Rapidly separating biphasic system

Abstract

A biphasic cosmetic product comprising sophorolipids.

Description

[0001] Fast-disconnecting two-phase system

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic two-phase product comprising sophorolipids.

[0003] Cosmetic products generally serve not only to make one look beautiful and attractive, but also contribute significantly to increased self-esteem and well-being. Consumers often apply decorative cosmetics to improve their appearance. However, these products are removed from the skin in the evening before going to bed. Cosmetic cleansing products are used for this removal; these products offer particularly effective cleansing without causing skin irritation.

[0004] A typical category of these cleaning products are cosmetic two-phase products, which are mixed by shaking before use. After use, the products separate within a short time. The presence of two separate phases is indicated to the consumer, for example, by the different colors of the phases. They consist of a specific proportion of an oil phase and a water phase.

[0005] In the area of ​​cleansing products, it has been shown that two-phase systems offer better cleaning performance, especially with waterproof makeup. Here, the effective cleansing action of oils is combined with water, which minimizes the oily residue.

[0006] To form a two-phase product, a phase containing water and a phase containing oil are required. At rest, these two phases are clearly distinguishable. Due to their different densities, these two phases do not mix spontaneously and thus form a horizontally separated two-phase system. By introducing energy, for example by shaking, the phases can be briefly mixed. However, due to the density difference and the high interfacial tension (IFS) of oil compared to water, separation back into the two phases occurs afterward.

[0007] Well-known cosmetic two-phase products are described, among others, in EP 2732805 A1.

[0008] For effective makeup removal, surfactants are necessary. However, a disadvantage is that many surfactants prolong the separation time of the horizontally separated two-phase system. Especially when the oil phase is present in a smaller proportion than the water phase, consumers often want to observe the visual effect of a clear phase separation with distinct, separate phases after mixing. However, well-known systems with alkyl glycosides, such as caprylyl / caprylglucose, exhibit an insufficiently rapid phase separation.

[0009] Consequently, the object of the invention was to provide two-phase preparations which, after mixing the phases separated in the resting position, quickly re-establish these phases and yet achieve effective cleaning performance.

[0010] The state of the art is known in DE 69531870 T2, which discloses the use of sophorolipids in cosmetic products.

[0011] Sophorolipids are special glycolipids. They can be produced by fermentation of yeasts of the Candida and Torulopsis types, as well as Torulopsis magnoliae, Candida bombicola, Candida apicola, or Candida bogoriensis.

[0012] The essential glucid of extracellular sophorolipids is sophorose (2'-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-β-D-glucopyranose). This sugar can be acetylated at the 6' and 6' positions and is linked to a fatty acid hydroxyl group at the ω or ω-1 position. The lipid fraction of sophorolipids is composed of several hydroxy fatty acids.

[0013] Patent application EP0209783A describes sophorolipids and their use as an anti-dandruff agent and bacteriostatic agent.

[0014] The present invention provided a surprising solution to the problem.

[0015] The invention is a two-phase cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising a horizontally separated two-phase system comprising an oil and an aqueous phase, characterized in that the preparation comprises at least one sophorolipid in a proportion of 0.002 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.005 to 1 wt.%, and the proportion of the oil phase is 2 to 40 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0016] Furthermore, it is preferred if the preparation is free of alkyl glucosides and / or free of benzethonium chloride.

[0017] Surprisingly for those skilled in the art, it was found that the combination according to the invention achieves rapid kinetics for the recombination of the two phases. In contrast, when other glycolipids, such as rhamnolipids or the known capylyl / capryl glucoside, are used, phase separation is significantly slower. Surprisingly, the combination according to the invention also demonstrated particularly effective cleaning performance, even when removing lipstick. Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were carried out under "normal conditions." The term "normal conditions" refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa, and a relative humidity of 50%.

[0018] The term "skin" refers exclusively to human skin.

[0019] Where weight percentages (wt%) are given below without reference to a specific composition or mixture, these percentages always refer to the total weight of the preparation. Where ratios of components / substances / groups of substances are disclosed below, these ratios refer to the weight ratios of the components / substances / groups of substances mentioned.

[0020] Where weight percentage ranges for the components of the preparation are specified below, the disclosure of the present application also includes all individual values ​​in steps of 0.1 wt.% within these weight percentage ranges.

