Whitening composition suitable for sensitive skin and having skin barrier repairing effect and use thereof

The whitening composition prepared by combining mulberry root extract, astragalus root extract, and spearmint extract and using microwave extraction method solves the whitening and barrier problems of sensitive skin, achieving gentle and effective whitening and barrier repair effects.

WO2024244493A1PCT designated stage expired Publication Date: 2024-12-05N O D TOPIA (GUANGZHOU) BIOTECHNOLOGY CO LTD

Patent Information

Application Number
PCT/CN2024/072515
Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-05-31
Filing Date
2024-01-16
Publication Date
2024-12-05

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing whitening products are highly irritating to sensitive skin and cannot effectively inhibit melanin production or improve the skin barrier, leading to skin sensitivity and redness.

Method used

A specific blend of mulberry root extract, astragalus extract, and spearmint extract was used to prepare mulberry root extract via microwave extraction. Loquat leaf extract, schisandra chinensis extract, and saffron extract were also added to synergistically inhibit melanin production, improve heme levels, and enhance skin barrier function.

Benefits of technology

It achieves a gentle whitening effect on sensitive skin, reduces melanin transfer, improves skin barrier function, reduces redness and inflammation, and enhances skin evenness and antioxidant properties.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a whitening composition suitable for sensitive skin and having a skin barrier repairing effect, and the use thereof, and belongs to the field of daily chemicals. The whitening composition of the present invention comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.001 to 10 parts of a Radix mori albae extract, 0.001 to 10 parts of a Boerhavia diffusa extract, and 0.001 to 10 parts of a Mentha spicata extract. The whitening composition of the present invention is beneficial to inhibiting the generation of melanin, and simultaneously reducing capillary leakage via vascular factors to improve the barrier of sensitive skin, and therefore the whitening composition achieves the effects of more comprehensive and uniform skin whitening. In the present invention, an Eriobotryae folium extract, a Schisandrae sphenantherae fructus extract and a Crocus sativus extract are also added, which are beneficial to promoting the autophagy effect of the whitening composition on melanin, thereby accelerating the generation of lysosomes for melanin metabolism, and which can inhibit the inflammatory response and the overexpression of nerves, so that the effects of improving skin flushing and relieving and repairing sensitive skin are improved.
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Description

A whitening composition suitable for sensitive skin and having the effect of repairing skin barrier and its application Technical Field

[0001] The present invention belongs to the field of daily chemicals, and in particular relates to a whitening composition suitable for sensitive skin and having the effect of repairing the skin barrier, and an application thereof. Background Art

[0002] With economic development, the number of people with sensitive skin in China is increasing. Currently, the prevalence of sensitive skin among Chinese women is as high as 36% to 50%. This figure has been steadily increasing over the past five years, with a particularly significant surge in 2020. Among this group, those with mildly sensitive skin account for 67.7%, representing the core sensitive skin group. This group is more likely to use skincare products to improve their skin condition. Even, fair skin is a form of beauty sought by the Chinese. An ancient Chinese saying, "A white complexion hides a hundred uglinesses," eloquently captures this aspiration. People with sensitive skin are no exception. However, due to their low sensitivity threshold, sensitive skin requires gentle and effective products.

[0003] However, in the pursuit of fair and even skin, many people encounter various problems. For example, through the form of exfoliation, the skin can be quickly renewed to achieve even skin. This method is achieved by accelerating the metabolism of keratin, making the metabolism rate of keratin faster than the metabolism and transfer of melanin to the stratum corneum. It can quickly and evenly cleanse the skin, but it will thin the stratum corneum. Long-term use will cause the skin barrier to be damaged and become sensitive. This method is not suitable for sensitive skin and is more likely to turn originally healthy skin into sensitive skin. In order to pursue rapid whitening, products on the market will use some powerful melanin inhibitors, such as 377 (phenylethyl resorcinol), kojic acid, and VC. These products are more irritating and may be used for healthy and tough skin, but they are prone to cause stinging, redness, etc. for sensitive skin.

[0004] Furthermore, most existing technologies focus on melanin, ignoring hemoglobin, or even simply inhibiting melanin production. Sensitive skin, due to a damaged barrier, is prone to redness, resulting in an uneven appearance. Simply inhibiting melanin production alone cannot completely solve the whitening problem for sensitive skin.

[0005] Therefore, it is very necessary to develop a whitening composition that is mild, non-irritating, highly safe, and suitable for sensitive skin.

[0006] Summary of the Invention

[0007] The purpose of the present invention is to overcome the shortcomings of the prior art and provide a whitening composition that is mild, non-irritating, highly safe, suitable for sensitive skin, and has the effect of repairing the skin barrier.

[0008] In order to achieve the above object, the technical solution adopted by the present invention is:

[0009] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a whitening composition suitable for sensitive skin and having the effect of repairing the skin barrier, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 0.001 to 10 parts of mulberry root extract, 0.001 to 10 parts of yellow safflower extract, and 0.001 to 10 parts of spearmint extract.

