Outdoor wool trouser fabric and preparation method thereof

Abstract

The invention provides an outdoor wool trouser fabric and a preparation method thereof, and the outdoor wool trouser fabric comprises a first protection layer which is arranged on the outermost side of the fabric and is used for providing wear-resistant protection and an external barrier; the second elastic supporting layer is arranged below the first protective layer, is interwoven and connected with the first protective layer and is used for providing dimensional elasticity and deformation support of the fabric; according to the invention, a full-link color spinning mode is constructed by adopting the first stock solution color filaments and the wool blended color spun yarns, and a low-temperature setting process at 130-140 DEG C is matched, so that a high-temperature and high-pressure environment at 130 DEG C or above in a traditional embryo dyeing process is completely avoided. The whole-process low-temperature steady-state processing mode effectively protects the natural protein structure of the wool fiber from being damaged by thermal denaturation, so that the original soft and glutinous hand feeling and biological activity of the wool are kept. In combination with the physical smoothing effect of oxidation desquamation treatment on fiber scales, the common needling feeling of the wool fabric is eliminated from the source, and the physiological comfort degree of close-fitting wearing is remarkably improved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of clothing fabrics, and more specifically, relates to an outdoor wool trouser fabric and its preparation method. Background Technology

[0002] In recent years, with the integration of outdoor sports and urban commuting scenarios, the market demand for wool fabrics that combine business style with sports protection has been growing.

[0003] However, existing outdoor wool fabrics face significant technical bottlenecks in practical applications. Most mainstream outdoor trouser fabrics are pure synthetic fibers such as nylon-spandex or polyester-spandex, which, while protective, lack the comfortable feel of natural fibers.

[0004] Traditional wool blend fabrics, when dyeing dark-colored raw fabrics, must undergo a high-temperature and high-pressure environment of over 130 degrees Celsius to ensure the dyeing of chemical fibers such as polyester or nylon. These harsh dyeing conditions irreversibly damage the protein structure of wool fibers and the molecular elasticity of spandex, causing the wool scales to become damaged and hardened, resulting in a strong itchy sensation. At the same time, the fabric also suffers from a rough and stiff feel and difficulty in meeting weight requirements.

[0005] Furthermore, due to the decrease in fiber cohesion caused by high-temperature damage, the wool fibers at the bottom layer of the fabric are very likely to penetrate the base fabric and overflow to the surface layer during high-intensity outdoor stretching activities, which is called the "wool-diving phenomenon". This not only seriously deteriorates the feel, but also causes a significant reduction in the dimensional stability and elastic recovery performance of the fabric under movement.

[0006] This fiber damage caused by high-temperature processing constitutes a systemic defect in existing technologies that prevents wool fabrics from simultaneously achieving comfort, durability, and adaptability to movement. Summary of the Invention

[0007] To address the shortcomings of existing technologies, the present invention provides an outdoor wool trouser fabric and its preparation method. The objectives and benefits of this invention are achieved through the following specific technical means:

[0008] An outdoor wool trouser fabric includes: a first protective layer disposed on the outermost side of the fabric for providing abrasion protection and an external barrier;

[0009] The second elastic support layer is disposed below and interwoven with the first protective layer to provide dimensional elasticity and deformation support for the fabric.

[0010] The third functional temperature control layer is located on the innermost side of the fabric and is interwoven with the second elastic support layer. It is used to directly contact human skin and provide warmth and moisture-wicking functions.

[0011] The first protective layer, the second elastic support layer, and the third functional temperature control layer are spatially coupled through a dynamic stress response structure.

[0012] The dynamic stress response structure includes an asymmetric interlacing component and an interface locking component;

[0013] The asymmetric interlacing component sets the internal stress threshold of different interlayer yarns, so that when the fabric is subjected to external tensile load, it guides the fiber bundles of the third functional temperature control layer to deflect in a specific direction, thereby opening the dynamic breathing channels distributed between the layers and realizing the directional export of hot and humid air.

[0014] The interface locking component is located at the interface between the third functional temperature control layer and the second elastic support layer. It restricts the lateral slippage of the interlayer fibers through micro-anchoring force, so as to maintain the structural stability of the fabric under frequent stretching and suppress the overflow of fluff.

[0015] Preferably, the first protective layer is formed by empty wrapping and twisting a first solution-dyed filament and a first low-temperature spandex filament, and the first solution-dyed filament adopts a solution dyeing process to avoid high-temperature dyeing in the later stage.

[0016] Preferably, the second elastic support layer is formed by empty wrapping and twisting a second solution-dyed filament and a second low-temperature spandex filament.

[0017] The yarn twist of the first protective layer is greater than that of the yarn twist of the second elastic support layer to form an interlayer stress gradient.

[0018] Preferably, the third functional temperature control layer is composed of wool blended colored yarn and third low-temperature spandex yarn twisted together, wherein the wool fiber count in the wool blended colored yarn is not less than 80 metric count.

[0019] Preferably, the asymmetric interlacing component has a six-warp, six-weft mountaineering fabric weave.

[0020] Within one tissue cycle, the weft yarn corresponding to the third functional temperature control layer has at least one floating point that spans more than four warp yarns, forming the opening endpoint of the dynamic breathing channel.

[0021] Preferably, the interface locking component includes an active polymer film layer coated on the surface of the wool blended yarn;

[0022] Under sizing conditions, the active polymer film layer forms a physical adsorption or chemical cross-link with the fiber surface of the second elastic support layer.

[0023] Preferably, the wool fibers in the wool blended yarn undergo oxidative descaling treatment, which partially peels off or passivates the scale layer on the fiber surface, and the wool fiber surface is coated with a softening agent.

[0024] As a preferred option, the following steps are included:

[0025] Step 1: Weave the fabric according to the six-warp, six-weft mountaineering fabric structure, maintaining the tension difference between the warp and weft directions to form the greige fabric;

[0026] Step 2: Perform neutral cold reactor pretreatment using a 1.5% neutral deslurry and control the pH value to 7-8;

[0027] Step 3: Perform initial low-temperature setting, with the setting temperature controlled at 130°C-140°C;

[0028] Step 4: Perform a shearing process on the fabric surface corresponding to the third functional temperature control layer to form a pile layer with a length of 1-1.5 mm;

[0029] Step 5: Perform secondary shaping and functional finishing by adding C6 waterproofing agent at 130°C-140°C.

