Cosmetic composition for semi-permanent deformation of keratin fibres

Abstract

The presently claimed invention relates to cosmetic compositions for the semi-permanent deformation of keratin fibres, methods and uses thereof. The presently claimed invention provides excellent semi-permanent moldability from eliminating hair curls to straightening bends and waves without compromising hair gloss, hair manageability and hair conditioning; unpleasant stabbing pain and itching feelings are not given to people; and the hair is not damaged. When flat perming the hair, the presently claimed invention also generates a minimal amount of smoke.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The presently claimed invention relates to a cosmetic composition for semi-permanent deformation of hair, methods and uses thereof. The cosmetic composition comprises: at least one alpha-keto acid, optionally in the form of its salt or its hydrate; at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; diutan gum; at least one fatty alcohol; and at least one nonionic surfactant. Background Art

[0002] In an alternative to conventional methods for permanent deformation of hair shaping, methods for semi-permanent deformation of hair comprising α-keto acids are known. See, for example, PCT application WO 2014 / 072491A1 published on May 15, 2014, European applications EP 3973944 A1 and EP 3973945 A1 published on March 30, 2022.

[0003] Typically, in order to obtain satisfactory benefits in terms of straightening and anti-frizzing, complex formulations and chemical processes are used. Even if satisfactory straightening and anti-frizzing can be achieved using known compositions, these compositions may also compromise hair shine and manageability. These compositions may also give a stinging and itching sensation after flat-iron treatment. These compositions may also leave unwanted residues on the hair. These compositions may also have significant damaging characteristics. In order to compensate for these shortcomings and thereby achieve consumer acceptance, additional compounds are typically incorporated into the compositions, which further complicates them. Various aspects including the incorporation of significant amounts of alpha-keto acids, the acidic pH of the composition, the incorporation of additional compounds, etc. are associated with additional shortcomings because they compromise the sustainability of the composition, and they also affect the experience of the hairdresser and / or consumer during flat-iron treatment (due to the generation of significant amounts of smoke).

[0004] Therefore, there is a need to provide a cosmetic composition suitable for semi-permanent deformation of keratin fibers, in particular human hair. There is also a need to provide a composition that can be used in the so-called "Brazilian hair straightening method". There is also a need to provide a composition that has a wide range of activities from eliminating hair curl to straightening bends and waves. There is also a need to provide a composition that is suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair while providing excellent gloss to the hair. There is also a need to provide a composition that is suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair while providing excellent manageability to the hair. There is also a need to provide a composition that is suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair while providing excellent conditioning to the hair. There is also a need to provide a composition that is suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair while giving reduced stinging and itching sensations or even preventing any stinging and itching sensations. There is also a need to provide a composition that is suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair while having very low damage characteristics or even no damage characteristics. There is also a need to provide a composition that is suitable for semi-permanent deformation of hair while having satisfactory sustainability, especially by being an eco-ethical formulation.

[0005] Therefore, there is a need to provide a composition suitable for semi-permanent texturing of hair which imparts to the hair the benefits of hair compositions typically used for semi-permanent texturing (such as benefits of hair shine, hair manageability, hair conditioning and damage characteristics) while generating a minimum amount of smoke during application of the hair composition.

[0006] It is therefore an object of the presently claimed invention to provide a composition suitable for semi-permanent texturing of hair which imparts to the hair the benefits of hair compositions typically used for semi-permanent texturing (such as benefits of hair shine, hair manageability, hair conditioning and damage characteristics) while generating a minimum amount of fumes during application of the hair composition. Summary of the invention

[0007] Surprisingly, it was found that the combination of compounds including a quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and diutan gum in a gel network system obtained from a mixture of a fatty alcohol and a nonionic surfactant, in particular the combination of lauryl methylgluceth-10 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride and diutan gum, allows maintaining the straightening properties provided by alpha-keto acids without compromising the expected benefits, in particular in terms of hair shine, hair manageability, hair conditioning and damage characteristics, and results in less smoke generation when used in flat iron treatments. Without wishing to be bound by any theory, the inventors believe that the satisfactory performance of the composition may be due to the physical and / or chemical interaction of the two compounds. On the one hand, when applied to the hair, the two compounds may form hydrogen bonds between each other (physical interaction). On the other hand, when further heat is applied (in particular using a heating device), the two compounds may further form covalent bonds between each other (chemical interaction).

