Rough spinning cashmere elastic fabric, preparation method thereof and cashmere product

Abstract

The application discloses a rough spinning cashmere elastic fabric, a preparation method thereof and a cashmere product, and relates to the technical field of textiles. The rough spinning cashmere elastic fabric is prepared by taking rough spinning cashmere single yarn as warp yarn and taking cashmere antistatic elastic yarn with a linear density of 34Nm / 2-38Nm / 2 as weft yarn. The preparation raw material of the weft yarn and the finishing process are optimized, the warp and weft control, the weft density, the reasonable configuration of the finishing length and width shrinkage ratio are controlled, the natural finishing and multiple preshrinking are fully utilized, the fabric elasticity is in a natural state, the detection standard of the elastic fabric is met, and the stability is good. The problems of fabric color yellowing, hand feeling roughening and strength deterioration under the condition of high-temperature setting are avoided.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to the technical field of textiles, in particular to a worsted cashmere stretch fabric, a preparation method thereof and a cashmere product. BACKGROUND

[0002] At present, there are many types of worsted cashmere fabrics, most of which are naturally elastic, and there are very few slightly elastic worsted cashmere fabrics on the market, which are mainly used for overcoats and tops. The worsted cashmere stretch fabric is a pure cashmere double-sided stretch suiting, the weft yarn is a core-spun yarn of cashmere and spandex, and a worsted spinning process is adopted. The yarn is a worsted yarn and is generally a single yarn, which is relatively thick, the fabric is relatively heavy, and the fabric elasticity is in a slightly elastic state. The fabric has a soft luster, a smooth hand feeling and excellent wrinkle resistance, and is generally only suitable for making overcoats.

[0003] The worsted cashmere stretch fabric of the prior art has the following disadvantages:

[0004] (1) The worsted cashmere stretch fabric of the prior art increases high-temperature heat setting on the basis of the finishing of conventional cashmere fabrics, which is a key link to ensure the stability of the fabric.

[0005] (2) The weft yarn of the worsted cashmere stretch fabric of the prior art in China is a worsted cashmere core-spun yarn, the core yarn is 40D spandex, and a worsted spinning process is adopted. Because it is a worsted spinning process, the elasticity of the yarn needs to consider the physical indicators of the yarn and the influence of the subsequent finishing, and the yarn has been subjected to the yarn steaming process, so the elasticity of the yarn is not very large.

[0006] (3) The fabric is heavy, the production process is long, resources are wasted seriously, the elastic elongation and plastic deformation rate are very small, and the worsted cashmere stretch fabric does not reach the minimum standard of stretch elasticity of color-spun spandex fabric, so the range of application of the fabric is relatively narrow.

[0007] (4) The worsted cashmere stretch fabric has been subjected to the dyeing process. Although the fabric can present colorful colors through dyeing, the cashmere is generally damaged during dyeing, and the dyeing process also causes environmental pollution and resource waste.

[0008] (5) The worsted cashmere stretch fabric of the prior art in China has serious static adsorption in a dry environment.

[0009] In view of this, the present application is proposed. SUMMARY

[0010] The present application aims to provide a worsted cashmere stretch fabric, a preparation method thereof and a cashmere product, and to prepare a product with good elasticity and high stability without high-temperature heat setting.

[0011] The present application is implemented as follows:

[0012] In a first aspect, the present application provides a method for preparing a coarse spinning cashmere elastic fabric, comprising:

[0013] The warp yarn is a coarse spinning cashmere single yarn, and the weft yarn is a cashmere anti-static elastic yarn with a linear density of 34 Nm / 2-38 Nm / 2, and the treated fabric is formed by interweaving the warp yarn and the weft yarn.

[0014] The treated fabric is subjected to finishing;

[0015] The raw materials for preparing the cashmere anti-static elastic yarn include cashmere 85-90 parts, elastic fiber 10-15 parts, and conductive fiber 0.5-2 parts by mass fraction.

[0016] The finishing process includes pre-shrinking before and after washing, and the pre-shrinking before washing is controlled to have a length shrinkage of 3-5% and a width shrinkage of 5-7%, and the pre-shrinking after washing is controlled to have a length shrinkage of 1.5-2.0% and a width shrinkage of 2.0-3.5%.

[0017] In the finishing process, the overall length shrinkage is 7-13%, the width shrinkage is 24-35%, and the weight loss is 11-17%.

[0018] In an optional embodiment, the elastic fiber in the raw materials for preparing the cashmere anti-static elastic yarn is a composite fiber formed by 35D-45D polyamide and 15D-25D spandex.

[0019] Preferably, the weft yarn is a semi-worsted yarn, the single and double yarn twist is (800-850)*(450-500) T / M, the single and double yarn twist factor is (135-140)*(110-115), the single yarn is Z twist, and the double yarn is S twist.

