Composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: (i) at least one first surfactant chosen from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters having a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units; (ii) at least one second surfactant which is different from the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester as defined above and for which the HLB at a temperature of 25°C is < 15; (iii) at least one saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol; (iv) at least one emollient; and (v) at least 1.5 wt.% of colored pigments relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials comprising the application to the skin of said composition.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular, it relates to compositions for use with skincare and / or cosmetic keratin materials. The invention also relates to non-therapeutic methods for using skincare and / or cosmetic keratin materials. Background Technology

[0002] The commitment to developing formulations for skin care and / or makeup, and / or lips, is perpetual.

[0003] As a protective and exchange barrier against the environment, the skin is both strong and fragile. It may lose its flexibility and reduce its water retention capacity, leading to dry skin.

[0004] It is known that the stratum corneum or corneal layer, which is the outermost region of the epidermis, is most involved in moisturizing the skin.

[0005] Located at the interface with the external environment, its function is particularly to delay excessive moisture loss from deeper layers of the epidermis. The stratum corneum also protects against mechanical aggressors. It also forms the first line of defense against UV radiation.

[0006] It is known that increased dry skin is frequently observed with age; however, such dry skin can also occur in younger individuals. This is because dry skin is a physiological condition that can exist in younger individuals without any pathological cause, or at least without an obvious pathological cause. Many external factors can cause dry skin or worsen an already dry skin condition. Among these factors are harsh climatic conditions, solar radiation, or exposure to certain chemical agents or treatments. Therefore, it is desirable to produce products for hydrating skin.

[0007] In addition, to achieve the desired cosmetic effect, a larger amount of pigment is sometimes incorporated into compositions used for skin care and / or makeup. However, it is difficult to obtain stable cosmetic compositions containing a large amount of pigment.

[0008] Therefore, it remains necessary to formulate compositions for skin care and / or cosmetic purposes that provide satisfactory cosmetic and hydrating effects while being stable. Invention Overview

[0010] The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate such compositions having the desired properties as described above.

[0011] Specifically, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to formulate stable compositions for the care and / or cosmetic purposes of the skin, which can provide desired cosmetic effects and hydration.

[0012] Therefore, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for care and / or cosmetic keratin materials in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising:

[0013] (i) at least one first surfactant selected from polyglycerol fatty acid esters having a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2-10 glycerol units;

[0014] (ii) at least one second surfactant, which is different from the polyglycerol fatty acid ester as defined above, and whose HLB < 15 at a temperature of 25°C;

[0015] (iii) at least one saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol;

[0016] (iv) at least one emollient; and

[0017] (v) at least 1.5 wt.% of a colored pigment relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] The compositions of the present invention are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Therefore, the compositions comprise a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed fatty phase.

[0019] In the context of this application, "stable composition" means that the pigment contained therein is uniformly dispersed in the composition.

[0020] The inventors have discovered that the compositions of the present invention have a layered structure or a layered structured phase, such that the pigments contained therein are uniformly dispersed in the composition.

[0021] The inventors further discovered that the layered structure or layered structured phase is formed by a combination of the following substances: (i) at least one first surfactant selected from polyglycerol fatty acid esters having a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2-10 glycerol units; (ii) at least one second surfactant that is different from the polyglycerol fatty acid ester as defined above and has an HLB < 15 at a temperature of 25°C; and (iii) at least one saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol.

[0022] The compositions of the present invention can provide good cosmetic effects (i.e., coverage) and hydration.

[0023] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for using keratin materials for care and / or cosmetic purposes, comprising applying a composition according to a first aspect of the present invention to the keratin material.

[0024] Other advantages of the present invention will become more apparent when reading the following description and embodiments. Brief description of the attached diagram

[0026] By way of example only, embodiments of the invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

[0027] Figure 1 A photograph of the composition of Invention Example 1 (IE.1) taken using a polarizing microscope is shown. Invention Details

[0029] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention pertains. Where the definitions of terms in this specification conflict with the meanings commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention pertains, the definitions described herein shall apply.