[0008] Thus, in a first aspect, the presently claimed invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the semi-permanent deformation of keratin fibers, preferably human hair, said cosmetic composition comprising:

[0009] (a) at least one α-keto acid, optionally in the form of a salt thereof or a hydrate thereof;

[0010] (b) at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of from 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;

[0011] (c) Diutacol;

[0012] (d) at least one fatty alcohol; and

[0013] (e) at least one nonionic surfactant different from component (d).

[0014] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one α-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylate, pyruvate and 2-ketobutyrate; preferably, the α-keto acid is glyoxylate.

[0015] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide is lauryl methyl glucose ethoxylate-10 hydroxypropyl dimonium chloride.

[0016] In a preferred embodiment, at least one fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of linear or branched C14 to C30 fatty alcohols; more preferably, selected from the group consisting of linear C 14 To C 30even more preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

[0017] In a preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8 to C 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; preferably selected from polyoxyethylene C8 to C having at least 2 ethylene oxide units or at least 5 ethylene oxide units 30 More preferably selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8 to C having 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units 30 More preferably selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8 to C having 15 to 30 ethylene oxide units 30 alkyl ethers; even more preferably selected from the group consisting of ceteareth-25 and steareth-20.

[0018] In a preferred embodiment, at least one α-keto acid is present in an amount ranging from ≥3.0 to ≤25.0 wt. %, preferably ranging from ≥5.0 wt. % to ≤22.0 wt. %, more preferably ranging from ≥10.0 to ≤19.0 wt. % relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl glucose ether is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.1 to ≤10.0 wt. %, more preferably ranging from ≥0.1 to ≤5 wt. %, even more preferably ranging from ≥0.5 to ≤3 wt. % relative to the total weight of the composition; diutan gum is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.01 to ≤1.0 wt. % relative to the total weight of the composition. % ≤ 5.0 wt %, more preferably in a range of ≥0.5 to ≤0.5 wt %, more preferably in a range of ≥0.01 to ≤0.3 wt %; at least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount in a range of ≥2.5 to ≤20.0 wt %, preferably in a range of ≥3 to ≤15 wt %, more preferably in a range of ≥4 to ≤10 wt % relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or at least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount in a range of ≥0.2 to ≤5.0 wt %, more preferably in a range of ≥0.5 to ≤4 wt %, even more preferably in a range of ≥1.0 to ≤2.5 wt %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] In a preferred embodiment, the pH of the composition is below 4.0, preferably in the range of ≥1 to ≤3.5, more preferably in the range of ≥1.5 to ≤3.0.

[0020] In a preferred embodiment, the viscosity of the composition determined according to the method of the present description is in the range of ≥100 to ≤2,000 mPa.s, preferably in the range of ≥200 to ≤1,500 mPa.s, more preferably in the range of ≥500 to ≤1,000 mPa.s.

[0021] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises component (d) and component (e) in a weight ratio in the range of ≥10.0:0.5 to ≤10:4.0, more preferably in the range of ≥10.0:1.0 to ≤10.0:3.5, even more preferably in the range of ≥10.0:1.5 to ≤10.0:3.0.

[0022] In a preferred embodiment, component (d) and component (e) are partially or completely contained in the composition in the form of a gel network system.

[0023] In a preferred embodiment, the composition is a leave-on composition or a rinse-off composition; preferably a rinse-off composition.

[0024] In a second aspect, the presently claimed invention relates to a method for semi-permanent deformation of hair, said method comprising at least the following steps:

[0025] (A) providing a cosmetic composition as defined above;

[0026] (B) applying the cosmetic composition to the hair; and

[0027] (C) Heat is applied to the hair using a heating device.

[0028] In a preferred embodiment, in step (C), the hair is heated to a temperature in the range of ≥150 to ≤250°C, preferably in the range of ≥170 to ≤230°C, more preferably in the range of ≥185 to ≤220°C.

[0029] In a preferred embodiment, in step (C), the heating device is a heating iron; preferably, the heating iron is selected from the group consisting of a straightening flat iron or a crimping iron.

[0030] In a third aspect, the presently claimed invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition as defined above for the semi-permanent deformation of the hair. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0031] Figure 1a and 1bShown are photographs taken using a scanning electron microscope (SEM) of a sample of untreated hair (control) at magnifications of 2.500× and 10.000×, respectively.

