Process for treating keratin fibres comprising applications of a first composition based on cationic agents and a second composition based on camellia oleifera oil

Abstract

The present invention relates to the field of hair treatment. The invention concerns a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least the following steps: a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (A) comprising: (i) at least one dye, (ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA, (iii) at least one cationic polymer, (iv) at least one fatty substance CGA, and b) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) comprising: (i) at least one cationic surfactant TCB, and (ii) at least one Camellia oleifera oil.

Description

[0001] PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBRES COMPRISING APPLICATIONS OF A FIRST COMPOSITION BASED ON CATIONIC AGENTS AND A SECOND COMPOSITION BASED ON CAMELLIA OLEIFERA OIL

[0002] The present invention relates to the field of hair treatment and more especially to the dyeing of keratin fibres, more particularly the hair. It aims to provide a process for treating keratin fibres, more particularly the hair, which comprises applying a first dyeing composition based on cationic agents, and a conditioning composition based on Camellia oleifera oil.

[0003] Many people have sought for a long time to modify the colour of their hair and in particular to mask their grey hair.

[0004] In the field of dyeing hair keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres, it is already known practice to dye hair keratin fibres via various techniques using direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent dyeing, or dye precursors for permanent dyeing.

[0005] There are essentially three types of process for dyeing the hair:

[0006] a) “permanent” dyeing, the function of which is to afford a substantial modification to the natural colour and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate into the hair fibre and forms the dye via an oxidative condensation process;

[0007] b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct dyeing, which does not use the oxidative condensation process and withstands 4 or 5 shampoo washes; it involves colouring keratin fibres with colouring compositions containing direct dyes;

[0008] c) temporary dyeing, which gives rise to a modification of the natural colour of the hair that remains from one shampoo wash to the next, and which serves to enhance or correct a shade that has already been obtained. It may also be likened to a “makeup” process.

[0009] It is thus known practice to dye keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, to obtain “permanent” dyeing with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, notably oxidation bases, such as ortho- or paraphenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones or pyrazolopyridines. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to coloured compounds via a process of oxidative condensation.It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with couplers or colour modifiers. The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a wide range of colours to be obtained.

[0010] However, the use of these dye compositions may entail a certain number of drawbacks.

[0011] Specifically, after application to keratin fibres, the dyeing power obtained may not be entirely satisfactory, or may even be weak, and lead to a limited range of colours.

[0012] The dyeings may also be insufficiently fast with respect to external agents such as light, shampoo washing or perspiration, and may also be too selective, i.e. the difference in colouring is too great along the same keratin fibre that is differently sensitized between its end and its root.

[0013] Additionally, the hair may be weakened or damaged by repeating dyeings. Moreover, the compositions used in current hair dyeing processes generally have the following drawbacks: conditioning properties that are not entirely satisfactory, an odour that may be unpleasant, discomfort of the scalp and / or a texture that sometimes makes it difficult to distribute the composition homogeneously over the keratin fibres (dripping), in particular the hair.

[0014] These findings are behind the interest in developing new processes for treating keratin fibres, making it possible to obtain a dyeing on keratin fibres that is sparingly selective (i.e. homogeneous from root to tip), intense, long-lasting, chromatic, with good colour build-up, and which are capable of leading to dyeings that are resistant to the various attacks to which the fibres may be subjected, such as climatic conditions, washing and perspiration, and also capable of resulting in good colouring performance even after a period of storage.

[0015] It is also of interest that these new processes exhibit good usage properties such as having a pleasant smell, a pleasant texture, that they are easy to apply, and that they also confer care / conditioning properties on the keratin fibres, more particularly softness to the touch, suppleness, shine and / or smoothness to the touch.

[0016] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e., products designed and developed while taking account of environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in helping to meet global challenges.

[0017] It is thus proving essential to propose more sustainable processes, thereby making it possible to respond to these environmental issues.In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic processes with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0018] These aims are achieved with the present invention, a particular subject of which is a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least the following steps:

[0019] a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (A) comprising:

[0020] (i) at least one dye,

[0021] (ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA,

[0022] (iii) at least one cationic polymer,

[0023] (iv) at least one fatty substance CGA, and

[0024] b) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) comprising:

[0025] (i) at least one cationic surfactant TCB, and

[0026] (ii) at least one Camellia oleifera oil.

[0027] It has been found that the process according to the invention makes it possible to obtain better colouring properties. In particular, the dyeing obtained has low selectivity with good build-up of dyeing, intensity, chromaticity and fastness.

[0028] The keratin fibre dyeings obtained with the composition according to the invention are particularly persistent with respect to external agents (washes, light, climatic conditions, friction, perspiration), and especially persistent with respect to multiple shampoo washes.

[0029] The compositions used in the process according to the invention exhibit good usage qualities and good cosmetic properties, in particular an agreeable odour and a texture which differs from the hair dyeing compositions usually used, with a creamy texture and particularly smooth spreading on application, in particular in contact with keratin fibres such as the hair.

[0030] The compositions used in the process according to the invention successfully exhibit a firm texture which spreads smoothly on application, while at the same time enabling homogeneous deposition thereof on the keratin fibres (no dripping), in particular on keratin fibres such as the hair.It has been found that the compositions used in the process according to the invention result in good scalp comfort during application.

[0031] It has also been found that the hair thus treated by the process according to the invention is particularly glossy, light, soft to the touch, smooth to the touch, supple, easy to disentangle and more manageable.

[0032] In addition, the compositions used in the process according to the invention are particularly environmentally friendly, notably in that they comprise few or no compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0033] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become more apparent on reading the description and the example that follows.

[0034] In the present description, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0035] - the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be replaced therewith;

[0036] - the expression “between...and...” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from...to...” and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included; - for the purposes of the present invention, the term “greater than” and, respectively, the term “less than” refer to an open range which is strictly greater or, respectively, strictly less, and thus that the limits are not included.

[0037] - according to the present application, the term “keratin fibres” is understood to mean more particularly human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, the eyebrows and the eyelashes, even more preferentially the hair.

[0038] - for the purposes of the present invention, the term '^hair" is understood as meaning head hair. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows or eyelashes.

[0039] - according to the present patent application, "fatty acid" is understood to mean an organic acid comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0040] - according to the present patent application "fatty alcohol" is understood to mean an alcohol comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0041] - for the purposes of the present invention, “(poly)oxyalkylenated compound” is understood to mean a compound comprising one or more ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide groups; preferably, the number of ethylene oxide and / orpropylene oxide groups may range from 1 to 150; more preferentially, the (poly)oxyalkylenated compound does not comprise any glycerol groups;

[0042] - for the purposes of the present invention, “(poly)glycerolated compound” is understood to mean a compound comprising one or more glycerol groups; preferably, the number of glycerol groups may range from 0 to 30.

[0043] In a first embodiment according to the invention, the process comprises at least the following steps:

[0044] a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (A) comprising:

[0045] (i) at least one oxidation dye,

[0046] (ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA,

[0047] (iii) at least one cationic polymer,

[0048] (iv) at least one fatty substance CGA, and

[0049] b) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) comprising:

[0050] (i) at least one cationic surfactant TCB, and

[0051] (ii) at least one Camellia oleifera oil.

[0052] In a second embodiment according to the invention, the process comprises at least the following steps:

[0053] a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (A) comprising:

[0054] (i) at least one direct dye,

[0055] (ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA,

[0056] (iii) at least one cationic polymer,

[0057] (iv) at least one fatty substance CGA, and

[0058] b) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) comprising:

[0059] (i) at least one cationic surfactant TCB, and

[0060] (ii) at least one Camellia oleifera oil.

[0061] In a third embodiment according to the invention, the process comprises at least the following steps:

[0062] a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (A) comprising:(i) at least one oxidation dye and at least one direct dye,

[0063] (ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA,

[0064] (iii) at least one cationic polymer,

[0065] (iv) at least one fatty substance CGA, and

[0066] b) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) comprising:

[0067] (i) at least one cationic surfactant TCB, and

[0068] (ii) at least one Camellia oleifera oil.

[0069] Said first embodiment of the invention above is particularly preferred. All of the features and preferences described below apply, independently of one another, to all of the embodiments (first, second and third) above.

[0070] Composition (A)

[0071] The composition (A) applied in step a) of the process according to the invention comprises at least one dye (i).

[0072] The dye(s) (i) in the composition (A) are preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from oxidation dyes.

[0073] More preferentially, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye.

[0074] Oxidation dyes

[0075] The composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one oxidation dye.

[0076] Preferably, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye.

[0077] The oxidation dyes (also referred to as “oxidation dye precursors”) may be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally in combination with one or more couplers.

[0078] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) are chosen from one or more oxidation bases. Preferably, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.The oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.

[0079] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention are chosen in particular from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0080] Moreover, the solvates of the oxidation bases more particularly represent the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

[0081] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, orthoaminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of the salts.

[0082] The para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned include, for example, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P,y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy -para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of salts thereof.

[0083] Among the abovementioned para-phenylenediamines, preference is given in particular to para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of salts thereof.

[0084] Bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned include, for example, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)- 1 ,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1 ,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0085] Para-aminophenols which are mentioned include, for example, paraaminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(P-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.

[0086] Ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned include, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.

[0087] Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned are, for example, pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.

[0088] Pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned include the compounds for example described in the patents GB 1 026978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0089] Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[ 1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[ 1 ,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[ 1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[ 1 ,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[ 1 ,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-(morpholin- 4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid- 5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[ 1 ,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[ 1 ,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-P-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0090] More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridines and preferably substituted on the 2 carbon atom with:

[0091] a) a (di)(Cl-C6)(alkyl)amino group, it being possible for said alkyl group to be substituted with at least one hydroxyl, amino or imidazolium group;

[0092] b) an optionally cationic 5- to 7-membered heterocycloalkyl group comprising from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally substituted with one or more (Ci-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(Ci -Chalky Ipiperazinium group; or

[0093] c) a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, such as a P-hydroxyalkoxy group, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0094] The pyrimidine derivatives which may be mentioned include the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2, 4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, and their addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts, and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

[0095] The pyrazole derivatives which may be mentioned include the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR-A-2733749 and DE 19543 988, such as 4,5-diamino-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1-(4’ -chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl- 1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-(4’-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2’-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-l-methylpyrazole, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of the salts. Use may also be made of 4,5-diamino-l-(P-methoxyethyl)pyrazole .

