Cosmetic composition comprising a wax, a non-ionic surfactant of the type (alkyl C14-C24)(poly)glycoside, a hydrocarbon ether oil and water

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one wax, at least one nonionic surfactant of the type (alkyl C14-C24)(poly)glycoside, at least one hydrocarbon oil ether, and water. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for keratin fibers in which such a composition is applied to said fibers, as well as the use of this composition for the care of keratin fibers, particularly hair. The invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for conditioning keratin fibers, particularly hair.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising a wax, a non-ionic surfactant of the type (alkyl C 14 -C 24 (poly)glycoside, a hydrocarbon oil ether and water

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one wax, at least one non-ionic surfactant of the type (alkyl Ci4-C24)(poly)glycoside, at least one hydrocarbon oil ether and water.

[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers in which such a composition is applied to said fibers, as well as the use of this composition for the care of keratin fibers, in particular hair.

[0003] The invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the conditioning of keratin fibers, in particular hair.

[0004] Consumers, regardless of their hair type, and more particularly those with curly or frizzy hair, seek to control the shape of their hair and in particular to avoid the appearance of frizz.

[0005] Humidity is often the cause of frizz. It results from the loss of water from damp hair to its environment. Since ambient air is drier than damp hair, a vapor flow is created from the hair to its environment.

[0006] Although there are many anti-frizz formulas available, they generally do not provide hair with entirely satisfactory and lasting cosmetic properties. In fact, these formulas often give hair an unnatural, stiff, and greasy appearance, as well as unpleasant textures, such as a rough or oily feel. Furthermore, on curly or frizzy hair, these formulas do not always provide good curl definition.

[0007] In addition, there are mechanical and chemical solutions to limit frizz, such as straightening or smoothing treatments. However, these solutions often lead to weakening or even damage to the hair fibers.

[0008] Thus, there is a real need to develop a care composition that allows control of the volume and shape of the hair, in particular to limit the appearance of frizz, and to do so in a lasting way, while providing good cosmetic properties to the keratin fibers, such as a natural appearance, discipline, softness and shine.

[0009] This objective is achieved by the present invention, which relates in particular to a cosmetic composition comprising: - one or more waxes, - one or more non-ionic surfactants (alkyl Ci4-C24)(poly)glycosides, - one or more hydrocarbon oils, ethers, and - water.

[0010] The composition according to the invention provides an anti-frizz effect to the keratin fibers, with a natural, unfrizzy appearance to the hair. This effect is also long-lasting throughout the day.

[0011] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to impart good cosmetic properties to the keratin fibers, particularly in terms of smoothness to the touch and visual appearance, softness, shine, and manageability. In particular, on curly or frizzy hair, it makes it possible to obtain well-defined, bouncy, and defined curls.

[0012] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to obtain improved ease of detangling, as well as a lasting conditioning effect.

[0013] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition as defined above.

[0014] Another object of the present invention relates to the use of the composition as defined above for the conditioning of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0015] Another object of the present invention relates to the use of the composition as defined above to reduce frizz of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0016] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples.

[0017] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated: - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it; - the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and can be substituted for it, and implies that the limits are included; - "keratin fibers" in this application means human keratin fibers, and more specifically hair.

[0018] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), by For example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In this application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0019] The term "fatty substance" refers to an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Fatty substances have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0020] The waxes The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises one or more waxes.

[0021] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C and up to 200°C, and exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0022] The melting temperature of the waxes is preferably from 50°C to 150°C, more particularly from 60°C to 110°C.

[0023] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

[0024] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork or sugarcane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfalfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, absolute flower waxes; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0025] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C2 to C60, such as Microwax HW.

[0026] We can also mention polyethylene waxes marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene or under the reference Performa SW 100 synthetic wax by the company Nucera solutions.

[0027] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8 to C32. Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0028] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol can also be used, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

[0029] As a wax, one can also use an alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate in C2O to C4O (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0030] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; Examples include camauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and microwaxes of polytetrafluoroethylene, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.