[0032] Figure 2a and 2b Represents photographs using SEM of samples treated with the composition of the presently claimed invention at magnifications of 2.500× and 10.000×, respectively. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0033] Before describing the compositions of the presently claimed invention and the formulations of the presently claimed invention, it should be understood that the invention is not limited to the specific compositions and formulations described, as such compositions and formulations may, of course, vary. It should also be understood that the terminology used herein is not intended to be limiting, as the scope of the presently claimed invention will be limited only by the appended claims.

[0034] If a group is defined as including at least a certain number of embodiments hereinafter, this means that a group preferably consisting only of these embodiments is also encompassed. In addition, the terms "first", "second", "third" or "a", "b", "c" etc. in the specification and claims are used to distinguish similar elements, and are not necessarily used to describe order or chronological order. It should be understood that the terms used in this way are interchangeable where appropriate, and the embodiments of the invention of the current claim protection described herein can be operated in a sequence different from that described or shown herein. In the case of the steps of the term "first", "second", "third" or "(A)", "(B)" and "(C)" or "(a)", "(b)", "(c)", "(d)", "i", "ii" etc. relating to methods or purposes or determinations, there is no time or time interval coherence between the steps, in other words, the steps can be performed simultaneously, or there can be a time interval of seconds, minutes, hours, days, weeks, months or even years between these steps, unless otherwise specified in the application, as described above or below.

[0035] Furthermore, ranges defined throughout the specification also include the endpoints, ie, a range of 1 to 10 means that both 1 and 10 are included in the range. For the avoidance of doubt, the applicant shall be entitled to any equivalents under applicable law.

[0036] In the following paragraphs, different aspects of the presently claimed invention are defined in more detail. Each aspect so defined can be combined with any other aspect or aspects, unless explicitly indicated to the contrary. In particular, any feature indicated as being preferred or advantageous can be combined with any other feature or features indicated as being preferred or advantageous.

[0037] References throughout this specification to "one embodiment" or "an embodiment" mean that a particular feature, structure, or characteristic described in conjunction with the embodiment is included in at least one embodiment of the invention currently claimed. Therefore, the phrases "in one embodiment" or "in an embodiment" appearing in various places throughout this specification do not necessarily refer to the same embodiment, but may refer to the same embodiment. In addition, as used hereinafter, the terms "preferably", "more preferably", "even more preferably", "most preferably", and "particularly" or similar terms are used in conjunction with optional features without limiting the possibilities for substitution. Therefore, the features introduced by these terms are optional features and are not intended to limit the scope of the claims in any way.

[0038] In addition, in one or more embodiments, specific features, structures or characteristics can be combined in any suitable manner, as will be apparent to those skilled in the art based on this disclosure. In addition, although some embodiments described herein include some features included in other embodiments and do not include other features included in other embodiments, the combination of features of different embodiments is intended to be within the scope of the invention currently claimed and form different embodiments, as will be understood by those skilled in the art. For example, in the attached claims, any of the embodiments claimed can be used in any combination.

[0039] In addition, it should be noted that the terms "at least one", "one or more" or similar expressions indicating that a feature or element can be present once or more than once will typically be used only once when introducing the corresponding feature or element. In the following, in most cases, when referring to the corresponding feature or element, the expression "at least one" or "one or more" will not be repeated, despite the fact that the corresponding feature or element can be present once or more than once.

[0040] As used herein, the term "hair" may be "living," i.e., on a living body, or may be "non-living," i.e., in a wig, hairpiece, or other aggregate of non-living keratin fibers. Mammalian (preferably human) hair is preferred. However, wool, fur, and other keratin fibers (fibers containing keratin) are suitable substrates for the compositions of the presently claimed invention.

[0041] By "cosmetic composition for semi-permanent deformation of keratin fibers" is meant a hair composition which is suitable for modifying the wave and curl of the hair, albeit not permanently. Such a composition is hereinafter referred to as "composition" or "composition of the presently claimed invention", unless otherwise indicated. The composition of the presently claimed invention can be used to straighten, relax and / or smooth keratin fibers, preferably human hair. In contrast, the composition of the presently claimed invention is not suitable for use as a permanent shaping composition, i.e. a cosmetic composition for permanent deformation (i.e. waving) of keratin fibers, preferably human hair.

[0042] “Substantially free” means that the composition comprises less than 0.1 wt %, preferably less than 0.01 wt %, more preferably 0 wt % of the compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] Unless otherwise indicated, all percentages are by weight of the composition of the presently claimed invention, ie by weight of the ready-to-use composition, which is the composition to be applied to the hair. Unless specifically stated otherwise, ratios are also by weight.

