Pattern making method of one-piece raglan sleeve

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of clothing engineering, and discloses a pattern making method of a one-piece raglan sleeve, which comprises the following steps of: respectively increasing a / 2 loose quantity on a front part and a rear part of a body of an upper garment prototype, re-drawing shoulder lines, shoulder points and armhole arcs, drawing a front part and a rear part of a sleeve, and making a pattern of the one-piece raglan sleeve by using the pattern making method of the one-piece raglan sleeve, the pattern making method of the one-piece raglan sleeve, the pattern making method of the one-piece raglan sleeve and the pattern making method of the one-piece raglan sleeve. A shoulder point SP is set as an original point o, a folding area opfhn is drawn on the front part of the body and the front parts of the sleeves, the width size of the folding area opfhn is a / 4, a looseness area oskk's' is drawn on the rear part of the body and the rear parts of the sleeves, the width size of the looseness area oskk's' is a / 4, the armhole arc is rounded again, and the one-piece raglan pattern is obtained. Therefore, the front bodice and the front sleeve part can be fit correspondingly, the movement function of the rear bodice is strong, the movement function of the rear sleeve part can be enhanced correspondingly, and the overall requirements of the clothes design for attractiveness, comfort and movement are met.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of clothing engineering, and in particular to a plate making method for a one-piece raglan sleeve. Background Art

[0002] The importance of clothing samples is self-evident. It is a key link in the clothing manufacturing process. It directly affects the fit, appearance and comfort of clothing, which in turn affects consumers' purchasing decisions and the brand's image. It transforms the designer's creativity into detailed drawings that can actually be made into finished garments, and is a bridge for the realization of design intentions. High-quality sample design can improve production efficiency and reduce rework and material waste.

[0003] The traditional one-piece raglan sleeve has good mobility, but poor fit, because if the front and back sleeves need to be combined, the sleeve centerline must be at the same angle as the shoulder line, that is, connected in a straight line, so that the front and back sleeves can be combined into a one-piece sleeve from the shoulder line to the sleeve centerline. If you want to improve the fit, you can only set a dart at the shoulder line, but this will destroy the integrity of the one-piece sleeve. Summary of the invention

[0004] In view of this, the present invention provides a method for making a pattern of a one-piece raglan sleeve to solve the problem of the contradiction between fit and integrity in the conventional method for making a pattern of a one-piece raglan sleeve.

[0005] The present invention provides a method for making a one-piece raglan sleeve, comprising:

[0006] S1. Draw a prototype of the garment body and divide it into the front part and the back part;

[0007] S2, taking in a / 2 loose weight from the middle area of ​​the front body piece and the back body piece respectively, where a is the total loose weight of the above garment pieces;

[0008] S3, connecting the neck side point SNP and the shoulder point SP on the front body piece to obtain a front shoulder line, and connecting the neck side point SNP and the shoulder point SP on the back body piece to obtain a back shoulder line;

[0009] S4, re-determine the front shoulder point on the front shoulder line, re-determine the back shoulder point on the back shoulder line, draw a front armhole arc line between the front shoulder point and the front side seam of the front body piece; draw a back armhole arc line between the back shoulder point and the back side seam of the back body piece;

[0010] S5, extending the front shoulder line to the length of the sleeve to obtain the front sleeve center line, drawing the front sleeve elbow line on the front sleeve center line, and drawing the front cuff line on the front sleeve center line; extending the back shoulder line to the length of the sleeve to obtain the back sleeve center line, drawing the back sleeve elbow line on the back sleeve center line, and drawing the back cuff line on the back sleeve center line;

[0011] S6. Draw a front raglan line and a back raglan line on the front body piece and the back body piece respectively according to the armhole arc line, draw a front panel of the sleeve according to the front cuff line, the front sleeve center line and the front raglan line, and draw a back panel of the sleeve according to the back cuff line, the back sleeve center line and the back raglan line;

