An anti-aging composition, anti-aging cosmetic, and preparation method and application thereof

Abstract

The present invention discloses an anti-aging composition, an anti-aging cosmetic and its preparation method and application. The anti-aging composition includes torreya grandis oil, hydrolyzed Brazil nut protein, angoloside C, carnosic acid and nanovesicle excipients. The present invention uses the above four natural plant components as anti-aging active ingredients, and from multiple perspectives such as promoting collagen synthesis, inhibiting the expression of inflammatory factors, scavenging free radicals, and repairing DNA damage, it exerts a significant anti-aging effect. The present invention encapsulates the above anti-aging active ingredients in the form of nanovesicles, which not only improves the stability of the active ingredients, but also improves the skin absorption effect of the active ingredients. The liposome nanovesicles have good compatibility with the matrix of the cosmetic, effectively solving the compatibility problem between the active ingredients and the cosmetic matrix.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention belongs to the technical field of skin care products, and particularly relates to an anti-aging composition, an anti-aging cosmetic, and a preparation method and application thereof. Background Art

[0002] Skin aging is a multi-factor and multi-level biological process, involving multiple levels such as gene expression, cell metabolism, and oxidative stress. Currently, there are a wide variety of cosmetics developed for skin aging, but these products generally have the disadvantages of low bioavailability, high safety risks and irritation. For example, among common anti-aging active ingredients, the high molecular weight and strong hydrophilicity of acetyl hexapeptide-8 limit its skin permeability. Other macromolecular proteins and unmodified peptides also have poor transdermal absorption due to their large molecular volume or lack of chemical structures that promote skin penetration. Growth factor substances have low bioavailability and it is difficult to maintain their activity. Copper peptide is easily inactivated, sensitive to pH value, and has many limitations in the formulation. Retinoids (vitamin A) can cause pain, burning, and even redness, peeling. Niacinamide can cause skin irritation and flushing, and so on.

[0003] Therefore, it is necessary to provide a product with effective skin absorption enhancement, low irritation, and significant anti-aging effects. Summary of the Invention

[0004] The purpose of the present invention is to solve the deficiencies of the prior art and provide an anti-aging composition. This anti-aging composition has good skin absorption rate, low irritation, high safety, and significant anti-aging effects, and can be applied to the preparation of skin care products or cosmetics.

[0005] Specifically, the anti-aging composition includes torreya grandis oil, hydrolyzed Brazil nut protein, anguloside C, carnosic acid, and a nanovesicle excipient. The mass ratio of torreya grandis oil, hydrolyzed Brazil nut protein, anguloside C, carnosic acid, and the nanovesicle excipient is (2-7):(1-5):(0.5-2):(0.5-1):(85-95).

[0006] Further, the nanovesicle excipient includes water, small molecule alcohols, lipids, and an emulsifier; the mass ratio of water, small molecule alcohols, lipids, and the emulsifier is (60-75):(2-10):(10-20):(1-4).

[0007] Further, the small molecule alcohols are at least one of ethanol, butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, and dipropylene glycol; the lipids are at least one of soybean lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, and cholesterol; the emulsifier is at least one of sophorolipid, sorbitan oleate, and cetearyl olivate.

[0008] Furthermore, the anti-aging composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 2-7% of Torreya grandis oil, 1-5% of Brazilian nut protein hydrolyzate, 0.5-2% of Angloside C, 0.5-1% of Carnosic acid, 1-2% of ethanol, 1-5% of Butanediol, 1-3% of 1,2-hexanediol, 10-15% of hydrogenated lecithin, 1-3% of cholesterol, 0.5-1% of Sophorolipids, 1-3% of Sorbitan Olivate and 60-75% of water.

[0009] On the other hand, the present invention also provides a method for preparing the above anti-aging composition, comprising the following steps:

[0010] (1) Thoroughly stir Torreya grandis oil, hydrogenated lecithin, cholesterol, and sorbitan olivate at 55-60° C. to form a uniform oil phase;

[0011] (2) After dissolving angoside C and carnosic acid in ethanol, add butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, sophorolipids and water, stir and mix, then add Brazilian nut protein hydrolysate, and stir thoroughly to form a uniform aqueous phase;

[0012] (3) adding the oil phase prepared in step (1) to the water phase prepared in step (2) for premixing, stirring in a magnetic stirrer at 1000-1500 rpm for 20-30 min to prepare a primary emulsion;

[0013] (4) The primary emulsion is introduced into an ultra-high pressure microfluidizer for homogenization at a pressure of 100 to 120 MPa. The homogenized dispersion is extruded through a filter membrane with an average pore size of 100 nm and naturally cooled to room temperature to obtain liposome nanovesicles.