[0044] Cosmetic composition

[0045] In a first aspect, the presently claimed invention relates to a cosmetic composition for semi-permanent deformation of keratin fibers, preferably human hair, comprising: (a) at least one alpha-keto acid, optionally in the form of its salt or a hydrate thereof; (b) at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing on average from 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; (c) diutan gum; (d) at least one fatty alcohol; and (e) at least one nonionic surfactant.

[0046] α-Keto Acids

[0047] The composition comprises at least one alpha-keto acid, optionally in the form of a salt thereof or a hydrate thereof (component (a)).

[0048] In a preferred embodiment, at least one α-keto acid has the following formula (I):

[0049] R-CO-COOH

[0050] (I)

[0051] wherein R represents hydrogen or a linear or branched unsubstituted C1-C6 alkyl group.

[0052] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one α-keto acid is present in the composition in free form, in the form of a hydrate thereof, or in the form of a salt thereof; more preferably, in the form of a free form or in the form of a hydrate thereof.

[0053] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one salt of the α-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of salts of alkali metals and salts of alkaline earth metals; preferably, the at least one salt of the α-keto acid is a sodium salt.

[0054] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one α-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, pyruvic acid and 2-ketobutyric acid, optionally in the form of a hydrate or a salt thereof; preferably, the at least one α-keto acid is glyoxylic acid, optionally in the form of a hydrate thereof.

[0055] In a preferred embodiment, component (a) is present in an amount in the range of ≥3.0 to ≤25.0 wt. %, more preferably in the range of ≥5.0 wt. % to ≤22.0 wt. %, even more preferably in the range of ≥10.0 to ≤19.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] Quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl glucose ether

[0057] The composition comprises at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide (component (b)).

[0058] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide is lauryl methyl glucose ethoxylate-10 hydroxypropyl dimonium chloride.

[0059] Lauryl Methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride is commercially available from Lubrizol under the trade name Glucquat™ 125 Wetting Agent.

[0060] In a preferred embodiment, component (b) is present in an amount in the range of ≥0.1 to ≤10 wt. %, more preferably in the range of ≥0.1 to ≤5 wt. %, even more preferably in the range of ≥0.5 to ≤3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] Diuta

[0062] The composition comprises diutan gum (component (c)). Diutan gum is an anionic polysaccharide. It is a thickener and / or rheology modifier, which is added in an amount sufficient to provide a certain viscosity to the composition so that it can be easily applied to the hair without excessively dripping from the hair and causing a mess.

[0063] In a preferred embodiment, diutanol has a weight average molecular weight in the range of > 2.8 million Daltons to < 5.2 million Daltons.

[0064] Diutan gum is commercially available from CP Kelco France or Lubrizol under the trade name Kelco-Care™ Diutan gum. Diutan gum is a water-soluble polysaccharide that can be produced by microbial fermentation, particularly from Sphingomonas. Thus, diutan gum is a Sphingomonas fermentation extract. Diutan gum is composed of six sugar units of d-glucose, d-glucuronic acid, d-glucose (with 2 l-rhamnose in the side chain) and l-rhamnose, thereby forming a linear backbone with repeating side chains.

[0065] In a preferred embodiment, diutanol is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.01 to ≤1 wt. %, more preferably ranging from ≥0.01 to ≤0.5 wt. %, even more preferably ranging from ≥0.01 to ≤0.3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] Fatty alcohol

[0067] The composition comprises at least one fatty alcohol (component (d)). "Fatty alcohol" means a non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohol having 14 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0068] In a preferred embodiment, at least one fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of linear and / or branched C 14 To C 30 More preferably, selected from the group consisting of straight chain C 14 To C 30 even more preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol. In the most preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol is cetearyl alcohol.

[0069] In a preferred embodiment, component (d) is present in an amount in the range of ≥2.5 to ≤20 wt. %, preferably in the range of ≥3 to ≤15 wt. %, more preferably in the range of ≥4 to ≤10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of fatty alcohols described above may account for up to 100 wt. % (or 100 wt. %) of the total amount of at least one nonionic surfactant in the composition.

[0070] Nonionic surfactants

[0071] The composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactant (component (e)). "Nonionic surfactant" means any nonionic surfactant other than fatty alcohols.

