Process and kit for treating skin comprising applying an anhydrous composition and an aqueous composition
The process of applying an anhydrous composition with a peeling agent and a water-rich composition enhances skin care ingredient penetration, addressing greasiness and improving skin care efficacy.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/JP2025/080118
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-10-01
- Filing Date
- 2025-08-06
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-19
AI Technical Summary
Anhydrous cosmetics often cause greasiness or oiliness and have difficulty in effectively penetrating skin care active ingredients.
A process involving two steps: applying an anhydrous composition containing a peeling agent followed by a composition with at least 40% water and a skin care active ingredient, which includes mechanical or chemical peeling agents and skin care agents like C-glycoside derivatives, to exfoliate the skin and enhance penetration.
Reduces greasiness while effectively delivering skin care active ingredients into the skin, providing a clean and fresh finish.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] DESCRIPTION
[0002] TITLE OF INVENTION
[0003] PROCESS AND KIT FOR TREATING SKIN
[0004] TECHNICAL FIELD
[0005] The present invention relates to a process and kit for treating skin with two different compositions.
[0006] BACKGROUND ART
[0007] In the cosmetics field, there is a type of anhydrous cosmetic that includes no water or only a small amount of water. It is typical that the anhydrous cosmetic includes at least one oil as a main ingredient. Anhydrous cosmetics tend to have greasiness or oiliness after application which is not comfortable.
[0008] On the other hand, cosmetic compositions making it possible to obtain skin care effects are increasingly sought-after by users. In order to obtain skin care effects, skin care active ingredients are generally included in the cosmetic compositions wherein the skin care active ingredients are expected to penetrate into the skin.
[0009] DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
[0010] There is still a need for reducing greasiness or oiliness of an anhydrous composition which is thickened.
[0011] Also, there is another need for a process which can provide good penetration of skin care active ingredient(s) into skin.
[0012] An objective of the present invention is to provide a process for treating skin which uses an anhydrous composition that can provide reduced greasiness or oiliness, and can also provide good penetration of skin care active ingredient(s) into the skin.
[0013] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a process for treating skin, comprising the steps of:
[0014] (1) applying onto the skin a first composition, comprising:
[0015] (a) at least one peeling agent, and
[0016] (2) applying onto the skin a second composition, comprising:
[0017] (b) at least one skin care active ingredient; and
[0018] (c) water, wherein the first composition is anhydrous, and the amount of the (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
[0019] The (a) peeling agent may be selected from mechanical peeling agents, preferably selected from water-soluble particles, and more preferably water-soluble polysaccharide particles such as sucrose particles.
[0020] On the other hand, the (a) peeling agent may be selected from chemical peeling agents, preferably selected from polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably polyhydroxy acids in the form of a lactone such as gluconolactone.
[0021] The amount of the (a) peeling agent(s) in the first composition may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
[0022] The first composition may further comprise (d) at least one oil other than a fatty alcohol.
[0023] The first composition may further comprise (e) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent selected from urethane polymers.
[0024] The first composition may further comprise (f) at least one fatty alcohol.
[0025] The (b) skin care active ingredient may be selected from skin lightening agents, skin antiaging agents, skin hydrating agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0026] The (b) skin care active ingredient may be selected from the group consisting of C-glycoside derivatives, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof such as sodium hyaluronate, and mixtures thereof.
[0027] The (b) skin care active ingredient may be selected from the group consisting of C-beta-D- xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; C-beta-D- xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; 1 -(C-beta- D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 1 -(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 1 - (C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one; 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D- glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; and salts thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and optical isomers thereof, preferably, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxypropane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and more preferably C- beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.
[0028] The amount of the (b) skin care active ingredient(s) in the second composition may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
[0029] The process according to the present invention may further comprise a step of massaging or rubbing the skin between step (1) and step (2).
[0030] The present invention also relates to a kit for treating skin, comprising:
[0031] (1) a first compartment comprising a first composition, comprising:
[0032] (a) at least one oil other than fatty alcohol, and
[0033] (2) a second compartment comprising a second composition, comprising: (b) at least one skin care active ingredient; and
[0034] (c) water, wherein the first composition is anhydrous, and the amount of the (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
[0035] The (a) peeling agent in the first composition in the kit according to the present invention may be selected from mechanical peeling agents, preferably selected from water-soluble particles, and more preferably water-soluble polysaccharide particles such as sucrose particles.
[0036] On the other hand, the (a) peeling agent in the first composition in the kit according to the present invention may be selected from chemical peeling agents, preferably selected from polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably polyhydroxy acids in the form of a lactone such as gluconolactone.
[0037] BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0038] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a process for treating skin which uses an anhydrous composition that can provide reduced greasiness or oiliness, and can also provide good penetration of skin care active ingredient(s) into the skin.
[0039] In order to realize a process that can provide reduced greasiness or oiliness and can also provide good penetration of skin care active ingredient(s) into the skin, the process according to the present invention combines two steps of using, first, an anhydrous including at least one peeling agent, and using, second, another composition including at least one skin care active ingredient and a substantial amount of water.
[0040] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a process for treating skin, comprising the steps of:
[0041] (1) applying onto the keratin material a first composition, comprising:
[0042] (a) at least one peeling agent, and
[0043] (2) applying onto the keratin material a second composition, comprising:
[0044] (b) at least one skin care active ingredient; and
[0045] (c) water, wherein the first composition is anhydrous, and the amount of the (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
[0046] The process according to the present invention combines the use of the first composition which is anhydrous and the second composition which includes a substantial amount of (c) water which can provide fresh feeling. Therefore, the process according to the present invention can provide reduced greasiness or oiliness although it uses the first composition which is anhydrous.
[0047] As the first composition includes the (a) peeling agent, the first composition can exfoliate the superficial layer of skin such as the stratum corneum of the skin. This makes the penetration of the (b) skin care active ingredient into the skin easier. Thus, the process according to the present invention can provide good penetration of skin care active ingredient(s) into the skin.
[0048] If the (a) peeling agent is selected from water-soluble particles, the process according to the present invention can also provide clean skin finish, because the second composition can dissolve the (a) peeling agent.
[0049] Hereafter, the present invention will be described in a detailed manner.
[0050] [Process]
[0051] The process for treating skin, according to the present invention, comprises the steps of:
[0052] (1) applying onto the keratin material a first composition, comprising:
[0053] (a) at least one peeling agent, and
[0054] (2) applying onto the keratin material a second composition, comprising:
[0055] (b) at least one skin care active ingredient; and
[0056] (c) water, wherein the first composition is anhydrous, and the amount of the (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
[0057] The first and second compositions used in the process according to the present invention will be described in a detailed manner below.
[0058] {First Composition}
[0059] The first composition used in the process according to the present invention is an anhydrous composition comprising:
[0060] (a) at least one peeling agent.