[0010] The inventors of the present invention have found that the present invention uses mulberry root extract, yellow wormwood extract and spearmint extract to be compounded in a specific ratio. Compared with the single use of mulberry root extract or yellow wormwood extract, the compounding of the above three functional ingredients of the present invention can synergize and enhance the effect, which is beneficial to inhibiting the formation of melanin. Mulberry root extract can effectively inhibit external stimulation signals, thereby reducing the formation of melanin and inhibiting the related expression of melanin formation. After adding yellow wormwood extract, the dendrites of melanin transfer can be reduced, thereby slowing down the transfer of melanin from the basal layer to the stratum corneum. Moreover, the raw materials are all derived from natural plant extracts, which improves the safety of the whitening composition. At the same time, the present invention is beneficial to acting on hemoglobin by adding spearmint extract, which can strengthen capillaries, thereby achieving the effect of improving hemoglobin. It can also reduce capillary exudation through vascular factors to promote barrier improvement of sensitive skin, thereby making the whitening composition achieve a more comprehensive and even whitening effect on the skin.

[0011] As a preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, it comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1 to 8 parts of mulberry root extract, 0.1 to 5 parts of yellow safflower extract, and 0.1 to 5 parts of spearmint extract.

[0012] The inventors of the present invention have found that the mulberry root extract, yellow safflower extract and spearmint extract of the present invention, within the above-mentioned range, are more conducive to inhibiting the expression of proteins of various genes that regulate the production of melanin, and significantly improve the inhibitory effect on tyrosinase (TYR), DHICA oxidase (TRP-1), dopachrome isomerase (TRP-2), MITF gene, MC1R gene and gp100 protein, thereby making the whitening composition have better whitening performance, while also improving the inflammatory response caused by skin redness, and further improving the soothing and repairing performance on sensitive skin.

[0013] As a more preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, it comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1 to 5 parts of mulberry root extract, 0.1 to 3 parts of yellow safflower extract, and 0.1 to 1 part of spearmint extract.

[0014] The inventors of the present invention have found that when the mulberry root extract, the yellow sedge extract and the spearmint extract of the present invention are within the above ranges, the uniform skin tone and whitening performance of the whitening composition can be optimized.

[0015] As a preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, the whitening composition further comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.001 to 10 parts of loquat leaf extract, 0.001 to 10 parts of Schisandra chinensis extract, and 0.001 to 10 parts of saffron extract.

[0016] The inventors of the present invention have discovered that by adding specific amounts of loquat leaf extract, Schisandra chinensis extract and saffron extract, and compounding them with mulberry root extract, yellow safflower extract and spearmint extract, the present invention can further promote the autophagy effect of the whitening composition on melanin, thereby accelerating the production of lysosomes for melanin metabolism, and at the same time further inhibiting inflammatory reactions and inhibiting excessive nerve expression, thereby achieving the effect of better improving skin redness and soothing and repairing sensitive skin.

[0017] As a preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, the weight portion of the loquat leaf extract is 0.1 to 1 part, the weight portion of the Schisandra chinensis extract is 0.1 to 1 part, and the weight portion of the saffron extract is 0.1 to 3 parts.

[0018] The inventors of the present invention have found that the loquat leaf extract, Schisandra chinensis extract, and Saffron crocus extract of the present invention, within the above-mentioned range, are more conducive to promoting the autophagy of the whitening composition on melanin, which not only enhances the metabolic effect of melanin, but also improves the overall condition of the skin, thereby making the skin tone more even and the whitening effect better.

[0019] As a preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, the weight portion of the loquat leaf extract is 0.3 to 3 parts, the weight portion of the Schisandra chinensis extract is 0.01 to 0.5 parts, and the weight portion of the saffron extract is 0.5 to 3 parts.

[0020] The inventor unexpectedly discovered that the loquat leaf extract, schisandra chinensis extract, and saffron extract of the present invention are within the above range. Compared with the whitening performance of the whitening composition, they are more conducive to improving the effect of the whitening composition in soothing and repairing sensitive skin. By adding more loquat leaf extract and saffron extract, the amount of schisandra chinensis extract is reduced, which is conducive to improving the antioxidant properties of the whitening composition, reducing free radicals caused by external light, pollution, skin damage, etc., and at the same time, it can also reduce discomfort reactions such as skin stinging, achieving a better analgesic effect. In addition, the components of the whitening composition of the present invention are compounded according to the above ratio, and by enhancing the inhibitory effect of multiple inflammatory factors, the soothing discomfort of sensitive skin is improved, thereby enhancing skin resistance, making the whitening composition more effective in soothing and repairing sensitive skin.

[0021] As a more preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, the weight portion of the loquat leaf extract is 0.3-1 parts, the weight portion of the Schisandra chinensis extract is 0.1-0.5 parts, and the weight portion of the saffron extract is 0.5-3 parts.

[0022] The inventors of the present invention have discovered that when the components of the whitening composition of the present invention are within the above-mentioned ratio range, the synergistic enhancement between the components can not only enable the whitening composition to better inhibit melanin and hemoglobin, thereby achieving the best effect of evenly whitening the skin, but also can more effectively improve the barrier repair effect of sensitive skin, thereby optimizing the repair performance of sensitive skin and barrier-damaged skin.

[0023] As a preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, the preparation method of the mulberry root extract is microwave extraction or vacuum distillation extraction.

