Cosmetic material composition having liquid crystal structure with oval or amorphous oil particles
The cosmetic composition with olivate and oleate series surfactants and higher alcohols forms flexible oval or amorphous oil particles, enhancing skin moisturizing and retention, addressing the limitations of traditional liquid crystal emulsions.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/KR2025/012388
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-08-16
- Filing Date
- 2025-08-14
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-19
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions with liquid crystal emulsions lack improved skin moisturizing function and flexibility.
A cosmetic composition with a liquid crystal structure is developed, comprising surfactants of the olivate and oleate series, higher alcohols, and liquid crystal-forming surfactants, forming oval or amorphous oil particles to enhance flexibility and mimic intercellular lipids of skin keratinocytes, providing deep moisturizing, immediate elasticity, and improved moisture retention.
The composition exhibits a five-fold deep moisturizing function, immediate moisturizing elasticity, soothing skin damage, and excellent moisture protection, surpassing existing liquid crystal emulsions.
Smart Images

Figure KR2025012388_19022026_PF_FP_ABST
Abstract
Description
Cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure having oval or amorphous oil particles
[0001] This patent application claims priority to Republic of Korea Patent Application No. 10-2024-0109803, filed with the Korean Intellectual Property Office on August 16, 2024, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference.
[0002] The present invention relates to a multilamellar liquid crystal type cosmetic composition based on oval or amorphous oil particles with increased flexibility, and to a liquid crystal type cosmetic composition in which efficacy is maximized through the synergistic effect of a liquid crystal similar to the intercellular lipid of skin keratinocytes and flexible oil particles.
[0003] Liquid crystal technology is a representative technology that enhances efficacy through formulation characteristics in cosmetics. Liquid crystals are an intermediate state that simultaneously exhibits both solid and liquid properties within a specific temperature or concentration range. They are typically formed by organic molecules that possess both hydrophilic and lipophilic portions, with the hydrophilic portions aligned with the hydrophilic portions and the lipophilic portions aligned with the lipophilic portions, forming a lamellar structure with multiple layers. Liquid crystals have a structure similar to the composition of interstitial lipids in biological cell membranes, which allows them to form a protective barrier on the skin and provide excellent moisturizing properties, while also enabling the stable transdermal delivery of active ingredients. In particular, the lamellar structure of liquid crystals has the characteristics of preventing water loss to the outside and retaining moisture in the body, making them a crucial element in skin hydration.
[0004] However, there is a need to develop a cosmetic composition with a liquid crystal structure that has an improved skin moisturizing function compared to existing liquid crystal emulsions.
[0005] Accordingly, the inventors of the present invention have developed a cosmetic composition with maximized efficacy through the synergistic effect of oil particles that can become oval or amorphous due to increased flexibility and liquid crystals similar to interstitial lipids of skin keratinocytes by increasing the flexibility of oil particles using surfactants of the olivate and oleate series.
[0006] Accordingly, the purpose of the present invention is to provide an emulsion cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure, which comprises at least one surfactant of the olivate and oleate series; a higher alcohol; and a liquid crystal-forming surfactant, and has oval or amorphous oil particles.
[0007] Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure having oval or amorphous oil particles, the method comprising the steps of: adding a first oil phase comprising a liquid crystal-forming surfactant to an aqueous phase comprising water and a polyol and emulsifying the first oil phase; and adding a second oil phase comprising at least one of olivate and oleate-based surfactants and a higher alcohol to the aqueous phase and emulsifying the second oil phase.
[0008] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure having oval or amorphous oil particles with increased flexibility formed by at least one surfactant of the olivate and oleate series; a higher alcohol; and a liquid crystal-forming surfactant, and through a synergistic effect of a liquid crystal similar to the intercellular lipid of skin keratinocytes and flexible oil particles, the cosmetic composition has a five-fold deep moisturizing function, immediate moisturizing elasticity, a soothing effect on skin damage caused by physical stimulation, and improved moisture retention ability, and an excellent moisture protection film-forming effect, compared to existing liquid crystal emulsions.
[0009] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
[0010] One aspect of the present invention is a cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure comprising at least one surfactant from the olivate and oleate series; a higher alcohol; and a liquid crystal-forming surfactant, and having oval or amorphous oil particles.
[0011] In one embodiment of the present invention, the olivate series surfactant may be an ester of the following two compounds:
[0012] Fatty acids or olive acid derived from olive oil; and
[0013] Alcohols having 10 to 25 carbon atoms, sorbitol, or hexitol anhydride.
[0014] In one embodiment of the present invention, the oleate series surfactant may be an ester of the following two compounds:
[0015] Oleic acid; and
[0016] Alcohols having 10 to 25 carbon atoms, sorbitol, or hexitol anhydride.
[0017] In the present invention, the olivate and oleate series surfactant is at least one selected from the group consisting of cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate, sorbitan oleate, glyceryl oleate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, and sorbitan sesquioleate, but is not necessarily limited thereto.
[0018] When forming a liquid crystal using the above olivate and oleate series surfactants, a liquid crystal structure having oval or amorphous oil particles with increased flexibility can be formed, rather than a liquid crystal structure having conventional spherical oil particles.