[0030] In the following text, and unless otherwise specified, the upper and lower limits of the numerical range are included within the range, especially in expressions such as “between… and…” and “ranging from… to…”.

[0031] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" as used in this specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0032] Throughout this application, the term "comprising / including" should be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, or unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising / including" also discloses embodiments in which no features other than those specifically mentioned (i.e., "consisting of the specifically mentioned features") are present.

[0033] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​representing quantities of ingredients, etc., used in the specification and claims should be understood to be modified by the term "about". Therefore, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that can be varied as needed for the desired purpose.

[0034] For the purposes of this invention, the term "keratin material" is intended to encompass human skin and mucous membranes, such as the lips. Facial skin is of particular interest according to this invention.

[0035] Unless otherwise specified, all percentages in this invention refer to weight percentages.

[0036] According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for use as a skincare and / or cosmetic keratin material in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising:

[0037] (i) at least one first surfactant selected from polyglycerol fatty acid esters having a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2-10 glycerol units;

[0038] (ii) at least one second surfactant, which is different from the polyglycerol fatty acid ester as defined above, and whose HLB < 15 at a temperature of 25°C;

[0039] (iii) at least one saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol;

[0040] (iv) at least one emollient; and

[0041] (v) at least 1.5 wt.% of a colored pigment relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] Polyglycerol fatty acid esters

[0043] According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one first surfactant selected from polyglycerol fatty acid esters having a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2-10 glycerol units.

[0044] The polyglycerol fatty acid esters may be selected from monoesters, diesters, and trimers of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids comprising 10-22 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid.

[0045] Polyglycerol fatty acid esters may be selected from PG2 decanoate, PG2 didecanoate, PG2 tridecanoate, PG2 caprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 laurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate, PG3 decanoate, PG3 didecanoate, PG3 tridecanoate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 laurate, PG3 dilaurate. PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 distearate, PG3 tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3 oleate, PG3 dioleate, PG3 trioleate, PG4 decanoate, PG4 didecanoate, PG4 tridecanoate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 laurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 distearate, PG4 tristearate, PG4 Isostearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG4 triisostearate, PG4 oleate, PG4 dioleate, PG4 trioleate, PG5 decanoate, PG5 didecanoate, PG5 tridecanoate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 laurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilaurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 distearate, PG5 tristearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 triisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 dioleate, PG5 trioleate, PG6 decanoate, PG6 didecanoate, PG6 tridecanoic acid Ester, PG6 octanoate, PG6 dioctanoate, PG6 trioctanoate, PG6 laurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6 stearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 tristearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 triisostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleate, PG10 decanoate, PG10 didecanoate, PG10 tridecanoate, PG10 octanoate, PG10 dioctanoate, PG10 trioctanoate, PG10 laurate, PG10 dilaurate, PG10 trilaurate, PG10 myristate,PG10 dimyristic acid ester, PG10 trimyristic acid ester, PG10 stearate, PG10 distearate, PG10 tristearate, PG10 isostearate, PG10 diisostearate, PG10 triisostearate, PG10 oleate, PG10 dioleate, and PG10 trioleate.

[0046] More preferably, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is selected from polyglycerol C10-C22 fatty acid esters having a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2-10 glycerol units, with or without a sugar moiety, for example:

[0047] - Polyglycerol monolaurate containing 2-10 glycerol units,

[0048] - Polyglycerol mono(iso)stearate containing 2-10 glycerol units, - Polyglycerol distearate containing 2-10 glycerol units

[0049] - Polyglycerol monooleate containing 2-10 glycerol units,

[0050] - Polyglycerol dioleate containing 2-10 glycerol units, and

[0051] - Polyglycerol monodecanoate containing 2-10 glycerol units.

[0052] Even more preferably, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is selected from polyglycerol distearate having a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2-10 glycerol units, or having or not having a sugar moiety.

[0053] As an example of a polyglycerol distearate having a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2-10 glycerol units, polyglycerol-3 distearate may be mentioned, for example, by BASF under the name Products sold by TGI.

[0054] Preferably, if present, the sugar portion is derived from, for example, sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose, or methyl glucose.