[0012] S7, combining the front panel of the sleeve and the back panel of the sleeve to obtain a one-piece raglan sleeve piece based on the front shoulder line, the back shoulder line, the front sleeve center line and the back sleeve center line;

[0013] S8, let the shoulder point SP be the origin o, draw a line segment mn in the width direction of the loose area of ​​the front body piece, the length of the line segment mn is equal to a / 2, mark the midpoint v of the line segment mn, draw a line segment vf perpendicular to mn through the midpoint v, intersect at the bottom hem of the front body piece at point f, extend vf to point p, so that the length of the line segment on is equal to the length of the line segment op, draw a perpendicular line through point n and intersect with the bottom hem of the front body piece at point h, connect points o, p, f, h, n, and o in sequence to obtain the folding area opfhn, the width of the folding area opfhn is a / 4, wherein the line segment op and the line segment on are aligned and folded; the folding size is a / 4;

[0014] S9, find point s on the back raglan line, so that the length of line segment os is equal to the length of line segment on, draw a perpendicular line from point s to the bottom hem of the back body piece and intersect at point k, define line segment os as the sleeve opening line, and define line segment sk as the back body piece opening line. When on is folded to op, osk is opened to os'k', and the width of the area skk's' is a / 4;

[0015] S10, on the basis of step 8 and step 9, the armhole arc is rounded again to obtain a one-piece raglan sleeve pattern.

[0016] Optionally, in step 5, the front cuff line has a shrinkage b near the sleeve length line, the back cuff line has an increment b near the sleeve length line, the connecting line of the front sleeve elbow line and the front cuff line is re-rounded, and the connecting line of the back sleeve elbow line and the back cuff line is re-rounded.

[0017] Optionally, the shrinkage b and the increment b have the same value in the same plate making, and the value range is 3 cm to 7 cm.

[0018] Optionally, the lengths of the rear cuff line and the front cuff line are respectively half of the cuff width.

[0019] Optionally, the looseness 1 / 2a of the large front piece and the large back piece is determined by calculating the ratio of the comfort looseness to the sports functional looseness and the functional requirements of the clothing category.

[0020] Optionally, the inclination angles of the front shoulder line and the back shoulder line obtained in step S3 are smaller than the inclination angles of the front shoulder line and the back shoulder line of the garment body prototype;

[0021] Optionally, the depth of the armhole arc obtained in step S4 is greater than the depth of the armhole arc of the body prototype.

[0022] Optionally, in step S4, the shoulder width and the armhole depth are determined according to the modeling amount of the front chest and shoulder blades, the front shoulder point and the back shoulder point are determined according to the shoulder width, and the armhole arc is drawn according to the armhole depth.

[0023] Beneficial effects:

[0024] The method for making a plate of a one-piece raglan sleeve provided by the present invention comprises the following steps:

[0025] S1. Draw the prototype of the garment body and divide it into the front and back pieces.

[0026] S2. Take a / 2 of looseness from the middle area of ​​the front piece and the back piece respectively.

[0027] S3, connect the neck point SNP and the shoulder point SP on the front body piece to obtain the front shoulder line, and connect the neck point SNP and the shoulder point SP on the back body piece to obtain the back shoulder line. Through steps 1 to 3, the same amount of looseness is added to the front body piece and the back body piece, and without changing the position of the neck point SNP, the angles of the front shoulder line and the back shoulder line are reduced compared to the prototype of the garment drawn in step 1, so that the shoulder end point can be raised to increase the looseness of the shoulder of the garment, laying a foundation for improving the fit of the one-piece raglan sleeve.

