Cosmetic composition comprising sulfate-based anionic surfactants, conditioning agents and water in a particular content

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, notably for cleansing keratin fibres, comprising a combination of non-oxyalkylenated sulfate-based anionic surfactants and conditioning agents chosen from cationic polymers and / or silicones, with water in a particular content. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably for cleansing and / or washing keratin materials, notably the hair, using said composition.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising sulfate-based anionic surfactants, conditioning agents and water in a particular content

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising particular anionic surfactants, conditioning agents of cationic polymer and / or silicone type, and water in a particular content. The invention also relates to a process for treating, notably washing, keratin materials, notably the hair, using said composition.

[0002] It is known practice to use, for cleansing and / or washing the hair, liquid detergent hair compositions (or shampoos), based essentially on conventional surfactants, which are notably anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric, but generally anionic. These compositions are applied to wet hair and the foam generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the diverse types of soiling initially present on the hair. Among the anionic surfactants that may be used, mention may notably be made of sulfate-based surfactants, such as alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate salts. These surfactants are known to generate an abundant foam, allowing soiling to be readily removed by dispersing it in the water, resulting in a feeling of cleanliness.

[0003] Conventional shampoos are usually in the form of a liquid, thickened to a greater or lesser extent. On account of their liquid texture, these products may have various drawbacks, and may notably prove to be difficult to measure out. The reason for this is that the more liquid they are, the greater their tendency to escape between the fingers, making them difficult to measure out and leading to waste. These products may also escape from their packaging, which is a source of inconvenience to the consumer when these products come into contact with clothing or objects, for example when travelling. Finally, the liquid form of a shampoo is not always practical for consumers, in particular when they need to use a shampoo away from home, for example when travelling, hiking or pursuing other outdoor activities.

[0004] The need for readily transportable shampoos is therefore becoming increasingly acute.

[0005] Solid shampoos have been proposed in bar form, similar to bars of soap; however, these compositions may remain, after use, in a damp or even wet environment, for example in a soap dish filled with water, at the bottom of the shower tray or on the edge of a bath, which may entail difficulties in drying said bar and thus delay its hardening, which is preferable for optimal subsequent use.

[0006] Shampoos have also been proposed in the form of a malleable paste, similar to toothpaste, generally comprising a very low water content, or even totally anhydrous. Most of these new “solid” shampoo formulations have room for improvement. Specifically, in order to modify the texture of these products, it has been proposed, for example, to add thickeners thereto, but the addition of such compounds may be detrimental to the cosmetic effects afforded by the compositions.

[0007] Furthermore, the use of these thicker compositions may require the use of a lot of water, firstly to emulsify the shampoo and obtain an adequate foam, and secondly during rinsing to remove the shampoo and soiling present on the fibres. Now, in many countries where access to water is restricted, the rinsing time and consequently the amount of water required to properly rinse off the product are key indicators of the working qualities of a composition.

[0008] In order to conserve natural resources, and notably water, it is of interest to propose compositions which allow the amount of water required to be reduced, notably during use of the product, in particular for rinsing, but also within the product itself, while preserving the working properties and the cosmetic properties associated with the products.

[0009] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing towards meeting the global challenges. It thus proves essential to propose more sustainable compositions, thereby enabling these environmental challenges to be met. In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while at the same time reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0010] Thus, there is a real need to provide a cosmetic composition comprising a lower water content, having good detergent power with suitable working properties, and imparting good cosmetic properties to the hair.

[0011] It was thus discovered that a composition as defined hereinbelow allowed the previously disclosed objectives to be achieved.

[0012] It is thus described a cosmetic composition comprising one or more non-oxyalkylenated sulfate-based anionic surfactants, water in a total content of between 20% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and one or more conditioning agents chosen from cationic polymers, silicones and also mixtures thereof.

[0013] One subject of the present invention is notably a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0014] - one or more non-oxyalkylenated sulfate-based anionic surfactants, the total content of non-oxyalkylenated sulfate anionic surfactants ranging from 25% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0015] - water in a total content of between 20% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0016] - one or more conditioning agents chosen from cationic polymers, silicones and also mixtures thereof.

[0017] The composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a paste, of semi-solid consistency; it may also be referred to as a pasty solid type composition.

[0018] Preferably, the composition is malleable; the term malleable means that the composition is advantageously in the form of a paste which can be deformed or shaped under pressure, for example under the pressure of the user's fingers; doing so makes it possible notably to apply the composition more easily to the hair.

[0019] This consistency notably allows the compositions according to the invention to be packaged advantageously in tubes or in jars.

[0020] Advantageously, when the composition is in the form of a preferably malleable pasty solid, this allows a composition to be obtained that is easy to handle and to measure out, and easier to apply; it is possible to take up only the desired and optimum amount for cleansing and caring for the hair, thus avoiding wastage.

[0021] The composition according to the invention has the advantage of dissolving rapidly on contact with water and of producing a suitable amount of good quality foam. The foam thus obtained can be rinsed off quickly while at the same time minimizing the amount of unpleasant residue left on the keratin fibres. Moreover, the foam obtained is particularly creamy.

[0022] In addition, after application, the composition gives the hair good cosmetic properties, notably in terms of conditioning, and notably suppleness, smooth feel, softness and disentangling.

[0023] The compositions according to the invention may advantageously be characterized by their dynamic viscosity, at a shear rate of 0.1 s-1.

[0024] The shear rate is also referred to in the literature as the rate gradient.

[0025] Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention have a viscosity, measured at 25°C, 1 atm, for a shear rate of 0.1 s-1, of greater than or equal to 200 Pa.s (200 000 mPa.s), notably between 250 and 900 Pa.s (250 000 and 900 000 mPa.s), better still between 300 and 800 Pa.s, even better still between 350 and 700 Pa.s, preferentially between 370 and 650 Pa.s, very preferentially between 420 and 600 Pa.s, and even better still between 450 and 550 Pa.s.

[0026] In the context of the invention, the viscosity is determined at 25°C, 1 atm (1.013×105Pa) using an Anton-Paar® MCR-502 rotary rheometer, fitted with an air Peltier element to regulate the temperature (at 25°C). A plate / plate geometry (25 mm diameter, steel sandblasted to 5 μm) was used with a gap of 0.4 mm.