[0024] As a more preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, the preparation method of the mulberry root extract is microwave extraction.

[0025] The inventors of the present invention have found that the mulberry root extract prepared by the microwave extraction method of the present invention has a higher extraction efficiency than the traditional alcohol extraction or reflux method, and the content of functional ingredients in the product is higher. After being compounded with the yellow mulberry root extract and the spearmint extract, the whitening composition can have better whitening performance.

[0026] As a preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, the preparation method of the mulberry root extract comprises the following steps: grinding the mulberry root to obtain mulberry root powder, adding an extraction solvent, mixing uniformly, performing microwave extraction, and centrifuging to obtain a supernatant, wherein the supernatant is the mulberry root extract;

[0027] The extraction solvent includes extraction solvent A and extraction solvent B; the extraction solvent A is a nonionic surfactant, and the extraction solvent B is water.

[0028] The present invention prepares mulberry root extract by microwave extraction, which improves extraction efficiency compared to mulberry root extracts extracted by heating, reflux, and vacuum distillation. High yields can be achieved in a shorter time and at low temperatures and with high efficiency. Furthermore, the present invention also adds a nonionic surfactant and extracts the mulberry root extract with water. Compared to other types of surfactants and ethanol solvents, the nonionic surfactant of the present invention has a higher extraction efficiency for polyphenol active ingredients such as resveratrol, oxidized resveratrol, and morin in the mulberry root, resulting in a product containing more polyphenol active ingredients, thereby facilitating better whitening performance of the whitening composition prepared from the mulberry root extract.

[0029] As a preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, the HLB value of the extraction solvent A is 12-15.

[0030] The inventors of the present invention conducted extensive experimental research on the HLB value of extraction solvent A and found that the use of the nonionic surfactant with the aforementioned specific HLB value of the present invention, due to its liquid state at room temperature, eliminates the need for heating during the preparation of mulberry root extract. This not only simplifies the preparation process but also avoids the deterioration of polyphenol components during heating, resulting in a product containing more active ingredients. Furthermore, the use of the nonionic surfactant with the aforementioned HLB value of the present invention improves the solubility of polyphenols, the active ingredients in mulberry roots, thereby further increasing the content of the active ingredients in the product, resulting in the prepared mulberry root extract having enhanced whitening properties.

[0031] As a preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, the mass ratio of the extraction solvent A, mulberry root powder and extraction solvent B is extraction solvent A: mulberry root powder: extraction solvent B = (0.05-0.3): 1:30.

[0032] The inventors of the present invention have found that the extraction solvent A, mulberry root powder and extraction solvent B described in the present invention, within the above-mentioned mass ratio range, can further increase the content of polyphenol active ingredients in the mulberry root extract, which is beneficial to the application of the mulberry root extract in the whitening composition.

[0033] As a more preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, the mass ratio of the extraction solvent A, mulberry root powder and extraction solvent B is extraction solvent A: mulberry root powder: extraction solvent B = (0.05-0.1): 1:30.

[0034] The inventors of the present invention have found that when the nonionic surfactant, mulberry root powder and water of the present invention are within the above-mentioned mass ratio range, the polyphenol active ingredients of the mulberry root extract can be maximized and the extraction efficiency can be higher.

[0035] As a preferred embodiment of the whitening composition of the present invention, the power of the microwave extraction is 250 to 500 W, and the time of the microwave extraction is 10 to 30 minutes.

[0036] The inventors of the present invention conducted a large number of experimental studies on the power and time of microwave extraction and found that the use of microwave extraction power and time within the above range of the present invention is conducive to improving the extraction efficiency of mulberry root extract, and can prepare mulberry root extract more efficiently in a shorter time.

[0037] In a second aspect, the present invention provides use of the above-mentioned whitening composition in the preparation of cosmetics.

[0038] In a third aspect, the present invention further provides a cosmetic comprising the above-mentioned whitening composition; the mass percentage of the whitening composition in the cosmetic is 1 to 20%.

[0039] The inventors of the present invention have found that cosmetics prepared using the whitening composition of the present invention, while controlling the whitening composition within the above-mentioned mass percentage range, can have better performance in reducing melanin and whitening skin tone.

[0040] As a preferred embodiment of the cosmetic of the present invention, the cosmetic is an essence; the essence further comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 1 to 10% of a heat preservation agent and 0.1 to 1% of a thickener.

[0041] As a preferred embodiment of the cosmetic of the present invention, it includes the following (I) and / or (II):

[0042] (I) the heat-preserving agent is selected from at least one of glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, hexylene glycol, trehalose, sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, betaine, and ethylhexylglycerin;

[0043] (II) The thickener is selected from at least one of xanthan gum, carbomer, maltodextrin, sodium polyacrylate, and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer.