[0021] The terms “according to the invention”, “advantageous according to the invention”, “advantageous in the sense of the present invention”, etc., always refer, within the scope of the present disclosure, to the preparation according to the invention as well as the use according to the invention and the method.

[0022] For the purposes of this disclosure, the term "free from" means that the proportion of the substance in question does not exceed 0.0001% by weight and, in particular, is 0% by weight of the total weight of the preparation. Thus, accidental introduction through impurities should not lead to exclusion from the scope of protection.

[0023] Emulsifiers are defined as all substances listed under the term “emulsifying agent” in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010 (ISBN 1-882621-47-6). Surfactants are defined as all substances listed under the term “surfactant” in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010 (ISBN 1-882621-47-6).

[0024] Any viscosity values ​​given in this disclosure refer to measurements taken at 25°C in a 150 ml wide-mouth bottle (VWR No.: 807-0001) using the Rheomat R 123 from proRheo. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, meaning that a measuring element rotates within the substance being measured. The force required to rotate the measuring element within the sample at a predetermined speed is measured. The viscosity is then calculated from this torque, the rotational speed of the measuring element, and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system. The measuring element used is No. 1 (article no. 200 0191), suitable for a viscosity range up to 10,000 mPa·s and a rotational speed of 62.5 min⁻¹.

[0025] When this disclosure refers to an average, that average always refers to arithmetic means.

[0026] Any information regarding the molecular weight of polymers provided in this disclosure refers to measurements taken by means of light scattering.

[0027] Advantageously, the at least one sophorolipid is used in a proportion of 0.005 to 0.5 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 0.2 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.02 to 0.08 wt.%, based on the total mass of the preparation.

[0028] According to the invention, it is advantageous if the total proportion of the oil phase is 2.0 to 40 wt.%, preferably 3.0 wt.% to 30 wt.%, preferably 4.0 to 20 wt.%, preferably 6.0 to 17 wt.% and in particular 7.0 to 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0029] The oil phase of the preparation according to the invention advantageously comprises one or more oils selected from the group consisting of isododecane, isohexadecane, isopropyl palmitate, undecane, C15-19 alkanes, and coco-caprylate / caprate.

[0030] It is advantageous if isododecane is included. If the oil phase comprises isododecane, it is advantageous if the total isododecane content is 2.0 to 30 wt.%, preferably 3.0 to 20 wt.%, preferably 4.0 to 15 wt.%, preferably 5.0 to 14 wt.%, and particularly preferably 6.0 to 12 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0031] It is advantageous if isohexadecane is included. If the oil phase comprises isohexadecane, it is advantageous if the total proportion of isohexadecane is 2.0 to 30 wt.%, preferably 3.0 to 20 wt.%, preferably 4.0 to 15 wt.%, preferably 5.0 to 14 wt.%, and particularly preferably 6.0 to 12 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0032] It is advantageous if isopropyl palmitate is included. If the oil phase comprises isopropyl palmitate, it is advantageous if the total proportion of isopropyl palmitate is 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 7.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.4 to 2.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.5 to 1.5 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation. It is advantageous if undecane is included. If the oil phase comprises undecane, it is advantageous if the total proportion of undecane is 0.1 to 15 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 10.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.4 to 8.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 5.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.6 to 3.2 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0033] It is advantageous if C15-19 alkanes are present. If the oil phase comprises C15-19 alkanes, it is advantageous if the total proportion of C15-19 alkanes is 0.1 to 15 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 8.5 wt.%, preferably 1.0 to 4.5 wt.%, preferably 1.2 to 3.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 1.5 to 2.5 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0034] It is advantageous if coco-caprylate / caprate is included. If the oil phase comprises coco-caprylate / caprate, it is advantageous if the total proportion of coco-caprylate / caprate is 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 6.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.4 to 3.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.6 to 1.2 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0035] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the oil phase includes undecane, ethylhexyl cocoate, dicaprylyl ether and / or octyldodecanol.