[0028] S4, re-determine the front shoulder point on the front shoulder line, re-determine the back shoulder point on the back shoulder line, draw a front armhole arc line between the front shoulder point and the front side seam of the front body piece; draw a back armhole arc line between the back shoulder point and the back side seam of the back body piece;

[0029] S5, extending the front shoulder line to the length of the sleeve to obtain the front sleeve center line, drawing the front sleeve elbow line on the front sleeve center line, and drawing the front cuff line on the front sleeve center line; extending the back shoulder line to the length of the sleeve to obtain the back sleeve center line, drawing the back sleeve elbow line on the back sleeve center line, and drawing the back cuff line on the back sleeve center line;

[0030] S6, according to the armhole arc line, draw a front shoulder line and a back shoulder line on the body front piece and the body back piece respectively, draw the sleeve front piece according to the front cuff line, the front sleeve center line and the front shoulder line, and draw the sleeve back piece according to the back cuff line, the back sleeve center line and the back shoulder line. Through steps 5 and 6, the preliminary shape of the sleeve front piece and the sleeve back piece can be obtained.

[0031] S7, taking the front shoulder line, the back shoulder line, the front sleeve center line and the back sleeve center line as references, merging the front sleeve panel and the back sleeve panel to obtain a raglan sleeve piece. The raglan sleeve piece obtained in step 7 is an integrated raglan sleeve piece prototype.

[0032] S8. Let the shoulder point SP be the origin o, draw a line segment mn in the width direction of the loose area of ​​the front body piece, the length of the line segment mn is equal to a / 2, mark the midpoint v of the line segment mn, draw a line segment vf perpendicular to mn through the midpoint v, and intersect at the bottom hem of the front body piece at point f, extend vf to point p, so that the length of the line segment on is equal to the length of the line segment op, draw a vertical line through point n and intersect with the bottom hem of the front body piece at point h, connect points o, point p, point f, point h, point n, and point o in sequence, and obtain the folding area opfhn, the width of the folding area opfhn is a / 4, wherein the line segment op and the line segment on are aligned and folded. The folding area opfhn includes the folding area pfhn of the front body piece and the folding area opn of the front sleeve piece, that is, by folding the front body piece and the front sleeve piece, the front width of the sleeve tends to the front body piece, thereby increasing the fit.

[0033] S9. Find point s on the back raglan line so that the length of line segment os is equal to the length of line segment on. Draw a perpendicular line through point s to the bottom hem of the back body piece and intersect at point k. Define line segment os as the sleeve opening line, and define line segment sk as the back body piece opening line. When on is folded to op, osk opens to os'k', and the width of the area skk's' is a / 4; oss' is the sleeve opening part, and sks'k' is the back body opening part, which increases the looseness and movement function of the back sleeves and back body.

[0034] S10, on the basis of step 8 and step 9, the armhole arc is re-rounded to obtain a one-piece raglan sleeve pattern, and the front body and the front sleeve are made to fit together by folding and opening the shoulder of the raglan sleeve to achieve the purpose of aesthetics, and at the same time, the amount of movement of the back sleeve and the back body is increased to achieve the purpose of satisfying sports functions. The one-piece raglan sleeve takes into account both fit and integrity, and can meet the overall requirements of users for comfort, aesthetics and sportiness of clothing, which is a major innovation of the insert sleeve technology. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0035] In order to more clearly illustrate the specific implementation methods of the present invention or the technical solutions in the prior art, the drawings required for use in the specific implementation methods or the description of the prior art will be briefly introduced below. Obviously, the drawings described below are some implementation methods of the present invention. For ordinary technicians in this field, other drawings can be obtained based on these drawings without paying creative work.

[0036] Figure 1 It is a schematic structural diagram of a one-piece raglan sleeve according to an embodiment of the present invention;

[0037] Figure 2 It is a structural schematic diagram of a garment body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention;

[0038] Figure 3 A schematic diagram of the structure of increasing the looseness of the garment body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention;

[0039] Figure 4 It is a structural schematic diagram of a new armhole arc line according to an embodiment of the present invention;

[0040] Figure 5 It is a schematic structural diagram of a sleeve front piece and a sleeve back piece according to an embodiment of the present invention;

[0041] Figure 6 It is a schematic structural diagram of a combined sleeve front piece and sleeve back piece according to an embodiment of the present invention;

[0042] Figure 7 The figure is a schematic structural diagram of the folding areas of the body front piece and the sleeve front piece according to an embodiment of the present invention.

