Preparation and application of essential oil containing alpine gastrodia elata

Abstract

The invention discloses a preparation method and application of an essential oil containing alpine gastrodia elata, and belongs to the field of cosmetic preparations; the essential oil containing alpine gastrodia elata is composed of an efficacy oil component and a base oil component; the efficacy oil component comprises gastrodia elata root extract, calamus root essential oil, artemisia argyi essential oil and bisabolol; there is a certain synergistic effect between the gastrodia elata root extract, calamus root essential oil, artemisia argyi essential oil and bisabolol provided by the invention, and better moisturizing and soothing effects can be obtained by compounding and using; the tri(ethylhexanoic acid)glycerol and jojoba seed oil provided by the invention can effectively promote the moisturizing and soothing effects of the overall essential oil formula under a specific adding ratio.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the field of cosmetic preparations, and particularly relates to the preparation and application of essential oil containing alpine gastrodia elata. Background Art

[0002] Unlike water, lotions, creams, etc. in cosmetics, essence oil is an oily substance similar to makeup remover oil or essential oil. Most of the ingredients of essence oil are oily raw materials, most of which do not contain water and water-based raw materials, and most of them do not require additional ingredients such as emulsifiers, thickeners and preservatives. Since many effective ingredients that are beneficial to the skin are oil-soluble, and compared with water-based raw materials, oily raw materials are more easily absorbed by the skin, so when ordinary lotions and creams cannot meet the moisturizing needs, you can choose to use essence oil to moisturize.

[0003] The essence oils in the prior art can be divided into three categories based on their ingredients. The first category is that the formula contains less than three ingredients, or even only one oily raw material, without water or water-based raw materials; the second category is that the types of oily raw materials are more than three, without water or water-based raw materials; the third category is that it contains more than three oily raw materials, and contains water and water-based raw materials. The skin feel of this type of product is similar to that of ordinary creams and other skin care products, and there is no essential difference in the combination of ingredients. The commonly used oily raw materials in the first type of essence oil products are olive oil, rosehip oil, squalane and jojoba oil. The reason why this type of product has not become a mainstream product is that the skin feel is not good, it is greasy and heavy, and it is not easy to push away. The second type of essence oil is the mainstream product on the market. This type of product contains a variety of oily raw materials, which not only adjusts the skin feel of the product, but also maintains efficacy, safety and stability. For dry, neutral and mixed skin, the use of this type of essence oil can not only moisturize, but also take into account the soothing effect, killing two birds with one stone.

[0004] The inventors found that the essence oil in the prior art has a good moisturizing effect, but the long-term moisturizing and soothing effects still need to be improved. Summary of the invention

[0005] In view of the deficiencies in the prior art, the present invention aims to prepare an essential oil containing alpine gastrodia elata and its application. The moisturizing and soothing essential oil provided by the present invention not only has a good moisturizing effect, but also has a good soothing effect, and has no adverse reactions to the skin.

[0006] To achieve the above object, the present invention discloses the following technical solutions:

[0007] In a first aspect, the present invention provides an essential oil containing alpine gastrodia elata, which is composed of an effective oil component and a base oil component;

[0008] The effective oil component comprises gastrodia elata root extract, calamus root essential oil, artemisia essential oil and bisabolol.

[0009] Furthermore, the functional oil component comprises, by weight:

[0010]

[0011] Furthermore, the base oil component includes: squalane, tocopherol acetate, pentaerythritol tetra(di-tert-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate), tri(ethylhexanoin)glyceryl, isononyl isononanoate, jojoba seed oil and isohexadecane.

[0012] Gastrodia elata root extract is rich in polysaccharides, amino acids and other moisturizing ingredients, which can form a protective film on the skin surface, effectively lock in moisture and prevent water loss. At the same time, it can also increase the moisture content of the skin's stratum corneum, keep the skin moisturized for a long time, and relieve dryness, tightness and other discomforts. In addition, Gastrodia elata root extract contains some ingredients with soothing effects, such as gastrodin, which can relieve skin irritation and inflammation, reduce redness, swelling, itching and other discomforts, and restore the skin to a calm and comfortable state.

[0013] Calamus root essential oil has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and skin soothing effects. It can help regulate skin oil secretion, improve skin dryness and sensitivity, and keep the skin hydrated and healthy.

[0014] Artemisia essential oil is rich in a variety of active ingredients and has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and skin soothing effects. It can help improve skin redness, itching and other discomfort symptoms, and restore the skin to a calm and comfortable state.