[0055] As an example of a polyglycerol distearate having a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2-10 glycerol units and a sugar moiety, methyl glucose-polyglycerol-3 distearate may be mentioned, for example, the product sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Tego-Care 450.

[0056] More preferably, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is selected from polyglycerol-3 distearate and methylglucose-polyglycerol-3 distearate.

[0057] In a preferred embodiment, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester used is methylglucose-polyglycerol-3-distearate, which has the following schematic formula:

[0058]

[0059] Advantageously, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.% to 15 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 wt.% to 8 wt.%, and more preferably from 1 wt.% to 5 wt.%.

[0060] Unlike polyglycerol fatty acid esters as defined above, and with a surface activity of HLB < 15 at 25°C. Sexual agents According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one second surfactant, which is different from the polyglycerol fatty acid ester as defined above, and has an HLB < 15 at a temperature of 25°C.

[0061] The HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value is defined according to Griffin's method in J. Ploughshare. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (Vol. 5), pp. 249-256. In particular, the "HLB" value refers to the ratio of hydrophilic to lipophilic groups in the dispersant and also relates to the dispersant's solubility. Dispersants with lower HLB values ​​are more soluble in oils (lipophilic materials) and are more suitable for use in water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions.

[0062] Preferably, the second surfactant is selected from nonionic surfactants.

[0063] More preferably, the second surfactant is selected from C12-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol, fatty acid esters of dehydrated sorbitol, and oxyethylene (OE) fatty alcohols containing fewer than 10 oxyethylene (OE) units.

[0064] C12-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol

[0065] The C12-C24 fatty acids used in fatty acid esters of glycerol can be unsaturated or saturated acids, such as stearic acid, oleic acid, and palmitic acid.

[0066] Examples of C12-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol include glycerol laurate, glycerol oleate, glycerol stearate, glycerol palmitate, glycerol myristate, glycerol arachidate, glycerol benzyl ester, and mixtures thereof.

[0067] As commercial products, glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Tegin M, may be mentioned; glyceryl laurate, such as the product sold by Hiils under the name Imwitor 312.

[0068] Preferably, the C12-C24 fatty acid ester of glycerol used is selected from the C16-C22 fatty acid ester of glycerol. More preferably, the C12-C24 fatty acid ester of glycerol used is glyceryl stearate.

[0069] Fatty acid esters of dehydrated sorbitol

[0070] Optionally, the fatty acid esters of dehydrated sorbitol are oxidized olefinically, preferably oxyethyleneized.

[0071] More specifically mentioned surfactants of this type include C12-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitol, such as (INCI name) sorbitol isostearate, sorbitol laurate, sorbitol monostearate, sorbitol stearate, sorbitol sesquioleate, and sorbitol trioleate; ethylene-oxygenated C12-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitol, such as (INCI name) polysorbate 60, polysorbate 65, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 85, PEG-20 sorbitol isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitol peroleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] As a commercial product of oxidized olefinic dehydrated sorbitol fatty acid esters, polysorbate 60 may be mentioned, for example, by Croda under the trade name TWEEN. TM Products sold by 60-LQ-(MV).

[0073] Oxyethylated fatty alcohols containing fewer than 10 OE units

[0074] Oxyethylated fatty alcohols containing fewer than 10 OE units may contain 1 to 9 OE units, and are preferably selected from oxyethylated derivatives of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched (preferably straight-chain) C8-C30 (and preferably C12-C22) fatty alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleocetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, betaine alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0075] As an oxyethylene fatty alcohol containing fewer than 10 OE units, oxyethylene fatty alcohols containing 2-8, preferably 2-6 OE units are preferred, such as the addition product of ethylene oxide and lauryl alcohol, such as lauryl alcohol 2OE (CTFA name: lauryl alcohol polyether-2); the addition product of ethylene oxide and stearyl alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol 2OE (CTFA name: stearyl alcohol polyether-2); the addition product of ethylene oxide and decanol, such as decanol 3OE (CTFA name: decanol polyether-3), decanol 5OE (CTFA name: decanol polyether-5); the addition product of ethylene oxide and cetyl alcohol, such as cetyl alcohol 5OE (CTFA name: cetyl alcohol polyether-5); and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Even more preferably, the oxyethylene fatty alcohol to be used is an oxyethylene C12-C22 fatty alcohol containing 2-4 OE units, and still more preferably those containing 2 OE units.