[0027] Flow curve: shear rate sweep, between 0.01 and 1000 s-1, over about 30 points, in steady state.

[0028] In the present description, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0029] - the term “at least one” is equivalent to the term “one or more” and can be replaced therewith;

[0030] - the term “between” is equivalent to the term “ranging from” and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included;

[0031] - the term “keratin materials” denotes keratin fibres, in particular the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the skin, the nails, the mucous membranes or the scalp;

[0032] - according to the present patent application, the term “keratin fibres” denotes human keratin fibres and more particularly the hair.Anionic surfactants

[0033] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-oxyalkylenated sulfate (or sulfate-based) anionic surfactants.

[0034] The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

[0035] In the present description, a species is termed as being “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

[0036] In a manner knownper se, anionic surfactants may comprise sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) groups (or functions), alone or as a mixture.

[0037] For the purposes of the present invention the term “sulfate anionic surfactant” means an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3-), but not comprising a carboxylate function or a sulfonate function.

[0038] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts, alkaline-earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts.

[0039] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0040] Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

[0041] The composition according to the invention thus comprises one or more non-oxyalkylenated sulfate-based anionic surfactants, i.e. surfactants not comprising any alkylene oxide units, notably not comprising any ethylene oxide units or propylene oxide units.

[0042] The non-oxyalkylenated sulfate-based anionic surfactants may be chosen, alone or as mixtures, from alkyl sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, better still from 10 to 20 or even from 10 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0043] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more non-oxyalkylenated sulfate anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20 or even C10-C16 alkyl sulfates, and also salts thereof; said salts being chosen in particular from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts, preferably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts.

[0044] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-oxyalkylenated sulfate anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts of lauryl sulfate, such as sodium lauryl sulfate.

[0045] Advantageously, the total content of non-oxyalkylenated sulfate anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention may range from 25% to 40% by weight, preferentially from 30% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Better still, the total content of non-oxyalkylenated anionic sulfate surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16 alkyl sulfates, and also salts thereof; said salts being chosen in particular from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts, preferably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, in the composition according to the invention may range from 25% to 40% by weight, preferentially from 30% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] The composition according to the invention may also optionally comprise one or more oxyalkylenated sulfate anionic surfactants, i.e. surfactants comprising one or more alkylene oxide units, notably ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; preferably one or more ethylene oxide units only.

[0048] Advantageously, thus, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-oxyalkylenated sulfate anionic surfactants, and one or more oxyalkylenated sulfate anionic surfactants.

[0049] The oxyalkylenated sulfate-based anionic surfactants may be chosen, alone or as mixtures, from alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, and also salts thereof; the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, better still from 10 to 20 or even from 10 to 16 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds being (poly)oxyalkylenated, notably (poly)oxyethylenated and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0050] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more oxyalkylenated sulfate anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from alkyl ether sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20 or even C10-C16 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and also salts thereof; said salts being chosen in particular from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.

[0051] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of oxyalkylenated sulfate anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 38% by weight, preferentially from 1.5% to 36% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Most particularly, this content may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] Better still, the total content of oxyalkylenated sulfate anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from alkyl ether sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16 alkyl ether sulfates, and also salts thereof; said salts being chosen in particular from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts, preferably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 38% by weight, preferentially from 1.5% to 36% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Most particularly, this content may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more oxyalkylenated sulfate anionic surfactants, in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] Advantageously, the composition may comprise:

[0055] - one or more sulfate anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20 or even C10-C16 alkyl sulfates, and also salts thereof; and

[0056] - one or more sulfate anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from alkyl ether sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and also salts thereof;

[0057] said salts being chosen in particular from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.

[0058] Preferably in this case, the weight ratio between the total content of alkyl sulfate surfactants and the total content of alkyl ether sulfate surfactants is preferably greater than or equal to 1, better still greater than or equal to 1.5, even better still greater than or equal to 5, and preferentially greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, this weight ratio ranges from 1.5 to 30, better still from 5 to 20, preferentially from 10 to 15.

[0059] The composition according to the invention may also optionally comprise one or more sulfonate anionic surfactants.

[0060] It is understood in the present description that the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3–), and may also optionally comprise one or more sulfate and / or carboxylate functions.

[0061] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt. Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts. Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

[0062] The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used may be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, N-acyltaurates, alkylsulfolaurates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylisethionates; and also the salts of these compounds;

[0063] the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated and then preferably include from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0064] Preferably, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0065] - C6-C24and notably C12-C20olefin sulfonates;

[0066] - C6-C24and notably C12-C20alkyl sulfosuccinates, notably lauryl sulfosuccinates;

[0067] - C6-C24and notably C12-C20alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

[0068] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates and preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates;

[0069] - C6-C24and notably C12-C20alkylsulfoacetates;

[0070] in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0071] Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0072] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of sulfonate anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention ranges from 3% to 20% by weight, better still from 5% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] Better still, when they are present, the total content of sulfonate anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohols, in the composition according to the invention, may range from 3% to 20% by weight, better still from 5% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] The composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more anionic surfactants other than the sulfate-based and sulfonate surfactants described above. Preferably, this or these additional anionic surfactants are chosen from carboxylate (or carboxylic) anionic surfactants.

[0075] It is understood in the present description that carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-), and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any sulfonate functions.

[0076] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt. Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts. Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

[0077] The anionic carboxylic surfactants that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds;

[0078] the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated and then preferably include from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0079] Use may also be made of C6-C24alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.

[0080] Mention may be made in particular of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those including from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups, and notably those of formula (1):

[0081] R1–(OC2H4)n–OCH2COOA (1)

[0082] in which:

[0083] - R1represents a linear or branched C6-C24alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C8-C9)alkylphenyl radical, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2denoting a linear or branched C9-C21alkyl or alkenyl radical; preferably, R1is a C8-C20and preferably C8-C18alkyl radical, and “aryl” preferably denotes phenyl;

[0084] - n is an integer or decimal number (mean value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,

[0085] - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

[0086] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (1) in which:

[0087] - R1denotes a C12-C14alkyl, cocoyl, lauroyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,

[0088] - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

[0089] - n ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

[0090] Even more preferentially, use is made of the compounds of formula (1) in which R1denotes a C12alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.