[0019] In the present invention, the olivate and oleate series surfactants may be included in an amount of 0.1 to 15 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0020] In one embodiment of the present invention, at least one of the olivate and oleate series surfactants is present in an amount of 0.1 to 15 wt%, 0.1 to 12 wt%, 0.1 to 10 wt%, 0.1 to 8 wt%, 0.1 to 7 wt%, 0.1 to 6 wt%, 0.1 to 4 wt%, 0.1 to 3 wt%, 0.5 to 15 wt%, 0.5 to 12 wt%, 0.5 to 10 wt%, 0.5 to 8 wt%, 0.5 to 7 wt%, 0.5 to 6 wt%, 0.5 to 4 wt%, 0.5 to 3 wt%, 1 to 15 wt%, 1 to 12 wt%, 1 to 10 wt%, 1 to 8 wt%, 1 to 7 wt% % by weight, 1 to 6 wt%, 1 to 4 wt%, 1 to 3 wt%, 2 to 15 wt%, 2 to 12 wt%, 2 to 10 wt%, 2 to 8 wt%, 2 to 7 wt%, 2 to 6 wt%, 2 to 4 wt%, 2 to 3 wt%, 3 to 15 wt%, 3 to 12 wt%, 3 to 10 wt%, 3 to 8 wt%, 3 to 7 wt%, 3 to 6 wt%, 4 to 15 wt%, 4 to 12 wt%, 4 to 10 wt%, 4 to 8 wt%, 4 to 7 wt%, or 4 to 6 wt%, for example, 1.5 to 3.5 wt%, 1.5 to 3 wt%, 1.5 to 2.5 wt%, 1.5 to 2 wt%, 2 It may be included in an amount of 3.5 wt%, 2 wt% to 3 wt%, or 2 wt% to 2.5 wt%.
[0021] In the present invention, the higher alcohol may be at least one selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, C12-16 alcohol, and C14-22 alcohol, and may be specifically cetearyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol, but is not necessarily limited thereto.
[0022] In the present invention, the higher alcohol may be included in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0023] In one embodiment of the present invention, the higher alcohol may be included in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt%, 0.1 to 5 wt%, 0.1 to 4 wt%, 0.1 to 3 wt%, 0.1 to 2 wt%, 0.1 to 1.5 wt%, 0.1 to 1 wt%, 0.5 to 10 wt%, 0.5 to 5 wt%, 0.5 to 4 wt%, 0.5 to 3 wt%, 0.5 to 2 wt%, 0.5 to 1.5 wt%, or 0.5 to 1 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0024] In the present invention, the liquid crystal forming surfactant may be at least one selected from the group consisting of C12-C20 alkyl glucoside, hydrogenated lecithin, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 behenate, cetearyl glucoside, and polyglyceryl-3 distearate, and specifically, may be at least one of C12-C20 alkyl glucoside and hydrogenated lecithin, but is not necessarily limited thereto.
[0025] In the present invention, the liquid crystal forming surfactant may be included in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0026] In one embodiment of the present invention, the liquid crystal forming surfactant is present in an amount of 0.01 to 9 wt%, 0.05 to 9 wt%, 0.1 to 9 wt%, 0.5 to 9 wt%, 1 to 9 wt%, 3 to 9 wt%, 5 to 9 wt%, 7 to 9 wt%, 0.01 to 7 wt%, 0.05 to 7 wt%, 0.1 to 7 wt%, 0.5 to 7 wt%, 1 to 7 wt%, 3 to 7 wt%, 5 to 7 wt%, 0.01 to 5 wt%, 0.05 to 5 wt%, 0.1 to 5 wt%, 0.5 to 5 wt%, 1 to 5 wt%, 3 to 5 wt%, 0.01 to 3 wt%, 0.05 to 3 % by weight, 0.1 to 3 wt%, 0.5 to 3 wt%, 1 to 3 wt%, 0.01 to 2 wt%, 0.05 to 2 wt%, 0.1 to 2 wt%, 0.5 to 2 wt%, 1 to 2 wt%, 0.01 to 1 wt% or 0.05 to 1 wt%. The olivate and oleate series surfactants may form ellipsoidal or amorphous liquid crystals when the sum of the contents of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan oleate is 1 wt% or more.
[0027] In the present invention, the composition may contain more of the olivate series surfactant than the oleate series surfactant.
[0028] In the present invention, the ratio of the olivate and oleate series surfactants may be 1:1 to 10:1, 1:1 to 9:1, 1:1 to 8:1, 1:1 to 7:1, 1:1 to 6:1, 1:1 to 5:1, 1:1 to 4:1, 1:1 to 3:1, 1:1 to 2:1, 2:1 to 10:1, 2:1 to 9:1, 2:1 to 8:1, 2:1 to 7:1, 2:1 to 6:1, 2:1 to 5:1, 2:1 to 4:1, or 2:1 to 3:1.
[0029] In the present invention, the surfactants of the olivate and oleate series are cetearyl olivate and sorbitan oleate, and the ratio of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan oleate may be 2:1 to 5:1, or 3:1 to 5:1.
[0030] In the present invention, when the oil particles are oval, the ratio of the vertical diameter and the horizontal diameter of the oval may be 1:1.01 to 1:5, 1:1.1 to 1:5, 1:1.2 to 1:5, 1:1.3 to 1:5, 1:1.01 to 1:4, 1:1.1 to 1:4, 1:1.2 to 1:4, 1:1.3 to 1:4, 1:1.01 to 1:3, 1:1.1 to 1:3, 1:1.2 to 1:3, 1:1.3 to 1:3, 1:1.01 to 1:2, 1:1.1 to 1:2, 1:1.2 to 1:2, or 1:1.3 to 1:2, and 1.01:1 to 5:1, 1.1:1 to 5:1, 1.2:1 to 5:1, 1.3:1 to 5:1, 1.01:1 to 4:1, 1.1:1 to 4:1, 1.2:1 to 4:1, 1.3:1 to 4:1, 1.01:1 to 3:1, 1.1:1 to 3:1, 1.2:1 to 3:1, 1.3:1 to 3:1, 1.01:1 to 2:1, 1.1:1 to 2:1, 1.2:1 to 2:1, or 1.3:1 to 2:1.
