Three-factor lipidosome, preparation method thereof and application of three-factor lipidosome in skin-nourishing air cushion cream

Abstract

The invention relates to a three-factor liposome as well as a preparation method and application thereof in skin-nourishing air cushion cream. The three-factor liposome is prepared from the following components in percentage by mass: 0.5 to 4 percent of hydrogenated lecithin, 30 to 70 percent of glycerol, 5 to 15 percent of grease, 0.1 to 0.5 percent of cholesterol, 1 to 10 percent of bose, 1 to 10 percent of Ectoine, 0.05 to 0.5 percent of ergothioneine, 0.1 to 1 percent of bisabolol, 0.1 to 1 percent of auxiliaries and the balance of solvent. The glassine is selected from one or two of S-type hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and R-type hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol. The invention further discloses a preparation method of the glassine. The product disclosed by the invention is narrow in particle size distribution and higher in percutaneous absorption rate, can exert higher effects of relieving and repairing skin barrier and moisturizing and moisturizing than a common three-factor product, can help to maintain makeup, resist darkness and oxidation while nourishing the skin, overcomes the defects in the prior art, has great technical perspectiveness and market tonality, and has a good application prospect.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a tri-factor liposome and a preparation method thereof and application thereof in a skin care air cushion cream. Background Art

[0002] Air cushion cream is a BB powder cream with sponge and powder puff. Its function is to cover blemishes, adjust skin tone, and hide pores. The product design is easy to carry, and you can quickly apply and touch up makeup anytime and anywhere. BB powder cream simulates the principle of honeycomb honey storage through the densely porous sponge powder core, which can absorb the foundation containing high-concentration maintenance essence and fully release the skin-nourishing ingredients after applying it on the face.

[0003] After the cushion cream was launched on the market, it became popular in Asian countries, Europe and the United States due to its innovation, easy to carry and touch-up, and good nude makeup feeling. After more than ten years of updates and iterations, it basically occupies half of the base makeup / makeup market. Its market potential is huge. There are also many domestic brands and factories conducting research and micro-innovation on it. So far, there are many types of products, such as long-lasting makeup type, concealer type, sunscreen type, and skin care type.

[0004] Skin care air cushion cream, due to its basic characteristics of oil-in-water matrix, the skin care ingredients added therein, if they are water-soluble ingredients, such as panthenol, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, ginseng extract, Centella asiatica extract, purslane extract, peptides, vitamin C derivatives, etc., because the stratum corneum of the outermost layer of human skin is an oily barrier, such water-soluble skin care ingredients cannot penetrate into the bottom layer of the skin to exert their soothing, repairing, wrinkle-removing and other skin care effects. If it is an oil-soluble ingredient, such as vitamin E, coenzyme Q10, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 4-butylresorcinol, retinol derivatives, etc., due to their large molecular weight, they cannot pass through the stratum corneum barrier to exert their maximum effect. At the same time, due to factors such as their lack of lightness on the skin, their own color or easy discoloration, etc., their efficacy application in skin care air cushion cream is very limited. How to improve the absorption effect of skin care air cushion cream and give full play to its skin care function is a difficult problem faced by the current industry.

[0005] Therefore, how to provide a skin care air cushion cream product that meets the current market demand is a problem that urgently needs to be solved in this field. Summary of the invention

[0006] In order to solve the deficiencies of the prior art, the present invention provides a three-factor liposome and a skin care air cushion cream based on the three-factor liposome. The present invention adopts a compound of ingredients such as bosine, ectoine, ergothioneine, cholesterol, etc., prepares the three-factor liposome by a high-pressure microfluidization process, and applies it to the skin care air cushion cream. The product of the present invention has a narrow particle size distribution and a higher transdermal absorption rate. It can exert a higher soothing, skin barrier repair, and moisturizing effect than ordinary three-factor products. It can help to maintain makeup, resist dullness, and resist oxidation while nourishing the skin, overcome the defects of the prior art, and is highly technically forward-looking and market-oriented, with good application prospects.

[0007] One object of the present invention is to provide a three-factor liposome, wherein the three-factor liposome comprises the following components in mass fractions:

[0008]

[0009]

[0010] Preferably, the liposomes include the following components by mass fraction:

[0011]

[0012] Furthermore, the benzophenone is selected from one or both of S-type hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and R-type hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol.

[0013] Furthermore, the oil is selected from one or more of caprylic / capric triglyceride, ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecanol, isononyl isononanoate, jojoba oil, meadowfoam seed oil, olive oil, hydrogenated polydecene, and polydimethylsiloxane.

