Hair conditioning composition containing behenamidopropyl dimethylamine

Abstract

A hair conditioner composition comprising an aqueous carrier, from about 2.5% to about 6.7% by weight of behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, from about 3% to about 8% by weight of a fatty alcohol; and less than 1.5% by weight of a salt. The molar ratio of behenamidopropyl dimethylamine to fatty alcohol may be from about 7:50 to about 4:5. The conditioner composition may have a uniform gel network. The composition may have a d-spacing of less than 32 nm, as measured by the d-spacing (Lβ-substrate spacing) according to the Sheet Gel Network Test Method.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to hair conditioner compositions, and more particularly to hair conditioner compositions comprising a behenamidopropyl dimethylamine cationic surfactant. Background Art

[0002] A variety of approaches have been developed to condition hair. These range from applying hair conditioners after shampooing, such as leave-in and rinse-off products, to hair conditioning shampoos that attempt to cleanse and condition the hair from a single product.

[0003] Although some consumers prefer the ease and convenience of shampoos containing conditioners, the majority of consumers prefer more conventional conditioner formulations, which are typically applied to the hair after shampooing as a separate step from shampooing. Conditioning formulations may be in the form of rinse-off products or leave-on products, and may be in the form of emulsions, creams, gels, sprays, and mousses. Such consumers who prefer conventional conditioner formulations have a relatively high conditioning effect, or the convenience of varying the amount of conditioning according to the condition of the hair or the amount of hair.

[0004] Some consumers want to reduce or eliminate certain ingredients in their hair care products, including certain surfactants and preservatives. Some consumers want the ingredients in their hair care products to be EWG VERIFIED TM , without Whole Any ingredient listed as unacceptable for body care and Application is classified as "Risk-Free" (green dot).

[0005] However, changing the conditioning agent can have a negative impact on the product. For example, modifying cationic surfactants can reduce conditioning performance, and modifying the preservative system can negatively impact microbiological safety requirements.

[0006] Therefore, there is a need for a conditioner composition having an effective surfactant and preservative system, namely EWGVERIFIED TM , which does not contain Whole Any ingredient listed as unacceptable by the Market and Application is classified as "Risk Free". Summary of the invention

[0007] The hair conditioner composition may contain: (a) an aqueous carrier; (b) from about 2.5% to about 6.7% by weight of behenamidopropyl dimethylamine; (c) from about 3% to about 8% by weight of a fatty alcohol; (d) less than 1.5% by weight of a salt selected from the group consisting of sodium benzoate, sodium salicylate, sodium chloride, sodium carbonate, sodium borate, sodium acetate, sodium citrate, potassium benzoate, potassium acetate, calcium gluconate, calcium chloride, potassium sorbate, and combinations thereof; wherein the molar ratio of behenamidopropyl dimethylamine to fatty alcohol is from about 7:50 to about 4:5; wherein the composition comprises a uniform gel network; wherein the composition comprises a d-spacing of less than 32 nm, as measured by the d-spacing (Lβ-substrate spacing) according to the Lamellar Gel Network Test Method.

[0008] A hair care composition comprising: (a) an aqueous carrier; (b) from about 2.5% to about 6.25% by weight of behenamidopropyl dimethylamine; (c) a fatty alcohol selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, brassicerol, cetyl alcohol, and combinations thereof; (d) a preservative system comprising (i) from about 0.1% to about 0.5% sodium benzoate, by weight of the composition; (ii) from about 0.3% to about 1.5% of a second composition selected from the group consisting of glycols, glycerides, and combinations thereof;

[0009] wherein the ratio of sodium benzoate to the second composition is from about 1:4 to about 1:1; wherein the molar ratio of behenamidopropyl dimethylamine to fatty alcohol is from about 3:20 to about 3:4; wherein the composition comprises a uniform gel network; wherein the composition comprises a d-spacing of from about 15 nm to about 30 nm, as measured by the d-spacing (Lβ-substrate spacing) according to the Lamellar Gel Network Test Method. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0010] While the specification concludes with claims which particularly point out and distinctly claim the subject matter of the invention, it is believed the invention will be more readily understood from the following description taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, wherein:

[0011] Figure 1A The chemical structure of behenamidopropyldimethylamine (BAPDMA) is shown;

[0012] Figure 1B The chemical structure of BAPDMA after activation by λ-glutamic acid is shown;

[0013] Figure 2 Shown are the melting transition behaviors of the gel networks of Examples A to E and Comparative Examples A and B, as measured by the Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) test method;

[0014] Figure 3 is a photograph of a conditioner composition of Comparative Example J, which contains 1 wt % sodium benzoate and has a lumpy and granular appearance;

[0015] Figure 4 is a photograph of a conditioner composition of Comparative Example K, which contains 2 weight percent caprylyl glycol and has a thin and grainy appearance;

[0016] Figure 5 is a photograph of the conditioner composition of Example A containing 0.20 wt. % sodium benzoate and 0.40 wt. % caprylyl glycol. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0017] While the specification concludes with claims which particularly point out and distinctly claim the invention, it is believed that the present invention will be better understood from the following description.

[0018] Hair conditioners are used to improve the feel, appearance and manageability of hair. Hair conditioning compositions typically contain a cationic surfactant, a high melting point fatty compound having a melting point greater than 25°C and in some embodiments, 40°C to 85°C, and an aqueous carrier. The ingredients in current hair conditioners, including cationic surfactants and preservative systems, are generally considered safe and effective.

[0019] However, there is a growing demand among some consumers for conditioner products and / or preservative systems that meet at least one, two, or all three of the following criteria:

[0020] ·EWG VERIFIED TM (as of November 25, 2019) and includes meeting Environmental Working Group (EWG) criteria, including avoiding EWG ingredients of concern, having full transparency labeling, and using good manufacturing practices, in addition to the other criteria described in EWG Acceptable Criteria: Personal Care Products (2019).

[0021] ·Not including Whole Any ingredient listed as unacceptable in its Premium Body Care Unacceptable Ingredients (July 2018)

[0022] · Application classified as “Risk-Free” (Green Dot) (March 2019)

[0023] However, it can be challenging to replace traditional cationic surfactants, such as behentrimonium chloride (BTMAC) and / or stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (SAPDMA), which are restricted by the Environmental Working Group (EWG) for use in cosmetics from November 25, 2019 (a listed on the Whole Foods List). Premium Body Care Unacceptable Ingredients (July 2018)) and preservatives containing ingredients that meet the above standards.

[0024] Behenamidopropyl dimethylamine (BAPDMA) has been identified as a cationic surfactant that may meet the above criteria. However, it can be difficult to formulate an effective conditioning composition containing BAPDMA because BAPDMA is Figure 1A The structure of C 22 Amidoamine. BAPDMA needs to be activated with an acid such as λ-glutamic acid to become cationic. However, after forming a cationic surfactant, such as Figure 1B As shown in the structure of , it has a large head group 1. This large head group tends to affect the surfactant and fatty alcohol packing during the melt stage when the gel network is formed. This results in a large d-spacing in the gel network in the conditioner composition, which generally results in the conditioner having poor wet conditioning properties.

[0025] Surprisingly, it was found that the d-spacing in the conditioner compositions of the present invention (see Tables 3 to 7 below) is less than 30 nm. It is believed that conditioners with a d-spacing less than 30 nm can provide good conditioning, clean feel, volume and consumer preferred shear stress.

[0026] While not wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the molar ratio of BAPDMA to fatty alcohol and the addition of salts including sodium benzoate can produce a conditioner composition with a d-spacing less than 30 nm that provides good conditioning performance including good slippery feel and wet detangling.

[0027] Table 1 below compares the d-spacing of four commercially available conditioner compositions with that of Examples 1 to 28 in Tables 3 to 7. The d-spacing of Examples 1 to 28 was found to be similar to that of Herbal Honey and vitamin B conditioning agents containing BTMAC and having a lower d-spacing than other examples, including John A clear, sparkling whitening conditioner containing the same cationic polymer (BAPDMA) as in Examples 1-28.

[0028] Table 1: d-spacing of current product and Examples 1 to 28

[0029]

[0030] 1. Batch No. 83565395LF, purchased from Mason, Ohio 2019

[0031] 2. Batch No. 82325395LK, purchased from Mason, Ohio 2019

[0032] 3. Batch No. 82165395LC, purchased from Mason, Ohio 2019

[0033] 4. Batch number X0J11438 B, purchased from Mason, Ohio 2019

[0034] Additionally, the conditioners of Examples 1 to 28 (Tables 3 to 7) had a uniform gel network as indicated by a single peak when subjected to the Differential Scanning Calorimetry test method.

