Shirt collar sewing template with collar brace tangent line and shirt collar sewing method

Abstract

The invention discloses a shirt collar sewing template with a collar brace tangent line. The shirt collar sewing template comprises a bottom plate, a collar brace tangent line positioning plate, a pushing and folding assembly and a top plate. The bottom plate is provided with a collar bottom cutting piece bearing surface and a seam pressing collar bottom cutting piece, and the collar end cutting piece forms two first seam pressing needle grooves in the two opposite side edges of the collar support opening pocket body; the collar support tangent line positioning plate is provided with a collar bottom cutting piece pressing and covering surface, and the collar support tangent line positioning plate is detachably stacked on the bottom plate; the pushing and folding assembly and the collar support tangent positioning plate are correspondingly arranged, and the pushing and folding assembly is configured to removably push and fold the collar bottom cutting piece along the side edge of the collar support tangent positioning plate to form a tangent folding edge including the opening of the pocket body; the top plate is provided with a collar end cutting piece abutting face and a second seam pressing needle groove communicated with the first seam pressing needle groove. Elastic pressing strips are fixedly arranged on the abutting face of the collar end cutting piece, located on the two sides of the second seam pressing needle groove and staggered from the pushing and folding assembly. According to the shirt collar sewing template with the collar brace tangent line, the production efficiency, batch consistency and product quality of shirt collars can be improved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of automated stapling, and in particular to a shirt collar sewing template with a collar support tangent line and a shirt collar sewing method. Background Art

[0002] Collar stays usually refer to small accessories used to enhance the stiffness of shirt collars. They are sometimes called "collar inserts" or "collar bones". They are made of metal (such as steel or aluminum) or plastic. They are usually long strips with a convex corner at one end. Collar stays are inserted into the sewing workpiece of shirt collars. The convex corners serve as the lining of the shirt collar corners. Collar stays need to be removed when washing and ironing, especially metal collar stays.

[0003] The collar pocket of a shirt with a removable collar support includes a collar surface located on the front side and a collar bottom located on the back side. The pocket of the collar pocket is used to connect with the collar seat, and the collar bottom has an open pocket body for accommodating the collar support. The collar bottom is formed by the collar bottom piece as the main body and the collar end pieces located at the two ends of the collar being connected by seaming. The specific manufacturing steps are as follows: first, the two end corners of the collar seat connecting edge of the collar bottom piece are folded toward the collar corners, and the folded collar bottom piece is sewn and connected with the collar end piece. The collar end piece constitutes the two end corners of the collar seat connecting edge of the collar bottom. The seams of the collar bottom piece and the collar end piece are accommodated and guided to the two opposite pocket sides of the open pocket body through which the collar support is inserted. The collar bottom sewing piece and the edge of the collar surface piece are seamed again to obtain a collar pocket with an open collar seat connecting edge. The stitches of the second seams intersect with the stitches of the two opposite pocket sides of the open pocket body, and the stitches of the second seams include the pocket bottom section of the collar support pocket body.

[0004] Traditional sewing requires multiple markings and alignments before sewing. For example, the lining is folded and pressed, and the tangent folded edge of the lining is placed on the predetermined position of the collar bottom piece. This requires multiple processes to complete, which is inefficient. In addition, the uniformity of the stitches and the smoothness of the seams require very high skills from the employees. The collar surface needs to be lined with an adhesive lining. The overlapping parts of the collar surface and the adhesive lining have different drafts at different locations on the collar surface. The difference in drafts directly determines the shape-keeping effect of the shirt collar. The manual operation of flat overlapping and pressing seams cannot differentiate the drafts at different locations on the collar surface. In addition, how to ensure the quality consistency of batch shirts is also one of the main problems in the field of clothing production. Summary of the invention

[0005] One of the purposes of the present invention is to overcome the defects existing in the prior art and provide a shirt collar sewing template with a collar support tangent line. The collar bottom cutting piece is pushed and folded to form a tangent folded edge through the cooperation of the collar support tangent line positioning plate and the push-folding assembly, which is beneficial to improving the production efficiency and consistency of the shirt collar; the fabric surface at the tangent folded edge obtained by push-folding is tight, which effectively reduces defects such as wrinkles or twists at the tangent folded edge, has good shape retention, and achieves a flatness level that does not require ironing.