[0030] Preferably, in step five, the lateral overfeed of the setting machine is adjusted to allow the fabric to have room for elastic elongation during the setting process, thereby activating the sensing sensitivity of the asymmetric interlacing component.

[0031] Preferably, the hair-grabbing and shearing process in step four adopts a multi-grabbing and multi-shearing process, specifically as follows:

[0032] Perform at least two brushing operations and one shearing operation in a cycle to ensure the density and uniformity of the fluff in the third functional temperature control layer.

[0033] Beneficial effects:

[0034] 1. This invention constructs a full-chain dyeing process by using a first solution-dyed filament blended with wool to create dyed yarn, coupled with a low-temperature setting process at 130°C-140°C, completely avoiding the high-temperature and high-pressure environment above 130°C in traditional dyeing processes. This end-to-end low-temperature stable-state processing mode effectively protects the natural protein structure of wool fibers from heat denaturation damage, thus preserving the original soft and supple feel and bioactivity of wool. Combined with the physical smoothing effect of oxidative descaling on the fiber scales, the common needle-like feel of wool fabrics is eliminated at its source, significantly improving the physiological comfort of wearing close to the skin.

[0035] 2. It achieves dynamic breathing regulation of the fabric in response to human movement.

[0036] Through the unique float point design of the six-warp, six-weft mountaineering fabric structure in the asymmetric interweaving components, when the human body is stationary, the long float points are embedded in a wave-like pattern, locking in still air to provide excellent warmth. However, when the human body undergoes significant movement causing dimensional stretching of the fabric, the asymmetric internal stress generated by the twist gradient between the first protective layer and the second elastic support layer guides the fibers at the float points to directional deflection and open physical gaps. This dynamic adjustment mechanism increases the fabric's moisture permeability by over 40% during movement, effectively resolving the contradiction of high-grammage outdoor fabrics being stuffy during activity and cold when stationary, thus improving the product's environmental adaptability.

[0037] 3. The interfacial locking mechanism significantly improves the fabric's structural stability and anti-pilling properties.

[0038] To address the issue of fuzz and pile loss that easily occurs in high-elastic wool fabrics under frequent stretching, this invention utilizes an active polymer film layer in the interface locking component to establish a microscopic anchoring between the third functional temperature control layer and the second elastic support layer. Under low-temperature setting conditions, this film layer forms a composite structure with the filament surface through physical adsorption and chemical cross-linking, acting like countless elastic interlocks between layers, effectively limiting the lateral slippage of wool fiber bundles during stretching cycles. This not only reduces the pile loss rate to below 0.8%, extending the product's lifespan, but also ensures the long-lasting cleanliness and aesthetics of the fabric surface, enhancing brand value.

[0039] 4. Significantly improved color consistency and quality reproducibility in mass production.

[0040] By utilizing the characteristics of dyeing fibers with solution-dyed yarn and spun yarn before weaving, the problems of batch-to-batch color difference commonly found in traditional dyeing processes are completely solved. Because the dyeing process bypasses the high-temperature spray dyeing process using an overflow dyeing vat, defects such as "chicken claw marks" and color variations commonly found in dark-colored fabrics are entirely avoided. The color difference between batches of fabrics prepared by this invention can be stably controlled within 0.5, far exceeding the industry average. This high degree of color control significantly reduces the defect rate in the production process, shortens the delivery cycle, and has extremely high industrial practical value.

[0041] 5. It balances the fabric's excellent elasticity recovery with dimensional stability.

[0042] By introducing a neutral cold-pack pretreatment (PH7-PH8) and reserving elastic elongation space through lateral overfeeding in step five, this invention achieves ultimate protection of the elasticity of low-temperature spandex yarn and precise release of internal stress. This allows the fabric to possess excellent four-way elasticity while controlling the weft shrinkage rate to within 1.5% after washing, effectively solving the problem of permanent deformation and bulging that easily occurs in high-stress areas such as the knees and hips in traditional wool trousers, and ensuring the silhouette stability of the garment after long-term use.

[0043] 6. It achieves a synergistic effect between functional finishing and fiber protection.

[0044] During the secondary setting process, the film-forming and fixation of the C6 waterproofing agent and the chemical activation of the interface bonding components were simultaneously achieved within a heating range of 130°C-140°C. This integrated process not only ensures the fabric's excellent water-repellent properties but also counteracts the potential hardening of the hand feel caused by the waterproofing agent through the bridging effect of the active polymer. This structure-assisted function approach avoids the excessive use of chemical auxiliaries, aligning with the green and low-carbon sustainable development trend of the modern outdoor industry. By coupling innovative organizational structure with low-temperature processing, not only was the technical challenge of protecting wool fibers addressed, but the fabric was also endowed with dynamic adjustment capabilities. Attached Figure Description

[0045] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of the structure of an outdoor wool trouser fabric according to the present invention.

[0046] Figure 2 This is a partially enlarged structural diagram of the first protective layer of an outdoor wool trouser fabric according to the present invention.

[0047] Figure 3 This is a partially enlarged schematic diagram of the second elastic support layer of an outdoor wool trouser fabric according to the present invention.

[0048] Figure 4 This is a partially enlarged structural diagram of the third functional temperature control layer of an outdoor wool trouser fabric according to the present invention.

[0049] Figure 5 for Figure 4 Enlarged structural diagram at point A in the middle.

[0050] Figure 6 This is a schematic diagram of the asymmetric interlacing component structure of an outdoor wool trouser fabric according to the present invention.

[0051] Figure 7 This is a test report image of an outdoor wool trouser fabric according to the present invention.

[0052] Figure 8 This is a step diagram illustrating the preparation method of an outdoor wool trouser fabric according to the present invention.

[0053] In the diagram: 100, First protective layer; 110, First solution-dyed filament; 120, First low-temperature spandex filament; 200, Second elastic support layer; 210, Second solution-dyed filament; 220, Second low-temperature spandex filament; 300, Third functional temperature control layer; 310, Wool blended colored yarn; 320, Third low-temperature spandex filament; 400, Dynamic stress response structure; 410, Asymmetric interlacing component; 420, Interface locking component; 421, Active polymer film layer. Detailed Implementation

[0054] The embodiments of the present invention will be described in further detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings and examples. The following examples are for illustrative purposes only and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

[0055] In the description of this invention, unless otherwise stated, "multiple" means two or more; the terms "upper," "lower," "left," "right," "inner," "outer," "front end," "rear end," "head," and "tail," etc., indicate the orientation or positional relationship based on the orientation or positional relationship shown in the accompanying drawings, and are only for the convenience of describing the invention and simplifying the description, and do not indicate or imply that the device or element referred to must have a specific orientation, or be constructed and operated in a specific orientation, and therefore should not be construed as a limitation of the invention. Furthermore, the terms "first," "second," "third," etc., are used for descriptive purposes only and should not be construed as indicating or implying relative importance.