[0061] The term “anhydrous” composition here means a composition which includes no water or includes less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by of water, relative total weight of the composition.
[0062] (Peeling Agent)
[0063] The first composition to be used in the process according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one peeling agent. Two or more (a) peeling agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of peeling agent or a combination of different types of peeling agents may be used.
[0064] The peeling agent here means a substance which can remove a superficial layer of skin, for example, the stratum corneum or horny layer of the skin.
[0065] The (a) peeling agent may be selected from mechanical peeling agents, chemical peeling agents, and mixtures thereof. The mechanical peeling agents can remove a superficial layer such as the homy layer from skin by any mechanical action such as scrubbing.
[0066] The chemical peeling agents can remove a superficial layer such as the horny layer from skin by any chemical action such as dissolving the superficial layer.
[0067] The mechanical peeling agent may be selected from water-soluble particles.
[0068] Water-Soluble Particle:
[0069] The term “water-soluble” here means substances having a solubility of at least Ig / L, preferably at least lOg / L, and more preferably at least 100 / L, in water at room temperature (25°C) and atmosphere pressure (105Pa).
[0070] Preferably, the water-soluble particles are insoluble in oil, i.e. have a solubility of less than Ig / L, preferably of less than 0.1 g / L in oils.
[0071] The water-soluble particles may be of any shape: platelet-shaped, spherical, oblong, or multangular, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).
[0072] In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the water-soluble particles can function as water-soluble scrub particles. The water-soluble particle as a scrub particle can physically disrupt skin, in particular, the stratum corneum. In this embodiment, the water-soluble particles can be formed in the forms of hard, sharply edged and rough surface particles. The sharply edged particles may be formed in a poly-pyramid form.
[0073] In specific embodiments of the present invention, the water-soluble particles may have an aspect ratio of at least 1.1, preferably at least 1.2, and more preferably at least 1.5, even more preferably at least 2, and in particular, at least 2.5. In other embodiments of the present invention, the water-soluble particles may have an aspect ratio of 2 or less, preferably 1.5 or less, and more preferably 1.2 or less. The aspect ratio can be measured by common technology in the art, for example, image analysis using an electron microscope.
[0074] In other specific embodiments of the present invention, the water-soluble particles may have an average circularity determined by an image analysis method of 0.95 or less, preferably 0.9 or less, and more preferably 0.85 or less, and even more preferably 0.8 or less. In other embodiments of the present invention, the water-soluble particles may have an average circularity determined by an image analysis method of 0.7 or more, preferably 0.8 or more, more preferably 0.85 or more, and even more preferably 0.9 or more.
[0075] The "average circularity" may be determined by an image analysis method. In particular, the "average circularity" may be an arithmetic mean of circularity obtained by image analysis of a scanning electron microscope (SEM) image of no less than 2000 particles observed at a magnification of 1000 by secondary electron detection using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).
[0076] The "circularity" of each particle is a value determined by the following formula: C = 4KS / L2 wherein C represents a circularity, S represents an area (projected area) of the particle in the image, and L represents a length of a periphery (perimeter) of the particle in the image.
[0077] When the average circularity approaches 1 , the shape of each of the particles becomes more spherical.
[0078] The water-soluble particles may have an average primary particle size of 10 pm or more, preferably 30 pm or more, more preferably 50 pm or more, and even more preferably 100 pm or more, and in particular, 200 pm or more. The average primary particle size of the water- soluble particles may be 1 mm or less, preferably 800 pm or less, and more preferably 600 pm or less, and even more preferably 500 pm or less.
[0079] The term “average primary particle size” used herein represents a volume-average size mean diameter which is given by the statistical particle size distribution to half of the population, referred to as D50. For example, the volume-average size mean diameter can be measured by a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Mastersizer 2000 by Malvern Corp.
[0080] The substances of the water-soluble particles are not particularly limited as long as they dissolve by contacting water. However, preferably, the water-soluble particles may be composed of cosmetically benefit ingredients for skin.
[0081] For example, the water-soluble particles may be composed of polysaccharides, monosaccharides, amino acids, sugar alcohols, ascorbic acids, and a mixture thereof. The polysaccharide may include disaccharides, such as sucrose, lactose, maltose, and trisaccharides such as raffinose, and mucopolysaccharides, such as chondroitin sulfate and heparin. The monosaccharide may include pentose, hexose, and heptose, such as glucose, dextrose, galactose, mannose, and glucuronic acid. The sugar alcohols may include sorbitol and glucamines. The ascorbic acids may include vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and its derivative such as ascorbyl glucoside.
[0082] It is preferable that the water-soluble particle comprise polysaccharide particles, and more preferably sucrose.
[0083] Thus, in one embodiment, it is preferable that the (a) peeling agent be selected from mechanical peeling agents, more preferably selected from water-soluble particles, and even more preferably water-soluble polysaccharide particles such as sucrose particles.
[0084] The chemical peeling agent may be selected from polyhydroxy acids.
[0085] Polyhydroxy Acid:
[0086] The term “polyhydroxy acid” here means an organic compound which has at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxy groups. The number of carboxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferable, and one carboxyl group is more preferable. The number of hydroxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is also not limited, but 2 to 10 are preferable, and 2 to 6 are more preferable. The number of carbon atoms in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but 3 to 11 are preferable, and 3 to 8 are more preferable.
[0087] The above organic compound may be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the polyhydroxy acid may be selected from aliphatic polyhydroxy acids or aromatic polyhydroxy acids. It is preferable that the aliphatic polyhydroxy acid be selected from sugar acids.
[0088] Examples of the polyhydroxy acid include, dihydroxy propanoic acid such as glyceric acid; trihydroxy butanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxy pentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid, and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxy hexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid, and talonic acid; hexahydroxy heptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid, galactoheptonic acid; tartaric acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0089] It is preferable that the polyhydroxy acid be in the form of a lactone. The lactone ring of the polyhydroxy acid in the form of a lactone may be saturated. Examples of the polyhydroxy acid in the form of a lactone include, gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof.
[0090] It is more preferable that the (a) peeling agent be gluconolactone.
[0091] The polyhydroxy acid may be in the form of a salt.
[0092] The type of the salt is not limited. Examples of the salt include alkaline metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt and magnesium salt; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt and triethanolamine salt; and mixtures thereof. Sodium salt is preferable. If two or more salts are used, they may be the same or different.
[0093] The chemical peeling agent may be selected from monohydroxy acids.
[0094] Monohydroxy Acid:
[0095] The term “monohydroxy acid” here means an organic compound which has at least one carboxyl group and one hydroxy group. The number of carboxyl groups in the monohydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferable, and one carboxyl group is more preferable. The number of carbon atoms in the monohydroxy acid is not limited, but 3 to 11 are preferable, and 3 to 8 are more preferable.
