Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising sunflower wax, specific fatty alcohol, alkyl-cellulose and tribehenin

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition in flexible solid form and comprising: a) sunflower wax; b) at least 15 mass%, relative to the total mass of the composition, of a branched primary monoalcohol comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably octyldodecanol; c) an alkyl-cellulose, the residues of the alkyl group of which comprise from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably ethyl-cellulose; and d) tribehenin. The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic composition as defined above for protecting, caring for and / or making up the lips.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular cosmetics for protecting, caring for and / or making up the lips, more specifically to the field of anhydrous cosmetic compositions such as anhydrous lip balms.

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for protecting, caring for or making up lips, the cosmetic composition comprising sunflower wax, specific fatty alcohols, alkyl-cellulose and tribehenin, and more particularly to a composition that is both consistent and flexible. The present invention also relates to the use of the composition for protecting, caring for and / or making up lips. Background Art

[0003] Lipstick is one of the most popular cosmetic products and has become a must-have for many consumers, even those who are not interested in wearing makeup. Lipsticks can be used to add shine, light color, and a touch of color and charm to the lips. But they are also formulated to protect, repair and nourish the lips, and prevent lip dehydration.

[0004] The cutaneous layer of the lips is particularly thin and sensitive and is therefore more vulnerable to attacks from various external conditions (heat, dryness, cold, UV rays, pollution, etc.). In addition, various substances (pollutants and / or cosmetic elements) may irritate the skin on the lips, weakening the cutaneous barrier by absorbing these substances, promoting dehydration of the lips and / or preventing their regeneration. It is therefore necessary to regularly protect the lips, nourish them, maintain their moisture level and / or repair chapped lips, so that they can maintain their suppleness and softness for a long time.

[0005] Products configured as lip care vary in ingredients, textures, and appearance. They can be packaged in sticks, tubes, or cans so that they can be taken anywhere and are convenient to use. They also vary greatly in their performance in protecting, nourishing, moisturizing, and / or soothing the lips. When the skin on the lips is very fragile, a soft-textured lipstick (e.g., in a tube with an application end piece, or applied with fingers in a can) is preferable to a traditional stick lip balm, which may be more painful to apply. It is also desirable to have satisfactory sensory properties, such as comfort during application (easy to apply, melt and / or smooth, light, and evenly deposited during application, etc.) and comfort during use (comfortable, not too sticky, sufficiently consistent deposition, enveloping sensation). Their stability over time also varies greatly.

[0006] There are many high-performance soft anhydrous compositions on the market that are sold in squeezable tubes, such as URIAGE's Bariéderm Cica Lip Balm ("Cica Lip Repair Balm"), BIODERMA's Baume Réparateur Lèvres Atoderm ("Repairing Lip Balm"), LANEIGE's Baume Lèvres Brillant (“Lip Gloss”) or DIOR ADDICT’s Soin Instant Colour Enhancing Oil Gel (“Lip Gloss”).

[0007] But the texture (usually in the form of soft gels) and the performance of these products are usually associated with the presence of petrochemicals such as mineral oil, petroleum jelly, paraffin or plastic powders (nylon, polyethylene, etc.), which may now be considered undesirable by consumers. For example, petroleum jelly (also known as petroleum jelly or paraffin oil) is a gel composed of oils and waxes of mineral origin. It has good oil retention capacity, which contributes to the stability of anhydrous formulations. In addition, its high melting point prevents the composition from liquefying in hot climates. Petroleum jelly also has emollient properties, limits dehydration and promotes rapid healing of the skin. Hydrogenated polyisobutene is also commonly used in soft lipsticks of this type because of its feel, the texture it provides (consistency comparable to that of cream, easy to apply), its ability to form an impermeable film on the skin surface, its emollient properties and its ability to add gloss to lip gloss formulations. The removal of this type of petrochemical generally leads to a deterioration in the organoleptic properties (appearance, touch, sensation on the lips, loss of consistency when applied or even becoming too liquid), and also affects the rheological properties of the composition (more or less ease with which the product recovers by squeezing the orifice of the tube), its stability over time and its efficacy (protective, nourishing and anti-dehydration action).

[0008] There are anhydrous compositions based on butters or waxes of natural origin, but they are generally unpleasant to use (not easy to spread, either too soft or too hard, poor recovery of the product through the orifice of the squeeze tube, requiring excessive force from the user, loss of consistency when applied, etc.) and / or poorly effective (protective, repairing, anti-dehydration effect, etc.). These compositions also often present stability problems with release, exudation and / or anomalous recrystallization phenomena over time, resulting in a granular texture or the presence of particles visible to the naked eye. Without wishing to be bound by any one theory, this can be explained in part by the polymorphism of waxes of natural origin, in particular triglyceride-based waxes (ability to crystallize in several different structures and therefore present various crystalline forms, which can lead to the growth and / or nucleation of grains depending on the temperature variations to which the composition may be exposed). In addition, waxes of natural origin are more susceptible to variations in their composition and in their quality between batches, which can affect the reproducibility of the stability of the formulation. Finally, these compositions often have a waxy appearance that is less pleasing and attractive to consumers, who are more likely to choose compositions having a jelly-like, more translucent, or even milky appearance.

[0009] Furthermore, problems of recrystallization and / or oil release are even more easily observed in flexible solids which usually contain large amounts of liquid fatty compounds. Therefore, the solid network may even more easily reorganize at temperatures of 50°C or lower (temperatures usually used for stability testing and which may also be reached under transport and storage conditions).

[0010] This means that formulating products that are more respectful of the environment, especially those with a soft texture, while maintaining their appeal and effectiveness, is a real challenge from the perspective of efficacy, sensory and stability. The use of ingredients of natural origin can have a significant impact not only on the sensory qualities of a cosmetic product (texture is perceived as difficult to spread or hinders application), but also on its stability and homogeneity over time (oily repulsion, uncontrolled crystallization, loss of consistency or thinning). Despite their increasing concern for the environment, consumers are also very demanding in terms of sensory qualities and continue to seek products that are easy to apply, have a pleasant texture (melts, smooth, not sticky or mushy to the touch, forms a thick film on the lips, enveloping feeling) and are very effective throughout the product's lifespan.

[0011] Therefore, there is still a need for more natural soft cosmetic compositions for lips, especially those that do not contain compounds of petrochemical origin (such as mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin or plastic powders). In particular, there is a need for cosmetic compositions comprising, for example, at least 75% of ingredients of natural origin, which maintain high standards of sensory properties and stability.

[0012] There is also a need to formulate lip cosmetic compositions that have effective protection and repair effects that last throughout the day, relieve discomfort and tightness very quickly, and help keep the lips moisturized over time.

[0013] There is also a need to formulate cosmetic compositions having very good sensory properties, in particular a texture that is thick and velvety and forms a sufficiently thick film on the lips that is pleasant to wear and not sticky.

[0014] There is also a need for a cosmetic composition that is flexible enough to be easy to use, collect and apply or that can be easily dispensed by squeezing the orifice of a tube (without requiring excessive pressure to release the composition).

[0015] There is also a need to formulate cosmetic compositions having satisfactory aesthetic properties, in particular a gelled or even milky (non-waxy) visual appearance and a satisfactory gloss when applied to the lips.

[0016] At the same time, there is a need for cosmetic compositions that have good stability over time (control of release or crystallization phenomena, maintenance of consistency and texture) and that remain homogeneous throughout the product shelf life, in particular several months after opening by the end user.

[0017] Applicants, to their credit, have surprisingly come up with a novel cosmetic composition that solves all of these problems. Summary of the invention

[0018] According to a first aspect, the present invention aims to provide an anhydrous cosmetic composition in a flexible solid form, the cosmetic composition comprising:

[0019] a) Sunflower wax;

[0020] b) at least 15% by mass of a branched primary monoalcohol containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably octyldodecanol, relative to the total mass of the composition;

[0021] c) alkyl-cellulose, the residue of the alkyl group of which contains 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably ethyl-cellulose; and

[0022] d) Three Mountain Spirits.