[0031] As used herein, the term "elliptical" means that a structure has a two-dimensional or three-dimensional shape in the form of an ellipse with a major axis and a minor axis when observed with an electron microscope (e.g., TEM or SEM) or a polarizing microscope. This generally includes a case where it has an elongated shape rather than a spherical shape, and the shape is relatively constant. As used herein, the "elliptical" structure encompasses a case where the lamellar liquid crystals have a regular layered arrangement, while the individual liquid crystal domains are distributed in an elliptical shape. For example, an elliptical liquid crystal may have a major axis to minor axis ratio of 1.01:1 to 5:1. As used herein, "elliptical" may mean a shape other than a circle or an amorphous shape.
[0032] As used herein, the term "amorphous" refers to a structure having an irregular external shape without a clear shape or crystal structure. When observed under an electron microscope or polarizing microscope, no specific geometric shape or symmetry is observed, and this includes cases where, even if a lamellar structure exists, its arrangement is random or irregularly distributed. As used herein, the "amorphous" structure encompasses cases where lamellar liquid crystals exist in an irregular shape without a uniform pattern or orientation. As used herein, "amorphous" may refer to a shape other than circular or oval.
[0033] At this time, while most existing liquid crystals are known to be circular, the liquid crystal of the present invention deviates from the circular shape by being flexible, and therefore the terms "elliptical" and "amorphous" may be used to describe the flexibility of the present invention. In addition, the liquid crystal-forming surfactant of the present invention may be interposed between olivate and oleate series surfactants to form elliptical or amorphous liquid crystal oil particles.
[0034] In the present invention, the term "polyol" means a compound containing at least two hydroxyl groups (-OH), which can play an important role in moisturizing by forming a film on the skin to prevent moisture from evaporating.
[0035] In the present invention, the cosmetic composition may additionally include at least one polyol selected from the group consisting of glycerin, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, propanediol, methylpropanediol, and diglycerin.
[0036] In the present invention, the polyol may be included in an amount of 0.1 to 40 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0037] In one embodiment of the present invention, the polyol is present in an amount of 0.1 to 40 wt%, 0.1 to 35 wt%, 0.1 to 30 wt%, 0.1 to 25 wt%, 0.1 to 20 wt%, 0.1 to 10 wt%, 10 to 40 wt%, 10 to 35 wt%, 10 to 30 wt%, 10 to 25 wt%, 10 to 20 wt%, 15 to 40 wt%, 15 to 35 wt%, 15 to 30 wt%, 15 to 25 wt%, 20 to 40 wt%, 20 to 35 wt%, 20 to 30 wt%, 20 to 29 wt%, 20 to 28 wt%, 20 to 27 wt%, 25 to 40 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It may be comprised in an amount of, but is not necessarily limited to, 25 to 30 wt%, 25 to 29 wt%, 25 to 28 wt%, or 25 to 27 wt%.
[0038] In the present invention, the cosmetic composition may additionally include at least one selected from the group consisting of a thickener, oil, and preservative.
[0039] In the present invention, the term “thickening agent” means an ingredient used to maintain the viscosity and stability of a cosmetic composition.
[0040] In one embodiment of the present invention, the thickener may be at least one selected from the group consisting of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, carbomer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-11, sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, and acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, but is not necessarily limited thereto.
[0041] In one embodiment of the present invention, the thickener may be included in an amount of 0.01 to 2 wt%, 0.01 to 1 wt%, 0.1 to 2 wt%, or 0.1 to 1 wt%, for example, 0.5 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0042] In one embodiment of the present invention, the oil may be at least one selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, cetyl ethylhexanoate, ethylhexyl stearate, cetyl hexanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, ethylhexyl palmitate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, coco-caprylate / caprate, octyldodecanol, olive oil, grape seed oil, macadamia oil, squalene, jojoba oil, castor oil, and sunflower seed oil, but is not necessarily limited thereto.
[0043] In one embodiment of the present invention, the oil may be included in an amount of 1 to 15 wt%, 1 to 10 wt%, 1 to 5 wt%, 5 to 15 wt%, 5 to 10 wt%, or 10 to 15 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0044] In the present invention, the term “preservative” means an ingredient used to prevent deterioration of a cosmetic composition and maintain its purity.
[0045] In one embodiment of the present invention, the preservative is at least one selected from the group consisting of ethylhexylglycerin, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-hexanediol, sodium benzoate, benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, glyceryl caprylate, caprylhydroxamic acid, and hydroxyacetophenone, but is not necessarily limited thereto.
[0046] In one embodiment of the present invention, the preservative may be included in an amount of 0.001 to 4 wt%, 0.001 to 1 wt%, 0.001 to 0.1 wt%, 0.01 to 4 wt%, 0.01 to 1 wt%, or 0.01 to 0.1 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0047] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise not only one or more of the above-described olivate and oleate series surfactants; higher alcohols; and liquid crystal forming surfactants, but also components commonly used in cosmetic compositions, and for example, may further comprise one or more selected from the group consisting of skin conditioning agents, pH adjusting agents, metal ion sequestering agents, fragrances, additives, stabilizers, solubilizers, vitamins, and pigments, but is not necessarily limited thereto.
[0048] The above skin conditioning agent may be at least one selected from the group consisting of sodium lactate, panthenol, and allantoin, but is not necessarily limited thereto.
[0049] The above pH adjusting agent is at least one selected from the group consisting of tromethamine and aminomethylpropanediol, but is not necessarily limited thereto.