[0031] Preferably, the wax or waxes are chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelilla wax, Alfalfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; polyethylene waxes; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0032] Preferably, the wax or waxes are chosen from beeswax, modified beeswax, Camauba wax, Candelilla wax, rice bran wax, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0033] Preferably, the total content of the wax(s) is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0034] Preferably, the total content of the wax(s) chosen from beeswax or modified beeswax, Camauba wax, Candelilla wax, rice bran wax, polyethylene wax and mixtures thereof, less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two different waxes. More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least beeswax and candelilla wax.

[0036] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises beeswax and Candelilla wax in a total content less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 1.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] Non-ionic surfactants (alkyl C14-C24)(poly)glycoside The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants (alkyl Ci4-C24)(poly)glycosides.

[0038] By "alky(poly)glycoside" is meant an alkylpolyglycoside or an alkylmonoglycoside also called alkylglycoside in this application, which can be alkoxylated by one or more alkylene oxide groups preferably at C2 to C4.

[0039] The non-ionic surfactants (alkyl Ci4-C24)(poly)glycosides usable according to the invention are advantageously chosen from compounds of the following general formula: RlO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which: - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 14 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 14 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 24 carbon atoms; - R2 represents an alkylene radical with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - G represents a sugar motif with 5 to 6 carbon atoms, -1 designates a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, - v designates a value from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0040] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactants chosen from the (alkyl C14-C24) (poly)glycosides are compounds of the formula described above in which: - RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 16 to 24 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene radical with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0, - G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0041] The glycosidic bonds between the sugar motifs are generally of type 1-6 or 1-4, preferably of type 1-4.

[0042] Non-ionic surfactants (alkyl Ci4-C24)(poly)glycosides are preferably chosen from (alkyl Ci6-C24)polyglycosides, more preferably from (alkyl Ci6-C24)polyglucosides, more preferably still from cetearyl (poly)glucoside (INCI name: cetearyl glucoside), arachidyl (poly)glucoside (INCI name: arachidyl glucoside) and mixtures thereof.

[0043] Among the commercial products, we can mention the products sold by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names TEGO CARE CG 90 or TEGO CARE CG 90 MB, the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the trade names Montanov® 68, Montanov® 68 MB or Montanov® 202, or the products sold by the company BASF under the name Emulgade® PL 68 / 50.

[0044] Preferably, the total content of the non-ionic surfactant(s) selected from the (alkyl Ci4-C24)(poly)glycosides ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 at 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better from 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] Preferably, the total cetearyl glucoside content is from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better from 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Hydrocarbon oils and ethers The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises one or more hydrocarbon ether oils.

[0047] For the purposes of the invention, "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0048] For the purposes of the invention, the term "hydrocarbon oil" covers a single or a mixture of several hydrocarbon oils.

[0049] The hydrocarbon ether oil can be volatile or non-volatile and preferably is non-volatile.

[0050] Such an ether hydrocarbon oil is an oil of formula RiOR2 in which Ri and R2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C24 alkyl group, the sum of the carbon atoms of Ri and R2 being greater than or equal to 8; preferably a C6-Ci8 alkyl group, and more preferably a C8-Ci2 alkyl group. It may be preferable for Ri and R2 to be identical.

[0051] Examples of linear alkyl groups include a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undodyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group.

[0052] Examples of branched alkyl groups include a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a 1-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl, a 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group, and a 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.

[0053] Examples of cyclic alkyl groups include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.

[0054] Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil or oils chosen from the ethers are chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof.

[0055] More preferably, the hydrocarbon oil ether(s) are chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether and mixtures thereof.

[0056] More preferably still, the hydrocarbon oil ether is dicaprylyl ether.

[0057] Preferably, the total content of the hydrocarbon oil(s) ether is from 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Preferably, the total dicaprylyl ether content ranges from 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] Water The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises water.