[0020] In an optional embodiment, the cashmere in the raw materials for preparing the cashmere anti-static elastic yarn is at least one of blue cashmere, purple cashmere, and Albas white cashmere.

[0021] Preferably, the fiber fineness of the cashmere is 13.5-15.5 μm, and the length is 28-35 mm.

[0022] In an optional embodiment, the warp yarn is a coarse spinning cashmere anti-static single yarn, the linear density of the warp yarn is 18 Nm / 1-20 Nm / 1, and the twist factor is 127-130.

[0023] In an optional embodiment, when the treated fabric is a single-layer fabric, the warp yarn and the weft yarn are interwoven according to 2 / 2 twill weave to form the treated fabric.

[0024] When the fabric to be treated is a double-layer fabric, the weaving method uses at least one of the plain double-layer binding warp weave and the 2 / 2 twill double-layer binding warp weave.

[0025] In an optional embodiment, during the preparation of the fabric to be treated, the machine parameters are controlled as follows: the machine density is 168*181 roots / 10 cm to 288*306 roots / 10 cm, the weaving shrinkage is 5.9% to 7.0% in width shrinkage, 6.1 to 7.3% in width shrinkage, the total warp number of the machine is 3562 roots to 7090 roots, the reed number is 42# to 48#, and all are forward threading;

[0026] Preferably, the weight of the finished fabric is controlled to be 340 g / m to 850 g / m, the weft / warp density ratio is 0.85 to 0.90:1, and the finished density is controlled to be 238*195 roots / 10 cm to 471*360 roots / 10 cm.

[0027] In an optional embodiment, for the milling process, the finishing steps include the following steps performed in sequence: raw repair, first pre-shrinking, heavy washing, light shrinking, washing and softening, drying, steaming, light raising, shearing, steaming and brushing, second pre-shrinking, and steaming;

[0028] In the process of first pre-shrinking, the length shrinkage is controlled to be 3% to 5%, and the width shrinkage is controlled to be 5% to 7%; in the process of second pre-shrinking, the length shrinkage is controlled to be 1.5% to 2.0%, and the width shrinkage is controlled to be 2.0% to 3.5%;

[0029] Preferably, in the processes of first pre-shrinking and second pre-shrinking, steam relaxation is used, the steam pressure is 5 bar to 6 bar, the overfeed is 7% to 9%, and the cloth speed is 10 m / min to 15 m / min.

[0030] In an optional embodiment, for the short-order fabric process, the finishing steps include the following steps performed in sequence: raw repair, first pre-shrinking, washing, shrinking, washing, dehydration, drying, raising, shearing, fruit raising, wet brushing, polishing, shearing, wet brushing, softening and wet setting, drying, second pre-shrinking, polishing, shearing, polishing, steaming and brushing, third pre-shrinking, and steaming;

[0031] In the process of first pre-shrinking, the length shrinkage is controlled to be 3% to 5%, and the width shrinkage is controlled to be 5% to 7%; in the processes of second pre-shrinking and third pre-shrinking, the length shrinkage is controlled to be 1.5% to 2.0%, and the width shrinkage is controlled to be 2.0% to 3.5%;

[0032] Preferably, in the processes of first pre-shrinking, second pre-shrinking, and third pre-shrinking, steam relaxation is used, the steam pressure is 5 bar to 6 bar, the overfeed is 7% to 9%, and the cloth speed is 10 m / min to 15 m / min.

[0033] Secondly, the present invention provides a coarse cashmere elastic fabric, which is prepared by any of the preparation methods described in the foregoing embodiments.

[0034] Thirdly, the present invention provides a cashmere product prepared from the coarse-spun cashmere elastic fabric described in the foregoing embodiments.

[0035] This invention offers the following advantages: By using coarse cashmere single yarn as warp and cashmere antistatic elastic yarn with a density of 34Nm / 2 to 38Nm / 2 as weft, and by optimizing the raw materials for weft yarn preparation and the finishing process, through the rational configuration of warp and weft yarn control, warp and weft density, and the length and width shrinkage rates after finishing, the invention fully utilizes natural finishing and multiple pre-shrinking processes to ensure that the fabric's elasticity remains in a natural state, meeting the testing standards for elastic fabrics and exhibiting good stability. This avoids problems such as yellowing, roughening of the hand feel, and decreased strength of the fabric under high-temperature setting conditions. Attached Figure Description

[0036] To more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention, the accompanying drawings used in the embodiments will be briefly introduced below. It should be understood that the following drawings only show some embodiments of the present invention and should not be regarded as a limitation on the scope. For those skilled in the art, other related drawings can be obtained based on these drawings without creative effort.

[0037] Figure 1 The image shows an undyed cashmere item.

[0038] Figure 2 This is a picture of a knitted piece made of yarn.

[0039] Figure 3 Here is a picture of the prepared fabric.

