said step of programming said circular textile machine comprises, furthermore, a step of defining a central portion constituted by a central plurality of successive stitch rows (R2-R3) from said second row (R2) to said third row (R3); and / or wherein said centralplurality of rows (R2-R3) is configured to be realized by said target number of needles; and / or wherein said central plurality of rows (R2-R3) is configured to be realized by said circular textile machine with said maximum fineness (Fmax); and / or wherein said central plurality of rows (R2-R3) can present a constant number of knitting stitches; and / or wherein said central portion is configured to determine an intermediate portion (7) of said tubular textile item (100) which can be realized with constant diameter from said second row (R2) to said third row (R3).

9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, in said active configuration, each needle of said plurality of needles is selectively positionable in at least the following positions:- operating position, or "selection”, wherein said needle is configured to receive said at least one yarn from said at least one feed to form a knitted loop;- non-operating position, or "non-selection”, wherein said needle is configured not to receive but to retain, for at least a row, the knitted loop previously formed and present in the relative head; and / or wherein said step of programming said circular textile machine provides for defining at least one functional zone (Z1 , Z2, Z3, Z4) of said tubular textile item (100) extending for a plurality of consecutive rows, said at least one functional zone (Z1 , Z2, Z3, Z4) being determined by a geometric pattern (M 1 , M2, M3, M4) of needles in said operating position and needles in said non-operating position; and / or wherein said at least one functional zone (Z1 , Z2, Z3, Z4) is configured to determine a shaping of said tubular textile item (100); and / or wherein said plurality of consecutive rows forming said at least one functional zone (Z1 , Z2, Z3, Z4) extends at least in said central plurality of rows (R2-R3).

10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said step of programming said circular textile machine comprises, furthermore, a step of defining at least one cutting line (C1) extending for a plurality of consecutive rows, said at least one cutting line (C1) being configured to represent a portion of said tubular textile item (100) to be subjected to at least one cutting operation for a realization of said textile item (T); and / or wherein said at least one cutting line (C1) is configured to guide said cutting operation following said step of producing knitted fabric with said circular textile machine; and / or wherein said cutting line (C1) is configured to be realized with particular needle selections or with a color yarn different with respect to the remaining portions of said tubular textile item (100).

11. Tubular textile item (100) realized through a process according to any one of the preceding claims.

12. Realizing method of a textile item (T), in particular a garment, said realizing method comprising at least the steps of:- producing at least one tubular textile item (100) by means of a process according to any one of claims 1 to 10;- cutting, preferably along a longitudinal direction, at least one portion of said tubular textile item (100) to create at least one additional opening (A3) adapted to receive in insertion at least one portion of the body of a wearer of said textile item (T).

13. Realizing method according to the preceding claim comprising, furthermore, at least the steps of:- realizing at least one second textile item (200);- applying, preferably by sewing, said at least one second textile item (200) in correspondence of said at least one additional opening (A3); and / or wherein said at least one second textile item (200) is a second tubular textile item extending longitudinally with continuity between an upper end (201) and a lower end (202), said second tubular textile item being configured to be applied, preferably sewn, in correspondence of said lower end (202) to said at least one additional opening (A3) of said tubular textile item (100); and / or wherein said at least one second textile item (200) is a second tubular textile item having substantially constant diameter.

14. Realizing method according to claim 12 or 13 wherein said textile item (T) is a garment for a lower portion of the body of said user; and / or wherein said textile item (T) is a pair of leggings; and / or wherein said textile item (T) is a pair of pants; and / or wherein said first frustoconical portion (3) of said tubular textile item (100) represents a first leg portion of said textile item (T) and wherein said second frustoconical portion (4) of said tubular textile item (100) represents a second leg portion of said textile item (T), opposed to said first leg portion.

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