[0096] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferentially 4,5-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.

[0097] The pyrazole derivatives which may also be mentioned comprise diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in the patent application FR-A-2886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin- 1 -yl)-6,7 -dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[ 1 ,2-a]pyrazol- 1 -one, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,2-dimethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,2-diethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,2-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-l,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-l-yl)-l,2-diethyl-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one and 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, their salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts.

[0098] Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.

[0099] Use will preferably be made, as heterocyclic bases, of 4,5-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[ 1 ,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-P-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.

[0100] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, the corresponding addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from paraphenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, the addition salts thereof, such as N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine sulfate, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0101] Preferably, when the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases, the total content of oxidation base(s) ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).

[0102] Preferably, when the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases chosen from paraphenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, the addition salts thereof, such as N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine sulfate, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, the total content of oxidation base(s) chosen from para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, the addition salts thereof, such as N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine sulfate, the solvates thereof and / or the solvatesof the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).

[0103] In one particular embodiment, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention is free of oxidation bases chosen from paraphenylenediamine, para- toluenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and the solvates of their salts.

[0104] The oxidation dye(s) may also be chosen from one or more couplers, which may be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for the dyeing of keratin fibres.

[0105] Preferably, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers.

[0106] Among the couplers that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, metadiphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents, and also the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts thereof.

[0107] Mention may be made, for example, of 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, l,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-l,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(P-hydroxyethylamino)- 1 -methoxybenzene, 1 ,3-diaminobenzene, 1 ,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido- 1 -dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, a-naphthol, 2-methyl-l -naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1 -H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1 -phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol and 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, the solvates, the solvates of the salts, and the corresponding mixtures.In general, the addition salts of the couplers that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen in particular from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0108] Moreover, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the combination of these couplers with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

[0109] The one or more couplers are preferably chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxyindole, hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedioxy aniline, 2,4-diamino- l-(B-hydroxy ethyloxy / benzene, the addition salts thereof, such as hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline hydrochloride, 2,4-diamino- 1-(B-hydroxyethyloxy / benzene hydrochloride, solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0110] Preferably, when the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).

[0111] Preferably, when the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers chosen from metaaminophenol, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydro xyethyl-3 ,4-methylenedioxy aniline, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxyindole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxy aniline, 2,4-diamino- l-(B-hydroxyethyloxy / benzene, the addition salts thereof, such as hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline hydrochloride, 2,4-diamino- l-(B-hydroxy ethyloxy / benzene hydrochloride, solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) chosen from meta-aminophenol, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxyindole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2,4-diamino- 1 -(B-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, the addition salts thereof, such as hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline hydrochloride, 2,4-diamino- 1 -(B-hydroxy ethyloxy / benzene hydrochloride, solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).

[0112] In one particular embodiment, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof, and the solvates of the salts thereof.

[0113] Preferably, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye different from the oxidation dyes chosen from the group consisting of resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof, and the solvates of the salts thereof.

[0114] Preferably, the oxidation dye or dyes are chosen from oxidation bases, couplers, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, coupling agents based on naphthalene, heterocyclic coupling agents, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially still from para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, meta- aminophenol, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxyindole, hydroxyethyl-3 ,4- methylenedioxy aniline, 2,4-diamino- 1 -(B-hydroxy ethyloxy / benzene, addition salts thereof such as N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine sulfate, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline hydrochloride, 2,4-diamino- 1-(B-hydroxyethyloxy / benzene hydrochloride, solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0115] Preferably, when the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye, the total content of oxidation dye(s)ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from O.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).

[0116] Direct dyes

[0117] The composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one direct dye.

[0118] The direct dyes may be synthetic or natural.

[0119] The term “ direct dye" is understood to mean coloured entities. These are dyes which will spread superficially on the fibre.

[0120] These synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from those conventionally used for direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes that are commonly used, such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyanine direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0121] Among the nitrobenzene direct dyes, mention may be made of: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-P-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; l,4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)benzene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; l-amino-3-methyl-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-nitro-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 ,2-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; 1 -P-hydroxyethyloxy-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 -methoxy-2- P -hydroxyethylamino-5 -nitrobenzene ; 1 - P-hydroxy ethyloxy- 3 -methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-P,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-4-P,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1- P,y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -P-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-hydroxy-6-bis-(P-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3-nitrobenzene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; l-hydroxy-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.

[0122] Among the azo direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.

[0123] Among the hydrazono direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Yellow 87.

[0124] Among the nitroaryl direct dyes, mention may be made of: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, A,A'-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitrophenylenediamine.

[0125] Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also known as HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50.

[0126] Among the quinone direct dyes, mention may be made of: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, and also the following compounds : 1 -N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1 -aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1 -aminopropylaminoanthraquinone, 5-P-hydroxyethyl- 1 ,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, l,4-bis(P,y-dihydroxypropylamino)anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.

[0127] Among the azine direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.

[0128] Among the indoamine direct dyes, mention may be made of: 2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-[bis(P-4’-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2’-methoxy-4’-amino)anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 3-N-(2’-chloro-4’-hydroxy)phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-l,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-N-(3’-chloro-4’-methylamino)phenylureido-6-methyl-l,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-[4’-N-(ethylcarbamylmethyl)amino]phenylureido-6-methyl-l,4-benzoquinoneimine.

[0129] The natural direct dyes are chosen, for example, from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leucoindigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamin, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or ortho-diphenols.

[0130] Among the ortho-diphenols that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, haematein, haematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-epicatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, aesculetin, 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanidin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin Cl, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-dihydroxy-2-methyl-l,4-naphthoquinone, alizarin, wedelolactone and natural extracts containing same.

[0131] More preferentially, the direct dye(s) are chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, nitroaryl direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] More preferentially, the direct dyes are chosen from ionic direct dyes, better still from cationic direct dyes.

[0133] Even more preferentially, the cationic direct dyes are chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0134] When the composition (A) comprises at least one direct dye, the total content of direct dye(s) preferably ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).

[0135] When the composition (A) comprises at least one cationic direct dye, the total content of cationic direct dye(s) preferably ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0136] Preferably, the total content of dye(s) in the composition (A) ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.002% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.005% to 5%, even better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).

[0137] Preferably, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention is devoid of pigment.

[0138] Cationic surfactants TCA

[0139] The composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant TCA.

[0140] The term “cationic surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only cationic groups. In the present description, a species is termed as being “cationic” when it bears at least one permanent positive charge or when it can be ionized to a positively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition employed in the process of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any anionic charge.

[0141] The one or more cationic surfactants TCA which can be used in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention are preferably chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, cationic surfactants of formula (A) as defined below, and mixtures thereof.

[0142] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the cationic surfactant or surfactants TCA that may be used in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention are chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants; morepreferentially from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0143] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the cationic surfactant or surfactants TCA that may be used in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention are chosen from quaternary ester cationic surfactants; more preferentially from cationic surfactants of formula (A) as defined below.

[0144] More preferentially still, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least two cationic surfactants TCA chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0145] Better still, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises as cationic surfactants TCA at least one first fatty amine cationic surfactant and at least one second quaternary ester cationic surfactant.

[0146] Even better still, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one first cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain and at least one second cationic surfactant of formula (A) as defined below.

[0147] Fatty amine cationic surfactants:

[0148] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from (optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated) primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0149] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof, and comprising at least one C6-C30, preferably C8-C30, hydrocarbon chain.

[0150] Said fatty amine cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, meaning that they do not contain any Si-0 group.

[0151] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactants that may be used according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.

[0152] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactants that are useful according to the invention comprise at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.As cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may advantageously be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0153] The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0154] The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0155] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.

[0156] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may most particularly be made of the amidoamines of formula RCONHR"N(R')2 in which: - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;

[0157] - R" represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0158] - R', which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0159] Mention may in particular be made of the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stear amidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stear amidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine,olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0160] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; preferentially from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, and better still brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0161] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition employed in the process according to the invention (which does not rule out the fact that they may "quaternize" in situ).

[0162] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactants are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain;

[0163] more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;

[0164] more preferentially still from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;

[0165] and better still brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0166] Preferably, when the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amine cationic surfactants, the total content of fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 3%by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0167] Preferably, when the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amidoamine cationic surfactants, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0168] Preferably, when the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amidoamine cationic surfactants of formula RCONHR"N(R')2, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR"N(R')2 described above ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0169] Quaternary ester cationic surfactants:

[0170] For the purposes of the invention, the term “quaternary ester cationic surfactant” means a cationic surfactant comprising at least one carboxylic ester group and at least one quaternary ammonium group.

[0171] Preferably, the quaternary ester cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) below:

[0172]

[0173] in which:

[0174] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group,

[0175] - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups,- A and A' represent, independently of one another, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, and

[0176] - X" represents an anion.

[0177] Preferably, Ri and R2 are linear.

[0178] According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are saturated.

[0179] According to another embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are unsaturated.

[0180] Preferably, Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C30 hydrocarbon group, more preferentially a C9-C21 hydrocarbon group, and even more preferentially a C11-C17 hydrocarbon group.

[0181] Preferably, A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a C1-C2 alkyl group, and even more preferentially a C2 alkyl group. Preferably, A and A’ are identical.

[0182] Preferably, R3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and better still R3 represents a methyl group.

[0183] Preferably, R4 is chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, more preferentially Ci-C2 alkyl groups, better still a methyl group; b) C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, more preferentially C2-C3 hydroxy alkyl groups, better still the CH2CH2OH group.

[0184] The anion X" preferably represents a) a halide, in particular a chloride, bromide or iodide, b) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, c) a (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonate, d) a (Ci-C4)alkyl-arylsulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, j) any other ammonium-compatible anion bearing an ester function.

[0185] More preferentially, the anion X" represents a) a halide or b) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate. Even more preferentially, the anion X" represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.