[0077] Preferably, the second surfactant is selected from C16-C22 fatty acid esters of glycerol, ethylene-oxygenated dehydrated sorbitol C12-C22 fatty acid esters, and ethylene-oxygenated C12-C22 fatty alcohols containing 2-4 OE units.

[0078] Advantageously, relative to the total weight of the composition, the presence of a second surfactant, which differs from the polyglycerol fatty acid esters as defined above and has an HLB < i5 at a temperature of 25°C, ranges from 0.1 wt.% to 20 wt.%, preferably 0.5 wt.% to 15 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 wt.% to 10 wt.%.

[0079] Saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohols

[0080] According to a first aspect, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol.

[0081] For the purposes of this invention, the saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol is straight-chain. Preferably, the fatty alcohol contains 14-22 carbon atoms.

[0082] The fatty alcohols suitable for use in this invention are preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof; they are preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

[0083] As the most particularly suitable agent for use in this invention, cetyl alcohol can be used, for example, products sold under the following names: 16 / 98F and 16 / 98P, sold by Ecogreen Oleochemicals; 16. Sold by Evonik Goldschmidt; 16. Sold by Cognis; 1698, sold by VVF company; 1698P, sold by Oxiteno; Cetyl Alcohol 98% Min, sold by EmeryOleochemicals; 16 (98%), sold by Godrej Industries; 16-98, sold by Sasol; 6098, sold by Kao Company and 16. Sold by Aegis Chemical Company.

[0084] As the most particularly suitable for use in this invention, stearyl alcohols, for example those sold under the following names, may be used: 18. Sold by Evonik Goldschmidt; 18 / 98F and 18 / 98P, sold by Ecogreen Oleochemicals; 18. Sold by Cognis. 8098, sold by Kao Corporation; 18. Sold by Aegis Chemical Company; 18-98, sold by Sasol Company and 45, sold by Nihon Yushi Co., Ltd.

[0085] Cetearyl alcohol, which is most particularly suitable for use in this invention, can be used, for example, those sold under the following names: 68 / 50F and 68 / 50P, sold by Ecogreen Oleochemicals; O OR and O OR Flakes, sold by Cognis; 1618C50P, sold by Oxiteno. 16-18EN, sold by Sasol; Alcohol Cetoestearilico 50 / 50, sold by Industria Quimica DelCentro; 30CK, sold by New Japan Chemical Co., Ltd.; Cetylstearyl Alcohol 50:50, sold by Evonik Goldschmidt Co., Ltd. 6850, sold by Kao Company; 1618 (50:50), sold by VVF company and 161850:50OR, sold by Godrej Industries.

[0086] Advantageously, the amount of saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol present relative to the total weight of the composition ranges from 0.1 wt.% to 20 wt.%, preferably 0.3 wt.% to 10 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 wt.% to 8 wt.%.

[0087] Moisturizer

[0088] According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one emollient.

[0089] Emollients hydrate the keratin base and provide a glossy appearance. Emollients are known to those skilled in the art. See, for example, the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Volume 4 (9th edition, 2002), more particularly the disclosure of emollients on pages 2930-2936. By reference to the disclosure of the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Volume 4, pages 2930-2936, which is hereby incorporated.

[0090] Emollients that can be used in the compositions of the present invention include, without limitation, polyhydroxy compounds such as biosaccharide gum, mannose, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, and glycerin; glycol ethers, such as monopropylene glycol alkyl (C1-C4) ethers, dipropylene glycol alkyl (C1-C4) ethers, and tripropylene glycol alkyl (C1-C4) ethers; diethylene glycol and triethylene glycol; carnauba wax; beeswax; candelilla wax; ceresin; paraffin wax; rice bran wax; microcrystalline wax; polyethylene wax; mineral oil; jojoba oil; almond oil; castor oil; sesame oil; squalane; butylene glycol dicaprylic acid / didecanoate; shea butter; and mixtures thereof.