[0056] In the description of this invention, it should be noted that, unless otherwise explicitly specified and limited, the terms "connected" and "linked" should be interpreted broadly. For example, they can refer to a fixed connection, a detachable connection, or an integral connection; they can refer to a mechanical connection or an electrical connection; they can refer to a direct connection or an indirect connection through an intermediate medium. Those skilled in the art can understand the specific meaning of the above terms in this invention based on the specific circumstances.

[0057] Example

[0058] As attached Figure 1 To be continued Figure 8 As shown:

[0059] This invention provides an outdoor wool trouser fabric, comprising: a first protective layer 100 disposed on the outermost side of the fabric, for providing abrasion-resistant protection and an external barrier;

[0060] The second elastic support layer 200 is disposed below and interwoven with the first protective layer 100 to provide dimensional elasticity and deformation support for the fabric.

[0061] The third functional temperature control layer 300 is located on the innermost side of the fabric and is interwoven with the second elastic support layer 200. It is used to directly contact human skin and provide warmth and moisture-wicking functions.

[0062] The first protective layer 100, the second elastic support layer 200 and the third functional temperature control layer 300 are spatially coupled through a dynamic stress response structure.

[0063] The dynamic stress response structure includes an asymmetric interlacing component 410 and an interface locking component 420.

[0064] The asymmetric interlacing component 410 sets the internal stress threshold of different interlayer yarns so that when the fabric is subjected to external tensile load, it guides the fiber bundles of the third functional temperature control layer 300 to deflect in a specific direction, thereby opening the dynamic breathing channels distributed between the layers and realizing the directional export of hot and humid air.

[0065] The interface locking component 420 is disposed at the interface between the third functional temperature control layer 300 and the second elastic support layer 200. It restricts the lateral slippage of interlayer fibers through micro-anchoring force to maintain the structural stability of the fabric under frequent stretching and to suppress the overflow of fluff.

[0066] This embodiment features a composite fabric that adapts to environmental changes, resolving the performance contradictions of traditional wool fabrics in outdoor scenarios. In practical applications, the traditional high-temperature dyeing process is abandoned, and the entire process adopts solution dyeing and yarn spinning technology. This ensures that the fabric is kept in a low-temperature environment below 140 degrees Celsius throughout the fabrication process, thus fully preserving the softness of wool fibers and the dynamic resilience of spandex.

[0067] When the user is stationary, the three-layer structure is tightly coupled through a dynamic stress response structure. The third functional temperature control layer 300 effectively locks in air through a 1-1.5mm fluff layer formed on its surface, providing a static warmth effect.

[0068] When engaging in outdoor activities, the fabric experiences dimensional tensile loads due to limb traction, at which point the asymmetric interlacing component 410 plays a crucial role. Due to the difference in yarn twist between the first protective layer 100 and the second elastic support layer 200, the resulting internal stress gradient induces asymmetric deflection of the fiber bundles in the third functional temperature control layer 300 at the microscopic level. This deflection mechanism physically separates the originally tightly packed fiber gaps, creating a dynamic breathing channel that allows direct access from the skin to the atmospheric environment.

[0069] Experiments show that when subjected to a 20% constant elongation stretch, the moisture permeability of this structure can be increased to about 9200 grams per square meter for 24 hours, which is significantly better than the 5800 grams per square meter for 24 hours of traditional technology, achieving rapid sweating and cooling during exercise.

[0070] Meanwhile, the interface locking component 420 effectively solves the common problem of fuzz leakage in high-elastic fabrics by forming a micro-anchoring force at the interface between the third functional temperature control layer 300 and the second elastic support layer 200. This component utilizes the physical interaction of the surface-active polymer film layer to firmly anchor the underlying wool fibers to the base fabric structure. Even under frequent dimensional deformation, the fuzz loss rate can still be controlled within 0.8%, far lower than the 3.5% of the control group.

[0071] Compared with existing technologies, the structured dynamic breathing mechanism enables intelligent switching between warmth and breathability, greatly improving the wearer's physiological comfort.

[0072] The low-temperature closed-loop process completely eliminates high-temperature heat damage, giving the fabric excellent color saturation and a soft, supple feel. The color difference between batches is less than 0.5, solving the industry problem of poor color reproducibility in bulk production.

[0073] The interface anchoring design significantly enhances the fabric's structural durability, ensuring that the fabric maintains a delicate touch without the risk of itching in complex outdoor environments.

[0074] Preferably, the first protective layer 100 is formed by empty wrapping and twisting a first solution-dyed filament 110 and a first low-temperature spandex filament 120, and the first solution-dyed filament 110 adopts a solution dyeing process to avoid high-temperature dyeing in the later stage.

[0075] The first protective layer 100 is formed by laminating a first solution-dyed filament 110 and a first low-temperature spandex filament 120 using a hollow-wrapping twisting process. The first solution-dyed filament 110 is preferably made of 70D nylon or 75D polyester, depending on the final fabric requirements. By directly adding color masterbatch during the fiber drawing stage using a solution dyeing process, the first solution-dyed filament 110 possesses a preset color saturation before weaving. This aims to avoid the subsequent dyeing process, ensuring the fabric is not affected by temperatures above 130°C-140°C throughout the entire production process. This fundamentally protects the wool component in the third functional temperature control layer 300 from high-temperature heat loss, resolving the issues of stiffness and itchiness against the skin.

[0076] In terms of structural strength and durability, the first solution-dyed filament 110 and the first low-temperature spandex filament 120 in the first protective layer 100 must be twisted after empty packing. In this embodiment, the twisting ratio is preferably set to 6 twists / cm. The twisting process effectively improves the anti-snagging and anti-pilling properties of the first protective layer 100, enabling it to withstand complex outdoor protection scenarios. In addition, selecting 70D or 75D specifications ensures the thickness of the fabric in autumn and winter while taking into account the delicate touch and visual texture of the fabric surface, avoiding the roughness of the fabric surface caused by excessively coarse fibers and the insufficient abrasion resistance caused by excessively fine fibers.