[0186] Said quaternary ester cationic surfactants, in particular of formula (A), are different from the fatty amine cationic surfactants described above.

[0187] Advantageously, said quaternary ester cationic surfactants may be in the form of a salt, such as a salt of a halide, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonate, (Ci-C4)alkyl-arylsulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or lactate, or any other compatible anion; preferably a halide or (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate salt.Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that:

[0188] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C30 hydrocarbon group, more preferentially a C9-C21 hydrocarbon group, and even more preferentially a C11-C17 hydrocarbon group, which is preferably linear, and saturated or unsaturated.

[0189] - A and A' represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and even more preferentially a C2 alkyl group; preferably, A and A' are identical;

[0190] - R3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and better still R3 represents a methyl group;

[0191] - R4 represents a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group, more preferentially a C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl group or a C1-C4 and more preferentially C1-C2 alkyl group, better still a methyl group; - X" represents a) a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, b) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, c) a (Cl-C4)alkylsulfonate, d) a (Cl-C4)alkyl- arylsulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid, such as an acetate or a lactate; more preferentially, the anion X" represents a) a halide or b) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate; even more preferentially, the anion X" represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.

[0192] Preferentially, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that:

[0193] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear, saturated C9-C21 hydrocarbon group,

[0194] - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from C1-C2 alkyl groups and C2-C3 hydroxy alkyl groups,

[0195] - A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a C1-C2 alkyl group; preferably A and A’ are identical; and

[0196] - X" represents an anion chosen from halides and C1-C4 alkyl sulfate groups.

[0197] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are chosen from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleylethyldimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimonium chloride, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimoniumchloride, dioleylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.

[0198] Better still, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant of formula (A) in salt form, notably a dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.

[0199] Preferably, when the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more quaternary ester cationic surfactants, the total content of quaternary ester cationic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0200] Preferably, when the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of formula (A), the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0201] Preferably, when the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of formula (A) chosen from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleylethyldimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimonium chloride, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) chosen from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleylethyldimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimonium chloride, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) TCA ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 7% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0202] Preferably, when they are present in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) and fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 7% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0203] Cationic polymers

[0204] The composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one cationic polymer.

[0205] The cationic polymers are not silicone compounds (they do not comprise any silicon atom).

[0206] The term “cationic polymer” is intended to mean any non-silicone polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups, and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0207] The cationic polymers that may be employed preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better still of less than or equal to 4 meq / g.

[0208] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar proportion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0209] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight- average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5xl06approximately and preferably of between 103and 3xl06approximately.Among the cationic polymers that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of the following polymers:

[0210] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the formulae below:

[0211]

[0212] in which:

[0213] - R3, which are identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;

[0214] - A, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxy alkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0215] - R4, Rs and Re, which are identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0216] - Ri and R2, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

[0217] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

[0218] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of the acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

[0219] Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quatemized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,

[0220] copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,

[0221] the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

[0222] - quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937,

[0223] dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0224] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP;

[0225] quatemized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP;

[0226] - preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci -Chalky ltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.(2) cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.

[0227] Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0228] The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR1492597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxy ethylcellulose that has reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

[0229] Mention may notably be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol.

[0230] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent US4131576; mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. Mention may be made most particularly of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, the quaternizing agent notably possibly being diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and most particularly hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0231] Among the commercial products corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.

[0232] A particularly preferred cationic cellulose that may notably be mentioned is the polymer having the INCI name Polyquaternium-10.

[0233] The cationic galactomannan gums are notably described in patents US3589578 and US4031307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, notably those comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, notably trimethylammonium.Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride).

[0234] Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums bear cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may most particularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.

[0235] Mention may be made in particular of the products having the INCI names Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Solvay.

[0236] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of cationic derivatives of cassia gum, notably those including quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product having the INCI name Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0237] (3) polymers formed of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

[0238] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive towards a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide;these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quatemized.

[0239] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

[0240] (6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the poly alkylene poly amine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by Hercules Inc. or under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer.

[0241] (7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers including, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):

[0242] <

[0243]

[0244] in which

[0245] - k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + t being equal to 1 ;- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

[0246] - Rio and Rn, independently of each other, denote a Ci-Ce alkyl group, a Ci-Cs hydroxyalkyl group or a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or else Rio and Rn, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, may denote a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Rio and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;

[0247] - Y’ is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

[0248] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride) (INCI name Polyquaternium-6) for example sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide (INCI name Polyquaternium-7), notably sold under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR.

[0249] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:

[0250]

[0251] in which:

[0252] - R13, R14, RIS and Ri6, which are identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxy alkyl aliphatic radicals;

[0253] or else R13, R14, R15 and Ri6, together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second, nonnitrogen heteroatom;

[0254] or else R13, R14, R15 and Ri6 represent a linear or branched Ci-Ce alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

[0255] - Ai and Bi represent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or moreoxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

[0256] - X" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

[0257] it being understood that Al, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;

[0258] in addition, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bl may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- with n and p, which are identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:

[0259] a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH2O)X-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

[0260] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;

[0261] d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0262] Preferably, X" is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number- average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100000.

[0263] Mention may be made more particularly of polymers which are formed of repeating units corresponding to the formula:

[0264] "

[0265]

[0266] in which Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which are identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X" is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[0267] A particularly preferred compound is the one for which Ri, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.(9) polyquatemary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula:

[0268]

[0269] in which:

[0270] - Ri8, R19, R20 and R21, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, P-hydroxyethyl, P-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)POH radical, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ris, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

[0271] - r and s, which are identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

[0272] - X" denotes an anion such as a halide,

[0273] - A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0274] Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® ADI, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.

[0275] (10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.

[0276] (11) poly amines such as Poly quart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.

[0277] (12) polymers comprising in their structure:

[0278] (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:

[0279] — CHj — CH —

[0280] NH2

[0281]

[0282] (b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:

[0283]

[0284] In other words, these polymers may in particular be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

[0285] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).

[0286] These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.

[0287] The weight- average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3000000 g / mol, preferably from 10000 to 1 000000 and more particularly from 100000 to 500000 g / mol.

[0288] The polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF; for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

[0289] Preferably, the cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0290] - polymers of family (7) and in particular homopolymers or copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride), notably copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide such as Polyquatemium-7 ;

[0291] - cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses such as Polyquatemium-10, and cationic galactomannan gums, notably cationic guar gums.

[0292] More preferentially, the cationic polymer or polymers are chosen from cationic polysaccharides; more preferentially still from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, especially cationic guar gums, and mixtures thereof; better still from cationic galactomannan gums, especially cationic guar gums.

[0293] Preferably, the total content of cationic polymer(s) in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferentiallyfrom 0.05% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0294] Preferably, the total content of cationic polysaccharide(s) in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0295] Preferably, the total content of cationic galactomannan gum(s) in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0296] Preferably, the total content of cationic guar gum(s) in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0297] Fatty substances CGA

[0298] The composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one fatty substance CGA.

[0299] The fatty substances CGA, according to the invention, are different from fatty acids.

[0300] The fatty substances CGA, according to the invention, are different from the cationic surfactants described previously.

[0301] The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.The fatty substances CGA that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0302] Preferably, the fatty substances CGA that are useful according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.

[0303] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.

[0304] The fatty substances CGA that are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. The term “liquid fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa) and the term “solid fatty substance” means a fatty substance with a melting point (m.p.) of strictly greater than 25°C (m.p. > 25°C) at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).

[0305] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3:1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).

[0306] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) may be chosen from C<> to Ci6 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0307] It is recalled that the fatty alcohols and esters more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group, comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0308] As regards the Ce-Cie liquid hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petrolatum (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0309] A hydrocarbon oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydro squalene .

[0310] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, com oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0311] As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro- 1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "Flutec® PCI" and "Flutec® PC3" by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M, or else bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl®" by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M.

[0312] The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.

[0313] According to one embodiment, the fatty substances CGA are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from plant oils.The solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s’1.

[0314] The solid fatty substance or substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.

[0315] The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0316] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0317] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0318] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1 -tetradec anol); cetyl alcohol (or 1 -hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1 -octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1 -tetracos anol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1 -octacos anol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0319] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

[0320] The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may be optionally hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0321] Use may also be made of the esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and the esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0322] Mention may notably be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0323] Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, particularly myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, particularly myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0324] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0325] Mention may be made notably of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, notably of organic origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

[0326] Mention may further be made of C20 to Ceo microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

[0327] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0328] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched Cs to C32 fatty chains. Among these oils, mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis( 1,1,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

[0329] The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used.

[0330] A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.

[0331] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture ofcarnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.

[0332] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0333] Ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0334] The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:

[0335] R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C 14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

[0336] R2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0337] R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group which is saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.

[0338] The ceramides which are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated linear C15 group.Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0339] Use may also be made of the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical; and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0340] As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N- [2 -hydroxypalmitoyl] aminooctadecane- 1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1, 3, 4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane- 1 ,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-Oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.

[0341] The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0342] Butters may also be used.

[0343] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “butter” (also referred to as a “pasty fatty substance”) means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, including at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting onset temperature above 25 °C and a final melting temperature below 60°C.

[0344] Preferably, the particular butter(s) are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann’s Encyclopaedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, published online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007. al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospennum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea slenoplera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. hulyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma hulyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter.

[0345] Shea butter constitutes an example of a preferred butter.

[0346] In a known manner, shea butter is extracted from the fruit (also called “kernels” or “nuts”) of the Butyrospermum parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% of fat, which is extracted and which is generally refined.

[0347] Preferably, the solid fatty substances are chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0348] Preferably, the fatty substance or substances CGA are chosen from liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof, more preferentially still from plant oils, solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0349] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substances, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and one or more liquid fatty substances, preferably chosen from plant oils.