[0091] Advantageously, the emollient is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt.% to 40 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 25 wt.%, more preferably from 3 wt.% to 20 wt.%.

[0092] pigment

[0093] According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention contains at least 1.5 wt.% of a colored pigment.

[0094] The term “colored pigment” should be understood to mean colored inorganic (mineral) particles or organic particles that are insoluble in a liquid organic phase and are intended to color and / or opaque the composition and / or the deposits produced by the composition.

[0095] Pigments can be selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0096] Pigments can be selected from monochrome pigments, lakes, and pigments with optical effects (such as iris pigments and mother-of-pearl).

[0097] Mineral pigments can be selected from metal oxide pigments, such as chromium oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow, red), titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide and zirconium oxide, chromium hydroxide, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine, iron blue, synthetic fluorophlogopite, metal powders (e.g., aluminum powder and copper powder), and mixtures thereof.

[0098] Organic lakes are organic pigments formed by dyes adhering to a substrate.

[0099] Lakes (also known as organic pigments) can be selected from the following materials and mixtures thereof:

[0100] - Cochineal red;

[0101] - The following organic pigments: azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigo dyes, xanthan dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes, or fluorane dyes.

[0102] Among the organic pigments that may be specifically mentioned are those known by the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Purple No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6;

[0103] - Organic lakes can be insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, or titanium salts of acid dyes, such as azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigo dyes, oxalate dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes, or fluorane dyes, which may contain at least one carboxylic acid group or sulfonic acid group.

[0104] Organic lakes can also be loaded onto organic carriers, such as rosin or aluminum benzoate.

[0105] Among organic lakes, those known by the following names are particularly noteworthy: D&C Red No. 2 aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 3 aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 4 aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 6 aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 6 barium lake, D&C Red No. 6 barium / strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 potassium lake, D&C Red No. 7 aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 7 barium lake, D&C Red No. 7 calcium lake, D&C Red No. 7 calcium / strontium lake, D&C... Red 7 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red 8 Sodium Lake, D&C Red 9 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red 9 Barium Lake, D&C Red 9 Barium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red 9 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red 10 Sodium Lake, D&C Red 19 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red 19 Barium Lake, D&C Red 19 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red 21 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red 21 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red 22 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red 27 Aluminum Lake, D&C... Red 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium Lake, D&C Red 27 Barium Lake, D&C Red 27 Calcium Lake, D&C Red 27 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red 28 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red 30 Lake, D&C Red 31 Calcium Lake, D&C Red 33 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red 34 Calcium Lake, D&C Red 36 Lake, D&C Red 40 Aluminum Lake, D&C Blue 1 Aluminum Lake, D&C Green 3 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange 4 Aluminum Lake D&C Orange No. 5 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No. 5 Zirconium Lake, D&C Orange No. 10 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No. 17 Barium Lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Zirconium Lake, D&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D&C Yellow No. 7 Zirconium Lake, D&C Yellow No. 10 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, and FD&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake.

[0106] Pigments may also be fluorinated, hydrophobic, or hydrophilic, with hydrophobic treatment being preferred.

[0107] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from silicones, such as polymethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, alkoxysilane, and perfluoroalkylsilane; fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salts of hydrogenated taurate glutamic acid, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxide, polyorganosiloxanes containing perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, and amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearate titanate, and mixtures thereof.

[0108] N-acyl amino acids may contain an acyl group with 8-22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, 2-ethylhexanoyl, hexanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.

[0109] The term "alkyl" as used in the compounds cited above specifically refers to alkyl groups containing 1-30 carbon atoms, and preferably 5-16 carbon atoms.

[0110] Hydrophobic pigments are particularly described in patent application EP-A-1 086 683.

[0111] In some preferred embodiments, the colored pigments used in this invention are selected from fluorinated pigments, hydrophilic pigments, and hydrophobic pigments.