[0035] Furthermore, conditioner compositions that provide good wet conditioning may weigh the hair down, resulting in a loss of dry hair volume and / or may make the hair feel dirty and / or greasy quickly, which may cause consumers to wash their hair more frequently. It was found that the hair conditioner compositions of Examples 1 to 35 not only provide good hair conditioning, but also provide good hair volume and / or provide a long-lasting clean feel, allowing for less frequent washing.

[0036] In addition, Tables 9 and 10 below include examples with sodium benzoate preservatives that meet the criteria. However, if the conditioner composition has a smooth and creamy consistency, the level of sodium benzoate is too low to effectively inhibit the growth of microorganisms. When the level of sodium benzoate increases, the conditioner composition is too thin to be easily applied by the user's hands, which can significantly affect product performance and usage experience. As shown in Table 11 and described in the accompanying text, a preservative system containing sodium benzoate and a glycol (such as caprylyl glycol) or a glyceride (such as caprylic / capric glyceride and caprylic (and) undecylenic glyceride) may be effective if appropriate levels of each ingredient are added.

[0037] It was found that a preservative system comprising sodium benzoate and a second composition selected from the group consisting of glycols, glycerides, and combinations thereof, containing all ingredients with an EWG rating score of 3 or less, may be EWG VERIFIED TM , which may not contain Whole Any ingredient listed as unacceptable by the Market and may be Application is classified as "risk-free", antimicrobial effectiveness is maintained, and good conditioning properties are provided.

[0038] The second composition can contain glycol and / or glyceride. Both glycol and glyceride have two-OH groups on the molecule. Non-limiting examples of glycols can include butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, octanediol, decanediol (1,2-decanediol) and mixtures thereof. In one example, glycol can be octanediol. Non-limiting examples of glyceride can include caprylic acid glyceride, capric acid glyceride, undecylenic acid glyceride and mixtures thereof.

[0039] In some examples, the cationic surfactant, preservative system and / or conditioning agent may also meet the COSMOS standard (January 1, 2019). The conditioning composition containing this preservative system may have a uniform, smooth, creamy appearance and have an effective preservative system, wherein the level of microorganisms (both bacteria and fungi) is undetectable (>99.99% reduction) as determined by the Bacterial and Fungal Microbiological Susceptibility Test Methods described herein.

[0040] The conditioner composition and / or preservative system may be free or substantially free of certain preservatives, particularly preservatives that do not meet one or more of the requirements, isothiazolinones, including 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one and 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one (available as Kathon TM CG from Commercially available), benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, cyclohexylglycerin and / or parabens. The conditioner composition may be free or substantially free of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts.

[0041] In addition to meeting the criteria for cationic surfactants and preservative systems, some consumers prefer conditioning compositions that are free or substantially free of silicones, propellants, phthalates, parabens, isothiazolinones (e.g., Kathon®), and TM ), phenoxyethanol, dyes, sulfates and / or formaldehyde donors. The conditioner composition may also be vegan.

[0042] The conditioner composition may be free or substantially free of behenyltrimonium chloride, cetyltrimonium chloride and / or stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

[0043] The conditioner composition may contain less than 6.75 wt % BAPDMA, alternatively less than about 6.50 wt % BAPDMA, alternatively less than about 6.25 wt % BAPDMA. The conditioner composition may contain from about 2 wt % to about 6.7 wt % BAPDMA, alternatively from about 2.2 wt % to about 6.5 wt %, alternatively from about 2.5 wt % to about 6.25 wt %, alternatively from about 2.75 wt % to about 6 wt % BAPDMA.

[0044] The conditioner composition may contain a fatty alcohol selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, brassicyl alcohol, and cetyl alcohol. The conditioner composition may contain less than 8 wt%, alternatively less than 7.5 wt%, alternatively less than 7 wt% fatty alcohol. The conditioner composition may contain from about 2.5 wt% to about 9 wt%, alternatively from about 3 wt% to about 8 wt%, alternatively from about 3.25 wt% to about 7.5 wt%, alternatively from about 3.5 wt% to about 7 wt%, alternatively from about 4 wt% to about 6.7 wt% fatty alcohol.

[0045] The conditioner composition may have a total gel network (GN) content (BAPDMA + fatty alcohol (FAOH)) of from about 0.1 mole to about 0.6 mole, alternatively from about 0.2 mole to about 0.5 mole, alternatively from about 0.3 mole to about 0.4 mole.

[0046] The conditioner composition may have a molar ratio of stearyl alcohol (C18 fatty alcohol) to total FAOH of from about 1:10 to about 1:1, alternatively from about 1:5 to about 9:10, alternatively from about 3:10 to about 4:5, and alternatively from about 2:5 to about 7:10.

[0047] The conditioner composition may have a molar ratio of acid to BAPDMA of from about 1 :2 to about 7:4, alternatively from about 3:5 to about 1 :2, alternatively from about 7:10 to about 5:4, and alternatively from about 4:5 to about 1.3:1.

[0048] The conditioner composition may have a molar ratio of BAPDMA to FAOH of from about 3:25 to about 9:10, from about 7:50 to about 4:5, from about 3:20 to about 3:4, from about 17:100 to about 7:10, and alternatively from about 9:50 to about 2:3.

[0049] The conditioner composition may have a d-spacing of less than 32 nm, alternatively less than 30 nm, and alternatively less than 28 nm. The conditioner composition may have a d-spacing of about 10 nm to about 30 nm, alternatively about 15 nm to about 30 nm, alternatively about 17 nm to about 29 nm, alternatively about 18 nm to about 28 nm, and alternatively about 20 nm to about 27 nm. The d-spacing is determined by the d-spacing (Lβ-substrate spacing) of the Lamellar Gel Network Test Method described herein.

[0050] The conditioner composition may contain from about 0.2 wt % to about 1.5 wt % of the preservative system, alternatively from about 0.3 wt % to about 1.25 wt % of the preservative system, alternatively from about 0.4 wt % to about 1 wt % of the preservative system, alternatively from about 0.5 wt % to about 0.8 wt % of the preservative system, and alternatively from about 0.6 wt % to about 0.8 wt % of the preservative system.

[0051] The conditioner composition may contain from about 0.05% to about 0.8% sodium benzoate, alternatively from 0.1% to about 0.5% sodium benzoate, alternatively from about 0.2% to about 0.4% sodium benzoate by weight. The conditioner composition may contain sodium benzoate, and may contain less than 2% sodium benzoate, alternatively less than 1.5% sodium benzoate, alternatively less than 1% sodium benzoate, alternatively less than 0.8% sodium benzoate, alternatively less than 0.6% sodium benzoate by weight, and alternatively less than 0.5% sodium benzoate.

[0052] The preservative system may contain from about 20% to about 50% sodium benzoate by weight of the preservative system, alternatively from about 25% to about 50% sodium benzoate by weight of the preservative system, from about 30% to about 50% sodium benzoate by weight of the preservative system, and from about 30% to about 40% sodium benzoate by weight of the preservative system.

[0053] The conditioner composition may contain from about 0.3% to about 1.5%, alternatively from about 0.32% to about 1%, alternatively from about 0.33% to about 0.8%, alternatively from about 0.34% to about 0.6%, alternatively from about 0.35% to about 0.5%, alternatively from about 0.37% to about 0.45%, and alternatively from about 0.38% to about 0.43% by weight of the second composition. If the conditioner composition contains too much glycol and / or glyceride, the gel network structure may be disrupted and the conditioner will not have rheology and / or performance acceptable to consumers.

[0054] The preservative system may contain from about 50% to about 80% of the second composition by weight of the preservative system, alternatively from about 50% to about 75% by weight of the preservative system, alternatively from about 50% to about 70% by weight of the preservative system, and alternatively from about 50% to about 67% by weight of the preservative system.

[0055] The weight ratio of sodium benzoate to the second composition can be about 1:4 to about 1:1, alternatively about 1:3 to about 1:1, alternatively about 1:2 to about 1:1, and alternatively about 1:1.7 to about 1:1.