[0350] Preferably, the total content of fatty substance(s) CGA in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention is within the range extendingfrom 0.5% to 55% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 45% by weight, more preferentially still from 5% to 35% by weight, better still from 10% to 30% by weight, even better still from 20% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0351] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of solid fatty substance(s) in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention is within the range extending from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 45% by weight, more preferentially still from 5% to 35% by weight, better still from 10% to 30% by weight, even better still from 20% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0352] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention is within the range extending from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0353] Alkaline agents

[0354] The composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention may advantageously further comprise at least one alkaline agent.

[0355] The composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention preferably further comprises at least one alkaline agent.

[0356] The alkaline agent(s) may be mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents. For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent” and “basifying agent” are used without distinction.

[0357] The mineral basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.

[0358] The organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / oroxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.

[0359] The term “alkanolamine” means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched Ci-Cs alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0360] Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different Ci to C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.

[0361] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) is (are) chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 ,3-propanediol, 3-amino- 1 ,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, and mixtures thereof.

[0362] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.

[0363] The organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may especially be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds including a guanidine function. As amines of this type other than arginine that may be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane- 1-sulfonic acid.

[0364] The amino acids used as alkaline agent according to the invention are not surfactants.

[0365] Use may be made in particular of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride as hybrid compounds.

[0366] The alkaline agent(s) according to the invention are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine,ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof; better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof; and better still yet from ammonium hydroxide.

[0367] Preferably, when the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent, the total content of alkaline agent(s) is in the range extending from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, more preferentially still from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 10%, better still yet from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).

[0368] Preferably, when the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one alkanolamine, the total content of alkanolamine(s) is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, more preferentially still from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 10%, better still yet from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).

[0369] Preferably, when the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises ammonium hydroxide, the total content of ammonium hydroxide is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, more preferentially still from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 10%, better still yet from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).

[0370] Seguestrants

[0371] The composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention may advantageously further comprise at least one sequestrant (or chelating agent).

[0372] Preferably, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one sequestrant.

[0373] The definition of a “sequestrant” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or mixture of compounds that is or are capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complexin which a compound (the sequestrant or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a ring including the metal ion).

[0374] A sequestrant (or chelating agent) generally comprises at least two electrondonating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.

[0375] In the context of the present invention, the sequestrant(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminopho sphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, salts thereof, and derivatives thereof.

[0376] The salts are notably alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.

[0377] Mention may be made, by way of example of chelating agents based on carboxylic acids, of the following compounds: diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate, such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, such as disodium EDTA and tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryl iminodiacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317542 and EP-A-399 133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid and aspartic acid-N-carboxymethyl-N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516 102), P-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509 382), chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutanetricarboxylic acid, such as the compound sold by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-di(carboxymethyl)glutamic acid and its salts, such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA), such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel.

[0378] By way of example of chelating agents based on mono- or polypho sphonic acid, mention may be made of the following compounds: diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane- 1 -hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-l,l,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane- 1 -hydroxy- 1 -diphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxy ethane- 1,1 -dipho sphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.

[0379] The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.

[0380] According to one embodiment, the sequestrant(s) that are useful according to the invention are phosphorus-based sequestrants, i.e. sequestrants which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.

[0381] The phosphorus-based sequestering agent(s) used in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention is (are) preferably chosen from: - inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives preferably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, preferably alkali metal, phosphates and pyrophosphates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, preferably alkali metal, polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; which are optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;

[0382] - organic phosphorus-based derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, for instance etidronic acid and / or alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, and mixtures thereof.

[0383] Preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms bonded together covalently via at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.

[0384] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also known as tetrasodium pyrophosphate).

[0385] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms.More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is (are) chosen from etidronic acid (also known as 1 -hydroxy ethane- 1,1 -dipho sphonic acid) and / or its alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, preferably alkali metal, salts such as tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.

[0386] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or alkali metal salts thereof, and a mixture of these compounds.

[0387] Particularly preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, and a mixture of these compounds.

[0388] More preferentially, the one or more sequestrants are chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTP A) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0389] More preferentially still, the one or more sequestrants are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0390] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts, and notably the sodium or potassium salts, are preferred.

[0391] Preferably, when the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more sequestrants, the total content of sequestrant(s) is in the range extending from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0392] Preferably, when the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more sequestrants chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, the total content of sequestrant(s) chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof is in the range extending from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).Compounds of amino acid type:

[0393] Advantageously, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention may also further comprise one or more compounds of amino acid type.

[0394] Preferably, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type.

[0395] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “compound of amino acid type” means an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions and one or more amine functions, it being possible for the amine function(s) to be endocyclic, optionally in salt form.

[0396] According to the invention, said compounds of amino acid type are different from the oxidation dyes, direct dyes, alkaline agents, cationic surfactants TCA, cationic polymers, fatty substances CGA and sequestrants as described above, and also (poly)carboxylic acids and organic solvents as described hereinafter.

[0397] Preferably, the compound(s) of amino acid type are chosen from compounds of amino acid type comprising only one or two or more carboxylic acid functions (thus not comprising any sulfonic acid function) and / or salts thereof. Said compounds are also called compounds of aminocarboxylic acid type and are particularly preferred.

[0398] Preferably, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the present invention comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or salts thereof.

[0399] The compounds of amino acid type may thus correspond to formula (I):

[0400]

[0401] in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that:

[0402] - when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, it being possible for this ring to be optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl;

[0403] - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (Ci-Ci2)alkyl and preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionallysubstituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0404] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated 5-membered heterocycle, this ring not being substituted.

[0405] Preferably, p = 2.

[0406] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with an -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted with one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0407] Preferentially, p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0408] The compounds of amino acid type may also be a salt of a compound of formula (I).

[0409] These salts comprise the salts with organic or mineral bases, for example the salts of alkali metals, for instance the lithium, sodium or potassium salts; the salts of alkaline earth metals, for instance the magnesium or calcium salts, and the zinc salts.

[0410] The compounds of amino acid type may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0411] As examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

[0412] Preferably, the compound(s) of amino acid type according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof (notably alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0413] Preferentially, the compound(s) of amino acid type according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0414] Better still, the compound of amino acid type is chosen from glycine, salts thereof (notably alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0415] As glycine salts according to the present invention, mention may be made of sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0416] Preferably, the compound of amino acid type is glycine.

[0417] When the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type, the total content ofcompound(s) of amino acid type is in the range extending preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0418] In particular, the total content of compound(s) of aminocarboxylic acid type in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention is within the range extending preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0419] Better still, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention is within the range extending preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0420] Most particularly, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type chosen from glycine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention is within the range extending preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0421] Even better still, the glycine content in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention is within the range extending preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0422] (Poly)carboxylic acids

[0423] Advantageously, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention may also further comprise one or more (poly)carboxylic acids.Preferably, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids, a salt thereof or mixtures thereof.

[0424] According to the invention, the one or more (poly)carboxylic acids are different from the above-described compounds of amino acid type.

[0425] In particular, according to the invention, said (poly)carboxylic acids are different from the oxidation dyes, direct dyes, alkaline agents, cationic surfactants TCA, cationic polymers, fatty substances CGA, sequestrants and compounds of amino acid type as described above, and also organic solvents as described hereinafter.

[0426] Preferably, the (poly )carboxy lie acid(s) is or are chosen from the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) of formula (II) below:

[0427]

[0428] in which formula (II):

[0429] - n is an integer between 0 and 10, better still between 1 and 5, even better still between 1 and 3; preferably, n = 1 or 2, more preferably n = 2;

[0430] - A is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic or even aromatic monovalent (when n = 0) or polyvalent (when n is other than 0) hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups (OH).

[0431] Preferably, A is a monovalent or polyvalent (Ci-C6)alkylene, better still (C2-C4)alkylene group, or phenylene group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.

[0432] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) are alpha-hydroxy acids, for which A is a (Ci-C6)alkylene and better still (C2-C4)alkylene group, or phenylene group, substituted with 1 or 2 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 hydroxyl group; and n = 0 to 2.

[0433] Mention may be made in particular of the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (H) in which:

[0434] - n = 0 and A is a monovalent (Ci-C6)alkyl and notably (C2-C4)alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups (OH), notably 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH;

[0435] - n = 0 and A is a phenyl radical substituted with 1 OH radical; or

[0436] - n = 1 or 2 and A is a divalent or bivalent (Ci-C6)alkyl and better still (C2-C4)alkylgroup, substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, notably 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH.

[0437] Preferentially, the (poly)carboxylic acids may be chosen from:

[0438] - citric acid (n = 2 and A bivalent = -CH2-CHOH-CH2-);

[0439] - salicylic acid (n = 0 and A = phenyl substituted with an OH);

[0440] - lactic acid (n = 0 and A monovalent = -CH(OH)CH3); and

[0441] - tartaric acid (n = 1 and A divalent = -CH(OH)-CH(OH)-).

[0442] Even more preferentially, the (poly)carboxylic acid is citric acid.

[0443] When the composition (A) comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids and / or salts thereof, the total content of (poly)carboxylic acids and / or salts thereof is in the range extending preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, and even better still from 0.4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0444] In one preferred embodiment, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises citric acid in a total content in the range extending from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, and even better still from 0.4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0445] Organic solvents

[0446] Advantageously, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention may optionally further comprise at least one organic solvent.

[0447] Preferably, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one organic solvent.

[0448] For the purposes of the invention, the organic solvents are different from the oxidation dyes, direct dyes, cationic surfactants TCA, cationic polymers, fatty substances CGA, alkaline agents and sequestrants as described above.

[0449] As organic solvents, mention may for example be made of a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) polyols that are water-miscible at ambient temperature (25°C), in particular chosen from polyols notably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and diglycerol; c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethylether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and also d) aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0450] For the purposes of the present invention the term “polyol” refers to an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain, preferably of C2-C30, more preferentially C3-C12, even more preferentially C3-C5, optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) borne by different carbon atoms; this compound can be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.

[0451] According to the invention, the organic solvents do not bear any amine or thiol functions and are in particular different from aminoalkanols such as diaminopropanols .

[0452] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from polyols, preferably from polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or glycerol.

[0453] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more polyols chosen from propylene glycol, propane- 1 ,3-diol, glycerol and a mixture thereof, better still propylene glycol and glycerol, and even better still glycerol.