[0112] More preferably, the colored pigment used in this invention is selected from pigments treated with: triisostearic acid isopropoxytitanium salt, triethoxysilyl ethyl polydimethylsiloxane, or mixtures thereof.

[0113] According to a preferred embodiment, the colored pigments used in this invention are selected from metal oxide pigments, organic pigments, organic lakes, and mixtures thereof.

[0114] Advantageously, the amount of pigment present relative to the total weight of the composition ranges from 1.5 wt.% to 20 wt.%, preferably 3 wt.% to 15 wt.%, more preferably 4 wt.% to 12 wt.%.

[0115] Aqueous phase

[0116] As an oil-in-water emulsion, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.

[0117] The aqueous phase contains water.

[0118] Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase comprises an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25°C), such as a diol having 2-20 carbon atoms, preferably 2-10 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 2-6 carbon atoms, such as propylene glycol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, octyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.

[0119] Advantageously, the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 40% to 95% of the total weight of the composition, preferably 50% to 90% by weight, and more preferably 55% to 85% by weight.

[0120] Advantageously, the amount of water present in the composition is in the range of 40% to 80% by weight, preferably 45% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

[0121] Fat phase

[0122] As an oil-in-water emulsion, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one dispersed fatty phase.

[0123] The fatty phase preferably comprises at least one oil.

[0124] Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0125] The term "oil" refers to a non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and is immiscible with water. The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that can remain on keratin materials for at least several hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and particularly has a viscosity of less than 10... -3 Oils with a vapor pressure of mmHg (0.13 Pa) are also considered non-volatile. Non-volatile oils can also be defined as those with a certain evaporation rate such that, under the conditions specified above, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm³. 2 .

[0126] These oils can be of plant, mineral, or synthetic origin.

[0127] The oil can be selected from hydrocarbon oil, silicone oil, or fluorinated oil.

[0128] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil that is essentially composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, with optional O and N atoms, or even solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, with optional O and N atoms, and contains no Si or F heteroatoms. Such oils may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine, and / or amide groups.

[0129] The term "silicone oil" refers to an oil containing at least one silicon atom, particularly an oil containing Si-O groups.

[0130] The term "fluorinated oil" refers to oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0131] The amount of oil present relative to the total weight of the composition can range, for example, from 1.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 8% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 16% to 40% by weight.

[0132] The fatty phase may also contain solid fatty compounds that are solid at room temperature, such as shea butter.

[0133] Advantageously, the amount of the fatty phase present relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention ranges from 2% to 50% by weight, preferably from 8% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 16% to 40% by weight.

[0134] Other cosmetic active ingredients

[0135] In addition to the emollients and colored pigments defined above, the compositions of the present invention may also contain other cosmetic active ingredients.

[0136] Examples of active ingredients in cosmetics may include natural extracts; vitamins, such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives (especially esters) of said vitamins, and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; α-hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and their derivatives; sunscreens; extracts from algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; agents that act on microcirculation; and mixtures thereof.

[0137] In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention comprise tocopherol.

[0138] Those skilled in the art can readily adjust the amount of additional cosmetic active ingredients based on the end use of the composition according to the invention.

[0139] Other excipients or additives

[0140] The compositions of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, such as fragrances, chelating agents (e.g., tetrasodium diacetate of glutamate and disodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol), bactericides, thickeners (e.g., xanthan gum, acrylamide / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, acrylate / C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, hydroxypropyl guar gum); oil thickeners (e.g., polyurethane, polyamide, ethyl cellulose), pH adjusters (e.g., triethanolamine, citric acid, and sodium hydroxide), fillers (e.g., aluminum octenyl succinate of starch and polymethyl silsesquioxane), and mixtures thereof.

[0141] Those skilled in the art may select the amount of additional excipients or additives so as not to adversely affect the final use of the composition according to the invention.

