Whitening and moisturizing essence as well as preparation process and application thereof

Abstract

The invention provides whitening and moisturizing essence as well as a preparation process and application thereof, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. The essence is prepared from tranexamic acid, nicotinamide, macromolecular hyaluronic acid, micromolecular hyaluronic acid, hexapeptide-2, an althaea rosea flower extract, a rhodiola sachalinensis extract, a glycyrrhiza glabra extract, a coast pine needle extract, a polyhydric alcohol humectant, vegetable fat and the like. Wherein the hollyhock flower extract, the rhodiola sachalinensis extract, the glycyrrhiza glabra extract and the coast pine needle extract are respectively obtained by adopting a special enzymolysis method. The tranexamic acid and the nicotinamide are used for synergistically whitening, the hyaluronic acid, the polyhydric alcohols and the vegetable fat are used for jointly moisturizing, the plant extract is used for enhancing oxidation resistance, whitening and safety, the components are ensured to be uniform and stable through a reasonable preparation process, and the effect of the essence is favorably improved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular relates to a whitening and moisturizing essence and a preparation process and application thereof. Background Art

[0002] In modern society, external factors such as ultraviolet radiation, air pollution, and blue light from electronic devices are increasingly damaging the skin. UVA and UVB in ultraviolet rays can penetrate the surface of the skin and stimulate melanocytes to produce a large amount of melanin, causing skin darkening, spots and other pigmentation problems. Long-term exposure to polluted environments can easily damage the skin's moisturizing barrier, accelerate water loss, and make the skin dry, rough, and inelastic.

[0003] From the perspective of skin physiology, the normal skin metabolism cycle is about 28 days, but due to various adverse factors, metabolism may slow down, melanin is difficult to be effectively excreted, the moisturizing factor of the stratum corneum is reduced, and the skin's self-repair and moisturizing ability is reduced.

[0004] Traditional whitening products mostly use a single whitening ingredient, such as vitamin C and its derivatives, arbutin, etc. Although these ingredients can inhibit melanin production to a certain extent, they have problems such as poor stability and low bioavailability. For example, vitamin C is easily oxidized, and its whitening effect will be greatly reduced during storage and use. Pure moisturizing products often only focus on replenishing skin moisture and lack improvement in the overall condition of the skin.

[0005] In recent years, with the advancement of science and technology, the research and development of whitening and moisturizing products has made new breakthroughs. On the one hand, a variety of new whitening ingredients have been discovered and applied, such as tranexamic acid, which can effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, reduce the formation of melanin, and has high stability; niacinamide can not only inhibit the transfer of melanin to the stratum corneum, but also has a certain effect of improving the skin barrier function and can assist in moisturizing. On the other hand, in terms of moisturizing, products of different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid are widely used. Large molecular hyaluronic acid forms a breathable film on the surface of the skin to prevent water loss, while small molecular hyaluronic acid can penetrate into the bottom layer of the skin, replenish moisture and promote collagen synthesis. In addition, plant extracts such as licorice extract and grape seed extract have become popular choices in the formula of whitening and moisturizing essences because of their antioxidant, whitening and moisturizing properties and are relatively safe and mild. They can not only work in synergy with other ingredients, but also reduce the risk of irritation and allergies that may be caused by chemical synthetic ingredients.

[0006] However, currently, there are many kinds of whitening and moisturizing products, with varying effects, and the following problems are common:

[0007] (1) Effect visibility problem: The whitening effect is not obvious and the usage period is long.

[0008] (2) Ingredient safety issues: Some ingredients pose risks. For example, arbutin may hydrolyze into hydroquinone under acidic, high-concentration, and long-term storage conditions, causing damage to the skin.

[0009] (3) Excessive amounts of irritants: Some essences contain excessive amounts of alcohol, preservatives and other irritants, which can easily cause skin itching, redness and other discomfort reactions. Long-term use can also accelerate skin aging.

[0010] (4) Ingredient conflict: If the ingredients of different whitening essences are mixed, the whitening effect may be affected or damage the skin due to ingredient conflicts. For example, mixing niacinamide with acidic substances will release niacin and irritate the skin.

[0011] Therefore, the research and development of whitening and moisturizing products should continue to develop in a more efficient, safe and multifunctional direction to address skin problems and meet consumer needs. Summary of the invention

[0012] The existing whitening and moisturizing products have problems such as unclear effects, long use cycles, ingredient safety risks, and ingredient conflicts. The present invention provides a whitening and moisturizing essence and its preparation process and application, which uses tranexamic acid and niacinamide for synergistic whitening, hyaluronic acid and polyols and plant oils for joint moisturizing, and plant extracts for enhanced antioxidant, whitening and safety. A reasonable preparation process is used to ensure uniform and stable ingredients, which helps to improve the efficacy of the essence, thereby solving some of the problems of existing products to a certain extent, using efficient and stable ingredients to solve the problem of unclear effects, avoiding high-risk ingredients to ensure safety, and using a reasonable formula to reduce ingredient conflicts. The specific technical scheme is as follows:

[0013] A whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 3% to 5% tranexamic acid, 4% to 6% niacinamide, 1% to 2% macromolecular hyaluronic acid, 0.5% to 1% micromolecular hyaluronic acid, 0.001% to 0.005% hexapeptide-2, 2% to 3% hollyhock flower extract, 2% to 3% rhodiola rosea extract, 1% to 2% licorice extract, 2% to 3% coastal pine needle extract, 5% to 10% polyol moisturizer, 1% to 2% vegetable oil, 0.3% to 0.5% mild preservative, and the balance is deionized water.

[0014] In the above essence, the molecular weight of the macromolecular hyaluronic acid ranges from 1.8 million Da to 2 million Da.

[0015] In the above essence, the molecular weight of the small molecule hyaluronic acid is in the range of 10,000 Da to 50,000 Da.

[0016] In the above essence, the polyol moisturizer includes glycerol and propylene glycol, and the mass ratio is glycerol:propylene glycol = (1-3): (2-5).

[0017] In the above essence, the plant oil is jojoba oil.

[0018] In the above essence, the mild preservative is phenoxyethanol.

[0019] In the above essence, the preparation method of the hollyhock flower extract comprises the following steps: crushing hollyhock flowers, adding a phosphate buffer solution with a pH value of 5.5 to 6.5 and a concentration of 5 to 10 times the mass of the hollyhock flowers, stirring evenly, adding a complex enzyme with a concentration of 0.5% to 1.5% by mass of the hollyhock flowers, and performing enzymolysis for 2 hours to 4 hours at a temperature of 35° C. to 45° C. and a rotation speed of 100 r / min to 200 r / min; then adjusting the pH value to 6 to 7, adding 0.5% to 1.5% by mass of bromelain and 0.5% to 1.5% by mass of hollyhock flowers, and stirring at a temperature of 50° C. to 55° C. and a rotation speed of 100 r / min to 200 r / min. The enzymolysis is carried out for 1h to 1.5h at a rotation speed of n to 200r / min; after the enzymolysis is completed, the temperature is rapidly raised to 80°C to 90°C and maintained for 10min to 15min to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a hollyhock flower enzymolysis solution; the hollyhock flower enzymolysis solution is filtered through a sieve and then filtered through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, which is concentrated to a water content of 50wt% to 60wt% to obtain a hollyhock flower extract.

[0020] In the above essence, the preparation method of the holy land rhodiola rosea extract comprises the following steps: taking the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome and crushing it, adding citric acid-sodium citrate buffer solution with a pH of 4.0-5.0 and a weight of 8 to 12 times the weight of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, stirring evenly, adding 1% to 2% papain with a weight of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, enzymolysis at 40°C to 50°C and a speed of 150r / min to 250r / min for 2h to 3h, then adjusting the pH to 5.5-6.0, adding 1% of the weight of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome ~2% of fig protease, enzymolysis for 1h~1.5h at 60℃~65℃ and 150r / min~250r / min rotation speed; after the enzymolysis is completed, the temperature is quickly raised to 85℃~95℃, and maintained for 10min~15min to inactivate the enzyme to obtain the holy land rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution; the holy land rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution is filtered through a sieve, and then filtered through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrated to 50wt%~60wt% water content to obtain the holy land rhodiola rosea extract.