[0454] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of organic solvent(s) in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention is in the range extending from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0455] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of polyol(s) in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention is in the range extending from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0456] Water

[0457] Preferably, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention further comprises water.

[0458] Preferably, the total water content in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention is in the range extending from 20% to 98% byweight, preferentially from 40% to 95% by weight, more preferentially from 50% to 92% by weight, even more preferentially from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0459] [TH

[0460] Preferably, the pH of the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention is between 3 and 13, more preferentially between 7 and 12.5, even more preferentially between 8 and 12, better still between 9 and 12, and even better still between 10 and 11.5.

[0461] The pH may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents typically used, or alternatively using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.

[0462] Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid and orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0463] Use may be made, among the basifying agents, of the alkaline agents as described above.

[0464] Additives

[0465] The composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention may also contain additives commonly used in cosmetics, as for example antifoams, thickeners other than the compounds described previously, moisturizers, clays, mineral fillers, UV filters, fragrances, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, vitamins, reducing agents, preservatives, and mixtures thereof. These additives may be present in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0466] A person skilled in the art will take care to select these optional additives and the amounts thereof such that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention, which is preferably cosmetic, comprises:

[0467] (i) at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from oxidation dyes,

[0468] (ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA, preferably chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof,

[0469] (iii) at least one cationic polymer, preferably chosen from cationic polysaccharides; more preferentially chosen from cationic galactomannan gums, more preferentially still from cationic guar gums,

[0470] (iv) at least one fatty substance CGA, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, plant oils, and mixtures thereof,

[0471] (v) optionally at least one alkaline agent,

[0472] (vi) optionally at least one sequestrant,

[0473] (vii) optionally at least one compound of amino acid type, and

[0474] (viii) optionally at least one (poly)carboxylic acid.

[0475] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention, which is preferably cosmetic, comprises:

[0476] (i) at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from oxidation dyes,

[0477] (ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA, preferably chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, cationic surfactants of formula (A) as described above, and mixtures thereof,

[0478] (iii) at least one cationic polymer, preferably chosen from cationic polysaccharides; more preferentially chosen from cationic galactomannan gums, more preferentially still from cationic guar gums,

[0479] (iv) at least one fatty substance CGA, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, plant oils, and mixtures thereof,

[0480] (v) at least one alkaline agent chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium(hydrogen)carbonate, silicates or metasilicates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof; better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof; and even better still ammonium hydroxide,

[0481] (vi) at least one sequestrant, preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTP A) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof,

[0482] (vii) optionally at least one compound of amino acid type, preferably glycine, and (viii) optionally at least one (poly)carboxylic acid, preferably citric acid.

[0483] The composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention is preferably in thickened form, more particularly in the form of a rich cream.

[0484] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 1500 mPa.s (i.e. 1500 cP), preferentially greater than or equal to 2000 mPa.s (i.e. 2000 cP), more preferentially greater than or equal to 4000 mPa.s (i.e. 4000 cP), more preferentially still greater than or equal to 4400 mPa.s (i.e. 4400 cP).

[0485] More preferentially, the dynamic viscosity of the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is in the range extending from 1500 mPa.s to 10000 mPa.s, preferentially from 3000 mPa.s to 9500 mPa.s, more preferentially from 3500 mPa.s to 9000 mPa.s, better still from 3800 mPa.s to 8500 mPa.s, even better from 4000 mPa.s to 8000 mPa.s.

[0486] The dynamic viscosity of the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention may be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100 rheometer, at a rotational speed of 200 rpm, the measurement being taken after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

[0487] Composition (B)Advantageously, the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention is different from the composition (A) as described above.

[0488] Cationic surfactants TCB

[0489] The composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention comprises (i) at least one cationic surfactant TCB.

[0490] The one or more surfactants TCB are called "surfactants TCB" in the present patent application.

[0491] The description hereinabove of the cationic surfactants TCA in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention is reprised here in its entirety to describe the cationic surfactants TCB in the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention.

[0492] Expressed alternatively, the one or more cationic surfactants TCB may be chosen from the cationic surfactants TCA as described above.

[0493] The one or more cationic surfactants TCB which can be used in the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention are preferably chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants.

[0494] More preferentially, the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one fatty amine cationic surfactant.

[0495] More preferentially still, the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one fatty amidoamine cationic surfactant comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0496] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may most particularly be made of the amidoamines of formula RCONHR"N(R')2 in which: - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;

[0497] - R" represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0498] - R', which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical havingfewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0499] Preferably, the cationic surfactants of fatty amine type are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain;

[0500] more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;

[0501] more preferentially still from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof;

[0502] and even better stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0503] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) TCB is in the range extending from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 7% by weight, better still from 1% to 6% by weight, even better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0504] Preferably, the total content of fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) is in the range extending from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 7% by weight, better still from 1% to 6% by weight, even better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0505] Preferably, the total content of fatty amidoamine cationic surfactant(s) is in the range extending from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 7% by weight, better still from1% to 6% by weight, and better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0506] Preferably, the total content of fatty amidoamine cationic surfactant(s) of formula RC0NHR”N(R’)2 is within the range extending from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 7% by weight, better still from 1% to 6% by weight, even better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0507] Camellia oleifera oils

[0508] The composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention comprises (ii) at least one oil of camellia belonging to the species Camellia oleifera.

[0509] According to the invention, the one or more camellia plant oils are different from the abovementioned ingredients.

[0510] Said oil(s) may be extracted from all or part of the plant, in particular from the stem, the leaves, the buds, the roots, the flowers, the petals and / or the seeds; advantageously, the oil is extracted from the seeds.

[0511] The extraction may be performed in any way known to a person skilled in the art; advantageously, it is performed by pressing, in particular by cold pressing, of the plant or plant part(s) under consideration. After extraction, the oil may be purified.

[0512] Preferably, use is made of a Camellia oleifera seed oil, obtained in particular by pressing Camellia oleifera seeds.

[0513] In the context of the invention, use may in particular be made of the oil with the INCI name "CAMELLIA OLEIFERA SEED OIL".

[0514] The composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention may advantageously comprise the Camellia oleifera oil(s) in a total amount of greater than or equal to 0.15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0515] In particular, the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention may advantageously comprise the Camellia oleifera seed oil(s) in a total amount of greater than or equal to 0.15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0516] Preferably, the total content of Camellia oleifera oil(s) is within the range extending from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).Preferably, the total content of Camellia oleifera seed oil(s) is within the range extending from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0517] Preferably, the total content of Camellia oleifera oils is within the range extending from 0.15% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, notably from 0.17% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.18% to 1.5% by weight, preferentially from 0.19% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0518] Preferably, the total content of Camellia oleifera seed oil(s) is within the range extending from 0.15% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, notably from 0.17% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.18% to 1.5% by weight, preferentially from 0.19% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0519] Liquid fatty esters

[0520] Advantageously, the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one liquid fatty ester.

[0521] Preferably, the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty ester.

[0522] Said liquid fatty esters are different from the Camellia oleifera oils described above, and also, in general, from oils of triglyceride type such as plant oils.

[0523] The term "liquid" is understood to mean that the compound has a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa). For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3:1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).

[0524] The term "fatty" is understood to mean that the compound (in particular alcohol, acid or ester) comprises at least one linear or branched, saturated orunsaturated, hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, for example by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0525] The term "ester" is understood to mean, in the usual way, an ester of a carboxylic acid and an alcohol.

[0526] The liquid fatty esters are non-silicone esters (do not comprise any Si-0 bond). They are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0527] The liquid fatty ester(s) that may be employed within the context of the present invention are preferably esters of a fatty acid, especially esters of a C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, carboxylic acid (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), it being possible for said acid to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted, for example by one or more (especially 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups (OH).

[0528] Said carboxylic acid may be a monoacid or a polyacid, preferably a monoacid.

[0529] Said carboxylic acid may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. Preferably, said acid is not substituted.

[0530] Advantageously, said carboxylic acid is a linear or branched, saturated (and not substituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22 monoacid.

[0531] Most particularly, said acid may be a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, in particular C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C11, better still C4-C10, or even C5-C9, monoacid.

[0532] The liquid fatty ester(s) that may be employed within the context of the present invention are preferably esters of a carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C3-C22, alcohol (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), it being possible for said alcohol to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted.

[0533] Said alcohol may be a monoalcohol or a polyol, preferably a monoalcohol. Said alcohol may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. Preferably, said alcohol is not substituted.Advantageously, said alcohol is a linear or branched, saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C3-C22, monoalcohol.

[0534] Most particularly, said alcohol may be a linear (unsubstituted) saturated Cs-C22, notably C10-C20 or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C15, better still C3-C13 or even C3-C9 monoalcohol.

[0535] Thus, the liquid fatty ester(s) that may be employed in the context of the present invention are advantageously, alone or as a mixture, esters of a C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, carboxylic acid (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), it being possible for said acid to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted, for example by one or more (especially 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups (OH); and of a C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C3-C22, alcohol (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), it being possible for said alcohol to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted; preferably, at least one of the alcohol and the acid is branched.

[0536] Among the liquid fatty esters that may be used, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0537] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid is branched.

[0538] Preferably, mention may be made of esters of a linear or branched, saturated (and not substituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, monoacid; and a linear or branched, saturated C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C3-C22, monoalcohol; at least one of the alcohol and the acid being branched.

[0539] Advantageously, mention may be made of esters of a linear, saturated (and not substituted) C8-C22, notably C10-C20 or even C12-C18 monoacid, or a branched, saturated (and not substituted) C3-C11, better still C4-C10 or even C5-C9 monoacid; and of a linear, saturated (and not substituted) C8-C22, notably C10-C20 or even C12-C18monoalcohol, or a branched, saturated (and not substituted) C3-C15, better still C3-C13 or even C3-C9 monoalcohol; at least one of the alcohol and the acid being branched.