[0014] Furthermore, the auxiliary agent includes a preservative, and the preservative is selected from one or more of phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, and caprylyl glycol.

[0015] Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing the above-mentioned three-factor liposome, wherein the method for preparing the three-factor liposome comprises the following steps:

[0016] S1. Mix hydrogenated lecithin and glycerol, heat to 80-85° C., and stir evenly to obtain an alcohol phase;

[0017] S2, mixing the oil and cholesterol, heating to 80-85° C., and stirring evenly to obtain an oil phase;

[0018] S3, mixing the alcohol phase and the oil phase, then adding a solvent and homogenizing to obtain a material body;

[0019] S4, after cooling the material to 45-55°C, adding bisabolol, ectoine, ergothioneine, bisabolol and auxiliary agents, and homogenizing; and then performing cyclic high-pressure homogenization to obtain tri-factor liposomes.

[0020] Furthermore, in step S3, the homogenization temperature is 80-85° C. and the rotation speed is 8000-10000 rpm.

[0021] Further, in step S4, the homogenization speed is 8000-10000 rpm;

[0022] The feed temperature of the cyclic high-pressure homogenization is 60-70° C., the pressure is 10,000-30,000 psi, and the number of cycles is 2-5 times.

[0023] Another object of the present invention is to provide the use of the above-mentioned three-factor liposome in a skin care air cushion cream, wherein the skin care air cushion cream comprises the following components in mass fraction:

[0024]

[0025] Further, the polysiloxane is selected from one or more of PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, triethoxycaprylylsilane, and trimethylsiloxysilicate;

[0026] The oil is selected from one or more of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, pentaerythritol tetra(ethylhexanoate), and castor oil.

[0027] Furthermore, the auxiliary agent is selected from one or more of hydroxide, silica, mica, inorganic salt, preservative, flavor, antioxidant, film former, and sodium hyaluronate.

[0028] Furthermore, the skin care air cushion cream includes the following ingredients in mass fractions:

[0029]

[0030]

[0031] Preferably, the toner is composed of titanium dioxide, yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide and black iron oxide;

[0032] More preferably, titanium dioxide is CI 77891 treated with triethoxyoctylsilane and aluminum hydroxide; yellow iron oxide is CI 77492 treated with triethoxyoctylsilane; red iron oxide is CI 77491 treated with triethoxyoctylsilane; and black iron oxide is CI 77499 treated with triethoxyoctylsilane.

[0033] Preferably, the preservative is a combination of glyceryl caprylate, methylpropanediol, caprylhydroxamic acid, and ethylhexylglycerin.

[0034] The present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0035] The present invention adopts the compounding of ingredients such as hydrogenated lecithin, cholesterol, bisabolol, ectoine, ergothioneine, and bosaiyin, and three-factor liposomes are prepared by high-pressure microfluidization process, and the ingredients have a narrower particle size distribution. Under the joint action of multiple active ingredients, the three-factor ingredients are wrapped with liposomes, and the transdermal absorption rate of ectoine, ergothioneine, and bosaiyin is effectively improved. After the three-factor liposomes are applied to the air cushion cream, due to the oil-in-water property of the air cushion cream itself, the water-soluble active ingredients can be promoted to penetrate deep into the skin, so as to exert its moisturizing, soothing, repairing skin barrier, anti-oxidation, anti-dullness and other effects, and the greasy feeling of oil-soluble active ingredients is avoided when in use, and the product has obvious color or easy to change color. The present invention provides a kind of skin care air cushion cream with moisturizing, soothing, repairing skin barrier, anti-oxidation, anti-dullness, light skin feel, easy to make up and not easy to take off makeup to the market, solves the problems existing in the prior art, and has good application prospects. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0036] In order to more clearly illustrate the technical solution of the present invention, the following examples are listed. Unless otherwise stated, the raw materials, reactions and post-treatment methods shown in the examples are common raw materials on the market and technical methods well known to those skilled in the art.

[0037] The following raw materials are used in the embodiments of the present invention:

[0038] Hydrogenated lecithin, produced by Lipoid GmbH; glycerin, produced by PALMEDIA (M) SDN. BHD; oil, preferably caprylic / capric triglyceride, produced by PALM-OLEO (KLANG) SDN. BHD.; cholesterol, produced by NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL CO., LTD.; bosacein, S-hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, commercially available; ectoine, commercially available; ergothioneine, commercially available; preservative, preferably 1,2-pentanediol, produced by COSBON CO., LTD.; bisabolol, produced by BASF (China) Co., Ltd.