[0021] In the above essence, the preparation method of the licorice extract comprises the following steps: taking licorice root and crushing it, adding acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer with a pH of 5.0-6.0 and a weight of 8 to 10 times that of the licorice root, adding 0.5% to 1.5% of the weight of the licorice root, 0.8% to 1.6% of the weight of the licorice root, β-glucanase and 1% to 2% of the weight of the licorice root, and heating at 38°C to 42°C. The enzymolysis is carried out for 3 hours to 4 hours at a rotation speed of 100 r / min to 200 r / min; after the enzymolysis is completed, the temperature is rapidly raised to 85° C. to 95° C. and maintained for 10 minutes to 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a glycyrrhiza glabra enzymolysis solution; the glycyrrhiza glabra enzymolysis solution is filtered through a sieve, and then filtered through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and the filtrate is concentrated to a water content of 50wt% to 60wt% to obtain a glycyrrhiza glabra extract.

[0022] In the above essence, the preparation method of the coastal pine needle extract comprises the following steps: taking coastal pine needles, crushing them, adding Tr i with a mass of 8 to 10 times that of the coastal pine needles and a pH of 7.0 to 8.0, s-HCl buffer, adding laccase of 1.2% to 2.2% by weight of coastal pine needles, enzymolysis for 4h to 6h at 25℃ to 35℃ and a rotation speed of 100r / min to 150r / min, then adding subtilisin of 1% to 1.5% by weight of coastal pine needles, enzymolysis for 2h to 3h at 50℃ to 60℃ and a rotation speed of 100r / min to 150r / min; after the enzymolysis is completed, the temperature is rapidly raised to 75℃ to 85℃, maintained for 10min to 15min to inactivate the enzyme, and a coastal pine needle enzymolysis solution is obtained; the coastal pine needle enzymolysis solution is filtered through a sieve, and then filtered through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrated to a water content of 50wt% to 60wt% to obtain a coastal pine needle extract.

[0023] In the preparation method of the hibiscus flower extract and the preparation method of the licorice glabra extract, the complex enzyme includes cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, and the mass ratio of cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase is (1-2): (0.5-1): (0.5-1).

[0024] In the preparation methods of the hibiscus flower extract, the sanctuary rhodiola rosea extract, the licorice glabra extract and the coastal pine needle extract, the mesh number of the sieve filtration is 200-250 meshes.

[0025] The preparation method of the above-mentioned whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following steps:

[0026] S1: Add macromolecular hyaluronic acid and small molecular hyaluronic acid into 60% to 70% by mass of deionized water, and stir continuously at 300 r / min to 500 r / min for 30 min to 45 min to fully swell until a uniform and transparent colloidal solution A is formed;

[0027] S2: adding tranexamic acid, niacinamide, hexapeptide-2, hibiscus flower extract, rhodiola rosea extract, licorice extract and coastal pine needle extract to the remaining 30% to 40% by mass of deionized water, and mixing well to obtain a mixed solution B;

[0028] S3: uniformly mixing the polyol moisturizer and the vegetable oil to obtain a mixture C;

[0029] S4: Add mixed solution B to colloidal solution A, stir and mix at 400 r / min~600 r / min for 20min~30min to ensure uniform dispersion, then add mixed solution C, stir and mix at 300 r / min~500 r / min for 20min~30min to further integrate the system, finally add mild preservative, stir and mix at 300 r / min~500 r / min for 5min~10min until uniform, to obtain whitening and moisturizing essence.

[0030] Application of the above-mentioned whitening and moisturizing essence in cosmetics with whitening and moisturizing effects.

[0031] The whitening and moisturizing essence of the present invention and its preparation process and application have the following beneficial effects:

[0032] 1. The essence of the present invention includes tranexamic acid, niacinamide, large molecule hyaluronic acid, small molecule hyaluronic acid, hexapeptide-2, hibiscus flower extract, rhodiola rosea extract, licorice extract, coastal pine needle extract, polyol moisturizer, plant oil and other ingredients. The combination of the ingredients has good whitening and moisturizing effects and improves light spots.

[0033] 2. The molecular weight of macromolecular hyaluronic acid is relatively large, and it can form a breathable moisturizing film on the skin surface, preventing the moisture inside the skin from escaping to the outside, playing a role in locking in moisture. The molecular weight of micromolecular hyaluronic acid is small, and it can penetrate into the stratum corneum of the skin, increase the water content of the stratum corneum, and moisturize the skin from the inside. Polyol moisturizers have water absorption and water locking properties, and combine with the moisture in the skin to keep the skin hydrated.

[0034] 3. Tranexamic acid achieves a whitening effect by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase and reducing the formation of melanin. Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in the synthesis of melanin, and the inhibition of tranexamic acid can reduce the production of melanin. Niacinamide mainly prevents melanocytes from transporting melanosomes to keratinocytes, reduces the transfer of melanin to the surface of the skin, and makes the skin lighter.

[0035] 4. Licorice extract contains glabridin, which can penetrate deep into the skin to inhibit tyrosinase activity and reduce melanin production. It can inhibit melanocytes from producing melanin, reduce the formation of spots, and also has a certain effect on lightening the existing spots. At the same time, its antioxidant effect can reduce the damage of free radicals to the skin and help maintain the skin's bright white state.

[0036] 5. Hexapeptide-2 regulates the metabolism of skin cells, accelerates the shedding of pigmented keratinocytes, and reduces the deposition of spots on the skin surface.

[0037] 6. The hollyhock flower extract is obtained by enzymolysis of hollyhock flowers with a compound enzyme, and then enzymolysis with bromelain and ginger protease to obtain an extract below 5000Da. The compound enzyme enzymolysis process can decompose the cell wall of hollyhock flowers, making the polysaccharides and other moisturizing ingredients therein easier to dissolve. These small molecule moisturizing ingredients can be better absorbed by the skin and enhance the moisturizing effect. Enzymolysis can release more active ingredients, and hydrolyze to generate small molecule protein peptides. These ingredients have antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory effects, thereby playing a better effect in whitening and lightening spots. The small molecule extract is obtained by precisely controlling the enzymolysis conditions and filtration, ensuring the purity and effectiveness of the active ingredients.

[0038] 7. The extract of Rhodiola rosea is obtained by enzymolysis of the rhizome of Rhodiola rosea with papain and ficin, and the extract below 5000Da is obtained. Protease hydrolysis can obtain certain small molecule peptides. The small molecule extract obtained by ultrafiltration membrane filtration is easier to be absorbed by the skin. Enzymolysis under different conditions using papain and ficin can release active ingredients such as salidroside, which has the effects of anti-oxidation and inhibition of tyrosinase, and is more effective in whitening, moisturizing and lightening spots. The precise inactivation and filtration steps after enzymolysis ensure the quality and activity of the extract.

[0039] 8. Licorice extract uses multiple enzymes from Licorice root to fully release the moisturizing ingredients such as polysaccharides in Licorice root. The resulting small molecule extract is more conducive to skin absorption and enhances the moisturizing effect. The synergistic effect of complex enzymes, β-glucanase and ficin can fully decompose the cell wall and release effective whitening and spot-removing ingredients such as glabridin and enzymatic small peptides.