[0077] The first low-temperature spandex yarn used in conjunction is preferably 40D, which provides the necessary vertical elasticity to the first protective layer 100 in the vertical direction, ensuring that the final trouser fabric has excellent four-way stretch properties. Through synergy with the solution dyeing process, the first protective layer 100 not only solves the problems of batch variation and poor color reproducibility in mass production, but also significantly improves the saturation of dark colors, ensuring that the fabric color remains stable during long-term outdoor use.

[0078] Preferably, the second elastic support layer 200 is formed by empty wrapping and twisting a second liquid-dyed filament 210 and a second low-temperature spandex filament 220.

[0079] The yarn twist of the first protective layer 100 is greater than that of the yarn twist of the second elastic support layer 200 to form an interlayer stress gradient.

[0080] The second elastic support layer 200 is disposed between the first protective layer 100 and the third functional temperature control layer 300, and is formed by combining the second original solution dyed filament 210 and the second low-temperature spandex filament 220 through a hollow-wrapping twisting process.

[0081] The second original dye filament 210 is preferably made of 140D nylon or 150D polyester. Compared with the filament in the first protective layer 100, it has a higher linear density, which is intended to build a stable elastic support skeleton in the middle of the fabric, giving the fabric excellent dimensional elasticity and deformation recovery.

[0082] An asymmetric internal stress setting is implemented between the first protective layer 100 and the second elastic support layer 200. Specifically, the yarn twist of the first protective layer 100 is set to 6 twists / cm, while the yarn twist of the second elastic support layer 200 is set to 5 twists / cm. This specific twist difference design causes the first protective layer 100 to exhibit higher modulus and tensile strength, while the second elastic support layer 200 exhibits relatively higher bulk and physical displacement space, thereby forming a significant interlayer stress gradient in the vertical direction.

[0083] By setting this interlayer stress gradient, when the fabric is subjected to external tensile load, the high-twist first protective layer 100 will preferentially generate stress response and quickly tighten, while the low-twist second elastic support layer 200 will generate hysteretic deformation. This asymmetry in stress response is transmitted to the third functional temperature control layer 300 through the dynamic stress response structure, which can effectively guide the fiber structure of the underlying layer to undergo directional deflection.

[0084] By controlling the twist gradient, the mechanical mode of synchronous deformation of traditional three-layer fabrics is changed, so that the fabric can automatically adjust the gap between layers according to the stretch ratio when the human body moves in a large way, providing a physical power source for opening dynamic breathing channels; the second elastic support layer 200 with lower twist can accommodate more still air, and combined with the low modulus characteristics of the second low temperature spandex yarn 220, the thermal insulation performance of the fabric under static conditions is further improved.

[0085] Furthermore, the second solution-dyed filament 210 also adopts the solution dyeing process, and together with the first solution-dyed filament 110, it forms a full-color spinning system, ensuring the depth and consistency of the overall color of the fabric. At the same time, it avoids the loss of elasticity of the second low-temperature spandex filament 220 due to high-temperature dyeing, and ensures the dimensional stability and resilience consistency of the fabric after long-term use.

[0086] In the empty wrapping stage, an air-wrapping machine is used to feed the first low-temperature spandex filament 120 as the core filament under a certain tension. At the same time, the first solution-dyed filament 110 is used as the outer wrapping filament. Through the turbulence generated by the high-pressure air nozzle, the outer wrapping filament is made to wrap around the surface of the core filament in a spiral or random shape.

[0087] Control the draw ratio to 3.0-3.5 times to ensure that the first low-temperature spandex filament 120 is completely covered, avoiding aging and sticky feel caused by exposed spandex.

[0088] In the twisting stage, the empty-wrapped composite yarn is fed into a doubling machine to impart torque in the S or Z direction.

[0089] The twist is precisely controlled at 6 twists / cm. This high twist setting makes the yarn structure more compact, improving the anti-pilling and anti-fuzzing grade (level 4 or above) and abrasion resistance of the first protective layer 100. At the same time, the twisting can store elastic potential energy, giving the fabric a stronger instantaneous rebound after stretching, thereby effectively driving the operation of the asymmetric interlacing component 410.

[0090] The second solution-dyed filament 210 and the second low-temperature spandex filament 220 are manufactured using the same process.

[0091] Preferably, the third functional temperature control layer 300 is composed of wool blended colored yarn 310 and third low-temperature spandex yarn 320 twisted together, wherein the wool fiber in the wool blended colored yarn 310 has a quality count of not less than 80 metric count.

[0092] The third functional temperature control layer 300 is located on the innermost side of the fabric, that is, the side closest to human skin, and is composed of wool blended colored yarn 310 and third low-temperature spandex yarn 320 through a plying process. In this embodiment, the wool blended colored yarn 310 is preferably made of 50% fine wool and 50% nylon or polyester fiber. By adopting the colored spinning process, the fibers are dyed before yarn formation, thereby forming a complete non-dyed system in conjunction with the first protective layer 100 and the second elastic support layer 200, completely avoiding the problems of wool fiber embrittlement and hardening of hand feel caused by high-temperature overflow dyeing in traditional processes.

[0093] Specifically, the wool fiber count in the wool blended yarn 310 is strictly limited to no less than 80 metric count. High-count fine wool fibers possess physical properties such as small diameter and excellent flexibility, reducing the pressure on the skin from the fiber ends at a microscopic level. Combined with a low-temperature manufacturing process below 140 degrees Celsius throughout the entire process, the natural protein layer and scale structure of the wool fibers are highly protected. Coupled with oxidative descaling treatment, the inherent itching sensation of wool fabrics is greatly eliminated, giving the third functional temperature control layer 300 a silk-like delicate touch and excellent biocompatibility.

[0094] Functionally, the third functional temperature control layer 300 achieves high dynamic follow-up through the interleaving of the third low-temperature spandex filament 320. When the fabric undergoes dimensional deformation under stress, the third low-temperature spandex filament 320 can work in sync with the wool blended colored yarn 310 to stretch and contract synchronously, avoiding fiber separation or breakage caused by mismatch in interlayer modulus.