[0142] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for care and / or cosmetic keratin materials in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising, by weight of the composition:

[0143] (i) 1 wt.% to 5 wt.% of at least one first surfactant selected from polyglycerol C10-C22 fatty acid esters having a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units and a sugar moiety;

[0144] (ii) 0.5 wt.% to 10 wt.% of at least one second surfactant selected from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, polysorbate 40, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 65, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 85, PEG-5 sorbitol isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitol triisostearate, PEG-20 sorbitol isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitol heptaoleate, PEG-20 sorbitol tetraoleate and PEG-20 sorbitol trioleate, lauryl ether-2, stearyl ether-2, decanol ether-3, and mixtures thereof;

[0145] (iii) 0.5 wt.% to 8 wt.% of at least one saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol;

[0146] (iv) at least one emollient of 3 wt.% to 20 wt.%; and

[0147] (v) 4 wt.%-12 wt.% of colored pigments selected from metal oxide pigments, organic pigments, organic lakes, and mixtures thereof.

[0148] Galen Forms and Methods

[0149] The composition of the present invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0150] The compositions according to the present invention have a layered structure or a layered structured phase.

[0151] The term "layered structure" or "layered structured phase" refers to a liquid crystal structure, or a swollen or non-swollen crystalline layered hydrated phase, exhibiting planar symmetry and comprising several amphiphilic bilayers arranged in parallel and separated by a liquid medium, typically water. For example... Figure 1 As shown in the paper, layered structures exhibit characteristic optical effects when observed under 90° cross-polarized light with a unique optical effect using an optical microscope. The observation of a unique optical effect indicates the formation of a layered structure.

[0152] Preferably, the composition according to the invention can maintain its layered structure after being stored at room temperature for 20 days; more preferably, the composition according to the invention can maintain its formulation structure for 2 months at 45°C.

[0153] The compositions of this invention can be used in nursing and / or cosmetic keratin materials.

[0154] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for using keratin materials for care and / or cosmetic purposes, comprising applying a composition according to a first aspect of the invention to the keratin material.

[0155] The following examples are used to illustrate the invention, but are not limiting in nature. Example

[0156] The main raw materials used, their product names, and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0157] Table 1

[0158]

[0159]

[0160] Invention Examples 1-8 and Comparative Examples 1-4

[0161] The compositions of Invention Examples (IE.) 1-8 and the compositions of Comparative Examples (CE.) 1-4 were prepared according to the amounts given in Tables 2 and 3. The amounts of each component are given as a percentage by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it.

[0162] Table 2

[0163]

[0164] Table 3

[0165]

[0166] Preparation method:

[0167] Taking the composition of Invention Example 1 as an example, the compositions listed above are prepared as follows:

[0168] 1) Use a three-roll mill to grind red 7, red 28 lake, yellow 6 lake and caprylic / capric triglycerides into a pigment paste;

[0169] 2) Weigh the ground pigment paste and all other ingredients into the main container.

[0170] 3) Heat the main container to 85°C;

[0171] 4) Homogenize the bulk at 85°C until a uniform emulsion is formed; and

[0172] 5) Cool the base material to 35°C by gently wall-scrapping.

[0173] Evaluate

[0174] The assessment of whether a layered structure will form is as follows.

[0175] The composition was observed under 90° cross-polarized light using a Leica DLMB microscope, and photomicrographs were taken. The observation of characteristic optical effects characteristic of a layered structure indicates the formation of a layered structure.

[0176] Figure 1 A photograph of the composition of Invention Example 1 (IE.1) taken using a polarizing microscope is shown.

[0177] Similar photographs were also obtained for the compositions of Invention Examples 2-8 (Ex.2-8).

[0178] It is evident that a layered structure is formed in the compositions of Invention Examples 1-8 (IE.1-8).

[0179] No similar photographs were obtained for the compositions of Comparative Examples 1-4 (CE.1-4).

[0180] The stability of the compositions was assessed by determining the time it took for each composition to maintain its layered structure after storage at room temperature (RT) and 45°C.

[0181] The cosmetic effects of each composition of Invention Examples 1-8 were evaluated by measuring coverage, and compared with two water-in-oil emulsion lipsticks (Product 1 (YSL Vernis à Lèvres Pop Water, from L'Oréal SA) and Product 2 (Perfect Diary Ultra Irresistible Light Everlasting Lip Veil, from Guangzhou Yixian E-commerce Co., Ltd.). The coverage of each composition was also compared with a high-coverage anhydrous lipstick—Product 3 (Giorgio Armani Lis Maestro Intense Velvet color, from L'Oréal SA).