[0091] Preferentially, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0092] - acyl glutamates, notably C6-C24or even C12-C20acyl glutamates, such as stearoyl glutamates and cocoyl glutamates, and in particular disodium cocoyl glutamate and disodium stearoyl glutamate;

[0093] - acyl sarcosinates, notably C6-C24or even C12-C20acyl sarcosinates, such as palmitoyl sarcosinates, lauroyl sarcosinates and cocoyl sarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate;

[0094] - acyl lactylates, notably C12-C28or even C14-C24acyl lactylates, such as behenoyl lactylates and lauroyl lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate;

[0095] - C6-C24and notably C12-C20acylglycinates;

[0096] - (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, and notably (C12-C20)alkyl ether carboxylates;

[0097] - polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those including from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0098] in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0099] Advantageously, the total content of anionic surfactants (including sulfate-based surfactants, and the optional additional surfactants, notably sulfonates and carboxylates) in the composition according to the invention ranges from 35% to 65% by weight, better still from 38% to 60% by weight, even better still from 40% to 58% by weight, preferentially from 42% to 55% by weight, even more preferentially from 45% to 53% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants

[0100] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

[0101] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may notably be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain including from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0102] Among the optionally quaternized derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the respective formulae (3) and (4) below:

[0103] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X-(3)

[0104] in which:

[0105] - Rarepresents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut kernel oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0106] - Rbrepresents a β-hydroxyethyl group; and

[0107] - Rcrepresents a carboxymethyl group;

[0108] - M+represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and

[0109] - X-represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+and X-are absent;

[0110] Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (4)

[0111] in which:

[0112] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX’;

[0113] - B’ represents the group -(CH2)zY’, with z = 1 or 2;

[0114] - X’ represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;

[0115] - Y’ represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z’;

[0116] - Z’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0117] - Ra’represents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra’-COOH which is preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil, an alkyl group, notably a C17alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17group.

[0118] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0119] By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.

[0120] Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (5):

[0121] Ra''-NHCH(Y’’)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n'-N(Rd)(Re) (5)

[0122] in which:

[0123] - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ” or -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z”;

[0124] - Rdand Re, independently of each other, represent a C1to C4alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;

[0125] - Z’’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0126] - Ra''represents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra''-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil;

[0127] - n and n’ denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0128] Among the compounds of formula (5), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.

[0129] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may also notably be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines.

[0130] Preferably, when they are present, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines, the compounds of formula (3) and the compounds of formula (4) as defined previously.

[0131] Better still, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, preferentially one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants chosen from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0133] When they are present, the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may preferably range from 1% to 18% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, better still from 4% to 13% by weight and even better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] When they are present, the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) chosen, alone or as mixtures, from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines, may preferably range from 1% to 18% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, better still from 4% to 13% by weight and even better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Conditioning agents

[0135] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more conditioning agents, chosen from cationic polymers, silicones, and also mixtures thereof. Thus, the composition may comprise one or more cationic polymers only; or one or more silicones only; or else one or more cationic polymers and one or more silicones.

[0136] Preferably, it comprises one or more cationic polymers, and may also comprise one or more silicones.

[0137] The term “cationic polymer” means any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0138] The cationic polymers are not silicone-based (they do not comprise any silicon atoms).

[0139] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better still of less than or equal to 4 meq / g. The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar proportion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0140] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5×106approximately and preferably between 103and 3×106approximately.

[0141] Among the cationic polymers that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of the following polymers:

[0142] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units having the following formulae:

[0143] in which:

[0144] - R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3radical;

[0145] - A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0146] - R4, R5and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0147] - R1and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

[0148] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

[0149] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

[0150] Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:

[0151] - copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,

[0152] - copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,

[0153] - the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

[0154] - quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937,

[0155] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0156] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP;

[0157] - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP;

[0158] - preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.

[0159] (2) cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.

[0160] Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0161] The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1 492 597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that has reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

[0162] Mention may notably be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol.

[0163] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent US 4 131 576; mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. Mention may be made most particularly of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, the quaternizing agent notably possibly being diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and most particularly hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0164] Among the commercial products corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.

[0165] A particularly preferred cationic cellulose that may notably be mentioned is the polymer having the INCI name Polyquaternium-10.

[0166] The cationic galactomannan gums are notably described in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, notably those comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, notably trimethylammonium. Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride).

[0167] Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums bear cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may most particularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.

[0168] Mention may be made in particular of the products having the INCI names Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Solvay.

[0169] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of cationic derivatives of cassia gum, notably those including quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product having the INCI name Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0170] (3) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

[0171] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they include one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized.

[0172] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

[0173] (6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer.

[0174] (7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers including, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):

[0175] in which

[0176] - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;

[0177] - R12denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

[0178] - R10and R11, independently of each other, denote a C1-C6alkyl group, a C1-C5hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10and R11may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10and R11, independently of each other, preferably denote a C1-C4alkyl group;

[0179] - Y-is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

[0180] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride) (INCI name Polyquaternium-6) for example sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide (INCI name Polyquaternium-7), notably sold under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR.

[0181] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:

[0182] in which:

[0183] - R13, R14, R15and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals;

[0184] or else R13, R14, R15and R16, together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom;

[0185] or else R13, R14, R15and R16represent a linear or branched C1-C6alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group, where R17is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

[0186] - A1and B1represent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

[0187] - X-denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

[0188] it being understood that A1, R13and R15can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;

[0189] in addition, if A1denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:

[0190] a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)-, in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

[0191] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative;

[0192] c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;

[0193] d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0194] Preferably, X-is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.

[0195] Mention may be made more particularly of polymers which are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula:

[0196] in which R1, R2, R3and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[0197] A particularly preferred compound is the one for which R1, R2, R3and R4represent a methyl radical, n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

[0198] (9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula:

[0199] in which:

[0200] - R18, R19, R20and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20and R21do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

[0201] - r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

[0202] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

[0203] - X-denotes an anion such as a halide,

[0204] - A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0205] Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.

[0206] (10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.

[0207] (11) polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.

[0208] (12) polymers including in their structure:

[0209] (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:

[0210] (b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:

[0211] In other words, these polymers may notably be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

[0212] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).