[0072] In a preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of: nonionic surfactants containing one or more polyethylene oxide chains, including the following compounds: polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene castor oils, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oils, polyoxyethylene fatty amides and their monoethanolamine and diethanolamine derivatives and polyethoxylated fatty amines. More preferably, at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8 to C 30 even more preferably selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8 to C having at least 2 ethylene oxide units or at least 5 ethylene oxide units 30 even more preferably selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8 to C having 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; most preferably selected from polyoxyethylene C8 to C having 15 to 30 ethylene oxide units 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; in particular, selected from the group consisting of ceteareth-25 and steareth-20. Stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylene ether-20 is particularly preferred.

[0073] In a preferred embodiment, component (e) is present in an amount in the range of ≥0.2 to ≤5 wt %, more preferably in the range of ≥0.5 to ≤4 wt %, even more preferably in the range of ≥1.0 to ≤2.5 wt %, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the nonionic surfactant described above may account for up to 100 wt % (or 100 wt %) of the total amount of the nonionic surfactant in the composition.

[0074] Weight ratio fatty alcohol: nonionic surfactant

[0075] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises component (d) and component (e) in a weight ratio in the range of ≥10.0:0.5 to ≤10.0:4.0, more preferably in the range of ≥10.0:1.0 to ≤10.0:3.5, even more preferably in the range of ≥10.0:1.5 to ≤10.0:3.0.

[0076] Gel Network System

[0077] In a preferred embodiment, at least one fatty alcohol and a nonionic surfactant are partially or completely contained in the composition in the form of a gel network system.

[0078] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises component (d) and component (d) as described above in a total amount in the range of ≥2.7 to ≤25 wt. %, preferably in the range of ≥3.5 to ≤19 wt. %, more preferably in the range of ≤5.0 to ≥12.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] In a preferred embodiment, the formation of the gel network involves heating a dispersion of at least one fatty alcohol in water together with a surfactant to a temperature above 80°C. During the mixing process, the fatty alcohol melts, causing the surfactant to partition into the fatty alcohol droplets. The surfactant brings water with it into the at least one fatty alcohol. This transforms the isotropic fatty alcohol droplets into liquid crystal phase droplets. When the mixture is cooled below the chain melting temperature, the liquid crystal phase transforms into a solid crystalline gel network. The gel network can be particularly helpful in reducing or even eliminating the odor of compounds containing thiol functional groups.

[0080] In a preferred embodiment, ≥50 to ≤100 wt%, more preferably ≥70 to ≤100 wt%, even more preferably ≥90 to ≤100 wt%, most preferably 100 wt% of component (d) is contained in the gel network. In a preferred embodiment, ≥50 to ≤100 wt%, more preferably ≥70 to ≤100 wt%, even more preferably ≥90 to ≤100 wt%, most preferably 100 wt% of component (e) is contained in the gel network.

[0081] Cosmetically acceptable carrier

[0082] In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable carrier or solvent.

[0083] In a preferred embodiment, the solvent is an aqueous carrier; more preferably an aqueous carrier selected from the group consisting of water and water-soluble polyols; even more preferably an aqueous carrier selected from the group consisting of water and glycerol; most preferably, the aqueous carrier is water or alternatively a mixture of water and glycerol.

[0084] The water-soluble polyol may have two or more hydroxyl groups in the molecule. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of diols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol or 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol; further, trimethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, 2,3-butylene glycol, pentamethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene ... glycol), 2-butene-1,4-diol, hexanediol, octanediol; triols such as glycerol, trimethylolpropane, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, etc.; tetraols such as pentaerythritol; pentaols such as xylitol, etc.; hexaols such as sorbitol and mannitol; polyol polymers such as diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, diglycerol, polyethylene glycol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, polyglycerol; glycol alkyl ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, ethylene glycol monohexyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-2-methylhexyl ether, ethylene glycol isoamyl ether, ethylene glycol benzyl ether, ethylene glycol isopropyl ether, ethylene glycol dimethyl ether, ethylene glycol diethyl ether, ethylene glycol dibutyl ether; glycol alkyl ethers , such as diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol dimethyl ether, diethylene glycol diethyl ether, diethylene glycol butyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol monobutyl ether, propylene glycol isopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethyl ether, dipropylene glycol butyl ether; glycol ether esters such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol diadipic acid ester, ethylene glycol disuccinate, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monopropyl ether acetate and propylene glycol monophenyl ether acetate. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the water-soluble polyol is selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol and glycerol.

