Digital knitted simulation of miao pleated skirt and process method thereof

Abstract

The present application relates to a kind of digital knitting simulation Miao pleated skirt and its process method, the product pleated area includes wave peak area, wave valley area and transition area, using the regular interlacing tuck technology of double-sided weft knitting fabric front and back, wave peak area is convex, wave valley area is concave, and the connection of transition area forms the folding decorative effect of vertical and horizontal, the overall product presents the pleated effect of stretchable, foldable and three-dimensional and hierarchical. Through the combination of functional yarn, the tightening of waist head and the simulation of linen texture are completed. The present application overcomes the technical limitations of Miao pleated skirt, such as multiple production processes, long time consumption, unquantifiable production, slow update speed, etc. The resulting knitted pleated skirt has good simulation effect, high production efficiency, and the pleat distance and skirt color can be changed with computer control, meeting people's aesthetic value while having strong practical value.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application belongs to the technical field of clothing, and particularly relates to a digital knitted simulated Miao pleated skirt and a process method thereof. BACKGROUND

[0002] The Miao pleated skirt is an important representative in Chinese ethnic clothing and a symbolic sign in Miao costumes. Its pleating process and pattern decoration contain costume culture and aesthetic value such as Miao history and culture, myths and legends, totem worship, and folk customs. The Miao pleated skirt is made of hemp. A fine hemp pleated skirt has a quite complex process flow. A craftsman needs to go through the steps of spinning (hemp planting, hemp cutting, hemp stripping, hemp retting, thread winding and hemp spinning, hemp boiling and thread washing), weaving, dyeing, patchwork decoration, pleat sewing, high-temperature steam setting, embroidery, and sewing, and it usually takes one year or even longer to complete a pleated skirt. Even if the spinning part is omitted, it still takes at least one quarter to complete a pleated skirt.

[0003] Under the impact of economic globalization, the Miao pleated skirt technique is facing great challenges. With the development and popularization of digital technology, the pleated culture which is slow in updating and making has gradually lost its appeal to young people. As a result, the audience group is becoming smaller and smaller, the inheritors are fewer and fewer, and the culture is gradually out of touch with modern culture. SUMMARY

[0004] The technical problem to be solved by the present application is to provide a digital knitted simulated Miao pleated skirt and a process method thereof, which overcome the shortcomings of complex production technique, slow production time, and low production efficiency of the prior art.

[0005] The process method of the digital knitted simulated Miao pleated skirt of the present application comprises:

[0006] (1) a double jacquard circular knitting machine is used to feed basic yarn and functional yarn into the machine for needle guiding, and horizontal and vertical pleating effects are formed by the needle turning of the needle disc and the needle cylinder; the functional yarn contains one or more of hot melt yarn, wrapped yarn, and spandex;

[0007] (2) the automatic tightening effect of the waist opening is achieved by the insertion of rib stitches and spandex of the functional yarn, and a separation line is arranged above and below;

[0008] (3) post-finishing to obtain a pleated product.

[0009] The preferred mode of the preparation method is as follows:

[0010] In step (1), multi-channel yarn nozzles are used for knitting, and further preferably, 4-channel yarn nozzles are used for knitting.

[0011] The basic yarn in the step (1) is nylon; wherein the yarn count of the nylon is 40D / 1 to 70D / 2.

[0012] The yarn count of the hot melt yarn in the step (1) is 100D to 180D; the yarn count of the spandex is 20D to 210D44D and machine applicable count; the yarn count of the wrapping yarn is 10 / 08 to 40 / 70.

[0013] Further, the wrapping yarn is nylon wrapping spandex yarn.