[0006] In order to achieve the above technical effects, the technical solution of the present invention is: a shirt collar sewing template with a collar support tangent line, comprising: The bottom plate has a collar bottom piece bearing surface and two first pressing seam needle grooves for pressing the collar bottom piece and the collar end piece to form two opposite pocket sides of the collar support opening pocket body; A collar support tangent line positioning plate, having a collar bottom panel pressing surface and a tangent line positioning side edge, which can be removed and overlapped on the bottom plate; A push-folding assembly is disposed corresponding to the collar support tangent positioning plate and is configured to remove and push-fold the collar bottom piece along the tangent positioning side edge to form a tangent folding edge including the opening of the pocket body; The top plate has a collar end panel pressing surface and a second seam pressing needle groove that penetrates the first seam pressing needle groove; The collar end panel pressing surface is fixedly provided with an elastic pressure strip, and the elastic pressure strip is located at both sides of the second pressure seam needle groove and is staggered with the push-folding assembly.

[0007] The preferred technical solution is that the bottom plate and the top plate are both provided with a third sewing needle groove and a fourth sewing needle groove, the third sewing needle groove is connected to one of the first sewing needle grooves at a first angle, the fourth sewing needle groove is connected to the other of the first sewing needle grooves at a second angle, the first angle and the second angle are provided with a collar support insertion gap, and the third sewing needle groove and the fourth sewing needle groove are configured to sew the tangent fold and collar end piece.

[0008] The preferred technical solution is that the collar support tangent positioning plates, push-folding components and top plates are arranged in groups corresponding to each other, and two groups of the collar support tangent positioning plates, push-folding components and top plates are arranged at intervals on the top surface of the bottom plate; The bottom plate and the top plate are provided with a fifth seam pressing needle groove, and the fifth seam pressing needle groove is located between two groups of first seam pressing needle grooves of the top plate.

[0009] The preferred technical solution is that the push-folding assembly includes a horizontal push limiting groove and a push plate movably arranged in the horizontal push limiting groove, and the push plate has a push-folding edge; The push plate has a switchable push-folding station and an avoidance station; the push plate at the push-folding station along the plate thickness direction is blocked at the first press-seam needle groove, and the push plate at the avoidance station avoids the side of the plate surface of the first press-seam needle groove.

[0010] The preferred technical solution is that it also includes a cover plate assembly that can be removably overlapped with the base plate, and the base plate and the cover plate assembly are both provided with a sixth seam needle groove, and the sixth seam needle groove is configured to seam the collar bottom piece, the collar end piece and the collar surface piece to obtain the bottom edge of the pocket body and the collar pocket that is open at the sewing edge of the collar seat.

[0011] The preferred technical solution is that the cover plate assembly includes a removably stacked core plate and a top cover plate, and the core plate and the bottom plate are configured as stitching pieces for clamping and positioning the collar bottom piece and the collar end piece; The core plate has a collar piece bearing surface away from the bottom plate, the collar piece bearing surface is provided with an elastic draft piece, the top cover plate is provided with a draft through hole along the plate thickness direction, and the elastic draft piece is matched with the draft through hole in a concave-convex manner; The collar panel bearing surface is also provided with an anti-slip part.

[0012] The preferred technical solution is that the elastic draft member includes a first draft block and a draft strip, the sixth compression stitch groove of the core plate includes a collar width through groove and a collar length through groove connected at a third angle, the first draft block is arranged within the third angle, and the draft strip is arranged at intervals on the side of the first draft block away from the collar width through groove, and the size of the first draft block along the extension direction of the collar length through groove is larger than the draft strip.

[0013] A preferred technical solution is that the long side direction of the draft strip is consistent with the extension direction of the collar width through groove.

[0014] A preferred technical solution is that the elastic draft member further includes a second draft block, and the second draft block is arranged at intervals on the side of the first draft block away from the third angle along the extending direction of the collar width through slot; One end of the first draft block close to the second draft block has a missing corner, and the missing corner is located on a side of the first draft block away from the collar width through groove.