[0044] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0045] (1) The present invention uses mulberry root extract, yellow safflower extract and spearmint extract in a specific ratio for compounding, which is beneficial to inhibiting the production of melanin. The mulberry root extract can effectively inhibit external stimulation signals, thereby reducing the production of melanin and inhibiting the related expression of melanin production. After adding yellow safflower extract, it can reduce the dendrites of melanin transfer, thereby slowing down the transfer of melanin from the basal layer to the stratum corneum; at the same time, the present invention is beneficial to act on hemoglobin by adding spearmint extract, thereby improving hemoglobin by strengthening capillaries, and reducing capillary exudation by vascular factors to promote the improvement of the barrier of sensitive skin, so that the whitening composition can achieve a more comprehensive and even whitening effect on the skin;

[0046] (2) The mulberry root extract prepared by the microwave extraction method of the present invention has a higher extraction efficiency than the traditional alcohol extraction or reflux method, and the content of functional components in the product is higher. After being compounded with the yellow mulberry root extract and the spearmint extract, the whitening composition can have better whitening performance;

[0047] (3) The present invention further promotes the autophagy of melanin by adding a specific amount of loquat leaf extract, Schisandra chinensis extract and saffron extract, and compounding them with mulberry root extract, yellow safflower extract and spearmint extract, thereby accelerating the generation of lysosomes for melanin metabolism, and further inhibiting inflammatory reactions and excessive nerve expression, thereby achieving the effect of better improving skin redness and soothing and repairing sensitive skin. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0048] FIG1 is a comparative diagram of the soothing performance test of the whitening composition of the present invention;

[0049] FIG2 is a comparison of the faces of volunteers before and after using the essence of Example 35 of the present invention; wherein (a) is before use, and (b) is after use;

[0050] FIG3 is a comparison of the faces of volunteers before and after using the essence of Example 35 of the present invention; wherein (a) is before use, and (b) is after use. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0051] The technical solutions of the present invention are further described below in conjunction with the embodiments. Obviously, the embodiments described are only some embodiments of the present invention, rather than all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by ordinary technicians in this field without making creative work are within the scope of protection of the present invention. The methods or operations used in the embodiments, unless otherwise specified, are conventional methods or routine operations in the art.

[0052] Examples 1 to 21 and Comparative Examples 1 to 19

[0053] Examples 1 to 21 and Comparative Examples 1 to 19 are whitening compositions of the present invention. The components and weight parts of the whitening compositions of Examples 1 to 21 and Comparative Examples 1 to 19 are shown in Tables 1 and 2 below, with the total weight parts being 100 parts each and the balance being water.

[0054] The preparation method of the whitening composition of Examples 1 to 21 and Comparative Examples 1 to 19 comprises the following steps: weighing the raw materials in proportion, stirring until the mixture is uniform, and obtaining the whitening composition.

[0055] The preparation methods of the mulberry root extracts of Examples 1 to 21 and Comparative Examples 1 to 19 comprise the following steps:

[0056] The mulberry root is ground to obtain mulberry root powder, a nonionic surfactant and water are added in proportion, the mixture is evenly mixed, microwave extraction is performed at 450W for 20 minutes, and centrifugation is performed to obtain the mulberry root extract.

[0057] In the preparation methods of mulberry root extracts of Examples 1 to 21 and Comparative Examples 1 to 19: the nonionic surfactants are polyglycerol-10 oleate and polyglycerol-6 laurate, and the mass ratio of polyglycerol-10 oleate and polyglycerol-6 laurate is 2:1; the mass ratio of nonionic surfactant, mulberry root powder and water is nonionic surfactant: mulberry root powder: water = 0.08:1:30.

[0058] Table 1

[0059] Table 2

[0060] Effect Example 1

[0061] In order to explore the performance of the whitening composition of the present invention, the whitening compositions of Examples 1 to 21 and Comparative Examples 1 to 19 were subjected to a soothing performance test.

[0062] The soothing performance test of the present invention adopts the zebrafish embryo skin barrier permeability test, and the specific test method is as follows:

[0063] Experimental principle: It is intended to construct a zebrafish embryo skin barrier damage model, use fluorescent dyes to mark the skin permeability, and evaluate the activity of the test sample in inhibiting skin permeability by testing the red fluorescence area of ​​zebrafish skin, thereby reflecting the skin barrier repair efficacy of the test sample.

[0064] Blank substrate group: 24 fish embryos were randomly selected and transferred to 3 cm culture dishes. 5 mL of fish embryo culture medium was added to each well, and 5 mL of gentian violet was added to each well. The dishes were then placed in a constant temperature shaker at 28 ± 1 °C and cultured for 20 min.

[0065] Positive control group: 24 fish embryos were randomly selected and transferred to 3 cm culture dishes. 5 mL of ceramide solution was added and the dishes were cultured in a 28 ± 1 °C constant temperature shaker for 4 h. The dishes were washed twice with fish embryo culture medium. 5 mL of a mixed solution of gentian violet and lactic acid (LA) was added to each well and the dishes were cultured in a 28 ± 1 °C constant temperature shaker for 20 min.

[0066] Model control group: 24 fish embryos were randomly selected and transferred to 3 cm culture dishes. 5 mL of fish embryo culture medium was added and the dishes were cultured in a 28 ± 1 °C constant temperature shaker for 4 h. The dishes were washed twice with fish embryo culture medium. 5 mL of a mixed solution of gentian violet and lactic acid (LA) was added to each well and the dishes were cultured in a 28 ± 1 °C constant temperature shaker for 20 min.