[0040] 9. The coastal pine needle extract is hydrolyzed by laccase and subtilisin to obtain an extract below 5000Da. The step-by-step enzymatic hydrolysis can fully decompose the cell wall of the coastal pine needle, releasing the moisturizing ingredients such as polysaccharides and amino acids therein. The small molecule extract is more easily absorbed by the skin, improving the moisturizing effect. The step-by-step enzymatic hydrolysis of laccase and subtilisin can release ingredients with antioxidant and whitening effects, such as polyphenols, small molecule peptides, etc.

[0041] 10. Hollyhock flower extract, Rhodiola rosea extract, Licorice extract and pine needle extract all contain certain polysaccharide and other moisturizing ingredients. Their combined use can form a multi-level moisturizing system, from locking water on the skin surface (similar to the effect of large molecular hyaluronic acid) to moisturizing inside (similar to the effect of small molecular hyaluronic acid), enhancing the overall moisturizing effect of the skin. At the same time, synergistically with polyol moisturizers, it can further increase the water content of the skin and keep the skin moisturized for a long time. These extracts all contain ingredients that can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, such as flavonoids, salidroside, glabridin, various small molecule peptides, etc. Combined use can inhibit the formation of melanin from multiple links and play a synergistic whitening effect. At the same time, their antioxidant effect can remove free radicals in the skin and reduce the stimulation of free radicals on melanocytes, thereby further reducing the production of melanin, enhancing the whitening effect, and preventing the aggravation of spots, and comprehensively achieving a better spot-lightening effect. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0042] The present invention is further described below in conjunction with specific implementation cases, but the present invention is not limited to these embodiments.

[0043] Example 1

[0044] A whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 4% tranexamic acid, 5% niacinamide, 1.5% macromolecular hyaluronic acid, 0.8% micromolecular hyaluronic acid, 0.003% hexapeptide-2, 2.5% hollyhock flower extract, 2.5% rhodiola rosea extract, 1.5% licorice extract, 2.5% coastal pine needle extract, 8% polyol moisturizer, 1.5% vegetable oil, 0.4% mild preservative, and the balance is deionized water.

[0045] Among them, the molecular weight of large molecular hyaluronic acid ranges from 1.8 million Da to 2 million Da. The molecular weight of small molecular hyaluronic acid ranges from 10,000 Da to 50,000 Da. Polyol moisturizers include glycerol and propylene glycol, with a mass ratio of glycerol:propylene glycol = 2:3. The vegetable oil is jojoba oil. The mild preservative is phenoxyethanol.

[0046] The preparation method of hollyhock flower extract comprises the following steps: crushing hollyhock flowers, adding a phosphate buffer solution with a pH value of 6.0 and a mass value of 8 times that of hollyhock flowers, stirring evenly, adding a composite enzyme with a mass value of 1.0% of hollyhock flowers, wherein the composite enzyme comprises cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, and the mass ratio of cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase is 1.5:0.8:0.8, and enzymolysis is performed at 40°C and a rotation speed of 150r / min for 3h; then adjusting the pH value to 6.5, adding 1.0% bromelain and 1.0% ginger protease by weight of hollyhock flower are enzymolyzed at 52° C. and 150 r / min for 1 hour; after the enzymolysis is completed, the temperature is rapidly raised to 85° C. and maintained for 12 minutes to inactivate the enzymes to obtain a hollyhock flower enzymolyzate; the hollyhock flower enzymolyzate is filtered through a 250-mesh sieve and then through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, which is concentrated to a water content of 55wt% to obtain a hollyhock flower extract.

[0047] The preparation method of the extract of Rhodiola rosea includes the following steps: crushing the rhizomes of Rhodiola rosea, adding a citric acid-sodium citrate buffer solution with a pH value of 4.5 and a mass of 10 times the mass of the rhizomes of Rhodiola rosea, stirring evenly, adding 1.5% of papain with a mass of the rhizomes of Rhodiola rosea, performing enzymolysis at 45°C and a speed of 200 r / min for 2.5 hours, then adjusting the pH to 5.8, adding 1.5% of fig protease with a mass of the rhizomes of Rhodiola rosea, performing enzymolysis at 62°C and a speed of 200 r / min for 1 hour; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 90°C and maintaining for 12 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a Rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution; filtering the Rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution with a 250-mesh sieve, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, concentrating to a water content of 50wt%, and obtaining a Rhodiola rosea extract.

[0048] The preparation method of the licorice extract comprises the following steps: taking the licorice root and crushing it, adding an acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with a pH of 5.5 and a mass of 9 times that of the licorice root, adding a composite enzyme with a mass of 1.0% of the licorice root, the composite enzyme comprising cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, and the mass ratio of cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase is 1.5:0.8:0.8, then adding 1.2% of the mass of the licorice root and 1.5% of the mass of the fig proteinase, and performing enzymolysis for 3.5 hours at 40° C. and a rotation speed of 150 r / min; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 90° C. and maintaining for 12 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a licorice hydrolyzate; filtering the licorice hydrolyzate with a 250-mesh screen, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating it to a water content of 55wt% to obtain a licorice extract.

[0049] In the above-mentioned essence, the preparation method of the coastal pine needle extract includes the following steps: taking coastal pine needles, crushing them, adding Tris-HCl buffer with a pH of 7.5 and 9 times the mass of coastal pine needles, adding laccase with a mass of 1.8% of the mass of coastal pine needles, enzymolysis for 5 hours at 30°C and a speed of 120r / min, and then adding subtilisin with a mass of 1.2% of the mass of coastal pine needles, enzymolysis for 2.5 hours at 55°C and a speed of 120r / min; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 80°C and maintaining for 12 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a coastal pine needle enzymolysis solution; filtering the coastal pine needle enzymolysis solution with a 250-mesh screen, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, concentrating to a water content of 60wt%, and obtaining a coastal pine needle extract.

[0050] The preparation method of the above-mentioned whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following steps:

[0051] S1: Add macromolecular hyaluronic acid and small molecular hyaluronic acid into 65% by mass deionized water, and stir continuously at 400 r / min for 40 min to fully swell until a uniform and transparent colloidal solution A is formed;

[0052] S2: adding tranexamic acid, niacinamide, hexapeptide-2, hibiscus flower extract, rhodiola rosea extract, licorice extract and coastal pine needle extract to the remaining 35% by mass of deionized water, and mixing well to obtain a mixed solution B;

[0053] S3: uniformly mixing the polyol moisturizer and the vegetable oil to obtain a mixture C;

[0054] S4: Add mixed solution B to colloidal solution A, stir and mix at 500 r / min for 25 minutes to ensure uniform dispersion, then add mixed solution C, stir and mix at 400 r / min for 25 minutes to further integrate the system, finally add mild preservative, stir and mix at 400 r / min for 8 minutes until uniform, sterilize, and obtain whitening and moisturizing essence.

[0055] The whitening and moisturizing essence of this embodiment is used in cosmetics with whitening and moisturizing effects.

[0056] Example 2

[0057] A whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 3% tranexamic acid, 4% niacinamide, 1% macromolecular hyaluronic acid, 0.5% micromolecular hyaluronic acid, 0.001% hexapeptide-2, 2% hollyhock flower extract, 2% rhodiola rosea extract, 1% licorice extract, 2% coastal pine needle extract, 5% polyol moisturizer, 1% vegetable oil, 0.3% mild preservative, and the balance is deionized water.

[0058] Among them, the molecular weight of large molecular hyaluronic acid ranges from 1.8 million Da to 2 million Da. The molecular weight of small molecular hyaluronic acid ranges from 10,000 Da to 50,000 Da. Polyol moisturizers include glycerol and propylene glycol, with a mass ratio of glycerol:propylene glycol = 1:2. The vegetable oil is jojoba oil. The mild preservative is phenoxyethanol.