[0015] A second object of the present invention is to provide a shirt collar sewing method, based on the above-mentioned shirt collar sewing template with collar support tangent line, comprising the following steps: S1: Press the collar bottom piece onto the bottom plate, press the collar support tangent positioning plate onto the collar bottom piece, and fold the two end corners of the collar bottom piece along the tangent positioning side edge to form a tangent folded edge including the pocket opening; S2: pressing the collar end piece on the tangent folded edge, and then pressing the top plate on the collar end piece; S3: removing the collar support tangent positioning plate and the push-folding assembly to allow the first seam pressing needle groove and the second seam pressing needle groove to penetrate along the plate thickness direction; S4: Pressing the seams to form two opposite pocket sides of the collar support opening pocket body.

[0016] The advantages and beneficial effects of the present invention are: The shirt collar sewing template with collar support tangent line forms a tangent folded edge by pushing and folding the collar bottom cutting piece through the cooperation of the collar support tangent line positioning plate and the push-folding assembly, thereby eliminating multiple manual operations such as folding, pressing, and placing at a predetermined position, and also eliminating the operation errors that may be caused by manual labor, thereby improving the production efficiency of shirt collars and the consistency of batch products; The two end corners of the top and bottom close to the collar seat are pushed and folded by the pushing and folding assembly and turned over to the top of the middle section of the collar bottom piece. The fabric surfaces on both sides of the tangent folded edge are in a relatively tight state after being pushed and folded. The two opposite pocket sides of the collar support opening pocket body are obtained through the first pressing seam needle groove. The tangent folded edge and the pocket body opening have no obvious wrinkles or twisting defects, and the collar end piece is further flattened. The opening and the collar end piece fit closely, and the seams of the collar bottom piece and the collar end piece are flat enough to avoid ironing, which is beneficial to improving the shape retention performance of the shirt collar bottom piece after multiple insertions of the neck collar support. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0017] Figure 1 It is a front view of the bottom plate of the embodiment; Figure 2 It is a front view of a shirt collar sewing template with a collar support cut line according to an embodiment; Figure 3 for Figure 2 Another use state diagram of the shirt collar sewing template with collar support tangent line; Figure 4 is a front view of a base plate of another embodiment; Figure 5 It is a front view of a shirt collar sewing template with a collar support cut line according to another embodiment; Figure 6 for Figure 5 Another use state diagram of the shirt collar sewing template with collar support tangent line; Figure 7 This is a schematic diagram of the shirt collar sewing process; Figure 8 This is the main view of the collar bottom of the finished shirt collar; In the figure: 1, bottom plate; 101, first press seam needle groove; 2, collar support tangent positioning plate; 201, tangent positioning side; 3, push folding assembly; 301, flat push limit groove; 302, push plate; 3021, push folding edge; 4, top plate; 401, second press seam needle groove; 402, elastic pressure strip; 5, third press seam needle groove; 6, fourth press seam needle groove; 7, fifth press seam needle groove; 8. Cover plate assembly; 801. Sixth press seam needle groove; 8011. Collar width through groove; 8012. Collar length through groove; 802. Core plate; 803. Top cover plate; 804. Elastic draft piece; 8041. First draft block; 8042. Draft strip; 8043. Second draft block; 805. Draft through hole; 806. Anti-slip piece; a, collar bottom piece; a1, tangent folding edge; a2,; b, collar end piece; c, collar surface piece; d, collar support. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0018] The specific implementation of the present invention is further described below in conjunction with the examples. The following examples are only used to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention, and cannot be used to limit the protection scope of the present invention.

[0019] In the following description, many specific details are set forth to facilitate a full understanding of the present invention, but the present invention may also be implemented in other ways different from those described herein, and those skilled in the art may make similar generalizations without violating the connotation of the present invention. Therefore, the present invention is not limited to the specific embodiments disclosed below.

[0020] Secondly, the term "one embodiment" or "embodiment" as used herein refers to a specific feature, structure, or characteristic that may be included in at least one implementation of the present invention. The term "in one embodiment" that appears in different places in this specification does not necessarily refer to the same embodiment, nor does it refer to a separate or selective embodiment that is mutually exclusive with other embodiments.