[0039] PEG-10 polydimethicone, manufactured by Shin-Etsu of Japan; polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, manufactured by Evonik Operations GmbH; lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethicone, manufactured by Shin-Etsu of Japan; cyclopentasiloxane, manufactured by Shin-Etsu of Japan; trimethylsiloxysilicate, manufactured by Wacker Chemical (China) Co., Ltd.; disteardimonium hectorite, manufactured by Haimingsi; color powder, commercially available; glycerin, manufactured by PALMEDIA(M)SDN.BHD; butylene glycol, manufactured by OQ Chemicals Corporation; castor oil, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, pentaerythrityl tetra(ethylhexanoate), silica, mica, sodium hyaluronate, magnesium sulfate, preservatives, fragrance, commercially available.

[0040] The components and contents of the liposomes of Examples 1-4 are shown in Table 1.

[0041] Table 1 Specific components of the three-factor liposomes in the embodiment

[0042]

[0043]

[0044] The preparation method of the liposome of the embodiment comprises the following steps:

[0045] S1. Weigh the ingredients according to the above mass fractions, mix the hydrogenated lecithin and glycerol, heat to 85°C, and stir for 30 minutes to obtain an alcohol phase;

[0046] S2, caprylic / capric triglyceride and cholesterol are mixed, heated to 85° C., stirred and dissolved to obtain an oil phase;

[0047] S3, mixing the alcohol phase and the oil phase, adding water, and homogenizing at 85° C. with an IKA homogenizer at a speed of 10,000 rpm to obtain a material body;

[0048] S4, after the material is stirred and cooled to 50°C, bosacein, ectoine, ergothioneine, bisabolol and 1,2-pentanediol are added, and homogenized at a speed of 10000 rpm by an IKA homogenizer until uniform; then, high-pressure microfluidizer is used to circulate high-pressure homogenization 4 times at a pressure of 20000 psi, with the initial feeding temperature of 60°C, and the three-factor liposomes are obtained by discharging.

[0049] Comparative Examples 1-5 were set based on the embodiments. The ingredients and contents of the liposomes in the comparative examples are shown in Table 2.

[0050] Table 2 Comparative Example of three-factor liposome specific composition

[0051]

[0052] The preparation methods of Comparative Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 5 are the same as those of the embodiment. Comparative Example 4 is prepared by using a common homogenization technology, which includes the following steps:

[0053] S1. Weigh the ingredients according to the above mass fractions, mix the hydrogenated lecithin and glycerol, heat to 85°C, and stir for 30 minutes to obtain an alcohol phase;

[0054] S2, caprylic / capric triglyceride and cholesterol are mixed, heated to 85° C., stirred and dissolved to obtain an oil phase;

[0055] S3, mixing the alcohol phase and the oil phase, adding water, and homogenizing at 85° C. with an IKA homogenizer at a speed of 10,000 rpm to obtain a material body;

[0056] S4, after stirring and cooling the material to 50°C, add benzoin, ectoine, ergothioneine, bisabolol and 1,2-pentanediol, and homogenize with an IKA homogenizer at a speed of 10000 rpm until uniform; discharge the material to obtain a common homogeneous product.

[0057] The tri-factor liposome prepared in Example 1 was applied to a skin care air cushion cream. The ingredients and contents of the skin care air cushion creams of Application Examples 1-4 are shown in Table 3.

[0058] Table 3 Specific ingredients of skin care air cushion cream in application example

[0059]

[0060]

[0061] The preparation method of the skin care air cushion cream of the application example comprises the following steps:

[0062] L1. Weigh the ingredients according to the above mass fractions, mix PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, pentaerythritol tetra(ethylhexanoate), castor oil, trimethylsiloxysilicate, disteardimonium hectorite, color powder, silica, and mica, and homogenize with an IKA homogenizer at a speed of 7000 rpm until uniformly dispersed, and then heat to 85°C;

[0063] L2. Mix glycerin, butylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, magnesium sulfate and water, and homogenize with an IKA homogenizer at 7000 rpm until the mixture is evenly dispersed, and then heat to 85°C;

[0064] L3, adding the product of step L2 into the product of step L1, and homogenizing with an IKA homogenizer at 85°C and 7000 rpm for 3 min;

[0065] L4. Cool the product of step L3 to 50°C, add liposomes, preservatives and flavors, homogenize with an IKA homogenizer at 4000 rpm for 2 minutes, then stir for 2 minutes to obtain a skin care air cushion cream.