[0060] Preferably, the total water content is greater than or equal to 50% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 70% by weight, more preferably from 70 to 95% by weight, better from 70 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0062] Liquid fats The cosmetic composition of the invention may optionally further comprise one or more fatty substances having a melting point of 25°C or lower, preferably 20°C or lower, at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). In other words, these fatty substances are liquid at atmospheric pressure and are not in a solid state.

[0063] These liquid fats are different from hydrocarbon ether oils as described above.

[0064] In this application, this or these fats are also referred to as "liquid fat(s)" or "oil(s)".

[0065] Advantageously, the liquid fats usable in the present invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0066] Preferably, the liquid fats usable in the present invention are non-siliconized.

[0067] The term "non-siliconized fat" means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds and the term "siliconized fat" means a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.

[0068] More particularly, the fat or fats having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C are chosen from among liquid hydrocarbons in C6 to Ci6, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, alkyl or alkylene carbonates, and mixtures thereof.

[0069] It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0070] With regard to liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to C16 range, these may be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

[0071] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petrolatum oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] Perhydrosqualene can be cited as an example of hydrocarbon oils of animal origin.

[0073] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] As regards fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; derivatives of perfluoromorpholine, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the 3M Company.

[0075] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, we may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0077] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0078] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldodecyl laurate, the mixture of caprate and coco caprylate; and mixtures thereof.

[0079] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof shall be used.

[0080] Still within the framework of this variant, one can also use the esters of di or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in C1 to C22 and the esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26.

[0081] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; adipate diisostearyl; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] The composition may also include, as a fatty acid ester, esters and diesters of C6 to C30 fatty acid sugars, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0083] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0084] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the range of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0085] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0086] These esters can be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

[0087] More particularly, mono- and di- esters are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] One can cite as an example the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0089] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0090] With regard to alkylene carbonates, they can in particular be chosen among those of the following formula (1): in which: R' denotes hydrogen atony, a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical; R” represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical; m is equal to 1, 2 or 3.

[0091] Preferably, the radical R' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched CrC4 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched Ci-C2 hydroxyalkyl radical.

[0092] R' ' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-C2 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched CrC2 hydroxyalkyl radical.

[0093] Preferably m equals 1.

[0094] As particularly advantageous examples of alkylene carbonates, we can cite the compounds for which the radical R' represents a hydrogen atom (corresponding to ethylene carbonate), a methyl group (corresponding to propylene carbonate), ethyl (corresponding to 1,2-butylene carbonate), hydroxymethyl (R'= -CH2OH; corresponding to glycerin carbonate).

[0095] Preferably, the alkylene carbonate used is propylene carbonate.

[0096] With regard to alkyl carbonates, they may in particular be chosen from those of the following formula (2): R'-O-CO-OR” (2) in which: R' designates an atom, a linear or branched Ci-C5 alkyl radical, a linear or branched CrC4 hydroxyalkyl radical; R” represents a linear or branched Ci-C5 alkyl radical, a linear or branched CrC4 hydroxyalkyl radical; the sum of the number of carbon atoms in R' and R” ranging from 2 to 6.

[0097] Preferably, the radical R' represents a linear alkyl radical in Ci-C3, a linear hydroxyalkyl radical in CrC2.

[0098] R' ' represents a linear alkyl radical in Ci-C3, a linear hydroxyalkyl radical in Ci-C2.

[0099] In particular, diethyl carbonate and dipropyl carbonate can be cited.

[0100] Preferably, when present, the fat(s) having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, other than hydrocarbon ether oils, are chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid fatty alcohols and their mixtures, and more preferably from isopropyl myristate, oleic alcohol, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, soybean oil and their mixtures.