[0023] After extensive research, the inventors have demonstrated that it is possible to provide a cosmetic composition with a high content of ingredients of natural origin that is both effective, organoleptic and stable over time, without the use of petrochemical compounds or plastic powders.

[0024] The composition according to the present invention has a solid and flexible texture that is easily deformed, for example, an oily gel type or a paste-like oily composition type.

[0025] The composition according to the invention is easy to collect (for example with fingers, with a spatula or by squeezing the orifice of the tube). The texture of the composition is flexible enough to allow recovery through a 2 mm orifice without requiring the user to squeeze the tube with particular force.

[0026] Surprisingly, the specific combination of ingredients means that the performance criteria are met to have a protective, nourishing and repairing effect, forming a sufficiently thick protective film on the lips. The composition according to the invention protects and maintains the lips from dryness and irritation and leaves them soft, smooth and nourished.

[0027] Surprisingly, the combination according to the invention allows to obtain a melting gel texture close to that obtained with fatty substances of petrochemical origin. More specifically, the composition according to the invention has very good organoleptic properties, has a thick and silky lipstick texture and is easy to apply on the skin, having good glide. The texture is soft and silky when applied, allowing it to be deposited on the lips in the form of a thick, enveloping film. In use, the composition according to the invention also has a pleasant wearing sensation, is not very sticky and is not "stringy".

[0028] Surprisingly, despite the absence of petrochemical compounds, the composition according to the invention has a gelled, non-waxy and even milky appearance when leaving the tubular (in a layer with a thickness of about 2 mm). The texture and appearance of the composition of the invention are quite unusual for compositions with a high content of ingredients of natural origin, which usually have a waxy appearance.

[0029] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention meets the criteria of use and stability: the combination allows to obtain an elastic solid with good stability over time (particularly after storage under accelerated conditions at 50° C. and temperature cycles). The composition remains homogeneous and does not release or leak oil. The flexible solid composition according to the invention also has a constant consistency over time. The specific combination according to the invention also allows to better control the reproducibility of the stability by overcoming the variations caused by the naturalness of the ingredients (particularly the wax).

[0030] Finally, the composition according to the invention respects the delicate skin, including that of the lips, and meets safety and preservation requirements by allowing the use of preservatives to be limited or even eliminated.

[0031] The composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application to the skin, in particular to the lips. It can be used to protect, care for and / or make up the lips. It can be packaged in a jar and / or tube.

[0032] Another subject of the invention is the use of a cosmetic composition as defined above for protecting, caring for and / or making up the lips. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0033] The general terms used in this article are defined as follows.

[0034] The expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more".

[0035] The expression "comprising" includes the expression "consisting of".

[0036] The expression "from ... to ..." must be understood as including all of the above.

[0037] The expressions “between... and...”, “less than” or “greater than” shall be understood as meaning “exclusive”.

[0038] The name "INCI" refers to the name of a cosmetic ingredient according to the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.

[0039] For the purposes of the present invention, a "cosmetic composition" is a composition suitable for external topical application. It comprises a cosmetically acceptable support, i.e. a support compatible with the skin, in particular the lips. The cosmetic composition according to the invention is a lip care and / or makeup product. The cosmetic composition may also contain one or more additives including active ingredients, emollients and fragrances. It may have moisturizing, soothing and / or protective properties on the lips. It may also promote lip repair.

[0040] The term "solid" refers to the state of the composition at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). This means that the composition has a sufficiently high consistency to maintain its shape during storage under these conditions. In other words, the composition does not flow under its own weight. In particular, when the composition is packaged in a can at room temperature (25°C) (e.g., 150 g of the composition is packaged in a can with a diameter of 6 cm) and the can is inverted, the composition does not flow under its own weight for at least 12 hours, preferably at least 24 hours.

[0041] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a flexible solid.

[0042] The so-called "soft solid" refers specifically to a texture that does not flow under its own weight, but deforms under pressure (e.g., pressure applied by fingers). Generally, its consistency is plastic and easy to handle, such as an ointment or butter (without fatty properties). The dosage of the composition is easily controlled, so only the required amount of product is taken. It can also easily escape through the orifice of the tubular member by applying slight pressure to the tubular member (e.g., through an orifice of about 2 mm in diameter without the user having to apply too much force).

[0043] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention requires a pressure of 15 to 40 Newtons (N), preferably 15 to 30 N, more preferably 15 to 25 N, to emerge through an orifice of 1.5 mm, the pressure being measured at 22° C. and atmospheric pressure (1.013*105 Pa) (e.g., using an Ametek LS1 dynamometer (from LLOYD)). For example, the measurement can be performed by compressing a pressure tubular piece having an orifice of 1.5 mm and containing the composition at a speed of 165 mm / min using the above dynamometer.

[0044] Preferably, the composition of the invention has a viscosity of at most 500.000 mPa.s, preferably at most 450.000 mPa.s at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013*105 Pa), for example measured using a Brookfield RV viscometer equipped with a Helipath system (with an M95 mobile device rotating at a speed of 10 rpm or per minute).

[0045] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity of at least 150.000 mPa.s, preferably at least 200.000 mPa.s, better still at least 300.000 mPa.s at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013*105 Pa). For example, it is measured using a Brookfield RV viscometer equipped with a Helipath system (with an M95 mobile device rotating at a speed of 10 rpm or per minute).

[0046] More preferably, the viscosity of the composition according to the invention at 20° C. and atmospheric pressure (1.013*105 Pa) ranges from 150.000 to 500.000 mPa.s, in particular from 200.000 to 500.000 mPa.s, better still from 300.000 to 450.000 mPa.s, for example, measured using a Brookfield RV viscometer equipped with a Helipath system (with an M95 mobile device rotating at a speed of 10 rpm or per minute).

[0047] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a dropping point below 55° C., preferably below 50° C. Solid compositions with relatively low dropping points (below 50° C.) are generally more flexible than solid compositions with higher dropping points. Preferably, the dropping point of the composition according to the invention is between 38° C. and 50° C., more preferably between 43° C. and 46° C.

[0048] The dropping point is the temperature at which the molten product (in its liquid state) drips from a gradually heated calibrated cup (with a hole in the bottom). The dropping point is usually determined according to ASTM-D 3954 using a Metler Toledo DP70 instrument (dropping point system). More specifically, the composition is heated until all ingredients are melted and then poured into a calibrated cup. The cup is left at room temperature (25°C) for at least 20 minutes before measuring the dropping point. The cup is then placed in the DP70 measuring device and heated at a rate of 1°C per minute.

[0049] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 70% of ingredients of natural origin, preferably at least 75% of ingredients of natural origin. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 70% of ingredients of natural origin, preferably at least 75% of ingredients of natural origin according to standard NF ISO 16128. The percentage of natural ingredients here is calculated according to the principles of standard NF ISO 16128. Surprisingly, the specific combination of ingredients determined by the inventors makes it possible to obtain a composition with a high degree of naturalness, combining the organoleptic, performance and stability properties of a composition containing ingredients of petrochemical origin.

[0050] For the purposes of the present invention, a "natural" ingredient is in particular an ingredient (or substance) that occurs in nature (obtained from plants, animals, microorganisms or minerals), has not been processed or has been obtained only by physical processing. For example, the ingredient may be extracted and / or processed mechanically or by gravity, by dissolution in water, by maceration, by extraction with water, by distillation, by grinding, by pressure, by flotation, by precipitation, by filtration, etc. The naturalness index of a natural ingredient determined according to standard NF ISO n 16128 (or "Natural Origin Index") is 1 (100% natural origin). Examples of natural ingredients include water, plant extracts using natural solvents (water or other natural solvents), parts of plants or seeds, vegetable oils, mineral ingredients, etc.