[0043] Figure 8 The figure is a schematic structural diagram of the opening areas of the back piece of the body and the back piece of the sleeves according to an embodiment of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0044] In order to make the purpose, technical solution and advantages of the embodiments of the present invention clearer, the technical solution in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below in conjunction with the drawings in the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are part of the embodiments of the present invention, not all of the embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative work are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0045] like Figure 1 The schematic diagram of the structure of a one-piece raglan sleeve drawn by the plate making method of the present application is shown below. Figures 2 to 8 The drawing method is described in detail, and the drawing method includes:

[0046] S1. Draw the prototype of the garment body and separate it into the front and back pieces. Figure 2 As shown, the body prototype is obtained by drawing the front center line, the back center line, the bust line BL, the front neckline, the front shoulder line, the armhole arc line, the back shoulder line, the back neckline and the corresponding dart lines. The body prototype is divided into a large front piece and a large back piece. The size of the body prototype can be determined according to the national size standards.

[0047] S2, taking in a / 2 of looseness from the middle area of ​​the front piece and the back piece respectively. Figure 3As shown, the total looseness a is divided into two equal parts and evenly added to the front and back pieces. This causes the neck side point SNP of the front piece and the neck side point SNP of the back piece to shift away from each other, increasing the distance between the two neck side points SNP and their corresponding shoulder points SP. Since the position of the shoulder point SP has not changed, this step can lay the foundation for redrawing the shoulder line and shoulder point. The looseness 1 / 2a of the front and back pieces can be determined by calculating the ratio of the comfort looseness to the sports functional looseness and the functional requirements of the clothing category. For example, when drawing a suit, the selection range of the total looseness a is 5cm to 10cm, when drawing a jacket, the selection range of the total looseness a is 17cm to 23cm, and when drawing tight underwear, the selection range of the total looseness a is 1cm to 3cm.

[0048] S3, connect the neck side point SNP and the shoulder point SP on the front body piece to obtain the front shoulder line, and connect the neck side point SNP and the shoulder point SP on the back body piece to obtain the back shoulder line. Figure 3 , the neck side point SNP and the shoulder point SP of the front and back pieces of the body can be connected respectively to obtain new front shoulder lines and back shoulder lines. The inclination angles of the new front shoulder lines and back shoulder lines are smaller than the inclination angles of the initial front shoulder lines and back shoulder lines. Such a design can increase the height of the shoulder end point and increase the looseness of the shoulders of the clothing.

[0049] Through steps 1 to 3, the same amount of looseness is added to the front and back pieces of the body. Without changing the position of the neck point SNP, the angles of the front shoulder line and the back shoulder line are lowered compared to the body prototype drawn in step 1, so that the shoulder end point can be raised to increase the looseness of the shoulder of the clothing, laying the foundation for improving the sports functionality of the one-piece raglan sleeve.

[0050] S4, re-determine the front shoulder point on the front shoulder line, re-determine the back shoulder point on the back shoulder line, draw a front armhole arc line between the front shoulder point and the front side seam of the front body piece; draw a back armhole arc line between the back shoulder point and the back side seam of the back body piece; Figure 4 As shown, since the distance between the neck point SNP and the shoulder point SP is increased in steps 1 to 3, it is necessary to redetermine the shoulder width and the armhole depth according to the front chest and shoulder blade modeling, determine the front shoulder point and the back shoulder point according to the shoulder width, and draw the armhole arc according to the armhole depth, thereby increasing the height of the shoulder point SP, the height of the shoulder end point of the clothes, and increasing the looseness. The depth of the armhole arc is greater than the depth of the armhole arc of the body prototype. The shoulder line and shoulder point are redetermined through step 4, providing a basis for drawing the sleeve.