[0213] These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.

[0214] The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g / mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g / mol.

[0215] The polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF; for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

[0216] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic polymers chosen, alone or as a mixture, from

[0217] - polymers of family (7) and in particular homopolymers or copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride), notably copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide such as Polyquaternium-7;

[0218] - cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses such as Polyquaternium-10, and cationic galactomannan gums, notably cationic guar gums.

[0219] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic polysaccharides, notably chosen from cationic celluloses such as Polyquaternium-10, and cationic galactomannan gums, notably cationic guar gums; better still, cationic galactomannan gums, notably cationic guar gums.

[0220] When it comprises one or more cationic polymers as conditioning agent, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 4% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, or even from 1% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0221] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) chosen from polymers of the family (7) and cationic polysaccharides, in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 4% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, or even from 1% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0222] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) chosen from cationic galactomannan gums, notably cationic guar gums, in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 4% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, or even from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0223] The composition according to the invention may also comprise, as conditioning agent, one or more silicones, which may in particular be chosen from amino silicones, non-amino silicones and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition comprises one or more amino silicones.

[0224] The composition according to the invention may thus comprise one or more non-amino silicones, which may be solid or liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), and volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, the non-amino silicones are chosen from non-volatile liquid silicones.

[0225] The non-amino silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they may be in oil, wax, resin or gum form; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0226] Silicones are notably described in detail in Walter Noll’sChemistry and Technology of Silicones(1968), Academic Press.

[0227] The volatile silicones may be chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure, i atm) and in particular from:

[0228] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as

[0229] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). Mention may be made of the products sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 5 by Rhodia;

[0230] - cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type having the chemical structure:

[0231] Mention may be made of Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide;

[0232] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with silicon-based organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of oxy-1,1’-bis(2,2,2’,2’,3,3’-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

[0233] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10-6m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0234] Other silicones belonging to this category are described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pages 27-32 - Todd & ByersVolatile silicone fluids for cosmetics; mention may be made of the product sold under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone.

[0235] Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also non-amino organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes including in their structure one or more non-amino organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups.

[0236] The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, notably polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0237] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes including:

[0238] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups optionally including C6-C24alkyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet®L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from the company Union Carbide; or alternatively (C12)alkylmethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2-5200;

[0239] - thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 from Genesee;

[0240] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax®2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt;

[0241] - hydroxylated groups, for instance polyorganosiloxanes bearing a hydroxyalkyl function;

[0242] - acyloxyalkyl groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4 957 732;

[0243] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as described, for example, in EP 186 507, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; or else of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil®S201 and Abil®S255.

[0244] The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone). Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products:

[0245] - the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0246] - the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;

[0247] - the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm2 / s;

[0248] - the Viscasil® oils from Momentive Performance Materials and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from Momentive Performance Materials.

[0249] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing dimethylsilanol end groups (CTFA: dimethiconol), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

[0250] In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(C1-C20)dialkylsiloxanes.

[0251] Products that may be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:

[0252] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane with a hydroxy-terminated chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2-1401 sold by the company Dow Corning.

[0253] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1×10-5to 5×10-2m2 / s at 25°C.

[0254] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names:

[0255] - the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;

[0256] - the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

[0257] - the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;

[0258] - the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

[0259] - the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000;

[0260] - certain oils of the SF series from Momentive Performance Materials, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0261] The non-amino silicones that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone).

[0262] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more amino silicones.

[0263] The term “amino silicone” denotes any silicone including at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0264] The amino silicones that may be used according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile and cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5 × 10-6to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example from 1 × 10-5to 1 m2 / s. Preferably, the additional amino silicones are chosen from silicones that are non-volatile liquids (25°C, 1 atm).

[0265] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen, alone or as mixtures, from the following compounds:

[0266] A) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (Ia):

[0267] in which x’ and y’ are integers such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500 000 g / mol;

[0268] B) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (IIa):

[0269] R’aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR’2-b)m-O-SiG3-a'-R’a'(IIa)

[0270] in which:

[0271] - G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH, C1-C8alkyl, for example methyl, or C1-C8alkoxy, for example methoxy, group;

[0272] - a and a’, which may be identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, with the proviso that at least one from among a and a' is equal to zero,

[0273] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0274] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10; and

[0275] - R’, which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups: -NR’’-Q-N(R’’)2, -N(R’’)2, -N+(R’’)3A-, -N+H(R’’)2A-, -N+H2(R’’) A-, -NR’’-Q-N+(R’’)H2A-, -NR’’-Q-N+(R’’)2H A-and -NR’’-Q-N+(R’’)3A-, in which R’’, which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C1-C20alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula CrH2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A-represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, notably a halide, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0276] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (IIa) may be chosen from:

[0277] (i) the “trimethylsilyl amodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula (III):

[0278] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better still from 50 to 150; n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149 and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10;

[0279] (ii) the silicones of formula (IV) below:

[0280] in which:

[0281] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and notably from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0282] - R1, R2and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1to R3denoting an alkoxy radical.

[0283] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0284] The hydroxy / alkoxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

[0285] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g / mol;

[0286] (iii) the silicones of formula (V) below:

[0287] in which:

[0288] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, notably from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0289] - R1and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1or R2denoting an alkoxy radical.

[0290] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0291] The hydroxy / alkoxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

[0292] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200 000 g / mol, more preferentially from 5000 to 100 000 g / mol and in particular from 10 000 to 50 000 g / mol.

[0293] The commercial products comprising silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones, the structure of which is different from formula (IV) or (V). A product containing amino silicones of structure (IV) is sold by the company Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652. A product containing amino silicones of structure (V) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing amino silicones of structure (XIV) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

[0294] When these amino silicones are used, a particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, notably as amino silicones of formula (V), use is made of microemulsions of which the mean particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, use may be made according to the invention of the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (V) sold under the names Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company Wacker;

[0295] (iv) the silicones of formula (VI) below:

[0296] in which:

[0297] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10; and

[0298] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0299] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g / mol.

[0300] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Corning;

[0301] (v) the silicones of formula (VII) below:

[0302] in which:

[0303] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10; and

[0304] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0305] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200 000 g / mol.

