Compositions, methods and kits for semi-permanent straightening and curling of keratin fibers

Abstract

The present invention relates to compositions, methods and kits for semi-permanent straightening and curling of keratin fibers. The combination of glyoxylic acid and alkyl glyceryl ethers or alkyl polyglyceryl ethers in an emulsion provides a thermoplastic effect which allows improving the remodeling ability of keratin fibers.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, method and kit for semi-permanent straightening and curling of keratin fibers. Background Art

[0002] Changing the shape of hair has always been in fashion. Straightening hair has been popular since the days of ancient Egypt. Women who did not have such natural hair used irons heated by fire to get their hair into the desired shape. This process often resulted in severe burns to the face and hands. It was not until the early 19th century that straightening irons became more professional with the invention of hair tongs by Marcel Grateau. Today, hot tools such as straightening irons and hair dryers are more popular than ever. They have become fashionable for consumers both in salons and in the mass market. These tools work at high temperatures (up to 230°C for straightening irons) to produce satisfactory straightening results. When dry hair comes into contact with the hot iron and at the same time applies appropriate pressure, the hair shape can be fixed for a period of time until the humidity returns to the original state of the hair. Unfortunately, the use of such high temperatures can cause hair damage, so they feel bad about the hair after use.

[0003] Until now, consumers who have decided to straighten their hair have been constrained by their decision because current technology does not allow them to return their hair to a curly state.

[0004] Glyoxylic acid is a known ingredient for hair cosmetics that allows for a lasting relaxation of curls and reduction of volume, in particular in combination with a hair straightening iron at high temperatures (WO 2011 / 104282, WO 2012 / 010351). However, once the consumer has decided to undergo this treatment, it is almost impossible to regain the original curls.

[0005] WO2015 / 036051 and WO201036052 describe the use of glyoxylic acid in the straightening process in combination with blow-drying heat and ironing heat as well as in post-straightening compositions.

[0006] WO2013 / 081018 discloses alkyl glyceryl ethers combined with lactic acid as hair treatment agents. However, the present invention requires glyoxylic acid. Summary of the invention

[0007] Therefore, a first object of the present invention is an aqueous cosmetic composition having a pH value of less than 4, comprising:

[0008] a) glyoxylic acid and / or its salt and / or its hydrate,

[0009] b) one or more alkyl glyceryl ethers and / or alkyl polyglyceryl ethers, and / or mixtures thereof,

[0010] c) one or more lipophilic compounds,

[0011] d) one or more surfactants different from those of group b),

[0012] The composition is an emulsion.

[0013] A second object of the present invention is a method for remodeling keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising the following steps:

[0014] i) applying said composition as defined above to the keratin fibres and leaving it to remain there for 1 to 60 minutes,

[0015] ii) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers and optionally drying the keratin fibers,

[0016] iii) treating the keratin fibers using a thermal tool at a temperature ranging from 45°C to 230°C,

[0017] iv) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers,

[0018] v) curling the keratin fibers, optionally using a curling tool at a temperature ranging from 45° C. to 230° C.,

[0019] vi) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers.

[0020] A third object of the present invention is a method for remodeling keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising the following steps:

[0021] vii) applying an aqueous composition having a pH value of less than 4 and comprising one or more compounds according to a) as defined above,

[0022] viii) leaving the composition on the keratin fibres for a period ranging from 1 to 60 minutes,

[0023] ix) optionally rinsing and optionally drying said keratin fibers,

[0024] x) treating said keratin fibres using a thermal tool at a temperature ranging from 45° C. to 230° C., xi) applying to said keratin fibres a composition comprising compounds b) to d) as defined above,

[0025] xii) leaving said composition on for a period ranging from 1 to 60 minutes, xiii) optionally treating said keratin fibres with a thermal tool at a temperature ranging from 45°C to 230°C.

[0026] A fourth object of the invention is a kit comprising the composition as defined above and a thermal tool.

[0027] A fifth object of the present invention is a kit comprising a first composition as defined in step vii) above and a second composition as defined in step xi) above. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0028] Figure 1 is a photograph of a hair tress treated with the composition of Example 1. The photograph was taken after the curling step. It can be clearly observed that the hair tress treated with Comparative Composition 1 shows the weakest curl, which is caused by the limited remodeling ability of the hair treated with Comparative Composition 1.