[0014] On the other hand, the present invention also provides the use of the anti-aging composition in the preparation of skin care products or cosmetics.

[0015] Preferably, the skin care product or cosmetic is an aqueous solution, emulsion, cream, essence, facial mask or gel.

[0016] Preferably, the anti-aging composition is added in an amount of 2 to 30% by mass in skin care products or cosmetics.

[0017] In another aspect, the present invention further provides a skin care product comprising the above anti-aging composition.

[0018] In the anti-aging composition provided by the present invention, Torreya grandis oil is an essential oil extracted from Torreya grandis bark, which can promote the synthesis of type I collagen, enhance skin elasticity, improve skin hydration, smooth wrinkles, inhibit the production of melanin, and maintain the homeostasis of the internal environment of skin cells.

[0019] Brazil nut protein hydrolysate contains a variety of amino acids, among which the amino acids containing sulfur bonds and disulfide bonds have a relatively high content, significantly superior to other plant protein hydrolysates, and have a significant effect of scavenging free radicals and anti-aging. In addition, the high content of amino acids can repair the broken collagen peptide bonds and elastic nets of the skin, promote the formation of a helical network structure, and restore skin elasticity. It contains rich selenocysteine, making it have a high abundance of selenium element, effectively protecting the stability of biological membranes, antagonizing the damage of various harmful factors to DNA, promoting the synthesis and metabolism of nucleic acids and proteins, and delaying aging.

[0020] Angeroside C is a phenylpropanoid glycoside extracted from the traditional Chinese medicine Scrophularia ningpoensis. It has a repair effect on DNA bases damaged by free radicals, can inhibit the expression of inflammatory factors, has significant anti-inflammatory activity, repairs skin barrier damage caused by inflammation, and effectively inhibits inflammatory aging.

[0021] Carnosic acid is a phenolic diterpene extracted from rosemary or sage. It can effectively scavenge free radicals in the body, reduce oxidative stress, delay cell aging, and help maintain the young state of the skin and body.

[0022] The present invention uses the above four natural plant components as anti-aging active ingredients, and from multiple perspectives such as promoting collagen synthesis, inhibiting the expression of inflammatory factors, scavenging free radicals, and repairing DNA damage, it exerts a significant anti-aging effect. The present invention encapsulates the above anti-aging active ingredients in the form of nanovesicles, which not only improves the stability of the active ingredients, but also improves the skin absorption effect of the active ingredients. The liposome nanovesicles have good compatibility with the matrix of cosmetics, effectively solving the compatibility problem between the active ingredients and the cosmetics matrix. Detailed implementation mode

[0023] The following examples are further descriptions of the present invention, rather than limitations of the present invention. The components of the formulations in the following examples are all conventional commercially available products unless otherwise specified.

[0024] Among them, the Brazil nut protein hydrolysate can be a commercially available product or can be prepared by the following method:

[0025] Disperse Brazil nut protein in water to make a protein solution with a mass fraction of 5%, then add papain, and hydrolyze at pH 7, temperature 60°C, and rotation speed 120 r / min for 4 h. The dosage of papain is 4% of the mass of Brazil nut protein. After the enzymatic hydrolysis is completed, heat up to above 90°C to inactivate the enzyme for 10 min. After removing impurities from the inactivated enzymatic hydrolysate through a tubular membrane (the working pore diameter of the tubular membrane is 0.2 μm, the working temperature is controlled at 30°C, the inlet membrane pressure is controlled at 3 bar, and the outlet membrane pressure is controlled at 1.0 bar), it is concentrated and dried to obtain Brazil nut protein hydrolysate.