[0306] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning;

[0307] C) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (VIII):

[0308] in which:

[0309] - R5represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18alkyl or C2-C18alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

[0310] - R6represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a C1-C18alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-C8, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

[0311] - Q-is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate;

[0312] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

[0313] and

[0314] - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50;

[0315] D) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX):

[0316] in which:

[0317] - R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18alkyl radical, a C2-C18alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0318] - R6represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a C1-C18alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-C8, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

[0319] - R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18alkyl radical, a C2-C18alkenyl radical or a radical -R6-NHCOR7;

[0320] - X-is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate; and

[0321] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.

[0322] These silicones are for example described in patent application EP-A-0 530 974; mention may in particular be made of the silicone having the INCI name: Quaternium 80.

[0323] Silicones falling within this category are the silicones sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil Quat 3270, Abil Quat 3272 and Abil Quat 3474;

[0324] E) the amino silicones of formula (X):

[0325] in which:

[0326] - R1, R2, R3and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

[0327] - R5denotes a C1-C4alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

[0328] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0329] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0330] - x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0331] F) the multiblock polyoxyalkylene amino silicones, of (AB)ntype, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylene block including at least one amine group.

[0332] Said silicones are preferably formed from repeating units having the following general formulae:

[0333] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R’’)-R’-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R’-N(H)-R-] or

[0334] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R’’)-R’-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-]

[0335] in which:

[0336] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0337] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;

[0338] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0339] - R’’ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0340] - R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, which may be identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R denote a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and

[0341] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R’, which may be identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R’ denote -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0342] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.

[0343] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0344] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000 g / mol.

[0345] Mention may notably be made of the silicones sold under the name Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive;

[0346] G) the amino silicones of formulae (XI) and (XII):

[0347] in which:

[0348] - R, R’ and R’’, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

[0349] - A denotes a C3alkylene radical; and

[0350] - m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000;

[0351] in which:

[0352] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferentially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

[0353] - R1and R2, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0354] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0355] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Mention may be made in particular of the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[0356] Preferably, R1and R2are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, R1and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0357] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII):

[0358] - x ranges from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000;

[0359] - y ranges from 1 to 100;

[0360] - A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and notably 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and

[0361] - R1and R2independently are saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; notably chosen from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, R1and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0362] A silicone of formula (XII) that is preferred is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may be made in particular of the amino silicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by Momentive;

[0363] H) polysiloxanes and notably polydimethylsiloxanes, including primary amine groups at only one chain end or on side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI):

[0364] In formula (XIV), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 1000 and 55 000.

[0365] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XIV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin-Etsu.

[0366] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000.

[0367] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

[0368] In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50 000.

[0369] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI), mention may be made of the aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning.

[0370] The composition according to the invention may also comprise, as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to formula (XVIII) below:

[0371] in which:

[0372] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better still between 50 and 80;

[0373] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better still between 1 and 10 and even better still between 1 and 5;

[0374] - R’ is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0375] - R’’ is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 5 carbon atoms; and

[0376] - R’’’, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals possibly being optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl OH groups.

[0377] Preferably, R’ is a linear or branched, preferably branched, divalent alkylene radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms; notably a -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or –CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical.

[0378] Preferably, R’’ is a linear divalent alkylene radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular a -CH2-CH2- radical.

[0379] Preferably, the radicals R’’’, which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl and octadecyl radicals; preferentially, the radicals R’’’, which may be identical or different, are chosen from saturated linear alkyl radicals containing from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, which are notably C13, C14or C15radicals, alone or as a mixture, and better still represent a mixture of C13, C14and C15radicals. Preferably, the radicals R’’’ are identical.

[0380] Preferentially, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0381] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0382] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0383] - R’’’, which are identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0384] - R’ is a divalent alkylene radical containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0385] - R’’ is a linear divalent alkylene radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0386] Better still, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0387] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0388] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0389] - R’’’, which are identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 13 to 15 carbon atoms;

[0390] - R’ is a -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical, and

[0391] - R’’ is a -(CH2)2- radical.

[0392] A most particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is Bis(C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-Amodimethicone (INCI name). Mention may notably be made of the silicone sold under the name Dowsil 8500 Conditioning Agent by Dow.

[0393] When it comprises one or more silicones, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more silicones chosen, alone or as a mixture, from non-volatile liquid non-amino silicones, and notably polydialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups; and / or non-volatile liquid amino silicones, such as amodimethicones; and also mixtures thereof. Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amodimethicones.

[0394] When it comprises one or more silicones as conditioning agent, the composition according to the invention may comprise the silicone(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still ranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight, preferentially ranging from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0395] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises the silicone(s) chosen, alone or as a mixture, from non-volatile liquid non-amino silicones, and notably polydialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups ; and / or non-volatile liquid amino silicone(s), such as amodimethicones; in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still ranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight, preferentially ranging from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0396] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises the conditioning agent(s) chosen from cationic polymers and silicones in a total content of between 0.5% and 12% by weight, better still between 1.5% and 10% by weight, even better still between 2% and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Thickeners

[0397] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more thickeners, notably chosen from organic thickeners, mineral thickeners and mixtures thereof.

[0398] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more thickeners, better still one or more mineral thickeners.

[0399] The thickener(s) may notably be aqueous-phase thickeners (or hydrophilic thickeners).

[0400] The term “thickener” or “aqueous-phase thickening” refers to a compound which increases by at least 20 cps (20 mPa.s), preferably by at least 50 cps (50 mPa.s), the viscosity of the aqueous phase into which it is introduced at a concentration of 0.05% by weight, the viscosity being measured at 25°C, 1 atm, at a shear rate of 1 s-1(the viscosity may be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, Haake R600 Rheometer or the like).

[0401] The thickener is different from the cationic polymers and surfactants described previously. The thickener is moreover a non-silicone thickener.

[0402] The thickeners according to the invention may be polymeric or non-polymeric; they may be anionic, amphoteric or nonionic, associative or non-associative. They may be organic or mineral. Advantageously, they are mineral.

[0403] Preferably, the thickener(s) may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from clays; associative or non-associative thickening polysaccharides, which are notably nonionic; thickening acrylic polymers, which are notably anionic or nonionic; associative polymers.