[0056] The conditioner composition may have a shear stress of from about 50 Pa to about 600 Pa, alternatively from about 75 Pa to about 575 Pa, alternatively from about 100 Pa to about 565 Pa, alternatively from about 105 Pa to about 550 Pa, alternatively from about 120 Pa to about 500 Pa, and alternatively from about 125 Pa to about 450 Pa. Shear stress may be determined using the Shear Stress Test Method described below.

[0057] The conditioner composition may have a pH of less than 5. Alternatively, the conditioner composition may have a pH of from about 2.5 to about 5, alternatively from 3.5 to about 4.5. The pH may be determined using the pH Test Method described below.

[0058] As used herein, articles including "a" and "an" when used in a claim should be understood to mean one or more of what is claimed or described.

[0059] As used herein, "comprising" means that other steps and other ingredients which do not affect the end result can be added. The term encompasses the terms "consisting of" and "consisting essentially of."

[0060] As used herein, the terms "including," "comprising," and "containing" are intended to be non-limiting, and are interpreted to mean "having," "having," and "comprising," respectively.

[0061] As used herein, the term "free of" means that 0% of an ingredient is intentionally added to the conditioner composition, or the conditioner composition comprises 0% of an ingredient by total weight of the composition and therefore has no detectable amount of said ingredient.

[0062] As used herein, the term "substantially free" means less than 0.5%, less than 0.3%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05%, less than 0.01%, or less than an insubstantial amount of the ingredient, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0063] As used herein, "mixture" is intended to include a simple combination of substances as well as any compounds that may result from their combination.

[0064] Unless otherwise specified, all percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of the compositions of the present invention. All such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on the active level, and, therefore, do not include carriers or by-products that may be included in commercially available materials.

[0065] Unless otherwise indicated, all component or composition levels are in reference to the active portion of that component or composition and are exclusive of impurities, for example, residual solvents or by-products, which may be present in commercially available sources of such component or composition.

[0066] It should be understood that each maximum numerical limit given throughout this specification includes each lower numerical limit, as if such lower numerical limits were expressly written herein. Each minimum numerical limit given throughout this specification will include each higher numerical limit, as if such higher numerical limits were expressly written herein. Each numerical range given throughout this specification will include each narrower numerical range falling within such wider numerical range, as if such narrower numerical ranges were all expressly written herein.

[0067] Cationic surfactants

[0068] The composition of the present invention may include a cationic surfactant. In order to provide the benefits of the present invention, the cationic surfactant may be included in the composition at a level of about 0.1%, alternatively about 0.5%, alternatively about 0.8%, alternatively about 1.0%, and to about 20%, alternatively to about 10%, alternatively to about 8.0%, alternatively to about 6.0%, by weight of the composition.

[0069] The surfactant may be water-insoluble. In the present invention, "water-insoluble surfactant" means that the surfactant has a solubility in water at 25°C of alternatively less than 0.5g / 100g (excluding 0.5g / 100g) water, alternatively 0.3g / 100g water or less.

[0070] The cationic surfactant may be one cationic surfactant or a mixture of two or more cationic surfactants. Alternatively, the cationic surfactant is selected from: a mono-long chain alkylamine; a di-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt; a mono-long chain alkyl cation neutralized amino acid ester; a combination of a mono-long chain alkylamine and a di-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt; and a combination of a mono-long chain alkylamine and a mono-long chain alkyl cation neutralized amino acid ester.

[0071] In some embodiments, the conditioner composition may be substantially free or free of cationic surfactants having quaternized ammonium salts.

[0072] Mono-long chain alkylamine

[0073] The mono-long chain alkylamines may include those having one long alkyl chain having alternatively 19 to 30 carbon atoms, alternatively 19 to 24 carbon atoms, alternatively 20 to 24 carbon atoms, alternatively 20 to 22 alkyl groups. The mono-long chain alkylamines may include mono-long chain alkylamidoamines. Aliphatic primary amines, aliphatic secondary amines, and aliphatic tertiary amines may be used.

[0074] Tertiary amidoamines have an alkyl group of about 19 to about 22 carbons. Exemplary tertiary amidoamines include: behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, brassinoamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassinoamidopropyl diethylamine, brassinoamidoethyl diethylamine, brassinoamidoethyl dimethylamine. The amines of the present invention are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,275,055 to Nachtigal et al.

[0075] In some embodiments, the conditioner composition may be substantially free or free of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyl dimethylamine, eicosamidopropyl dimethylamine, eicosamidopropyl diethylamine, eicosamidoethyl diethylamine, eicosamidoethyl dimethylamine, and / or diethylaminoethyl stearamide.

[0076] These amines are used in combination with acids such as λ-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, λ-glutamic acid hydrochloride, maleic acid, and mixtures thereof; alternatively lactic acid, citric acid, in a molar ratio of amine to acid of from about 1:0.3 to about 1:2, or from about 1:0.4 to about 1:1. The conditioner composition may contain from about 0.25% to about 6% by weight of the acid, alternatively from about 0.4% to about 5% by weight of the acid, from about 0.5% to about 4% by weight of the acid, and alternatively from about 0.6% to about 3% by weight of the acid.

[0077] In some embodiments, the conditioner composition may be free of mono-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salts.

[0078] Di-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt

[0079] When used, the di-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt is alternatively combined with a mono-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt and / or a mono-long chain alkylamine salt in a weight ratio of 1:1 to 1:5, alternatively 1:1.2 to 1:5, alternatively 1:1.5 to 1:4, in view of rheological stability and conditioning benefits.

[0080] The di-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt may have two long alkyl chains of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, alternatively 16 to 24 carbon atoms, alternatively 18 to 22 carbon atoms. Such di-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt may have formula (I):

[0081]

[0082] Where R 71 , R 72 , R 73 and R 74 Both of R are selected from aliphatic groups of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, alternatively 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and alternatively 18 to 22 carbon atoms, or aromatic groups, alkoxy groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, alkylamido groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, aryl groups or alkylaryl groups having up to about 30 carbon atoms; R 71 , R 72 , R 73 and R 74 The remainder of X is independently selected from an aliphatic group having 1 to about 8 carbon atoms, or 1 to 3 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group, an alkoxy group, a polyoxyalkylene group, an alkylamido group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an aryl group or an alkylaryl group having up to about 8 carbon atoms; and X - is a salt-forming anion selected from the group consisting of halides such as chloride and bromide, C1-C4 alkyl sulfates such as methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate, and mixtures thereof. In addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, aliphatic groups may also contain ether bonds and other groups such as amino groups. Longer chain aliphatic groups (e.g., those with about 16 or more carbons) may be saturated or unsaturated. Alternatively, R 71 , R 72 , R 73 and R 74 are selected from alkyl groups having 12 to 30 carbon atoms, alternatively 16 to 24 carbon atoms, alternatively 18 to 22 carbon atoms; and R 71 , R 72 , R 73 and R 74 The remainder of the CH3 is independently selected from CH3, C2H5, C2H4OH, CH2C6H5 and mixtures thereof.

[0083] The di-long chain alkyl cationic surfactant may include, for example, dialkyl (14-18) dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.

[0084] High melting point aliphatic compounds

[0085] The composition of the present invention comprises a high melting point fatty compound. In order to provide the beneficial effects of the present invention, the high melting point fatty compound can be included in the composition at a level of about 1.0%, alternatively about 1.5%, alternatively about 2.0%, alternatively about 2.5%, even alternatively about 3%, and to about 30%, alternatively to about 15%, alternatively to about 8.0%, alternatively to about 7%, by weight of the composition.

[0086] In view of the stability of the emulsion, especially the gel network, the high melting point fatty compound may have a melting point of 25°C or higher, alternatively 40°C or higher, alternatively 45°C or higher, alternatively 47°C or higher, alternatively 49°C or higher. Alternatively, in view of easier manufacture and easier emulsification, such a melting point is at most about 90°C, alternatively at most about 80°C, alternatively at most about 75°C, and even alternatively at most about 71°C. In the present invention, the high melting point fatty compound can be used in the form of a single compound or a blend or mixture of at least two high melting point fatty compounds. When used in the form of such a blend or mixture, the above melting point means the melting point of the blend or mixture.

[0087] The high melting point aliphatic compound can be selected from fatty alcohol, fatty acid and their mixture. In addition, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that, depending on the number and position of double bonds and the length and position of the side chain, certain compounds with certain required carbon atoms may have a melting point lower than the preferred melting point above in the present invention. It is not intended that such low melting point compounds are included in this section. Non-limiting examples of high melting point compounds can be found in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary", Fifth Edition, 1993 and "CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook", Second Edition, 1992.