[0040] Figure 4 This is a picture of the finished fabric.

[0041] Figure 5 The specific parameters for preparing cashmere elastic single-layer felting fabric in Example 1 are as follows;

[0042] Figure 6 The cashmere elastic single-layer felted fabric prepared in Example 1;

[0043] Figure 7 The specific parameters for preparing the cashmere elastic double-layer felting fabric in Example 2 are as follows;

[0044] Figure 8 The cashmere elastic double-layer felted fabric prepared in Example 2;

[0045] Figure 9 The specific parameters for preparing cashmere elastic double-layer short twill in Example 3;

[0046] Figure 10 The cashmere elastic double-layer short coat is prepared according to the embodiment 3.

[0047] It should be noted that, Figures 1-10 reflects the whole process of the invention, raw materials (refer to Figure 1 ) - yarn (refer to Figure 2 ) - gray cloth (refer to Figure 3 ) - finished fabric (refer to Figure 4 ) - three types of finished fabric (refer to Figure 6 , Figure 8 , Figure 10 ). DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0048] In order to make the purpose, technical scheme and advantages of the embodiments of the present application clearer, the technical scheme in the embodiments of the present application will be described clearly and completely below. If the specific conditions are not specified in the embodiments, the conventional conditions or the conditions recommended by the manufacturer are used. If the reagents or instruments used are not specified by the manufacturer, they are all conventional products that can be purchased in the market.

[0049] The embodiment of the present application provides a preparation method of a carded cashmere elastic fabric, which comprises the following steps:

[0050] S1, spinning

[0051] The raw materials used are shown in Figure 1 , and the warp yarn and weft yarn are formed by spinning as shown in Figure 2 for subsequent machine forming of the fabric.

[0052] The warp yarn is a carded cashmere single yarn, which can be a commercially available carded cashmere antistatic single yarn. The linear density of the warp yarn is 18 Nm / 1-20 Nm / 1 (such as 18 Nm / 1, 19 Nm / 1, 20 Nm / 1, etc.), and the twist factor is 127-130 (such as 127, 128, 129, 130, etc.).

[0053] The weft yarn is a cashmere antistatic elastic yarn with good evenness and a linear density of 34 Nm / 2-38 Nm / 2. The inventors have optimized the preparation raw materials and linear density of the warp yarn. Specifically, the linear density of the weft yarn can be 34 Nm / 2, 35 Nm / 2, 36 Nm / 2, 37 Nm / 2, 38 Nm / 2, etc.

[0054] The raw materials for preparing the cashmere anti-static stretch yarn include 85-90 parts of cashmere, 10-15 parts of elastic fiber and 0.5-2 parts of conductive fiber in terms of mass fraction. The conductive fiber is added in the undyed cashmere to improve the anti-static performance of the material. The selection of the material of the elastic fiber, the selection of the fabric organization and the post-finishing process fully utilize the natural properties of various fibers. The design and process fully release the internal stress of the fibers, and the elasticity of the elastic fiber is naturally preserved. The final undyed anti-static coarse spinning cashmere fabric fully meets the detection standard of stretch fabric, and there is no instability problem in the clothes trial production.

[0055] Specifically, in the raw materials for preparing the cashmere anti-static stretch yarn, the cashmere can be 85 parts, 86 parts, 87 parts, 88 parts, 89 parts, 90 parts, etc., the elastic fiber can be 10 parts, 11 parts, 12 parts, 13 parts, 14 parts, 15 parts, etc., and the conductive fiber can be 0.5 parts, 1.0 parts, 1.5 parts, 2.0 parts, etc.

[0056] In some embodiments, in the raw materials for preparing the cashmere anti-static stretch yarn, as shown in Figure 1 The cashmere is selected from at least one of green cashmere, purple cashmere and albaska white cashmere, and can be any one or several of the above. The raw materials are not dyed, and the three kinds of cashmere can be mixed according to certain proportions as raw materials according to the color requirement, as shown in Figure 1 The fiber fineness of the cashmere is 13.5-15.5 μm, such as 13.5 μm, 14 μm, 15 μm, 15.5 μm, etc., and the length can be 28-35 mm, such as 28 mm, 30 mm, 32 mm, 35 mm, etc. The cashmere used is fine and long, and is not affected by dyeing. Therefore, the characteristics of diamond cashmere are fully utilized, and the evenness of the half-spun yarn is much better than that of the coarse-spun yarn.

[0057] In some embodiments, in the raw materials for preparing the cashmere anti-static stretch yarn, the elastic fiber is a composite fiber formed by 35D-45D (such as 35D, 40D, 45D, etc.) of polyamide and 15D-25D (such as 15D, 17D, 20D, 23D, 25D, etc.) of spandex. The composite fiber can fully utilize the advantages of the two fibers, and the yarn has great elasticity without the need of the yarn steaming process.