[0066] Based on the application examples, comparative application examples 1-4 are set up, and the ingredients and contents of the skin care air cushion creams of the comparative application examples are shown in Table 4.

[0067] Table 4 Specific ingredients of skin care air cushion cream in comparative application examples

[0068]

[0069]

[0070] The preparation method of the comparative application example is the same as that of the application example, and the comparative application example 4 uses the conventional tert-butyl liposome prepared by ordinary homogenization technology in comparative example 4 to replace the tert-butyl liposome.

[0071] Test Example 1

[0072] The performance of the liposomes prepared in the examples and comparative examples was tested.

[0073] 1. Soothing effect test: Cell test

[0074] Experimental principle: After stimulating HaCaT keratinocytes with SDS, the sample is applied to the keratinocytes, and the soothing effect of the sample is evaluated by detecting the changes in cell viability of the keratinocytes;

[0075] Experimental steps: (1) Cell activity test; (2) Keratinocyte anti-SDS stimulation test: Culture cells routinely and inoculate the cell suspension into a 96-well cell culture plate. Remove the culture plate, discard the original culture medium in the wells, add PBS to each well for washing, add maintenance culture medium to each well of the blank control group and model group, and add maintenance culture medium containing tri-factor liposome sample (150 μL) to the other groups. Then add maintenance culture medium containing MTT to each well. Remove the liquid in the wells, add DMSO to each well, place it on an oscillator, and measure the absorbance at 570 nm on an ELISA reader.

[0076] Data analysis: The data were analyzed using SPSS and presented as mean ± SD. The difference was considered statistically significant if p < 0.05.

[0077] 2. Moisturizing effect test: instrument measurement method

[0078] Experimental principle: Use the instrument to directly test the water content in human skin, and compare the skin water content before and after use to intuitively judge the moisturizing effect of the sample;

[0079] Experimental steps: (1) Select 9 volunteers, wash their faces with water and wait for natural drying, and sit in a room at 25℃ / humidity 65-70% for 2 hours; (2) Use MPA580 skin moisture test probe to test the moisture content of the volunteers before using the samples; (3) After using the samples for 30 minutes, use MPA580 skin moisture test probe to test the moisture content of the volunteers after using the samples;

[0080] Data analysis, by the mean value method, was used to determine the moisturizing efficacy of the samples.

[0081] 3. Skin barrier repair efficacy test: Questionnaire

[0082] Experimental principle: Through lactic acid stimulation test, volunteers with sensitive skin are screened, and then through volunteer trials, subjective evaluation of soothing and removing redness, skin itching, moisturizing performance, and skin smoothness is conducted to characterize the sample's skin barrier repair efficacy verification, and the skin barrier repair efficacy of the sample is determined by counting method;

[0083] Experimental steps: (1) 45 volunteers who had undergone the lactic acid stinging test were selected and divided into 9 groups, with 5 people in each group, and the three-factor liposomes prepared in the embodiment or the comparative example were respectively used; (2) The volunteers washed their faces with warm water every morning and evening, waited for the skin to dry naturally, and then applied the sample. After continuous application for 14 days, subjective evaluation was performed based on four dimensions, including soothing and removing redness, skin itching, moisturizing performance, and skin smoothness. If all four dimensions were significantly improved, it was determined that the sample had the effect of repairing the skin barrier;

[0084] Data analysis: Through the counting method, more than half of the volunteers in each group showed significant improvement after using the samples, which indicates that the samples have the effect of repairing the skin barrier.

[0085] The test data is processed and expressed as a score of 1-5, where 1-2 represents no effect or very poor effect, and 3-5 represents visible effect or excellent effect.

[0086] The test results are shown in Table 5.

[0087] Table 5 Three-factor liposome performance test results

[0088]

[0089]

[0090] According to the above data, it can be seen that the present invention adopts botoxine, ectoine, ergothioneine, cholesterol and other ingredients to be compounded in a specific ratio and prepared into liposomes, which can significantly improve the soothing, moisturizing and skin barrier repair effects of the product. However, the comparative example deletes or replaces the ingredients, or adopts a conventional homogenization process, and the technical effect is reduced, and the ideal performance improvement cannot be obtained.

[0091] Test Example 2

[0092] The performance of the skin care air cushion cream prepared in the corresponding application example and the comparative application example was tested.

[0093] 40 volunteers were selected and divided into 8 groups, with 5 people in each group, to try the skin care air cushion cream prepared by the application example or the comparative application example. After washing their faces with warm water and drying them naturally, the volunteers applied the skin care air cushion cream samples on their faces with a puff. The skin smoothness, makeup removal, makeup oxidation, and makeup dullness were observed at 1h, 4h, 6h, and 8h, and photos were taken and compared using VISA and recorded.