[0029] Figure 2 is a photograph of a hair tress treated with the composition of Example 1. The photograph was taken after the blow-drying and brushing steps. It illustrates the degree of straightening after curling without the straightening step. It can be clearly observed that the hair treated with Comparative Composition 2 exhibits greater waviness due to the limited straightness of the hair treated with Comparative Composition 2.

[0030] Figure 3 is a photograph of a hair tress treated with the composition of Example 2. The photograph was taken after the brushing and blow-drying steps. It can be clearly observed that the hair tresses treated with comparative compositions 3 and 4 show more curls, especially at the ends of the tresses, while the inventive composition 2 provides the straightest hair tresses.

[0031] Figure 4 is a photograph of a hair tress treated with the composition of Example 2. The photograph was taken after the curling step. It can be clearly observed that the hair tresses treated with the inventive composition 2 and the comparative composition 4 show stronger curls, while the comparative composition 3 exhibits the weakest curls.

[0032] Figure 5 is a photograph of a hair tress treated with the composition of Example 3. The photograph was taken after the brushing and blow-drying steps. It can be clearly observed that the hair tress treated with Comparative Composition 5 is less defined and has frizzy ends, while the composition of the present invention provides the most defined hair tress.

[0033] Figure 6 is a photograph of a hair tress treated with the composition of Example 3. The photograph was taken after the curling step. It can be clearly observed that the hair tress treated with the composition of the invention has a stronger curl than the comparative composition 5. The latter has the weakest curl of the group. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0034] The present invention solves the above-mentioned problems of the prior art and allows the conversion of curled keratin fibers to straight keratin fibers and, if desired, back to the original curled keratin fibers. In addition, the straightness of the keratin fibers is also improved, whether or not they have been curled before, and can be converted from curled to straight.

[0035] The present invention relates to an aqueous cosmetic composition having a pH value of less than 4, comprising:

[0036] a) glyoxylic acid and / or its salt and / or its hydrate,

[0037] b) one or more alkyl glyceryl ethers and / or alkyl polyglyceryl ethers and / or mixtures thereof,

[0038] c) one or more lipophilic compounds,

[0039] d) one or more surfactants different from those of group b),

[0040] The composition is an emulsion.

[0041] Without being bound by any theory, the applicant has found that the compounds according to b) allow the hair to undergo a thermoplastic transition. It is believed that these compounds act as plasticizers for the hair. Thus, the compositions of the present invention allow consumers to change their hairstyle from curly hair to straight hair and then back from straight hair to curly hair.

[0042] From the perspective of cosmetic acceptability and safety, it is preferred that the pH value of the composition is in the range of 0.5 to 3.5, preferably in the range of 1 to 3, more preferably in the range of 1.5 to 2.5.

[0043] From the perspective of cosmetic acceptability and consumer usability, it is further preferred that the composition of the present invention is an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0044] Compound according to a)

[0045] As the compound according to a), the composition of the present invention comprises glyoxylic acid and / or its salt and / or its hydrate.

[0046] For the purposes of the present invention, glyoxylic acid can be used in the form of its free acid and in the form of its hydrate. The hydrate is formed by providing an aqueous solution of glyoxylic acid, in which, without any further pH adjustment, glyoxylic acid is present almost quantitatively in the form of its hydrate. In addition, the hydrate can condense into a dimer.

[0047] Glyoxylates may also be used. By adjusting the pH of the composition with any known base, salt formation is inevitable. Suitable salts are alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium, alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium, or ammonium salts.

[0048] From the viewpoint of straightening efficiency, the concentration of the compound according to a) is preferably 0.1 wt% or more, more preferably 0.2 wt% or more, further more preferably 0.5 wt% or more, further more preferably 1 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0049] From the viewpoint of straightening efficiency and cosmetic safety, the concentration of the compound according to a) is preferably 25 wt % or less, more preferably 20 wt % or less, further more preferably 15 wt % or less, further more preferably 12 wt % or less, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0050] In order to achieve the above-mentioned effects, the concentration of the compound according to a) is preferably in the range of 0.1 wt % to 25 wt %, preferably in the range of 0.2 wt % to 20 wt %, more preferably in the range of 0.5 wt % to 15 wt %, and further more preferably in the range of 1 wt % to 12 wt %, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0051] Compounds according to b)

[0052] As compounds according to b), the composition of the invention comprises one or more alkyl glyceryl ethers and / or alkyl polyglyceryl ethers, and / or mixtures thereof.

[0053] From the viewpoint of oil solubility and emulsification, the HLB value of the compound according to b) is preferably in the range of 2 to 7. This allows the preparation of co-emulsions with the compounds according to c) and d).