[0015] Bisabolol is a skin care ingredient with moisturizing, anti-inflammatory and antipruritic effects. It forms a protective film on the skin surface to prevent moisture loss and keep the skin moisturized. It can also reduce skin inflammatory reactions and relieve symptoms such as skin redness, swelling and itching. In addition, bisabolol also has the effect of promoting skin metabolism and helps improve skin texture and glossiness.

[0016] Gastrodia elata root extract, calamus root essential oil, artemisia annua essential oil and bisabolol can work synergistically with each other to jointly exert moisturizing, soothing and anti-inflammatory effects; Gastrodia elata root extract and calamus root essential oil can jointly improve the discomfort symptoms of the skin caused by inflammatory factors; Artemisia annua essential oil and bisabolol can synergistically exert the effects of moisturizing, anti-inflammatory and soothing the skin; and Gastrodia elata root extract and bisabolol can promote each other's moisturizing properties to keep the skin hydrated.

[0017] The raw materials of the essential oil components in the formula of the present invention are all derived from plants, which are more natural, safe and mild to achieve moisturizing and soothing effects.

[0018] Furthermore, the base oil component comprises, by weight:

[0019]

[0020] Furthermore, the amount of the Gastrodia elata root extract is 0.1-0.2 parts.

[0021] Furthermore, the mass ratio of triethylhexanoin to jojoba seed oil is (2-3):1.

[0022] More preferably, the mass ratio of triethylhexanoin to jojoba seed oil is 2.5:1.

[0023] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing the essential oil containing alpine gastrodia elata according to the first aspect, comprising the following steps:

[0024] (1) Weigh the raw materials by weight;

[0025] (2) Pre-preparing base oil: adding base oil components into the reactor under stirring conditions, heating to 75-85° C., stirring and mixing, and cooling to room temperature;

[0026] (3) preparing essential oil: adding the functional oil component to the reactor in step (2) under stirring, mixing evenly, and obtaining the essential oil containing alpine gastrodia elata.

[0027] Furthermore, in step (2), the stirring speed is 200-300 r / min, and the stirring and mixing time is 15-20 min. In step (3), the stirring speed is 200-300 r / min, and the stirring and mixing time is 10-15 min.

[0028] In a third aspect, the present invention provides the use of the essential oil containing alpine gastrodia elata described in the first aspect in the preparation of a skin care product with moisturizing and soothing effects.

[0029] Beneficial effects of the present invention:

[0030] 1. There is a certain synergistic effect between the Gastrodia elata root extract, calamus root essential oil, artemisia essential oil, and bisabolol provided by the present invention, and the combined use can obtain a better hyaluronidase inhibition effect

[0031] 2. The tri(ethylhexanoic acid)glyceryl ester and jojoba seed oil provided by the present invention can effectively promote the moisturizing and soothing effects of the overall essence oil formula at a specific addition ratio. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0032] The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be described clearly and completely below. Obviously, the described embodiments are only part of the embodiments of the present invention, rather than all the embodiments.

[0033] Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by ordinary technicians in this field without making any creative work shall fall within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0034] The present invention is further described in the following specific embodiments.

[0035] In the present invention:

[0036] Gastrodia elata root extract is Gastrodia elata root extract, INCI name is GASTRODIA ELATAROOT EXTRACT, purchased from Shaanxi Xiazhou Biotechnology Co., Ltd.;

[0037] Calamus root essential oil is the essential oil extracted from the dried rhizome of calamus (Latin name: Acorus calamus Linn.) by steam distillation, purchased from Poli Aromatic Medicine Technology (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.

[0038] Artemisia arborescens essential oil is the essential oil extracted from Artemisia arborescens L. by steam distillation and was purchased from Poli Aromatic Medicine Technology (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.

[0039] The INCI name of bisabolol is BISABOLOL, which was purchased from Shanghai Yuanye Biotechnology Co., Ltd.;

[0040] Other raw materials are commercially available.

[0041] Study on the anti-allergic and soothing effects of functional oil components

[0042] Hyaluronidase is the main factor causing allergic reactions. When allergens invade the body for the first time, the body will produce antibodies IgE. When allergens invade the body again, they will bind to the IgE antibodies on the surface of mast cells, thereby initiating activation signals and releasing histamine. Histamine produces allergic reactions under the activation of hyaluronidase. Therefore, inhibiting the activity of hyaluronidase can effectively prevent the occurrence of allergic reactions. Hyaluronidase has a strong correlation with inflammatory reactions and allergic reactions. After years of testing and research, the industry has also found that the in vitro hyaluronidase inhibition test method is consistent with the conclusion of the human soothing effect evaluation.