[0096] The monohydroxyl acid may be selected from alpha-monohydroxy acids, beta-monohydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof.
[0097] The term “alpha-monohydroxy acid” here means a carboxylic acid which has at least one carboxyl group and one hydroxyl group separated by one carbon atom. Thus, in other words, the alpha-monohydroxy acid is a carboxylic acid which has one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.
[0098] The alpha-monohydroxy acid may be selected from, for example glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycolic acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof, more preferably glycolic acid.
[0099] The term “beta-monohydroxy acid” here means a carboxylic acid which has at least one carboxyl group and one hydroxyl group separated by two carbon atoms. The beta-monohydroxy acid may be salicylic acid.
[0100] The monohydroxy acid may be in the form of a salt.
[0101] The type of the salt is not limited. Examples of the salt include alkaline metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt and magnesium salt; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt and triethanolamine salt; and mixtures thereof. Sodium salt is preferable. If two or more salts are used, they may be the same or different.
[0102] It is preferable that the chemical peeling agent be selected from polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxyl acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably gluconolactone, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, and a mixture thereof.
[0103] Thus, in one embodiment, it is preferable that the (a) peeling agent be selected from chemical peeling agents, more preferably selected from polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably polyhydroxy acids in the form of a lactone such as gluconolactone.
[0104] The amount of the (a) peeling agent(s) thereof in the first composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
[0105] On the other hand, the amount of the (a) peeling agent(s) thereof in the first composition may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
[0106] Thus, the amount of the (a) peeling agent(s) thereof in the first composition may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
[0107] (Oil)
[0108] The first composition used in the process according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one oil. Two or more (d) oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.
[0109] As used herein, the expression “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (105Pa). The (d) oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0110] The (d) oil here is not fatty alcohol. Thus, the (d) oil is different from the (f) fatty alcohol.
[0111] The (d) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0112] It may be preferable that the (d) oil be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant origin, synthetic oils such as ester oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0113] As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, squalene, natural triglyceride and mixtures thereof.
[0114] As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as hydrogenated poly olefin (e.g., C6-C20), ester oils (e.g., ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate), ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0115] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0116] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
[0117] Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0118] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0119] Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and mixtures thereof.
[0120] As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0121] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
[0122] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0123] The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0124] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0125] More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
[0126] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0127] As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2- ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0128] As examples of ether oils, mention may be made of dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonyl phenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
[0129] As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylic triglycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate), glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate), and mixtures thereof.
[0130] The first composition may comprise at least one silicone oil. As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0131] Preferably, the oil phase of the present invention does not include any silicone oil. In other words, the (d) oil of the present invention may be selected from non-silicone oil.
[0132] The first composition may comprise at least one hydrocarbon oil. Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from:
[0133] - linear or branched, optionally cyclic, Ce-Cie lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and
[0134] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.
[0135] Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is derived from renewable resources such as plants.
[0136] As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0137] It is preferable that the (d) oil be selected from the group consisting of plant oils, ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, and a mixture thereof.
[0138] It is more preferable that the (d) oil be selected from the group consisting of plant oils such as jojoba oil, carbonate oils such as dicaprylyl carbonate, artificial triglyceride oils such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, hydrocarbon oils such as squalane, and a mixture thereof.
[0139] The amount of the (d) oil(s) in the first composition may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
[0140] On the other hand, the amount of the (d) oil(s) in the first composition may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
[0141] Thus, the amount of the (d) oil(s) in the first composition may range from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
[0142] (Organic Lipophilic Gelling Agent)
[0143] The first composition used in the process according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent. Two or more (e) organic lipophilic gelling agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of an organic lipophilic gelling agent or a combination of different types of organic lipophilic gelling agents may be used.
[0144] The term “lipophilic” here means substances which are soluble in oils at a concentration of at least 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the oils at room temperature (25 °C) and atmosphere pressure (105Pa).
[0145] The term “gelling” here means that the ingredient (e) can thicken or increase the viscosity of the first composition.
[0146] If the first composition comprises (e) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent, the first composition is thickened, and can have an appropriate applicability, for example, without dropping off during application.
[0147] The first composition is preferably in the form a gel, e.g., an oil gel.
[0148] The term “gel” here includes a thick liquid which can be a Newtonian fluid or a nonNewtonian fluid. The Newtonian fluid means a fluid which does not change its viscosity with the change in flow condition. The gel also includes a shear thinning gel.
[0149] In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the first composition may be a gel having a non-Newtonian viscosity. In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the first composition may be shear thinning. The non-Newtonian shear thinning material changes state from a gel to a liquid in the presence of an applied shear stress, and changes back to a gel in the absence of the applied shear stress. A shear thinning material by definition is one in which when an applied shear stress is increased, the material's viscosity decreases in a nonlinear way.
[0150] The first composition may be characterized by its rheological characteristics. The first composition can have a storage modulus (G') of from 50 Pa to 10,000 Pa, preferably from 100 Pa to 7,500 Pa, and more preferably from 500 Pa to 5,000 Pa.
[0151] The storage modulus (G') can be measured using a rheometer with 40 mm parallel plates and following conditions:
[0152] Set gap: 500 pm
[0153] Temperature: 25°C
[0154] Strain (%): 1%
[0155] Frequency: 1Hz
[0156] The first composition can have more appropriate applicability if the storage modulus (G') thereof is 50 Pa or more and 10,000 Pa or less, because the storage modulus (G') of 50 Pa or more can make the first composition not easily breakable before application, and the storage modulus (G') of 10,000 Pa or less can make the first composition not be a hard solid that is difficult to apply.
[0157] If the first composition has the above storage modulus (G'), the (a) peeling agent can be well dispersed in the first composition, and therefore, the first composition can effectively exfoliate the superficial layer of skin such as the stratum corneum of the skin.
[0158] The (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent is selected from urethane polymers. The term “urethane polymer” here means a polymer including at least one urethane bond (-NH-COO-). It is preferable that the urethane polymer include a plurality of urethane bonds, and more preferably a plurality of repeating units each of which includes at least one urethane bond, and in particular a plurality of urethane bonds.
[0159] The (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent may or may not be crosslinked. It is preferable that the (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent be crosslinked.
[0160] The (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent may be in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles. The (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent in the form of particles may have a number-average particle size ranging, for example, from 1 pm to 20 pm. The term “numberaverage size” denotes the dimension given by the random particle size distribution to half the population, known as D50. The (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent may be in the form of a powder.
[0161] The (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent may be a copolymer. The (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent may be a copolymer of isocyanate and trimethylol hexyllactone, in particular, a hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) / trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer. As examples of the copolymer, mention may be made of urethane polymer powder sold by the company Toshiki Pigment under the name, Plastic Powder D-400®, Plastic Powder D-800®, or Plastic Powder CS-400®, or sold by the company Lubrizol under the name, Oilkemia® 5S CC Polymer.