[0054] If, however, the compounds according to b) have other HLB values, they can be dispersed in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0055] From the viewpoint of emulsification, the alkyl chain of the compound according to b) is preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having a total carbon number of 8 or more.

[0056] From the viewpoint of imparting thermoplasticity to keratin fibers, the alkyl chain of the compound according to b) is further preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having a total carbon number of 9 or more.

[0057] From the viewpoint of emulsification, the alkyl chain of the compound according to b) is preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having a total carbon number of 18 or less.

[0058] In order to achieve the above-mentioned effects, the alkyl chain of the compound according to b) is preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having a total carbon number in the range of 8 to 18, more preferably in the range of 9 to 18.

[0059] Suitable examples of compounds according to b) are isostearyl glyceryl ether, stearyl glyceryl ether, isodecyl glyceryl ether, 2-ethylhexyl glyceryl ether and cetyl glyceryl ether and also the alkyl polyglyceryl ethers disclosed, for example, in EP2003110.

[0060] From the viewpoint of commercial availability and imparting thermoplasticity to keratin fibers, the one or more compounds according to b) are preferably isostearyl glyceryl ether.

[0061] From the perspective of hair transformation, the total concentration of the one or more compounds according to b) is further preferably 0.1 wt% or more, more preferably 0.25 wt% or more, more preferably 0.5 wt% or more, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0062] From the perspective of hair transformation, the total concentration of the one or more compounds according to b) is further preferably 10 wt% or less, more preferably 8 wt% or less, more preferably 5 wt% or less, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0063] In order to achieve the above effects, the total concentration of one or more compounds according to b) is in the range of 0.1 wt % to 10 wt %, preferably 0.25 wt % to 8 wt %, more preferably 0.5 wt % to 5 wt %, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0064] Compounds according to c)

[0065] The composition of the invention comprises more than one lipophilic compound. The lipophilic compounds according to c) are immiscible with water at 25° C. under atmospheric pressure. However, these compounds can be emulsified with the help of compounds according to d) to form an emulsion.

[0066] Suitable compounds according to c) are selected from fatty alcohols with a total carbon number ranging from C8 to C22 and having a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, optionally substituted by OH, fatty acid esters esterified from linear or branched alcohols with an alkyl chain length of C3 to C22 and linear or branched fatty acids with an alkyl chain length of C12 to C22, petrolatum-based compounds, organopolysiloxanes, vegetable oils, and / or mixtures thereof.

[0067] Suitable fatty alcohols having a total carbon number in the range from C8 to C22 and having a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain which are optionally substituted by OH are, for example, caprylic alcohol, decanol, lauryl alcohol, tridecanol, myristyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, heptadecanol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, nonadecanol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and / or mixtures thereof.

[0068] Suitable fatty acid esters esterified from straight or branched alcohols having an alkyl chain length of C3 to C22 and straight or branched fatty acids having an alkyl chain length of C12 to C22 are, for example, octyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl stearate, oleyl oleate, and myristyl myristate, and mixtures thereof.

[0069] Suitable petrolatum-based compounds are, for example, mineral oil, polydecene, petrolatum, paraffinum perliquidum and paraffinum subliquidum, and / or mixtures thereof.

[0070] Suitable organopolysiloxanes are preferably water-insoluble organopolysiloxanes, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes of various viscosities and molecular weights and polydimethylsiloxanols containing primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary ammonium groups, aminated silicones such as amodimethicone, polysilicone 9 and quaternium salt 80, cyclic silicones such as cyclomethicone, arylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicone.

[0071] Suitable vegetable oils are olive oil, almond oil, avocado oil, wheat germ oil and castor oil.

[0072] From the viewpoint of emulsion stability, the total concentration of the compounds according to c) is preferably 0.5 wt% or more, more preferably 1 wt% or more, further more preferably 2 wt% or more, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0073] From the viewpoint of emulsion stability and emulsion type, the total concentration of the compounds according to c) is preferably 25 wt% or less, more preferably 20 wt% or less, further more preferably 15 wt% or less, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0074] The composition according to any one of the above, characterized in that the total concentration of the compounds according to c) is in the range of 0.5 wt % to 25 wt %, preferably 1 wt % to 20 wt %, more preferably 2 wt % to 15 wt %, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0075] Compounds according to d)

[0076] The composition of the invention comprises one or more surfactants as compounds according to d), which are different from group b).