[0026] Example 1

[0027] An anti-aging composition, by mass percentage, comprises the components shown in the following table:

[0028]

[0029]

[0030] Preparation steps:

[0031] (1) Thoroughly stir torreya grandis oil, hydrogenated lecithin, cholesterol, and sorbitan oleate at 55 °C until a homogeneous oil phase is formed;

[0032] (2) Dissolve angoroside C and carnosic acid in ethanol, then add butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, sophorolipid, and water, stir and mix evenly, and then add Brazil nut protein hydrolyzate, and stir thoroughly until a homogeneous aqueous phase is formed;

[0033] (3) Add the oil phase prepared in step (1) to the aqueous phase prepared in step (2) for premixing, and stir at 1500 rpm in a magnetic stirrer for 20 min to prepare a primary emulsion;

[0034] (4) Introduce the primary emulsion into a high-pressure microfluidic nano-dispersion homogenizer, perform homogenization treatment at a pressure of 100 MPa, and extrude the homogenized dispersion through a filter membrane with an average pore size of 100 nm, and naturally cool to room temperature to obtain liposome nanovesicles.

[0035] Comparative Example 1

[0036] An anti-aging composition, by mass percentage, comprises the components shown in the following table:

[0037]

[0038]

[0039] The preparation steps refer to Example 1.

[0040] Example 2

[0041] An anti-aging essence, by mass percentage, comprises the following components by mass percentage: 20% of the anti-aging composition (formulation 1 of Example 1), 0.05% of disodium EDTA, 4% of glycerol, 3% of acryloyldimethyltauramide / VP copolymer, 2% of betaine, 0.9% of phenoxyethanol, 0.1% of ethylhexylglycerol, and the balance is deionized water.

[0042] Preparation steps: Add the anti-aging composition of Example 1 Formula 1, disodium EDTA, betaine, and glycerol to deionized water, heat to 40 °C, stir and mix evenly at a stirring rate of 100 revolutions per minute; after mixing evenly, cool to room temperature and then add ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, ethylhexylglycerin, and phenoxyethanol, and mix evenly to obtain the essence.

[0043] Example 3

[0044] An anti-aging essence is prepared with the anti-aging composition of Example 1 Formula 2, and the remaining components are the same as those in Example 2.

[0045] Example 4

[0046] An anti-aging essence is prepared with the anti-aging composition of Example 1 Formula 3, and the remaining components are the same as those in Example 2.

[0047] Example 5

[0048] An anti-aging essence is prepared with the anti-aging composition of Example 1 Formula 4, and the remaining components are the same as those in Example 2.

[0049] Comparative Example 2

[0050] An anti-aging essence is prepared with the anti-aging composition of Comparative Example 1 Formula 5, and the remaining components are the same as those in Example 2.

[0051] Comparative Example 3

[0052] An anti-aging essence is prepared with the anti-aging composition of Comparative Example 1 Formula 6, and the remaining components are the same as those in Example 2.

[0053] Comparative Example 4

[0054] An anti-aging essence is prepared with the anti-aging composition of Comparative Example 1 Formula 7, and the remaining components are the same as those in Example 2.

[0055] Comparative Example 5

[0056] An anti-aging essence is prepared with the anti-aging composition of Comparative Example 1 Formula 8, and the remaining components are the same as those in Example 2.

[0057] I. Stability of Liposome Nanovesicles of Anti-aging Composition

[0058] Place the liposome nanovesicles of the anti-aging composition prepared from Example 1 Formulas 1-4 at 30 °C for 28 days, sample at 0 day, 7 days, 14 days, and 28 days respectively, and conduct particle size distribution tests using a transmission electron microscope and dynamic light scattering (DLS) to observe whether the particle size of the liposome nanovesicles of the anti-aging composition changes.

[0059] The test results show that after the liposome nanovesicles of the anti-aging composition prepared by the above Formulas 1-4 are stored for a period of time, the change range of the particle size is within 2.8%, indicating that the liposome nanovesicles of the anti-aging composition of the present invention have good stability.

[0060] II. Permeability of Liposome Nanovesicles of Anti-aging Composition

[0061] Taking angoroside C as the observation object, the skin permeability of the active ingredient of the anti-aging composition improved by the liposome nanovesicles was evaluated. Specifically:

[0062] The liposome nanovesicles of the anti-aging composition prepared by Formula 1 of Example 1 (i.e., liposome nanovesicles containing angoroside C) were placed in the diffusion cell of an intelligent transdermal tester. A cellulose nitrate membrane similar to the stratum corneum was used as the permeation membrane, and a phosphate buffer solution with a pH of 7.2 was used as the receiving medium. The experiment was carried out at 37 °C and 100 rpm for 6 h, and 5 mL of the sample was taken at certain time intervals. The release concentration of angoroside C in the receiving medium was detected by HPLC. At the same time, an equal amount of buffer solution was added to the receiving pool to maintain the volume of the receiving medium unchanged.

