A compound liquid crystal emulsifier and its application
By combining liquid crystal emulsifiers, the liquid crystal structure is regulated by using fatty alcohol acyl amino acid ester, the problem of poor stability and uniformity of liquid crystal emulsifiers is solved, and the moisturizing properties and skin feel of cosmetics are improved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202211223960.5
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Patents(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-10-08
- Publication Date
- 2025-09-02
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-10-08
AI Technical Summary
The existing liquid crystal emulsifiers are difficult to form a stable layered liquid crystal structure, and the uniformity is poor, resulting in poor moisturizing properties and skin feeling of cosmetics.
Combined liquid crystal emulsifiers are used to combine liquid crystal emulsifiers such as glucosides, glycerol fatty acid esters citrates, olive esters, phosphate esters and lecithin with fatty alcohol acyl amino acid esters ceramide emulsifiers to regulate the shape and arrangement of the liquid crystal structure, and improve the uniformity of the emulsified particle size and the number of liquid crystal structures.
It improves the integrity and uniformity of the liquid crystal structure, improves the moisturizing effect and skin feeling of cosmetics, and enhances the stability of the formula.
Smart Images

Figure CN116035937B_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to A61K, and more particularly to a compound lamellar liquid crystal emulsifier and applications thereof. Background Art
[0002] Liquid crystal emulsifiers can form an ordered liquid crystal structure, increasing its stability and reducing long-range van der Waals forces between droplets. When used in cosmetics, lamellar liquid crystal emulsifiers can improve moisturizing properties and skin compatibility. Especially when the emulsifier contains ingredients with a structure similar to ceramides in the human stratum corneum, it can provide a more nourishing feel and higher moisturizing capacity than conventional emulsifiers.
[0003] While current liquid crystal emulsifiers can form liquid crystal structures, their quantity and shape are difficult to guarantee. For example, patent CN111973490A describes a skincare product with a lamellar liquid crystal structure, including ceramide-like compounds, phytosterols, and the emulsifier glyceryl stearate, but it does not provide a liquid crystal morphology. Therefore, developing an emulsifier formula that can produce a stable liquid crystal structure is crucial.
[0004] To address the issue of insufficient lamellar liquid crystals and poor uniformity, the present invention provides a composite liquid crystal emulsifier. Compared to single-type liquid crystal emulsifiers, composite emulsifiers significantly improve the morphology, distribution, and emulsified particle size of the liquid crystals. They can be used in various skincare cosmetics to enhance moisturizing properties and provide a more nourishing feel. Summary of the Invention
[0005] In a first aspect, the present invention introduces a compound liquid crystal emulsifier, which is a composition of two components, comprising:
[0006] Component (a) comprises one or more liquid crystal emulsifiers such as glucosides, glycerol fatty acid esters, citrates, olive esters, phosphates, and lecithins.
[0007] Component (b), ceramide-like emulsifiers such as fatty alcohol acyl amino acid esters, specifically one or more of fatty alcohol acyl amino acid esters, fatty alcohol acyl amino acid diesters, and a mixture of fatty alcohol acyl amino acid esters and fatty alcohol acyl amino acid diesters.
[0008] The weight ratio of component (a) to component (b) is 50:1 to 1:50.
[0009] Examples of glucoside emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, arachidyl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, and lauryl glucoside.
[0010] Examples of glyceryl fatty acid ester citrate emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl oleate citrate, hydrogenated tallow glyceryl citrate, and glyceryl cocoate / citrate / lactate.
[0011] Examples of olive ester emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, hydrogenated myristyl olive ester, hydrogenated stearyl olive ester, decyl olive oil ester, hydrogenated decyl olive oil ester, cetearyl olive oil ester, and sorbitan olive oil ester.
[0012] Examples of phosphate emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, octyldecanol phosphate, cetyl alcohol phosphate, and isodecyl phosphate.
[0013] Examples of the lecithin emulsifier include, but are not limited to, hydrogenated lecithin and lecithin.