[0540] Mention may more particularly be made, alone or as a mixture, of:

[0541] - ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate or 2-octyldecyl palmitate;

[0542] - isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate;

[0543] - isoamyl laurate, isocetyl laurate or 2-hexyldecyl laurate;

[0544] - isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate or 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate;

[0545] - isodecyl neopentanoate or isostearyl neopentanoate;

[0546] - 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isocetyl stearate or isobutyl stearate;

[0547] - isostearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate or isodecyl octanoate;

[0548] - decyl oleate or isodecyl oleate;

[0549] - isocetyl isostearate;

[0550] - octyldodecyl erucate or oleyl erucate;

[0551] - octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate;

[0552] - isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate.

[0553] In one preferred embodiment, the liquid fatty ester(s) may be chosen from the liquid esters of a Cu-Cis carboxylic acid and a C1-C5 alcohol.

[0554] Among said liquid esters of a C14-C18 carboxylic acid and a C1-C5 alcohol, mention may be made in particular of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C14-Ci8 or branched C14-C18 aliphatic mono- or polyacids, and saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C5 or branched C3-C5 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols.

[0555] Preference is given to using one or more esters of a C14-C18 monocarboxylic acid and of a C1-C5 monoalcohol.

[0556] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, one at least of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are obtained is branched, preferably the alcohol.

[0557] Better still, one or more liquid esters of a linear C14-C18, notably C15-17, even better still Ci6 monocarboxylic acid and a branched C3-C5, notably C3, monoalcohol are used.

[0558] Mention may be made in particular of the liquid esters of myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid and of a C1-C5 monoalcohol, especially a branched C3-C5monoalcohol, and in particular isopropyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0559] Even better still, the liquid fatty ester(s) are chosen from isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof; and very optimally isopropyl palmitate.

[0560] Preferably, when they are present, the liquid fatty ester(s) are present in the composition (B) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight, even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0561] Preferably, when they are present, the liquid fatty ester(s) of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26 mono- or polyacids and of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26 mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, are present in the composition (B) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight and even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0562] Better still, when they are present, the liquid fatty ester(s) of a linear, saturated (and not substituted) C8-C22, notably C10-C20 or even C12-C18 monoacid, or a branched, saturated (and not substituted) C3-C11, better still C4-C10 or even C5-C9 monoacid; and of a linear, saturated (and not substituted) C8-C22, notably C10-C20 or even C12-C18 monoalcohol, or a branched, saturated (and not substituted) C3-C15, better still C3-C13 or even C3-C9 monoalcohol; at least one of the alcohol and the acid being branched, are present in the composition (B) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight, even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0563] Preferably, in the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention, the weight ratio between the total amount of liquid fatty ester(s), on the one hand, and the total amount of Camellia oleifera oil(s), on the other, is greater than or equal to 1, better still greater than or equal to 2, even better still greater than or equal to 3, even better still greater than or equal to 3.5, or even greater than or equal to 3.8, even better still greater than or equal to 4, or even than or to 5.Advantageously, this weight ratio may be between 1 and 20, or even between 2 and 20, especially between 3 and 18, better still between 3.5 and 15, even better still between 3.8 and 12, or even between 4 and 10, and preferentially between 5 and 8.

[0564] Solid fatty substances

[0565] Advantageously, the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one solid fatty substance.

[0566] Preferably, the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty substance.

[0567] This or these fatty substance(s) are not silicone-based (they do not contain any Si-0 bonds).

[0568] The term "solid" is understood to mean that the compound has a melting point of strictly greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).

[0569] The solid fatty substances may be chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, waxes, butters and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0570] Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0571] The solid fatty substances are preferably other than fatty acids.

[0572] The term "fatty acids" is understood to mean a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, they are linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated.

[0573] The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0574] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups,comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0575] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, monoalcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30 or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0576] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1 -tetradec anol); cetyl alcohol (or 1 -hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1 -octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1 -tetracos anol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1 -octacos anol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0577] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol; better still, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0578] The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from the esters obtained from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or a C9-C26 fatty alcohol, different from the liquid fatty esters above; better still, they are chosen from the esters obtained from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0579] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may be optionally hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0580] Use may also be made of the esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and the esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0581] Mention may notably be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexylstearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0582] Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from the solid esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol, and better still from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, notably myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0583] Preferably, use is made of one or more esters of a C12-C20 monocarboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 monoalcohol; more preferentially, one or more esters of a C14-Ci8 monocarboxylic acid and of a Cu-Cis monoalcohol.

[0584] Preferably, use is made of one or more esters of a linear, saturated C12-C20 carboxylic monoacid and of a linear, saturated C12-C20 monoalcohol; more preferentially one or more esters of a linear, saturated C14-C18 carboxylic monoacid and of a linear, saturated C14-C18 monoalcohol.

[0585] Mention may in particular be made of esters of myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid, and of myristyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol or stearic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetyl esters (INCI name: Cetyl esters).

[0586] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.

[0587] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.Mention may notably be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork fibre or sugarcane waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax, absolute waxes of flowers; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

[0588] Mention may further be made of C2 to Ceo microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

[0589] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0590] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched Cs to C32 fatty chains.

[0591] Among these waxes, mention may in particular be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, particularly the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and bis( 1,1,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, particularly the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

[0592] The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used.

[0593] A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.

[0594] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.

[0595] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance ozokerite, lignite, petroleum jelly or paraffin wax; plant waxes, for instance cork fibre wax or sugar cane wax, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0596] Ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0597] Mention may be made, as compounds which are particularly preferred, of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N- [2 -hydroxypalmitoyl] aminooctadecane- 1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1, 3, 4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane- 1 ,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyljmalonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-Oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.

[0598] One or more butters may also be used.

[0599] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "butter" (also known as "pasty fatty substance") is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound having areversible solid / liquid change in state and comprising, at a temperature of 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0600] Preferably, the butters according to the invention have a melting starting point of greater than 25°C and a melting end point of less than 60°C, at atmospheric pressure.

[0601] Preferably, the butters are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann’s Encyclopaedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, published online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

[0602] Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospennum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea slenoplera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. hulyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma hulyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter, and also mixtures thereof.

[0603] Shea butter (with INCI name: BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER) is a preferred example of a butter.

[0604] Preferably, the solid fatty substances are chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0605] Better still, the solid fatty substances are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, saturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, monoalcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; esters of a saturated, linear or branched, carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a saturated, linear or branched, monoalcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the saturated carboxylic acids being optionally hydroxylated.

[0606] Even better still, the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention comprises both one or more saturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, monoalcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; and one or more esters of a saturated, linear or branched, carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a saturated, linear or branched, monoalcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the saturated carboxylic acids being optionally hydroxylated.

[0607] Preferably, the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention comprises the solid fatty substance(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, especially from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 3% to 15% by weight, even better still from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0608] Preferably, the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention comprises the solid fatty substance(s) chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 3% to 15% by weight, even better still from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0609] Additional fatty substances

[0610] Advantageously, the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional fatty substances, different from the solid fatty substances and liquid fatty esters above, which may be chosen from, alone or as a mixture, silicones, liquid hydrocarbons, non-(poly)oxyalkylenated liquid fatty alcohols, triglyceride-type oils of plant or synthetic origin other than the Camellia oleifera oils above, and mineral oils.Said additional fatty substances in the composition (B) are other than Camellia oleifera oil, and than the liquid fatty esters and solid fatty substances that are optionally present in the composition (B), as described previously. The liquid hydrocarbons may be Ce-Cis liquid hydrocarbons and be linear, branched or optionally cyclic; they are preferably chosen from Cs-Ci6, particularly C10-C14, alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0611] The liquid hydrocarbons may also be chosen from those comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; mention may be made of liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0612] The non-(poly)oxyalkylenated liquid fatty alcohols may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0613] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0614] The silicones, which are volatile or non-volatile, may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0615] The volatile silicones may be chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure) and more particularly from:i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type having the chemical structure:

[0616]

[0617] mixtures of cyclic silicones with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

[0618] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity of less than or equal to 5xl0'6m2 / s at 25 °C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0619] Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, poly alkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes including in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, amine groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene or poly oxypropylene groups.

[0620] The organomodified silicones may be poly diarylsiloxanes, notably poly diphenylsiloxanes, and poly alkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes .

[0621] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes including:

[0622] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups optionally comprising C6-C24alkyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyols;

[0623] - substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, in particular C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups;

[0624] - alkoxylated groups;

[0625] - hydroxylated groups, for instance polyorganosiloxanes bearing a hydroxy alkyl function;

[0626] - acyloxy alkyl groups;

[0627] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, of the alkylcarboxylic type, or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type;

[0628] - hydroxy acylamino groups.

[0629] The silicones may also be chosen from poly dialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of trimethylsilyl-terminated poly dimethylsiloxanes.

[0630] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA).

[0631] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from IxlO'5to 5xl0'2m2 / s at 25°C.

[0632] The silicones that may be used may be aminosilicones. The term “amino silicone” denotes any silicone including at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0633] Preferably, the aminosilicone(s) that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen from:

[0634] a) the poly siloxanes corresponding to formula (A):

[0635]

[0636] in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 approximately;

[0637] b) the aminosilicones corresponding to formula (B):

[0638] R'aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2-b)m-O-SiG3-a-R'a(B) in which:- G, which is identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a group from among phenyl, OH, Ci-Cs alkyl, for example methyl, or Ci-Cs alkoxy, for example methoxy;

[0639] - a, which is identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0640] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10;

[0641] - R’, which is identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqHiqL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups: -N(R")2; -N+(R")3 A"; -NR"-Q-N(R")2 and -NR"-Q-N+(R")3 A", in which R", which is identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula CrH2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A" represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0642] Preferably, the aminosilicones of formula (B) are chosen from the aminosilicones corresponding to formulae (C), (D), (E), (F), (G) below:

[0643] A / the "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone" silicones corresponding to formula (C):

[0644]

[0645] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and especially from 1 to 10.

[0646] B / the silicones of formula (D) below:

[0647]

[0648] in which:

[0649] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999, notably from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;

[0650] - Ri, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 denoting an alkoxy radical.

[0651] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1. The weight- average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000000 and more particularly from 3500 to 200000.