[0067] Test group: 24 fish embryos were randomly selected from each test group and transferred to a 24-well plate. 5 mL of the test solution was added and the plates were cultured in a 28±1°C constant temperature shaker for 4 h. The plates were then washed twice with fish embryo culture medium. 5 mL of a mixed solution of gentian violet and lactic acid (LA) was added to each well and the plates were cultured in a 28±1°C constant temperature shaker for 20 min.

[0068] Test method: Place the fish embryos sideways and photograph them under a fluorescent stereomicroscope using uniform photography parameters. Open the photos with the analysis software Image-J, mark the caudal fin area of ​​each fish embryo, then select "Analyze" in the "Measurement" column and select "Area" in the test results as the fluorescent area.

[0069] The whitening composition samples of Examples 1 to 21 of the present invention and Comparative Examples 1 to 19 were respectively used as test groups and tested using the above method.

[0070] The calculation method of skin barrier permeation inhibition rate is: skin barrier permeation inhibition rate = (MT) / M×100%;

[0071] Wherein, T is the average value of the tail fin fluorescence area "area" of the fish embryos in the test group; M is the average value of the tail fin fluorescence area "area" of the fish embryos in the model control group; a two-tailed T test was performed on the average values ​​of the tail fin fluorescence area "area" of the fish embryos in the test group and the average values ​​of the tail fin fluorescence area "area" of the fish embryos in the model control group to obtain the p value.

[0072] The test results are shown in Table 3 below.

[0073] Table 3

[0074] As shown in Table 3, the whitening compositions of Examples 1-21 of the present invention exhibited high skin barrier permeation inhibition rates, demonstrating their suitability for sensitive skin. The whitening compositions of Examples 11-12 achieved skin barrier permeation inhibition rates of 60% and 63%, respectively, demonstrating their excellent soothing and repairing properties for damaged skin. Furthermore, compared to Examples 17-18, the whitening compositions prepared using the formulations of Examples 15-16 of the present invention exhibited even higher skin barrier permeation inhibition rates and superior soothing and repairing properties.

[0075] By comparing Example 1 with Comparative Examples 11 to 13, and Example 11 with Comparative Examples 1 to 6, it can be seen that when the mulberry root extract, the scutellaria baicalensis extract and the spearmint extract are compounded in a specific ratio, the whitening compositions of Example 1 and Example 11 have higher skin barrier permeability inhibition rates than those obtained by using only one or two of them, indicating that the compounding of the mulberry root extract, the scutellaria baicalensis extract and the spearmint extract has a certain synergistic effect.

[0076] Comparing Example 11 with Comparative Example 7, it can be seen that the skin barrier permeability inhibition rate of the whitening composition of Comparative Example 7 is low because it does not contain mulberry root extract, yellow safflower extract and spearmint extract, and has almost no soothing and repairing performance on sensitive skin and damaged skin.

[0077] By comparing Example 11 with Comparative Examples 8 to 10, it can be seen that on the basic formula of mulberry root extract, yellow safflower extract and spearmint extract, only a single component of loquat leaf extract, Schisandra chinensis extract or saffron extract is added for compounding. Since the components of the whitening compositions of Comparative Examples 8 to 10 are too single, the components are merely a superposition of functions, resulting in an insignificant increase in their skin barrier inhibition rate.

[0078] Comparing Example 11 with Comparative Examples 14 to 16, it can be seen that the whitening compositions of Comparative Examples 14 to 16 using loquat leaf extract, Schisandra chinensis extract, and Crocus sativus extract alone have poor soothing properties due to the single components.

[0079] By comparing Example 11 with Comparative Examples 18 to 19, it can be seen that the amount of each component in the whitening composition is relatively large. Due to the high content of the functional ingredients, the skin barrier inhibition rate of the whitening composition of Comparative Example 18 is negative, indicating that it not only fails to achieve soothing and repairing performance, but also damages the skin barrier; when the amount of each component is relatively small, the skin barrier inhibition rate of the whitening composition of Comparative Example 19 is 0, indicating that it has no soothing and repairing performance.

[0080] Figure 1 is a comparative chart showing the soothing performance of the whitening compositions of the present invention. As can be seen from Figure 1, the whitening composition of Example 11 exhibited the smallest fluorescent area in the caudal fin of fish embryos, indicating superior soothing and repairing properties. In contrast, the caudal fins of fish embryos treated with either mulberry root extract, scutellaria baicalensis extract, spearmint extract, or loquat leaf extract alone exhibited varying degrees of fluorescent area, indicating poor soothing properties.

[0081] Effect Example 2

[0082] In order to further verify the whitening performance of the whitening composition of the present invention, the whitening performance tests were performed on the whitening compositions of Examples 1 to 21 and Comparative Examples 1 to 19.

[0083] The whitening performance testing method of the present invention is to verify the inhibitory effect of the whitening composition on melanin through an in vitro tyrosinase inhibition test. The testing method refers to T / SHRH 015-2018 "Cosmetics-Tyrosinase Activity Inhibition Test Method".