[0014] The step (1) includes knitting guide yarn by feeding the basic yarn and / or functional yarn into the first, second, third, fourth, fifth, sixth and eighth routes, respectively, and the knitting guide yarn is formed by the loops in the second, fourth, sixth and eighth routes being sequentially nested; the guide yarn in the second route is set to feed one spandex or wrapping yarn into the first yarn nozzle (2nd route) and feed two basic yarns and one hot melt yarn into the second yarn nozzle (2nd route); the guide yarn in the fourth route is set the same as the second route; the guide yarn in the sixth route is set to feed one wrapping yarn or spandex into the first yarn nozzle (6th route) and feed two basic yarns and one hot melt yarn into the second yarn nozzle (6th route); the guide yarn in the eighth route is set the same as the sixth route.

[0015] The step (1) includes forming horizontal and vertical pleat effects by the needle turning of the needle disc and needle cylinder, wherein the horizontal and vertical pleats include a peak area, a valley area and a transition area, the regular interlacing needle turning technology of the double-sided weft-knitted fabric is adopted to make the peak area protrude outward and the valley area recess inward, and the vertical and horizontal folding decoration effects are formed by the connection through the transition area.

[0016] The step (1) includes forming horizontal and vertical pleat effects by the needle turning of the needle disc and needle cylinder, and the horizontal and vertical pleat effects specifically include: a first pleat area knitting unit in the pleat transition area: the loops in the second, fourth, sixth and eighth routes are sequentially out of the first row of the needle disc, not out of the needle, not out of the needle and out of the needle cylinder; the second row is not out of the needle, out of the needle cylinder, out of the needle disc and not out of the needle; a second pleat area knitting unit in the pleat peak area: the loops in the second route are sequentially not out of the needle, not out of the needle, not out of the needle, the needle disc is turned to the needle cylinder, the needle cylinder is turned to the needle disc, the third and fourth rows are not out of the needle, the needle disc is turned to the needle cylinder, the needle cylinder is turned to the needle disc, not out of the needle and not out of the needle; a third pleat area knitting unit in the pleat valley area: the loops in the second route are sequentially the needle cylinder is turned to the needle disc, not out of the needle, not out of the needle, not out of the needle, the third and fourth rows are not out of the needle, not out of the needle, the needle cylinder is turned to the needle disc and not out of the needle.

[0017] The step (3) post-finishing is to melt the hot melt yarn at the separation line, separate the excess buffer fabric, and obtain a complete knitted pleated skirt, and then wash and dry.

[0018] The application provides a digital knitted simulated Miao pleated skirt and a process method thereof.

[0019] The application is knitted on a computer double jacquard circular machine (for example, SM-DJ2T of Italy SANTONI), basic yarn (nylon) and functional yarn (hot melt yarn, wrapped yarn and spandex) are fed into different paths through a multi-path yarn nozzle, horizontal and vertical pleat effects are formed through needle lifting of a needle disc and a needle cylinder, automatic tightening effects of a waist opening are completed through interlacing of rib stitches and spandex, and automatic separation effects of buffer fabric are completed through separation lines arranged on the upper and lower parts.

[0020] Advantages

[0021] The application overcomes the limitation that a traditional pleated skirt needs manual long-time repetitive labor and progresses slowly, combines a classic national handicraft manufacturing mode with modern digital technology, improves production efficiency, increases variability, and provides a new development mode for traditional culture inheritance and innovation.

[0022] In the application, the knitting method simulates the pleat shape and horizontal splicing decoration of a Miao pleated skirt through a computer double jacquard circular machine (for example, SM-DJ2T of Italy SANTONI), hot melt yarn is added at separation lines of a skirt body, a waist opening and a lower hem, the characteristics of hemp cloth simulation, pleat shaping and no need for splicing and sewing in subsequent processes are realized, a Miao simulated knitted pleated skirt with a length of 90 cm can be knitted in two hours, and the overall manufacturing time is shortened. The technology overcomes the technical limitations of a Miao pleated skirt, such as many manufacturing processes, long time consumption, unquantifiable production and slow updating speed, the knitted pleated skirt has good simulation effect, high production efficiency, and the pleat distance and skirt color can be changed according to computer control, meets the aesthetic value of people and has strong practical value. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0023] Figure 1 It is a pleat structure diagram;

[0024] Figure 2 It is a knitted structure design drawing (pleat transition area);

[0025] Figure 3 It is a knitted structure design drawing (pleat peak area);

[0026] Figure 4 It is a knitted structure design drawing (pleat valley area);

[0027] Figure 5Knitted DIS pattern

[0028] Figure 6 Simulated Miao pleated skirt seamless digital knitted skirt pattern.