[0652] C / the silicones of formula (E) below:

[0653]

[0654] in which:

[0655] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999, notably from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to239, and q possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;

[0656] - Ri and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical.

[0657] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000, even more particularly from 5000 to 100000 and more particularly from 10000 to 50000.

[0658] D / the silicones of formula (F) below:

[0659]

[0660] in which:

[0661] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999, and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and notably from 1 to 10;

[0662] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0663] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200000.

[0664] E / the silicones of formula (G) below:

[0665]

[0666] in which:

[0667] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10;

[0668] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0669] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000000 and even more particularly from 1000 to 200000.

[0670] As aminosilicones that may be used, mention may also be made of:

[0671] (i) the aminosilicones corresponding to formula (H):

[0672]

[0673] in which:

[0674] - Rs represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

[0675] - Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, notably a Ci-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

[0676] - Q" is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate;- r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

[0677] - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50;

[0678] (ii) the silicones comprising a quaternary ammonium, of formula (I):

[0679]

[0680] in which:

[0681] - R7, which are identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0682] - Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, notably a Ci-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

[0683] - Rs, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a radical -Re-NHCOR?; - X" is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate;

[0684] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.

[0685]

[0686] in which:

[0687] - Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which are identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

[0688] - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

[0689] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0690] - x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g.

[0691] (iv) the multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of (AB)ntype, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.

[0692] Said silicones are preferably formed of repeating units having the following general formulae:

[0693] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R")-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or else [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R")-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-]

[0694] in which:

[0695] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more

[0696] particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0697] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;

[0698] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0699] - R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0700] - R, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2-radical; preferentially, R denotes a H2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical;

[0701] - R', which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0702] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.

[0703] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.The weight- average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000000 and more particularly between 10000 and 200000.

[0704] (v) the alpha, omega-bis-amino silicones corresponding to formula (K) below:

[0705]

[0706] in which:

[0707] - the radicals R represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, an OH group or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group,

[0708] - the radicals Rl, R2, R3 and R4 represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce alkyl group or a Ci-Ce aminoalkyl group;

[0709] - x is between 0 and 6, y is between 0 and 6, and

[0710] - n is such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the aminosilicone is between 5000 and 200000 g / mol.

[0711] Preferably, the radicals R are identical and represent CH3 (methyl).

[0712] Preferably, Rl, R2, R3 and R4 represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4, better still C2-C4, alkyl group, which is preferably linear and saturated, especially ethyl; or a C2-C4 aminoalkyl group, especially of structure -(CaH2a)-NH2 with a = 2 to 4; in particular aminoethyl (-CH2-CH2-NH2).

[0713] Preferably, x is between 1 and 5, better still between 2 and 4, even better still x = 3.

[0714] Preferably, y is between 1 and 5, better still between 2 and 4, even better still y = 3.

[0715] Preferably, x = y.

[0716] Preferably, n is such that the weight- average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is between 10000 and 150000 g / mol, or even between 15000 and 100000 g / mol.

[0717] More preferentially, the aminosilicone corresponds to formula (K) in which the radicals R represent a methyl group, x = y = 3 and Rl, R2, R3 and R4 represent a hydrogen atom; it is then a bis-aminopropyl dimethicone (INCI name).

[0718] Preferably, the additional fatty substances are chosen from silicones, especially amino silicones.When they are present, the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention may comprise the additional fatty substance(s) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0719] When they are present, the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention may comprise the silicone(s) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0720] When they are present, the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention may comprise the aminosilicone(s) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0721] Polyols

[0722] Preferably, the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention may further comprise one or more polyols.

[0723] Preferably, the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more polyols.

[0724] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" is understood to mean an organic compound constituted of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl (-OH) groups, preferably borne by different carbon atoms, it being possible for this compound to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.

[0725] More particularly, the polyol or polyols comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, better still from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, preferentially from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups. They preferably comprise from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, particularly from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0726] Advantageously, the polyol or polyols are chosen from diglycerol, glycerol, propylene glycol, propane- 1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane- 1,2-diol, octane- 1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycerol,propylene glycol, propane- 1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane- 1,2-diol, octane- 1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof, and even better still from glycerol, propylene glycol, propane- 1,3-diol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0727] When they are present, the polyol or polyols may be present in the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0728] Other ingredients

[0729] The composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention may advantageously comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4 alcohols, especially monoalcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0730] The composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention may comprise water, preferably in a total content of between 65% and 98% by weight, preferably between 70% and 95% by weight, preferentially between 75% and 92% by weight and even better still between 80% and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0731] The pH of the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6, preferentially from 3.6 to 5.5.

[0732] The composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more (poly)carboxylic acids, identical to or different from the possible (poly)carboxylic acids present in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention.

[0733] The description hereinabove of the (poly)carboxylic acids which can be used in the composition (A) is reprised here in its entirety to describe the (poly )carboxy lie acids which can be used in the composition (B).

[0734] The one or more (poly)carboxylic acids which can be present in the composition (B) are preferably chosen from lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, andmixtures thereof, more preferentially from tartaric acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof, and better still from tartaric acid.

[0735] The composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention preferably comprises said (poly)carboxylic acid(s) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0736] The composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one or more standard cosmetic ingredients chosen in particular from thickeners, gelling agents, sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; hair- straightening agents; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; micas, nacres, glitter flakes; plasticizers or coalescers; pigments; fillers; fragrances; and basifying or acidifying agents. The person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention, and also the amounts thereof, so that they do not harm the properties of the composition (B).

[0737] According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention, which is preferably cosmetic, comprises:

[0738] (i) at least one cationic surfactant TCB,

[0739] (ii) at least one Camellia oleifera oil,

[0740] (iii) optionally at least one liquid fatty ester,

[0741] (iv) optionally at least one solid fatty substance, and

[0742] (v) optionally at least one additional fatty substance.

[0743] According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition (B) employed in the process according to the invention, which is preferably cosmetic, comprises:

[0744] (i) at least one cationic surfactant TCB, preferably chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain,

[0745] (ii) at least one Camellia oleifera oil,(iii) at least one liquid fatty ester, preferably chosen from liquid fatty esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6

[0746] (iv) at least one solid fatty substance, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, and

[0747] (v) at least one additional fatty substance, preferably chosen from silicones, especially aminosilicones.

[0748] The process:

[0749] The treatment process according to the invention is preferably a process for dyeing keratin fibres.

[0750] According to one embodiment, step a) is carried out before step b).

[0751] According to another embodiment, step b) is carried out before step a). Preferably, step a) is carried out before step b).

[0752] When the treatment process according to the invention is a process for oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, the composition (A) employed in step a) of the process according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye, and optionally, further, at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

[0753] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “chemical oxidizing agent” is understood to mean an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.

[0754] The chemical oxidizing agent(s) (or bleaching agents) that may be used may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their optional cofactors), among which mention may be made of peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricases, and 4-electron oxygenases, such as laccases, and mixtures thereof.

[0755] More preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is or are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably hydrogen peroxide.According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably as described above.

[0756] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) does not comprise any chemical oxidizing agent as described above.

[0757] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention is a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular a process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, comprising at least the steps (1) of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (Al) comprising at least one oxidation dye and not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent, as described above, and (2) of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (B) as described previously.

[0758] According to this first embodiment of the invention, the treatment process preferably comprises the use of a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent as described above.

[0759] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in the composition (O) ranges from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (O).

[0760] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts and mixtures thereof in the oxidizing composition (O) ranges from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (O).

[0761] According to this first embodiment of the invention, the composition (Al) may be applied to the keratin fibres simultaneously with or sequentially to the oxidizing composition (O).

[0762] More preferentially, according to this first embodiment, the treatment process according to the invention comprises at least the following steps:

[0763] (1) a step of preparing a composition (AM) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing:

[0764] of a composition (Al) comprising:

[0765] (i) at least one oxidation dye as defined above,

[0766] (ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA as defined above, and

[0767] (iii) at least one cationic polymer as defined above, and(iv) at least one fatty substance CGA as defined above,

[0768] said composition (Al) not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent; with

[0769] a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents such as those described above; then

[0770] (2) a step of applying said composition (AM) to the keratin fibres, and

[0771] (3) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) as described above.

[0772] According to this first embodiment of the invention, step (1) of preparing a composition (AM) is advantageously carried out at the time of use, just before the composition (AM) is applied to the keratin fibres.

[0773] Preferably, step (2) is carried out before step (3); more preferentially, step (1) is carried out, then step (2) and then step (3).

[0774] Preferably, according to this first embodiment of the invention, said composition (Al) is mixed with the oxidizing composition (O) in a weight ratio (Al): (O) ranging from 1 : 3 to 1:1; more preferentially from 1 : 2 to 1 : 1.

[0775] The pH of composition (AM) generally ranges from 8 to 13, preferably from 8.5 to 12, and better still 9 to 11.5.

[0776] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition (AM) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing as defined above, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, ranges from 500 mPa.s to 4000 mPa.s, preferentially from 550 mPa.s to 3500 mPa.s, more preferentially from 550 mPa.s to 3000 mPa.s, better still from 600 mPa.s to 2800 mPa.s, even better from 650 mPa.s to 2400 mPa.s.

[0777] The dynamic viscosity of the composition (AM) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing as defined above may be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100 rheometer and at a rotation speed of 200 rpm, the measurement being taken after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

[0778] Said oxidizing composition (O) optionally used in the process according to the invention advantageously comprises water.

[0779] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in the composition (AM) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.1% to 20%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (AM).Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof in the composition (AM) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.1% to 20%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (AM).

[0780] When the treatment process according to the invention is a process for direct dyeing of keratin fibres, the composition (A) applied to the keratin fibres in step a) of the process according to the invention comprises at least one direct dye, and does not comprise either an oxidation dye or a chemical oxidizing agent as described above.

[0781] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention is a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular a process for the direct dyeing of keratin fibres, comprising at least the steps (1) of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (A2), and (2) of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (B) as described above.