[0094] The data were analyzed using a counting unit of 1-5. A score of 1-2 meant no effect or no improvement in skin smoothness, makeup removal, makeup oxidation, and makeup dullness; a score of 3-5 meant varying degrees of improvement in skin smoothness, makeup removal, makeup oxidation, and makeup dullness.

[0095] The test results are shown in Table 6.

[0096] Table 6 Skin care air cushion cream performance test results

[0097]

[0098]

[0099] According to Table 6, it can be concluded that application examples 1-4 using Tri-Fluor liposome as a component have good performance, and the skin smoothness, makeup removal degree, makeup oxidation degree, and makeup dullness degree have been significantly improved. The comparative application examples deleted or replaced Tri-Fluor liposome. Although more long-lasting ingredients (trimethylsiloxysilicate, silica, mica) and moisturizing ingredients (pentaerythritol tetra(ethylhexanoate), castor oil, glycerin, butylene glycol) were added, compared with the application examples containing Tri-Fluor liposome air cushion, the improvement effects of its long-lasting makeup, anti-oxidation, anti-dullness and other performances were not ideal.

[0100] It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the present invention is not limited to the details of the exemplary embodiments described above and that the present invention can be implemented in other specific forms without departing from the spirit or essential features of the present invention. Therefore, the embodiments should be considered exemplary and non-restrictive in all respects, and the scope of the present invention is defined by the appended claims rather than the above description, and it is intended that all changes falling within the meaning and scope of the equivalent elements of the claims be included in the present invention.

[0101] In addition, it should be understood that although the present specification is described according to implementation modes, not every implementation mode contains only one independent technical solution. This description of the specification is only for the sake of clarity. Those skilled in the art should regard the specification as a whole. The technical solutions in each embodiment may also be appropriately combined to form other implementation modes that can be understood by those skilled in the art.

Claims

1. A three-factor liposome, characterized in that The three-factor liposomes include the following components by mass fraction:

2. The liposome according to claim 1, characterized in that: The benzophenone is selected from one or both of S-type hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and R-type hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol.

3. The liposome according to claim 1, characterized in that: The oil is selected from one or more of caprylic / capric triglyceride, ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecanol, isononyl isononanoate, jojoba oil, meadowfoam seed oil, olive oil, hydrogenated polydecene, and polydimethylsiloxane.

4. The liposome according to claim 1, characterized in that: The auxiliary agent includes a preservative, and the preservative is selected from one or more of phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, and caprylyl glycol.

5. The method for preparing the tri-factor liposome according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that: The preparation method of the tri-factor liposome comprises the following steps: S1. Mix hydrogenated lecithin and glycerol, heat to 80-85° C., and stir evenly to obtain an alcohol phase; S2, mixing the oil and cholesterol, heating to 80-85° C., and stirring evenly to obtain an oil phase; S3, mixing the alcohol phase and the oil phase, then adding a solvent and homogenizing to obtain a material body; S4, after cooling the material to 45-55°C, adding bisabolol, ectoine, ergothioneine, bisabolol and auxiliary agents, and homogenizing; and then performing cyclic high-pressure homogenization to obtain tri-factor liposomes.

6. The method for preparing the tri-factor liposome according to claim 5, characterized in that: In step S3, the homogenization temperature is 80-85°C and the rotation speed is 8000-10000rpm.

7. The method for preparing the tri-factor liposome according to claim 5, characterized in that: In step S4, the homogenization speed is 8000-10000 rpm; The feed temperature of the cyclic high-pressure homogenization is 60-70° C., the pressure is 10,000-30,000 psi, and the number of cycles is 2-5 times.

8. The use of the tri-factor liposome according to any one of claims 1 to 4 in a skin care air cushion cream, characterized in that: The skin care air cushion cream comprises the following ingredients by mass fraction:

9. The use of the tri-factor liposome in skin care air cushion cream according to claim 8, characterized in that: The polysiloxane is selected from one or more of PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, triethoxycaprylylsilane, and trimethylsiloxysilicate; The oil is selected from one or more of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, pentaerythritol tetra(ethylhexanoate), and castor oil.

10. The use of the tri-factor liposome in skin care air cushion cream according to claim 8, characterized in that: The auxiliary agent is selected from one or more of hydroxide, silica, mica, inorganic salt, preservative, flavor, antioxidant, film former, and sodium hyaluronate.

Images