[0162] Most preferably, as the (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent, the first composition may comprise hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) / trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer, for example, sold by the company Lubrizol under the name Oilkemia® 5S CC Polymer.
[0163] The amount of the (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent (s) in the first composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
[0164] On the other hand, the amount of the (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent (s) in the first composition may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
[0165] Thus, the amount of the (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent (s) in the first composition may be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
[0166] The (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent (s) can thicken the first composition even if the amount thereof is small, such as 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
[0167] (Fatty Alcohol)
[0168] The first composition to be used in the process according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one fatty alcohol. Two or more (f) fatty alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty alcohol or a combination of different types of fatty alcohols may be used.
[0169] The term “fatty” here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms.
[0170] Thus, alcohols which have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.
[0171] The (f) fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is chosen from the C12-C24 alkyl and C12-C24 alkenyl groups. R may be or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
[0172] The (f) fatty alcohol may be selected from linear or branched fatty alcohols.
[0173] Non-limiting examples of linear fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Examples of suitable linear fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0174] The (f) fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.
[0175] Thus, according to at least one embodiment, the (f) fatty alcohol used in the first composition is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).
[0176] Non-limiting examples of branched fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include hexyldodecanol, octyldodecanol and a mixture thereof.
[0177] It is preferable that the (f) fatty alcohol be in the form of a liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmosphere pressure (105Pa).
[0178] It is preferable that the (f) fatty alcohol be selected from branched fatty alcohols, and more preferably from the group consisting of hexyldodecanol, octyldodecanol and a mixture thereof.
[0179] The amount of the (f) fatty alcohol(s) in the first composition may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
[0180] On the other hand, the amount of the (f) fatty alcohol(s) in the first composition may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
[0181] Thus, the amount of the (f) fatty alcohol(s) in the first composition may be from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
[0182] (Optional Ingredients)
[0183] The first composition may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, optional ingredient(s) typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, lipophilic thickeners other than the ingredient (e); waxes; antioxidants; preservatives; and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.
[0184] The first composition may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
[0185] (Preparation)
[0186] The first composition can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
[0187] The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the first composition.
[0188] (Form)
[0189] The first composition which is anhydrous may be transparent.
[0190] The transparency may be measured by measuring the turbidity (for example, turbidity can be measured with a 2100Q (marketed by Hach Company) having a round cell (25 mm in diameter and 60 mm height) and a tungsten filament lamp which can emit visible light (between 400 and 800 nm, preferably from 400 to 500 nm). The measurement can be performed on the undiluted composition. The blank may be determined with distilled water.
[0191] The first composition may have a turbidity of 200 NTU or less, preferably 150 NTU or less, more preferably 100 NTU or less, more preferably 50 NTU or less, more preferably 30 NTU or less, and even more preferably 10 NTU or less.
[0192] The first composition may take various forms, such as a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, or the like.
[0193] {Second Composition}
[0194] The second composition used in the process according to the present invention comprises:
[0195] (b) at least one skin care active ingredient; and
[0196] (c) water, wherein the amount of the (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
[0197] The second composition can be an aqueous composition as it includes a substantial amount of the (c) water.
[0198] (Skin Care Active Ingredient)
[0199] The second composition used in the process according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one skin care active ingredient. Two or more skin care active ingredients may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of skin care active ingredient, or a combination of different types of skin care active ingredients may be used.
[0200] It is preferable that the (b) skin care active ingredient has a logP value ranging from -4.5 to 4.5, preferably from -4.0 to 4.0, and more preferably from -3.5 to 3.5.
[0201] A log P value is a value for the base-ten logarithm of the apparent octan-l-ol / water partition coefficient. The log p values are known and are determined by a standard test which determines the concentration of the compound in question in octan-l-ol and water. The log P may be calculated according to the method described in the article by Meylan and Howard: Atom / Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients, J. Pharm. Sci., 84: 83-92, 1995. This value may also be calculated using numerous commercially available software packages, which determine the log P as a function of the structure of a molecule. By way of example, mention may be made of the Epiwin software from the United States Environmental Agency.
[0202] The values may especially be calculated using the ACD (Advanced Chemistry Development) Solaris software V4.67; they may also be obtained from Exploring QSAR: hydrophobic, electronic and steric constants (ACS professional reference book, 1995). There is also an Internet site which provides estimated values (address: http : / / esc . syrres . com / interko w / ko wdemo ,htm) .
[0203] The (b) skin care active ingredient may be in the form of a salt. The salts of the (b) skin care active ingredient include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from an acid or from a base.
[0204] It is preferable that the (b) skin care active ingredient be a skin care cosmetic active ingredient, and more preferably a skin lightening agent or a skin anti-aging agent such as an anti-wrinkle agent. The term “skin lightening agent” here means an agent to increase the lightness or brightness of the skin. Thus, the “skin lightening agent” may be rephrased as “skin whitening agent”.
[0205] As the (b) skin care active ingredient, mention may be made of Vitamin B3 and derivatives.
[0206] Vitamin B3, also called vitamin PP, is a compound of the following formula: in which R may be -CONH2 (niacinamide), -COOH (nicotinic acid or niacin), or CH2OH (nicotinyl alcohol), -CO-NH-CH2-COOH (nicotinuric acid) or -CO-NH-OH (niconityl hydroxamic acid). Niacinamide is preferable.
[0207] Vitamin B3 derivatives that may be mentioned include, for example, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen groups of -CONPI2, products from reaction with carboxylic acids and amino acids, esters of nicotinyl alcohol and of carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicyclic acid, glycolic acid or palmitic acid.
[0208] Mention may also be made of the following derivatives: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6- methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N- dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate.
[0209] Other vitamin B3 derivatives that may also be mentioned include its inorganic salts, such as chlorides, bromides, iodides or carbonates, and its organic salts, such as the salts obtained by reaction with carboxylic acids, such as acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, mandelate, tartrate, etc.
[0210] As the (b) skin care active ingredient, mention may be made of ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof. Ascorbic acid is generally in L form, since it is usually extracted from natural products.
[0211] On account of its chemical structure (a-keto lactone) which makes it very sensitive to certain environmental parameters such as light, heat and aqueous media, it may be advantageous to use the ascorbic acid in the form of a derivative or an analog chosen, for example, from saccharide esters of ascorbic acid or metal salts of phosphoryl ascorbic acid, alkali metal salts, esters and sugars.