[0088] Among the various high melting point fatty compounds, fatty alcohols are alternatively used in the compositions of the present invention. The fatty alcohols may have from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, alternatively from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are saturated and may be straight chain alcohols or branched chain alcohols.

[0089] Fatty alcohols may include, for example, cetyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 56° C.), stearyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 58° C. to 59° C.), behenyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 71° C.), and mixtures thereof. These compounds are known to have the above melting points. However, when supplied, they typically have lower melting points because such supplied products are typically mixtures of fatty alcohols with a distribution of alkyl chain lengths where the alkyl backbone is a cetyl, stearyl, brassica, or behenyl group.

[0090] The fatty alcohol may be a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

[0091] Typically, in the mixture, the weight ratio of cetyl alcohol to stearyl alcohol is alternatively about 1:9 to 9:1, alternatively about 1:4 to about 4:1, alternatively about 1:2.3 to about 1.5:1.

[0092] In order to avoid excessive thickness for spreadability, when using higher levels of total cationic surfactant and high melting point fatty compound, the weight ratio of cetyl alcohol to stearyl alcohol of the mixture is alternatively from about 1: 1 to about 4: 1, alternatively from about 1: 1 to about 2: 1, alternatively from about 1.2: 1 to about 2: 1. It can also provide more conditioning on damaged parts of the hair.

[0093] Aqueous carrier

[0094] The composition of the present invention may include an aqueous carrier. The content and type of the carrier may be selected based on compatibility with other components and other desired characteristics of the product.

[0095] The carrier may include water and an aqueous solution of a lower alkyl alcohol. The lower alkyl alcohol may be a monohydric alcohol having 1 to 6 carbons, alternatively ethanol and isopropanol.

[0096] Alternatively, the aqueous carrier is substantially water. Deionized water is alternatively used. Water from natural sources containing mineral cations may also be used, depending on the desired characteristics of the product. Typically, the compositions of the present invention comprise from about 40% to about 99%, alternatively from about 50% to about 95%, and alternatively from about 70% to about 93%, and alternatively from about 80% to about 92% water.

[0097] Gel Network

[0098] The gel network composition can be included in the conditioner composition to provide conditioning benefits, including improved wet feel of the hair after rinsing the conditioner. As used herein, the term "gel network" refers to a lamellar or vesicular solid crystalline phase comprising at least one high melting point fatty compound (such as a fatty alcohol as described in detail below), at least one surfactant (specifically a cationic surfactant as described in detail below), and water or other suitable solvent. The lamellar or vesicular phase comprises a bilayer consisting of a first layer comprising a high melting point fatty compound and a surfactant and alternating with a second layer comprising water or other suitable solvent. Gel networks are generally further described by GM Eccleston ("Functions of Mixed Emulsifiers and Emulsifying Waxes in Dermatological Lotions and Creams", Colloids and Surfaces A: Physiochem. and Eng. Aspects 123-124 (1997) 169-182) and GM Eccleston ("The Microstructure of Semisolid Creams", Pharmacy International, Vol. 7, 63-70 (1986)).

[0099] The gel network can be formed from a cationic surfactant, a high melting point fatty compound, and an aqueous carrier.The gel network is useful for providing various conditioning benefits such as a smooth feel during application to wet hair and a soft and moisturized feel on dry hair.

[0100] Alternatively, in view of providing improved wet conditioning benefits when a gel network is formed, the cationic surfactant and the high melting point fatty compound are included at a weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the high melting point fatty compound in the range of alternatively from about 1:1 to about 1:10, alternatively from about 1:1.5 to about 1:7, alternatively from about 1:2 to about 1:6.

[0101] Alternatively, the composition of the present invention is substantially free of anionic surfactants, especially when a gel network is formed, in view of the stability of the gel network. In the present invention, "the composition is substantially free of anionic surfactants" means: the composition does not contain anionic surfactants; or, if the composition contains anionic surfactants, the content of such anionic surfactants is very low. In the present invention, if included, the total content of such anionic surfactants is alternatively 1% or less, alternatively 0.5% or less, alternatively 0.1% or less by weight of the composition. Most alternatively, the total content of such anionic surfactants is 0% by weight of the composition.

[0102] Additional components

[0103] The compositions of the present invention may contain other additional components which may be selected by those skilled in the art according to the desired properties of the final product and which are suitable for making the compositions more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or providing them with additional benefits of use. Such other additional components are generally used individually at a level of from about 0.001% to about 10%, alternatively up to about 5%, by weight of the composition.

[0104] A variety of other additional components may be formulated into the compositions of the present invention. These include: other conditioning agents such as aloe vera gel; aloe barbadensis leaf juice; kelp extract; natural oils and waxes including shea butter, safflower oil, cocoa butter, orange peel wax, olive oil, macadamia seed oil, evening primrose oil, crambe seed oil, nut oil, camelina oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, argan oil, grape seed oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, meadowfoam seed oil, neem oil, linseed oil, castor oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, beeswax, sunflower wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, bayberry wax, and soy wax; essential oils that may be used in fragrances, such as lime peel oil, lavender oil, peppermint oil, cedar oil, tea tree oil, ylang ylang oil, and coensage oil; 2000 hydrolyzed collagen available from Hormel, vitamin E available from Eisai under the trade name Emix-d, panthenol available from Roche, panthenyl ethyl ether available from Roche, hydrolyzed keratin, proteins, plant extracts and nutrients; pH adjusters such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; salts, generally speaking, such as potassium acetate and sodium chloride; colorants such as any of the FD&C or D&C dyes; fragrances; and chelating agents such as disodium EDTA; and UV and IR screeners and absorbers such as octylsalicylate; antioxidants including: rosemary, tocopherol, vitamin E, vitamin A, tea extract and hydroxyacetophenone (available under the trade name H was purchased from ); amino acids include histidine, l-arginine, etc.

[0105] Product form

[0106] The composition of the present invention may be in the form of a rinse-off product or a leave-on product, and may be formulated into a variety of product forms including, but not limited to, creams, gels, lotions, mousses, and sprays.

[0107] The conditioning compositions of the present invention are particularly suitable for use as rinse-off hair conditioners. Such compositions are alternatively used according to the following steps:

[0108] (i) applying an effective amount of a conditioning composition to the hair for conditioning the hair after shampooing; and

[0109] (ii) The hair is then rinsed.

[0110] Test Method

[0111] Bacterial Microbiological Susceptibility Test Methods

[0112] Bacterial microbial susceptibility testing is used to evaluate the antimicrobial effectiveness of preservative systems in cosmetic rinse-off conditioners.

[0113] The bacterial pool (mixture of equal volumes) of the challenge organisms used in the test consisted of strains Escherichia coli (ATCC#8739), Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC#6538), Pseudomonas aeruginosa (ATCC#9027), Burkholderia cepacia (ATCC#25416) isolated from cosmetic products, and standard solutions of Klebsiella pneumoniae, Enterobacter gergoviae, and Serratia marcescens strains. The bacterial pool was prepared to have a concentration of approximately 6 log cfu / ml-8 log cfu / ml. To start the test, 0.1 ml of the bacterial pool was added to 10.0 g of the test conditioner. The test conditioner was then incubated at 20°C-25°C for 2 days. After incubation, 1.5% polysorbate 80 (can be used as 80 purchased from Croda TM ) and 1% lecithin in Modified Letheen Broth to aid in microbial recovery / enumeration. This sample was then transferred to a 1.0 g aliquot containing 1% lecithin in multiple dilutions. 80% Modified Letheen Agar in a petri dish and incubate the agar plate at 30°C-35°C for at least 2 days. The bacterial colony forming units (cfu) are then counted and the bacterial log reduction from the initial log cfu / g challenge level is reported.

[0114] A 1 log cfu / g reduction is equal to about 90% bacterial reduction. A 2 log cfu / g reduction is equal to about 99% bacterial reduction. A 3 log cfu / g reduction is equal to about 99.9% bacterial reduction. A 4 log cfu / g reduction is equal to about 99.99% bacterial reduction. Greater log cfu / g reduction values ​​indicate greater antimicrobial robustness of the preservation system.

[0115] Fungal Microbial Susceptibility Test Methods :

[0116] The fungal microbial susceptibility test is used to evaluate the antifungal effectiveness of preservative systems in cosmetic rinse-off conditioners.