[0077] The compounds according to d) ensure the stability of the emulsion.

[0078] From the viewpoint of emulsion stability, the one or more compounds according to d) are preferably selected from nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants, and / or mixtures thereof, preferably from nonionic and / or cationic surfactants.

[0079] A suitable nonionic surfactant preferably has an HLB value in the range of 7 to 14 from the viewpoint of stabilizing the emulsion.

[0080] Suitable nonionic surfactants are, for example, fatty alcohol ethoxylates, propylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols, polyethylene glycol or propylene glycol esters of fatty acids, ethoxylated or propoxylated triglycerides, alkyl glycosides, and / or mixtures thereof.

[0081] Suitable cationic surfactants are, for example, quaternary ammonium salts with an alkyl chain length in the range from C12 to C22. Suitable examples are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoyldimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, dioleoylethyldimethylammonium methosulfate, dioleoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate and / or mixtures thereof.

[0082] Suitable anionic surfactants are, for example, those with an alkyl chain length of C 10 To C 22 Alkyl sulfate or ethoxylated alkyl ether sulfate surfactants, and / or mixtures thereof.

[0083] Suitable surfactants are, for example, laureth sulfate, coceth sulfate, alkanol sulfate, capryl sulfate, myristyl sulfate, oleth sulfate, decanol sulfate, tridecyl sulfate, coconut sulfate, C 10 -C 16 Alkyl sulfate, C 11 -C 15 Alkyl sulfate, C 12 -C 18 Alkyl sulfate, C 12 -C 15 Alkyl sulfate, C 12 -C 16 Alkyl sulfate, C 12 -C 13Alkyl sulfate, lauryl sulfate, myristyl sulfate, palm kernel sulfate, cetearyl sulfate, cetyl sulfate, decyl sulfate, oleyl sulfate, behenyl sulfate, and / or their salts, and / or their mixtures. All of the above anionic surfactants may be ethoxylated to varying degrees or may not be ethoxylated.

[0084] The cation of the anionic surfactant may be selected from sodium, potassium, magnesium, and / or ammonium.

[0085] Suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are, for example, the various known betaines, such as alkyl betaines, fatty acid amide alkyl betaines and sultaines, such as lauryl hydroxysultaine; long-chain alkyl amino acids, such as cocoaminoacetic acid, cocoaminopropionic acid, sodium cocoaminopropionate and sodium cocoaminoacetate are suitable, and / or mixtures thereof.

[0086] From the viewpoint of emulsion stability, the most preferred surfactants are cationic surfactants, particularly cetyltrimethylammonium chloride.

[0087] From the viewpoint of emulsion stability, the total concentration of the compounds according to d) is preferably 0.2 wt% or more, more preferably 0.5 wt% or more, more preferably 1 wt% or more, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0088] From the viewpoint of emulsion stability, the total concentration of the compounds according to d) is preferably 10 wt% or less, more preferably 5 wt% or less, more preferably 3 wt% or less, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0089] In order to achieve the above effects, the total concentration of the compounds according to d) is preferably in the range of 0.2 to 10 wt %, more preferably 0.5 to 5 wt %, more preferably 1 to 3 wt %, calculated based on the total weight of the composition.

[0090] One-step treatment

[0091] The present invention also relates to a method for remodeling keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising the following steps:

[0092] i) applying a composition as defined above to the keratin fibres and leaving it on the keratin fibres for a period ranging from 1 to 60 minutes,

[0093] ii) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers and optionally drying the keratin fibers,

[0094] iii) treating the keratin fibers using a thermal tool at a temperature ranging from 45°C to 230°C,

[0095] iv) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers,

[0096] v) curling the keratin fibers, optionally using a curling tool at a temperature ranging from 45° C. to 230° C.,

[0097] vi) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers.

[0098] Preferably, from the viewpoint of straightening, the time range of step i) is in the range of 5 to 45 minutes, more preferably in the range of 10 to 30 minutes.

[0099] For step iii), from the perspective of straightening, it is preferred that the hot tool is a hair straightening iron for straightening, with a surface temperature ranging from 90° C. to 230° C., more preferably from 130° C. to 210° C. Alternatively, from the perspective of consumer suitability, a hair dryer and a comb with an air temperature ranging from 45° C. to 90° C. may be used.

[0100] For the curling step v), it is preferred to use a curling iron or a hot comb having a more preferred temperature range of from 90° C. to 210° C. from the viewpoint of curling efficiency and hair damage.