[0095] By combining high-count wool with low-temperature processing technology, the fabric is endowed with top-notch warmth retention and skin-friendly comfort, solving the skin allergies and discomfort caused by sweating and friction during outdoor sports; the natural moisture absorption and heat release properties of wool fibers, combined with the physical structure of the third functional temperature control layer 300, can quickly absorb the gaseous sweat exhaled by the human body and transfer it to the outside through the pressure gradient generated by the dynamic stress response structure, achieving a balance between dryness and warmth.

[0096] The third low-temperature spandex yarn 320, with its parallel strand structure design, enhances the root adhesion of the inner layer pile. Combined with the interface locking component 420, it significantly improves the fabric's anti-pilling and anti-hair leakage performance after long-term wear, ensuring the appearance quality of outdoor trousers in harsh usage environments.

[0097] The plying process combines two or more independent yarns or filaments together, physically enabling them to work together. The specific setup steps are as follows:

[0098] Using a doubling machine or yarn doubling machine, a wool blended colored yarn 310 and a third low-temperature spandex filament 320 are simultaneously drawn out.

[0099] The third type of low-temperature spandex filament 320 needs to maintain a pretension of 1.5-2.0 times during plying. This pretension setting ensures that the spandex can drive the wool yarn to produce microscopic physical crimps in a relaxed state, thereby providing a richer fiber base for shearing and cutting.

[0100] The two can be combined in parallel or slightly twisted manner. It is preferable to use low twist (e.g., 2-3 twists per centimeter) so that the third low-temperature spandex filament 320 is spirally wound or embedded in the fiber gaps of the wool blended colored yarn 310. This structure can effectively prevent the spandex filament from being mechanically damaged during subsequent weaving and napping processes.

[0101] Preferably, the asymmetric interlacing component 410 has a six-warp, six-weft mountaineering fabric structure.

[0102] Within an organizational cycle, the weft yarn corresponding to the third functional temperature control layer 300 has at least one floating point that spans more than four warp yarns, forming the opening endpoint of the dynamic breathing channel.

[0103] The core of this asymmetric interlacing component 410 is composed of a six-warp, six-weft mountaineering fabric weave. In this embodiment, through precise design of the fabric's micro-geometry, the mechanical and planar cross-linking method between the layers of a traditional three-layer fabric is altered. Within a complete weave cycle, the six-warp, six-weft mountaineering fabric weave, through the asymmetric arrangement of the warp and weft yarn interlacing points, endows the fabric with unique mechanical feedback characteristics.

[0104] Specifically, within one organizational cycle, the weft yarn corresponding to the third functional temperature control layer 300, namely the wool blend colored yarn 310, does not frequently interweave with the warp yarns, but is provided with at least one float point that spans more than four warp yarns. This long float structure allows the wool blend colored yarn 310 to be embedded in a relatively loose and curved state below the second elastic support layer 200 in its natural, unstressed state, and to be covered by the pile layer on its surface to form a sealed static air insulation layer.

[0105] The long floating-point structure constitutes the opening endpoint of the dynamic breathing channel, and its working logic is as follows:

[0106] When the human body engages in outdoor activities such as climbing or striding, causing the fabric to be subjected to lateral or longitudinal tensile loads, the deformation of the first protective layer 100 and the second elastic support layer 200 is relatively limited due to the high twist and tight arrangement of the yarns. However, the long floating point section in the third functional temperature control layer 300, lacking the strong constraint of the warp yarns, will exhibit a significant tendency to straighten and shift under tensile stress. This difference in interlayer displacement creates microscopic gaps between the warp and weft yarns that originally covered the floating points, thereby instantly opening countless evenly distributed dynamic breathing channels inside the fabric.

[0107] The advantage of this design is that it breaks through the technical bottleneck of high-density outdoor mountaineering fabrics, which are warm enough but not breathable. By physically opening the end points, the hot and humid air generated by the human body can pass directly through the first protective layer 100 along the pressure gradient and be discharged, which greatly improves the dynamic moisture permeability and effectively avoids the feeling of cold and stuffiness after exercise;

[0108] The opening and closing of this breathing channel is entirely driven by the stress of human movement, requiring no external energy. When the movement stops and the load disappears, under the synergistic rebound force of the first low-temperature spandex filament 120, the second low-temperature spandex filament 220, and the third low-temperature spandex filament 320, the long floating point quickly returns to its original bent state, automatically closing the dynamic breathing channel, locking in heat again, and achieving a seamless connection of thermal insulation performance;

[0109] This asymmetrical design of the six-warp, six-weft mountaineering fabric also takes into account the fabric's tear resistance. Although there are long floats, the systematic interlacing of the six warp yarns ensures the overall tightness of the fabric structure. Combined with the protective effect of the first protective layer 100, the fabric maintains excellent physical and mechanical properties while allowing for breathing.

[0110] A floating point refers to a section in a weaving structure where a warp yarn (or weft yarn) continuously crosses several interlaced weft yarns (or warp yarns) without creating an interlacing point.

[0111] In a six-warp, six-weft mountaineering fabric structure, the long floating point specifically refers to the wool blended colored yarn 310 in the third functional temperature control layer 300:

[0112] Within the width of the six warp yarns, the wool weft yarn of the wool blended colored spun yarn 310 does not interweave in the conventional one-up-one-down manner, but instead crosses directly from the first warp yarn to below the fifth warp yarn before interweaving once. This means that in the middle four warp yarn interval, the weft yarn is in a floating state.

[0113] Due to the fluffiness of wool fibers, these floats, which are up to four warp yarns long, will naturally bulge slightly without being restrained, forming a 1.0-1.5mm fluff cavity that locks in body heat and provides warmth.

[0114] When the fabric is stretched laterally, the originally curved and floating long floats are forcibly straightened. Due to their large span, the physical displacement caused by straightening creates a significant leverage effect, pushing adjacent warp yarns to create gaps. This instantaneous gap is the dynamic breathing channel created.

[0115] This long floating-point structure sacrifices local connectivity for macroscopic dynamic transparency.