[0050] The above metal ion sequestering agent may be, but is not necessarily limited to, disodium EDTA.
[0051] The above fragrance may be one or more selected from the group consisting of artificial fragrances, essential oils, and plant-derived extracts with strong fragrances, but is not necessarily limited thereto.
[0052] The above additive may be for improving the feel of use or may be silica, but is not necessarily limited thereto.
[0053] Another aspect of the present invention comprises the steps of: a) adding a first oil phase comprising a liquid crystal forming surfactant to an aqueous phase comprising water and a polyol and emulsifying the same; and
[0054] b) a step of adding a second oil phase comprising at least one of the surfactants of the olivate and oleate series and a higher alcohol to the water phase and emulsifying the water phase;
[0055] A method for producing a cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure having oval or amorphous oil particles including .
[0056] By the above steps a) and b), the liquid crystal forming surfactant can be interposed between the surfactants of the olivate and oleate series to form oval or amorphous liquid crystal oil particles.
[0057] In one embodiment of the present invention, the manufacturing method further includes a dispersing step of dispersing an aqueous phase containing water and polyol at 50 to 90°C, 50 to 80°C, 50 to 70°C, 60 to 90°C, 60 to 80°C, 60 to 70°C, 70 to 90°C or 70 to 80°C, for example, 70°C, before step a).
[0058] In one embodiment of the present invention, the dispersing step is performed for 1 to 20 minutes, 1 to 15 minutes, 1 to 10 minutes, 5 to 20 minutes, 5 to 15 minutes, 5 to 10 minutes, or 10 to 20 minutes, for example, 10 minutes.
[0059] In one embodiment of the present invention, the manufacturing method may further include a step of adding a thickener to the aqueous phase after the dispersing step and dispersing the thickener for 1 to 10 minutes, 1 to 5 minutes, or 5 to 10 minutes.
[0060] In one embodiment of the present invention, a step of additionally adding a thickener to the aqueous phase and then heating to 70 to 100°C, 70 to 90°C, 80 to 100°C, or 80 to 90°C, for example, 85°C, to dissolve the thickener may be additionally included.
[0061] In one embodiment of the present invention, step a) is performed at 1,000 to 15,000 rpm, 1,000 to 12,000 rpm, 1,000 to 10,000 rpm, 1,000 to 8,000 rpm, 2,000 to 15,000 rpm, 2,000 to 12,000 rpm, 2,000 to 10,000 rpm, 2,000 to 8,000 rpm, 4,000 to 15,000 rpm, 4,000 to 12,000 rpm, 4,000 to 10,000 rpm, 4,000 to 8,000 rpm, 6,000 to 15,000 rpm, 6,000 to It can be done at 12,000 rpm, 6,000 to 10,000 rpm, or 6,000 to 8,000 rpm, for example 7,000 rpm.
[0062] In one embodiment of the present invention, step a) may be performed for 1 minute to 10 minutes, 1 minute to 5 minutes, 5 minutes to 10 minutes, or 4 minutes to 6 minutes.
[0063] In one embodiment of the present invention, step a) may further include a step of maintaining at 15°C to 30°C, 15°C to 25°C, 15°C to 20°C, 20°C to 30°C, 20°C to 25°C, or 25°C to 30°C, for example, at room temperature for 1 minute to 10 minutes, 1 minute to 5 minutes, 5 minutes to 10 minutes, or 4 minutes to 6 minutes.
[0064] In one embodiment of the present invention, step b) is performed at 1,000 to 15,000 rpm, 1,000 to 12,000 rpm, 1,000 to 10,000 rpm, 1,000 to 8,000 rpm, 2,000 to 15,000 rpm, 2,000 to 12,000 rpm, 2,000 to 10,000 rpm, 2,000 to 8,000 rpm, 4,000 to 15,000 rpm, 4,000 to 12,000 rpm, 4,000 to 10,000 rpm, 4,000 to 8,000 rpm, 6,000 to 15,000 rpm, 6,000 to It can be done at 12,000 rpm, 6,000 to 10,000 rpm, or 6,000 to 8,000 rpm, for example 7,000 rpm.
[0065] In one embodiment of the present invention, step b) may be performed for 1 minute to 10 minutes, 1 minute to 5 minutes, 5 minutes to 10 minutes, or 4 minutes to 6 minutes.
[0066] In one embodiment of the present invention, the manufacturing method may additionally include a preservative adding step of adding water and a preservative after step b).
[0067] In one embodiment of the present invention, the preservative introduction step may be performed at 30 to 60°C, 30 to 55°C, 30 to 50°C, 35 to 60°C, 35 to 55°C, 35 to 50°C, 40 to 60°C, 40 to 55°C, 40 to 50°C or 40 to 45°C, for example, 45°C.
[0068] In one embodiment of the present invention, the manufacturing method comprises, after the preservative-injecting step, spinning the cosmetic composition at 1,000 to 15,000 rpm, 1,000 to 12,000 rpm, 1,000 to 10,000 rpm, 1,000 to 8,000 rpm, 2,000 to 15,000 rpm, 2,000 to 12,000 rpm, 2,000 to 10,000 rpm, 2,000 to 8,000 rpm, 4,000 to 15,000 rpm, 4,000 to 12,000 rpm, 4,000 to 10,000 rpm, 4,000 to 8,000 rpm, 6,000 to 15,000 rpm, The method may further include an emulsifying step at 6,000 to 12,000 rpm, 6,000 to 10,000 rpm, or 6,000 to 8,000 rpm, for example, 7,000 rpm, for 10 seconds to 5 minutes, 10 seconds to 3 minutes, 10 seconds to 1 minute, 30 seconds to 5 minutes, 30 seconds to 3 minutes, 30 seconds to 2 minutes, or 30 seconds to 1 minute, for example, 1 minute.