[0085] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable carrier is present in an amount of ≥55.0 wt. %, more preferably ≥60.0 wt. %, even more preferably ≥65.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable carrier is present in an amount in the range of ≥55.0 to ≤90.0 wt. %, more preferably in the range of ≥60.0 to ≤85.0 wt. %, even more preferably in the range of ≥65.0 to ≤80.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] The composition may comprise water as the sole cosmetically acceptable carrier. In this embodiment, the composition is substantially free of water-soluble polyols. In a preferred embodiment, water is present in an amount of ≥55.0 wt. %, more preferably ≥60.0 wt. %, even more preferably ≥65.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, water is present in an amount in the range of ≥55.0 to ≤90.0 wt. %, preferably in the range of ≥60.0 to ≤85.0 wt. %, more preferably in the range of ≤65.0 to ≤80.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] Alternatively, the composition may comprise water as the primary cosmetically acceptable carrier and at least one water-soluble polyol as a secondary cosmetically acceptable carrier. In a preferred embodiment, water is present in an amount of ≥50.0 wt. %, preferably ≥55.0 wt. %, more preferably ≥60.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the remainder of the cosmetically acceptable carrier consists of one water-soluble polyol. In a preferred embodiment, water is present in an amount in the range of ≥50.0 to ≤85.0 wt. %, preferably in the range of ≥55.0 to ≤80.0 wt. %, more preferably in the range of ≥60.0 to ≤75.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the remainder of the cosmetically acceptable carrier consists of one water-soluble polyol.

[0088] Additional surfactants

[0089] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one surfactant other than a nonionic surfactant (although in lower amounts, for example in an amount in the range of ≥0.1 to ≤5.0 wt %). Suitable surfactants typically have a lipophilic chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and may be selected from anionic, amphoteric and cationic surfactants.

[0090] However, in alternative preferred embodiments, the composition is substantially free of additional surfactants other than nonionic surfactants. The composition may be substantially free of anionic surfactants. The composition may be substantially free of amphoteric surfactants. The composition may be substantially free of cationic surfactants.

[0091] Additional thickeners and / or rheology modifiers (substantially free)

[0092] In a preferred embodiment, the composition is substantially free of additional thickeners and / or rheology modifiers other than diutan gum.

[0093] For example, the additional thickener and / or rheology modifier can be selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, tara gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, scleroglucan, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxybutyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, N-vinyl pyrrolidone, acrylates / cetoeth-20 itaconate copolymer, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, polyethoxylated carbamates or polycarbamoyl polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-150 / decyl / SMDI copolymer, PEG-150 / stearyl / SMDI copolymer, Trihydroxystearin, acrylate copolymers or hydrophobically modified acrylate copolymers (such as acrylates / stearyl eth-20 methacrylate copolymer), acrylates / stearyl eth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / vinyl neodecanoate crosspolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / C1ü-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit selected from polyether urethanes comprising at least one fatty chain; in particular xanthan gum.

[0094] Cationic polymer (substantially free)

[0095] In a preferred embodiment, the composition is substantially free of cationic polymers other than the quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl glucose ether.

[0096] Reducing agent (basically free)

[0097] In a preferred embodiment, the composition is substantially free of reducing agents, in particular reducing agents comprising a thiol functional group. Reducing agents are compounds suitable for reducing the disulfide bonds of the hair. Reducing agents are usually present in cosmetic compositions for permanent deformation of keratin fibers. For example, the reducing agent can be selected from the group consisting of cysteamine, cysteine, thioglycolic acid and salts thereof.

[0098] Alkalizing agent (basically free)

[0099] In a preferred embodiment, the composition is substantially free of alkalizing agents other than pH regulators. Alkalizing agents are usually present in cosmetic compositions for permanent deformation of keratin fibers. For example, the alkalizing agent can be selected from the group consisting of ammonia and monoethanolamine.

[0100] Colorant (basically free)

[0101] In a preferred embodiment, the composition is substantially free of colorants.The colorants may be selected from the group consisting of direct dyes, pigments and oxidation dye precursors (including bases and couplers).

[0102] Liquid oil

[0103] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one liquid oil.

[0104] For example, the liquid oil can be selected from the group consisting of avocado oil, tsubaki oil, turtle oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, parsic oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, Chinese tung oil, Japanese tung oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, triglycerol, tricaprylin, triisopalmitin, liquid lanolin, hexyl laurate, liquid hydrocarbon esters such as fluid paraffin, mineral oil, isododecane, fatty acid oils, squalene, ester oils such as cetyl octanoate and isopropyl myristate.