[0084] The specific test methods are as follows:

[0085] (1) Positive control: Dilute with PBS buffer to a series of concentrations of 1 mg / mL, 0.2 mg / mL, 0.04 mg / mL, and 0.008 mg / mL to verify the test system;

[0086] (2) Test substance treatment: The test sample was diluted with PBS buffer to multiple concentrations of 1 mg / mL, 0.2 mg / mL, 0.04 mg / mL, and 0.008 mg / mL respectively;

[0087] (3) Prepare A, B, C, and D test tubes for each test sample and each tested concentration according to the following requirements, and prepare a blank control tube. After preparation, add 0.5 mL of L-DOPA solution (wherein the mass percentage of L-DOPA is 5%) to each tube. Incubate the test tubes and the blank control tube at 37°C for 30 min, and measure the absorbance at 475 nm. Repeat the experiment for each sample three times.

[0088] The solution requirements for test tubes A, B, C, and D are as follows: Tube A: 3 mL PBS buffer and 0.5 mL tyrosinase; Tube B: 3.5 mL PBS buffer; Tube C: 1 mL sample solution, 2 mL PBS buffer, and 0.5 mL tyrosinase; Tube D: 1 mL sample solution and 2.5 mL PBS buffer;

[0089] Zero adjustment: PBS solution;

[0090] (3) Calculate the tyrosinase inhibition rate of the test sample according to the formula. The calculation formula for the tyrosinase inhibition rate is:

[0091] Among them, A is the absorbance value of tube A, B is the absorbance value of tube B, C is the absorbance value of tube C, and D is the absorbance value of tube D;

[0092] (4) Draw the concentration-response relationship curve between the test sample concentration and the tyrosinase inhibition rate, and calculate the IC of each test sample using the linear fitting formula. 50 Value (IC 50 The value is the test concentration of the sample when the tyrosinase inhibition rate reaches 50%), IC 50 The smaller the value, the stronger the inhibitory ability to tyrosinase.

[0093] The test results are shown in Table 4 below.

[0094] Table 4

[0095] “ / ” indicates that the tyrosinase inhibition rate is less than 50% and the IC cannot be calculated. 50 .

[0096] As can be seen from Table 4, the whitening compositions of Examples 1 to 21 of the present invention have lower IC 50 , indicating that the whitening composition of the present invention has a high tyrosinase inhibition rate and good whitening performance. 50 Compared with Examples 15 to 16, the whitening compositions prepared using the formulations of Examples 17 to 18 of the present invention have higher tyrosinase inhibition performance and better whitening performance.

[0097] By comparing Example 1 with Comparative Examples 11 to 13, and Example 11 with Comparative Examples 1 to 6, it can be seen that when the mulberry root extract, the scutellaria baicalensis extract and the spearmint extract are compounded in a specific ratio, the whitening compositions of Example 1 and Example 11 have higher tyrosinase inhibition rates than those obtained by using only one or two of them, indicating that the compounding of the mulberry root extract, the scutellaria baicalensis extract and the spearmint extract has a certain synergistic effect, thereby effectively improving the whitening performance of the whitening composition.

[0098] Comparing Example 11 with Comparative Example 7, it can be seen that the whitening composition of Comparative Example 7 does not contain mulberry root extract, yellow safflower extract and spearmint extract, and the tyrosinase inhibition rate is lower than 50%, so the whitening performance is poor.

[0099] By comparing Example 11 with Comparative Examples 8 to 10, it can be seen that on the basic formula of mulberry root extract, yellow safflower extract and spearmint extract, only a single component of loquat leaf extract, Schisandra chinensis extract or saffron extract is added for compounding. Since the components in the whitening compositions of Comparative Examples 8 to 10 are too single, the components are merely a superposition of functions, and the whitening performance improvement effect is poor.

[0100] Comparing Example 11 with Comparative Examples 14 to 16, it can be seen that the compositions using loquat leaf extract, Schisandra chinensis extract, and Crocus sativus extract alone have too few components, and the tyrosinase inhibition rate of the whitening compositions of Comparative Examples 14 to 16 is less than 50%, indicating that their whitening performance is poor.

[0101] By comparing Example 11 with Comparative Examples 18 to 19, it can be seen that although the whitening composition has a certain tyrosinase inhibition rate, due to the large amount of each component used, the components of the whitening composition cannot achieve good synergistic enhancement, thereby reducing its whitening performance; when the amount of each component used is small, the tyrosinase inhibition rate of the whitening composition of Comparative Example 19 is less than 50%, indicating that its whitening performance is poor.

[0102] Effect Example 3

[0103] To further explore the impact of the preparation method on the performance of mulberry root extract, the present invention conducted the following research on the preparation method of mulberry root extract. Among them, A-1 to A-18 are mulberry root extracts prepared by microwave extraction, and the specific preparation process parameters are shown in Table 5 below; A-19 to A-20 are mulberry root extracts prepared by vacuum distillation extraction.

[0104] The preparation method of the mulberry root extracts of A-1 to A-18 comprises the following steps: grinding the mulberry root to obtain mulberry root powder, adding an extraction solvent, mixing uniformly, performing microwave extraction, centrifuging, and obtaining the supernatant as the mulberry root extract; wherein the extraction solvents are extraction solvent A and extraction solvent B, and extraction solvent B is water.