[0036] If undecane, ethylhexyl cocoate, dicaprylyl ether and / or octyldodecanol are included, it is preferred that the total proportion of these components is 1.0 to 20 wt.%, preferably 1.2 to 10 wt.%, preferably 1.4 to 8.0 wt.%, preferably 1.7 to 7.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 2.0 to 5.0 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0037] If undecane, ethylhexyl cocoate, dicaprylyl ether and / or octyldodecanol are included, it is preferred that the proportion of any one of these components is 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 6.5 wt.%, preferably 0.4 to 3.5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.6 to 1.2 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0038] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the oil phase comprises Helianthus Annuus seed oil, Vitis Vinifera seed oil, and / or Argania Spinosa kernel oil. If Helianthus Annuus seed oil, Vitis Vinifera seed oil, and / or Argania Spinosa kernel oil are included, it is preferred that the proportion of any one of these components is 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 6.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.4 to 3.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.6 to 1.2 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation. It is further advantageous if the oil phase comprises one or more colorants. Advantageously selected colorants included in the oil phase are from the group consisting of CI 61565, CI 60725, Haematococcus Pluvialis, and CI 75130.

[0039] Preferred embodiments of the invention are further advantageously characterized in that they are free of silicone oils and / or silicone components. By definition, silicone components are understood to be liquid substances under normal conditions that contain an alkyl silicon group. "Free of" in this context means that these components are not present.

[0040] Furthermore, it has been advantageously shown according to the invention that significantly more transparent oil phases are obtained even without the addition of electrolytes, in particular without the addition of sodium chloride, than when using other surfactants contained in commercial products. A typically used surfactant is carylyl / capryl glucoside. When used without electrolytes, this exhibits cloudy oil phases, which is undesirable.

[0041] Consequently, an advantageous embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the preparation does not include any added sodium chloride. "Added" is understood to mean that it is present as a separate raw material. However, according to the invention, it is possible for sodium chloride to be present as a component of other raw materials, for example, via the ion product of two contained components. Accordingly, the proportion of added sodium chloride in this embodiment is advantageously 0% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0042] Another embodiment of the invention is advantageously characterized by the inclusion of sodium chloride. In this embodiment, if sodium chloride is included, it is preferred that the proportion of sodium chloride is 0.1 to 1.0 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 0.8 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.4 to 0.7 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0043] Another embodiment of the invention is advantageously characterized in that it contains absolutely no sodium chloride. Accordingly, the proportion of sodium chloride in this advantageous embodiment is 0% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0044] Advantageous embodiments of the invention are further characterized in that the preparation contains additional surfactants in proportions of less than 0.5 wt.%, preferably less than 0.4 wt.%, preferably less than 0.3 wt.%, preferably less than 0.2 wt.%, preferably less than 0.1 wt.%, and particularly preferably in a proportion of 0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation. Consequently, it is particularly preferred that no additional surfactants are contained.

[0045] Advantageous embodiments can be further advantageously characterized by the inclusion of at least one additional non-ionic surfactant. This surfactant is advantageously different from alkyl glucosides.

[0046] According to the invention, it is advantageous if the preparation is free of benzethonium chloride. Accordingly, the preparation advantageously contains no benzethonium chloride.

[0047] Furthermore, it is advantageous within the meaning of the present invention if the preparation is characterized in that it comprises trisodium EDTA. If trisodium EDTA is included, it is advantageous if the total proportion of trisodium EDTA is between 0.01 and 0.4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0048] Furthermore, it is advantageous within the meaning of the present invention if the preparation is characterized in that it comprises EDDS (ethylenediamine succinic acid) or its salts. If EDDS and / or its salts are included, it is advantageous if the total proportion of EDDS and / or its salts is between 0.01 and 0.4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0049] Furthermore, it is advantageous in the context of the present invention if the preparation is characterized by comprising glycerin. If glycerin is included, it is advantageous if it is present in a proportion of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 1.0 to 3.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 1.5 to 3.0 wt.%, based on the total weight.

[0050] Furthermore, it is advantageous in the context of the present invention if the preparation is characterized by comprising phenoxyethanol. If phenoxyethanol is included, it is advantageous if it is present in a proportion of 0.1 to 1.0 wt.%, preferably 0.15 to 0.8 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.2 to 0.6 wt.%, based on the total weight.

[0051] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the aqueous phase comprises water. If water is included, it is further advantageous if the total water content, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase, is more than 90 wt.%, preferably more than 90 wt.%, preferably more than 92 wt.%, preferably more than 94 wt.%, preferably more than 96 wt.%, and less than 98 wt.%. It is also advantageous if the aqueous phase of the preparation comprises one or more water-soluble dyes, in particular CI 16035 (FD&C Red 40; 6-Hydroxy-5-((6-methoxy-4-sulfo-m-tolyl)azo)-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt).