[0105] If present, at least one liquid oil is present in an amount ranging from ≥ 0.1 to ≤ 5.0 wt % relative to the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition may be substantially free of liquid oil. The absence of liquid oil may help avoid the generation of significant amounts of smoke when heating the hair (e.g., by using a flat iron).

[0106] Solid fats and waxes

[0107] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one solid fat and a wax.

[0108] For example, the solid fats and waxes may be selected from the group consisting of cocoa butter, coconut oil, horse fat, hardened coconut fat, palm oil, tallow, sheep fat, hardened tallow, palm kernel oil, lard, ox bone fat, wood wax kernel oil, hardened castor oil; lanolin, kapok wax, Waxes are not fatty alcohols.

[0109] If present, at least one solid fat and wax is present in an amount ranging from ≥ 0.1 to ≤ 5.0 wt % relative to the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition may be substantially free of solid fats and waxes. The absence of solid fats and waxes may help avoid the generation of significant amounts of smoke when heating the hair (e.g., by using a flat iron).

[0110] Silicones

[0111] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one silicone. The silicone may be volatile or non-volatile, and soluble or insoluble. "Soluble" means that the silicone is miscible with the aqueous carrier of the composition, thereby forming part of the same phase. "Insoluble" means that the silicone forms a separate, discontinuous phase from the aqueous carrier, such as in the form of an emulsion or suspension of droplets of silicone.

[0112] For example, the soluble silicone may be selected from the group consisting of silicone copolyols, such as dimethicone copolyols, for example polyether siloxane modified polymers, such as polypropylene oxide, polyethylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane, wherein the level of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide is sufficient to allow solubility in the composition. The viscosity of the insoluble silicone at 25° C. may be 1,000 to 2,000,000 mPa.s, preferably 10,000 to 1,800,000 mPa.s, more preferably 100,000 to 1,500,000 mPa.s. The viscosity may be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer, as described in Dow Corning Gorparate Test Method CTM0004 (July 20, 1970). In particular, the insoluble silicone may be selected from the group consisting of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polyethersiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes containing terminal hydroxyl groups, methylphenylpolysiloxanes containing terminal hydroxyl groups, and mixtures thereof, low molecular weight oligomeric polydimethylsiloxanes or cyclodimethicone, polyethersiloxane copolymers, particularly preferred silicone conditioning polymers are CTFA: dimethicone, amodimethicone, dimethicone bisaminohydroxypropyl copolyol, bisamino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, dihydroxy dimethicone (CTFA: dimethiconol). Also preferred are volatile silicones, such as, for example, CTFA: dimethicone, dimethicone copolyol, and cyclodimethicone.

[0113] If present, the at least one silicone is present in an amount ranging from ≥ 0.1 to ≤ 6.0 wt % relative to the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition may be substantially free of silicone.

[0114] Swelling agent

[0115] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one swelling agent. So-called swelling agents and penetrating substances can be added to the hair shaping composition, examples being urea, melamine, ethers such as dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, 2-pyrrolidone, imidazolin-2-one, 1-methyl-2-pyrrolidone; alkali metal thiocyanates or ammonium thiocyanate, polyols, isopropanol; preferably, the swelling agent and penetrating substance is urea.

[0116] If present, the swelling agent is present in an amount in the range of ≥ 0.1 to ≤ 5.0 wt % relative to the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition may be substantially free of swelling agents.

[0117] additive

[0118] The composition may also contain customary and known additives.

[0119] For example, suitable additives are: alcohols such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol; sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, maltitol, maltotriose, mannitol, sucrase, erythritol, glucose, fructose, starch sugar, maltose, xylytose, starch sugar reducing alcohol; preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and imidazolidinyl urea; antioxidants such as tocopherol; chelating agents such as disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid and salts thereof; salts such as sodium chloride, potassium chloride, ammonium chloride, sodium sulfate, potassium sulfate and ammonium sulfate; salts, Such as sodium chloride, potassium chloride, ammonium chloride, sodium sulfate, potassium sulfate and ammonium sulfate; pearlescent aids, such as ethylene glycol distearate and mica; UV filters and sunscreens, for example, such as isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, lipophilic cinnamate, salicylate, 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives or hydrophilic sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenone or 3-benzylidene camphor; pH adjusters, such as citric acid, formic acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, pyruvic acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; sunscreens, such as kaolin and titanium oxide; solubilizers; perfume oils; dyes; and amino acids and / or hydrolyzed proteins.