[0021] like Figure 1-6 As shown, the shirt collar sewing template with collar support tangent line of the embodiment comprises a bottom plate 1, a collar support tangent line positioning plate 2, a push-folding assembly 3 and a top plate 4; the bottom plate 1 has a collar bottom piece a bearing surface and two first press-sewing needle grooves 101 for pressing the collar bottom piece a and the collar end piece b to form two opposite pocket sides of the collar support opening pocket body; the collar support tangent line positioning plate 2 has a collar bottom piece pressing surface and a tangent line positioning side 201, and the collar support tangent line positioning plate 2 can be removed and overlapped on the bottom plate 1; the push-folding assembly 3 is arranged corresponding to the collar support tangent positioning plate 2, and the push-folding component 3 is configured to remove the push-folded collar bottom piece a along the tangent positioning side edge 201 to form a tangent folding edge a1 including the opening of the pocket body; the top plate 4 has a collar end piece pressing surface and a second pressing seam needle groove 401 that penetrates the first pressing seam needle groove 101; the collar end piece pressing surface is fixedly provided with an elastic pressure strip 402, which is located on both sides of the second pressing seam needle groove 401 and is staggered with the push-folding component 3.

[0022] Figure 1-6 The middle dotted lines indicate the predetermined placement positions of the collar bottom piece, the collar end piece and the collar surface piece.

[0023] The collar support tangent positioning plate 2 has a predetermined thickness, but its thickness is relatively small, so the orthographic projection of the tangent positioning plate thickness side surface along the plate thickness direction is defined as the tangent positioning side edge 201 .

[0024] Shirt collar sewing process Figure 7 As shown, the collar bottom piece a, the collar end piece b and the collar surface piece c are Figure 1The inner surface of the collar pocket is turned outward, and the Figure 2 The collar base of the shirt shown in the figure, the collar support d is inserted through the opening of the collar base pocket body, and the collar support d is in the state of being inserted as shown in FIG. Figure 2 The collar angle on the left side of the collar bottom is shown, and the collar support d is inserted as shown in Figure 8 The collar corner on the right side of the collar bottom is shown.

[0025] When the template is used in conjunction with the template machine, the sewing needle of the template machine passes through the needle groove and presses the cut piece, the needle groove extends in the corresponding template plane, and the needle groove is consistent with the preset stitch of the template machine. The stitches of the collar support pocket side determined by the first press stitching needle groove 101 are straight, and the distance between the two pocket sides is fixed, which is completely consistent with the size of the collar support; due to the fabric and hand gestures, the distance between the two pocket sides of the manually sewn pocket side will be inconsistent with the actual size of the collar support, which can easily lead to problems such as the collar support being too loose when inserted, or the collar support not being inserted.

[0026] In actual production, one of the warp and weft lines of the collar surface and the collar bottom is oriented in the same direction as the collar length, and the other is oriented in the same direction as the collar width. Therefore, the tangent fold a1 (including the pocket opening) formed by the push-folding component 3 on the collar bottom piece a is oriented at an acute angle to the warp and weft lines of the piece, that is, the tangent fold a1 is oblique. The elasticity of the fabric at the tangent fold a1 is relatively large, and the elasticity difference of the elastic fabric is more obvious. Manual operation to set the tangent fold a1 is likely to result in poor straightness of the tangent fold a1. During the push-folding process, the adjacent fabrics on both sides of the tangent fold a1 are tensioned, the tangent is straight, the tangent fold a1 is flat, the eating force is even, and there is no wave.

[0027] The push-folding assembly has a predetermined height. One of the functions of the elastic strip is to compensate for the height of the push-folding assembly so that the top plate 4 maintains its planar state after being pressed on the push-folding assembly, thereby fixing the position of the seam needle groove; in addition, as mentioned in the previous paragraph, the tangent fold a1 is oblique, and the extension direction of the stitch obtained by the sewing needle along the second seam needle groove 401 is also oblique. The second function of the elastic strip is to further fix the collar bottom piece and the collar end piece, so that the two opposite pocket sides of the collar support opening pocket body are straighter, the stitch tension is uniform, and the distance between the two pocket sides is fixed.