[0014] As a preferred technical solution of the present invention, the fatty alcohol acyl amino acid ester is selected from di-C24-28 hydroxyalkyl olive oil acyl glutamate, palmitoyl aspartic acid diethyl ester, acetylaspartic acid diethyl ester, dioctyl cystine dimethyl ester, diacetyl cystine dimethyl ester, dioctyldodecyl stearoyl glutamate, dioctyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, dihexyldecyl lauroyl glutamate, etc., preferably dioctyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate.
[0015] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a use of a compounded liquid crystal emulsifier in cosmetics. The weight percentage of the fatty alcohol acyl amino acid ester, a ceramide-like emulsifier, in the compounded liquid crystal emulsifier is 0.1 to 10% of the weight of the skin care product. The weight percentage of the compounded liquid crystal emulsifier in the skin care product is 0.1 to 20%.
[0016] As an example of a compound liquid crystal emulsifier, the weight percentage of the compound liquid crystal emulsifier in the skin care product is 0.5-10%, which can be listed as 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, and 10%.
[0017] As a preferred technical solution of the present invention, the skin care product further comprises one or more of an emollient, a preservative, a pH regulator, a moisturizer, a thickener, an ultraviolet absorber, a skin conditioner, and an emulsifier.
[0018] Examples of emollients include, but are not limited to, behenic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearic acid, cetearyl alcohol, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate, jojoba esters, sucrose cocoate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, isocetyl palmitate, glyceryl ricinoleate, tocopheryl linoleate, and naturally derived oils such as avocado (PERSEA GRATISSIMA) oil, sweet almond (PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS) oil, apricot (PRUNUS ARMENIACA) kernel oil, argania spinosa (ARGANIA SPINOSA) kernel oil, oil palm (ELAEIS GUINEENSIS) kernel oil, olive (OLEA EUROPAEA) fruit oil, olive (OLEA EUROPAEA) shell oil, grape (VITIS VINIFERA) seed oil, sunflower (HELIANTHUS) seed oil. ANNUUS (Jojoba) Seed Oil, SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (Jojoba) Seed Oil, ORBIGNYA OLEIFERA (Babassu) Seed Oil, CAMELLIA JAPONICA (Camellia) Seed Oil, MACADAMIATERNIFOLIA (Macadamia) Seed Oil, TRITICUM VULGARE (Wheat) Germ Oil, ROSA CANINA (Rosewood) Fruit Oil, ASTROCARYUM MURUMURU (Murmuru) Seed Butter, SHOREA ROBUSTA (Salt) Seed Butter, BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (Shea Butter), COPERNICIA CERIFERA (Carnauba) Wax, EUPHORBIACERIFERA (Candelilla) Wax, Beeswax, Lanolin. In one embodiment, the emollient accounts for 5-30% by weight of the skin care product, and examples thereof include 5%, 10%, 12%, 14%, 16%, 18%, 20%, 25%, 28%, and 30%.
[0019] Examples of preservatives include, but are not limited to, sodium benzoate, phenoxyisopropyl alcohol, benzalkonium chloride, laralonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, methylparaben, isopropylparaben, propylparaben, isobutylparaben, butylparaben, chlorphenesin, sorbic acid, potassium sorbate, dehydroacetic acid, salicylic acid, and caprylhydroxamic acid.
[0020] Examples of pH adjusters include, but are not limited to, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine, citric acid, sodium citrate, disodium hydrogen phosphate, and succinic acid.
[0021] Examples of moisturizing agents include, but are not limited to, glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isopentyl glycol, hexylene glycol, erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, mannitol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, polyethylene glycol, polybutylene glycol, polyacrylic acid, sodium polyglutamate, betaine, allantoin, trehalose, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, sodium pyrrolidone hydroxy acid, lactate, lactate, glycerol polyethers, and polysaccharides. In one embodiment, the moisturizing agent accounts for 5 to 20% by weight of the skin care product, and examples thereof include 5%, 8%, 10%, 12%, 14%, 16%, 18%, and 20%.