[0059] The preparation method of hollyhock flower extract comprises the following steps: crushing hollyhock flower, adding phosphate buffer solution with pH 5.5 and 5 times the mass of hollyhock flower, stirring evenly, adding 0.5% of composite enzyme by mass of hollyhock flower, the composite enzyme comprising cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, the mass ratio of cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase=1:0.5:0.5, enzymolysis for 2h at 35°C and 100r / min speed; then adjusting pH 6, adding 0.5% of bromelain by mass of hollyhock flower and 0.5% of ginger protease by mass of hollyhock flower, enzymolysis for 1h at 50°C and 100r / min speed; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 80°C, keeping for 10min to inactivate the enzyme, and obtaining hollyhock flower enzymolysis solution; filtering the hollyhock flower enzymolysis solution with a 200-mesh screen, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating it to a water content of 50wt% to obtain a hollyhock flower extract.

[0060] The preparation method of the extract of Rhodiola rosea includes the following steps: taking the rhizome of Rhodiola rosea for crushing, adding citric acid-sodium citrate buffer solution with a pH value of 4.0 and 8 times the mass of the rhizome of Rhodiola rosea, stirring evenly, adding 1% papain with a mass value of the rhizome of Rhodiola rosea, enzymolysis for 2 hours at 40°C and a rotation speed of 150r / min, then adjusting the pH to 5.5, adding 1% fig protease with a mass value of the rhizome of Rhodiola rosea, and enzymolysis for 1 hour at 60°C and a rotation speed of 150r / min; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 85°C and maintaining for 10 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a Rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution; filtering the Rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution with a 200-mesh sieve, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, concentrating to a water content of 50wt%, and obtaining a Rhodiola rosea extract.

[0061] The preparation method of the licorice extract comprises the following steps: taking the licorice root and crushing it, adding acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with a pH of 5.0 and 8 times the weight of the licorice root, adding 0.5% of the weight of the licorice root, the complex enzyme comprising cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, and the mass ratio of cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase is 1:0.5:0.5, then adding 0.8% of the weight of the licorice root beta-glucanase and 1% of the weight of the licorice root ficin, and performing enzymolysis for 3 hours at 38°C and a speed of 100r / min; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 85°C and maintaining for 10 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a licorice hydrolyzate; filtering the licorice hydrolyzate with a 200-mesh screen, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating it to a water content of 60wt% to obtain a licorice extract.

[0062] In the above-mentioned essence, the preparation method of the coastal pine needle extract includes the following steps: taking coastal pine needles, crushing them, adding Tris-HCl buffer with a pH of 7.0 and 8 times the mass of coastal pine needles, adding laccase with a mass of 1.2% of the mass of coastal pine needles, enzymolysis for 4 hours at 25°C and a speed of 100r / min, and then adding subtilisin with a mass of 1% of the mass of coastal pine needles, and enzymolysis for 2 hours at 50°C and a speed of 100r / min; after the enzymolysis is completed, quickly heating to 75°C and maintaining for 10 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a coastal pine needle enzymolysis solution; filtering the coastal pine needle enzymolysis solution with a 200-mesh sieve, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, concentrating to a water content of 50wt%, and obtaining a coastal pine needle extract.

[0063] The preparation method of the above-mentioned whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following steps:

[0064] S1: Add macromolecular hyaluronic acid and small molecular hyaluronic acid into 60% by mass deionized water, stir continuously at 300 r / min for 30 min, and fully swell until a uniform and transparent colloidal solution A is formed;

[0065] S2: adding tranexamic acid, niacinamide, hexapeptide-2, hibiscus flower extract, rhodiola rosea extract, licorice extract and coastal pine needle extract to the remaining 40% by mass of deionized water, and mixing well to obtain a mixed solution B;

[0066] S3: uniformly mixing the polyol moisturizer and the vegetable oil to obtain a mixture C;

[0067] S4: Add mixed solution B to colloidal solution A, stir and mix at 400 r / min for 20 minutes to ensure uniform dispersion, then add mixed solution C, stir and mix at 300 r / min for 20 minutes to further integrate the system, finally add mild preservative, stir and mix at 300 r / min for 5 minutes until uniform, sterilize, and obtain whitening and moisturizing essence.

[0068] The whitening and moisturizing essence of this embodiment is used in cosmetics with whitening and moisturizing effects.

[0069] Example 3

[0070] A whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 3% tranexamic acid, 6% niacinamide, 1% macromolecular hyaluronic acid, 1% micromolecular hyaluronic acid, 0.001% hexapeptide-2, 3% hollyhock flower extract, 2% rhodiola rosea extract, 2% licorice extract, 2% coastal pine needle extract, 10% polyol moisturizer, 1% vegetable oil, 0.5% mild preservative, and the balance is deionized water.

[0071] Among them, the molecular weight of large molecular hyaluronic acid ranges from 1.8 million Da to 2 million Da. The molecular weight of small molecular hyaluronic acid ranges from 10,000 Da to 50,000 Da. Polyol moisturizers include glycerol and propylene glycol, with a mass ratio of glycerol:propylene glycol = 1:5. The vegetable oil is jojoba oil. The mild preservative is phenoxyethanol.

[0072] The preparation method of hollyhock flower extract comprises the following steps: crushing hollyhock flower, adding phosphate buffer solution with pH 6.5 and 5 times the mass of hollyhock flower, stirring evenly, adding composite enzyme with mass ratio of 0.5% of hollyhock flower, including cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, with mass ratio of cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase=2:0.5:1, enzymolysis for 2h at 35℃ and 200r / min speed; then adjusting pH to 7, adding 0.5% bromelain with mass ratio of hollyhock flower and 1.5% ginger protease with mass ratio of hollyhock flower, enzymolysis for 1h at 50℃ and 200r / min speed; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 90℃, maintaining for 10min to inactivate the enzyme, and obtaining hollyhock flower enzymolysis solution; filtering the hollyhock flower enzymolysis solution with a 250-mesh screen, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating it to a water content of 60wt% to obtain hollyhock flower extract.

[0073] The preparation method of the extract of Rhodiola rosea includes the following steps: crushing the rhizomes of Rhodiola rosea, adding a citric acid-sodium citrate buffer solution with a pH value of 4.0 and a mass of 12 times the mass of the rhizomes of Rhodiola rosea, stirring evenly, adding 2% of the mass of papain of the rhizomes of Rhodiola rosea, performing enzymolysis at 40°C and 250r / min for 2h, then adjusting the pH to 6.0, adding 1% of the mass of fig protease of the rhizomes of Rhodiola rosea, performing enzymolysis at 65°C and 150r / min for 1.5h; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 85°C and maintaining for 15min to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a Rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution; filtering the Rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution with a 200-mesh sieve, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, concentrating to a water content of 60wt%, and obtaining a Rhodiola rosea extract.

[0074] The preparation method of the licorice extract comprises the following steps: taking the licorice root and crushing it, adding acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with a pH of 6.0 and 8 times the weight of the licorice root, adding 0.5% of the weight of the licorice root, the complex enzyme comprises cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, and the weight ratio is cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase=2:0.5:1, then adding 0.8% of the weight of the licorice root beta-glucanase and 2% of the weight of the licorice root ficin, and performing enzymolysis for 3 hours at 38°C and 200r / min speed; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 95°C and maintaining for 10 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a licorice hydrolyzate; filtering the licorice hydrolyzate with a 250-mesh screen, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating it to a water content of 53wt% to obtain a licorice extract.

[0075] In the above-mentioned essence, the preparation method of the coastal pine needle extract includes the following steps: taking coastal pine needles, crushing them, adding Tris-HCl buffer with a pH of 7.0 and a mass of 10 times that of the coastal pine needles, adding laccase with a mass of 2.2% of the coastal pine needles, enzymolysis for 4 hours at 25°C and a speed of 150r / min, and then adding subtilisin with a mass of 1.5% of the coastal pine needles, and enzymolysis for 2 hours at 50°C and a speed of 150r / min; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 85°C and maintaining for 10 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a coastal pine needle enzymolysis solution; filtering the coastal pine needle enzymolysis solution with a 250-mesh sieve, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating it to a water content of 56wt% to obtain a coastal pine needle extract.