[0404] Clays are well-known products which are described, for example, in the publicationMinéralogie des argiles[Mineralogy of Clays], S. Caillère, S. Hénin and M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition, 1982, Masson.

[0405] Clays are (alumino)silicates containing a cation that may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.

[0406] As clays, mention may be made of the optionally modified clays belonging to the following families, alone or as mixtures:

[0407] - the kaolinite family, such as kaolin, nacrites, halloysites, antigorites, berthierines or dickites,

[0408] - the smectite and montmorillonite families, such as bentonites, hectorites (including laponite), saponites, nontronites, beidelites and stevensites;

[0409] - the illite, vermiculite and chlorite families, such as donbassites;

[0410] - the family of fibrous clays, such as sepiolites, attapulgites and paligorskites, and the talc family.

[0411] Preferably, one or more clays chosen from the family of kaolinites, montmorillonites and / or smectites may be used, these clays preferably being unmodified; and in particular chosen from kaolin, saponites, laponites, bentonites, hectorites and stevensites, and also mixtures thereof, preferentially kaolin.

[0412] The clays may be of natural or synthetic (derived from a synthesis) origin. Preferably, the clays used in the composition of the invention are natural clays.

[0413] Clays can be chemically modified with various compounds, such as acrylic acids, polysaccharides (for example carboxymethylcellulose) or organic cations, for example with compounds chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0414] In the context of the present invention, it is preferable to use clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable for keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres.

[0415] Clay mixtures may advantageously be used.

[0416] Preferably, the clay is an unmodified clay.

[0417] The term “unmodified clay” means a natural or synthetic clay which has not been modified in any way whatsoever. For example, when an unmodified clay that is suitable for use in the invention is an unmodified hectorite, it is distinct from hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride.

[0418] The term “modified clay” means sheet silicates whose lipophilicity has been increased, for example by ion exchange reactions with quaternary ammonium salts, preferably quaternary ammonium chlorides.

[0419] As natural clays, mention may be made of green clays, notably those rich in illite; clays rich in montmorillonite, known under the name Fuller's earth, or such as bentonites, or else white clays rich in kaolinite. As bentonites, mention may notably be made of those sold under the names Bentone 38 VCG, Bentone Gel CAO V, Bentone 27 V and Bentone Gel MIO V by Elementis.

[0420] Montmorillonites and smectites are hydrated aluminium and / or magnesium silicates. Examples that may be mentioned include the montmorillonite sold under the name Gel White H by Rockwood Additives and the purified smectite sold under the name Veegum Granules by Vanderbilt. Mention may also be made of the montmorillonite sold under the name Kunipia G4 by Kunimine and the sepiolite Pangel S9 sold by Tolsa.

[0421] Examples of kaolinites that may be mentioned include the kaolins sold under the names Coslin C 100 by BASF or Kaolin Supreme by Imerys.

[0422] Talcs are hydrated magnesium silicates generally comprising aluminium silicate. The crystal structure of talc consists of repeated layers of a sandwich of brucite between layers of silica. Examples that may be mentioned include micronized magnesium silicate with a particle size of 5 microns, sold under the name Micro Ace P3 by Nippon Talc, or talcs sold under the names Rose Talc and Talc SG-2000 by Nippon Talc, J 68 BC by US Cosmetics (Miyoshi), Luzenac 00 and Luzenac Pharma M by Luzenac and Talc JA-46R by Asada Milling.

[0423] Synthetic saponite, notably the product sold by Kunimine under the name Sumecton, may be mentioned as a saponite, which belongs to the montmorillonite family.

[0424] As a synthetic laponite, mention may be made of Laponite XLG, sold by Rockwood.

[0425] The thickener may also be chosen from thickening polysaccharides, which are preferably nonionic, and associative or non-associative, preferably non-associative.

[0426] In the context of the invention, the polysaccharides are also referred to as polymers bearing sugar units. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which includes at least 4 carbon atoms. The sugar units may be optionally modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration. The sugar units of the nonionic polysaccharides are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; and fructose.

[0427] Among the thickening polysaccharides that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of native gums such as:

[0428] a) tree or shrub exudates, such as acacia gum (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid), ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid), karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid), gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);

[0429] b) gums derived from algae, such as agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate);

[0430] c) gums derived from seeds or tubers such as guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);

[0431] d) microbial gums such as xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);

[0432] e) plant extracts such as cellulose (glucose polymer), starch (glucose polymer) and inulin.

[0433] These polymers may be physically or chemically modified. A physical treatment that may be mentioned is the temperature. Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers that may notably be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric. Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.

[0434] The nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with C1-C6(poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0435] Among the C1-C6(poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0436] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0437] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0438] Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.

[0439] The botanical origin of the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0440] The starches may be chemically or physically modified, notably by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

[0441] Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate are preferentially used, for instance the product sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).

[0442] Use may also be made of amphoteric starches as thickeners, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably bonded to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic type. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

[0443] The starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, notably such as corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. Use may also be made of the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0444] Thickeners according to the invention that may also be mentioned include cellulose-based polymers not including a C10-C30fatty chain in their structure.

[0445] The term “cellulose-based polymer” refers to any polysaccharide compound bearing in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via β-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, the cellulose derivatives different from the polymers described below may be anionic, amphoteric or nonionic.

[0446] Thus, the cellulose-based polymers that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.

[0447] Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters are distinguished.

[0448] Among the cellulose esters are mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (for example cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates), and mixed organic / mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulose ether esters, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0449] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers not bearing a C10-C30fatty chain, i.e. “non-associative” cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0450] Among the anionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses and salts thereof. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and the sodium salts thereof.

[0451] As thickening polysaccharides that may be used in the invention, mention may also be made of associative thickening polysaccharides.

[0452] It is recalled that “associative polymers” are polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

[0453] The term “hydrophobic group” means a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0454] Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.

[0455] The associative polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from nonionic associative polysaccharides, preferably from nonionic associative celluloses and nonionic associative galactomannan gums.