[0022] Examples of antioxidants include, but are not limited to, sodium metabisulfite, pentaerythritol tetrakis-di-tert-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate, p-hydroxyacetophenone, butylated hydroxytoluene, tocopheryl acetate, and ascorbic acid.
[0023] Examples of thickeners include, but are not limited to, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, acrylic acid (ester) copolymers, xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, and carbomers.
[0024] Examples of skin conditioning agents include, but are not limited to, squalane, ceramide, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, pearl powder, arbutin, ferulic acid, vitamin C, salicylic acid, benzoin, ergothioneine, resveratrol, polypeptides, ectoine, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, plant extracts such as avocado tree (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit fat extract, white willow (SALIX ALBA) bark extract, grape (VITIS VINIFERA) seed extract, ginseng (PANAX GINSENG) extract, Magnolia officinalis bark extract, turmeric (CURCUMA LONGA) root extract, basil (OCIMUM BASILICUM) flower / leaf extract, purslane (PORTULACA OLERACEA) extract, osmanthus (OSMANTHUSFRAGRANS) flower extract, millet (PANICUM MILIACEUM) seed extract, soapberry (SAPINDUS MUKOROSSI) fruit extract, PANAX GINSENG root extract, fermentation products such as bifid yeast fermentation product filtrate, THERMUS THERMOPHILLUS fermentation product, galactosidase-like bacteria fermentation product filtrate, Bacillus fermentation product.
[0025] Examples of co-emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, dodecanol, n-tetradecanol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.
[0026] Currently commonly used liquid crystal emulsifiers such as component (a) can form liquid crystal structures, but it is difficult to obtain more lamellar liquid crystals with a cross-shaped structure, and the uniformity is poor. The present invention adds ceramide-like emulsifiers such as fatty alcohol acyl amino acid esters. While the amino acid ester structure and conventional liquid crystal emulsifiers interact intermolecularly, the fatty acid chain is used to regulate the shape and arrangement of the liquid crystal structure. The resulting liquid crystal structure is regular, which is also beneficial for improving the uniformity of the emulsified particle size and increasing the number and arrangement of lamellar liquid crystals with a cross-shaped structure. In addition, the compound liquid crystal emulsifier introduced in the present invention is used in skin care products to improve the skin feel while improving the formula stability. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0027] Figure 1 These are images (A1-A6) of the liquid crystal structure of the ceramide-like emulsifier in Example 1 observed under a polarizing microscope.
[0028] Figure 2 These are images of the liquid crystal structure of the ceramide-like emulsifier and glucosides in Example 2 observed under a polarizing microscope (B1, B2).
[0029] Figure 3 These are images of the liquid crystal structure of the ceramide-like emulsifier and glyceryl stearate citrate compound in Example 3 observed under a polarizing microscope (C1, C2).
[0030] Figure 4 These are images of the liquid crystal structure of the ceramide-like emulsifier and olive ester compound in Example 4 observed under a polarizing microscope (D1, D2).
[0031] Figure 5 These are images of the liquid crystal structure of the compound of the ceramide-like emulsifier and the lecithin emulsifier in Example 5 observed under a polarizing microscope (E1, E2). DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0032] The following examples illustrate the effects of the ceramide-like emulsifiers of the present invention and the application of compounded emulsifiers in cosmetics. It should be noted that those skilled in the art would be able to make various modifications and improvements to the synthesis method without departing from the principles of the present invention, and these modifications and improvements should also be considered within the scope of protection of the present invention.
[0033] Example 1 A skin care product formula containing a ceramide-like emulsifier
[0034] A skin care product containing a ceramide-like emulsifier (component (b)) was prepared using the formula shown in Table 1. The emulsified particle size, liquid crystal quantity, and liquid crystal morphology were observed under a microscope. The results are shown in Table 1. The Maltese cross image corresponding to the liquid crystal structure is shown in Figure 1 .