[0117] Standardized ATCC strains of yeast Candida albicans (ATCC #10231) and mold Aspergillus brasiliensis (frm. niger) (ATCC #16404) were mixed in a 1:1 (v:v) ratio and this fungus pool was used as inoculum in the test. The concentration of the fungus pool was approximately 6 log cfu / ml-8 log cfu / ml. To start the test, 0.1 ml of the fungus pool was added to 10.0 g of the test conditioner. After incubating the inoculated samples at 20°C-25°C for 2 days, the inoculated samples were incubated with 1.5% A 1.0 g aliquot of the product was neutralized with Modified Letheen Broth with 1% Tween 80 and 1% lecithin to aid in microbial recovery / enumeration. This sample at multiple dilutions was then transferred to petri dishes containing Modified Letheen Agar with 1.5% Tween 80 and the agar plates were incubated at 20°C-25°C for at least 5 days, at which time the fungal colony forming units (cfu) were then counted and the fungal log reduction from the initial log cfu / g challenge level was calculated.

[0118] A 1 log cfu / g reduction is equal to about 90% fungal reduction. A 2 log cfu / g reduction is equal to about 99% fungal reduction. A 3 log cfu / g reduction is equal to about 99.9% fungal reduction. A 4 log cfu / g reduction is equal to about 99.99% fungal reduction. Larger log cfu / g reduction values ​​indicate greater antifungal robustness of the preservation system.

[0119] Differential Scanning Calorimetry

[0120] The melting transition behavior and temperature of the gel network can be obtained using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) according to the following method. Using a TA Instruments Q2000 DSC, approximately 15 mg of the gel network premix or the final conditioner composition containing the gel network was placed in a Tzero aluminum sealed DSC pan. The sample was placed in the instrument along with an empty reference pan. The samples were analyzed using the following condition / temperature program: nitrogen purge at a rate of 50.0 mL / min; equilibration at 20.00°C; sampling interval 0.10 sec / pt; equilibration at 5.00°C; isothermal duration 1.00 min; ramp down to 80.00°C at 5.00°C / min. The resulting DSC data were analyzed using TA Instruments Universal Analysis Software.

[0121] The use of DSC to measure the melting transition behavior and temperature of gel networks is further described in T. de Vringer et al., Colloid and Polymer Science, Vol. 265, 448-457 (1987); and HM Ribeiro et al., Intl. J. of Cosmetic Science, Vol. 26, 47-59 (2004).

[0122] pH Method

[0123] First, calibrate the Mettler Toledo Seven compact pH meter. This is done by starting the pH meter and waiting 30 seconds. Then remove the electrode from the storage solution, rinse the electrode with distilled water, and clean it with a scientific cleaning wipe such as Carefully wipe the electrode. Immerse the electrode in pH 4 buffer and press the Calibrate button. Wait until the pH icon stops flashing and press the Calibrate button again. Rinse the electrode with distilled water and wipe the electrode carefully with a scientific cleaning wipe. Then immerse the electrode in pH 7 buffer and press the Calibrate button again. Wait until the pH icon stops flashing and press the Calibrate button a third time. Rinse the electrode with distilled water and wipe the electrode carefully with a scientific cleaning wipe. Then immerse the electrode in pH 10 buffer and press the Calibrate button a third time. Wait until the pH icon stops flashing and press the Measure button. Rinse the electrode with distilled water and wipe it carefully with a scientific cleaning wipe.

[0124] Immerse the electrode in the test sample and press the read button. Wait until the pH icon stops flashing and record the value.

[0125] Shear stress

[0126] The shear stress was measured by shear rate sweep conditions using a rheometer model ARG2 from TA Instruments. The geometry had a diameter of 40 mm, a cone angle of 2°C, and a gap of 49 μm. The shear rate was increased from 0 logarithmically to 1200 / s for 1 minute, and the temperature was maintained at 26.7°C. The shear stress at a high shear rate of 950 / s was measured and defined as above.

[0127] X-ray diffraction method

[0128] SAXS (Small Angle X-ray Scattering) is used to confirm the presence of a multilayer phase and WAXS (Wide Angle X-ray Scattering) is used to distinguish between Lα (liquid) and Lβ (solid) crystalline structures to verify the presence of a characteristic dispersed gel network phase of the personal conditioning composition.

[0129] d-spacing of lamellar gel networks (Lβ-substrate spacing)

[0130] Small angle x-ray scattering ("SAXS"), used to resolve periodic structures in mesophases, is essentially an x-ray diffraction technique. It is used in conjunction with conventional wide angle x-ray scattering ("WAXS") to characterize aggregate structures such as micelles, gel networks, lamellae, hexagonal and cubic liquid crystals. Different mesophases showing periodic structures can be characterized by the relative positions (d-spacings) of their reflections, as derived from the Bragg equation (d = λ / 2Sinθ), where d represents the inter-plane spacing, λ represents the wavelength of the radiation and θ represents the scattering (diffraction) angle.

[0131] The one-dimensional lamellar gel network phase is characterized by ratios of interplanar spacings d1 / d1, d1 / d2, d1 / d3, d1 / d4, d1 / d5 with values ​​of 1:2:3:4:5, etc. in the SAXS region (long-range order) and by a broad halo background with a wavelength of about 1. and One or two invariant reflections in the centered WAXS region (short range). Other mesophases (e.g. hexagonal or cubic) will have characteristically different d-spacing ratios.

[0132] SAXS data were collected with a Bruker NanoSTAR small angle x-ray scattering instrument. A microfocus Cu x-ray tube was operated at 50 kV, 0.60 mA with a 550 um ScanTex pinhole. The distance between the sample and the detector was 107.39 cm, and the detector was a Vantec2K 2-dimensional area detector. The sample was sealed in a capillary and analyzed under vacuum with an analysis time of 600 s.

[0133] The values ​​of d-spacing (Lβ-substrate spacing) of the lamellar gel networks reported here were obtained using the first-order SAXS reflections, i.e., the d1 spacing.

[0134] WAXS confirms (combined with SAXS) the presence of an Lβ gel network

[0135] Wide angle data (WAXS) were collected on a Stoe STADI-MP diffractometer. The generator was operated at 40 kV / 40 mA to power a copper anode long fine focus Cu x-ray tube. The diffractometer included an incident beam bending germanium crystal monochromator, a standard incident beam slit system, and a Mythen PSD detector. Data were collected in transmission mode over the range of 0° to 50° 2θ with a step size of 3° 2θ and 15 seconds per step.

[0136] With close The WAXS pattern of reflections combined with the lamellar reflections seen in SAXS indicates the presence of an Lβ gel network.

[0137] Example

[0138] The following are non-limiting examples of conditioner compositions described herein. It is understood that other modifications of the present invention may be made within the purview of those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention.

[0139] Unless otherwise indicated, all parts, percentages and ratios herein are by weight. Some components may be obtained from suppliers as dilute solutions. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts shown reflect the weight percentage of the added material.

[0140] The examples in Tables 2 to 11 were prepared as follows. Sodium benzoate and λ-glutamic acid were dissolved in water. The mixture was heated to 80°C. Then, a cationic surfactant and a fatty alcohol (FAOH) were added to the mixture. Next, the mixture was cooled while continuing to dissolve the cationic surfactant and fatty alcohol. Then, when the temperature was below 45°C, additional preservatives were added, followed by oils and fragrances. The composition was cooled to room temperature to prepare a conditioner composition.

[0141] Table 2 below shows Comparative Examples 1 to 4. Although these compositions contain an effective surfactant system, namely EWGVERIFIED TM , without Whole Any ingredient listed as unacceptable by the Market and Applications are classified as "risk-free", but they are not preferred by consumers.

[0142] Table 2: Comparative Examples 1 to 2

[0143]

[0144]

[0145] According to the Differential Scanning Calorimetry test method, Comparative Examples 1 to 4 all have two peaks, indicating that the gel network is not uniform and may provide poor conditioning, a poor user experience, and / or instability including a short shelf life. Figure 2 The melting transition behavior of the gel network of selected examples is shown: Examples 1 to 5 (see Table 3 below) and Comparative Examples 1 and 2. The curves were prepared according to the differential scanning calorimetry test method described herein. The DSC curves of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 both show two peaks.

[0146] In Comparative Examples 1-2, the molar ratio of BAPDMA to fatty alcohol is too high and because of the excess BAPDMA, the correct gel network is not formed to provide good conditioning and shear stress to form a consumer acceptable product.