[0051] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "naturally derived" ingredients refers in particular to natural ingredients that have been extracted and / or chemically processed and have undergone a limited number of small-scale chemical transformations. These chemical transformations and processing may be carried out according to the principles of green chemistry (as opposed to petrochemical processes involving petroleum derivatives) and are listed, for example, in standard NF ISO n 16128. The naturalness index of a "naturally derived" ingredient calculated according to standard NF ISO n 16128 is greater than 0.5 (i.e. more than 50% of its molecular weight originates from nature).

[0052] The term "ingredients of natural origin" herein refers in particular to "natural" ingredients and "naturally derived" ingredients as defined above. Ingredients of natural origin have a naturalness index greater than 0.5 and less than or equal to 1, calculated according to standard NF ISO n 16128. In contrast, ingredients that are synthetic or derived mainly from fossil fuels have a naturalness index of 0.

[0053] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains no organosilicon compounds.

[0054] Unless expressly stated otherwise, for the purposes of the present invention, "free" means that the mass of the substance is less than or equal to 0.5% of the total mass of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 0.2%, preferably less than or equal to 0.1%, more preferably less than or equal to 0.05% relative to the total mass of the combination.

[0055] Anhydrous composition:

[0056] For the purposes of the present invention, an "anhydrous composition" is understood to mean a composition containing less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, even more particularly less than 0.2% by mass of water relative to the total mass of the composition. More specifically, no water is added during the preparation of the composition and the water content corresponds to the residual water provided by the ingredients constituting the composition.

[0057] The composition according to the invention comprises a fatty substance including, in particular, sunflower wax, a primary monohydric alcohol having a branched chain containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and triphenin.

[0058] For the purposes of the present invention, "fatty substances" are organic compounds that are immiscible in water at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (1.013*105 Pa; 760 mm Hg). More specifically, compounds of this type have a solubility in water of less than 5% by mass, preferably less than 1% by mass and more preferably less than 0.1% by mass. Such compounds generally have in their structure a chain comprising hydrocarbons consisting of at least 6 carbon atoms or at least two siloxane groups. In general, "fatty substances" include hydrocarbons, organosilicones and fluorine compounds.

[0059] For the purposes of the present invention, a "hydrocarbon" refers to a compound containing at least one hydrocarbon group (i.e., a group containing hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms) and optionally oxygen atoms, nitrogen atoms, sulfur atoms and / or phosphorus atoms. The hydrocarbon may, for example, contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. More specifically, in the context of the present invention, the hydrocarbon does not contain silicon atoms or fluorine atoms.

[0060] For the purposes of the present invention, "silicone" refers to a compound containing at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si-O group. Examples include organopolysiloxanes.

[0061] "Fluorinated" refers to compounds containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0062] For the purposes of the present invention, fatty substances are preferably hydrocarbon-based.More preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone fatty substances and fluorinated fatty substances.

[0063] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain fatty substances of petrochemical origin. More specifically, the composition according to the invention may not contain fatty substances of petrochemical origin selected from mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin, hydrogenated polyisobutene and microcrystalline wax. More preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain fatty substances of petrochemical origin selected from mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin, hydrogenated polyisobutene, microcrystalline wax, ozokerite, lignite, ceresin and synthetic wax. The specific combination according to the invention allows to obtain a high-performance, stable, flexible composition with a gel appearance without the use of such fatty substances.

[0064] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention does not contain plastic powders of petrochemical origin. Examples include polyolefin powders (such as polyethylene), polyamide powders (such as nylon powder) or acrylic polymers (such as methacrylate copolymer powders). Examples of such plastic powders include compounds with the INCI names methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, polymethyl methacrylate, polyethylene, ethylene / methacrylate copolymer, nylon 6, nylon-6 / 12, nylon-12, HDI / trimethylcaprolactone crosspolymer or polyethylene terephthalate.

[0065] The composition according to the invention may consist of a single fatty phase (monophase composition) or may be in the form of a dispersion of two immiscible phases (for example, in the form of an emulsion comprising a fatty phase and an anhydrous hydrophilic phase, or in the form of a suspension of a powder in a fatty phase).

[0066] "Single-phase composition" refers to a composition containing only one homogeneous phase. This composition is different from a dispersion of two immiscible phases at ambient temperature.

[0067] Alternatively, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a dispersion of two immiscible phases at room temperature (25°C). According to a first example, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion in which a hydrophilic phase (comprising a hydrophilic component) is dispersed in a lipophilic phase (or fat phase). Examples of hydrophilic components that can form a hydrophilic phase are: short-chain monohydric alcohols, for example, containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms (such as ethanol, isopropanol); linear or branched polyols, for example, containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms (such as butanediol, glycerol or glycerol, sorbitol, etc.); and mixtures thereof. When the composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion, the mass content of the hydrophilic phase is preferably at most 5%, preferably at most 3%, more preferably at most 2%, relative to the total mass of the composition. According to a second example, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a powder suspension dispersed in a lipophilic phase (or fat phase). Examples of powders include compounds with the following INCI names: silicon dioxide, talc, mica, cellulose, tapioca starch, microcrystalline cellulose, oat bran (avena sativa bran), corn starch, kaolin, perlite. When the composition according to the invention is in the form of a suspension, the mass content of powder is preferably at most 10%, preferably at most 5%, more preferably at most 3%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0068] Macroscopic analysis (with the naked eye) of the composition according to the invention shows a homogeneous appearance, whether the composition is in single phase or dispersed form.

[0069] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of a hydrophilic phase.

[0070] Sunflower wax:

[0071] The composition according to the invention comprises sunflower wax.

[0072] This is a vegetable wax that is usually a byproduct of sunflower oil production, obtained, for example, by extracting the seeds (especially if not shelled). Sunflower wax is often used in candles and was even used as a protective wax to cover the pages of Russian manuscripts in the 18th century. It was also used as a styling wax in some indigenous societies in the Americas, to maintain hairstyles and to decorate feathers.

[0073] More generally, wax can increase the consistency and certain hardness of cosmetic ingredients. They can also increase certain gloss. Sunflower wax (as plant-based wax) is a more environmentally friendly substitute than mineral wax, synthetic wax or petrochemical wax. However, the preparation of cosmetic compositions that do not contain mineral wax, synthetic wax or petrochemical wax is usually more difficult, because the composition of plant wax base is more likely to cause unstable phenomena (such as, forming particles (recrystallization) or the release of oil). In addition, the composition based on plant wax may have the problem of repeatability of the stability of the batch of plant wax used, considering that the composition and quality of these waxes are more likely to change. The inventor has determined that despite the presence of sunflower wax and the absence of mineral wax, synthetic wax or petrochemical wax, the specific combination of ingredients that can still avoid these unstable phenomena.

[0074] Sunflower wax is a solid fatty substance at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (1.013*105 Pa; 760 mm Hg) with a reversible solid / liquid state change and a melting point above 60° C. Sunflower wax may consist essentially of one or more C38-C60, in particular C40-C54, carboxylic acid esters. These esters have in particular the formula R—COO—R′, wherein R is an alkyl chain containing 16 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and R′ is an alkyl chain containing 16 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular 26 to 32 carbon atoms. Preferably, the sunflower wax has a dropping point in the range of from 65° C. to 80° C., more particularly from 70° C. to 80° C., measured according to ASTM-D3954 (for example, using a Metler Toledo DP70 (dropping point system) apparatus).