[0076] The preparation method of the above-mentioned whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following steps:

[0077] S1: Add macromolecular hyaluronic acid and small molecular hyaluronic acid into 70% by mass deionized water, stir continuously at 300 r / min for 45 min, and fully swell until a uniform and transparent colloidal solution A is formed;

[0078] S2: adding tranexamic acid, niacinamide, hexapeptide-2, hibiscus flower extract, rhodiola rosea extract, licorice extract and coastal pine needle extract to the remaining 30% by mass of deionized water, and mixing well to obtain a mixed solution B;

[0079] S3: uniformly mixing the polyol moisturizer and the vegetable oil to obtain a mixture C;

[0080] S4: Add mixed solution B to colloidal solution A, stir and mix at 600 r / min for 20 min to ensure uniform dispersion, then add mixed solution C, stir and mix at 500 r / min for 20 min to further integrate the system, finally add mild preservative, stir and mix at 500 r / min for 5 min until uniform, sterilize, and obtain whitening and moisturizing essence.

[0081] The whitening and moisturizing essence of this embodiment is used in cosmetics with whitening and moisturizing effects.

[0082] Example 4

[0083] A whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 5% tranexamic acid, 6% niacinamide, 2% macromolecular hyaluronic acid, 1% micromolecular hyaluronic acid, 0.005% hexapeptide-2, 3% hollyhock flower extract, 3% rhodiola rosea extract, 2% licorice extract, 3% coastal pine needle extract, 10% polyol moisturizer, 2% vegetable oil, 0.5% mild preservative, and the balance is deionized water.

[0084] Among them, the molecular weight of large molecular hyaluronic acid ranges from 1.8 million Da to 2 million Da. The molecular weight of small molecular hyaluronic acid ranges from 10,000 Da to 50,000 Da. Polyol moisturizers include glycerol and propylene glycol, with a mass ratio of glycerol:propylene glycol = 3:5. The vegetable oil is jojoba oil. The mild preservative is phenoxyethanol.

[0085] The preparation method of hollyhock flower extract comprises the following steps: crushing hollyhock flower, adding phosphate buffer solution with a pH value of 6.5 and 10 times the mass of hollyhock flower, stirring evenly, adding composite enzyme with a mass value of 1.5% of hollyhock flower, the composite enzyme comprising cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, with a mass ratio of cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase = 2:1:1, and performing enzymolysis at 45°C and a rotation speed of 200 r / min for 4 hours; then adjusting the pH value to 7, adding bromelain with a mass value of 1.5% of hollyhock flower and ginger protease with a mass value of 1.5% of hollyhock flower, and performing enzymolysis at a rotation speed of 55°C and 200 r / min for 1.5 hours; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 90°C and maintaining for 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain hollyhock flower enzymolysis solution; filtering the hollyhock flower enzymolysis solution with a 250-mesh screen, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating it to a water content of 58wt% to obtain a hollyhock flower extract.

[0086] Among them, the preparation method of the holy land rhodiola rosea extract includes the following steps: taking the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome and crushing it, adding citric acid-sodium citrate buffer solution with a pH of 5.0 and 12 times the mass of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, stirring evenly, adding 2% papain by mass of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, enzymolysis for 3 hours at 50°C and 250r / min, then adjusting the pH to 6.0, adding 2% fig protease by mass of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, and enzymolysis for 1.5 hours at 65°C and 250r / min; after the enzymolysis is completed, quickly heating to 95°C and keeping for 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain the holy land rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution; filtering the holy land rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution with a 250-mesh sieve, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, concentrating it to a water content of 60wt%, and obtaining the holy land rhodiola rosea extract.

[0087] The preparation method of the licorice extract comprises the following steps: taking the licorice root and crushing it, adding acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with a pH of 6.0 and 10 times the weight of the licorice root, adding 1.5% of the weight of the licorice root, the complex enzyme comprising cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, and the weight ratio of cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase is 2:1:1, and then adding 1.6% of the weight of the licorice root beta-glucanase and 2% of the weight of the licorice root fig proteinase, enzymolysis for 4 hours at 42° C. and 200 r / min speed; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 95° C. and maintaining for 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a licorice hydrolyzate; filtering the licorice hydrolyzate with a 250-mesh screen, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating it to a water content of 52wt% to obtain a licorice extract.

[0088] In the above-mentioned essence, the preparation method of the coastal pine needle extract includes the following steps: taking coastal pine needles, crushing them, adding Tris-HCl buffer with a pH of 8.0 and a mass of 10 times that of the coastal pine needles, adding laccase with a mass of 2.2% of the coastal pine needles, enzymolysis for 6 hours at 35°C and a speed of 150r / min, and then adding subtilisin with a mass of 1.5% of the coastal pine needles, and enzymolysis for 3 hours at 60°C and a speed of 150r / min; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 85°C and maintaining for 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a coastal pine needle enzymolysis solution; filtering the coastal pine needle enzymolysis solution with a 250-mesh sieve, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating it to a water content of 54wt% to obtain a coastal pine needle extract.

[0089] The preparation method of the above-mentioned whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following steps:

[0090] S1: Add macromolecular hyaluronic acid and micromolecular hyaluronic acid into 70% by mass deionized water, and stir continuously at 500 r / min for 45 min to fully swell until a uniform and transparent colloidal solution A is formed;

[0091] S2: adding tranexamic acid, niacinamide, hexapeptide-2, hibiscus flower extract, rhodiola rosea extract, licorice extract and coastal pine needle extract to the remaining 30% by mass of deionized water, and mixing well to obtain a mixed solution B;

[0092] S3: uniformly mixing the polyol moisturizer and the vegetable oil to obtain a mixture C;

[0093] S4: Add mixed solution B to colloidal solution A, stir and mix at 600 r / min for 30 minutes to ensure uniform dispersion, then add mixed solution C, stir and mix at 500 r / min for 30 minutes to further integrate the system, finally add mild preservative, stir and mix at 500 r / min for 10 minutes until uniform, sterilize, and obtain whitening and moisturizing essence.

[0094] The whitening and moisturizing essence of this embodiment is used in cosmetics with whitening and moisturizing effects.

[0095] Example 5

[0096] A whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 5% tranexamic acid, 4% niacinamide, 2% macromolecular hyaluronic acid, 0.5% micromolecular hyaluronic acid, 0.005% hexapeptide-2, 2% hollyhock flower extract, 3% rhodiola rosea extract, 1% licorice extract, 3% coastal pine needle extract, 5% polyol moisturizer, 2% vegetable oil, 0.3% mild preservative, and the balance is deionized water.

[0097] Among them, the molecular weight of large molecular hyaluronic acid ranges from 1.8 million Da to 2 million Da. The molecular weight of small molecular hyaluronic acid ranges from 10,000 Da to 50,000 Da. Polyol moisturizers include glycerol and propylene glycol, with a mass ratio of glycerol:propylene glycol = 3:2. The vegetable oil is jojoba oil. The mild preservative is phenoxyethanol.

[0098] The preparation method of hollyhock flower extract comprises the following steps: crushing hollyhock flower, adding phosphate buffer solution with a pH value of 5.5 and 10 times the mass of hollyhock flower, stirring evenly, adding composite enzyme with a mass value of 1.5% of hollyhock flower, the composite enzyme comprising cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, with a mass ratio of cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase=1:1:0.5, and performing enzymolysis at 45°C and a rotation speed of 100 r / min for 4 hours; then adjusting the pH value to 6, adding bromelain with a mass value of 1.5% of hollyhock flower and ginger protease with a mass value of 0.5% of hollyhock flower, and performing enzymolysis at 55°C and a rotation speed of 100 r / min for 1.5 hours; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 80°C and maintaining for 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain hollyhock flower enzymolysis solution; filtering the hollyhock flower enzymolysis solution with a 200-mesh screen, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating it to a water content of 60wt% to obtain a hollyhock flower extract.