[0028] In some preferred embodiments, the push-folding assembly 3 includes a horizontal push-limiting groove 301 and a push plate 302 movably disposed in the horizontal push-limiting groove 301 , and the push plate 302 has a push-folding edge 3021 ; The push plate 302 has a switchable push-folding station and an avoidance station; the push plate 302 of the push-folding station is blocked in the first press-seam needle groove 101 along the plate thickness direction, and the push plate 302 of the avoidance station avoids the side of the plate surface of the first press-seam needle groove 101.

[0029] Figure 2 The middle top plate is in the hinged unfolded state, the left push plate is in the avoidance position, and the right push plate is in the push-folding position; Figure 3The middle top plate is in a hinged unfolded state, the left collar support tangent positioning plate is in a push-folded state in cooperation with the push-folding assembly, and the right collar support tangent positioning plate is in a removed state. Figure 5 , 6 The middle top plate is in a hinged overlapping state.

[0030] It can be understood that the template is placed on a horizontal operating table for use, and the push plate 302 moves in a horizontal direction in the horizontal push limit groove 301; during the use of the template, the top surface of the collar support tangent positioning plate 2 is slightly lower than the bottom surface of the push plate 302, and the end corner folded portion of the collar bottom piece a is clamped between the collar support tangent positioning plate 2 and the push plate 302, and its clamping structure is, from bottom to top, the collar support tangent positioning plate 2, the end corner folded portion a2 and the push plate 302.

[0031] In some preferred embodiments, the bottom plate 1 and the top plate 4 are both provided with a third seam needle groove 5 and a fourth seam needle groove 6. The third seam needle groove 5 is connected to one of the first seam needle grooves 101 at a first angle α, and the fourth seam needle groove 6 is connected to the other of the first seam needle grooves 101 at a second angle β. The first angle α and the second angle β are provided with a collar support insertion gap, and the third seam needle groove 5 and the fourth seam needle groove 6 are configured as a seam tangent fold a1 and a collar end piece b.

[0032] The tangent fold a1 formed by pushing and folding the collar bottom is pressed and sewn through the third and fourth press-sewing needle grooves 5 and 6, fixing the tension state of the tangent fold a1 and effectively connecting it with the collar end piece b, especially at the ends of the third and fourth press-sewing needle grooves 5 and 6 away from the first press-sewing needle grooves 101, the stitches are straight, effectively overcoming the problem of misalignment of the stitch ends caused by the oblique direction of the tangent fold a1 and manual gestures during manual sewing. In the finished shirt collar, the tangent fold a1 intersects with the collar support, which is conducive to improving the shape retention performance of the shirt collar bottom piece a after multiple insertions of the collar support.

[0033] In some preferred embodiments, the collar support tangent positioning plate 2, the push-folding assembly 3 and the top plate 4 are arranged in groups corresponding to each other, and two groups of collar support tangent positioning plates 2, the push-folding assembly 3 and the top plate 4 are arranged at intervals on the top surface of the bottom plate 1; The bottom plate 1 and the top plate 4 are provided with a fifth press seam needle groove 7, which is located between the first press seam needle grooves 101 of the two groups of top plates 4. The fifth press seam needle groove 7 is used to press seam and connect the collar bottom piece a and the collar end piece b, so as to prevent the collar end piece b from being far away from the tangent folded edge a1 and the end corners of the two opposite pocket sides of the collar support opening pocket body from being folded during the use of the template, thereby reducing the time for the template operator to lay out and sort.

[0034] The two end collar pieces a located on the collar piece a have different pushing and folding directions, so the pushing and folding components 3 are respectively arranged to obliquely tension the fabric surface to overcome the predetermined fabric expansion and contraction to form a tangent folded edge a1, and the collar support tangent positioning plates 2 corresponding to the pushing and folding components 3 are pulled out along the tangent positioning side edge 201 or the length extension direction of the tangent folded edge a1, which is beneficial to fix the shape of the tangent folded edge a1 and the tension degree of the fabric surface.