[0075] Non-limiting examples of useful sunflower waxes include the compound having the INCI name "Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax", for example the product sold under the name KAHLWAX 6607L by INGRETECH or the product sold under the name SUNFLOWER WAX by KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0076] In the composition according to the invention, the content of sunflower wax may be at least 3% by mass, preferably at least 4% by mass, more preferably at least 6% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0077] The content of sunflower wax may be at most 20% by mass, preferably at most 15% by mass, more preferably at most 12% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0078] Preferably, the content of sunflower wax is 3% to 20% by mass, preferably 4% to 15% by mass, more preferably 6% to 12% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition. This allows the composition to be more stable and more organoleptic.

[0079] Branched primary monoalcohols:

[0080] The composition according to the invention comprises at least 15% by mass of branched primary monoalcohols comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0081] This is a special type of alcohol known as "aliphatic" (there are hydrocarbons containing at least 6 carbon atoms): this alcohol has a single primary -OH group (i.e., a CH 2 The number of carbon atoms from 12 to 24 refers to primary monohydric alcohols and therefore includes -CH 2 The carbon atom of the -OH group. More specifically, within the meaning of the present invention, a branched primary monoalcohol is a compound which is liquid at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 5 Pa; 760 mm Hg).

[0082] The composition according to the invention optionally comprises one or more branched primary monoalcohols containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the total content of which is at least 15% by mass.

[0083] Preferably, the at least one branched primary monohydric alcohol contains from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0084] Preferably, the at least one branched primary monohydric alcohol is liquid at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 5 Pa; 760 mmHg).

[0085] Preferably, the branched primary monoalcohol is a beta-ramified primary alcohol. In other words, the branch is in the beta position relative to the hydroxyl functional group (-OH).

[0086] More specifically, the primary branched monoalcohol is a Guerbet alcohol. Guerbet alcohols are well-known β-branched primary alcohols, formed by dimerization of alcohols and are defined, for example, in document WO 2013 / 040313. In the context of the present invention, the branched primary monoalcohol containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms preferably has the general formula: CH 3 -(CH 2 ) n -CH(CH 2 -OH)-(CH 2 ) n-2-CH 3 , wherein n is an integer from 5 to 12, preferably from 6 to 10, more preferably from 7 to 9. Examples of Guerbet alcohols containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms include 2-butyl-1-octanol (formula C 12 H 26 O, n = 5), 2-pentyl-1-nonanol (general formula C14H30O, n = 6), 2-hexyl-1-decanol (general formula C 16 H 34 O and INCI names: hexyldecanol (HEXYLDECANOL), 2-heptyl-1-undecyl alcohol (or HEPTYLUNDECANOL, general formula C 18 H 38 O, n = 8), 2-octyl-1-dodecanol (general formula: C 20 H 42 O, INCI name: octyldodecanol (OCTYLDODECANOL)), 2-nonyl-1-tridecanol (general formula C 22 H 46 O, n = 10) and 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol (formula C 24 H 50 O, n=12).

[0087] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the branched primary monoalcohol is selected from hexyldecanol, heptylundecanol, octyldodecanol or a mixture thereof. Advantageously, the branched primary monoalcohol is octyldodecanol.

[0088] Non-limiting examples of branched primary monohydric alcohols that can be used include compounds having a CAS number of 5333-42-6 (9-eicosanol or 2-octyldodecan-1-ol) or products sold under the name of EUTANOL G (produced by BASF), ISOFOL 20 (produced by IMCD), or RISONOL 20SP / MB (produced by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO CO., LTD).

[0089] In the composition according to the invention, the content of branched primary monoalcohols is at least 15% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. Preferably, the content of branched primary monoalcohols is at least 30% by mass, preferably at least 40% by mass, more preferably at least 50% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. A high content of liquid fatty compounds of this type can contribute to the tender texture of the solid composition according to the invention together with any other liquid fatty substances. However, flexible solids containing large amounts of liquid fatty compounds are more susceptible to reorganization of the solid network at temperatures close to 50°C or lower, and therefore problems of recrystallization and / or oil release may occur. Surprisingly, the combination of ingredients used in the present invention is able to combine greater stability and improved sensory properties.

[0090] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the content of branched primary monoalcohol is less than 70% by mass, preferably less than 60% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0091] Preferably, the content of branched primary monoalcohol is 30% to 70% by mass, preferably 40% to 60% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes the composition more stable and more organoleptic.

[0092] Alkyl-cellulose:

[0093] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkyl-cellulose, wherein the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0094] The alkyl-cellulose according to the invention is fat-soluble or fat-dispersible.

[0095] It is understood that the alkyl groups in the alkyl-cellulose are hydrocarbon chains, particularly hydrocarbon chains having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. For the purposes of the present invention, these alkyl groups are not themselves substituted with hydroxyl (-OH) groups, making the alkyl-cellulose lipophilic (thus excluding "hydroxyalkylcellulose" type compounds).

[0096] Alkyl-celluloses have gelling properties and can be used as fat phase thickeners. For the purposes of the present invention, "thickener" refers in particular to macromolecules which, due to their presence, can increase the viscosity of the composition into which they are introduced. In addition to increasing the viscosity, alkyl-celluloses can also participate in the creation of a gel network structure as part of the combination according to the invention.

[0097] Alkyl-cellulose is an alkyl ether of cellulose. Cellulose is a linear homopolymer in which the repeating glucose units contain three hydroxyl functional groups (-OH). All or some of these hydroxyl functional groups can react to become alkylated (substituted with alkoxy groups). The degree of substitution (DS) represents the average number of etherified hydroxyl groups per glucose unit. For example, in the case of ethyl cellulose (from CAS No. 9004-57-3), the ethoxy (-OC 2 H 5 ) can vary between 44% and 51% by dry weight (corresponding to an average of no more than 2.6 ethoxy groups per glucose unit).

[0098] In a preferred embodiment, the alkyl-cellulose has a degree of substitution greater than or equal to 2.

[0099] Alkyl-cellulose may optionally contain several different alkyl groups. For example, ethylmethylcellulose (also known as methylethylcellulose, used as a food additive) is a cellulose derivative containing ethyl and methyl groups.

[0100] Preferably, the alkyl-cellulose is selected from methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, ethylmethylcellulose, propylcellulose or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the alkyl-cellulose is selected from ethylcellulose, ethylmethylcellulose, propylcellulose or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the alkyl-cellulose is ethylcellulose.

[0101] Non-limiting examples of commercially available alkyl-celluloses include compounds with CAS No. 9004-57-3 (ethylcellulose) or products sold by THE DOW CHEMICAL COMPANY as CELLOSIZE OIL 100 ethylcellulose (formerly ETHOCEL STANDARD 100 PREMIUM) (eg, distributed by UNIVAR) or Aqualon EC N200 PC sold by ASHLAND.

[0102] In the composition of the present invention, the content of the alkyl-cellulose may be at least 1% by mass, preferably at least 2% by mass, more preferably at least 2.5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0103] On the other hand, the content of alkyl-cellulose in the composition according to the invention may be up to 8 mass %, preferably up to 6 mass %. In the composition according to the invention, the content of alkyl-cellulose may also be less than 4 mass % relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0104] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the alkyl-cellulose content is from 1 to 8% by mass, preferably from 2 to 6% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition. This allows, if necessary, to combine greater stability and organoleptic properties of the composition.

[0105] Advantageously, the mass ratio of the amount of alkyl-cellulose to the amount of branched primary monoalcohol is from 1:5 to 1:30, preferably from 1:10 to 1:25. This can improve the consistency, stability and organoleptic properties of the composition.

[0106] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is free of styrene-based or olefin-based fatty phase polymer gelling agents and isocyanate-based fatty phase polymer gelling agents. Examples of styrene-based or olefin-based fatty phase polymer gelling agents include compounds with the following INCI names: hydrogenated styrene / isoprene copolymers, ethylene / propylene / styrene copolymers, butylene / ethylene / styrene copolymers, etc. Examples of isocyanate-based fatty phase polymer gelling agents include compounds with the INCI name castor oil / IPDI copolymer.