[0063] Another ethanol solution of angoroside C with the same volume and concentration was taken as a control sample, and its permeability was measured.

[0064] Permeability = Ma / Mt × 100%, Ma: represents the mass of angoroside C in the receiving medium, Mt: represents the mass of angoroside C in the liposome nanovesicles or ethanol solution.

[0065] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0066] Table 1 Permeability of Angoroside C in Liposome Nanovesicles at Different Times

[0067]

[0068] The results show that the liposome nanovesicles can improve the permeability of angoroside C and increase the utilization rate of angoroside C. This result indicates that the liposome nanovesicles can improve the skin permeability of the active ingredient of the anti-aging composition.

[0069] III. Skin Irritation Detection

[0070] The anti-aging essence liquids prepared in Examples 2-5 and Comparative Examples 2-5 of the present invention were tested according to the relevant requirements and determination methods of "Human Skin Patch Test" in the "Hygiene Standard for Cosmetics" (2015 Edition) issued by the Ministry of Health. The skin reactions were observed at 0h, 6h, 12h, 24h, and 48h respectively. The experimental results of all volunteer subjects were negative, and no skin adverse reactions occurred. This result indicates that the essence liquid containing the anti-aging composition provided by the present invention will not cause allergic reactions, has low irritation, and no side effects.

[0071] IV. Detection of Anti-aging Effect

[0072] A number of female volunteer subjects, aged 40 - 55 years old, with healthy skin and no skin allergy history, meeting the subject selection criteria, were divided into 8 groups, with 10 people in each group, namely Examples 2-5 groups and Comparative Examples 2-5 groups. Among them, the Examples 2-5 groups used the essence liquids prepared in Examples 2-5, and the Comparative Examples 2-5 groups used the essence liquids prepared in Comparative Examples 2-5.

[0073] Usage method: After cleansing and toning the face in the morning and evening, take an appropriate amount of the essence liquid and apply it to the face, evenly spread and massage until absorbed. Before use and 28 days after use, use the skin elasticity Cotometer MPA580 test instrument manufactured by Courage+Khazaka GmbH (German CK company) to measure the skin elasticity R2 value of the stratum corneum in the cheek area of the subjects (the larger the R2 value, the better the skin elasticity), and the skin firmness F4 value (the smaller the F4 value, the better the skin firmness). Use VC98 to measure the Sa (roughness) and Sq (texture unevenness) values of the skin. The smaller the Sa and Sq values, the fewer skin wrinkles and the smoother the skin. According to the formula: change rate = (measurement value 28 days after use - measurement value before use) / measurement value before use * 100%, calculate the change rates of the above indicators, and the results are shown in Tables 2 and 3 below:

[0074] Table 2 Evaluation of the Effect of Anti-aging Essence Liquid on Increasing Skin Elasticity and Firmness

[0075] Group Change rate of R2 value (%) Change rate of F4 value (%) Example 2 28.74 -40.36 Example 3 26.22 -38.40 Example 4 24.15 -36.28 Example 5 27.40 -39.24 Comparative Example 2 24.06 -36.12 Comparative Example 3 17.05 -27.14 Comparative Example 4 18.61 -28.37 Comparative Example 5 21.76 -32.90

[0076] Table 3 Evaluation of the Anti-wrinkle Effect of Anti-aging Essence Liquid

[0077] Group Change rate of Sa value (%) Change rate of Sq value (%) Example 2 -22.07 -18.32 Example 3 -20.95 -16.46 Example 4 -19.72 -15.75 Example 5 -21.84 -17.20 Comparative Example 2 -19.26 -15.18 Comparative Example 3 -14.38 -11.24 Comparative Example 4 -15.44 -12.30 Comparative Example 5 -17.02 -13.07

[0078] Table 2 shows that after continuously using the anti-aging essence liquid prepared in Examples 2-5 for 28 days, the skin elasticity R2 value of the subjects increased by 24.15 - 28.74%, and the skin firmness F4 value decreased by 36.28 - 40.36%. This indicates that the composition can significantly improve skin elasticity and firmness.