[0212] The saccharide esters of ascorbic acid that may be used in the present invention are especially the glycosyl, mannosyl, fructosyl, fucosyl, galactosyl, N-acetylglucosamine and N- acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof, and more especially ascorbyl glucoside such as ascorbyl-2 glucoside, 2-O-a-D-glucopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid or 6-O-p-D-galactopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid. The latter compounds and processes for preparing them are described in particular in documents EP-A-0 487 404, EP-A-0 425 066 and IP 05 213 736.
[0213] In regards to the metal salt of phosphoryl ascorbic acid, it may be chosen from alkali metal, and especially sodium, ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline-earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.
[0214] It is also possible to use ascorbic acid precursors such as active agent amides and active agent saccharide derivatives, which respectively involve proteases or peptidases and glycosidases as enzymes for releasing ascorbic acid in situ. Such compounds are described in patent EP 0 667 145.
[0215] The active agent saccharide derivatives are especially chosen from C3 to Cg saccharide derivatives. They are especially chosen from glucosyl, mannosyl, fructosyl, fucosyl, N- acetylglucosamine, galactosyl and N-acetylgalactosamine derivatives, N-acetylmuramic acid derivatives and sialic acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
[0216] Second ascorbic acid precursors may be chosen from derivatives that are hydrolyzed by other enzymes, for example by esterases, phosphatases, sulfatases, etc. According to the present invention, the second active agent precursors may be chosen, for example, from phosphates; sulfates; palmitates; acetates; propionates; ferulates, and, in general, active agent alkyl or acyl esters; acyl or alkyl ethers. The acyl and alkyl radicals in particular contain from 1 to 30 carbon atoms. As the skin care active ingredient, mention may be made of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid.
[0217] In particular, the second precursor may be an ester derived from the reaction with a mineral acid such as a sulfate or a phosphate to react with a sulfatase or phosphatase on contact with the skin, and the second precursor may be an acyl or alkyl ester derived from the reaction with an organic acid, for instance palmitic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, nicotinic acid, 1,2,3- propanetricarboxylic acid or ferulic acid to react with a specific skin esterase.
[0218] Other derivatives are described, for example, in patent EP 1 430 883.
[0219] The ascorbic acid analogs are, more particularly, its salts, especially alkali metal salts, for example sodium ascorbate, its esters, especially such as its acetic, propionic or palmitic esters, or its sugars, especially such as glycosyl ascorbic acid. As the (b) skin care active ingredient, mention may be made of resorcinol derivatives.
[0220] The resorcinol derivative may preferably be 4-position substituted derivatives, such as 4- alkylresorcinols, more preferably phenyl ethyl resorcinol, 4-n-butylresorcinol and 4- (tetrahydro-2H-pyran-4-yl) benzene- 1,3 -diol, and in particular phenyl ethyl resorcinol because of its skin lightening or whitening effect. Phenyl ethyl resorcinol is also referred to as 4-(l -phenylethyl)- 1,3 -benzenediol and represented by the following chemical formula.
[0221] Phenyl ethyl resorcinol can be obtained, for example, from Symrise Corp (the product name: Sym white 377®).
[0222] As other examples of resorcinol derivatives, mention may be made of: 2-methylresorcinol, 5- methylresorcinol, 4-methylresorcinol, 4-ethylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 4,5- dimethylresorcinol, 2, 4-dimethyl- 1,3 -benzenediol, 3, 5 -dihydroxybenzylamine, 5- methoxyresorcinol, 3,5-dihydroxybenzyl alcohol, 2 -methoxyresorcinol, 4-methoxyresorcinol,
[0223] 3.5 -dihydroxytoluene monohydrate, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 2’,4’- dihydroxyacetophenone, 3 ’ ,5 ’-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,6-dihydroxy-4- methylbenzaldehyde, 4-propylresorcinol, 2,4-dihydroxy-l,3,5-trimethylbenzene, 3,5- dihydroxybenzamide, 2,6-dihydroxybenzamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzamide, 2,4- dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,6-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3, 5 -dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,6- dihydroxy-4-methylbenzyl alcohol, 3,5-dihydroxyanisole hydrate, 4-aminoresorcinol hydrochloride, 2-aminoresorcinol hydrochloride, 5-aminobenzene-l,3-diol hydrochloride, 2 ’,4 ’-dihydroxypropiophenone, 2 ’,4 ’-dihydroxy-3 ’-methylacetophenone, (2,4- dihydroxyphenyl)acetone, (3 ,5 -dihydroxyphenyl)acetone, 2,6-dihydroxy-4’ - methylacetophenone, 4-n-butylresorcinol, 2, 4-diethyl- 1,3 -benzenediol, 3,5-dihydroxy-4- methylbenzoic acid, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzoic acid, 2,4-dihydroxy-6-methylbenzoic acid, 3,5-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid, 2-ethyl-5-methoxybenzene-l,3-diol, 4-amino-3,5- dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,5-dihydroxyacetophenone monohydrate, 3, 5 -dihydroxybenzylamine hydrochloride, 4,6-dichlororesorcinol, 2’, 4’ -dihydroxy-3 ’-methylpropiophenone, 1 -(3 -ethyl -
[0224] 2.6-dihydroxyphenyl)ethan- 1 -one, 2’ ,6’-dihydroxy-4 ’ -methoxyacetophenone, 1 -(2,6- dihydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)ethan-l-one, 3(2,4-dihydroxyphenylpropionic acid, and 2,4- dihydroxy-3 ,6-dimethylbenzoic acid.
[0225] As the (b) skin care active ingredient, mention may be made of C-glycoside derivatives.
[0226] The C-glycoside derivative(s) that may be present in the second composition can be chosen from the compounds of general formula (II) below: in which:
[0227] R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4 and especially C1-C2 alkyl radical, in particular methyl;
[0228] S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; and
[0229] X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)- and preferentially a - CH(OH)- group, and also the cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and optical isomers thereof.
[0230] As nonlimiting illustrations of C-glycoside derivatives that are more particularly suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made especially of the following derivatives: C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one;
[0231] C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one;
[0232] C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;
[0233] C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;
[0234] 1 - (C-beta-D - glucopyr ano syl) -2 -hydroxypropane ; l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;
[0235] 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one;
[0236] 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; and also the cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and optical isomers thereof.
[0237] According to a particular embodiment, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C- alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and better still C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxypropane, may be advantageously used for the preparation of the second composition.
[0238] According to a particular embodiment, a C-glycoside derivative that is suitable for use in the present invention may advantageously be hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, also known as C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, sold especially as a solution at 30% by weight in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60 / 40) under the name Mexoryl SBB® by Chimex. According to one embodiment, the C-glyeoside derivative is in the form of a solution in which it is present in an amount of 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution, the remainder being a mixture of water and propylene glycol.
[0239] The salts of the C-glycoside derivatives that are suitable for use in the present invention may comprise conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or mineral acids. Examples that may be mentioned include the salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of the salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. They may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids, or alternatively aromatic acids. These acids may also comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from 0 and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may be made especially of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.