[0456] Preferentially, the associative polysaccharides are chosen from:

[0457] (1) celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, preferably from:

[0458] - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8 to C22, for instance the cetylhydroxyethylcellulose sold notably under the reference Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls) sold by the company Ashland, or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by the company Ashland,

[0459] - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol ether alkyl phenol groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) ether of nonyl phenol) sold by the company Amerchol,

[0460] - and mixtures thereof;

[0461] (2) hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain), sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain), sold by the company Rhodia.

[0462] The associative nonionic polysaccharides may advantageously be chosen from celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, preferentially from hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22.

[0463] The thickening polysaccharide(s) may advantageously be chosen from nonionic cellulose ethers free of C8 to C30 fatty chains, guar gums, notably nonionic guar gums, and starches, notably distarch phosphates, and also mixtures thereof.

[0464] As thickeners that may be used, mention may also be made of thickening acrylic polymers, notably nonionic or anionic thickening acrylic polymers; mention may be made in particular of homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid; homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylamide copolymers thereof, alone or as mixtures, said polymers possibly being crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0465] Among the preferably crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers that may be mentioned are those crosslinked with an allyl alcohol ether of the sugar series, for instance the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company Noveon or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by the company 3 VSA. These polymers have the INCI name Carbomer. Mention may also be made of crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers, such as the polymer sold under the name Aqua SF1 by the company Noveon.

[0466] The thickening polymers may also be chosen from crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and the crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof, which are partially or totally neutralized.

[0467] Mention may also be made of associative polymers as thickeners, notably of nonionic, anionic or amphoteric nature.

[0468] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more thickeners chosen, alone or as a mixture, from clays and associative or non-associative, notably nonionic, thickening polysaccharides; better still from clays, nonionic cellulose ethers not containing a C8-C30 fatty chain, guar gums, notably nonionic guar gums, and starches, notably distarch phosphates, and also mixtures thereof; better still from kaolinites and starches, notably starch phosphates; and preferentially kaolin.

[0469] When they are present, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises the thickener(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.15% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Water

[0470] The composition according to the invention also comprises water, in a total content ranging from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0471] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises water in a total content of between 25% and 39% by weight, preferably between 28% and 38% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0472] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6 and preferentially from 4 to 5.5.

[0473] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of anionic surfactants and water such that the weight ratio between the total content of anionic surfactants (sulfate-based and not sulfate-based) on the one hand, and the total water content on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 1, preferably strictly greater than 1, notably greater than or equal to 1.1, better still greater than or equal to 1.2. In particular, this weight ratio may range from 1 to 3, in particular from 1.1 to 2, or even from 1.2 to 1.8 (the limits being included).Other ingredients

[0474] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one or more conventional cosmetic ingredients notably chosen from sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; hair loss counteractants; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; hair-relaxing agents; nacreous and opacifying agents; micas, nacres, glitter flakes; pigments; fillers; fragrances; basifying agents or acidifying agents. A person skilled in the art will take care to select the ingredients included in the composition, and also the amounts thereof, so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0475] The composition according to the invention may advantageously be packaged in any type of hermetically sealed container avoiding any contact with air and allowing its use, such as a jar or a tube; preferably a tube, advantageously made of recyclable aluminium or plastic.

[0476] The composition according to the invention may be prepared in the manner described hereinbelow; the entire process may advantageously be performed at room temperature (25°C).

[0477] step 1: dispersion of any cationic guars in water,

[0478] step 2: addition of any amphoteric surfactants, and then homogenization of the mixture;

[0479] step 3: addition of any preserving agents, pH agents and thickeners, followed by homogenization of the mixture;

[0480] step 4: addition of the starting materials in liquid form, such as the anionic surfactants, any cationic polymers, silicones, fragrances, etc., followed by a step of homogenizing the mixture; and

[0481] step 5: addition of the starting materials in powder form, such as the anionic surfactants, etc., followed by a step of homogenizing the mixture.

[0482] A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment process, preferably for cleansing and / or washing keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined previously.

[0483] Preferably, a step of rinsing the keratin materials, for example with water, is performed after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.

[0484] A step of drying the keratin materials may be provided in the process according to the invention, in particular after the rinsing step, notably using a heating means such as a hair dryer.

[0485] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. In these examples, the amounts are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM), unless otherwise mentioned.Example 1

[0486] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below (in g).

[0487] CompositionFormulation 1InventionSodium lauryl sulfate33.7Sodium laureth sulfate2.5Sodium cocoyl isethionate10.2Cocamidopropyl betaine6Cationic polymers(Cationic guar and / or PQ-7)1.6Amodimethicone2.4Glycol distearate1.2Kaolin0.3Sodium chloride1.1Preserving agents, fragrance, pH agent (pH = 5)qsWaterqs 100(about 38%)

[0488] The composition of Example 1 may be obtained using the following preparation process, performed at room temperature (25°C): dispersion of the cationic guar (sold in solid form) in water; addition of the amphoteric surfactant (sold as an aqueous solution), then mixing; addition of the preserving agents, pH agents and kaolin, then mixing; addition of the starting materials in liquid form (SLES, PQ7, silicone, fragrance), then mixing; and finally addition of the starting materials in powder form (SLS, cocoyl isethionate, NaCl, glycol distearate) followed by a step of homogenization of the final mixture.

[0489] A cosmetic composition is obtained which may advantageously be used for cleansing the hair (as a rinse-out shampoo).

[0490] A small amount of composition can be taken up, for example in the palm of the hand, mixed with water and blended rapidly, thus producing a good-quality foam in an appropriate amount.

[0491] At room temperature, the composition is in the form of a creamy, semi-solid, malleable paste.

[0492] Its viscosity, measured as indicated previously, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 0.1 s-1, is about 432 000 mPa.s for Formulation 1.

[0493] The composition may be packaged in a tube.Example 2

[0494] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention and comparative are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below (in g).