[0029] The contents represented by the relevant symbols in 2-4 in the drawing are directly described here. O represents needle disc needle, X represents needle cylinder needle, □ represents no needle, V represents needle disc needle to needle cylinder, and ∧ represents needle cylinder needle to needle disc DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0030] The application will be further described below in connection with specific embodiments. It should be understood that these embodiments are only used to illustrate the application and not to limit the scope of the application. Furthermore, it should be understood that after reading the content taught by the application, those skilled in the art can make various modifications or changes to the application, and these equivalent forms also fall within the scope defined by the appended claims of the application.

[0031] Example 1

[0032] (1) Design of drawings: draw the folding structure line of pleats with vertical lines, and reduce the color to a color block recognizable by knitting software through the index color function of Photoshop, and correspond to different areas: No. 8 color corresponds to the peak area, No. 24 color corresponds to the valley area, and No. 5 color corresponds to the transition area (as shown in Figure 1 ).

[0033] (2) Specification conversion: convert the design drawing into a bmp format that can be recognized by a machine, select the corresponding width according to the number of needles of the machine, the specification unit is pixel, and the color selection is RGB mode.

[0034] (3) Yarn selection: A yarn selects nylon, and the yarn count is 70D / 2; B yarn selects hot melt yarn, and the yarn count is 180D; C yarn selects wrapped yarn (nylon wrapped spandex yarn), and the yarn count is 20 / 30; D yarn selects spandex, and the yarn count is 44D.

[0035] (4) Pleat area knitting color block knitting unit setting:

[0036] The No. 5 color block pleat transition area, the loops of the 2nd, 4th, 6th and 8th lines are first row needle disc needle, no needle, no needle, needle cylinder needle in turn, the second row is no needle, needle cylinder needle, needle disc needle, no needle (as shown in Figure 2 ); The No. 8 color block pleat peak area, the loops of the 2nd line are first, second, third and fourth rows of no needle, no needle, no needle, needle disc needle to needle cylinder in turn, the third and fourth rows are no needle, needle disc needle to needle cylinder, no needle, no needle (as shown in Figure 3The 2nd loop is sequentially needle cylinder to dial, no needle, no needle, no needle in the first and second rows, no needle, no needle, needle cylinder to dial, no needle in the third and fourth rows (as shown in FIG. 8). Figure 4

[0037] (5) Knitting yarn guide setting of pleat area:

[0038] The knitting yarn guide is formed by the loops of the 2nd, 4th, 6th and 8th loops in sequence. The yarn guide of the 2nd loop is set to feed one yarn D through the 2nd yarn guide and two yarns A and one yarn B through the 6th yarn guide. The yarn guide setting of the 4th loop is the same as that of the 2nd loop. The yarn guide setting of the 6th loop is set to feed one yarn C through the 2nd yarn guide and two yarns A and one yarn B through the 6th yarn guide. The yarn guide setting of the 8th loop is the same as that of the 6th loop.

[0039] (6) Knitting setting of other areas: the waist area adopts rib structure, and the yarn guide setting is the same as that of the 2nd and 4th loops. The 150D spandex is connected in the middle of the rib structure to tighten the waist. The waist opening and the skirt bottom are provided with a separation line of air cylinder structure, and the yarn is selected as 180D hot melt yarn. The waist head is connected to the skirt body, which is represented by the DIS diagram (as shown in FIG. 9). Figure 5

[0040] (7) Post-processing: ① Use an iron to melt the hot melt yarn at the separation line to separate the excess buffer fabric and obtain a complete seamless pleated skirt (as shown in FIG. 10) ; ② washing; ③ drying. Figure 6