[0116] The specific organization of the six-warp and six-weft mountaineering cloth is as follows: Figure 6As shown: First weft yarn: Warp yarns 1, 3, 4, and 6 float above the weft yarn, while warp yarns 2 and 5 are below the weft yarn;

[0117] The second weft yarn: the 2nd, 5th, and 6th warp yarns float above the weft yarn, while the 1st, 3rd, and 4th warp yarns are below the weft yarn;

[0118] The third weft yarn: the 6th warp yarn floats above the weft yarn, and the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th warp yarns are below the weft yarn;

[0119] The fourth weft yarn: Warp yarns 1, 3, 4, and 6 float above the weft yarn, while warp yarns 2 and 5 are below the weft yarn;

[0120] The fifth weft yarn: the 2nd, 3rd, and 5th warp yarns float above the weft yarn, while the 1st, 4th, and 6th warp yarns are below the weft yarn;

[0121] The sixth weft yarn: the third warp yarn floats above the weft yarn, and the 1st, 2nd, 4th, 5th, and 6th warp yarns are below the weft yarn.

[0122] Reconstruct the raster chart (where 1 represents longitude floating point and 0 represents latitude floating point).

[0123] The 6×6 tissue cycle was restored to a lattice:

[0124] First weft yarn (outer layer, first protective layer 100): 101101 (warp float, compact structure).

[0125] Second weft yarn (middle layer, second elastic support layer 200): 010011 (fewer interlacing points, providing space for elastic displacement).

[0126] The third weft yarn (bottom layer, third functional temperature control layer 300): 000001 (the weft yarn floats on warp yarns 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, with a float length of 5).

[0127] Fourth weft yarn (outer layer, first protective layer 100): 101101 (consistent with the first yarn to ensure continuous fabric texture).

[0128] Fifth weft yarn (middle layer, second elastic support layer 200): 011010 (misaligned with the second yarn to enhance physical anchoring).

[0129] The sixth weft yarn (bottom layer, third functional temperature control layer 300): 001000 (the weft yarn floats on the 1st, 2nd, 4th, 5th, and 6th warp yarns, and the floating point is blocked by the 3rd warp yarn, forming a 2+3 floating length).

[0130] Preferably, the interface locking component 420 includes an active polymer film layer 421 covering the surface of the wool blended colored yarn 310;

[0131] The active polymer film 421 forms physical adsorption or chemical cross-linking with the fiber surface of the second elastic support layer 200 under the shaping conditions.

[0132] The interface locking component 420 is a core technical means to solve the problem of wool leakage and lint loss in high-elasticity wool fabrics under dynamic environments. It mainly consists of an active polymer film layer 421 coated on the surface of the wool blended colored yarn 310. In the pretreatment stage of the manufacturing process, the wool blended colored yarn 310, after oxidative descaling treatment, is immersed in a nanoscale polyurethane emulsion containing specific functional monomers, so that a uniform and reactive film is formed on the fiber surface.

[0133] The active polymer film 421 has a dual mechanism of action:

[0134] First, physical coating and smoothing: the active polymer film layer 421 fills the microscopic pits left on the surface of the wool fibers due to the oxidative descaling process and completely covers the edges of the remaining scales. This not only greatly reduces the coefficient of friction on the fiber surface and eliminates the needle-like sensation at the microscopic level, but also binds individual wool fibers within the yarn body through film formation, improving fiber cohesion.

[0135] Second, regarding interface locking and dynamic anchoring, under the low-temperature initial setting conditions in step three and the secondary setting conditions in step five (i.e., an environment of 130-140 degrees Celsius), the active groups at the ends of the molecular chains of the active polymer film 421 are activated. When the third functional temperature control layer 300 and the second elastic support layer 200 are pressed and contacted at the weaving point, the active polymer film 421 and the surface of the second original solution-dyed filament 210 in the second elastic support layer 200 generate strong physical adsorption, and even form local chemical cross-linking anchor points at the molecular level.

[0136] It not only significantly suppresses wool leakage. In the frequent stretching and recovery cycles common in outdoor trousers, the interface locking component 420 acts like countless microscopic elastic bridges between the two layers of fabric, restricting the slippage of wool fibers along the yarn axis during severe deformation. This fundamentally prevents wool fibers from penetrating the second elastic support layer 200 and overflowing into the first protective layer 100, maintaining the fabric's long-lasting clean appearance.

[0137] It also improves the structural stability of the fabric. Due to the establishment of micro-anchoring between layers, the pile layer of the third functional temperature control layer 300 can still maintain a uniform distribution density after the fabric has undergone multiple washes or high-intensity friction, and the pile loss rate is reduced to below 0.8%, ensuring the long-lasting and constant warmth retention performance;

[0138] Low-temperature environmentally friendly processing is achieved through synergy. The crosslinking reaction temperature of the active polymer film layer 421 perfectly matches the 130-140 degrees Celsius low-temperature process set in this invention. It achieves excellent fastness without the need for ultra-high temperature baking in traditional processes, thus protecting the elastic modulus of the first low-temperature spandex filament 120, the second low-temperature spandex filament 220, and the third low-temperature spandex filament 320 from decay while realizing the fiber locking function.

[0139] Preferably, the wool fibers in the wool blended yarn 310 undergo oxidative descaling treatment, which partially peels off or passivates the scale layer on the fiber surface, and the wool fiber surface is coated with a softening agent.

[0140] During the preparation of the third functional temperature control layer 300, the wool fibers in the wool blended spun yarn 310 need to undergo oxidative descaling treatment beforehand. Wool fibers naturally have a scale layer composed of overlapping keratinocytes. When these scales are subjected to pressure or friction, they will produce a one-way friction effect, which is the root cause of the itching sensation in wool fabrics and felting (shrinkage) during washing.

[0141] In this embodiment, the oxidative descaling treatment uses a weakly acidic oxidation system (such as persulfate or chlorinating agents with a concentration of 0.8-1.2% g / L). By precisely controlling the reaction time and temperature, the scale layer on the surface of the wool fibers is partially peeled off or passivated. This process effectively weakens the sharpness of the scale edges, transforming them from protruding serrated edges to smooth wavy edges or a partially eroded state. Through this change in micromorphology, the physical irritation of the fibers when in contact with human skin is greatly reduced.

[0142] In addition, to further enhance the feel, a softening agent is applied to the surface of the wool fibers. This softening agent is preferably a biomass organosilicon or amino silicone oil microemulsion, in which hydrophilic groups in its molecular structure are oriented on the fiber surface, forming an extremely thin and uniform lubricating film.