[0052] Another noteworthy factor with two-phase products is their filling ratio. Finding the right balance between the water and oil phases proved crucial for optimal cleaning performance. Too little oil negatively impacts cleaning efficiency.

[0053] Ideally, the weight ratio of the water phase to the oil phase is chosen to be in the range of 20 to 1 to 2 to 3, in particular 15 to 1 to 1 to 1, advantageously 12 to 1 to 8 to 1.

[0054] Since two-phase preparations are frequently used as cleansing agents and especially as eye makeup removers, very good tolerability is particularly important in the area around the eye. This is achieved by the preparation according to the invention.

[0055] Advantageously, the preparations according to the invention comprise less than 0.01 wt.%, in particular 0 wt.% of polymers and / or thickeners, in each case based on the total mass of the preparation.

[0056] The production of the two-phase preparations according to the invention can advantageously proceed as shown below by way of example.

[0057] The following is an example of a manufacturing instruction:

[0058] Water phase:

[0059] Oil phase:

[0060] Mix the oil phase and water phase together in the correct proportions. The following preparation method is also advantageous: or or

[0061] Examples

[0062] The following example recipes are intended to illustrate the present invention. Numerical values ​​refer to weight percentages based on the total mass of the preparation.

[0063] Example formulations 1 and 3 are comparative examples. Example 2 is an example according to the invention. Example 1 contains the commonly used caprylyl / capryl glucoside as a surfactant. Example 3 contains rhamnolipids, which are also listed under the INCI name glycolipids.

[0064] Figure 1 shows the transmission of the total product after prior mixing for all three examples. It shows that the transmission of example 2 increases most rapidly. The formation of the separate phases therefore occurs most quickly in this example.

[0065] 100 g of the formula were placed in a 150 mL glass bottle and shaken 20 times by hand (each up-and-down motion counts as one shake). Immediately afterward, 3 mL of the mixed formula were transferred to a 1 cm x 1 cm x 4 cm IIV / VIS cuvette, and transmission spectra at 600 nm were recorded at a height of 1 cm from the bottom of the cuvette. The first measurement was taken 1 minute after the shaking process was completed.

[0066] The faster the transmission value increased, the faster the separation occurred. The pure water phase was finally measured at a height of 1 cm.

[0067] The transmission values ​​for the three examples are listed below.

[0068]

[0069] Further example recipes:

Claims

Claims 1. A two-phase cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising a horizontally separated two-phase system comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase, characterized in that the preparation comprises at least one sophorolipid in a proportion of 0.002 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.005 to 1 wt.%, and the proportion of the oil phase is 2 to 40 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

2. Preparation according to claim 1 characterized in that the sophorolipid is contained in a proportion of 0.005 to 0.5 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 0.2 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.02 to 0.08 wt.%, based on the total mass of the preparation.

3. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the total proportion of the oil phase is 3.0 wt.% to 30 wt.%, preferably 4.0 to 20 wt.%, preferably 6.0 to 17 wt.% and in particular 7.0 to 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

4. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase comprises one or more oils selected from the group consisting of isododecane, isohexadecane, isopropyl palmitate, undecane, C15-19 alkanes, and coco-caprylate / caprate.

5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase comprises undecane, ethylhexyl cocoate, dicaprylyl ether and / or octyldodecanol.

6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase comprises one or more colorants.

7. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that it is free of silicone oils and / or silicone components.

8. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the preparation is free of alkyl glucosides and / or is free of benzethonium chloride.

9. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the proportion of sodium chloride is 0.1 to 1.0 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 0.8 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.4 to 0.7 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

10. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the total water content based on the total weight of the aqueous phase is more than 90 wt.%, preferably more than 90 wt.%, preferably more more than 92 wt.%, preferably more than 94 wt.%, preferably more than 96 wt.%, and less than 98 wt.%.

11. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the weight ratio of the water phase to the oil phase is selected in the range of 20 to 1 to 2 to 3, in particular 15 to 1 to 1 to 1, advantageously 12 to 1 to 8 to 1.

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