[0041] The present pleated seamless digital knitted product adopts the regular interlacing and needle turning technology of the front and back of the knitted fabric, so that the wave peak area of the pleat is convex and the wave valley area is concave. Through the connection of the transition area, a vertical and horizontal folding decoration effect is formed, and the overall product presents a stretchable, foldable and pleated effect with a three-dimensional and layered effect. Through the insertion of rib structure and functional spandex yarn, the product waist head can be stretched and automatically tightened. Through the combination of functional hot melt yarn, the obtained knitted fabric is more crisp and effectively simulates the real feel of linen.​​​

Claims

1. A digital knitting technique for simulating a Miao ethnic pleated skirt, comprising: (1) A double-sided jacquard circular knitting machine is used, with basic yarn and functional yarn fed separately for knitting guidance, and horizontal and vertical pleats formed by the turning of the needle plate and the needle cylinder; wherein the functional yarn includes one or more of hot melt yarn, covered yarn, and spandex; wherein the horizontal and vertical pleats are formed by the turning of the needle plate and the needle cylinder, wherein the horizontal and vertical pleats include peak areas, trough areas and transition areas, and the double-sided weft knitted fabric is knitted with regular staggered turning of the needle on both sides, so that the peak areas are convex and the trough areas are concave, and the vertical and horizontal folds are formed by the connection of the transition areas; the knitting guidance yarn is formed by the loops of the 2nd, 4th, 6th and 8th lines in sequence, and the horizontal and vertical pleat effect formed by the turning of the needle plate and the needle cylinder specifically includes the knitting unit of the pleated transition area: the 2nd, 4th, 6th and 8th lines The sequence of the loops is as follows: first row needle plate exit, needle not exit, needle not exit, needle cylinder exit; second row needle not exit, needle cylinder exit, needle plate exit, needle not exit. For the knitting unit in the pleated peak area: the first and second rows needle not exit, needle not exit, needle not exit, needle plate flips to needle cylinder; third and fourth rows needle not exit, needle plate flips to needle cylinder, needle not exit, needle not exit. For the knitting unit in the pleated trough area: the first and second rows needle cylinder flips to needle plate, needle not exit, needle not exit, needle not exit; third and fourth rows needle not exit, needle not exit, needle cylinder flips to needle plate, needle not exit. (2) The waistband is automatically tightened by interlacing rib knit and functional spandex yarn, and a separation line is set. (3) After finishing, a knitted pleated skirt is obtained.

2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step (1), the basic yarn is nylon; wherein the yarn count of the nylon is 40D / 1 to 70D / 2.

3. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step (1), the yarn count of the hot melt yarn is 100D~180D; the yarn count of the spandex yarn is 20D~210D; and the yarn count of the covered yarn is 10 / 08~40 / 70.

4. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step (1), the yarn guiding for knitting by feeding basic yarn and functional yarn separately includes: the yarn guiding of the second yarn guide is set so that the first yarn nozzle feeds one spandex or covered yarn, and the second yarn nozzle feeds two basic yarns and one hot melt yarn; the yarn guiding of the fourth yarn guide is the same as that of the second yarn guide; the yarn guiding of the sixth yarn guide is set so that the first yarn nozzle feeds one covered yarn or spandex, and the second yarn nozzle feeds two basic yarns and one hot melt yarn; the yarn guiding of the eighth yarn guide is the same as that of the sixth yarn guide.

5. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step (2), the waist area adopts rib weave, and the yarn guide is set to feed a functional yarn spandex into the first yarn nozzle, and feed two basic yarns and a functional yarn hot melt yarn into the second yarn nozzle. Ribbed knit with spandex in the middle for waist tightening; hollow knit separation lines are added at the waist opening and hem of the skirt, and hot melt yarn is used. The waistband connects to the skirt body.

6. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step (3), the finishing process involves melting the hot-melt yarn at the separation line to obtain a complete pleated skirt.

7. A digitally knitted simulated Miao ethnic pleated skirt prepared by the method of claim 1.

Images