[0079] Table 3 shows that after 28 days of continuous use of the anti-aging essence prepared in Examples 2-5, the Sa value of the skin of the subjects decreased by 19.72-22.07%, and the Sq value of the skin decreased by 15.75-18.32%, indicating that the composition can effectively reduce skin wrinkles.

[0080] It can be seen from Comparative Example 2 that compared with other hydrolyzed plant proteins (such as hydrolyzed soy protein), the anti-aging effect of the hydrolyzate of Brazil nut protein is more significant, and its compatibility with torreya grandis oil, angoroside C and carnosic acid is better. It can be seen from Comparative Examples 3-5 that when the hydrolyzate of Brazil nut protein, torreya grandis oil and angoroside C are not added to the formula respectively, the anti-aging effect is reduced to varying degrees. Therefore, the components of the anti-aging composition of the present invention have a synergistic effect.

[0081] The above are only the preferred embodiments of the present invention. It should be noted that the above preferred embodiments should not be construed as limiting the present invention, and the protection scope of the present invention should be subject to the scope defined by the claims. For those of ordinary skill in the art, without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention, several improvements and modifications can be made, and these improvements and modifications should also be regarded as the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. An anti-aging composition, characterized in that, It includes torreya grandis oil, Brazil nut protein hydrolysate, angoroside C, carnosic acid, and nanovesicle excipients. The mass ratio of the torreya grandis oil, Brazil nut protein hydrolysate, angoroside C, carnosic acid, and nanovesicle excipients is (2 - 7) : (1 - 5) : (0.5 - 2) : (0.5 - 1) : (85 - 95); The nanovesicle excipients include water, small molecule alcohols, lipids, and emulsifiers; the mass ratio of the water, small molecule alcohols, lipids, and emulsifiers is (60 - 75) : (2 - 10) : (10 - 20) : (1 - 4); the small molecule alcohols are at least one of ethanol, butylene glycol, 1,2 - hexanediol, and dipropylene glycol; the lipids are at least one of soy lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, and cholesterol; the emulsifiers are at least one of sophorolipid, sorbitan oleate, and cetearyl olivate.

2. The anti-aging composition according to claim 1, wherein It includes the following components by mass percentage: torreya grandis oil 2 - 7%, Brazil nut protein hydrolysate 1 - 5%, angoroside C 0.5 - 2%, carnosic acid 0.5 - 1%, ethanol 1 - 2%, butylene glycol 1 - 5%, 1,2 - hexanediol 1 - 3%, hydrogenated lecithin 10 - 15%, cholesterol 1 - 3%, sophorolipid 0.5 - 1%, sorbitan oleate 1 - 3%, and water 60 - 75%.

3. A method for preparing the anti-aging composition according to claim 2, characterized in that, It includes the following steps: (1) Stir the torreya grandis oil, hydrogenated lecithin, cholesterol, and sorbitan oleate at 55 - 60 °C until a homogeneous oil phase is formed; (2) Dissolve angoroside C and carnosic acid in ethanol, then add butylene glycol, 1,2 - hexanediol, sophorolipid, and water, stir and mix evenly, and then add Brazil nut protein hydrolysate, and stir thoroughly until a homogeneous aqueous phase is formed; (3) Add the oil phase prepared in step (1) to the aqueous phase prepared in step (2) for premixing, and stir at 1000 - 1500 rpm in a magnetic stirrer for 20 - 30 min to prepare a primary emulsion; (4) Introduce the primary emulsion into a high - pressure microfluidic nanodispersion homogenizer, and perform homogenization treatment at a pressure of 100 - 120 MPa. The homogenized dispersion is extruded through a filter membrane with an average pore size of 100 nm, and naturally cooled to room temperature to obtain liposomal nanovesicles.

4. Use of the anti - aging composition according to claim 1 or 2 in the preparation of cosmetics.

5. The application according to claim 4, wherein The cosmetics are aqueous solutions, emulsions, creams, essences, masks, or gels.

6. The application according to claim 4, characterized in that, The addition amount of the anti - aging composition in the cosmetics is 2 - 30% by mass fraction.

7. A skin care product, characterized in that, It includes the anti - aging composition according to claim 1 or 2.

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