[0099] The preparation method of the extract of Rhodiola rosea includes the following steps: crushing the rhizomes of Rhodiola rosea, adding a citric acid-sodium citrate buffer solution with a pH value of 5.0 and a mass of 8 times the mass of the rhizomes of Rhodiola rosea, stirring evenly, adding 1% of papain with a mass of the rhizomes of Rhodiola rosea, performing enzymolysis at 50°C and a rotation speed of 150 r / min for 3 hours, then adjusting the pH to 5.5, adding 2% of fig protease with a mass of the rhizomes of Rhodiola rosea, performing enzymolysis at 60°C and a rotation speed of 250 r / min for 1 hour; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 95°C and maintaining for 10 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a Rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution; filtering the Rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution with a 250-mesh sieve, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, concentrating to a water content of 50wt%, and obtaining a Rhodiola rosea extract.

[0100] The preparation method of the licorice extract comprises the following steps: taking the licorice root and crushing it, adding acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with a pH value of 5.0 and 10 times the weight of the licorice root, adding 1.5% of the weight of the licorice root, the complex enzyme comprising cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, and the weight ratio of cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase is 1:1:0.5, then adding 1.6% of the weight of the licorice root beta-glucanase and 1% of the weight of the licorice root ficin, and performing enzymolysis for 4 hours at 42° C. and a rotation speed of 100 r / min; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 85° C. and maintaining for 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a licorice hydrolyzate; filtering the licorice hydrolyzate with a 200-mesh screen, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating it to a water content of 60wt% to obtain a licorice extract.

[0101] In the above-mentioned essence, the preparation method of the coastal pine needle extract includes the following steps: taking coastal pine needles, crushing them, adding Tris-HCl buffer with a pH of 8.0 and 8 times the mass of coastal pine needles, adding laccase with a mass of 1.2% of the mass of coastal pine needles, enzymolysis for 6 hours at 35°C and a speed of 100r / min, and then adding subtilisin with a mass of 1% of the mass of coastal pine needles, and enzymolysis for 3 hours at 60°C and a speed of 100r / min; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 75°C and maintaining for 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a coastal pine needle enzymolysis solution; filtering the coastal pine needle enzymolysis solution with a 200-mesh screen, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, concentrating to a water content of 58wt%, and obtaining a coastal pine needle extract.

[0102] The preparation method of the above-mentioned whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following steps:

[0103] S1: Add macromolecular hyaluronic acid and small molecular hyaluronic acid into 60% by mass deionized water, and stir continuously at 500 r / min for 30 min to fully swell until a uniform and transparent colloidal solution A is formed;

[0104] S2: adding tranexamic acid, niacinamide, hexapeptide-2, hibiscus flower extract, rhodiola rosea extract, licorice extract and coastal pine needle extract to the remaining 40% by mass of deionized water, and mixing well to obtain a mixed solution B;

[0105] S3: uniformly mixing the polyol moisturizer and the vegetable oil to obtain a mixture C;

[0106] S4: Add mixed solution B to colloidal solution A, stir and mix at 400 r / min for 30 minutes to ensure uniform dispersion, then add mixed solution C, stir and mix at 300 r / min for 30 minutes to further integrate the system, finally add mild preservative, stir and mix at 300 r / min for 10 minutes until uniform, sterilize, and obtain whitening and moisturizing essence.

[0107] The whitening and moisturizing essence of this embodiment is used in cosmetics with whitening and moisturizing effects.

[0108] The enzymatic activity of the cellulase used in the above embodiments is 20,000 U / g, which is derived from Jiangsu Pratt Bioengineering Co., Ltd.; the enzymatic activity of the pectinase is 30,000 U / g, which is derived from Shandong Jishuo Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; the enzymatic activity of the hemicellulase is 100,000 U / g, which is derived from Jiangxi Huayuyuan Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; the enzymatic activity of the bromelain is 500,000 U / g, which is derived from Shanxi Yirun Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; the enzymatic activity of the ginger protease is 100,000 U / g, which is derived from Shanghai Guchen Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; the enzymatic activity of the papain is 100,000 U / g, which is derived from Shaanxi Zhenhe Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; the enzymatic activity of the fig protease is 100,000 U / g, which is derived from Nanjing Songguan Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; the β-glucanase is yeast β-glucanase, which is derived from Shanxi Shuohang Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; the enzymatic activity of the laccase is 100,000 U / g, which is derived from Henan Jinchengde Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; the enzymatic activity of the subtilisin is 20,000 U / g, which is derived from Yuantiddu Biotechnology (Foshan) Co., Ltd.

[0109] The macromolecular hyaluronic acid used in the above embodiments is from Xi'an Youlanda Biotechnology Co., Ltd. The small molecule hyaluronic acid is from Xi'an Youlanda Biotechnology Co., Ltd. Propylene glycol is 1,2-propylene glycol, which is from Shandong Tongxin Chemical Co., Ltd. The vegetable oil is jojoba oil, which is from Jiangxi Huabao Natural Fragrance Oil Co., Ltd.

[0110] Comparative Example 1

[0111] No macromolecular hyaluronic acid is added to the essence, and the content of the macromolecular hyaluronic acid component is replaced by deionized water; other parameters and methods are the same as in Example 1.

[0112] Comparative Example 2

[0113] Hexapeptide-2 was not added to the essence, and the content of hexapeptide-2 was replaced by deionized water; other parameters and methods were the same as in Example 1.

[0114] Comparative Example 3

[0115] No hibiscus flower extract was added to the essence, and the content of the hibiscus flower extract was replaced by deionized water; other parameters and methods were the same as in Example 1.

[0116] Comparative Example 4

[0117] No Rhodiola rosea extract was added to the essence, and the component content of the Rhodiola rosea extract was replaced by deionized water; other parameters and methods were the same as in Example 1.

[0118] Comparative Example 5

[0119] No coastal pine needle extract was added to the essence, and the content of the coastal pine needle extract was replaced by deionized water; other parameters and methods were the same as in Example 1.

[0120] Comparative Example 6

[0121] The essence does not contain Rhodiola rosea extract and coastal pine needle extract, and the content of the components of Rhodiola rosea extract and coastal pine needle extract are replaced by deionized water; other parameters and methods are the same as in Example 1.

[0122] Comparative Example 7

[0123] In the preparation method of hibiscus flower extract, ginger protease is not used for enzymatic hydrolysis; other parameters and methods are the same as those in Example 1.

[0124] Comparative Example 8

[0125] In the preparation method of the Rhodiola rosea extract, no ficin is used for enzymatic hydrolysis; other parameters and methods are the same as in Example 1.

[0126] Comparative Example 9

[0127] In the preparation method of the Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, no ficin is used for enzymatic hydrolysis; other parameters and methods are the same as those in Example 1.

[0128] Comparative Example 10

[0129] The preparation method of the coastal pine needle extract comprises the following steps: crushing the coastal pine needle extract, percolating with ethanol 8 times the mass of the coastal pine needle extract to obtain an ethanol extract, and concentrating the ethanol extract to a water content of 50% to obtain the coastal pine needle extract. Other parameters and methods are the same as those in Example 1.

[0130] Comparative Example 11

[0131] The preparation methods of hibiscus flower extract, rhodiola rosea extract, licorice extract and coastal pine needle extract all adopt the ethanol percolation method, that is, after crushing, ethanol with a mass of 8 times the mass of the crushed material is percolated to obtain an ethanol extract, which is concentrated to 50% water content to obtain an extract. Other parameters and methods are the same as those in Example 1.

[0132] The essences of the above-mentioned embodiments and comparative examples were tested for safety, whitening, moisturizing and spot-lightening effects.