[0105] The preparation method of the mulberry root extract of A-19 includes the following steps: grinding the mulberry root to obtain mulberry root powder, taking 1g of dried mulberry root powder, adding 100g of ethanol solution (the volume fraction of ethanol in the ethanol solution is 96%), soaking for 2 days, refluxing for 2h, filtering, and distilling under reduced pressure to obtain the mulberry root extract.

[0106] The preparation method of A-20 mulberry root extract includes the following steps: grinding mulberry root to obtain mulberry root powder, taking 1g of dried mulberry root powder, adding 0.08g of polyglycerol-10 oleate and 30g of water, soaking for 2 days, refluxing for 2h, filtering, and distilling under reduced pressure to obtain mulberry root extract.

[0107] Table 5

[0108] The mulberry root extracts prepared from A-1 to A-20 were tested for total phenol content. The specific testing method is as follows:

[0109] (1) Prepare a standard curve using gallic acid: 0.2 mL, 0.4 mL, 0.6 mL, 0.8 mL, and 1 mL of gallic acid solution (the concentration of gallic acid in the gallic acid solution is 0.05 g / mL) were measured, 0.5 mL of Folin-phenol reagent was added to each of the solutions, and the mixture was reacted in a constant temperature water bath at 25°C for 1 h. The absorbance at 765 nm was measured to obtain a standard curve.

[0110] (2) Sample testing: 1 mL of the sample to be tested was added with 0.5 mL of Folin phenol reagent, thoroughly shaken and allowed to stand for 3 to 4 min, 0.5 mL of sodium carbonate solution (the mass percentage of sodium carbonate in the sodium carbonate solution is 10%) was added, and the volume was made up to 10 mL with distilled water. The mixture was reacted in a constant temperature water bath at 25° C. for 1 h, and the absorbance at 765 nm was measured. The total phenol mass at this absorbance was obtained according to the standard curve of step (1);

[0111] The calculation formula for the total phenol content in mulberry root extract is: total phenol content = total phenol mass / mass of mulberry root powder.

[0112] The test results are shown in Table 6 below.

[0113] Table 6

[0114] As can be seen from Table 6, by comparing A-1 to A-7, the extraction solvent A, mulberry root powder and extraction solvent B, within the mass ratio range of the present invention, can increase the content of polyphenol active ingredients in the prepared mulberry root extract. Among them, the total phenol content in the mulberry root extract prepared by process A-3 is as high as 12.12 mg / g.

[0115] Comparison of A-1, A-8, and A-11 reveals that using a nonionic surfactant with an HLB value of 12 to 15 as extraction solvent A improves the solubility of polyphenols, the active ingredient in mulberry roots. This allows the total phenol content of mulberry root extracts prepared with A-1 and A-8 to exceed 10 mg / g. However, using other extraction solvents with lower or higher HLB values ​​results in lower total phenol content in mulberry root extracts prepared through microwave extraction due to decreased solubility of the active polyphenols. Furthermore, when microwave extraction with ethanol was performed, the total phenol content in the product prepared with A-11 was virtually undetectable.

[0116] By comparing A-1 and A-12 to A-18, it can be seen that the total phenol content of the mulberry root extract prepared within the power and time range of the microwave extraction described in the present invention can reach more than 5 mg / g, among which the total phenol content of the mulberry root extract prepared by the process of A-17 can reach up to 13.25 mg / g.

[0117] Comparing A-1 with A-19 to A-20, it can be seen that the mulberry root extracts prepared by the reduced pressure distillation method using ethanol solution or an aqueous solution of a non-ionic surfactant have lower total phenol content in the mulberry root extracts prepared by A-19 and A-20, indicating that the active ingredients in the mulberry root extracts are lower, which reduces their performance and is not conducive to the subsequent application of the mulberry root extracts in whitening compositions.

[0118] Example 22

[0119] Example 22 is an example of a cosmetic of the present invention, which is an essence. The essence of Example 22 comprises the following components by weight (total amount 100%): 6% whitening composition, 5% butylene glycol, 4% 1,3-propylene glycol, 1% bis-PEG-15 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, 2% caprylic / capric triglyceride, 0.5% betaine, 0.1% xanthan gum, 0.3% sodium polyacrylate, 0.5% hexylene glycol, and the balance water.

[0120] The preparation method of the essence of this embodiment comprises the following steps:

[0121] S1. Mix water, propylene glycol, bis-PEG-15 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, betaine, xanthan gum, and sodium polyacrylate in appropriate proportions, stir until completely dissolved, and heat to 80° C. to obtain mixture A.

[0122] S4, heating and dissolving hexylene glycol and butanediol, adding the mixture to the mixed material in step S1, and stirring evenly to obtain mixed material B;

[0123] S5. Add the whitening composition to the mixed material B in step S4, and stir evenly to obtain the essence.

[0124] Effect Example 4

[0125] In order to verify the safety performance of the cosmetics of the present invention, the cosmetics of Example 22 were subjected to a safety performance test.

[0126] The test method is as follows: According to the Cosmetic Safety Technical Specification, a whitening serum safety test was conducted using human patches. Thirty-three volunteers applied the patches containing the serum for 24 hours, then removed them and observed for any erythema that developed.