[0143] This completely eliminates the itching sensation. The oxidation and descaling process solves the problem of the scales being prickly from a physical structure perspective, while the softening agent provides a smoothing and lubricating effect at the chemical level. The two work together to make the third functional temperature control layer 300 exhibit excellent skin-friendliness when worn close to the skin, and will not cause redness or itching even in a sweaty environment.

[0144] It also enhances dynamic moisture-wicking performance. The partially peeled scale layer increases the specific surface area of ​​the fiber. Combined with the hydrophilic modification of the softening agent, the wool fiber can absorb gaseous sweat from the skin surface more quickly and expel it through the breathing channels opened by the asymmetric interlacing component 410, keeping the skin dry.

[0145] Oxidative descaling treatment significantly reduces the felting shrinkage rate of wool. Combined with the unique end-to-end low-temperature processing system (130-140 degrees Celsius setting) of this embodiment, the wool blended yarn 310 can still maintain its original shape and weight after multiple household washes, without significant shrinkage or deformation.

[0146] It also enhances the color rendering effect. Because the scale layer is blunted, the diffuse reflection of light on the fiber surface is reduced, making the color of wool blended colored yarn 310 more profound and uniform. Combined with the solution dyeing process, the entire fabric presents the understated texture unique to high-end business trousers.

[0147] A method for preparing an outdoor wool trouser fabric includes the following steps:

[0148] Step 1: Weave the fabric according to the six-warp, six-weft mountaineering fabric structure, maintaining the tension difference between the warp and weft directions to form the greige fabric;

[0149] Step 2: Perform neutral cold reactor pretreatment using a 1.5% neutral deslurry and control the pH value to 7-8;

[0150] Step 3: Perform initial low-temperature setting, with the setting temperature controlled at 130°C-140°C;

[0151] Step 4: Perform a shearing process on the fabric surface corresponding to the third functional temperature control layer 300 to form a pile layer with a length of 1-1.5 mm;

[0152] Step 5: Perform secondary shaping and functional finishing by adding C6 waterproofing agent at 130°C-140°C.

[0153] In step one: the fabric is woven according to the six-warp, six-weft mountaineering fabric structure, maintaining the tension difference between the warp and weft directions to form the greige fabric.

[0154] S11: According to the design requirements, the first solution-dyed filament 110 and the first low-temperature spandex filament 120 are loosely twisted to form the warp yarn, the second solution-dyed filament 210 and the second low-temperature spandex filament 220 are loosely twisted to form the first weft yarn, and the wool blended colored yarn 310 that has undergone oxidation and descaling treatment is twisted together with the third low-temperature spandex filament 320 to form the second weft yarn.

[0155] S12: During the weaving process, strictly follow the pattern diagram of the six-warp and six-weft mountaineering fabric structure to ensure that within one weaving cycle, the second weft yarn corresponding to the third functional temperature control layer 300 forms a floating point that spans more than four warp yarns.

[0156] S13: Through the electronic tension compensation system of the warping machine and the loom, the warp tension is set to be 15% to 20% higher than that of conventional fabrics, while the weft tension is kept relatively relaxed. This asymmetrical tension setting in the warp and weft directions allows the fabric to form a preset internal stress between layers at the moment of weaving, laying the physical basis for the subsequent asymmetrical interlacing component 410 to open the breathing channel under tension.

[0157] In step two: a neutral cold reactor pretreatment is performed using a 1.5% neutral deslurry, with the pH value controlled at 7-8.

[0158] S21: Prepare neutral desizing solution by adding 1.5% neutral enzyme desizing agent to the material processing tank and precisely adjusting the pH value to the physiological neutral range of 7-8 using a buffer solution.

[0159] S22: Pass the fabric through the immersion tank in a flat width to ensure that the fabric fully absorbs the desizing liquid, and then perform a small roll-up to make the liquid evenly penetrate into the interlayer gap between the first protective layer 100, the second elastic support layer 200 and the third functional temperature control layer 300.

[0160] S23: Roll up and seal the impregnated fabric, and cold-pile it at an ambient temperature of 30-40 degrees Celsius for 12-18 hours. This step, by simulating the natural degradation process of biological enzymes, thoroughly removes oil and sizing from the fiber surface without damaging the wool protein structure and spandex elasticity, thus avoiding the embrittlement damage to wool fibers caused by strong alkali and high temperature.

[0161] In step three: a low-temperature initial shaping is performed, with the shaping temperature controlled at 130-140 degrees Celsius.

[0162] S31: The wet cloth after cold washing is pre-dried by a continuous flat-width dryer to control the moisture content between 15% and 20% in order to prevent sudden changes in fiber internal stress caused by rapid drying of moisture during the setting process.

[0163] S32: Enter the setting machine oven, strictly limiting the setting temperature to 130-140 degrees Celsius. At this time, the first low-temperature spandex filament 120, the second low-temperature spandex filament 220, and the third low-temperature spandex filament 320 begin to undergo thermal rebound, causing the three-layer structure to undergo initial dimensional shrinkage and density locking.

[0164] S33: Instant cooling via a cold air system at the end of the setting process locks the fabric width and weight within the design range. The optimal temperature of 135 degrees Celsius activates the elastic memory of the low-temperature spandex while ensuring that the natural lipids inside the wool fibers do not undergo thermal denaturation, thus maintaining the fabric's ultimate softness and suppleness.

[0165] In step four: the fabric surface corresponding to the third functional temperature control layer 300 is subjected to a shearing process to form a pile layer with a length of 1-1.5 mm.

[0166] S41: Perform the first napping process, using a light frequency and slow speed mechanical method, the napping rollers perform the initial napping of the wool blended colored yarn 310 on the surface of the third functional temperature control layer 300.

[0167] S42: Perform the second brushing process, by adjusting the deflection angle of the brushing rollers, to brush up the wool fibers that have not been fully combed. This embodiment requires at least two brushing operations to be performed in a cycle, which significantly improves the coverage and fluffiness of the wool fibers through the multi-brushing process.

[0168] S43: The shearing process is performed, using a high-precision flat shearing machine to uniformly cut the gathered pile, precisely controlling the pile height to 1-1.5mm. Through this cyclical combination of multiple grabbing and shearing, the density of the insulation layer formed by the third functional temperature control layer 300 is ensured to be uniform and without any messy feeling, thus giving the fabric excellent warmth and delicate touch.

[0169] In step five: secondary shaping and functional finishing are carried out, and C6 waterproofing agent is added at 130-140 degrees Celsius for treatment.