[0107] Three Mountain Spirits:

[0108] The composition according to the invention comprises triphenin.

[0109] Tribehenin, also known as glyceryl tribehenate (INCI name: Tribehenin), is a triester of glycerol and benzoic acid (CASE No. 18641-57-1). It is commonly used as a wax, in particular to provide thickness to the fatty phase of cosmetic compositions, and is also mentioned for its emollient properties.

[0110] Non-limiting examples of commercial references that may be used include the product sold under the name SYNCROWA XHRC by CRODA or the product sold under the name MAXI-LIP by SEDERMA (CRODA Group).

[0111] In the composition according to the invention, the content of triphenin may be at least 0.1 mass %, preferably at least 0.2 mass %, relative to the total mass of the composition. A small amount of triphenin is sufficient to obtain a composition that is stable over time.

[0112] On the other hand, the mass content of triphenin in the composition according to the invention may be at most 2 mass %, preferably at most 1 mass %, relative to the total mass of the composition. The mass content of triphenin in the composition according to the invention may also be less than 1 mass %, relative to the total mass of the composition. A small amount of triphenin is sufficient to obtain a composition that is stable over time.

[0113] Preferably, in the composition according to the present invention, the content of triphenin is from 0.1% to 2% by mass, preferably from 0.1% to less than 1% by mass, more preferably from 0.2% to less than 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes the composition more stable and more sensory. For example, in the composition according to the present invention, the content of triphenin can be from 0.1% to 0.8% by mass, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0114] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, relative to the total mass of the composition:

[0115] a) from 3 to 20% by mass, preferably from 4 to 15% by mass, more preferably from 6 to 12% by mass of sunflower wax;

[0116] b) from 15 to 70% by mass, preferably from 30 to 70% by mass, in particular from 40 to 60% by mass, of a primary monohydric alcohol having a branched chain having 12 to 24 carbon atoms;

[0117] c) from 1 to 8% by mass, preferably from 2 to 6% by mass, in particular from 2.5 to 4% by mass of alkyl-cellulose (wherein the alkyl residue contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms); and

[0118] d) 0.1 to 2 mass%, preferably 0.2 to 1 mass% of triphenin.

[0119] Additional compounds:

[0120] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more formulation agents, in particular customary cosmetic active ingredients and / or excipients.

[0121] These formulation agents can be appropriately selected according to the purpose of the composition of the present invention.

[0122] Non-limiting examples of formulating agents include active ingredients, fatty substances or organic solvents (e.g., alcohols and polyols), lipophilic rheological agents (thickeners or gelling agents), softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, defoamers, film formers, emulsifiers, surfactants (anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric), fillers (e.g., mattifying powders, soft focus active touch powders, etc.), UV filters (or photoprotectants, organic and / or inorganic, active in UVA and / or UVB), colorants, chelating agents, alkalizing agents or acidifying agents, pH adjusting agents, preservatives, fragrances or any other ingredients commonly used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields. The amounts of these various compounds are those commonly used in the field under consideration.

[0123] For example, the composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one active ingredient. Examples of active ingredients include:

[0124] - Anti-pollution agents and / or anti-free radical agents and / or antioxidants (Coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone);

[0125] - Anti-aging agents;

[0126] - firming or anti-wrinkle agents, such as vegetable proteins and their hydrolysates (eg, soy protein extracts);

[0127] - humectants (polyols such as glycerol);

[0128] - anti-inflammatory agents (such as glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts);

[0129] - Soothing agents (allantoin, bisabolol, cornflower water),

[0130] -Antimicrobial or antibacterial agents;

[0131] - Plumping agents;

[0132] - vitamins and provitamins (such as ascorbic acid or vitamin C, tocopherol or vitamin E, niacinamide or vitamin PP or B3, panthenol or vitamin B5, biotin or vitamin B8 and their derivatives (such as esters of these vitamins));

[0133] -Essential oils.

[0134] The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more additional fatty substances. Additional fatty substances are fatty substances other than those mentioned in the main claim and defined above (in particular sunflower wax, branched primary monohydric alcohols containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms and triphenin). These are soluble in water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 5Pa; 760mmHg) can be a liquid or solid fatty substance. "Solid fatty substance" and "liquid fatty substance" are defined and exemplified below.

[0135] The term "solid fatty substance" (or "non-liquid fatty substance") refers in particular to a substance that is solid and has a viscosity of 1.013*10 5 Solid fatty substances are compounds that are solid or substantially solid at 1000 psi (760 mmHg). They are often used as structurants in cosmetic compositions, for example to increase the consistency of the composition or to increase the viscosity of the fatty phase. Solid fatty substances may be crystalline, amorphous or pasty. For example, these may be waxy or pasty fatty substances.

[0136] "Wax" refers specifically to wax at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 5 A compound that is solid at 1000 ° C. (760 mm Hg) and has a reversible solid / liquid state change and a melting point above about 45° C. Waxes generally have an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state. In general, waxes can be of plant origin (sunflower wax, rice wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated castor oil, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, etc.), animal origin (beeswax, lanolin wax, lanolin derivatives, etc.), mineral origin (paraffin, vaseline, ozokerite, lignite, mineral wax, microcrystalline wax, etc.) or synthetic origin (polyolefins, such as polyethylene wax, polyalphaolefins, etc.). In the context of the present invention, waxes are preferably of plant and / or animal origin.

[0137] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "paste fatty substance" (also called "butter") refers in particular to a fatty substance with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). For example, the solid fraction of a pasty compound measured at 25°C may account for 10% to 90% by mass of the compound. In other words, the initial melting temperature of the pasty compound may be lower than 25°C. For example, the pasty compound also has a melting end temperature that may be lower than 60°C. For the purposes of the present invention, the melting end temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% by mass of the sample melts. The melting temperature can be measured and the melting end temperature determined according to the scheme described in document WO2020 / 127383. In the solid state, the pasty compound may have an anisotropic crystal structure.

[0138] The melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter DSC, for example the one sold by TA Instruments under the name "DSC Q100" with "TA Universal Analysis" software. Document WO 2022 / 003026 describes a measurement protocol that is applicable depending on whether the solid fatty substance is a wax or a pasty compound.

[0139] Among the solid fatty substances that can be used, for example, non-liquid fatty alcohols (such as myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, etc.); non-liquid fatty acids (such as palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, etc.); non-liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters (such as glyceryl behenate, octyldodecyl behenate, isohexadecyl behenate, cetyl lactylate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, etc.); non-liquid fatty amines and ethers; and, more commonly, waxes of natural origin (beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, hydrogenated castor oil, etc.) or paste-like fatty substances of plant origin (shea butter, mango butter, cocoa butter, nut butter, hydrogenated coconut oil, etc.).

[0140] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one vegetable butter. The presence of vegetable butter generally provides emollient properties as well as organoleptic properties, in particular by giving the composition consistency and fondant. However, the presence of this compound may also have an impact on stability (blocky appearance due to recrystallization). Surprisingly, these crystallization phenomena can be avoided in the presence of vegetable butter in the specific combination according to the invention. Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the content of vegetable butter is 1% to 10% by mass, preferably 3% to 8% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0141] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one beeswax. This allows to improve the sensory properties of the composition. Beeswax is traditionally used as a solid matrix, ointment or salves for external application to the skin in remedial measures. However, beeswax may also cause unstable phenomena (release and / or abnormal recrystallization). Surprisingly, even in the presence of beeswax, this special combination can avoid these unstable phenomena. Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, relative to the gross mass of the composition, the content of beeswax is 1% to 12% by mass, preferably 4% to 9% by mass.

[0142] The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one additional liquid fatty substance. For example, relative to the total mass of the composition, the content of the additional liquid fatty substance may be from 5% to 30%, preferably from 10% to 25%.

[0143] The term "liquid fatty substance" refers in particular to a fatty substance which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 5 Pa; 760mmHg) is a compound that is liquid at below.