[0051] S5, extending the front shoulder line to the length of the sleeve to obtain the front sleeve center line, drawing the front sleeve elbow line on the front sleeve center line, and drawing the front cuff line on the front sleeve center line; extending the back shoulder line to the length of the sleeve to obtain the back sleeve center line, drawing the back sleeve elbow line on the back sleeve center line, and drawing the back cuff line on the back sleeve center line;

[0052] S6. Draw a front shoulder line and a back shoulder line on the front body piece and the back body piece according to the armhole arc line, draw a front sleeve according to the front cuff line, the front sleeve center line and the front shoulder line, and draw a back sleeve according to the back cuff line, the back sleeve center line and the back shoulder line. Figure 5 As shown, through steps 5 and 6, the preliminary shapes of the front and back sleeves can be obtained.

[0053] Among them, Figure 5 As shown, in step 5, the position of the front cuff line close to the sleeve length line has a shrinkage b, the position of the back cuff line close to the sleeve length line has an increment b, the connection line of the front sleeve elbow line and the front cuff line is re-rounded, and the connection line of the back sleeve elbow line and the back cuff line is re-rounded. The shrinkage b and the increment b have the same value in the same plate making, and the range of the value can be 3cm to 7cm, for example, the increment b and the shrinkage b can be 5cm. Through this step, the back of the sleeve can be brought closer to the front piece of the body, which increases the fit and aesthetics. The lengths of the back cuff line and the front cuff line are half of the cuff width respectively.

[0054] S7, taking the front shoulder line, the back shoulder line, the front sleeve center line and the back sleeve center line as references, combining the front sleeve section and the back sleeve section to obtain a raglan sleeve piece. Figure 6 As shown, the raglan sleeve piece obtained in step 7 is a one-piece raglan sleeve piece prototype.

[0055] S8. Let the shoulder point SP be the origin o, draw a line segment mn in the width direction of the loose area of ​​the front body piece, the length of the line segment mn is equal to a / 2, mark the midpoint v of the line segment mn, draw a line segment vf perpendicular to mn through the midpoint v, and intersect at the bottom hem of the front body piece at point f, extend vf to point p, so that the length of the line segment on is equal to the length of the line segment op, draw a perpendicular line through point n and intersect with the bottom hem of the front body piece at point h, connect points o, point p, point f, point h, point n, and point o in sequence, and obtain the folding area opfhn, the width of the folding area opfhn is a / 4, wherein the line segment op and the line segment on are aligned and folded. Figure 7 As shown, the folding area opfhn includes the folding area pfhn of the main body front piece and the folding area opn of the sleeve front piece, that is, by folding the main body front piece and the sleeve front piece, the front part of the sleeve tends to the main body front piece, thereby improving the fit.

[0056] S9. Find point s on the back raglan line so that the length of line segment os is equal to the length of line segment on. Draw a perpendicular line through point s to the bottom hem of the back body piece and intersect at point k. Define line segment os as the sleeve opening line, and define line segment sk as the back body piece opening line. When on is folded to op, osk opens to os'k', and the width of the area skk's' is a / 4; oss' is the sleeve opening part, and sks'k' is the back body opening part, which increases the looseness and movement function of the back sleeves and back body.

[0057] S10, based on step 8 and step 9, the armhole arc is rounded again to obtain a one-piece raglan sleeve pattern, such as Figure 1 As shown in the figure, by folding and opening the shoulder of the raglan sleeve, the front body and the front sleeve are fitted to achieve the purpose of aesthetics. At the same time, the activity of the back sleeve and the back body is increased to meet the purpose of sports function. The amount of folding of the front sleeve and the front body can be determined by calculating the ratio of the comfort looseness to the sports functional looseness and the functional requirements of the clothing category. This makes the one-piece raglan sleeve take into account both fit and integrity, and can meet the overall requirements of users for comfort, beauty and sportiness of clothing. It is a major innovation of the plug-in sleeve technology.

[0058] Although the embodiments of the present invention have been described in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, those skilled in the art may make various modifications and variations without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention, and such modifications and variations are all within the scope defined by the appended claims.