[0133] 1. Safety Testing

[0134] Safety tests were performed on the whitening and moisturizing essences prepared in each embodiment and each comparative example:

[0135] (1) Skin irritation test: 160 healthy adult subjects without skin diseases were selected and randomly divided into 16 groups (10 subjects in each group) for skin closed patch test. 0.1g whitening and moisturizing essence samples were placed in the patch test chambers, and the patch testers were attached to the clear, rash-free skin on the inner side of the upper arm of the subjects. The patch testers were then fixed with medical breathable tape to prevent them from falling off. After keeping it for 24 hours, the patch testers were torn off and marked with a marker. The skin reactions were recorded 30 minutes (the indentation disappeared), 24 hours and 72 hours after the removal of the test patch tester, and the scores were given according to the international skin irritation scoring standards. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

[0136] (2) Cytotoxicity test: A number of human skin keratinocytes cultured in vitro were inoculated in a 96-well plate, and cultured in normal cell culture medium for 24 hours, then replaced with cell culture medium containing whitening and moisturizing essence (essence volume concentration is 10%), and cultured for 48 hours. The cell viability was detected by MTT method, and the absorbance value at 570nm was measured by microplate reader to calculate the relative cell survival rate. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

[0137] Table 1 Safety test results

[0138]

[0139] 2. Whitening performance test

[0140] The whitening performance of the whitening and moisturizing essence prepared in each embodiment and each comparative example was tested respectively:

[0141] (1) Tyrosinase inhibition test: The tyrosinase activity inhibition test was conducted using the Cosmetic Tyrosinase Activity Inhibition Test Method. The concentration of the test solution containing the essence was about 10%. The higher the inhibition rate of the product on tyrosinase, the better the whitening and spot-removing effect. The results are shown in Table 2 below.

[0142] (2) Human skin whitening test: 170 adult subjects with similar skin color and whitening needs were selected and randomly divided into 17 groups (10 subjects in each group). One group was a blank control group, which used a matrix (deionized water) without active ingredients as a placebo. The remaining 16 groups were experimental groups. The essence was applied to one side of the face. Each group used it once in the morning and evening for 8 consecutive weeks. The L value (L value indicates the brightness of the skin, the higher the value, the whiter the skin), a value (indicates the red-green tone of the skin, the smaller the value, the closer to white) and b value (indicates the yellow-blue tone of the skin, the smaller the value, the closer to white) of the skin on both sides of the face were measured using a skin colorimeter. The difference in skin chromaticity before and after use was calculated. The results are shown in Table 2 below.

[0143] Table 2 Tyrosinase activity inhibition results

[0144]

[0145]

[0146] 3. Moisture Testing

[0147] The whitening and moisturizing essences prepared in each embodiment and each comparative example were tested for their moisturizing properties:

[0148] (1) In vitro moisturizing test: 3 g of the essence was weighed and evenly applied on a weighed glass slide, and the glass slide was placed in a desiccator (relative humidity 43% ± 2%, temperature 25°C ± 1°C). The mass change of the glass slide after 8 hours was measured, and the moisture loss rate was calculated. Moisture loss rate = (initial mass - mass after 8 hours) / initial mass × 100%. The test results are shown in Table 3 below.

[0149] (2) Determination of skin moisture content: 160 healthy adult subjects without skin diseases were randomly divided into 16 groups (10 subjects in each group). Essence (about 2 mg / cm2) was applied to the inner area of ​​the arm. 2 ), massage gently until absorbed, measure the moisture content of the skin before using the essence, 1h and 4h after using it, and calculate the percentage increase in moisture content, moisture content increase percentage = (moisture content after use - initial moisture content) / initial moisture content × 100%. The test results are shown in Table 3 below.

[0150] Table 3 Moisture retention test results

[0151]

[0152]

[0153] 4. Spot detection

[0154] The whitening and moisturizing essence prepared in each embodiment and each comparative example was subjected to spot lightening test:

[0155] (1) Zebrafish embryo melanin inhibition test: Take a number of zebrafish embryos, use normal embryo culture medium to culture until 24 hours after fertilization, replace it with embryo culture medium containing whitening and moisturizing essence (essence concentration is 5%), and set up a negative control group (containing only embryo culture medium) at the same time, and continue to culture in a 28°C incubator for 48 hours. The melanin production of zebrafish embryos was observed under a microscope, and the area of ​​melanin was measured using image analysis software, and the melanin inhibition rate was calculated, inhibition rate = (melanin area of ​​negative control group - melanin area of ​​sample group) / melanin area of ​​negative control group × 100%. The measurement results are shown in Table 4 below.

[0156] (2) Observation of the effect of lightening spots on human body: 170 adult subjects with chloasma were selected and randomly divided into 17 groups (10 people in each group), of which 1 group was a blank control group, using a matrix without active ingredients as a placebo, and the remaining 16 groups were test groups. The essence was applied to the facial spots, and each group used it once in the morning and evening. Before use and after 12 weeks of use, the spots were photographed and analyzed, the area and color depth parameters of the spots were measured, and the improvement rate of the spots was calculated, improvement rate = (parameters before use - parameters after use) / parameters before use × 100%. The measurement results are shown in Table 4 below.

[0157] Table 4 Blemish detection results

[0158]

[0159] It can be seen from the above experimental results that the whitening and moisturizing essences prepared in Examples 1 to 5 have safe ingredients, no skin irritation and no cytotoxicity; the tyrosinase inhibition rate can reach more than 78%, which can improve the brightness of human skin and significantly play a whitening effect; the moisturizing properties in vitro and in the human body are good, and have a significant effect on the lightening of chloasma, and can significantly reduce the area of ​​​​the spots and reduce the depth of skin color.From the results of comparative example 1, it can be seen that macromolecular hyaluronic acid has a strong moisturizing effect. If macromolecular hyaluronic acid is not added to the essence, the moisturizing effect is significantly weakened, affecting the absorption rate of the effective ingredients and reducing the whitening effect; from the results of comparative example 2, it can be seen that hexapeptide-2 can regulate the proliferation and differentiation of skin cells, promote the renewal of damaged skin cells faster, revitalize cells, and improve the moisturizing ability and metabolic capacity of cells themselves. If hexapeptide-2 is not added to the essence, the whitening, moisturizing and spot-lightening effects are all reduced; from the results of comparative example 3, it can be seen that hibiscus flower extract has anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, can improve the sensitive state of the skin, is beneficial to skin health, and thus helps the skin better absorb whitening and moisturizing ingredients, thereby improving the whitening and moisturizing effects. Without adding hollyhock flower extract to the essence, the whitening, moisturizing and spot-lightening effects are all reduced; from the results of comparative example 4, it can be seen that the holy land rhodiola rosea extract has the effects of inhibiting melanin production, promoting melanin metabolism, moisturizing and repairing skin barrier. Without adding the holy land rhodiola rosea extract to the essence, the whitening, moisturizing and spot-lightening effects are reduced; from the results of comparative example 5, it can be seen that the coastal pine needle extract can improve skin microcirculation, anti-oxidation, and reduce skin dullness. Without adding the coastal pine needle extract to the essence, the whitening and spot-lightening effects are all reduced; from the results of comparative example 6, it can be seen that without adding both the holy land rhodiola rosea extract and the coastal pine needle extract to the essence, the whitening, moisturizing and spot-lightening effects are all reduced. The whitening, moisturizing and freckle-removing effects were significantly reduced; from the results of Comparative Example 7, it can be seen that in the preparation method of hibiscus flower extract, ginger protease is not used for enzymolysis, the components of the extracted product are different, especially the structures of the hydrolyzed small molecule peptides are different, and the whitening, moisturizing and freckle-removing effects are reduced; from the results of Comparative Example 8, it can be seen that in the preparation method of Rhodiola rosea extract, ficin is not used for enzymolysis, the components of the extracted product are different, especially the structures of the hydrolyzed small molecule peptides are different, and the whitening, moisturizing and freckle-removing effects are all reduced; from the results of Comparative Example 9, it can be seen that in the preparation method of licorice extract, ficin is not used for enzymolysis, the components of the extracted product are different, especially the structures of the hydrolyzed small molecule peptides are different, and the whitening, moisturizing and freckle-removing effects are all reduced. The tyrosinase inhibition and moisturizing effects of Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, as well as the whitening, moisturizing and freckle-lightening effects are all reduced; from the results of Comparative Example 10, it can be seen that the preparation method of the coastal pine needle extract adopts the ethanol percolation method, and there are almost no hydrolyzed small molecule peptides in the coastal pine needle extract, the whitening, moisturizing and freckle-lightening effects are reduced, and the impurities and irritating substances that are not ultrafiltered are increased, causing skin irritation; from the results of Comparative Example 11, it can be seen that the preparation methods of hibiscus flower extract, Rhodiola rosea extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra extract and coastal pine needle extract all adopt the ethanol percolation method, compared with the enzymatic extraction method, the ethanol extraction products are quite different, the products can cause skin irritation, and the whitening, moisturizing and freckle-lightening effects are greatly reduced.