[0058] In some embodiments, the weft yarn is a half-spun yarn. The half-spun yarn is a process between spinning and weaving, and the specific textile process can refer to the prior art.

[0059] Further, the weft yarn is appropriately increased in twist, and the twist of the single and double yarns is (800-850)*(450-500) T / M, i.e. the single yarn is 800-850 T / M, and the double yarn is 450-500 T / M; the twist factor of the single and double yarns is (135-140)*(110-115), i.e. the single yarn is 135-140, and the double yarn is 110-115; the single yarn is Z twist, and the double yarn is S twist, which is the conventional understanding.

[0060] It should be noted that, in addition to the above spinning parameter control, the spinning process can adopt a conventional spinning process, and the process flow is: oiling and wooling - worsted combing wool - gilling (first, second and third) - drawing (first and second) - roving - spinning - bobbin winding - doubling - doubling - packaging, and the specific operation process can refer to the spinning process and flow in ZL 2004 1 0066146.2.

[0061] S2, weaving

[0062] The treated fabric is formed by interweaving the warp yarn and the weft yarn, and can be a single-layer fabric or a double-layer fabric, such as shown in Figure 3 .

[0063] Through the combination of two yarn counts and the reasonable configuration of single and double-layer structures, when the treated fabric is a single-layer fabric, the warp yarn and the weft yarn are interwoven according to 2 / 2 twill structure to form the treated fabric. When the treated fabric is a double-layer fabric, at least one of the flat double-layer binder warp structure and the 2 / 2 twill double-layer binder warp structure is used, the flat double-layer binder warp structure is selected for a double-layer fabric that is not thick and heavy, and the 2 / 2 twill double-layer binder warp structure is selected for a double-layer fabric that is thick and heavy.

[0064] In some embodiments, in the process of preparing the treated fabric, the machine parameters are controlled as follows: the machine density is 168*181 roots / 10cm-288*306 roots / 10cm, the weaving shrinkage is 5.9%-7.0% in width shrinkage, 6.1-7.3% in width shrinkage, the total warp number on the machine is 3562 roots-7090 roots, the reed number is 42#-48#, and all are forward penetration, and the penetration process is used. It is appropriate to control the machine parameters in the above range to obtain uniform fabric. The machine density of the weaving machine is generally 7% smaller than the weft density, and the finished product warp density is generally 20% larger than the weft density.

[0065] Specifically, the machine density of 168*181 roots / 10cm means that the number of warp yarns per 10cm is controlled to be 168, and the number of weft yarns is 181.

[0066] It should be noted that the finishing adopts a light shrinking process, and the above machine parameters are determined according to the parameters of the finished product according to experience, the weight of the finished product is controlled to be 340g / m~850g / m, the weft / warp density ratio is controlled to be 0.85~0.90:1, the finished product density is controlled to be 238*195 roots / 10cm~471*360 roots / 10cm, and the parameters of the finished product are preferably within the above range, and the weaving density is increased compared with the conventional cashmere fabric of the same weight, and the product can be a full-category single or double-layer elastic fabric.

[0067] Specifically, the weight of the finished product can be 340g / m, 400g / m, 500g / m, 600g / m, 700g / m, 800g / m, 850g / m, etc., the weft / warp density ratio can be 0.85:1, 0.86:1, 0.87:1, 0.88:1, 0.89:1, 0.90:1, etc. The finished product density can be 238*195 roots / 10cm, that is, the number of warp roots per 10cm is 238, and the number of weft roots is 195.

[0068] S3, finishing

[0069] The fabric to be treated is subjected to finishing, and the finishing adopts a light shrinking process, so as to drive the weft to shrink naturally with the warp shrinking, and the finished product width is not forcibly widened, the width is in a natural state by reasonably designing the shrinkage, the finishing length and width shrinkage rate, and the weft elasticity of the fabric is fully released. Overall, in the process of finishing, the overall length shrinkage rate is 7%~13%, the width shrinkage rate is 24%~35%, and the weight loss is 11%~17%.

[0070] It should be noted that the finishing does not go through the heat setting of 170~185℃, which avoids the problems of color yellowing, rough hand feeling and strength deterioration of the fabric under the condition of high temperature setting. Through the organic combination of high-quality raw materials, conductivity, no dyeing, structure and finishing, the application range of cashmere fabric is greatly expanded, and the fabric becomes unique in the coarse spinning cashmere fabric.

[0071] Specifically, the overall length shrinkage rate can be 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, etc., the overall width shrinkage rate can be 24%, 26%, 28%, 30%, 33%, 35%, etc., and the weight loss can be 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, etc.