[0035] In some preferred embodiments, it also includes a cover plate assembly 8 that is removably overlapped with the base plate 1, and both the base plate 1 and the cover plate assembly 8 are provided with a sixth seam stitching groove 801, and the sixth seam stitching groove 801 is configured to seam the bottom edge of the pocket body of the collar bottom piece a, the collar end piece b and the collar surface piece c, as well as the collar pocket that is open at the sewing edge of the collar seat.

[0036] The sewing pieces of the collar bottom piece a and the collar end piece b are further placed between the bottom plate 1 and the cover plate assembly 8, and the sewing needle of the template machine moves along the sixth pressing seam needle groove 801 to form a pressing seam trace, and the pressing seam trace includes the bottom edge of the pocket body. The excess piece edge of the outer edge of the collar pocket is cut off, and then the inner surface of the collar pocket is turned to the outer surface, and the pressing seam trace of the collar pocket is pressed tightly, and pressed and ironed to obtain the shirt collar to be sewn with the collar seat.

[0037] like Figure 4-6 As shown, in some preferred embodiments, the cover plate assembly 8 includes a removably stacked core plate 802 and a top cover plate 803, and the core plate 802 and the bottom plate 1 are configured to clamp and position the sewing pieces of the collar bottom panel a and the collar end panel b; The core plate 802 has a collar piece bearing surface away from the bottom plate 1, and the collar piece bearing surface is provided with an elastic draft member 804. The top cover plate 803 is provided with a draft through hole 805 along the plate thickness direction, and the elastic draft member 804 and the draft through hole 805 are matched in a concave-convex manner. The collar panel bearing surface is also provided with an anti-slip member 806 .

[0038] Figure 5 The middle cover plate assembly is in a stacked state. Figure 6 The core plate of the middle cover plate assembly is stacked with the bottom plate, and the top cover plate is in a hinged unfolded state.

[0039] Furthermore, the elastic draft member 804 is made of foam.

[0040] When the collar bottom piece a and the collar end piece b are sewn together and overlapped with the collar surface piece c, the concave-convex fit between the elastic draft piece 804 and the draft through hole 805 is utilized to make the collar surface piece c lifted up by the foam and fixedly pushed into the draft through hole 805. The part of the collar surface piece c flatly clamped by the core plate 802 and the top cover plate 803 is the main body, and the part pushed into the draft through hole 805 is convex relative to the main body, which is conducive to obtaining different drafts at different places on the top surface, ensuring that the collar corner of the shirt collar is always bent and fits toward the wearer's neck, avoiding the collar corner from curling up.

[0041] The function of the anti-slip part 806 is to fix the compression seam position of the collar surface piece c obtained by the concave-convex cooperation of the elastic draft part 804 and the draft through hole 805. Specifically, the anti-slip part 806 is a sandpaper layer fixed to the bearing surface of the collar surface piece; the elastic draft parts 804 are symmetrically distributed in groups at both ends of the compression area of ​​the bearing surface of the collar surface piece, and the anti-slip part 806 is arranged along the sixth compression seam needle groove 801 and on one side or both sides of the sixth compression seam needle groove 801. Optionally, the anti-slip part 806 is arranged between the sixth compression seam needle groove 801 and the elastic draft part 804; further, the anti-slip part 806 is also arranged between two groups of elastic draft parts 804 to fix the position of the middle section of the collar length.

[0042] In some preferred embodiments, the elastic draft member 804 includes a first draft block 8041 and a draft strip 8042, the sixth compression stitch groove 801 of the core plate 802 includes a collar width through groove 8011 and a collar length through groove 8012 connected at a third angle γ, the first draft block 8041 is arranged within the third angle γ, the draft strip 8042 is arranged at intervals on the side of the first draft block 8041 away from the collar width through groove 8011, and the size of the first draft block 8041 along the extension direction of the collar length through groove 8012 is larger than the size of the draft strip 8042.

[0043] The sewing needle of the template machine moves along the extension direction of the collar long through groove 8012.