[0101] Advantageously, when present, the total content of the fat(s) having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C, other than hydrocarbon oils and ethers, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] Solid fats The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more fatty substances having a melting point above 25°C, preferably above or equal to 28°C, more preferably above or equal to 30°C, and below 45°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). In this application, this or these fatty substances are also referred to as "solid fatty substance(s)".

[0103] These solid fats are different from waxes, that is to say that these solid fats have a melting point above 25°C and below 45°C.

[0104] Advantageously, the solid fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0105] The solid fats according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s*.

[0106] Preferably, the solid fats are non-siliconized.

[0107] The fat or fats having a melting point above 25°C and below 45°C are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, C6-Ci8 dialkyl carbonates, butters, ceramides, solid mono-, di- or triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

[0108] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolized.

[0109] The solid fatty acids usable in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0110] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

[0111] Solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0112] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0113] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used can be selected from, alone or in mixtures: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol), cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol), stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol), arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol), behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol), ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol), montanylic alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0114] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl alcohol; preferably, cetostearyl alcohol.

[0115] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

[0116] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated carboxylic acid, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated monoalcohol, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, of Preference is given to 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly to 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0117] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26-

[0118] Examples include behenyl behenate, octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, adipate dioctyl, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, trihydroxystearine (glycerin and hydroxystearic acid triester) and mixtures thereof.

[0119] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0120] In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from myristyle stearate, myristyle palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0121] Di-alkyl carbonates can also be used in which the two alkyl groups, identical or different, are each C6-Ci8 groups, and preferably C8-Ci2 groups, such as dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0122] Butters can also be used.

[0123] For the purposes of this invention, "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fat") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting point above 25°C and less than or equal to 40°C.

[0124] Preferably the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

[0125] We can mention more particularly shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat (tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca or Bassia Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and cocoa butter, sunflower butter.

[0126] Shea butter is an example of a preferred butter.

[0127] Preferably, when present, the fat(s) having a melting point above 25°C and below 45°C, other than waxes, are chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, butters, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyle stearate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, behenyl behenate, trihydroxystearine, shea butter and mixtures thereof.

[0128] Advantageously, when present, the total content of the fat(s) having a melting point above 25°C and below 45°C, other than waxes, ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fats having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C, other than hydrocarbon oils and ethers, and / or one or more fats having a melting point greater than 25°C and less than 45°C, other than waxes.

[0130] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fats having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C, other than hydrocarbon oils and ethers, and one or more fats having a melting point greater than 25°C and less than 45°C, other than waxes.

[0131] Preferably, the total fat content (i.e. the total content of waxes, hydrocarbon oils, ethers, fats having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C and fats having a melting point greater than 25°C and less than 45°C) is from 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0132] Additives The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which we may mention surfactants, such as cationic, anionic, non-ionic surfactants, other than alkylpolyglycoside type surfactants, or amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof, cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestering agents, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickening agents, in particular polymeric thickening agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidant agents, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives, and fillers.Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compound(s) in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s).

[0133] The above additives may generally be present in quantities of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition as defined above. The composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or moist keratinous materials, optionally after washing with shampoo. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to moist keratinous fibers.

[0135] Preferably, the keratin fibers are not rinsed after application of the composition.

[0136] They can then undergo heat and / or mechanical treatment, drying and / or shaping, for example smoothing using a heated iron.

[0137] The invention further relates to the use of a composition as defined above for the conditioning of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair. The composition can be used on damp or dry hair, and preferably in leave-in mode (i.e., the keratin fibers are not rinsed after application of the composition).