[0069] In one embodiment of the present invention, the first oil phase may include a liquid crystal forming surfactant and oil.
[0070] In one embodiment of the present invention, the second oil phase may include at least one of an olivate and an oleate series surfactant, a higher alcohol, and an oil.
[0071] In one embodiment of the present invention, the water component may include water and polyol.
[0072] In one embodiment of the present invention, the olivate series surfactant may be an ester of the following two compounds:
[0073] Fatty acids or olive acid derived from olive oil; and
[0074] Alcohols having 10 to 25 carbon atoms, sorbitol, or hexitol anhydride.
[0075] In one embodiment of the present invention, the oleate series surfactant may be an ester of the following two compounds:
[0076] Oleic acid; and
[0077] Alcohols having 10 to 25 carbon atoms, sorbitol, or hexitol anhydride.
[0078] In the present invention, the olivate and oleate series surfactant is at least one selected from the group consisting of cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate, sorbitan oleate, glyceryl oleate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, and sorbitan sesquioleate, but is not necessarily limited thereto.
[0079] In the present invention, the olivate and oleate series surfactants are included in an amount of 0.1 to 15 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0080] In the present invention, the higher alcohol is at least one selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, C12-16 alcohol, and C14-22 alcohol, but is not necessarily limited thereto.
[0081] In the present invention, the higher alcohol is included in an amount of 0.1 to 5 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0082] In one embodiment of the present invention, the higher alcohol may be included in an amount of 0.1 to 5 wt%, 0.1 to 4 wt%, 0.1 to 3 wt%, 0.1 to 2 wt%, or 0.1 to 1 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0083] In the present invention, the liquid crystal forming surfactant may be at least one selected from the group consisting of C12-C20 alkyl glucoside, hydrogenated lecithin, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 behenate, cetearyl glucoside, and polyglyceryl-3 distearate, but is not necessarily limited thereto.
[0084] In the present invention, the liquid crystal forming surfactant may be included in an amount of 0.1 to 5 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0085] In the present invention, the composition may contain more of the olivate series surfactant than the oleate series surfactant.
[0086] In the present invention, the ratio of the olivate and oleate series surfactants may be 1:1 to 10:1, 1:1 to 9:1, 1:1 to 8:1, 1:1 to 7:1, 1:1 to 6:1, 1:1 to 5:1, 1:1 to 4:1, 1:1 to 3:1, 1:1 to 2:1, 2:1 to 10:1, 2:1 to 9:1, 2:1 to 8:1, 2:1 to 7:1, 2:1 to 6:1, 2:1 to 5:1, 2:1 to 4:1, or 2:1 to 3:1.
[0087] In the present invention, the olivate and oleate series surfactants are cetearyl olivate and sorbitan oleate, and the ratio of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan oleate may be 2:1 to 5:1, or 3:1 to 5:1. In the present invention, the polyol may be at least one selected from the group consisting of glycerin, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, propanediol, methylpropanediol, and diglycerin, but is not necessarily limited thereto.
[0088] In the present invention, the polyol may be included in an amount of 0.1 to 40 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0089] In the present invention, the cosmetic composition may additionally include at least one selected from the group consisting of a thickener, oil, and preservative.
[0090] In one embodiment of the present invention, the thickener is at least one selected from the group consisting of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, carbomer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-11, sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, and acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, but is not necessarily limited thereto.
[0091] In one embodiment of the present invention, the thickener may be included in an amount of 0.01 to 2 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0092] In one embodiment of the present invention, the oil may be at least one selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, cetyl ethylhexanoate, ethylhexyl stearate, cetyl hexanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, ethylhexyl palmitate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, coco-caprylate / caprate, octyldodecanol, olive oil, grape seed oil, macadamia oil, squalene, jojoba oil, castor oil, and sunflower seed oil, but is not necessarily limited thereto.
[0093] In one embodiment of the present invention, the oil may be included in an amount of 1 to 15 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0094] In one embodiment of the present invention, the preservative may be at least one selected from the group consisting of ethylhexylglycerin, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-hexanediol, sodium benzoate, benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, glyceryl caprylate, caprylhydroxamic acid, and hydroxyacetophenone, but is not necessarily limited thereto.
[0095] In one embodiment of the present invention, the preservative may be included in an amount of 0.001 to 4 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0096] The method for producing a cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure having oval or amorphous oil particles according to the present invention includes the same components as the cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure having oval or amorphous oil particles, which is another embodiment of the present invention described above, and therefore, in order to avoid excessive complexity of the description of the present specification, the overlapping contents are cited and the description thereof is omitted.
[0097] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure having oval or amorphous oil particles with increased flexibility formed by at least one surfactant of the olivate and oleate series; a higher alcohol; and a liquid crystal-forming surfactant. The cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure according to the present invention exhibits a synergistic effect of a liquid crystal similar to the intercellular lipid of skin keratinocytes and flexible oil particles, thereby exhibiting an improved five-layer deep moisturizing function, immediate moisturizing elasticity, a soothing effect on skin damage caused by physical stimulation, and moisture retention ability compared to existing liquid crystal emulsions, and has an excellent moisture protection film-forming effect.
[0098] FIG. 1a is a diagram showing polarizing microscope and optical microscope images of cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 to 5, according to one embodiment of the present invention, in which oval or amorphous liquid crystal oil particles are confirmed.
[0099] FIG. 1b is a diagram showing ellipsoidal liquid crystal oil particles confirmed by polarization and optical microscope images of the cosmetic composition of Example 3 according to one embodiment of the present invention.