[0044] Further, as shown in the figure, three draft strips 8042 are arranged at intervals on the side of the first draft block 8041 away from the collar width slot 8011. The first draft block 8041 has a side that is consistent with the extending direction of the collar width slot 8011 and the collar length slot 8012.

[0045] In some preferred embodiments, the long side direction of the draft strip 8042 is consistent with the extension direction of the collar width through slot 8011 .

[0046] In some preferred embodiments, the elastic draft member 804 also includes a second draft block 8043. Along the extension direction of the collar width slot 8011, the second elastic draft member 804 also includes a second draft block 8043. Along the extension direction of the collar width slot 8011, the second draft block 8043 is spaced apart on the side of the first draft block 8041 away from the third angle γ; one end of the first draft block 8041 close to the second draft block 8043 has a missing corner, and the missing corner is located on the side of the first draft block 8041 away from the collar width slot 8011.

[0047] The preferred first draft block 8041 and the second draft block 8043 ensure that the shirt collar has the maximum draft at the wide side of the collar. The notched corner setting makes the draft gradually decrease from the wide side of the collar to the inside along the length of the collar, so that the length of the collar at the collar corner is adapted to the curvature of the wearer's neck.

[0048] Furthermore, along the extension direction of the collar width through groove 8011, the size of the first water block 8041 is larger than that of the second water block 8043, and the water draft of the collar corner at the collar width edge is slightly larger than the part connected to the collar seat. Compared with the collar corner, the part connected to the collar seat tends to be flatter, which is beneficial to improving the three-dimensional sense and shape retention and durability at both ends of the shirt collar length.

[0049] The shirt collar sewing method is based on the shirt collar sewing template with collar support tangent lines of the above embodiment, and comprises the following steps: S1: Press the collar bottom piece a onto the bottom plate 1, press the collar support tangent positioning plate 2 onto the collar bottom piece a, and push and fold the two end corners of the collar bottom piece a along the side of the collar support tangent positioning plate 2 to form a tangent fold a1 including the pocket opening; S2: pressing the collar end piece b on the tangent folded edge a1, and then pressing the top plate 4 on the collar end piece b; S3: removing the collar support tangent positioning plate 2 and the push-folding assembly 3, so that the first press seam needle groove 101 and the second press seam needle groove 401 are connected along the plate thickness direction; S4: Pressing seams to form two opposite sides of the collar support opening pocket body.

[0050] Furthermore, the shirt collar sewing method also includes: S5: Pressing the tangent folded edge a1 and the collar end piece b to obtain a stitched piece of the collar end piece b and the collar bottom piece a; S6: The sewing piece and the collar surface piece c are pressed and sewn, and the pressed seam traces intersect with the two opposite sides of the pocket body to form the pocket bottom edge, and the sewing piece and the top surface piece are pressed and sewn to obtain a collar pocket with an opening at the sewing edge of the collar seat.

[0051] Furthermore, when the stitching piece and the collar surface piece c are pressed together, the difference in draft at various locations of the collar surface piece c is controlled based on the mold.

[0052] The above is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention. It should be pointed out that for ordinary technicians in this technical field, several improvements and modifications can be made without departing from the technical principles of the present invention. These improvements and modifications should also be regarded as the scope of protection of the present invention.

Claims

1. A shirt collar sewing template with a collar support tangent line, characterized in that: include: The bottom plate has a collar bottom piece bearing surface and two first pressing seam needle grooves for pressing the collar bottom piece and the collar end piece to form two opposite pocket sides of the collar support opening pocket body; A collar support tangent line positioning plate, having a collar bottom panel pressing surface and a tangent line positioning side edge, which can be removed and overlapped on the bottom plate; A push-folding assembly is disposed corresponding to the collar support tangent positioning plate and is configured to remove and push-fold the collar bottom piece along the tangent positioning side edge to form a tangent folding edge including the opening of the pocket body; The top plate has a collar end panel pressing surface and a second seam pressing needle groove that penetrates the first seam pressing needle groove; The collar end panel pressing surface is fixedly provided with an elastic pressure strip, and the elastic pressure strip is located at both sides of the second pressure seam needle groove and is staggered with the push-folding assembly.