Claims

1. A whitening and moisturizing essence, characterized in that: The essence includes the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 3% to 5% tranexamic acid, 4% to 6% niacinamide, 1% to 2% high-molecular hyaluronic acid, 0.5% to 1% low-molecular hyaluronic acid, 0.001% to 0.005% hexapeptide-2, 2% to 3% hibiscus flower extract, 2% to 3% rhodiola rosea extract, 1% to 2% licorice extract, 2% to 3% coastal pine needle extract, 5% to 10% polyol moisturizer, 1% to 2% vegetable oil, 0.3% to 0.5% mild preservative, and the balance is deionized water.

2. A whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The molecular weight of the macromolecular hyaluronic acid is in the range of 1.8 million Da to 2 million Da; the molecular weight of the small molecule hyaluronic acid is in the range of 10,000 Da to 50,000 Da; the polyol moisturizer includes glycerol and propylene glycol, and the mass ratio is glycerol:propylene glycol = (1-3): (2-5); the vegetable oil is jojoba oil; and the mild preservative is phenoxyethanol.

3. A whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preparation method of the hollyhock flower extract comprises the following steps: taking hollyhock flowers and crushing them, adding a phosphate buffer solution with a pH value of 5.5 to 6.5 and a weight of 5 to 10 times that of the hollyhock flowers, stirring evenly, adding a composite enzyme with a weight of 0.5% to 1.5% of the weight of the hollyhock flowers, and performing enzymolysis for 2 hours to 4 hours at a speed of 100 to 200 r / min at 35 to 45 degrees Celsius; then adjusting the pH value to 6 to 7, adding 0.5% to 1.5% of bromelain with a weight of 0.5% to 1.5% of the weight of the hollyhock flowers and 0.5% to 2.5% of the weight of the hollyhock flowers. 1.5% ginger protease is enzymolyzed at 50°C to 55°C and a rotation speed of 100 r / min to 200 r / min for 1 hour to 1.5 hours; after the enzymolysis is completed, the temperature is rapidly raised to 80°C to 90°C and maintained for 10 minutes to 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a hollyhock flower enzymolysis solution; the hollyhock flower enzymolysis solution is filtered through a sieve and then filtered through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and the filtrate is concentrated to a water content of 50wt% to 60wt% to obtain a hollyhock flower extract.

4. A whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preparation method of the holy land rhodiola rosea extract comprises the following steps: taking the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome and crushing it, adding citric acid-sodium citrate buffer solution with a pH of 4.0-5.0 and a weight of 8 to 12 times of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, stirring evenly, adding 1% to 2% of papain by weight of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, and heating at 40°C to 50°C and 150r / mi The method comprises the following steps: performing enzymolysis for 2 h to 3 h under the condition of a rotation speed of n to 250 r / min, and then adjusting the pH to 5.5 to 6.0, adding 1% to 2% of the mass of the rhizome of Rhodiola rosea, and performing enzymolysis for 1 h to 1.5 h under the condition of 60°C to 65°C and a rotation speed of 150 r / min to 250 r / min; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 85°C to 95°C and maintaining for 10 min to 15 min to inactivate the enzyme, and obtaining a Rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution; filtering the Rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution through a sieve, and then filtering through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating it to a water content of 50wt% to 60wt%, and obtaining a Rhodiola rosea extract.

5. The whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preparation method of the glycyrrhiza glabra extract comprises the following steps: taking glycyrrhiza glabra roots and crushing them, adding acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with a weight of 8 to 10 times that of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots and a pH of 5.0 to 6.0, adding 0.5% to 1.5% of the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots, 0.8% to 1.6% of the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots, and 1% to 2% of the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra root in the form of a complex enzyme, and performing enzymolysis for 3 to 4 hours at 38 to 42° C. and a rotation speed of 100 to 200 r / min; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating the mixture to 85 to 95° C. and maintaining the temperature for 10 to 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme, thereby obtaining a glycyrrhiza glabra enzymolysis solution; filtering the glycyrrhiza glabra enzymolysis solution through a sieve, and then filtering through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating the filtrate to a water content of 50wt% to 60wt%, thereby obtaining the glycyrrhiza glabra extract.

6. The whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preparation method of the coastal pine needle extract comprises the following steps: taking coastal pine needles, crushing them, adding Tris-HCl buffer solution with a mass of 8 to 10 times the mass of the coastal pine needles and a pH of 7.0 to 8.0, adding laccase with a mass of 1.2% to 2.2% of the mass of the coastal pine needles, enzymolysis for 4 to 6 hours at 25°C to 35°C and a rotation speed of 100 r / min to 150 r / min, then adding subtilisin with a mass of 1% to 1.5% of the mass of the coastal pine needles, enzymolysis for 2 to 3 hours at 50°C to 60°C and a rotation speed of 100 r / min to 150 r / min; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 75°C to 85°C, maintaining for 10 to 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme, and obtaining a coastal pine needle enzymolysis solution; filtering the coastal pine needle enzymolysis solution with a sieve, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating it to a water content of 50wt% to 60wt%, and obtaining a coastal pine needle extract.

7. A whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 3 or 5, characterized in that: The complex enzyme comprises cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, and the mass ratio of cellulase:pectinase:hemicellulase is (1-2):(0.5-1):(0.5-1).

8. A whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 3, 4, 5 or 6, characterized in that: The mesh number of the sieve filtration is 200-250 meshes.

9. A method for preparing a whitening and moisturizing essence, for preparing the whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preparation method comprises the following steps: S1: Add macromolecular hyaluronic acid and small molecular hyaluronic acid into 60% to 70% by mass of deionized water, and stir continuously at 300 r / min to 500 r / min for 30 min to 45 min to fully swell until a uniform and transparent colloidal solution A is formed; S2: adding tranexamic acid, niacinamide, hexapeptide-2, hibiscus flower extract, rhodiola rosea extract, licorice extract and coastal pine needle extract to the remaining 30% to 40% by mass of deionized water, and mixing well to obtain a mixed solution B; S3: uniformly mixing the polyol moisturizer and the vegetable oil to obtain a mixture C; S4: Add mixed solution B to colloidal solution A, stir and mix at 400r / min~600r / min for 20min~30min to ensure uniform dispersion, then add mixed solution C, stir and mix at 300r / min~500r / min for 20min~30min to further integrate the system, finally add mild preservative, stir and mix at 300r / min~500r / min for 5min~10min until uniform, to obtain whitening and moisturizing essence.

10. Use of the whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 1 in cosmetics with whitening and moisturizing effects.

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