[0182] Weigh 60 mg of each sample and spread it on a black-and-white card with a fingertip covered with the sample. The card is checkerboard-shaped and has 3x2 square units alternating between black and white, with each square having an area of ​​2.5 cm x 2.5 cm.

[0183] The sample-covered cards were dried in a forced-ventilation oven at 37°C for 10 minutes. Coverage was measured using a benchtop spectrophotometer (x·rite VS450, x·rite, Michigan, USA) controlled by Color iConrol software. The colors of the white and black cells were measured in six replicates using the Lab color scale. The difference between the L values ​​measured from the covered white and black cells was calculated and reported as the coverage of the formulation. A smaller value indicates higher coverage.

[0184] The hydration effects of the compositions of Examples 1-8 were evaluated as follows: Ten volunteers were invited to apply each composition to their forearms and lips, and the hydration effects were rated on a scale of 1-5, with 1 being the lowest level of hydration and 5 being the highest level of hydration. All 10 volunteers reported an immediate feeling of hydration.

[0185] The results of the layered structure, stability, cosmetic effect (i.e., coverage) and hydration effect of the above-prepared compositions and products 1-3 are listed in Tables 4 and 5.

[0186] Table 4

[0187]

[0188] Table 5

[0189]

[0190]

[0191] NA: Not tested.

[0192] As can be seen from Table 4, the compositions of Examples 1-8 have a layered structure and can provide good cosmetic effects (i.e., coverage) and hydration effects.

Claims

1. A composition for use as a skincare and / or cosmetic keratin material in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: (i) at least one first surfactant selected from polyglycerol-3 distearate and methylglucose-polyglycerol-3 distearate; (ii) at least one second surfactant, which is different from the first surfactant as defined above, and has an HLB < 15 at a temperature of 25°C; the second surfactant is selected from C16-C22 fatty acid esters of glycerol, oxyethylene-modified dehydrated sorbitol C12-C22 fatty acid esters and oxyethylene-modified C12-C22 fatty alcohols containing 2-4 OE units. (iii) at least one saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol; (iv) at least one emollient; and (v) at least 1.5 wt.% of colored pigment relative to the total weight of the composition; The composition thereon has a layered structure or layered structured phase formed by a combination of components (i), (ii) and (iii) as defined above.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the first surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.% to 15 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition according to any one of claims 1-2, wherein the second surfactant is selected from glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 65, polysorbate 85, PEG-5 sorbitol isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitol isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitol peroleate, PEG-20 sorbitol tetraoleate, lauryl ether-2, stearyl ether-2, and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1-2, wherein the amount of the second surfactant is in the range of 0.1 wt.% to 20 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1-2, wherein the saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, betaine alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1-2, wherein the saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.% to 20 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1-2, wherein the colored pigment is selected from metal oxide pigments, organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1-2, wherein the colored pigment is selected from fluorinated pigments, hydrophilic pigments, and hydrophobic pigments.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1-2, wherein the pigment is present in an amount ranging from 1.5 wt.% to 20 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition of claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) 1 wt.% to 5 wt.% of at least one first surfactant selected from polyglycerol-3 distearate and methylglucose-polyglycerol-3 distearate; (ii) 0.5 wt.% to 10 wt.% of at least one second surfactant, wherein the second surfactant is selected from glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 65, polysorbate 85, PEG-5 sorbitol isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitol isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitol peroleate, PEG-20 sorbitol tetraoleate, lauryl ether-2, stearyl ether-2, and mixtures thereof; (iii) 0.5 wt.% to 8 wt.% of at least one saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol; (iv) at least one emollient of 3 wt.% to 20 wt.%; and (v) 4 wt.% to 12 wt.% of colored pigments selected from metal oxide pigments, organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.

11. A non-therapeutic method for using a keratin material for care and / or cosmetic purposes, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1-10 to the keratin material.

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