[0240] The solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described above comprise conventional solvates such as those formed during the final step of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples that may be mentioned include solvates due to the presence of water or of linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.
[0241] A C-glycoside derivative that is suitable for use in the present invention may especially be obtained via the synthetic method described in document WO 02 / 051 828, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.
[0242] In one embodiment, it is preferable that the (b) skin care active ingredient is selected from the group consisting of C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n- propan-2-one; C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxypropane; 1 -(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 1 -(C-alpha-D- glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 1 -(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 1 -(C- alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propan- 2'-one; 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D- glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2- aminopropane; and salts thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and optical isomers thereof, more preferably, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-alpha-D- xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and even more preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxypropane.
[0243] The (b) skin care active ingredient may be selected from hyaluronic acid and salts thereof.
[0244] Hyaluronic acid is a predominant glucosaminoglycan found in the skin. Thus, the fibroblasts synthesize predominantly collagens, matrix glycoproteins other than collagens (fibronectin, laminin), proteoglycans and elastin. The keratinocytes, for their part, synthesize predominantly sulfated glycosaminoglycans and hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is also called hyaluronan.
[0245] Hyaluronic acid is present in the free state in the epidermis and in the dermis and is responsible for turgescence of the skin. This polysaccharide can in fact retain a large volume of water, corresponding to up to 1000 times its weight. In this sense, hyaluronic acid plays an important role in increasing the amounts of water bound in the tissue, and also in the mechanical properties of the skin and in wrinkle formation.
[0246] Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula. In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid" covers, in particular, the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:
[0247] It is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D- glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.
[0248] As the salts, mention may be made of alkaline metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0249] The molecular weight of hyaluronic acid or salt thereof is not limited. The molecular weight of hyaluronic acid may be 5 kDa or more, preferably 20 kDa or more, and more preferably 100 kDa or more. The molecular weight of hyaluronic acid or salt thereof may be 20 MDa or less, preferably 10 MDa or less, and more preferably 2,000 kDa or less. Thus, the molecular weight of hyaluronic acid may be from 5 kDa to 20 MDa, preferably from 20 kDa to 10 MDa, and more preferably from 100 kDa to 2,000 kDa.
[0250] Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, “molecular weight” may mean a weight average molecular weight.
[0251] Hyaluronic acid and salts thereof can function as a humectant or a hydrating agent for skin.
[0252] It is preferable that the (b) skin care active ingredient be selected from skin lightening agents, skin antiaging agents, skin hydrating agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0253] It is preferable that the (b) skin care active ingredient be selected from the group consisting of C-glycoside derivatives, salicylic acid and derivatives thereof, polyhydroxy acids and salts thereof, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof such as sodium hyaluronate, and mixtures thereof.
[0254] The amount of the (b) skin care active ingredient(s) in the second composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
[0255] On the other hand, the amount of the (b) skin care active ingredient(s) in the second composition may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
[0256] Thus, the amount of the (b) skin care active ingredient(s) in the second composition may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition. (Water)
[0257] The second composition used in the process according to the present invention comprises (c) water.
[0258] The amount of the (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
[0259] On the other hand, the amount of the (c) water in the second composition may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 97% by weight or less, and more preferably 95% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the second composition. Thus, the amount of the (c) water in the second composition may be from 40% to 99% by weight, preferably from 50% to 97% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
[0260] (Optional Ingredients)
[0261] The second composition may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, optional ingredient(s) typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, oils: surfactants: emulsifiers: hydrophilic thickeners; polyols; preservatives; and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.
[0262] The second composition may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition. If the second composition comprises at least one oil, the above explanations about the (d) oil for the first composition can also apply to the oil in the second composition.
[0263] If the second composition comprises at least one oil, typically with surfactants or emulsifiers, the second composition may be in the form of, for example, an O / W emulsion or an O / W dispersion.
[0264] If the second composition comprises at least one oil, the amount of the oil(s) in the second composition may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
[0265] If the second composition comprises at least one polyol such as glycerin, the amount of the polyol in the second composition may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
[0266] (Preparation)
[0267] The second composition can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above. The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the second composition.
[0268] (Form)
[0269] The second composition may be transparent.
[0270] The transparency may be measured by measuring the turbidity (for example, turbidity can be measured with a 2100Q (marketed by Hach Company) having a round cell (25 mm in diameter and 60 mm height) and a tungsten filament lamp which can emit visible light (between 400 and 800 nm, preferably from 400 to 500 nm). The measurement can be performed on the undiluted composition. The blank may be determined with distilled water.
[0271] The second composition may have a turbidity of 200 NTU or less, preferably 150 NTU or less, more preferably 100 NTU or less, more preferably 50 NTU or less, more preferably 30 NTU or less, and even more preferably 10 NTU or less.
[0272] The second composition may take various forms, such as a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, or the like.
[0273] {Steps}
[0274] The process according to the present invention comprises the first step (1) of applying the first composition onto a skin, and the second step (2) of applying the second composition onto the skin. The (2) second step follows the (1) first step.
[0275] The skin here encompasses facial skin, neck skin, and scalp. The process according to the present invention may also be used for mucosae such as lips, and the like.
[0276] The process according to the present invention is a non-therapeutic process, preferably a cosmetic process, and more preferably a cosmetic process for skin care.
[0277] The method to apply the first or second composition to the skin is not particularly limited, and any methods known in the art can be used. In general, the first or second composition may be applied by hands.
[0278] The process according to the present invention may further comprise a step of massaging or rubbing the skin between the first step (1) and the second step (2). In other words, the skin on which the first composition has been applied may be massaged or rubbed. The massaging or rubbing can be performed by any means such as fingers. This massaging or rubbing step may be carried out for at least 10 second. This massaging or rubbing step can promote the (a) peeling agent in the first composition disrupting or peeling the surface of the skin, in particular, the stratum corneum. This massaging or rubbing step can further enhance the penetration of the (b) skin care active ingredient into the skin.
[0279] The process according to the present invention may further comprise a step of removing the first composition from the skin. This removing step may be performed by, for example, rinsing off with water. The above massaging or rubbing step and / or the above removing step can be performed before applying the second composition onto the skin.
[0280] After applying the second composition onto the skin, the process according to the present invention may further comprise a step of leaving the second composition onto the skin for a certain period of time, such as few minutes, in order to make sure the penetration of the (b) skin care active ingredient into the skin.
[0281] After applying the second composition onto the skin, the process according to the present invention may or may not comprise a step of removing the second composition from the skin. This removing step may be performed by, for example, rinsing off with water.