Claims

1. A method for making a one-piece raglan sleeve, characterized in that: include: S1. Draw a prototype of the garment body and divide it into the front part and the back part; S2, taking in a / 2 loose weight from the middle area of ​​the front body piece and the back body piece respectively, where a is the total loose weight of the above garment pieces; S3, connecting the neck side point SNP and the shoulder point SP on the front body piece to obtain a front shoulder line, and connecting the neck side point SNP and the shoulder point SP on the back body piece to obtain a back shoulder line; S4, re-determine the front shoulder point on the front shoulder line, re-determine the back shoulder point on the back shoulder line, draw a front armhole arc line between the front shoulder point and the front side seam of the front body piece; draw a back armhole arc line between the back shoulder point and the back side seam of the back body piece; S5, extending the front shoulder line to the length of the sleeve to obtain the front sleeve center line, drawing the front sleeve elbow line on the front sleeve center line, and drawing the front cuff line on the front sleeve center line; extending the back shoulder line to the length of the sleeve to obtain the back sleeve center line, drawing the back sleeve elbow line on the back sleeve center line, and drawing the back cuff line on the back sleeve center line; S6. Draw a front raglan line and a back raglan line on the front body piece and the back body piece respectively according to the armhole arc line, draw a front panel of the sleeve according to the front cuff line, the front sleeve center line and the front raglan line, and draw a back panel of the sleeve according to the back cuff line, the back sleeve center line and the back raglan line; S7, combining the front width of the sleeve and the back width of the sleeve to obtain a raglan sleeve piece based on the front shoulder line, the back shoulder line, the front sleeve center line and the back sleeve center line; S8, let the shoulder point SP be the origin o, draw a line segment mn in the width direction of the loose area of ​​the front body piece, the length of the line segment mn is equal to a / 2, mark the midpoint v of the line segment mn, draw a line segment vf perpendicular to mn through the midpoint v, intersect the bottom hem of the front body piece at point f, extend vf to point p, so that the length of the line segment on is equal to the length of the line segment op, draw a perpendicular line through point n and intersect the bottom hem of the front body piece at point h, connect points o, p, f, h, n, and o in sequence to obtain the folding area opfhn, the width of the folding area opfhn is a / 4, wherein the line segment op is aligned with the line segment on and folded; S9, find point s on the back raglan line, so that the length of line segment os is equal to the length of line segment on, draw a perpendicular line from point s to the bottom hem of the back body piece and intersect at point k, define line segment os as the sleeve opening line, and define line segment sk as the back body piece opening line. When on is folded to op, osk is opened to os'k', and the width of the area skk's' is a / 4; S10, on the basis of step 8 and step 9, the armhole arc is rounded again to obtain a one-piece raglan sleeve pattern.

2. The plate making method according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step 5, the front cuff line has a shrinkage b near the sleeve length line, and the back cuff line has an increment b near the sleeve length line, and the connecting line between the front sleeve elbow line and the front cuff line is re-rounded, and the connecting line between the back sleeve elbow line and the back cuff line is re-rounded.

3. The plate making method according to claim 2, characterized in that: The values ​​of the shrinkage b and the increment b in the same plate making are the same, and the range of the values ​​is 3 cm to 7 cm.

4. The plate making method according to claim 2, characterized in that: The lengths of the rear cuff line and the front cuff line are respectively half of the cuff width.

5. The plate making method according to claim 1, characterized in that: The looseness 1 / 2a of the front and back pieces is determined by calculating the ratio of the comfort looseness to the sports functional looseness and the functional requirements of the clothing category.

6. The plate making method according to claim 1, characterized in that: The inclination angles of the front shoulder line and the back shoulder line obtained in step S3 are smaller than the inclination angles of the front shoulder line and the back shoulder line of the garment body prototype.

7. The plate making method according to claim 1, characterized in that: The depth of the armhole arc obtained in step S4 is greater than the depth of the armhole arc of the garment body prototype.

8. The plate making method according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S4, the shoulder width and the armhole depth are determined according to the modeling amount of the front chest and the shoulder blade, the front shoulder point and the back shoulder point are determined according to the shoulder width, and the armhole arc is drawn according to the armhole depth.

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