[0100] FIG. 1c is a diagram showing amorphous liquid crystal oil particles confirmed by polarization and optical microscope images of the cosmetic composition of Example 5 according to one embodiment of the present invention.
[0101] FIG. 1d is a diagram showing polarized and optical microscope images of the cosmetic composition of Comparative Example 1, confirming that liquid crystal oil particles were not formed, according to one embodiment of the present invention.
[0102] FIG. 1e is a diagram showing circular liquid crystal oil particles confirmed by polarization and optical microscope images of the cosmetic composition of Comparative Example 2 according to one embodiment of the present invention.
[0103] FIG. 2 is a diagram showing, according to one embodiment of the present invention, a cosmetic composition of Example 4, compared to Comparative Example 2, showing an excellent five-layer moisturizing care effect, as confirmed through skin moisture measurement.
[0104] FIG. 3 is a diagram showing a result of a stain-prevention test in which it was confirmed that the cosmetic composition of Example 4 exhibits excellent immediate moisturizing elasticity compared to Comparative Example 2, according to one embodiment of the present invention.
[0105] FIG. 4 is a diagram showing a moisture coating test that confirmed that a strong moisture protective film was formed when the cosmetic composition of Example 4 was applied compared to a non-coated one according to one embodiment of the present invention.
[0106] FIG. 5 is a diagram showing the results of a skin soothing test using physical stimulation to confirm the immediate skin soothing effect when the cosmetic composition of Example 4 is applied compared to the uncoated and comparative examples 2 according to one embodiment of the present invention, and the rate of recovery from redness is investigated.
[0107] FIG. 6 is a diagram showing the results of an 8-hour moisturizing duration test, which confirmed that the cosmetic compositions of Examples 4 and 5 exhibited strong moisture retention power compared to Comparative Examples 1 and 2, according to one embodiment of the present invention.
[0108] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure, comprising at least one surfactant of the olivate and oleate series; a higher alcohol; and a liquid crystal-forming surfactant.
[0109] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples. However, these examples are only intended to illustrate the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited by these examples.
[0110] Throughout this specification, "%" used to indicate the concentration of a particular substance is (wt / wt)% for solid / solid, (wt / vol)% for solid / liquid, and (vol / vol)% for liquid / liquid, unless otherwise stated.
[0111]
[0112] Manufacturing example: Manufacturing of an emulsion cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure
[0113] An emulsion cosmetic composition including an aqueous phase and an oil phase was prepared according to the composition and content (weight %) presented in Table 1 below.
[0114] Specifically, after measuring the aqueous phase, it was heated to 70℃ and evenly dispersed for 10 minutes with an agi-mixer, and then a thickener was added to the aqueous phase and evenly dispersed for 5 minutes with an agi-mixer. The first oil phase, which was heated to 85℃ and evenly dissolved, was added to the aqueous phase and emulsified for 5 minutes with a homo-mixer at 7,000 rpm. Next, the second oil phase was added and maintained at room temperature for 5 minutes after emulsification so that the main surfactant is located at the interface. The main surfactant may be a C12-20 alkyl glucoside of the first oil phase, or cetearyl olivate or sorbitan oleate of the second oil phase. Next, the second oil phase was added to the aqueous phase and emulsified for 5 minutes with a homo-mixer at 7,000 rpm. After emulsification, when the temperature of the emulsion solution was 45°C, water correction and preservative were added, and emulsification was performed at 7,000 rpm for 1 minute to prepare cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2.
[0115] Classification Composition / Content (% by weight) Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Water phase To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 Glycerin 20 20 20 20 10 20 20 Butylene glycol 3 3 3 3 3 Pentylene glycol 2 2 2 2 2 2 1, 2-hexanediol 1. 5 1. 5 1. 5 1. 5 1. 5 1. 5 Thickener Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer 0. 5 0. 5 0. 5 0. 5 0. 5 0. 5 1 C12-20 alkyl glucoside 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.500 hydrogenated lecithin 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.0500 cetyl ethyl hexanoate 3333300 2nd Oily Cetearyl Olivate 11.522.52.500 Sorbitan Oleate 0.50.50.50.5100 Cetearyl Alcohol 0.50.50.50.50.512.5 Cetyl Alcohol 0.50.50.50.50.51.50.5 Polyglyceryl-3 Methyl Glucose Distearate 000002.50 Cetearyl Glucoside 0000002.5 Glyceryl Stearate 000000.40.4 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 4444444 Cetyl Ethylhexanoate 0000033 Preservative Ethylhexylglycerin 0.050.050.050.050.050.050.05
[0116] In the above Table 1, the first oil phase may include at least one liquid crystal forming surfactant selected from the group consisting of C12-C20 alkyl glucoside, hydrogenated lecithin, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 behenate, cetearyl glucoside, and polyglyceryl-3 distearate, and in this example, C12-C20 alkyl glucoside and hydrogenated lecithin were selected as the liquid crystal forming surfactant.
[0117] When flexible surfactants and liquid crystal-forming surfactants of the olivate and oleate series are used in combination with higher alcohols, ellipsoidal or amorphous liquid crystal oil particles with enhanced flexibility are formed compared to the oil particles of conventional liquid crystal emulsions. These particles act as skin mimics, and their skin affinity is increased compared to conventional liquid crystal emulsions, resulting in enhanced skin absorption. This was confirmed through the following experimental examples.