[0101] Two-step approach

[0102] The present invention also relates to a method for remodeling keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising the following steps:

[0103] vii) applying an aqueous composition having a pH value of less than 4 and comprising one or more compounds according to a) as defined above,

[0104] viii) leaving the composition on the keratin fibres for a period ranging from 1 to 60 minutes,

[0105] ix) optionally rinsing and optionally drying the keratin fibers,

[0106] x) treating the keratin fibers using a thermal tool at a temperature ranging from 45° C. to 230° C.,

[0107] xi) applying to the keratin fibres a composition comprising compounds b) to d) as defined above,

[0108] xii) leaving the composition on for a period of 1 to 60 minutes,

[0109] xiii) optionally treating the keratin fibers using a thermal tool at a temperature ranging from 45° C. to 230° C.,

[0110] As a further optional step, the above process may include:

[0111] xv) curling the keratin fibers, optionally using a curling tool at a temperature in the range of 45° C. to 230° C.,

[0112] xvi) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers.

[0113] The two-step method is an alternative to the one-step method and produces equally good results.

[0114] Preferably, from the viewpoint of straightening, the time range of steps vii) and / or xii) is in the range of 5 to 45 minutes, more preferably in the range of 10 to 30 minutes.

[0115] For steps x) and / or xiii), from the perspective of straightening, it is preferred to use a hair straightening iron having a surface temperature in the range of 90° C. to 230° C., more preferably 130° C. to 210° C. Alternatively, from the perspective of consumer suitability, a hair dryer and a comb having an air temperature in the range of 45° C. to 90° C. may be used.

[0116] For the curling step xv), it is preferred to use a curling iron or a hot comb having a more preferred temperature range of from 90° C. to 210° C. from the viewpoint of curling efficiency and hair damage.

[0117] Accessories Set

[0118] The invention further relates to a kit comprising a composition according to the invention as defined above and a thermal tool. Suitable thermal tools are hair dryers, hot combs, curling irons and / or straightening irons.

[0119] The present invention further relates to a kit comprising the first composition defined in step vii) above and the second composition defined in step xi) above. Optionally, the kit may also comprise a thermal tool. Suitable thermal tools are a hair dryer, a hot comb, a curling iron and / or a straightening iron.

[0120] The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention but not to limit the present invention.

[0121] Example

[0122] Example 1

[0123] The following compositions were prepared by adding compounds b), c) and d) to water and heating the mixture with stirring above 70° C. After cooling, compound a) or lactic acid and NaOH were added.

[0124]

[0125] Human hair tresses (Caucasian hair, 2 g per tress, 21 cm long) were purchased from Fischbach+Miller Haar, Laupheim, Germany. The tresses were shampooed with a commercially available shampoo under the brand name Goldwell Dualsenses Deep Cleansing Shampoo. 1 g of each of the above compositions was then applied to the tresses and the compositions were left on the tresses for 3 minutes. The tresses were then rinsed with lukewarm water for 1 minute and blow-dried. As a next step, the hair was treated with a straightening iron 3 times at an iron surface temperature of 160°C. At this point, the straightness of the tresses was evaluated.

[0126] Then, the hair tresses were treated once with a curling iron at an iron surface temperature of 180°C, with each hair tress being treated for 10 seconds. At this time, the curl of the hair tresses was evaluated (see Figure 1 ).

[0127] As a final step, the hair tresses were shampooed using the commercially available shampoo described above, brushed, and blow-dried. At this point, the hair tresses were again assessed for straightness (see Figure 2 ).

[0128] The following table and Figure 1 and Figure 2 The following results are shown:

[0129] Procedure Composition 1 of the present invention Comparative composition 1 Comparative composition 2 Straightness after straight ironing Very straight Very straight Very straight Curl after perming ( Figure 1 ) Strong Roll Weak volume Strong Roll Straightness after shampooing and blow-drying ( Figure 2 ) Slight waves Slight waves wave

[0130] As a result of the above comparative tests, the composition of the present invention provides the best remodeling ability from straight hair to curly hair and back to straight hair. Both comparative compositions did not show the same performance.

[0131] Example 2

[0132] The following compositions were prepared by adding compounds b), c) and d) or their equivalents (for comparative purposes) to water and heating the mixture with stirring above 70° C. After cooling, compound a) or lactic acid and NaOH were added.