[0147] In Comparative Examples 3-4, the molar ratio of BADPMA to fatty alcohol is too low, and not enough fatty alcohol is incorporated into the gel network because there is too little BADPMA. These examples have poor gel networks that do not provide good conditioning. In addition, the excess fatty alcohol may leave the hair with a greasy or heavy feel because too much fatty alcohol is deposited on the hair.

[0148] Tables 3 to 8 below show Examples 1 to 35, which are consumer acceptable conditioner compositions. The homogenous conditioner compositions in Tables 3 to 8 contain an effective surfactant system, namely, EWG VERIFIED TM , without Whole Any ingredient listed as unacceptable by the Market and Application is classified as "Risk-Free".

[0149] Table 3: Examples 1 to 6

[0150]

[0151]

[0152] Table 4: Examples 7 to 12

[0153]

[0154]

[0155] Table 5: Examples 13 to 18

[0156]

[0157]

[0158] Table 6: Examples 19 to 24

[0159]

[0160]

[0161] Table 7: Examples 25 to 28

[0162]

[0163] Table 8: Examples 29 to 35

[0164]

[0165]

[0166] Suppliers of Examples in Tables 2 to 8

[0167] 1. Behenylaminopropyl dimethylamine (BAPDMA) TM BD), purchased from

[0168] 2.λ-Glutamic acid: purchased from

[0169] 3. Cetyl alcohol, 95% active content, purchased from Procter &

[0170] 4. Stearyl alcohol, 97% active content, purchased from Procter &

[0171] 5. Sodium benzoate, purchased from

[0172] 6. Octanediol, purchased from Procter and

[0173] 7. SustOleo TM BA), purchased from

[0174] 8. Benzyl alcohol, purchased from

[0175] 9. Shea butter, purchased from Procter and

[0176] 10. Safflower oil (Carthamus tinctorius seed oil), purchased from Southern Cross Botanicals

[0177] 11. Argan oil (Argania spinosa kernel oil), purchased from

[0178] 12. Jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis seed oil), purchased from SouthernCross Botanicals

[0179] 13. Histidine (L-histidine), purchased from

[0180] 14. Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, purchased from Procter and

[0181] 15. Australian See Kelp Extract, purchased from Southern Cross Botanicals

[0182] According to the differential scanning calorimetry test method described herein, Examples 1 to 35 all have one melting transition peak, which indicates that the gel network is uniform and can provide good conditioning performance, a good user experience, and can be stable. Figure 2 The melting transition behaviors of the gel networks of Examples 1 to 5 are shown (Table 3) and each curve of Examples 1 to 5 has only one peak. Figure 2 As shown in Examples 1 to 5, a peak may be a single distinct peak, or it may be a group of peaks that are merged. However, Comparative Example 2 (Table 2) has more than one peak, indicating that the gel network is not uniform.

[0183] The shear stress is acceptable to consumers and is in the range of 107 Pa to 562 Pa. If the shear stress is too low or too high, it may be difficult for consumers to apply the conditioner composition throughout the hair by hand. If the shear stress is too low, the conditioner composition may drip from the hands and hair, and if the shear stress is too high, it may be difficult to spread.

[0184] The gel network d-spacing ranges from 20.8 to 26.9 for Examples 1 to 28. This d-spacing level indicates that the conditioner composition can provide good conditioning with good wet feel and good wet detangling.

[0185] Examples 1 to 35 have a molar ratio of BAPDMA to FAOH greater than or equal to 20:80 and less than or equal to 40:60. It was surprisingly found that if the molar ratio of BAPDMA to FAOH is within this range and the conditioner contains sodium benzoate, the conditioner composition has a gel network with d-spacing, which indicates good wet conditioning performance. It is believed that other salts, including sodium salicylate, sodium chloride, sodium carbonate, sodium borate, sodium acetate, sodium citrate, potassium benzoate, potassium acetate, calcium gluconate, calcium chloride, and potassium sorbate, form a gel network with appropriate d-spacing.

[0186] In Tables 9 to 11 below, microbacteria within 2 days and microfungi within 2 days were determined by the Bacteria and Fungi Microbial Susceptibility Test Method described herein. In order for the preservation system to be effective, the content of microorganisms (bacteria and fungi) needs to be undetectable, which means that the microbial reduction is greater than 99.99% within two days as determined by the Bacteria and Fungi Microbial Susceptibility Test Method. In Table 10 below, N / A means that the test was not performed.

[0187] Table 9: Comparative Examples A to F

[0188]

[0189]

[0190] Table 10: Comparative Examples G to K

[0191]

[0192]

[0193] Comparative Example A was a control and contained no preservative system. Comparative Example A did not provide adequate microbial reduction for bacteria and fungi over 2 days.

[0194] Comparative Examples B, C, and D contain 0.20 wt%, 0.25 wt%, and 0.40 wt% sodium benzoate, respectively, and these examples had undetectable bacteria levels (>99.99% reduction) within two days. However, a preservative system containing only sodium benzoate at these levels would not provide adequate fungal reduction within two days, as these examples only had about 90% reduction.

[0195] Comparative Examples E and F included a preservative system with both sodium benzoate and caprylyl glycol. These examples had undetectable bacteria levels (>99.99% reduction) within two days. The combination of sodium benzoate and caprylyl glycol improved fungal reduction within 2 days compared to Comparative Examples B, C, and D, however, detectable levels of fungi were still present and therefore the preservative systems in these examples were considered ineffective.

[0196] Comparative Example G has a preservative system containing 0.20 wt% sodium benzoate and 0.40 wt% caprylic / capric glycerides (glycerides), and this example had undetectable bacteria levels (>99.99% reduction) in two days. However, it had >90% fungal reduction in two days and was ineffective.

[0197] Similar to Comparative Examples GG, Comparative Example H had a preservative system containing 0.20 wt% sodium benzoate and 0.40 wt% glyceryl caprylate (and) glyceryl undecylenate, and this example had undetectable bacteria levels (>99.99% reduction) in two days. However, it had >90% fungal reduction in two days and was ineffective.

[0198] Comparative Example 1 contained 0.20% sodium benzoate and behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (cationic surfactant), and this example had undetectable bacteria levels (>99.99% reduction) within two days. However, it had detectable fungal levels (>99% reduction) within two days and was therefore ineffective.

[0199] Comparative Example J contained 1 wt % sodium benzoate. Figure 3 As shown, instead of a smooth, creamy conditioner, it is lumpy and grainy, which is not preferred by consumers. While not wanting to be bound by theory, it is believed that in this example, the sodium benzoate level is too high, and because sodium benzoate is a salt, it affects the filling of the gel network. For example, in this example, it is believed that some areas of the gel network may be packed too tightly, and this may result in a lumpy texture.

[0200] Comparative Example K contained 2 wt% octanediol. Figure 4 As shown, instead of a smooth, creamy conditioner, it has a thin and crystalline appearance. A conditioner with this texture may be difficult for the consumer to apply by hand and may not provide good conditioning. While not wanting to be bound by theory, it is believed that if the glycol content is too high, it acts as a solvent and disrupts the gel network.

[0201] Table 11: Examples A to E

[0202]

[0203]

[0204] Suppliers of Examples in Tables 9 to 11

[0205] 1. Sodium benzoate, purchased from

[0206] 2. Octanediol, purchased from Procter and

[0207] 3. Caprylic / capric glyceryl (STEPAN- GCC), purchased from

[0208] 4. Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Glyceryl Undecylenate ( Natural), purchased from

[0209] 5. Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride / IPA (Genamin KDMP), 80% active substance content, purchased from Clariant TM

[0210] 6. Behenylaminopropyl dimethylamine (BAPDMA) TM BD), purchased from

[0211] 7.λ-Glutamic acid: purchased from

[0212] 8. Cetyl alcohol, 95% active content, purchased from Procter &

[0213] 9. Stearyl alcohol, 97% active content, purchased from Procter &

[0214] All of the examples in Table 11 had an effective preservative system (ie, no detectable bacteria and fungi (>99.99% reduction) within 2 days) and a creamy and smooth appearance preferred by consumers. Figure 5 is a photograph of Example A, which shows the smooth and creamy appearance of the conditioner composition. These examples have 0.20 wt%-0.40 wt% sodium benzoate and 0.40 wt% caprylyl glycol, caprylic / capric glyceryl or caprylic (and) undecylenic glyceryl. The weight ratio of sodium benzoate to caprylyl glycol, caprylic / capric glyceryl or caprylic (and) undecylenic glyceryl is from about 1:2 to about 1:1.