[0782] Preferably, according to this second embodiment, the keratin fibre treatment process, in particular a process for the direct dyeing of keratin fibres, comprises at least the following steps:

[0783] (1) a step of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (A2) comprising:

[0784] (1) at least one direct dye as defined above,

[0785] (ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA as defined above,

[0786] (iii) at least one cationic polymer as defined above, and

[0787] (iv) at least one fatty substance CGA as defined above,

[0788] said composition (Al) not comprising any oxidation dye or chemical oxidizing agent, and

[0789] (2) a step of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (B) as described above.

[0790] The keratin fibre treatment process according to the present invention may optionally comprise additional steps, for example a step comprising a leave-on time after application and / or a rinsing before and / or after application and / or a washing before and / or after application and / or a drying.The compositions of the process according to the invention may be applied to dry or wet hair, and also to all types of light or dark, natural or dyed, permanent-waved, bleached or relaxed fibres.

[0791] The application of the compositions of the process according to the invention to the keratin fibres may be carried out via any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush, with the hand or with the fingers.

[0792] The treatment process according to the invention is generally carried out at room temperature (between 15°C and 30°C).

[0793] The process of the invention may especially comprise a step of washing the keratin fibres before applying the compositions described previously. It may also comprise a washing step after the application of the compositions described previously.

[0794] The phrase "step of washing the keratin fibres" refers in the sense of the present invention to a step of applying a shampoo to the keratin fibres.

[0795] According to one embodiment of the invention, the process consists in applying to the keratin fibres an effective amount of the compositions described previously, optionally massaging the fibres, optionally leaving the compositions on the fibres, and rinsing.

[0796] The leave-on time of the compositions described previously on the keratin fibres may be between a few seconds and 60 minutes and preferably between 30 seconds and 45 minutes.

[0797] Preferably, the process according to the invention comprises a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water before and / or after the steps of applying the compositions described previously.

[0798] Preferably, a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water is carried out between steps a) and b) of the process according to the invention.

[0799] More preferentially, the process of the invention employs step a) as described above, then a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water, and then step b) as described above.

[0800] More preferentially, the process of the invention employs step a) as described above, then a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water, then a step of washing the keratin fibres, and then step b) as described above.

[0801] An optional step of drying the keratin fibres may be employed after the steps of applying the compositions described previously.Preferably, a step of drying is carried out after the application of the compositions used in the process according to the invention, and more particularly after the optional steps of rinsing with water.

[0802] Device

[0803] Another subject of the invention is a multi-compartment dyeing device or kit. Preferably, the multi-compartment device according to the invention comprises:

[0804] - at least a first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined above;

[0805] - at least a second compartment containing a composition (B) as defined above; and - optionally at least a third compartment containing an oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined above.

[0806] More preferentially, the multi-compartment device according to the invention comprises:

[0807] - at least a first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined above;

[0808] - at least a second compartment containing a composition (B) as defined above; and - at least a third compartment containing an oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined above.

[0809] The composition (A) and the oxidizing composition (O) as described above are packaged in separate compartments, optionally accompanied by suitable identical or different application means, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges.

[0810] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0811] Examples

[0812] Example 1

[0813] The dyeing composition A and the oxidizing composition O as described in Tables 1 and 2 below were prepared. The amounts are expressed as percentages of active material (% AM).[Table 1]

[0814]

[0815] [Table 2

[0816]

[0817] A composition (AM) was prepared by mixing, in a bowl and with a brush, the dyeing composition (A) (Table 1) with the oxidizing composition (O) (Table 2), in the composition (A) / compo sition (O) weight ratio of 1:1.5.

[0818] In addition, the composition B as described below in Table 3 was prepared. The amounts are expressed as percentages of active material (% AM).

[0819] [Table 3]

[0820]

[0821] In a first stage, the composition (AM) derived from the mixing of composition (A) with composition (O), is applied to locks of natural hair containing 90% grey hairs, at a rate of 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.

[0822] After a leave-on time of 30 minutes at a temperature of 27 °C, the hair is rinsed with water.

[0823] Then, in a second stage, the composition (B) is applied to the locks of hair treated beforehand with the composition (AM), at a rate of 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.

[0824] After a leave-on time of 5 minutes at a temperature of 27 °C, the hair is rinsed with water and then dried in an oven (60°C).

[0825] The dyeing of the hair treated with the process according to the invention presents a good intensity, chromaticity and fastness, with also with a good color buildup and low selectivity.The treatment process according to the invention leads to good comfort of the scalp during application. The compositions employed in the treatment process according to the invention have a pleasant odour, and also a creamy and fondant texture during application allowing homogeneous deposition thereof on the keratin fibres (no running).

[0826] The hair treated with the process according to the invention is particularly shiny, light, soft to the touch, smooth to the touch, supple, easy to disentangle and more manageable.

[0827] Example 2

[0828] The dyeing composition Al according to the invention and the comparative composition A2 as described in Table 4 below were prepared. The amounts are expressed as percentages of active material (% AM).

[0829] [Table 4]

[0830]

[0831] The oxidizing composition O and the composition B as described in the tables 2 and 3 of the example 1 were also used in the example 2.A composition (AMI) was prepared by mixing, in a bowl and with a brush, the dyeing composition (Al) (Table 4) with the oxidizing composition (O) (Table 2), in the composition (Al) / composition (O) weight ratio of 1:1.5.

[0832] Furthermore, a composition (AM2) was prepared by mixing, in a bowl and with a brush, the dyeing composition (A2) (Table 4) with the oxidizing composition (O) (Table 2), in the composition (A2) / composition (O) weight ratio of 1:1.5.

[0833] Two processes were carried out on locks of natural hair containing 90% grey hairs.

[0834] According to process Pl, the composition (AMI) derived from the mixing of composition (Al) with composition (O), is applied to the locks at a rate of 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.

[0835] After a leave-on time of 35 minutes at a temperature of 35°C, the hair is rinsed with water.

[0836] Then, in a second stage, the composition (B) is applied to the locks of hair treated beforehand with the composition (AMI), at a rate of 0.4 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.

[0837] After a leave-on time of 5 minutes at ambient temperature (around 20°C), the hair is rinsed with water and then dried in an oven (60°C).

[0838] The process P2 differs from the process Pl in that the composition (AM2) was applied instead of the composition (AMI).

[0839] Process Pl is a process according to the invention and process P2 is a comparative process.

[0840] The colorimetric measurements were performed on each of the treated locks using a Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.

[0841] L* represents the intensity of the hair dyeing, measured on the locks of dyed hair. The lower the L* value, the darker, more powerful, more intense the hair dyeing.

[0842] The results obtained are collated in Table 5 below:[Table 5

[0843]

[0844] The hair dyeing obtained with the process Pl according to the invention exhibits lower L* values than the hair dyeing obtained with the comparative process P2.

[0845] The process Pl according to the invention provides a more intense hair dyeing than with the comparative process P2.

Claims

1. CLAIMS1. Process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least the following steps:a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (A) comprising:(i) at least one dye,(ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA,(iii) at least one cationic polymer,(iv) at least one fatty substance CGA, andb) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) comprising:(i) at least one cationic surfactant TCB, and(ii) at least one Camellia oleifera oil.

2. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the dye(s) are chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from oxidation dyes.

3. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxidation dye(s) are chosen from oxidation bases and couplers, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, metaphenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, coupling agents based on naphthalene, heterocyclic coupling agents, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially still from paraphenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, metaaminophenol, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydro xyethyl-3 ,4-methylenedioxy aniline, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxyindole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxy aniline, 2, 4-diamino-l-(B-hydroxyethyloxy / benzene, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

4. Process according to any one of Claims 2 or 3, characterized in that the direct dye(s) are chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, nitroaryl direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) TCA are chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the composition (A) comprises at least two cationic surfactants TCA chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof; more preferentially still, the composition (A) comprises as cationic surfactants TCA at least one first fatty amine cationic surfactant and at least one second quaternary ester cationic surfactant.

6. Process according to Claim 5, characterized in that the fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one Ce- C30 hydrocarbon chain;more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof;more preferentially still from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;and even better brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

7. Process according to any one of Claims 5 or 6, characterized in that the quaternary ester cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) below:in which:- Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group,- R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups,- A and A' represent, independently of each other, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, and- X" represents an anion.

8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of cationic surfactant(s) TCA ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 7% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic polysaccharides; more preferentially still from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, especially cationic guar gums, and mixtures thereof; better still from cationic galactomannan gums, especially cationic guar gums.

10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance(s) CGA are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms,solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof; more preferentially still from plant oils, solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of fatty substance(s) CGA ranges from 0.5% to 55% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 45% by weight, even more preferentially from 5% to 35% by weight, better still from 10% to 30% by weight, even better still from 20% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) TCB are chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants, preferably from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one Ce- C30 hydrocarbon chain;more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof;more preferentially still from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;and even better still stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of cationic surfactant(s) TCB ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferentiallystill from 0.5% to 7% by weight, better still from 1% to 6% by weight, even better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of Camellia oleifera oil(s) ranges from 0.15% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.17% to 2% by weight, more preferentially from 0.18% to 1.5% by weight, better still from 0.19 % to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

16. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (A) does not comprise any chemical oxidizing agent.

17. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the composition (A) comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids, oxidase enzymes, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof;better still hydrogen peroxide.

18. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that step a) is carried out before step b).

19. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 16 or 18, comprising at least the following steps:(1) a step of preparing a composition (AM) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing:- of a composition (Al) comprising:(i) at least one oxidation dye, preferably as defined in Claim 3,(ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA as defined in any one of Claims 1 and 5 to 7, (iii) at least one cationic polymer as defined in any one of Claims 1 or 9,(iv) at least one fatty substance CGA as defined in any one of Claims 1 or 11, and said composition (Al) not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent; with - a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents; then(2) a step of applying said composition (AM) to the keratin fibres, and(3) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) as defined in any one of Claims 1 and 13 to 15;preferably, step (2) is carried out before step (3).

20. Multi-compartment device comprising:- at least a first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 12 and 16 to 17;- at least a second compartment containing a composition (B) as defined in any one of Claims 1 and 13 to 15; and- optionally at least a third compartment containing an oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined in Claim 17.

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