[0144] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil, especially of vegetable origin.

[0145] By "oil" we mean in particular oil at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 5 A fatty substance that is liquid at 4000 psi (760 mm Hg). Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0146] By "hydrocarbon oil", within the meaning of the present invention we mean in particular an oil which is essentially formed of, or even consists of, carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms and does not contain silicon atoms or fluorine atoms. For example, it may contain ester, ether, carbonate groups etc.

[0147] By "volatile oils" we mean in particular oils which, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, evaporate in less than one hour after contact with the skin. Volatile oils are liquid at room temperature and have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40.000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mm Hg).

[0148] By "non-volatile oils" we mean in particular oils which remain on the skin for at least several hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. In particular, they have a vapour pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (less than 10 -3 mm Hg).

[0149] Examples of hydrocarbon oils that can be used include hydrocarbons containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms (n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), n-hexadecane (C16), etc.); hydrocarbon oils containing more than 16 carbon atoms, especially alkane oils (squalane), vegetable oils (triglycerides, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, peanut oil, sesame oil, walnut oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, calendula oil, apricot oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, corn oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, grape seed oil Oil, acacia oil, castor oil, avocado oil, yellow plum oil, shea butter, etc.) or other oils of plant origin (glycerides, such as monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides of fatty acids, such as caprylic / capric triglycerides, etc.); liquid fatty alcohols (oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, etc.); liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than glycerides (ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, hexyldecyl stearate, ethylhexyl stearate, decyl oleate, hexyl laurate, cetearyl isononanoate, coconut oil-caprylate, coconut oil-caprylate / caprate, etc.); liquid fatty acid ethers (dicaprylyl ether, distearyl ether, diisononyl ether, etc.); carbonate oils (dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, etc.) and mixtures thereof.

[0150] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil chosen from ester oils; and more particularly having a molecular weight ranging from 500 to 5,000 g / mol, preferably from 600 to 4500 g / mol, more preferably from 1,000 to 4,500 g / mol. An example of an ester oil that can be used is the compound with the INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Linoleate.

[0151] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil selected from fatty acids and / or fatty alcohol ester oils. These esters, referred to as "fatty" esters, have at least one linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be substituted. Examples of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohol ester oils include ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, diisopropyl diester, hexyldecyl stearate, ethylhexyl stearate, etc. Preferably, the molecular weight of the fatty acids and / or fatty alcohol ester oils is from 500 to 5.000 g / mol, preferably from 600 to 4,500 g / mol and more preferably from 1.000 to 4,500 g / mol. Examples of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohol ester oils with a molecular weight of 500 to 5,000 g / mol include diisostearyl malate or diisopropyl diester. Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the content of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol ester oil is from 5 to 25 mass %, preferably from 10 to 20 mass %, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0152] Thanks to his knowledge of cosmetics, a person skilled in the art is able to choose the formulating agents added to the composition of the invention and their amounts according to the desired properties, without significantly changing the effects associated with the composition of the invention, in particular the efficacy, stability and organoleptic properties of the composition.

[0153] According to a specific embodiment, the present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition composed of at least 60% by mass, preferably at least 70% by mass, of:

[0154] a) Sunflower wax;

[0155] b) at least 15% by mass of a branched primary monoalcohol containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably octyldodecyl alcohol;

[0156] c) at least one alkyl-cellulose whose alkyl residue comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably ethyl cellulose; and

[0157] d) Three Mountain Spirits; and

[0158] e) at least one additional liquid fatty substance chosen from hydrocarbon oils, in particular of vegetable origin.

[0159] According to a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, relative to the total mass of the composition:

[0160] a) from 3 to 20% by mass, preferably from 4 to 15% by mass, more preferably from 6 to 12% by mass of sunflower wax;

[0161] b) from 15 to 70% by mass, preferably from 30 to 70% by mass, in particular from 40 to 60% by mass, of primary monohydric alcohols having branches containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms;

[0162] c) from 1 to 8% by mass, preferably from 2 to 6% by mass, in particular from 2.5 to 4% by mass, of alkyl-celluloses, the alkyl residues of which contain from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0163] d) from 0.1 to 2 mass %, preferably from 0.2 to 1 mass % of triphenin; and

[0164] e) from 5 to 30% by mass, preferably from 10 to 25% by mass, of additional liquid fatty substances chosen from hydrocarbon oils, in particular of vegetable origin.

[0165] use:

[0166] Another subject of the invention is the use of a composition according to the invention for protecting, caring for and / or making up the lips.

[0167] The invention also relates to the above-mentioned use, wherein the composition according to the invention is packaged in an extruded tube.

[0168] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for protecting and / or caring for the lips, comprising the step of applying to the lips a composition as defined above.

[0169] Example

[0170] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the following non-limiting examples. The compounds or raw materials used are referred to by their INCI names. Unless otherwise indicated, the percentages given are percentages by mass. The term "qsp" means that the amount must be sufficient to make the composition reach 100% of its final mass. The term "nd" means "not determined".

[0171] The compositions of Examples 1 to 16 were prepared according to the following procedure and their proportions (in %) are shown in the following Tables 1 to 4. The different compositions were also evaluated according to their organoleptic properties (appearance, color, odor), stability over time under the various conditions detailed below, and spreadability.

[0172] In Tables 1 to 4 below:

[0173] - the words "Inv." or "Comp." refer to a composition "according to the invention" or a "comparative" composition (outside the invention), respectively;

[0174] - "gel", "antiox.", "pH adj." and "pigm." refer to the type of ingredients, and stand for "gelling agent", "antioxidant", "pH adjuster" and "pigment" respectively;

[0175] - The left column titled "P" indicates the phase in which the ingredient exists;

[0176] - The references in brackets (next to the INCI name of the compound) refer to the trade names of the raw materials that constitute these ingredients. Details of these raw materials are as follows:

[0177] (1) EUTANOL G (INCI name: octyldodecanol) is sold by BASF.

[0178] (2) CELLOSIZE OIL 100 ethylcellulose (INCI name: ethylcellulose (and) aqua / water / ethylenediamine (and) propyl gallate), from The Dow Chemical Company.

[0179] (3) BENTONE GEL EUG V (INCI name: Octyldodecanol (and) Distearyldimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate), sold by SACI-CFPA SA.

[0180] (4) Versagel SQ 1600T (INCI name: Squalene (and) Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer (and) Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer (and) Pentaerythritol Tetra-Di-tert-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate), sold by AZELIS.

[0181] (5) DISM BIOSYNTHIS (INCI name: Diisostearyl malate) sold by BIOSYNTHIS SARL.

[0182] (6) DISM 10M5 (INCI name: Diisostearyl Malate (and) Silica), sold by KOBO PRODUCTS.

[0183] (7) KAHLWAX 6607L (INCI name: Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Ascorbyl Palmitate (and) Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil), sold by INGRETECH.

[0184] (8) Blue Lotus Flower Essential Wax (INCI name: Egyptian Blue Lotus Flower Extract), sold by HUILES BERTIN SAS.

[0185] (9) CERABEIL BLANCHE SELECTION (INCI name: Cera Alba / Beeswax / Beeswax), sold by UNIVARSOLUTIONS.

[0186] (11) FAIR TRADE ORGANIC KARITE BUTTER (INCI name: Shea butter), sold by OLVEA SAS.

[0187] (12) MAXI-LIP (INCI name: Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Tribehenin (and) Sorbitan Isostearate (and) Lactic Acid (and) Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1), marketed by Starma (Croda Group).

[0188] (13) SYNCROWAX HRC (INCI name: SYNCROWAX), from Kroda.

[0189] (14) COVIOX T-90EU C (INCI name: Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil), marketed by BASF.

[0190] (15) TOCOPHEROL ACETATE (INCI name: tocopherol acetate), sold by BASF.