[0043] The present invention adopts the following method to determine the in vitro hyaluronidase inhibition rate: 0.1 mL of 2.5 mmol / L CaCl 2Add 0.5 mL of hyaluronidase (600 U / mL) and keep warm at 37°C for 20 min; add 0.5 mL of sample solution and keep warm at 37°C for 20 min; add 2 mL of 0.4 mg / mL sodium hyaluronate and keep warm at 37°C for 40 min; add 1 mL of acetylacetone solution, heat in a boiling water bath for 15 min, and immediately cool with ice water for 5 min; finally, add 1.0 mL of Ehrlich reagent, leave at room temperature for 60 min to develop color, and measure the absorbance at 530 nm.

[0044] The calculation formula for the inhibition rate of hyaluronidase by the sample is:

[0045] Hyaluronidase inhibition rate (%) = [(V A -V B )-(V C -V D )] / (V A -V B )×100%

[0046] Where:

[0047] V A It indicates the absorbance of the control solution (using acetate buffer instead of sample solution);

[0048] V B It indicates the absorbance of the control blank solution (using acetate buffer instead of sample solution and enzyme solution);

[0049] V C Indicates the absorbance of the sample solution;

[0050] V D Indicates the absorbance of the sample blank solution (using acetate buffer solution instead of enzyme solution).

[0051] Each test example was prepared according to the mass fractions shown in Table 1. A sample solution with a concentration of 1 wt% was prepared using a mixture of ethanol and deionized water in a volume ratio of 1:1 as a solvent. The anti-allergic and soothing efficacy of each test example sample solution was tested according to the aforementioned method. The test results are shown in Table 1.

[0052] Table 1

[0053] Test Example 1 Test Example 2 Test Example 3 Test Example 4 Gastrodia elata root extract 0.1 0.2 0.5 0.7 Calamus root essential oil 0.05 0.07 0.07 0.07 Artemisia essential oil 0.02 0.04 0.04 0.04 Bisabolol 0.2 0.5 0.5 0.5 Hyaluronidase inhibition rate (%) 78.2 83.4 80.7 81.7

[0054] Table 1 (continued)

[0055] Test Example 5 Test Example 6 Test Example 7 Test Example 8 Test Example 9 Test Example 10 Gastrodia elata root extract 0.2 0.2 - 0.7 1 0.2 Calamus root essential oil - 0.11 0.07 0.07 1 - Acorus calamus extract - - - - - 0.07 Artemisia essential oil 0.11 - 0.04 0.04 1 - Artemisia annua essential oil - - - - - 0.04 Bisabolol 0.5 0.5 0.7 - 1 0.5 Hyaluronidase inhibition rate (%) 42.6 51.3 63.4 49.4 66.7 53.7

[0056] Note: “-” in the table means no addition, and the unit is mass percentage.

[0057] Result analysis:

[0058] According to the results in Table 1, there is a certain synergistic effect between the Gastrodia elata root extract, calamus root essential oil, artemisia essential oil, and bisabolol provided by the present invention, and their combined use can obtain a better hyaluronidase inhibition effect. The composition provided by the present invention has good anti-allergic and soothing effects.

[0059] Study on the moisturizing and hydrating effect of functional oil components

[0060] The skin conductivity of the subjects' forearms was measured using a high-frequency conductivity meter. A high conductivity value indicates a high moisture content in the skin's stratum corneum.

[0061] Test plan: The subject cleans the skin of the forearm thoroughly, and after natural air drying, marks a skin area and applies the composition of the embodiment or comparative example to be tested. The conductivity value of the above skin area is tested 5 minutes after the application is completed, and the conductivity value of the above skin area is tested again 60 minutes and 120 minutes after the application is completed. Each embodiment or comparative example is tested once on the body surface of 3 different subjects, and the test results are averaged. The subjects of each embodiment or comparative example are different. During the test, the ambient temperature of the subject is 20-25°C and the relative humidity is 45-55%.

[0062] Since the correlation coefficient between the conductivity test method and the actual stratum corneum moisture content is as high as 0.99, the stratum corneum moisture content can be measured very sensitively. Therefore, for the convenience of test statistics, the change in conductivity value is used to characterize the change in skin moisture content.

[0063] The calculation formula for the change rate of skin moisture content of the sample is:

[0064] Skin moisture content change rate / % = (E 1 -E 0 ) / E 0 ×100%

[0065] Where:

[0066] E1 is the conductivity value of the skin area to be tested after applying the sample to be tested;

[0067] E0 is the initial conductivity value of the skin area before applying the sample to be tested.