[0215] All of the examples in Table 11 have a creamy and smooth appearance which may be preferred by consumers.

[0216] combination :

[0217] A. A hair conditioner composition, comprising:

[0218] a. Aqueous carrier;

[0219] b. Behenylaminopropyl dimethylamine (BAPDMA);

[0220] c. fatty alcohol;

[0221] d. a salt selected from the group consisting of sodium benzoate, sodium salicylate, sodium chloride, sodium carbonate, sodium borate, sodium acetate, sodium citrate, potassium benzoate, potassium acetate, calcium gluconate, calcium chloride, potassium sorbate, and combinations thereof;

[0222] wherein the molar ratio of behenamidopropyl dimethylamine to fatty alcohol is from about 3:25 to about 9:10, preferably from about 7:50 to about 4:5, more preferably from about 3:20 to about 3:4, even more preferably from about 17:100 to about 7:10, and even more preferably from about 9:50 to about 2:3;

[0223] wherein the composition comprises a homogeneous gel network;

[0224] wherein the composition comprises a d-spacing of less than 32 nm as measured according to the Lamellar Gel Network Test Method (Lβ-Substrate Spacing) described herein.

[0225] B. The hair conditioner composition according to paragraph A, further comprising an acid selected from the group consisting of l-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, l-glutamic acid hydrochloride, maleic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0226] C. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraph B, wherein the conditioner composition comprises from about 0.25 wt. % to about 6 wt. % acid, preferably from about 0.4 wt. % to about 5 wt. % acid, more preferably from about 0.5 wt. % to about 4 wt. % acid, and even more preferably from about 0.6 wt. % to about 3 wt. % acid.

[0227] D. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs A to C, wherein the composition comprises less than 2 wt. % salt, preferably less than 1.5 wt. % salt, more preferably less than 1 wt. % salt, even more preferably less than 0.8 wt. % salt, even more preferably less than 0.6 wt. % salt, and even more preferably less than 0.5 wt. % salt.

[0228] E. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs A to D, wherein the composition comprises from about 0.1 wt.% to about 0.5 wt.% salt, and preferably from about 0.2 wt.% to about 0.4 wt.% salt.

[0229] F. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs A to E, wherein the salt comprises sodium benzoate.

[0230] G. The hair conditioner composition of paragraphs A to F, comprising less than 6.75 wt. % BAPDMA, preferably less than about 6.50 wt. % BAPDMA, and more preferably less than about 6.25 wt. % BAPDMA.

[0231] H. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs A to G, comprising from about 2 wt % to about 6.7 wt % BAPDMA, preferably from about 2.2 wt % to about 6.5 wt % BAPDMA, more preferably from about 2.5 wt % to about 6.25 wt % BAPDMA, even more preferably from about 2.75 wt % to about 6 wt % BAPDMA.

[0232] I. The hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs A to H, wherein the fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, brassic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and combinations thereof.

[0233] G. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs A to I, comprising less than 8 wt% fatty alcohol, preferably less than 7.5 wt% fatty alcohol, more preferably less than 7 wt% fatty alcohol.

[0234] K. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs A to J, comprising from about 2.5 wt. % to about 9 wt. % fatty alcohol, preferably from about 3 wt. % to about 8 wt. % fatty alcohol, more preferably from about 3.25 wt. % to about 7.5 wt. % fatty alcohol, even more preferably from about 3.5 wt. % to about 7 wt. % fatty alcohol, and even more preferably from about 4 wt. % to about 6.7 wt. % fatty alcohol.

[0235] L. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs A to K, comprising a total gel network (GN) content (BAPDMA + fatty alcohol (FAOH)) of from about 0.1 mol to about 0.6 mol, preferably from about 0.2 mol to about 0.5 mol, more preferably from about 0.3 mol to about 0.4 mol.

[0236] M. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs A to L, wherein the fatty alcohol comprises stearyl alcohol and the composition comprises a molar ratio of stearyl alcohol (C18 fatty alcohol) to total FAOH of from about 1:10 to about 1:1, preferably from about 1:5 to about 9:10, more preferably from about 3:10 to about 4:5, and most preferably from about 2:5 to about 7:10.

[0237] N. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs A to M, comprising a molar ratio of acid to BAPDMA of from about 1:2 to about 7:4, preferably from about 3:5 to about 1:2, more preferably from about 7:10 to about 5:4, and even more preferably from about 4:5 to about 1.3:1.

[0238] O. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs A to N, comprising a shear stress of from about 50 Pa to about 600 Pa, preferably from about 75 Pa to about 575 Pa, more preferably from about 100 Pa to about 565 Pa, even more preferably from about 105 Pa to about 550 Pa, and even more preferably from about 125 Pa to about 450 Pa, as measured by the Shear Stress Test Method described herein.

[0239] P. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs A to O, wherein the composition is substantially free of or free of behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0240] Q. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs A to P, wherein the composition is substantially free of or free of mono-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salts.

[0241] R. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs A to Q, wherein the composition is substantially free, preferably free, of ingredients selected from the group consisting of silicones, propellants, phthalates, dyes, sulfates, formaldehyde donors, and combinations thereof.

[0242] S. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs A to R, wherein the conditioner composition comprises from about 40% to about 99% by weight of an aqueous carrier, preferably from about 50% to about 95% by weight of an aqueous carrier, more preferably from about 70% to about 93% by weight of an aqueous carrier, and even more preferably from about 80% to about 92% by weight of an aqueous carrier.

[0243] T. A hair conditioning composition according to paragraphs A to S, wherein the aqueous carrier comprises water.

[0244] U. The conditioner composition of paragraphs A to T, comprising a pH of from about 2.5 to about 5, preferably from about 3.5 to about 4.5, as measured according to the pH Test Method described herein.

[0245] V. The conditioner composition of paragraphs A to U, wherein the d-spacing according to the Lamellar Gel Network Test Method (Lβ-Substrate Spacing) described herein is less than 30 nm and preferably less than 28 nm.

[0246] W. A conditioning composition according to paragraphs A to V, wherein the d-spacing (Lβ-substrate spacing) according to the Lamellar Gel Network Test Method described herein is from about 10 nm to about 32 nm, preferably from about 15 nm to about 30 nm, more preferably from about 17 nm to about 29 nm, even more preferably from about 18 nm to about 28 nm, and even more preferably from about 20 nm to about 27 nm.

[0247] X. The conditioner composition of paragraphs A to W, wherein the conditioner composition and / or the gel network comprises one peak as measured according to the Differential Scanning Calorimetry test method described herein.

[0248] Y. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs A to X, further comprising a preservative system comprising:

[0249] a. a salt, wherein the salt comprises sodium benzoate;

[0250] b. a second composition selected from the group consisting of glycols, glycerides, and combinations thereof;

[0251] wherein the conditioner composition comprises a gel network.

[0252] Z. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraph Y, wherein the conditioner composition comprises from about 0.2 wt. % to about 1.5 wt. % of the preservative system, preferably from about 0.4 wt. % to about 1 wt. % of the preservative system, more preferably from 0.5 wt. % to about 0.8 wt. % of the preservative system, and even more preferably from about 0.6 wt. % to about 0.8 wt. % of the preservative system.

[0253] AA. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs Y to Z, wherein the preservative system comprises from about 20% to about 50% sodium benzoate by weight of the preservative system, preferably from about 25% to about 50% sodium benzoate by weight of the preservative system, more preferably from about 30% to about 50% sodium benzoate by weight of the preservative system, and even more preferably from about 30% to about 40% sodium benzoate by weight of the preservative system.

[0254] BB. A hair conditioning composition according to paragraphs Y to AA, wherein the preservative system comprises from about 0.3 wt. % to about 1.5 wt. % of the second composition, preferably from about 0.32 wt. % to about 1 wt. % of the second composition, more preferably from about 0.33 wt. % to about 0.8 wt. % of the second composition, even more preferably from about 0.34 wt. % to about 0.6 wt. % of the second composition, even more preferably from about 0.35 wt. % to about 0.5 wt. % of the second composition, even more preferably from about 0.37 wt. % to about 0.45 wt. % of the second composition, and even more preferably from about 0.38 wt. % to about 0.43 wt. % of the second composition.