2. The shirt collar sewing template with collar support tangent line according to claim 1, characterized in that: The bottom plate and the top plate are both provided with a third sewing needle groove and a fourth sewing needle groove, the third sewing needle groove is connected to one of the first sewing needle grooves at a first angle, the fourth sewing needle groove is connected to the other of the first sewing needle grooves at a second angle, the first angle and the second angle are provided with a collar support insertion interval, and the third sewing needle groove and the fourth sewing needle groove are configured to sew the tangent folded edge and the collar end piece.

3. The shirt collar sewing template with collar support tangent line according to claim 1, characterized in that: The collar support tangent positioning plates, push-folding components and top plates are arranged in groups corresponding to each other, and two groups of the collar support tangent positioning plates, push-folding components and top plates are arranged at intervals on the top surface of the bottom plate; The bottom plate and the top plate are provided with a fifth seam pressing needle groove, and the fifth seam pressing needle groove is located between two groups of first seam pressing needle grooves of the top plate.

4. The shirt collar sewing template with collar support tangent lines according to claim 1, characterized in that: The push-folding assembly comprises a horizontal push limiting groove and a push plate movably arranged in the horizontal push limiting groove, and the push plate has a push-folding edge; The push plate has a switchable push-folding station and an avoidance station; The push plate of the folding station along the plate thickness direction is blocked at the first pressing seam needle groove, and the push plate of the avoiding station avoids the side of the plate surface of the first pressing seam needle groove.

5. The shirt collar sewing template with collar support tangent lines according to claim 1, characterized in that: It also includes a cover plate assembly that is removably overlapped with the base plate, and the base plate and the cover plate assembly are both provided with a sixth seam stitching groove, and the sixth seam stitching groove is configured to seam the collar bottom piece, the collar end piece and the collar surface piece to obtain the pocket bottom edge of the pocket body and the collar pocket that is open at the sewing edge of the collar seat.

6. The shirt collar sewing template with collar support tangent lines according to claim 1, characterized in that: The cover panel assembly includes a core panel and a top cover panel that are removably stacked, wherein the core panel and the bottom panel are configured to clamp and position the seams of the collar bottom panel and the collar end panel; The core plate has a collar piece bearing surface away from the bottom plate, the collar piece bearing surface is provided with an elastic draft piece, the top cover plate is provided with a draft through hole along the plate thickness direction, and the elastic draft piece is matched with the draft through hole in a concave-convex manner; The collar panel bearing surface is also provided with an anti-slip part.

7. The shirt collar sewing template with collar support tangent lines according to claim 6, characterized in that: The elastic draft part includes a first draft block and a draft strip, the sixth compression stitch groove of the core plate includes a collar width through groove and a collar length through groove connected at a third angle, the first draft block is arranged within the third angle, the draft strip is arranged at intervals on the side of the first draft block away from the collar width through groove, and the size of the first draft block along the extension direction of the collar length through groove is larger than the draft strip.

8. The shirt collar sewing template with collar support tangent lines according to claim 7, characterized in that: The long side direction of the draft strip is consistent with the extension direction of the collar width through groove.

9. The shirt collar sewing template with collar support cutting lines according to claim 7, characterized in that: The elastic draft member further comprises a second draft block, which is arranged at intervals on the side of the first draft block away from the third angle along the extending direction of the collar width through slot; One end of the first draft block close to the second draft block has a missing corner, and the missing corner is located on a side of the first draft block away from the collar width through groove.

10. A method for sewing a shirt collar, characterized in that: The shirt collar sewing template with collar support tangent lines according to any one of claims 1 to 9 comprises the following steps: S1: Press the collar bottom piece onto the bottom plate, press the collar support tangent positioning plate onto the collar bottom piece, and fold the two end corners of the collar bottom piece along the tangent positioning side edge to form a tangent folded edge including the pocket opening; S2: pressing the collar end piece on the tangent folded edge, and then pressing the top plate on the collar end piece; S3: removing the collar support tangent positioning plate and the push-folding assembly to allow the first seam pressing needle groove and the second seam pressing needle groove to penetrate along the plate thickness direction; S4: Pressing the seams to form two opposite pocket sides of the collar support opening pocket body.

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