[0068] Each test example was prepared according to the mass fractions shown in Table 1, and a sample solution with a concentration of 1wt% was prepared using a mixture of ethanol and deionized water in a volume ratio of 1:1 as a solvent. The moisturizing and hydrating efficacy of each test example sample solution was tested according to the above-mentioned skin moisture content determination method. The skin moisture content change rate at each time point after applying the sample to be tested is shown in Table 2, wherein a skin area was marked near the skin area where the example or comparative example sample was applied, and no reagent was applied, as a blank control group. Each subject was tested for the blank control group, and the results were averaged.

[0069] Table 2

[0070] 5min 60min 120min Test Example 1 63.7 114.3 152.1 Test Example 2 64.3 120.4 167.8 Test Example 3 64.2 116.7 143.1 Test Example 4 63.1 116.3 140.8 Test Example 5 41.6 70.3 81.3 Test Example 6 45.4 72.1 81.6 Test Example 7 37.9 66.8 73.7 Test Example 8 39.1 66.1 72.1 Test Example 9 50.4 86.3 100.8 Blank control group -0.2 -1.1 -1.3

[0071] Result analysis:

[0072] It can be seen from the test results in Table 2 that the Gastrodia elata root extract, calamus root essential oil, artemisia essential oil, and bisabolol provided by the present invention are compounded in specific amounts. Whether it is 5 minutes of short-term hydration or 120 minutes of long-term moisturizing, the skin water content can be significantly increased compared to the initial state of the unapplied example sample, and has excellent moisturizing and hydrating effects.

[0073] Preparation of Essence Example

[0074] Step (1), weigh the raw materials according to the weight parts in Table 3;

[0075] Step (2), pre-preparing base oil: adding base oil components into a reactor under stirring conditions, heating to 75-85° C., stirring and mixing, and cooling to room temperature;

[0076] Step (3), preparing the essential oil: adding the functional oil component to the reactor of step (2) under stirring, mixing evenly, and obtaining the essential oil containing alpine gastrodia elata.

[0077] Among them, the base oil component and the functional oil component are formulated at a mass ratio of 99:1.

[0078] Table 3

[0079]

[0080] Result analysis:

[0081] According to the test results in Table 3, the tri(ethylhexanoic acid)glyceryl ester and jojoba seed oil provided by the present invention have the effect of promoting the moisturizing and soothing of the overall essence oil formula at a specific addition ratio. When the mass ratio of tri(ethylhexanoic acid)glyceryl ester to jojoba seed oil is 2.5:1, it has better performance.

[0082] Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments and comparative examples are only used to illustrate the technical solution of the present invention rather than to limit the protection scope of the present invention. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that the technical solution of the present invention can be modified or replaced by equivalents without departing from the essence and scope of the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims

1. An essential oil containing alpine gastrodia elata, characterized in that: It is composed of functional oil component and base oil component; The functional oil component comprises the following components in parts by weight: Gastrodia elata root extract 0.1-0.7 parts; Calamus root essential oil 0.05-0.07 parts; Artemisia essential oil 0.02-0.04 parts; Bisabolol 0.2-0.5 parts; The base oil component includes the following components by weight: Squalane 1.5-2.5 parts; Tocopherol acetate 0.2-0.4 parts; Pentaerythritol tetrakis (di-tert-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate) 0.03-0.1 part; 45-55 parts of triethylhexanoin; 16-20 parts of isononyl isononanoate; Jojoba seed oil 18-23 parts; 3-5 parts of isohexadecane; The mass ratio of tri(ethylhexanoic acid)glycerol to jojoba seed oil is (2-3):

1.

2. The essential oil containing alpine gastrodia elata according to claim 1, characterized in that The amount of the Gastrodia elata root extract is 0.1-0.2 parts.

3. The essential oil containing alpine gastrodia elata according to claim 1, characterized in that The mass ratio of the tri(ethylhexanoic acid)glycerol to the jojoba seed oil is 2.5:

1.

4. The method for preparing the essential oil containing alpine gastrodia elata according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: (1) Weigh the raw materials by weight; (2) Pre-prepared base oil: add the base oil component into the reactor under stirring conditions, heat to 75-85°C, stir and mix, and cool to room temperature; (3) Preparing essential oil: adding the functional oil component to the reactor in step (2) under stirring, and mixing evenly to obtain the essential oil containing alpine gastrodia elata.

5. The method for preparing the essential oil containing alpine gastrodia elata according to claim 4, characterized in that: The stirring speed in step (2) is 200-300 r / min, and the stirring and mixing time is 15-20 min. The stirring speed in step (3) is 200-300 r / min, and the stirring and mixing time is 10-15 min.

6. Use of the essential oil containing alpine gastrodia elata according to any one of claims 1 to 3 in the preparation of skin care products with moisturizing and soothing effects.

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