[0495] CompositionFormulation 2InventionFormulation 3ComparativeFormulation 4ComparativeSodium lauryl sulfate33.72045Sodium laureth sulfate2.462.462.46Sodium cocoyl isethionate9.869.869.86Cocamidopropyl betaine5.555.555.55Cocobetaine0.480.480.48Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride0.780.780.78Polyquaternium-70.820.820.82Amodimethicone2.42.42.4Glycol distearate1.21.21.2Sodium chloride1.121.121.12Preserving agents, fragrance, pH agent (pH = 5)qsqsqsWaterqs 100(about 36.7%)qs 100(about 50.4%)qs 100(about 25.37%)

[0496] The compositions may be obtained using the following preparation process, performed at room temperature (25°C): dispersion of the cationic guar (sold in solid form) in water; addition of the amphoteric surfactant (sold as an aqueous solution), then mixing; addition of the preserving agents and pH agents, then mixing; addition of the starting materials in liquid form (SLES, PQ7, silicone, fragrance), then mixing; and finally addition of the starting materials in powder form (SLS, cocoyl isethionate, NaCl, glycol distearate) followed by a step of homogenization of the final mixture.

[0497] Cosmetic compositions are obtained which may be used for cleansing the hair (as a rinse-out shampoo).Stability of formulations 2 and 3

[0498] At room temperature, the formulation 2 is a creamy, semi-solid, malleable paste.

[0499] The viscosity, measured as indicated previously, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 0.1 s-1, is about 499 000 mPa.s for Formulation 2. The composition may be packaged in a tube. The cream mixes well in the hand.

[0500] Formulation 3 is a liquid. It is not stable after 24 hours and cannot be used. The comparative composition 3 has distinct phases and a phase shift. It is unstable, unlike composition 2 according to the invention, which comes in the form of a homogeneous, stable, smooth cream.Solubilization properties of formulations 2 and 4

[0501] To assess the solubilization of compositions 2 and 4, five experts quantified on a scale from 0 (poor) to 5 (very good), in a blind test, the stiffness and ease of solubilization in the hands and on the hair, using the following application protocol:

[0502] On a malleable head, 1.5 g of each composition 2 and 4 was applied per half-head. Each formula was mixed on wet hands and then applied to the hair, which was then rinsed.

[0503] The results are detailed in the table below:

[0504] Formulation 2InventionFormulation 4ComparativeExpert 152Expert 252Expert 352Expert 442Expert 552Mean4.82Standard deviation0.450.00

[0505] The results show that formulation 2 improved shampoo solubilization compared with formulation 4.

Claims

Cosmetic composition comprising:- one or more non-oxyalkylenated sulfate-based anionic surfactants, the total content of non-oxyalkylenated sulfate anionic surfactants ranging from 25% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,- water in a total content of between 20% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and- one or more conditioning agents chosen from cationic polymers, silicones and also mixtures thereof.Composition according to Claim 1, having a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25°C, 1 atm, for a shear rate of 0.1 s-1, of greater than or equal to 200 Pa.s (200 000 mPa.s), notably between 250 and 900 Pa.s (250 000 and 900 000 mPa.s), better still between 300 and 800 Pa.s, even better still between 350 and 700 Pa.s, preferentially between 370 and 650 Pa.s, very preferentially between 420 and 600 Pa.s, and even better still between 450 and 550 Pa.s.Composition according to either of the preceding claims, in which the non-oxyalkylenated sulfate-based anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as mixtures, from alkyl sulfates and monoglyceride sulfates, and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, still better from 10 to 20 or even from 10 to 16 carbon atoms; preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16 alkyl sulfates, and also salts thereof; said salts being chosen in particular from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium salts, or amino alcohol salts, preferably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of non-oxyalkylenated sulfate anionic surfactants ranges from 30% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more oxyalkylenated sulfate anionic surfactants; preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from alkyl ether sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20 or even C10-C16 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and also salts thereof; said salts being chosen in particular from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more oxyalkylenated sulfate anionic surfactants, in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more sulfonate anionic surfactants; notably chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, N-acyltaurates, alkylsulfolaurates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylisethionates; and also salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units;better still chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:- C6-C24and notably C12-C20olefin sulfonates;- C6-C24and notably C12-C20alkyl sulfosuccinates, notably lauryl sulfosuccinates;- C6-C24and notably C12-C20alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;- (C6-C24)acylisethionates and preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates;- C6-C24and notably C12-C20alkylsulfoacetates;in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts;preferentially chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of anionic surfactants ranges from 35% to 65% by weight, better still from 38% to 60% by weight, even better still from 40% to 58% by weight, preferentially from 42% to 55% by weight and even more preferentially from 45% to 53% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants notably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:(i) the compounds of formula (3): Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X-in which:- Rarepresents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut kernel oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;- Rbrepresents a β-hydroxyethyl group; and- Rcrepresents a carboxymethyl group;- M+represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and- X-represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+and X-are absent;(ii) the compounds of formula (4): Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (4)in which:- B represents the group -CH2CH2OX’;- B’ represents the group -(CH2)zY’, with z = 1 or 2;- X’ represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;- Y’ represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z’;- Z’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;- Ra’represents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra’-COOH which is preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil, an alkyl group, notably a C17alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17group;(iii) the compounds of formula (5): Ra''-NHCH(Y’’)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n'-N(Rd)(Re)in which:- Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ” or -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z”;- Rdand Re, independently of each other, represent a C1to C4alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;- Z’’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;- Ra''represents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra''-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil;- n and n’ denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3;(iv) (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines;better still chosen from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the conditioning agent is chosen from one or more cationic polymers, notably, alone or as a mixture, from:- homopolymers or copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts, notably copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts and of acrylamide, such as Polyquaternium-7;- cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses such as Polyquaternium-10, and cationic galactomannan gums, notably cationic guar gums.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the cationic polymer(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 50% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 4% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, or even from 1% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the conditioning agent is chosen from one or more silicones, in particular from amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof; better still, alone or as a mixture, from non-volatile liquid non-amino silicones, and notably polydialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups; and / or non-volatile liquid amino silicones, such as amodimethicones; and also mixtures thereof.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the silicone(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still ranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight and preferentially ranging from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of water is between 25% and 39% by weight and preferably between 28% and 38% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio between the total content of anionic surfactants and the total content of water is greater than or equal to 1, preferably strictly greater than 1, notably greater than or equal to 1.1, better still greater than or equal to 1.2; in particular from 1 to 3, better still from 1.1 to 2, or even from 1.2 to 1.8.Cosmetic treatment process, preferably for cleansing and / or washing keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined in one of Claims 1 to 15, and preferably said process comprises a step of rinsing the keratin materials, for example with water, performed after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.

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