[0282] {Embodiments}
[0283] According to a preferred embodiment, the process according to the present invention comprises the steps of:
[0284] (1) applying onto the skin a first composition, comprising:
[0285] (a) at least one peeling agent, wherein the first composition is anhydrous, the amount of the (a) peeling agent in the first composition is from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, and
[0286] (2) applying onto the skin a second composition, comprising:
[0287] (b) at least one skin care active ingredient; and
[0288] (c) water wherein the amount of the (b) skin care active ingredient in the second composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, and the amount of the (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more.
[0289] According to a more preferred embodiment, the process according to the present invention comprises the steps of:
[0290] (1) applying onto the skin a first composition, comprising:
[0291] (a’) at least one peeling agent selected from mechanical peeling agents and chemical peeling agents, wherein the first composition is anhydrous, the amount of the (a’) peeling agent in the first composition is from 0.05% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, and
[0292] (2) applying onto the skin a second composition, comprising:
[0293] (b’) at least one skin care active ingredient selected from skin lightening agents, skin antiaging agents, skin hydrating agents, and mixtures thereof; and
[0294] (c) water wherein the amount of the (b) skin care active ingredient in the second composition is from 0.05% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, and the amount of the (c) water in the second composition is 50% by weight or more. According to an even more preferred embodiment, the process according to the present invention comprises the steps of:
[0295] (1) applying onto the skin a first composition, comprising:
[0296] (a”) at least one peeling agent selected from water-soluble particles such as sugars, polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxyl acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, wherein the first composition is anhydrous, the amount of the (a”) peeling agent in the first composition is from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, and
[0297] (2) applying onto the skin a second composition, comprising:
[0298] (b”) at least one skin care active ingredient selected from the group consisting of C-glycoside derivatives, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof such as sodium hyaluronate, and mixtures thereof; and
[0299] (c) water wherein the amount of the (b) skin care active ingredient in the second composition is from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, and the amount of the (c) water in the second composition is 60% by weight or more.
[0300] According to a preferred embodiment in another aspect of the present invention, the process according to the present invention comprises the steps of:
[0301] (1) applying onto the skin a first composition, comprising:
[0302] (a) at least one peeling agent,
[0303] (d) at least one oil other than fatty alcohol;
[0304] (e) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent selected from urethane polymers; and
[0305] (f) at least one fatty alcohol, wherein the first composition is anhydrous, the amount of the (a) peeling agent in the first composition is from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, the amount of the (d) oil in the first composition is 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the first composition, the amount of the (e) lipophilic gelling agent in the first composition is 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the first composition, and the amount of the (f) fatty alcohol in the first composition is from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, and
[0306] (2) applying onto the skin a second composition, comprising:
[0307] (b) at least one skin care active ingredient; and
[0308] (c) water wherein the amount of the (b) skin care active ingredient in the second composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, and the amount of the (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more.
[0309] According to a more preferred embodiment in another aspect of the present invention, the process according to the present invention comprises the steps of: (1) applying onto the skin a first composition, comprising:
[0310] (a’) at least one peeling agent selected from mechanical peeling agents and chemical peeling agents,
[0311] (d’) at least one oil selected from the group consisting of plant oils, ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, and a mixture thereof;
[0312] (e’) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent selected from crosslinked urethane polymers; and
[0313] (f ) at least one fatty alcohol selected from branched fatty alcohols, wherein the first composition is anhydrous, the amount of the (a’) peeling agent in the first composition is from 0.05% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, the amount of the (d’) oil in the first composition is 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the first composition, the amount of the (e’) lipophilic gelling agent in the first composition is 4% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the first composition, and the amount of the (f ) fatty alcohol in the first composition is from 0.5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, and
[0314] (2) applying onto the skin a second composition, comprising:
[0315] (b) at least one skin care active ingredient; and
[0316] (c) water wherein the amount of the (b) skin care active ingredient in the second composition is from 0.05% to
[0317] 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, and the amount of the (c) water in the second composition is 50% by weight or more.
[0318] According to an even more preferred embodiment in another aspect of the present invention, the process according to the present invention comprises the steps of:
[0319] (1) applying onto the skin a first composition, comprising:
[0320] (a”) at least one peeling agent selected from water-soluble particles such as sugars, polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxyl acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof,
[0321] (d”) at least one oil selected from the group consisting of plant oils such as jojoba oil, carbonate oils such as dicaprylyl carbonate, artificial triglyceride oils such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, hydrocarbon oils such as squalane, and a mixture thereof;
[0322] (e”) HDI / trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer; and
[0323] (f ’) at least one fatty alcohol selected from the group consisting of hexyldodecanol, octyldodecanol and a mixture thereof, wherein the first composition is anhydrous, the amount of the (a”) peeling agent in the first composition is from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, the amount of the (d”) oil in the first composition is 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the first composition, the amount of the (e”) lipophilic gelling agent in the first composition is 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the first composition, and the amount of the (f ’) fatty alcohol in the first composition is from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, and
[0324] (2) applying onto the skin a second composition, comprising:
[0325] (b) at least one skin care active ingredient; and
[0326] (c) water wherein the amount of the (b) skin care active ingredient in the second composition is from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, and the amount of the (c) water in the second composition is 60% by weight or more.
[0327] [Kit]
[0328] Another aspect of the present invention is a kit for treating skin, comprising:
[0329] (1) a first compartment comprising a first composition, comprising:
[0330] (a) at least one oil other than fatty alcohol, and
[0331] (2) a second compartment comprising a second composition, comprising:
[0332] (b) at least one skin care active ingredient; and
[0333] (c) water wherein the first composition is anhydrous, and the amount of the (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
[0334] The above explanations regarding the ingredients (a) to (c), as well as the optional ingredients, for the process according to the present invention can apply to those for the above kit according to the present invention. The explanations regarding the preparation and forms of the first and second compositions can also apply to those of the first and second compositions described in the above kit according to the present invention.
[0335] The (a) peeling agent in the first composition in the kit according to the present invention may be selected from mechanical peeling agents, preferably selected from water-soluble particles, and more preferably water-soluble polysaccharide particles such as sucrose particles.
[0336] On the other hand, the (a) peeling agent in the first composition in the kit according to the present invention may be selected from chemical peeling agents, preferably selected from polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably polyhydroxy acids in the form of a lactone such as gluconolactone.
[0337] A person skilled in the art can prepare the kit according to the present invention based on conventional packaging technology. The kit according to the present invention includes at least the first and second compartments each of which includes, respectively, the first and second compositions separately. The first and second compartments may be equipped with a dispending or discharging means such as a pump. The first and second compartments may be separately included in two distinct containers. On the other hand, the first and second compartments may be in a single container.
[0338] The kit according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, preferably a cosmetic process, and more preferably a cosmetic process for skin care. The kit according to the present invention can be used for performing the process according to the present invention.