[0035] Table 1
[0036]
[0037] Table 1
[0038]
[0039]
[0040] Example 2 A skin care product formula containing a composite emulsifier containing a glucoside component
[0041] A skin care product containing the compound emulsifier of the present invention (component (a) is a glucoside) was prepared using the formula shown in Table 2. The emulsified particle size, liquid crystal quantity, and liquid crystal morphology were observed under a microscope, and the effect of the addition of a ceramide-like emulsifier on skin feel was compared and analyzed. The results are shown in Table 2. The Maltese cross image corresponding to the liquid crystal structure is shown in Figure 2 .
[0042] Table 2
[0043]
[0044]
[0045] Example 3 A skin care product formula containing a compound emulsifier containing a glycerol fatty acid ester citrate component A skin care product containing the compound emulsifier of the present invention (component (a) is a glycerol fatty acid ester citrate) was prepared using the formula shown in Table 3. The emulsified particle size, liquid crystal quantity, and liquid crystal morphology were observed under a microscope, and the effect of the addition of a ceramide-like emulsifier on skin feel was compared and analyzed. The results are shown in Table 3. The Maltese cross image corresponding to the liquid crystal structure is shown in Figure 3 .
[0046] Table 3
[0047]
[0048]
[0049] Example 4 A skin care product formula containing a composite emulsifier containing an olive ester component
[0050] A skin care product containing the compound emulsifier of the present invention (component (a) is an olive ester) was prepared using the formula shown in Table 4. The emulsified particle size, liquid crystal quantity, and liquid crystal morphology were observed under a microscope, and the effect of the addition of a ceramide-like emulsifier on skin feel was compared and analyzed. The results are shown in Table 4. The Maltese cross image corresponding to the liquid crystal structure is shown in Table 4. Figure 4 .
[0051] Table 4
[0052]
[0053] Example 5 A skin care product formula containing a compound emulsifier containing a lecithin component
[0054] A skin care product containing the compound emulsifier of the present invention (component (a) is lecithin) was prepared using the formula shown in Table 5. The emulsified particle size, liquid crystal quantity, and liquid crystal morphology were observed under a microscope, and the effect of the addition of a ceramide-like emulsifier on skin feel was compared and analyzed. The results are shown in Table 5. The Maltese cross image corresponding to the liquid crystal structure is shown in Figure 5 .
[0055] Table 5
[0056]
[0057] The test results show that by adding the ceramide-like emulsifier provided by the present invention and the conventional liquid crystal emulsifier, the integrity of the lamellar liquid crystal and the uniformity of the emulsified particle size can be effectively improved, the number of liquid crystal structures can be increased, and the skin feel can be improved.
Claims
1. A compound liquid crystal emulsifier, characterized in that: The raw materials are composed of liquid crystal emulsifier and ceramide-like emulsifier; The liquid crystal emulsifier is one or both of a glucoside emulsifier and an olive ester emulsifier; The glucoside emulsifier is Montanov 202, which contains arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside, glucose, and water; Olive ester emulsifiers are 1000, whose ingredients include cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate; The ceramide-like emulsifier is dioctyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate; The weight ratio of the liquid crystal emulsifier to the ceramide-like emulsifier is 2:
1.
2. A use of the compound liquid crystal emulsifier according to claim 1, characterized in that: Can be used in skin care products.
3. The use of the compound liquid crystal emulsifier according to claim 2, characterized in that: The weight percentage of the compound liquid crystal emulsifier in the skin care product is 0.1-20%.
4. The use of the compound liquid crystal emulsifier according to claim 2, characterized in that: The weight percentage of the ceramide-like emulsifier in the skin care product is 0.1-10%.
5. The use of the compound liquid crystal emulsifier according to claim 2 or 4, characterized in that: The skin care product may further comprise one or more of an emollient, a preservative, a pH regulator, a moisturizer, a thickener, an ultraviolet absorber, a skin conditioning agent, an emulsifier, and an active ingredient.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Facial mask with after-sun repair function and preparation method of facial mask
CN106619437A
Skin care cosmetic of liquid crystal structure
CN111973490A
Sweet potato stem and leaf after-sun repair mask and preparation method thereof
CN112618453A