[0191] (16) 90% LACTIC ACID (INCI name: lactic acid (and) aqua / water / eau), sold by UNIVARSOLUTIONS.

[0192] (17) SUNSIL-150H (INCI name: SILICA), sold by IMPAG France.

[0193] (m) A paste is obtained by mixing 25% of DC RED 7 C 19003 (INCI name: CI 15850, sold by SUN CHEMICAL MAPRECOS) and 75% of DISM (INCI name: diisostearyl malate, sold by BIOSYNTHIS, France).

[0194] [Table 1]

[0195]

[0196] Table 1 shows that formulations 1 to 3 are very similar in composition and that all three formulations contain triphenin (20% by mass in the material sold under the name MAXI LIP, i.e. 0.2% by mass in each composition). Comparative formulation 1 differs mainly from compositions 2 and 3 according to the invention in that it does not contain an alkyl-cellulose: another thickener based on hectorite is used here. According to the stability test carried out at 50° C. for 1 month using the following procedure (release of oil on the surface), this composition is not stable. On the contrary, surprisingly, compositions 2 and 3 according to the invention are stable even at 50° C. for 1 month.

[0197] Composition 4 is another example of a composition according to the invention comprising a specific combination of ingredients. Surprisingly, this composition is stable for 1 month at 50°C even in the presence of a large amount of beeswax.

[0198] [Table 2]

[0199]

[0200] Table 2 shows that the main difference between comparative formulations 5 and 6 and composition 7 according to the invention is that they do not contain tribehenin. In addition, composition 5 is gelled using an olefin copolymer instead of an alkyl-cellulose. Composition 5 is unstable (heterogeneous) after storage at room temperature and at 40° C. for 3 months. Composition 6 is also unstable (presence of crystallites) after storage at room temperature. Surprisingly, composition 7 according to the invention has satisfactory stability under the test conditions.

[0201] [Table 3]

[0202]

[0203] Formulas 9 to 12 described in Table 3 differ only in the content of tribehenin. The stability test showed that comparative formula 9, which does not contain tribehenin, was unstable (recrystallization of crystals) after continuous storage for 1 month at 50°C and then for 1 month at room temperature. Compositions 10 to 12 contain 0.2%, 0.4% and 1% of tribehenin, respectively. In contrast to formula 9 and surprisingly, these compositions 10 to 12 containing a specific combination of ingredients are stable under the test conditions, despite the presence of additional waxy or pasty compounds (beeswax, Egyptian blue lotus extract, fruit fats) that can also promote recrystallization.

[0204] [Table 4]

[0205]

[0206] Formulations 13 to 16 described in Table 4 are further examples of more minimalist compositions, ie, containing fewer ingredients.

[0207] Formulations 13 and 14 have very similar compositions and both contain 7% sunflower wax. The absence of triphenin in comparative formulation 13 does not meet the stability requirements (especially after TA storage). On the other hand, composition 14, which contains a specific combination of ingredients according to the invention, has satisfactory stability under the test conditions.

[0208] Formulas 15 and 16 are very similar and both contain 11.66% sunflower wax. The stability test shows that in the absence of triphenin, comparative formula 15 leads to instability. In contrast, composition 16 according to the invention has a stable texture under the test conditions.

[0209] Steps for compositions 1 to 16:

[0210] Phase A is prepared by heating to 90°C (using a hot plate) and mixing and melting the corresponding ingredients under Rayneri stirring equipped with a deflocculation centrifuge at 200 to 400 rpm (revolutions per minute). The mixture is stirred at 90°C at a speed of about 500 rpm until it is completely melted and homogenized to form an ethyl-cellulose gel. The mixture is then cooled to 85°C.

[0211] When the temperature of the resulting mixture (phase A) reaches 85°C, phase B is added under stirring of a Rayneri equipped with a deflocculation centrifuge (speed of about 500 rpm). Stirring is maintained at 85°C until homogenization. If necessary, stirring is increased. The mixture is then cooled under stirring (about 200 rpm).

[0212] When the resulting mixture (Phase A and Phase B) reaches a temperature of 40°C, Phase C is added and stirring is maintained until homogenized.

[0213] When the resulting mixture reaches a temperature close to 35°C, it is poured into a container (eg, a pot or a tube).

[0214] A solid composition (400 g) is obtained having a thick balm texture and a pale pink color with the appearance of a gel. The composition also has a milky appearance, highlighted by applying a 2 mm layer of the composition on a contrast card (white and black stripes on the card are visible in the transparency).

[0215] Evaluation Methodology:

[0216] Viscosity measurement:

[0217] The viscosity is measured after the preparation of the anhydrous composition and after storage in an oven at 20°C for 24 hours. The viscosity is measured using the above-mentioned measuring device (Brookfield RV viscometer equipped with Helipath system) at an ambient temperature of about 20°C. The device measures the torque required to rotate a moving body "M" of given dimensions (selected according to the manufacturer's standard operating recommendations) at a given speed "V", the moving body "M" being immersed in the fluid to be tested. Here, the viscosity is measured using a No. 95 flow meter at a speed of 10 rpm (rotations per minute). The measured values ​​are expressed in cP (centipoise or mPa.s). The viscosity measurements are listed in Tables 1 to 4.

[0218] Stability Assessment:

[0219] The stability of the solid compositions after storage under different conditions, in particular under accelerated aging conditions in a 50°C oven, was studied for 1 month. For each composition, five glass bottles were tested for stability: 3 months at room temperature (RT) in the dark, thermal control studies in the dark, 3 months at 4°C, 3 months at 40°C, 1 month at 50°C, and 1 month in temperature cycling (automatic temperature cycling from -10°C to 25°C every 12 hours). After storage for a certain time (t) under these different conditions, the quality and color of the samples were evaluated by sensory analysis of the samples (appearance, color and odor). The sensory evaluation consisted of visually evaluating the overall characteristics of the samples (color, any precipitation, the presence of any crystals, any release of oil on the surface, hardness and / or viscosity constant over time) and the odor of the samples after storage, and comparing them with control compositions kept in the dark (control compositions at 4°C for color and odor comparison; control compositions at TA for texture and spread comparison).

[0220] The stability results after storage under various test conditions (as in Tables 1 to 4 above) show that the comparative compositions are unstable (salting out and / or recrystallization phenomena). In contrast, the compositions according to the invention comprising a specific combination of ingredients are stable, homogeneous, and maintain a thick, gel-like balm texture over time. In particular, they are able to retain their organoleptic properties over time.

[0221] Evaluation of performance and sensory properties:

[0222] The sensory properties (texture and feel during and after application) of composition 3 according to the invention were compared with those of a lipstick (comparative composition 17) containing conventionally used ingredients of petrochemical origin, which gave it a smooth, gel-like texture with good sensory properties such as good glide and good spreadability, and leaving a sufficiently consistent film on application (without losing thickness on application).

[0223] Comparative composition 17 based on petrochemical ingredients was prepared according to the following procedure, with the proportions shown in Table 5 below.

[0224] [Table 5]

[0225]

[0226]

[0227] Comparative composition 17 was prepared by mixing all the ingredients of phase A in a beaker. The mixture was heated to 85° C. with Rayneri stirring (about 300 rpm) until the ingredients were completely melted and homogenized. The mixture was cooled with Rayneri stirring (about 150 rpm) until a temperature of about 35° C. was reached, at which temperature the mixture was filled into containers (e.g., pans or tubes). A solid composition with a thick balm texture and a gel appearance was obtained. The composition also had a certain translucency, which could be seen by applying a 2 mm layer of the composition on a cardboard comparison card (the white and black stripes on the card were visible in the transparency).

[0228] Compositions 17 and 3 had comparable consistency and viscosity.

[0229] The sensory properties were evaluated by a panel of 5 experts (trained in sensory techniques). Both products were evaluated in a controlled comparative method (one after the other) as described below.