[0339] For example, it is possible to use the kit by, for example,
[0340] (i) dispensing or discharging the first composition from the first compartment,
[0341] (ii) applying the first composition onto skin,
[0342] (iii) dispensing or discharging the second composition from the second compartment, and
[0343] (iv) applying the second composition onto the skin.
[0344] The above steps (i) to (iv) may be performed separately and sequentially. In other words, the above steps (i) to (iv) may not be performed simultaneously.
[0345] If necessary, the following step(s) may be performed between the above step (ii) and (iv):
[0346] (a) massaging or rubbing the skin onto which the first composition has been applied; and / or
[0347] (b) removing the first composition from the skin,
[0348] If necessary, the following step(s) may be performed after the above step (iv):
[0349] (c) leaving the second composition on the skin for a certain period of time; and / or
[0350] (d) removing the second composition from the skin.
[0351] EXAMPLES
[0352] The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0353] Example A and Comparative Example A
[0354] Each of the compositions according to Example A and Comparative Example A was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.
[0355] Table 1
[0356] Examples B-C and Comparative Example B Each of the compositions according to Examples B-C and Comparative Example B was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 2. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients in Table 2 are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.
[0357] Table 2
[0358] [Evaluations]
[0359] (Penetration Test)
[0360] The penetration test experiments were performed in a Franz diffusion cell (PermeGear) with a Strat-M membrane (Merck, surface area: 1.77 cm2). This equipment was composed of a donor part and a receptor part with the Strat-M membrane between the donor and receptor parts. The receptor part with a predetermined volume was filled with a receiving solution (0.25 wt% Tween 80 / deionized water) maintained at a temperature of 32 °C, which was continuously stirred with a small magnetic bar.
[0361] Each of the compositions according to Example A and Comparative Example A was applied onto the Strat-M membrane at an amount of 5 mg / cm2. The Strat-M membrane was gently rubbed for 1 minute.
[0362] A composition including the ingredients shown in Table 3 below was also applied onto the rubbed Strat-M membrane at an amount of 5 mg / cm2. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients in Table 3 are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.
[0363] Table 3
[0364] After 16 hours, 200 pl of the receiving solution was withdrawn from the receptor part, while providing the same amount of a new receiving solution to the receptor part to maintain the same penetration conditions. The withdrawn receiving solution was analyzed by HPLC to determine the amount of the skin care active ingredient (hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) in the receiving solution.
[0365] The results are shown in the line of “Penetration Amount of Active Ingredient” in Table 4 below.
[0366] Table 4
[0367] (Skin Finish)
[0368] Six professional panelists evaluated “skin finish” in accordance with the level of greasiness or oiliness.
[0369] As the first step, each panelist applied the compositions according to Example A in an amount of 1 g onto the skin. One minute later, they evaluated “skin finish” by scoring it from 1 (very poor) to 5 (very good).
[0370] Next, as the second step, each panelist applied each of the compositions according to Example B-C and Comparative Example B in an amount of 1 g onto the skin. One minute later, they evaluated “skin finish” by scoring it 1 (very poor), 2 (poor), 3 (neutral), 4 (good), or 5 (very good).
[0371] The results are shown in the lines of “First Step” and “Second Step” in Table 5 below.
[0372] Table 5
[0373] Ex. 1 in Table 5 means a combination of the first step for applying the composition according to Example A and of the second step of applying the composition according to Example B.
[0374] Ex. 2 in Table 5 means a combination of the first step for applying the composition according to Example A and of the second step of applying the composition according to Example C.
[0375] Comp. Ex. 1 in Table 5 means a combination of the first step for applying the composition according to Example A and of the second step of applying the composition according to Comparative Example B.
[0376] (Summary)
[0377] The composition according to Example A in Table 1 corresponds to the first composition in the process according to the present invention.
[0378] The compositions according to Examples B and C in Table 2, as well as the composition in Table 3, correspond to the second composition in the process according to the present invention.
[0379] As shown in Table 4, by using the composition according to Example A including glucono lactone as the (a) peeling agent, the penetration of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol as the (b) skin care active ingredient was enhanced or improved, as compared to using the composition according to Comparative Example 4 including no peeling agent.
[0380] Furthermore, as shown in Table 5, the process performed in accordance with Example 1 or Example 2 was able to provide good skin finish with reduced greasiness or oiliness because the amount of water in the second composition was 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition. On the other hand, the process performed in accordance with Comparative Example 1 could not provide good skin finish because the amount of water in the second composition was less than 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
Claims
CLAIMS1. A process for treating skin, comprising the steps of:(1) applying onto the skin a first composition, comprising:(a) at least one peeling agent, and(2) applying onto the skin a second composition, comprising:(b) at least one skin care active ingredient; and(c) water wherein the first composition is anhydrous, and the amount of the (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
2. The process according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) peeling agent is selected from mechanical peeling agents, preferably selected from water-soluble particles, and more preferably water-soluble polysaccharide particles such as sucrose particles.
3. The process according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) peeling agent is selected from chemical peeling agents, preferably selected from polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably polyhydroxy acids in the form of a lactone such as gluconolactone.
4. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the (a) peeling agent(s) in the first composition is from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1%o to 10%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
5. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the first composition further comprises (d) at least one oil other than a fatty alcohol.
6. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the first composition further comprises (e) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent selected from urethane polymers.
7. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the first composition further comprises (f) at least one fatty alcohol.
8. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the (b) skin care active ingredient is selected from skin lightening agents, skin antiaging agents, skin hydrating agents, and mixtures thereof.
9. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the (b) skin care active ingredient is selected from the group consisting of C-glycoside derivatives, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof such as sodium hyaluronate, and mixtures thereof.
10. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the (b) skin care active ingredient is selected from the group consisting of C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n- propan-2-one; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; 1 -(C-beta-D- glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2- hydroxypropane; 1 -(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 1 -(C-alpha-D- glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propan- 2' -one; 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one; l-(acetamido-C- beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D- glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; and salts thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and optical isomers thereof, preferably, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxypropane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and more preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.
11. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the amount of the (b) skin care active ingredient(s) in the second composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
12. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, further comprising a step of massaging or rubbing the skin between step (1) and step (2).
13. A kit for treating skin, comprising:(1) a first compartment comprising a first composition, comprising:(a) at least one peeling agent, and(2) a second compartment comprising a second composition, comprising: (b) at least one skin care active ingredient; and(c) water wherein the first composition is anhydrous, and the amount of the (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
14. The kit according to Claim 13, wherein the (a) peeling agent is selected from mechanical peeling agents, preferably selected from water-soluble particles, and more preferably water-soluble polysaccharide particles such as sucrose particles.
15. The kit according to Claim 13, wherein the (a) peeling agent is selected from chemical peeling agents, preferably selected from polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably polyhydroxy acids in the form of a lactone such as gluconolactone.
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