[0072] The steps of the finishing include: pre-shrinking before and after washing, the length shrinkage rate is controlled to be 3%~5% and the width shrinkage rate is controlled to be 5%~7% during the pre-shrinking before washing, and the length shrinkage rate is controlled to be 1.5%~2.0% and the width shrinkage rate is controlled to be 2.0%~3.5% during the pre-shrinking after washing. The pre-shrinking process before and after washing is controlled, so that the elasticity and stability of the product are relatively ideal.

[0073] Specifically, the control of the length shrinkage in the pre-shrinking process before washing can be 3%, 4%, 5%, etc., and the control of the width shrinkage can be 5%, 6%, 7%, etc.; the control of the length shrinkage in the pre-shrinking process after washing can be 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2.0%, etc., and the control of the width shrinkage can be 2.0%, 3.0%, 3.5%, etc.

[0074] In some embodiments, for the milling process, the steps of the finishing process include sequentially performing: raw repair—first pre-shrinking—heavy washing—light shrinking—cleaning and softening—drying—steaming—light raising—shearing—steaming—second pre-shrinking—steaming—product inspection. The pre-shrinking process is introduced on the basis of the existing process, and the textile process parameters are adjusted to achieve the elasticity and stability of the product to meet the requirements without high-temperature setting. In the process of first pre-shrinking, the control of the length shrinkage is 3% to 5%, and the control of the width shrinkage is 5% to 7%; in the process of second pre-shrinking, the control of the length shrinkage is 1.5% to 2.0%, and the control of the width shrinkage is 2.0% to 3.5%.

[0075] In some embodiments, for the short-order process, the steps of the finishing process include sequentially performing: raw repair—first pre-shrinking—washing—shrinking—washing—dehydration—drying—raising—shearing—fruit raising—wet brushing—polishing—shearing—wet brushing—softening and wet setting—drying—second pre-shrinking—polishing—shearing—polishing—steaming—third pre-shrinking—steaming—product inspection. In the process of first pre-shrinking, the control of the length shrinkage is 3% to 5%, and the control of the width shrinkage is 5% to 7%; in the processes of second pre-shrinking and third pre-shrinking, the control of the length shrinkage is 1.5% to 2.0%, and the control of the width shrinkage is 2.0% to 3.5%.

[0076] It should be noted that in the processes of first pre-shrinking, second pre-shrinking, first pre-shrinking, second pre-shrinking and third pre-shrinking, steam relaxation is used, the steam pressure is 5 bar to 6 bar, the overfeed is 7% to 9%, and the cloth speed is 10 meters per minute to 15 meters per minute. Specifically, the steam pressure can be 5.0 bar, 5.5 bar, 6.0 bar, etc.; the overfeed generally refers to positive overfeed, which can also be negative, the overfeed of pre-shrinking is all positive, which means that the incoming cloth speed is greater than the outgoing cloth speed, and the fabric on the screen presents a folded state, the size of the overfeed is closely related to the organization and tightness of the fabric, and the influence of the overfeed on the pre-shrinkage rate can be referred to the article number: 1672-545X(2021)05-0014-04, and the actual operation can have an overfeed of 7%, 8%, 9%, etc.; the cloth speed refers to the conveying rate of the cloth, which can be 10 meters per minute, 11 meters per minute, 12 meters per minute, 13 meters per minute, 14 meters per minute, 15 meters per minute, etc.

[0077] The pre-shrinking is the part that the inventor specially adjusts and improves, and the whole process is formed by the adjustment and control of the other steps. The principle and operation steps of each operation part except pre-shrinking can refer to the existing technology, such as the Research and Application of Cashmere and Blended Short Order Wool Overcoat Fabric Processing Technology. Some parts are described in detail as follows:

[0078] (1) Pre-shrinking: KD pre-shrinking machine in Italy is used, steam relaxation mode, steam pressure is 5-6 bar, open oscillation "2", overfeed 7%-9%, cloth speed 12 m / min, no tension. According to the data comparison before and after pre-shrinking, the pre-shrinking before washing changes the length shrinkage by 3%-5% and the width shrinkage by 5%-7%, which shows that the shrinkage change of double-layer fabric is larger than that of single-layer fabric, and the shrinkage change of fabric with higher weaving density is smaller. The pre-shrinking after washing is mainly to release the tension and structure change of the fabric caused by all the previous finishing processes; the fabric is further relaxed before setting to eliminate the internal stress of the fabric, and the change of the fabric before and after pre-shrinking is 1.5%-2% in length shrinkage and 2.0%-3.5% in width shrinkage. It can be seen that although the process processing changes the internal and external structure of the fabric, the change of the last pre-shrinking is smaller than that of the first pre-shrinking because the natural and gentle finishing of each process is relatively soft.

[0079] (2) Heavy washing: N113 B is used. Compared with the conventional washing before shrinking, the conventional washing is to clean the dirt and impurities in the fabric, make the fibers loose, and make the fabric easier to shrink. The general washing process is 35-40℃ for 20 minutes, and the bath ratio is 1:30-1:40. The heavy washing is divided into 30 minutes of cleaning with washing agent and 10 minutes of cleaning with water, a total of 40 minutes of washing.