[0118]
[0119] Experimental Example 1: Observation of the shape of liquid crystal oil particles
[0120] In the cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 prepared in the above manufacturing examples, it was confirmed whether liquid crystal oil particles in a four-directional cross pattern were formed using a polarizing and optical microscope (OLYMPUS BX51, U-POT polarizing lens) at a magnification of 200 times, and the shape of the formed liquid crystal oil particles was observed.
[0121] In all of Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Example 2, liquid crystal oil particles in a four-directional cross pattern were formed, and in Comparative Example 1, no liquid crystal was formed. As can be seen in Fig. 1a and Table 2 below, in the cases of Examples 1 to 4, the liquid crystal was gradually formed in an elliptical shape, and the vertical / horizontal ratio could be adjusted from 1 to 1.33. In Example 5, the liquid crystal was amorphous, and when the sum of the contents of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan oleate exceeded 1 wt%, an elliptical or amorphous liquid crystal was formed. The polarizing microscope image (left) and the optical microscope image (right) of Example 3 are as shown in Fig. 1b. The polarizing microscope image (left) and the optical microscope image (right) of Example 5 are as shown in Fig. 1c.
[0122] In contrast, as can be seen in Fig. 1d, no liquid crystal was formed in Comparative Example 1 (left - polarizing microscope image, right - optical microscope image). In addition, as can be seen in Fig. 1e, in the case of Comparative Example 2, a circular liquid crystal was formed using cetearyl glucoside, a common liquid crystal-forming surfactant, as a surfactant (left - polarizing microscope image, right - optical microscope image).
[0123] Therefore, in the case of an example using a liquid crystal forming surfactant together with an olivate and oleate series surfactant, it was confirmed that oval or amorphous liquid crystal oil particles with increased flexibility were formed compared to the oil particles of a conventional liquid crystal emulsion.
[0124] Classification Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Vertical / Horizontal 11.161.231.33--1 Liquid crystal shape Circular Oval Oval Oval Amorphous-Circular
[0125]
[0126] Experimental Example 2: Excellent moisturizing care effect of 5 layers
[0127] In order to confirm the moisturizing effect of Example 4 and Comparative Example 2 prepared in the above manufacturing example, the skin moisture content of 5 layers was measured using an Epsilon (BIOX, UK) device.
[0128] After washing the test area with soap 30 minutes before the start of the test, the area was left in a constant temperature and humidity room for 10 minutes, and 0.25 ml of the cosmetic composition of Example 4 or Comparative Example 2 was evenly applied to the test area (inner side of the lower leg) and allowed to absorb, and the moisture content of the five layers of skin was measured.
[0129] The moisture content of the 5-layer was measured by applying and removing a keratin tape (B-SQUAM) 1 to 5 times (N=1 to 5). The measurements were taken three times for each application and removal of the tape, and the average was calculated.
[0130] As can be seen in FIG. 2 and Table 3 below, the skin moisture content of Example 4 relative to that of Comparative Example 2 increased by 176%, 140%, 133%, 129%, and 116% in 5 layers, respectively, and thus it was confirmed that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention exhibited an excellent deep moisturizing care effect in 5 layers.
[0131] Skin moisture content (AU) N=1 N=2 N-3 N=4 N=5 Comparative example 2 12.44 11.0 48.9 28.45 7.75 Example 4 21.97 15.5 211.93 10.69 8.99 Skin moisture content increase amount of Example 4 compared to Comparative example 2 176 % 140 % 133 % 129 % 116 %
[0132]
[0133] From the above results, it was confirmed that in the case of Example 4 having flexible oval-shaped oil particles, compared to Comparative Example 2 having spherical oil particles without using olivate and oleate series surfactants, the oil particles with increased flexibility compared to the oil particles of the existing liquid crystal emulsion acted as a skin mimic, thereby increasing skin affinity and improving the skin absorption capacity of Example 4.
[0134]
[0135] Experimental Example 3: Immediate moisturizing elasticity
[0136] In order to confirm the immediate moisturizing elasticity of Example 4 and Comparative Example 2 prepared in the above manufacturing example, a mark prevention test was performed as follows.
[0137] 30 minutes prior to the start of the test, the test area was washed with soap, and then left to stand in a constant temperature and humidity room for 10 minutes. Then, 0.18 ml of the cosmetic composition of Example 4 or Comparative Example 2 was evenly applied to the test area (inner side of the lower arm) and allowed to absorb, and then a pressure gauge (D-Squame Pressure Instrument, USA) was used to apply a certain amount of pressure to create an impression on the test area (inner side of the lower arm). Subsequently, the area was photographed using an area measuring device, Antera 3D (Miravex, UK), and the shrinkage area before and after applying pressure was calculated.
[0138] As can be seen in FIG. 3 and Table 4 below, the shrinkage area of Example 4 was about 0.41 times lower than that of Comparative Example 2, and it was confirmed that the cosmetic composition of Example 4, which has oval-shaped oil particles with increased flexibility compared to the oil particles of the existing liquid crystal emulsion, had excellent immediate moisturizing elasticity.
[0139] Comparison Example 2 Example 4 Shrinkage area (mm) 2 )0.0820.034
[0140] From the above results, it was confirmed that in the case of Example 4, which has oval-shaped oil particles with increased flexibility compared to the oil particles of the existing liquid crystal emulsion by using olivate and oleate series surfactants, not only has an excellent skin moisturizing effect, but also has excellent immediate moisturizing elasticity and a mark prevention effect.
[0141]
[0142] Experimental Example 4: Effect of forming a moisture barrier
[0143] In order to confirm the moisture protection film formation effect of Example 4 prepared in the above manufacturing example, a moisture coating power test was performed as follows.