[0127] The test results are shown in Table 7 below.

[0128] Table 7

[0129] As can be seen from Table 7, the cosmetics prepared from the whitening composition of the present invention have good safety performance.

[0130] Effect Example 5

[0131] In order to verify the whitening performance of the cosmetics of the present invention, the cosmetics of Example 22 were subjected to a whitening clinical performance test.

[0132] The test method is as follows: 10 volunteers with skin ITA° values ​​of 21° to 41° and uneven facial skin tone were selected. They used whitening essence every morning and evening for 56 days. On the 0th, 14th, 28th, and 56th days of use, the volunteers' faces were photographed using VISIA. The volunteers' ITA° values, skin color uniformity, L value, A value, and B value were analyzed using IPP. The melanin content was tested using a probe. The data on day 0 was recorded as T D0 , the data on the 14th day is recorded as T D14 , the data on the 28th day is recorded as T D28 , the data on the 56th day is recorded as T D56 .

[0133] Calculation method: The calculation method of D14-D0 improvement rate is: (T D14-T D0 ) / T D0 ; The calculation method of D28-D0 improvement rate is: (T D28 -T D0 ) / T D0 The calculation method of D56-D0 improvement rate is: (T D56 -T D0 ) / T D0 ; where T D0 、T D14 、T D28 and T D56 The data obtained from the test are ITA° value and melanin value.

[0134] The test results are shown in Table 8 and Figures 2-3 below.

[0135] Table 8

[0136] As can be seen from Table 8, the essence of Example 22 of the present invention has good comprehensive skin color and whitening effects on the 14th, 28th and 56th days after use, and can effectively reduce the melanin value and the area of ​​​​pigmentation, and greatly improve the uniformity of skin color.

[0137] Figures 2 and 3 are facial comparison pictures of volunteers before and after using the essence of Example 22 of the present invention. It can be clearly seen from the figures that after using the essence of the present invention, the facial skin color of the volunteers is more even and the spots are significantly reduced.

[0138] Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used to illustrate the technical solution of the present invention and are not intended to limit the scope of protection of the present invention. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that the technical solution of the present invention may be modified or replaced by equivalents without departing from the essence and scope of the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims

1. A whitening composition suitable for sensitive skin and having the effect of repairing skin barrier, It is characterized in that The invention comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.001 to 10 parts of mulberry root extract, 0.001 to 10 parts of yellow sedge extract, and 0.001 to 10 parts of spearmint extract; The preparation method of the mulberry root extract comprises the following steps: grinding the mulberry root to obtain powder, adding an extraction solvent, mixing evenly, performing microwave extraction, and centrifuging to obtain a supernatant, wherein the supernatant is the mulberry root extract; The extraction solvent includes extraction solvent A and extraction solvent B; the extraction solvent A is a nonionic surfactant, and the extraction solvent B is water; The extraction solvent A is selected from polyglycerol-10 oleate or Tween-80; The mass ratio of the extraction solvent A, mulberry root powder and extraction solvent B is extraction solvent A: mulberry root powder: extraction solvent B = (0.05-0.3): 1:

30.

2. The whitening composition according to claim 1, It is characterized in that The invention comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1 to 8 parts of mulberry root extract, 0.1 to 5 parts of smilax glabra extract and 0.1 to 5 parts of spearmint extract.

3. The whitening composition according to claim 2, It is characterized in that The invention comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1 to 5 parts of mulberry root extract, 0.1 to 3 parts of smilax glabra extract and 0.1 to 1 part of spearmint extract.

4. The whitening composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, It is characterized in that The invention also comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.001 to 10 parts of loquat leaf extract, 0.001 to 10 parts of schisandra chinensis extract and 0.001 to 10 parts of saffron extract.

5. The whitening composition according to claim 4, It is characterized in that The weight portion of the loquat leaf extract is 0.1 to 1 part, the weight portion of the Schisandra chinensis extract is 0.1 to 1 part, and the weight portion of the saffron extract is 0.1 to 3 parts.

6. The whitening composition according to claim 4, It is characterized in that The weight portion of the loquat leaf extract is 0.3 to 3 parts, the weight portion of the Schisandra chinensis extract is 0.01 to 0.5 parts, and the weight portion of the saffron extract is 0.5 to 3 parts.

7. The whitening composition according to claim 5 or 6, It is characterized in that The weight portion of the loquat leaf extract is 0.3-1 part, the weight portion of the Schisandra chinensis extract is 0.1-0.5 part, and the weight portion of the saffron extract is 0.5-3 parts.

8. The whitening composition according to claim 1, It is characterized in that The mass ratio of the extraction solvent A, mulberry root powder and extraction solvent B is extraction solvent A: mulberry root powder: extraction solvent B = (0.05-0.1): 1:

30.

9. Use of the whitening composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 in the preparation of cosmetics.

10. A cosmetic product, It is characterized in that The whitening composition comprises the whitening composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8; the mass percentage of the whitening composition in the cosmetics is 1 to 20%.

11. The cosmetic according to claim 10, It is characterized in that The cosmetic is an essence; the essence also comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 1 to 10% of a heat preservation agent and 0.1 to 1% of a thickening agent.

Citation Information

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