[0080] (3) Light shrinking: CIMI in Italy is used. Compared with shrinking or heavy shrinking, the shrinking box pressure and roller pressure are smaller than the conventional pressure by about 0.5-1 bar, and the length shrinkage and width shrinkage are also much smaller than the conventional shrinkage. The fabric surface is in a state of small pile and has not reached the obvious felting state.

[0081] (4) Light raising: Compared with the conventional raising, the raising in the process is steel wire raising, and lafer in Italy is used. There are double-knitting lafer and single-knitting lafer, and the principles are completely the same. The difference is that the double-knitting can raise both sides of the fabric at the same time, and the single-knitting can only raise one side at a time. The light raising is relatively soft with small raising force and small tension, and the pile on the surface of the fabric does not need to be dense.

[0082] (5) Wet brushing: the equipment is TMT of Italy, having both wet brushing and padding functions, when wet brushing, the height of the steel wire brush roller and the brown brush roller is adjusted according to the process requirements, generally about 1.5 cm, and the front and rear pressure rollers are adjusted according to the water content of the fabric at different stages, generally the pressure is about 3-5 bar. Wet brushing of the suiting is to eliminate and compensate the burr marks after burring and the partially uncombed wool. For the non-suiting style, padding and softener treatment can be carried out on the equipment.

[0083] (6) Steaming: the equipment is KD of Italy, a non-continuous steaming machine. The main function is to shape, eliminate the fabric creases, make the fabric flat and the wool conformable, and the fabric has good wearability. The main parameters are steam supply time, cold extraction time, steam temperature and pressure 5-6 bar. The parameters can be flexibly adjusted according to the fabric style and customer requirements. The milling fabric is relatively short and the pressure is smaller than the short suiting. For the same fabric, if the pressure is large and the time is long, the fabric is relatively stiff.

[0084] It should be noted that the super high temperature heat setting in the prior art is a key link to ensure the stability of the fabric, and the elasticity of the elastic yarn has been fully considered in the present application, and the long shrinkage and the wide shrinkage have been properly matched, the purpose is to ensure the elasticity and keep the fabric in a natural finishing state, release the internal stress of the fabric and maintain the stability of the elasticity through multiple pre-shrinking, ironing and steaming, avoid the problems of damage to the super high temperature fiber, strength deterioration and color yellowing. The characteristics of cashmere are retained through soft finishing, and the elasticity and high quality of the fabric are also stable. The finishing process is not limited by color and style, and is suitable for all styles of cashmere fabric, and the key is to reduce the long time operation of the fabric in the wet heat state.

[0085] The present application provides a kind of rough spinning cashmere elastic fabric, as shown in Figure 4 The rough spinning cashmere elastic fabric prepared by the above preparation method maintains the naturalness of the fabric, maximizes the natural elasticity, further highlights the elasticity of the rough spinning cashmere fabric on the basis of ensuring the softness and smoothness of the cashmere fabric, and the comfort and randomness of the clothes are ideal. According to the test, the product indicators meet the requirements of the line standard and the national standard, and the tensile elastic performance also meets the tensile elastic standard of the color woven spandex fabric.

[0086] It should be noted that the rough spinning cashmere elastic fabric provided by the present application can be combined with finishing during preparation, so that the style can be smooth, suiting, suiting, fluffy, water pattern and other different styles. Different styles of fabric adopt different finishing processes and processes. The fabric used for sports wear is soft and has good recovery. The body of the fabric used for a suit is relatively stiff. The coat is thick and smooth. All the weft elastic fabrics have wide application range.

[0087] The application provides a cashmere product prepared from the above-mentioned worsted cashmere elastic fabric, which can be a sportswear, a coat, a suit, a scarf and the like.

[0088] The features and performances of the application are further described in detail in combination with the following examples.

[0089] Example 1

[0090] The embodiment provides a preparation method of the worsted cashmere elastic fabric, which comprises the steps S1-S3 in the above-mentioned introduction, and specific parameters are as follows Figure 5 .

[0091] Parameter explanation in the finishing process:

[0092] The style of the fabric is a worsted fine-made smooth style, and the surface pile produced by the shrinking is little, in order to fully ensure the hand feeling of the fabric, light raising is performed, and then cutting is performed.

[0093] The specific parameters are as follows:

[0094] Pre-shrinking: in the process of the first pre-shrinking, the length shrinkage is 3%, and the width shrinkage is 5%; in the process of the second pre-shrinking, the length shrinkage is 1.5%, and the width shrinkage is 2.0%.

[0095] Heavy washing: the temperature is 40 DEG C, and the time is 20 minutes more than the conventional time, and the total time is 40 minutes.