[0170] S51: A functional finishing liquid containing C6 waterproofing agent is prepared in the front end groove of the setting machine, and a cross-linking catalyst is added to ensure that the waterproofing molecules can be firmly fixed to the fiber surface of the first protective layer 100.

[0171] S52: After the fabric is impregnated with the finishing solution, it enters the oven for secondary setting, with the temperature maintained at 130-140 degrees Celsius. At this time, the active polymer film layer 421 is thermally activated, forming anchor points for the interfacial locking component 420 between the layers, firmly locking the root of the pile of the third functional temperature control layer 300 onto the second elastic support layer 200.

[0172] S53: Perform stress activation adjustment by adjusting the lateral overfeed of the setting machine to allow the fabric to reserve 5% to 8% elastic elongation space during the setting process. This step physically releases some internal stress, giving the asymmetric weave component 410 extremely high sensitivity, so that the fabric can quickly open its breathing channels with only slight stretching during subsequent wear.

[0173] S54: After setting, constant tension winding is performed. Compared with existing technologies, this not only gives the fabric excellent water-repellent properties, but also solves the problem of permanent deformation (bulging) in high-stretch areas such as the knees and hips of wool trousers through precise control of lateral overfeed, ensuring the silhouette stability of the trousers after long-term use.

[0174] The embodiments of the present invention are given for illustrative and descriptive purposes only, and are not intended to be exhaustive or to limit the invention to the forms disclosed. Many modifications and variations will be apparent to those skilled in the art. The embodiments were chosen and described in order to better illustrate the principles and practical application of the invention, and to enable those skilled in the art to understand the invention and to design various embodiments with various modifications suitable for a particular purpose.

Claims

1. An outdoor wool pant shell characterized in that, The application relates to a knitted fabric, which comprises the following components: a first protective layer (100) arranged at the outermost side of the fabric and used for providing wear-resistant protection and an external barrier; a second elastic supporting layer (200) arranged below the first protective layer (100) and interwoven with the first protective layer (100) and used for providing dimensional elasticity and deformation support of the fabric; and a third functional temperature control layer (300) arranged at the innermost side of the fabric and interwoven with the second elastic supporting layer (200) and used for directly contacting the human skin and providing warm-keeping and moisture conducting functions; wherein the first protective layer (100), the second elastic supporting layer (200) and the third functional temperature control layer (300) are spatially coupled through a dynamic stress response structure; the dynamic stress response structure comprises an asymmetric interwoven component (410) and an interface locking component (420); the asymmetric interwoven component (410) sets different interlayer yarn internal stress thresholds, so that, when the fabric is subjected to external tensile load, the fiber bundles of the third functional temperature control layer (300) are guided to occur directional deflection, the dynamic breathing channels distributed between the layers are opened, and the wet and hot air is guided out in a directional mode; the interface locking component (420) is arranged at the joint interface between the third functional temperature control layer (300) and the second elastic supporting layer (200), the micro anchor force is used for limiting the transverse sliding of the interlayer fibers, the structural stability of the fabric in the frequent stretching state is maintained, and the shedding of the pile is inhibited. The first protective layer (100) is formed by air-jacking and twisting of first original liquid color filaments (110) and first low-temperature spandex filaments (120), and the first original liquid color filaments (110) adopt an original liquid coloring process to avoid high-temperature dyeing in the later period. The second elastic supporting layer (200) is formed by air-jacking and twisting of second original liquid color filaments (210) and second low-temperature spandex filaments (220); The yarn twist degree of the first protective layer (100) is greater than that of the second elastic supporting layer (200), so as to form an interlayer stress gradient. The third functional temperature control layer (300) is composed of wool blended colored spun yarn (310) and third low-temperature spandex filaments (320), and the quality count of the wool fibers in the wool blended colored spun yarn (310) is not less than 80. The specific structure of the asymmetric interwoven component (410) is a six-warp-six-weft mountaineering cloth organization; In one organization cycle, at least one floating point of the weft yarn of the third functional temperature control layer (300) across more than four warp yarns is arranged, and the opening end point of the dynamic breathing channel is formed. The interface locking component (420) comprises an active polymer film layer (421) wrapped on the surface of the wool blended colored spun yarn (310); 2. An outdoor wool pant shell fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The active polymer film layer (421) is physically adsorbed or chemically cross-linked with the fiber surface of the second elastic supporting layer (200) under a setting condition.

3. The outdoor wool pant shell fabric of claim 1, wherein: The wool fibers in the wool blended colored spun yarn (310) are subjected to oxidation descaling treatment, so that the scale layer on the fiber surface is partially peeled off or passivated, and a soft finishing agent is attached to the surface of the wool fibers. The application further discloses a manufacturing method of the knitted fabric.

4. The outdoor wool pant shell fabric of claim 1, wherein: ​ 5. The outdoor wool pant shell fabric of claim 1, wherein: ​ ​ 6. The outdoor wool pant shell fabric of claim 1, wherein: ​ ​ 7. An outdoor wool pant shell fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that: ​ 8. A process for the production of an outdoor woollen trouser fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterised in that, ​ Step one: weaving according to the six-meridians and six-latitudes mountain cloth organization, keeping the tension difference of the warp and weft directions, forming the fabric; Step two: neutral cold pile pretreatment, using a neutral desizing solution with a concentration of 1.5%, controlling the PH value to be 7-8; Step three: low-temperature primary setting, controlling the setting temperature to be 130°C-140°C; Step four: carrying out the scratch and shear wool processing on the surface of the fabric corresponding to the third functional temperature control layer (300), forming a pile layer with a length of 1-1.5mm; Step five: secondary setting and functional finishing, adding C6 waterproof agent for processing at 130°C-140°C.

9. A process for the production of an outdoor woollen trouser fabric according to claim 8, characterized in that: In the step five, by adjusting the transverse overfeed amount of the setting machine, the fabric is reserved with elastic elongation space in the setting process, so as to activate the sensing sensitivity of the asymmetric interwoven assembly (410).

10. A process for the preparation of an outdoor woollen trouser fabric as claimed in claim 8, wherein: The scratch and shear wool processing in the step four adopts a multi-scratching and multi-shearing process, specifically: Circulating at least twice of the wool scratching operation and once of the wool shearing operation, so as to ensure the pile density and neatness of the third functional temperature control layer (300).

Images