[0133]

[0134] Human hair tresses (Caucasian hair, 2 g per tress, 21 cm long) were purchased from Fischbach+Miller Haar, Laupheim, Germany. The tresses were shampooed with a commercially available shampoo under the brand name Goldwell Dualsenses Deep Cleansing Shampoo. 1 g of each of the above compositions was then applied to the tresses and the compositions were left on the tresses for 3 minutes. The tresses were then rinsed with lukewarm water for 1 minute and blow-dried. The above application, rinsing and blow-drying steps were repeated 2 more times, but the last blow-drying step was replaced by air drying. As a next step, the tresses were brushed and blow-dried using hot air at a temperature of 60°C. At this point, the straightness of the tresses was evaluated (see Figure 3 ).

[0135] Then, the hair tresses were treated once with a curling iron at an iron surface temperature of 130°C, with each hair tress being treated for 10 seconds. At this time, the curl of the hair tresses was evaluated (see Figure 4 ).

[0136] The following table and Figure 3 and Figure 4 The following results are shown:

[0137] Procedure Composition 2 of the present invention Comparative composition 3 Comparative composition 4 Straightness after brushing and blow drying ( Figure 3 ) straight Small end roll Middle and end roll Curl after perming ( Figure 4 ) Strong Roll Weak volume Strong Roll

[0138] As a result of the above comparative tests, the composition of the present invention provides the best restyling ability from straight to curly hair. Neither of the two comparative ingredients exhibits the same performance.

[0139] Example 3

[0140] The following compositions were prepared by adding compounds b), c) and d) or their equivalents (for comparative purposes) to water and heating the mixture with stirring above 70° C. After cooling, compound a) or lactic acid and NaOH were added.

[0141]

[0142] For the above compositions, the same experimental protocol as explained in Example 2 was used.

[0143] Assess the straightness of the hair strands (see Figure 5 ).

[0144] Then, the hair tresses were treated once with a curling iron at an iron surface temperature of 130°C for 10 seconds per hair tress. At this time, the curl of the hair tresses was evaluated (see Figure 6 ).

[0145] The following table and Figure 5 and Figure 6 The following results are shown:

[0146]

[0147] As a result of the above comparative test, the composition of the present invention provides the best reshaping ability from straight hair to curly hair. The comparative composition suffers from frizzy straightness, low degree of bundle, and poor curling performance.

[0148] The following examples are within the scope of the present invention.

[0149] Example 4

[0150]

[0151] Example 5

[0152]

[0153]

[0154] Example 6

[0155]

Claims

1. An aqueous cosmetic composition having a pH value of 1.5 to 2.5, wherein: include: a) glyoxylic acid and / or its salts and / or its hydrates, 0.1% to 12% by weight, b) isostearyl glyceryl ether, cetyl glyceryl ether, hexyldecyl polyglyceryl ether and / or mixtures thereof, 0.1 to 10% by weight, c) cetearyl alcohol, 0.5% to 15% by weight, d) cetrimonium chloride and / or ceteareth, 0.2 to 10% by weight, The composition is an emulsion.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The concentration of the compound according to a) is in the range of 0.2% to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that The concentration of the compound according to a) is in the range of 0.5% to 12% by weight, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that The concentration of the compound according to a) is in the range of 1% to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that The one or more compounds according to b) is isostearyl glyceryl ether.

6. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that The total concentration of the one or more compounds according to b) is in the range of 0.25 wt % to 8 wt %, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that The total concentration of the one or more compounds according to b) is in the range of 0.5 wt % to 5 wt %, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that The total concentration of the compounds according to c) is in the range of 1% to 15% by weight, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that The total concentration of the compounds according to c) is in the range of 2% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that The total concentration of the compounds according to d) is in the range of 0.5% to 5% by weight, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that The total concentration of the compounds according to d) is in the range of 1 wt.-% to 3 wt.-%, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

12. A method for remodeling keratin fibers, wherein: The following steps are involved: i) applying the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4 to keratin fibers and leaving it to remain there for a period of 1 to 60 minutes, ii) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers and optionally drying the keratin fibers, iii) treating the keratin fibers using a thermal tool at a temperature ranging from 45°C to 230°C, iv) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers, v) curling the keratin fibers, optionally using a curling tool at a temperature ranging from 45° C. to 230° C., vi) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers.

13. The method according to claim 12, characterized in that The straightening step can be performed by using a straightening iron at a temperature ranging from 90°C to 230°C or by using a hair dryer and a comb at a temperature ranging from 45°C to 90°C.

14. A set of accessories, wherein: The invention comprises a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11 and a hot tool.

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