[0096] Light shrinking: the shrinking box pressure and the roller pressure are all smaller than the conventional pressure by about 1 bar, about 0.5 bar, the length shrinkage of the shrinking is 3%, and the width shrinkage is 5%.

[0097] Light raising: the lafer single-xinlin raising machine is adopted, the raising force is small, the tension is small, the raising is close to zero point, and only slight pile is needed.

[0098] Steaming: the equipment is an Italian KD non-continuous steaming machine, the steam feeding time is 8 minutes, the cold air extraction time is 5 minutes, the steam temperature is 110 DEG C, and the pressure is 5.5 bar.

[0099] The prepared product is as shown in the following table. Figure 6 .

[0100] Example 2

[0101] The embodiment provides a preparation method of the worsted cashmere elastic fabric, which comprises the steps S1-S3 in the above-mentioned introduction, and specific parameters are as follows Figure 7 .

[0102] The style of the fabric is soft and small velvet style. The main difference from Example 1 is that the weave structure has changed from single layer in Example 1 to double layer, and the float length is also shorter than Example 1, but because of the double layer weave, the structure is looser than Example 1, so the shrinkage after pre-shrinking is larger than Example 1. The process flow is the same as Example 1, but the parameters are different from Example 1, which are as follows:

[0103] Pre-shrinking: In the first pre-shrinking process, the control shrinkage is 5% in length and 7% in width; in the second pre-shrinking process, the control shrinkage is 2% in length and 3.5% in width.

[0104] Washing: Temperature 40°C, time 20 minutes longer than normal, total 40 minutes.

[0105] Light shrinking: The shrinking box pressure and roller pressure are about 0.51 bar, about 1.0 bar, the shrinking length is 4% and the width is 7%.

[0106] Light raising: Using lafer double tin raising machine, reverse roller raising force 1, forward roller raising force 0.5, tension 2.0, ratio 1, the nap is slightly larger.

[0107] Steaming: The equipment is an Italian KD non-continuous steaming machine. Steam time 10 minutes, cold time 2 minutes, steam temperature 110°C, pressure 5.0 bar.

[0108] The product obtained is as shown in Figure 8 .

[0109] Example 3

[0110] This example provides a method for preparing a coarse-spun cashmere stretch fabric, which includes the steps of S1-S3 in the above introduction, and the specific parameters are as follows Figure 9 .

[0111] The fabric is a double-layer short-order wool style, and the process flow is longer. The main difference from Example 1 and Example 2 is that the shrinking felt is serious, the raising is full and thick, the number of ironing and cutting is large, and the final appearance effect is short, dense and straight. The specific parameters are as follows:

[0112] Pre-shrinking: In the first pre-shrinking process, the control shrinkage is 4% in length and 6% in width; in the second pre-shrinking process, the control shrinkage is 2% in length and 3% in width; in the third pre-shrinking process, the control shrinkage is 1.5% in length and 2.0% in width.

[0113] Washing: Temperature 40°C, time 20 minutes.

[0114] Shrinking: Shrinkage box pressure 1.5-1.8 bar, roller pressure 2.0-2.5 bar, about 1.0 bar, shrinking length 15% and width 10%.

[0115] Wire raising: lafer double tin raising machine, tin speed 100 revolutions per minute, reverse needle roller raising force 2.5-3.5, forward needle roller raising force 1.5-2.0, tension 3.0, cloth speed 12 m / min.

[0116] Cutting: lafer double knife cutting machine, knife distance 2.8-3.4, cloth speed 10 m / min.

[0117] Glazing: tiger run glazing machine, with hair glazing straight as standard.

[0118] Steaming: Italian KD, non-continuous steaming machine. Steam time 15 min, cold time 5 min, steam temperature 110 DEG C, pressure 5.0 bar.

[0119] The product prepared is shown in Figure 10 .

[0120] From the aspect of finishing, compared with the pure cashmere double-sided smooth woolen cloth and its preparation method (CN101694036B) of the prior art, the prior art uses high-temperature heat setting, and the present application does not need.

[0121] Compared with examples 1-2, the process flow of example 3 is long, and each process needs multiple and repeated processing, but all finishing processes are moderate.

[0122] The products obtained in examples 1-3 are tested for performance, and the test results all meet the standards, only the results are slightly different, and a comprehensive test result is shown in Tables 1 and 2.

[0123] Table 1 Product fabric detection index

[0124]

[0125]

[0126] Table 2 Product tensile property test results

[0127]

[0128] It can be seen that, under the premise of not performing high-temperature heat setting, the fabric has good elasticity and stability by controlling the weaving parameters and the finishing parameters.

[0129] The above is only a preferred embodiment of the present application, and is not used to limit the present application. For those skilled in the art, the present application can have various modifications and changes. Any modification, equivalent replacement, improvement, etc. made within the spirit and principle of the present application shall be included in the protection scope of the present application.