[0138] The invention further relates to the use of the composition as defined above to reduce frizz of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0139] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0140] Examples In the examples that follow, all quantities are given, unless otherwise indicated, as a mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1

[0141] a) composition Composition A according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the following table:

[0142] [Tables 1] Composition A Xanthan Gum 0.8 Glycerol 3 Caprylyl glycol 0.5 Benzyl alcohol 1 Shea butter 0.6 Beeswax 2.5 Candelilla wax 2.5 Cetearyl alcohol 2.8 Glyceryl stearate 0.3 Cetearyl glucoside 0.2 Tocopherol 0.1 Fragrance 0.65 Dicaprylyl ether 13.1 Water q.s. 100

[0143] The composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0144] b) protocol The performance of composition A according to the invention was evaluated in comparison to a commercially recommended composition for reducing frizz (John Frieda Extra Strength Frizz-Ease Serum). Strands of Caucasian hair at the level of high frizz (TYPE IV) natural hair has been pre-washed with DOP shampoo. The compositions were then applied to damp hair at a rate of 0.03g of composition per gram of hair. The strands were then left to air dry.

[0145] Five experts evaluated the following cosmetic properties on dry hair: - Anti-frizz effect: visually assessed - the more isolated hairs the strand has, the weaker the effect. - Flexibility: assessed by manipulating the hand to lift the suspended strand; the easier the strand is to lift, the more flexible it is. - Smooth touch: assessed by continuous finger pressure (between thumb and middle finger) along the fiber - the more homogeneous the touch, the stronger the "smooth touch". - Discipline after finger passage: assessment carried out after the smooth touch. The more regular and aesthetic the loop design, the stronger the discipline.

[0146] These parameters are rated between 0 and 5 relative to a reference wick wetted with water and air-dried. The higher the rating, the greater the effect.

[0147] The results are shown in the table below (average of the scores of the 5 experts):

[0148] [Tables2] Composition Comparative A Anti-frizz 2.6 + 0.42 4.1 + 0.22 Suppleness 3 + 0.00 4.1 + 0.65 Smooth touch 2.8 + 0.27 4.1 + 0.22 Discipline 2 + 0.00 4 + 0.00

[0149] Composition A according to the invention provides better cosmetic properties in terms of anti-frizz effect, suppleness, smooth feel and discipline compared to a comparative commercial composition.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: - beeswax and candelilla wax, - one or more non-ionic surfactants (alkyl C14-C24) (poly)glycosides, - one or more hydrocarbon oil ethers, and - water, the total content of the hydrocarbon oil ether(s) ranging from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and the total content of the non-ionic surfactant(s) selected from the (alkyl C14-C24) (poly)glycosides ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the wax or waxes are selected from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petrolatum wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelilla wax, Alfalfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; polyethylene waxes; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof; preferably from among beeswax or modified beeswax, Camauba wax, Candelilla wax, rice bran wax, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the wax(s) is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-ionic surfactants (alkyl Ci4-C24)(poly)glycosides are selected from (alkyl Ci6-C24)polyglycosides, more preferably from (alkyl Ci6- C24)polyglucosides, more preferentially among cetearyl (poly)glucoside, arachidyl (poly)glucoside and their mixtures.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the non-ionic surfactant(s) selected from the (alkyl Ci4-C24)(poly)glycosides ranges from 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon ether oil(s) are selected from oils of formula RiOR2 in which Ri and R2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C24 alkyl group, the sum of the carbon atoms of Ri and R2 being greater than or equal to 8, preferably a C6-Ci8 alkyl group, and more preferably a C8-Ci2 alkyl group.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon oil ether(s) are selected from dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof, preferably from dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether and mixtures thereof, more preferably the hydrocarbon oil ether is dicaprylyl ether.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the hydrocarbon oil ether(s) is from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total water content is greater than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 70% by weight, more preferably from 70 to 95% by weight, more preferably from 70 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-emulsion water.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more fats having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, other than hydrocarbon ether oils, preferably selected from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from isopropyl myristate, oleic alcohol, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, soybean oil and mixtures thereof.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more fats having a melting point above 25°C and below 45°C, other than waxes, preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, butters, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyle stearate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, behenyl behenate, trihydroxy stearin, shea butter and mixtures thereof.

13. A cosmetic treatment process for human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising applying to said keratin fibers a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

14. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair and / or for reducing frizz of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.