[0230] The composition was applied to each lip that had been pre-cleansed with a two-phase makeup remover. The descriptors evaluated were divided into the following three categories:

[0231] ·smear:

[0232] - Smoothness (the ability of the product to glide and spread during application, rather than feeling like a brake) was assessed on a scale from 0 (non-slip product that is difficult to spread throughout the application process) to 10 (product that is very slippery until the end of application);

[0233] - Film thickness (the consistency or thickness of the product is measured by lightly pressing the product onto the lips with the middle finger) is assessed on a scale from 0 (the product is not thick, there is no feeling of a film on the lips) to 10 (the product is very thick).

[0234] Immediately after application:

[0235] - Greasy or oily feel (ability of the product to leave an oily residual film on the lip surface) was evaluated on a scale of 0 (no greasy film) to 10 (very greasy product on the skin);

[0236] – Stickiness (the ability of the product to adhere to the skin, measured by pressing the product onto the lips with the middle finger and feeling the skin pull up) was assessed on a scale of 0 (non-sticky product) to 10 (very sticky product);

[0237] - Glossiness (the ability of the product to reflect light by tilting the lips to catch it) on a scale of 0 (matte, non-glossy skin) to 10 (very glowy skin);

[0238] 2 minutes after application:

[0239] - Stickiness (ability of the product to adhere to the skin, measured by pressing the product onto the lips with the middle finger and feeling the skin pull up) was assessed on a scale of 0 (non-sticky product) to 10 (very sticky product);

[0240] - Glossiness (the ability of the product to reflect light by tilting the lips to catch it) was assessed on a scale of 0 (matte, non-glossy skin) to 10 (very glowy skin).

[0241] Table 6 presents the evaluation results of the sensory characteristics, using the average values ​​of the five expert panelists.

[0242] [Table 6]

[0243]

[0244] Composition 3 according to the invention allows to obtain organoleptic properties comparable to those of high-performance compositions on the market, which are essentially composed of conventionally used fatty substances of petrochemical origin (such as vaseline, paraffin, hydrogenated polyisobutene or microcrystalline wax), with easy and pleasant spreadability. Composition 3 also has a gel-like appearance (non-waxy appearance) and an intense gloss comparable to composition 17 based on ingredients of petrochemical origin. Moreover, composition 3 according to the invention has very satisfactory properties in terms of texture and film thickness on the lips (it does not liquefy when applied), allowing it to be deposited in the form of a thick, enveloping film, protecting the lips and preventing them from drying out.

[0245] Evaluation of skin moisturizing effect:

[0246] The moisturizing properties were evaluated according to composition 18 according to the invention, from which all active ingredients (including moisturizing active ingredients) had been removed.

[0247] Composition 18 was prepared according to the procedure of composition 12, and the proportions thereof are shown in Table 7 below.

[0248] [Table 7]

[0249]

[0250] The assessment is based on the principle of the well-known stratum corneum moisture meter, which measures the hydration level of the upper layers of the skin by repeatedly measuring the electrical capacitance of the skin surface. The measuring system consists of electrodes, a low-dielectric vitrified material to prevent electrical contact between the electrodes and the skin surface, and a spring system to apply a constant pressure to the skin surface. Here, a 1000-meter hygrometer connected to the Cutometer dual MPA was used. MPA or MPA The measurements were performed using the CM825 skin measuring instrument from Courage & Khazaka (Germany).

[0251] The evaluation consisted of 30 women aged between 18 and 65 years and included an initial adaptation period during which the volunteers were placed in a controlled environment with constant temperature (T) and relative humidity (RH) (T = 21 ° C ± 1 ° C, RH = 50% ± 10%). Measurements were taken on the palmar surface of the forearm (an area without hair, wounds or scars) at time t0 (before application of the product) and at times t = 30 minutes, 2 hours, 4 hours and 8 hours after application of the product. Control measurements were also taken on a blank area to check for any external influences. The composition was applied with the fingertips at 2 mg / cm 2 Apply at a speed of 2.5×2.5cm(6.25cm 2 The measurements were performed in triplicate to sample the entire area and the average of the measurements was taken.

[0252] Table 8 lists the evaluation results, using the average value of the 30 panelists.

[0253] [Table 8]

[0254] time: 30 minutes 2 hours 4 hours 8 hours Increased hydration level 47.0％ 46.1％ 30.6％ 19.4％

[0255] The results show that composition 18 according to the present invention improves skin hydration 30 minutes, 2 hours, 4 hours and 8 hours after application.

[0256] In this way, the specific combination according to the invention allows to obtain a composition of greater naturalness, with a thick and tender, enveloping, non-sticky texture, while reproducing the organoleptic characteristics of a formulation based on a fatty substance of petrochemical origin. In addition, the composition used in the invention meets the stability requirements even in hot climates without the use of petrochemical fatty substances or plastic powders. In addition, the compositions according to the invention have a "gel-like" rather than waxy appearance and are more shiny. They also promote the hydration of the skin. Finally, the firm and tender texture provided by the composition according to the invention means that the product can be packaged in a tube with a very small opening (about 0.2 mm) without having to squeeze the tube hard to release the product, which is an advantage in terms of comfort and ease of use.

[0257] In conclusion, the composition according to the invention comprising the specific combination claimed allows to coordinate all the desired properties such as stability, solid and elastic consistency, performance and sensory properties (easy to apply, soft, smooth, glossy texture, low viscosity, thick, film-encapsulating). Finally, the composition according to the invention makes the lips soft and nourished, prevents them from drying out and promotes repair.

[0258] The specific combination of ingredients used in the present invention allows obtaining a smooth, elastic solid composition with a high degree of naturalness while providing the desired organoleptic and stability properties.

Claims

1. A water-free cosmetic composition in a flexible solid form, comprising: a) Sunflower wax; b) at least 15% by mass of branched primary monoalcohols, relative to the total mass of the composition, said branched primary monoalcohols containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; c) alkyl-cellulose, the alkyl residue of which contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; d) Three Mountain Spirits.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition has a 5 The viscosity is in the range of 150.000 mPa.s to 500.000 mPa.s at 2000 rpm.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, which does not contain a hydrophilic phase.

4. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The content of the sunflower wax is at least 3% by mass, preferably at least 4% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

5. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The content of the branched primary monohydric alcohol is at least 30% by mass, preferably at least 40% by mass, more preferably at least 50% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

6. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The branched primary monohydric alcohol has the general formula: CH3-(CH2) n -CH(CH2-OH)-(CH2) n-2 -CH3, wherein n is an integer ranging from 5 to 12, preferably from 6 to 10.

7. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The branched primary monohydric alcohol is selected from hexyldecanol, heptylundecanol, octyldodecanol or a mixture thereof.

8. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The branched primary monohydric alcohol is octyldodecanol.

9. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The alkyl-cellulose is selected from methyl-cellulose, ethyl-cellulose, ethylmethyl-cellulose, propyl cellulose or a mixture thereof.

10. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The alkyl-cellulose is ethyl-cellulose.

11. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The mass ratio of the amount of the alkyl-cellulose to the amount of the branched primary monoalcohol is from 1:5 to 1:30, preferably from 1:10 to 1:

25.

12. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The content of triphenin is less than 1% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

13. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one beeswax.

14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which is free of fatty substances of petrochemical origin chosen from mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin, hydrogenated polyisobutene and microcrystalline wax.

15. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which is free of plastic powders of petrochemical origin chosen from the compounds with the INCI names Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Polyethylene, Ethylene / Methacrylate Copolymer, Nylon 6, Nylon-6 / 12, Nylon-12, HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer and Polyethylene Terephthalate.

16. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing at least 70%, preferably at least 75%, ingredients of natural origin according to standard NF ISO 16128.

17. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims for protecting, caring for and / or making up the lips.

Images