Claims

1. A process for the preparation of a rough spun cashmere stretch fabric, characterized by, The application relates to a method for processing a cashmere fabric. The warp yarn is made of a thick cashmere anti-static single yarn, the linear density of the warp yarn is 18Nm / 1-20Nm / 1, and the twist factor is 127-130; the weft yarn is made of a cashmere anti-static elastic yarn with a linear density of 34Nm / 2-38Nm / 2, and the treated fabric is formed by interweaving the warp yarn and the weft yarn; The treated fabric is subjected to post-finishing; The raw material for preparing the cashmere anti-static elastic yarn comprises 85-90 parts of cashmere, 10-15 parts of elastic fiber and 0.5-2 parts of conductive fiber in terms of mass fraction; The elastic fiber is a composite fiber formed by 35D-45D polyamide and 15D-25D spandex; The post-finishing step comprises pre-shrinking before and after scouring; the pre-shrinking before scouring is controlled to have a length shrinkage of 3-5% and a width shrinkage of 5-7%; the pre-shrinking after scouring is controlled to have a length shrinkage of 1.5-2.0% and a width shrinkage of 2.0-3.5%; In the post-finishing process, the overall length shrinkage is 7-13%, the width shrinkage is 24-35%, and the weight loss is 11-17%; When the treated fabric is a single-layer fabric, the warp yarn and the weft yarn are interwoven according to 2 / 2 twill weave to form the treated fabric; When the treated fabric is a double-layer fabric, the weaving mode adopts at least one of plain double-layer binding warp weave and 2 / 2 twill double-layer binding warp weave.

2. The production method according to claim 1, characterized by, In the raw material for preparing the cashmere anti-static elastic yarn, the weft yarn is semi-worsted yarn, the single and double yarn twist is (800-850)*(450-500)T / M, the single and double yarn twist factor is (135-140)*(110-115), the single yarn is Z twist, and the double yarn is S twist.

3. The method of claim 2, wherein, In the raw material for preparing the cashmere anti-static elastic yarn, the cashmere is selected from at least one of green cashmere, purple cashmere and Albas white cashmere; The fiber fineness of the cashmere is 13.5-15.5mu m, and the length is 28-35mm.

4. The method of claim 1, wherein, In the process of preparing the treated fabric, the following machine parameters are controlled: the machine density is 168*181-288*306 roots / 10cm, the weaving shrinkage is 5.9-7.0% in width and 6.1-7.3% in length, the total warp number is 3562-7090, the reed number is 42-48#, and all the reeds are forwardly threaded; The weight of the finished fabric is controlled to be 340-850g / m, the weft and warp density ratio is 0.85-0.90:1, and the finished density is controlled to be 238*195-471*360 roots / 10cm.

5. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that, For the shrunken fabric process, the post-finishing step comprises the following steps in sequence: raw repairing, primary pre-shrinking, heavy scouring, light shrinking, cleaning and softening, drying, steaming, light raising, shearing, steaming and brushing, secondary pre-shrinking and steaming; In the primary pre-shrinking process, the length shrinkage is controlled to be 3-5%, and the width shrinkage is controlled to be 5-7%; in the secondary pre-shrinking process, the length shrinkage is controlled to be 1.5-2.0%, and the width shrinkage is controlled to be 2.5-3.5%. The first pre-shrinking and the second pre-shrinking are both carried out by steam relaxation, the steam pressure is 5bar-6bar, the overfeed is 7%-9%, and the cloth speed is 10m / min-15m / min.

6. The method of claim 1, wherein, For the short-order woolen process, the finishing step includes the following steps in sequence: raw finishing, first pre-shrinking, washing, shrinking, washing, dehydration, drying, raising, shearing, fruit raising, wet brushing, ironing, shearing, wet brushing, soft wet setting, drying, second pre-shrinking, ironing, shearing, ironing, steaming, third pre-shrinking, and steaming; In the first pre-shrinking, the length shrinkage is controlled to be 3%-5%, and the width shrinkage is controlled to be 5%-7%; in the second pre-shrinking and the third pre-shrinking, the length shrinkage is controlled to be 1.5%-2.0%, and the width shrinkage is controlled to be 2.0%-3.5%; The first pre-shrinking, the second pre-shrinking, and the third pre-shrinking are all carried out by steam relaxation, the steam pressure is 5bar-6bar, the overfeed is 7%-9%, and the cloth speed is 10m / min-15m / min.

7. A knitted stretch fabric of carded cashmere, characterized in that, Prepared by the preparation method in any one of claims 1-6.

8. A cashmere product, characterized in that, Prepared from the worsted cashmere stretch fabric in claim 7. Prepared from the worsted cashmere stretch fabric in claim 7.

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