[0255] CC. A hair conditioning composition according to paragraphs Y to BB, wherein the preservative system comprises from about 50% to about 80% of the second composition by weight of the preservative system, preferably from about 50% to about 75% of the second composition by weight of the preservative system, more preferably from about 50% to about 70% of the second composition by weight of the preservative system, and even more preferably from about 50% to about 67% by weight of the preservative system.

[0256] DD. The hair conditioner composition of paragraphs Y to CC, wherein the second composition comprises a diol selected from the group consisting of butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, decanediol, and mixtures thereof.

[0257] EE. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs Y to DD, wherein the glycol comprises caprylyl glycol.

[0258] FF. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs Y to EE, wherein the second preservative comprises a glyceride selected from the group consisting of caprylic glyceryl, capric glyceryl, undecylenic glyceryl, and mixtures thereof.

[0259] GG. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs Y to FF, wherein the preservative system comprises a weight ratio of sodium benzoate to the second composition of from about 1:4 to about 1:1, preferably from about 1:3 to about 1:1, more preferably from about 1:2 to about 1:1, and even more preferably from about 1:1.7 to about 1:1.

[0260] HH. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs Y to GG, wherein the level of microorganisms is undetectable within two days as measured according to the Bacterial and Fungal Microorganism Susceptibility Test Method described herein.

[0261] II. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs Y to HH, wherein the composition is substantially free of, preferably free of, preservative ingredients selected from the group consisting of: isothiazolinones including 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one and 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one (available as Kathon TM CG from Commercially available), benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, cyclohexylglycerin, parabens, and combinations thereof.

[0262] JJ. A hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs Y to II, wherein the composition is substantially free of, preferably free of, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts.

[0263] The dimensions and values ​​disclosed herein are not to be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values ​​cited. Instead, unless otherwise indicated, each such dimension is intended to represent the stated value and a functionally equivalent range around that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as "40 mm" is intended to mean "about 40 mm".

[0264] Unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited, each document cited herein, including any cross-referenced or related patent or patent application and any patent application or patent to which this application claims priority or the benefit of, is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety. The citation of any document is not an admission that it is prior art to any of the present invention disclosed or claimed herein, or an admission that it, by itself or in combination with any one or more of the references, proposes, suggests, or discloses any such invention. In addition, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this invention conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to that term in this invention shall govern.

[0265] Although specific embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. Therefore, it is intended that all such changes and modifications within the scope of the present invention be covered in the appended claims.

Claims

1. A hair conditioner composition, comprising: a. Aqueous carrier; b. 2.75% to 6% by weight of behenamidopropyl dimethylamine; c. 3 to 8 wt% of one or more fatty alcohols; wherein the molar ratio of behenamidopropyl dimethylamine to fatty alcohol is 7:50 to 4:5; and d. an anti-corrosion system, the anti-corrosion system comprising: (i) 0.1% to 0.5% by weight of the composition of sodium benzoate; and (ii) 0.3 to 1.5 wt% of caprylyl glycol, or 0.37 to 0.45 wt% of a glyceride selected from the group consisting of caprylic glyceryl, capric glyceryl, undecylenic glyceryl, and mixtures thereof; wherein the weight ratio of sodium benzoate to caprylyl glycol is 1:1.6 to 1:2; wherein the weight ratio of sodium benzoate to glyceride is 1:1; wherein the hair conditioner composition comprises a uniform gel network; wherein the hair conditioner composition comprises a d-spacing of 10 nm to 32 nm as measured by the d-spacing of the Lamellar Gel Network Test Method.

2. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, wherein the d-spacing is the Lβ-substrate spacing.

3. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, wherein the hair conditioner composition comprises 3.25 wt. % to 7.5 wt. % fatty alcohol.

4. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, wherein the hair conditioner composition comprises 3.5 wt. % to 7 wt. % fatty alcohol.

5. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, wherein the hair conditioner composition comprises 4 to 6.7 wt% fatty alcohol.

6. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, wherein the hair conditioner composition comprises less than 1% by weight of a salt selected from the group consisting of sodium salicylate, sodium chloride, sodium carbonate, sodium borate, sodium acetate, sodium citrate, potassium benzoate, potassium acetate, calcium gluconate, calcium chloride, and combinations thereof.

7. The hair conditioner composition of claim 6, wherein the hair conditioner composition comprises less than 0.8% by weight of the salt.

8. The hair conditioner composition of claim 6, wherein the hair conditioner composition comprises less than 0.6% by weight of the salt.

9. The hair conditioner composition of claim 6, wherein the hair conditioner composition comprises less than 0.5% by weight of the salt.

10. The hair conditioner composition according to claim 1, wherein the molar ratio of behenamidopropyl dimethylamine to fatty alcohol is 3:20 to 3:

4.

11. The hair conditioner composition according to claim 1, wherein the molar ratio of behenamidopropyl dimethylamine to fatty alcohol is from 17:100 to 7:

10.

12. The hair conditioner composition according to claim 1, wherein the molar ratio of behenamidopropyl dimethylamine to fatty alcohol is from 9:50 to 2:

3.

13. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, wherein the hair conditioner composition comprises a d-spacing of 15 nm to 30 nm as measured by the d-spacing of the Lamellar Gel Network Test Method.

14. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, wherein the hair conditioner composition comprises a d-spacing of 17 nm to 29 nm as measured by the d-spacing of the Lamellar Gel Network Test Method.

15. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, wherein the hair conditioner composition comprises a d-spacing of 20 nm to 27 nm as measured by the d-spacing of the Lamellar Gel Network Test Method.

16. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, wherein the one or more fatty alcohols are selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, brassic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and combinations thereof.

17. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, further comprising 0.25 wt. % to 6 wt. % of an acid; wherein the acid is selected from the group consisting of l-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, l-glutamic acid hydrochloride, maleic acid, and mixtures thereof.

18. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, wherein the hair conditioner composition further comprises 0.4 wt. % to 5 wt. % of an acid.

19. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, wherein the hair conditioner composition further comprises 0.5 wt. % to 4 wt. % of an acid.

20. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, wherein the hair conditioner composition further comprises 0.6 wt. % to 3 wt. % of an acid.

21. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, further comprising a gel network content of 0.1 mole to 0.6 mole.

22. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, further comprising a gel network content of 0.2 mole to 0.5 mole.

23. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, further comprising a gel network content of 0.3 mole to 0.4 mole.

24. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, comprising a shear stress of 75 Pa to 575 Pa according to the Shear Stress Test Method.

25. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, comprising a shear stress of 100 Pa to 565 Pa according to the Shear Stress Test Method.

26. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, comprising a shear stress of 105 Pa to 550 Pa according to the Shear Stress Test Method.

27. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, comprising a shear stress of 125 Pa to 450 Pa according to the Shear Stress Test Method.

28. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, wherein the hair conditioner composition comprises, based on the total weight of the composition, less than 0.5% of behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

29. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, wherein the hair conditioner composition comprises, based on the total weight of the composition, less than 0.5% of a mono-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt.

30. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, wherein the hair conditioner composition is free of mono-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salts.

31. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, wherein the hair conditioner composition comprises, based on the total weight of the composition, less than 0.5% of an ingredient selected from the group consisting of silicones, propellants, phthalates, dyes, sulfates, formaldehyde donors, and combinations thereof.

32. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1 comprising a pH of 2.5 to 5 as measured by the pH Test Method.

33. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1 comprising a pH of 3.5 to 4.5 as measured by the pH Test Method.

34. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1, wherein the hair conditioner composition comprises one peak as measured by the Differential Scanning Calorimetry test method.

35. A hair conditioner composition according to claim 1 wherein the preservative system comprises from 0.2% to 0.4%, by weight of the composition, of sodium benzoate.

36. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1 wherein the preservative system comprises 0.32 wt. % to 1 wt. % caprylyl glycol.

37. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1 wherein the preservative system comprises 0.33 wt. % to 0.8 wt. % caprylyl glycol.

38. The hair conditioner composition of claim 1 wherein the preservative system comprises 0.37 wt. % to 0.45 wt. % caprylyl glycol.

39. The hair conditioning composition of claim 1, wherein the microbial content is undetectable for two days as measured by the Bacterial and Fungal Microbial Susceptibility Test Method.

40. Use of a hair conditioner composition according to any preceding claim to provide conditioning benefits in terms of wet feel and wet detangling, wherein the use is for non-therapeutic purposes.

41. Use of a hair conditioner composition according to any preceding claim in the manufacture of a product for providing conditioning benefits in terms of wet feel and wet detangling.

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