[0144] The test area was the inner side of the forearm, and the test area was divided into a non-application area or an area to which Example 4 was applied, and the skin moisture content was measured before use, immediately after use, and after washing. Before use, the test area was washed with soap, and after waiting in a constant temperature and humidity room for 10 minutes, the skin moisture content of the test area was measured three times using an Epsilon (BiOX, UK) device. After that, 0.08 ml of the cosmetic composition of Example 4 was evenly applied to the test area and absorbed, and the skin moisture content was measured in the same way immediately after use, and the test area was washed with soap and the skin moisture content was measured again. The skin moisture content (%) immediately after use and after washing was calculated based on the skin moisture content measured before use as 100%.
[0145] Moisturizing power was calculated using the following formula: ((value after use - value before use) / value before use) * 100
[0146] In addition, the moisture coating power was calculated using the following formula: ((value after washing - value before use) / value before use) * 100
[0147] As can be seen in Fig. 4, the skin moisture content (moisturizing power) increased by 569.3% immediately after using Example 4 compared to before use, and the skin moisture content (moisture coating power) was 86.7% even after washing compared to immediately after using Example 4, confirming the excellent skin moisturizing power and moisture coating power of Example 4.
[0148]
[0149] Experimental Example 5: Immediate skin soothing effect due to physical stimulation
[0150] In order to confirm the immediate skin soothing effect of Comparative Example 2 and Example 4 prepared in the above manufacturing example, a skin soothing test by physical stimulation was performed as follows.
[0151] The test area was the inner side of the forearm, and the test area was divided into a non-application area, an application area of Comparative Example 2, and an application area of Example 4. Images were obtained using an Antera 3D (miravex, UK) device before damage, after damage, and after application, and the redness recovery rate was measured using a Mexameter (CK electronic, Germany). Before being damaged by physical stimulation, the test area was washed with soap and left in a constant temperature and humidity room for 10 minutes, and then the image of the test area was obtained. Afterwards, the skin was physically stimulated to obtain an image of the test area after damage, and then 0.08 ml of the cosmetic compositions of Comparative Example 2 and Example 4 were evenly applied to the test areas, respectively, and absorbed for 5 minutes to obtain an image of the test area. Then, the redness recovery rate was calculated using the erythema value.
[0152] As can be seen in Fig. 5, when Example 4 was applied after damage by physical stimulation, the redness recovery rate was 79%, which was compared to the redness recovery rates of 11% and 53% in the case of no application or application of Comparative Example 2, respectively, and it was confirmed that Example 4 according to the present invention had an excellent immediate skin soothing effect.
[0153]
[0154] Experimental Example 6: Moisture retention effect
[0155] In order to confirm the moisture retention effect of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 and Examples 4 and 5 prepared in the above manufacturing examples, an 8-hour moisturizing duration test was performed using a Corneometer machine, which is a moisture measuring device.
[0156] The test area (inner side of the lower arm) was washed with soap 30 minutes before the start of the test, and then left in a constant temperature and humidity room for 10 minutes. The skin moisture level of the test area without application was measured. After that, 8 ml of the cosmetic compositions of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 and Examples 4 and 5 were evenly applied to the test area and allowed to absorb. The skin moisture level was measured three times immediately after application of the product to the test area, 2 hours later, 4 hours later, and 8 hours later. The average of the three measurements was used to calculate the rate of change in skin moisture level, and the result was compared and evaluated with the value before use. The measuring device was Corneometer (CK electronic, Germany).
[0157] As a result, as can be seen in Fig. 6, it was confirmed that the skin moisture content (%) was higher immediately after use, 2 hours later, 4 hours later, and 8 hours later when Examples 4 and 5 were used compared to Comparative Examples 1 and 2.
[0158] From the above results, it was confirmed that Example 4 having oval-shaped oil particles with increased flexibility compared to the oil particles of the existing liquid crystal emulsion using an olivate and oleate series surfactant, and Example 5 having amorphous oil particles, had strong moisture retention power for 8 hours compared to Comparative Examples 1 and 2 in which liquid crystals were not formed or had general spherical oil particles. In particular, it was confirmed that in the case of oval-shaped liquid crystals like Example 4, compared to the general liquid crystal of Comparative Example 2, there was a moisture retention power that was about 5 to 10% (based on 2 to 8 hours immediately after use) better.
Claims
A cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure comprising at least one surfactant of the olivate and oleate series; a higher alcohol; and a liquid crystal forming surfactant. A cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure, wherein in claim 1, the olivate and oleate series surfactant is at least one selected from the group consisting of cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate, sorbitan oleate, glyceryl oleate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, and sorbitan sesquioleate. A cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure, wherein in claim 1, the surfactant of the olivate and oleate series is included in an amount of 0.1 to 15 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. A cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure, wherein in claim 1, the higher alcohol is at least one selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, C12-16 alcohol, and C14-22 alcohol. A cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure, wherein the higher alcohol is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition in the first paragraph. A cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure, wherein in claim 1, the liquid crystal forming surfactant is at least one selected from the group consisting of C12-C20 alkyl glucoside, hydrogenated lecithin, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 behenate, cetearyl glucoside, and polyglyceryl-3 distearate. A cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure, wherein the liquid crystal forming surfactant in claim 1 is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. A cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure, characterized in that in claim 1, the cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure has oval or amorphous oil particles. a) a step of adding and emulsifying a first oil phase containing a liquid crystal forming surfactant into an aqueous phase containing water and polyol; and b) a step of adding a second oil phase comprising at least one of the surfactants of the olivate and oleate series and a higher alcohol to the water phase and emulsifying the water phase; A method for producing a cosmetic composition having a liquid crystal structure having oval or amorphous oil particles.
Citation Information
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