[0120] If present, alcohol is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.1 to ≤20 wt % relative to the total weight of the composition; each of sugar alcohol, salt, pearlescent aid, and UV filter and sunscreen is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.1 to ≤5.0 wt %; each of antioxidant, pH adjuster, chelating agent, sunscreen, preservative, fragrance oil, solubilizer, amino acid and hydrolyzed protein and / or dye is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.01 to ≤1.0 wt %.

[0121] pH

[0122] In a preferred embodiment, the pH of the composition is below 4.0, more preferably in the range of ≥1.0 to ≤3.5, more preferably in the range of ≥1.5 to ≤3.0.

[0123] The pH of the composition can be adjusted using a pH adjusting agent (including an acidifying agent and / or an alkalizing agent). The alkalizing agent can be selected from the group consisting of an inorganic alkali agent, an organic alkali agent, and a hydride alkali agent. For example, a suitable inorganic alkali agent can be selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide; preferably, the inorganic alkali agent is sodium hydroxide.

[0124] Viscosity

[0125] In a preferred embodiment, the viscosity of the composition at 25° C. is in the range of ≧100 to ≦2,000 mPa.s, preferably in the range of ≧200 to ≦1,500 mPa.s, more preferably in the range of ≧500 to ≦1,000 mPa.s.

[0126] In a preferred embodiment, viscosity is determined as follows: Viscosity measurements are performed on a controlled stress rheometer model AR500, AR1000 or AR2000 manufactured by TA Instruments, or equivalent. A 6 cm flat acrylic cross-hatch parallel plate geometry (TA Item 518600.901) and a stainless steel cross-hatch base plate (TA Item 570011.001) are used. The rheometer is prepared for flow measurements according to standard manufacturer procedures. The parallel plate geometry gap is set to 1,000 microns. The flow program is programmed into the rheometer under the following conditions: continuous stress ramp of 0.1-300 Pa over 2 minutes at 25°C, including 250 measurement points in linear mode. The product is loaded into the geometry according to standard procedures. The shear stress versus shear rate curve is obtained in 10 seconds. -1 The shear stress value at the shear rate was calculated and the corresponding viscosity was calculated by dividing the obtained shear stress by 10.

[0127] Application form

[0128] In one embodiment, the composition is a leave-in composition. "Leave-in" means a composition that is not rinsed off after application to the hair, in particular before the hair is flat-ironed. In an alternative embodiment, the composition is a rinse-off composition. "Rinse-off" means a composition that is rinsed off after application to the hair, in particular before the hair is flat-ironed. The composition is preferably a rinse-off composition.

[0129] The inventors have shown that, after application, when the hair is heated (e.g. by using a flat iron), the composition generates minimal smoke. This is advantageous, in particular compared to conventional cosmetic compositions for semi-permanent deformation of hair. In fact, conventional cosmetic compositions may generate significant amounts of smoke when the hair is heated (e.g. by using a flat iron). This is inconvenient for the hairdresser and / or the user, as it may irritate the eyes and mucous membranes, and generate unwanted / unpleasant odors. This is particularly inconvenient in a hairdressing salon, whether or not several hairdressers may be performing treatments simultaneously.

[0130] Method for semi-permanent deformation of hair

[0131] In a second aspect, the presently claimed invention relates to a method for semi-permanent deformation of hair. The method comprises the following steps:

[0132] (A) providing a cosmetic composition as described above;

[0133] (B) applying the cosmetic composition to the hair;

[0134] (C) Heat is applied to the hair using a heating device.

[0135] The composition can be applied to dry hair. The composition can be left on the hair at room temperature, preferably at a temperature in the range of ≥18 to ≤35° C. The contact time of the composition with the hair is preferably in the range of ≥10 to ≤60 min, more preferably in the range of ≥20 to ≤40 min.

[0136] Applying heat to the hair (ie heat treating) preferably consists of heating the hair to a temperature in the range ≥150 to ≤250°C, preferably in the range ≥170 to ≤230°C, more preferably in the range ≥185 to ≤220°C.

[0137] When applying heat, the heating device is passed over the hair at least once, preferably 5 to 15 times, more preferably 8 to 10 times. The heating device is preferably selected from known heating devices; more preferably, the heating device is a heated hair iron, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of a flat hair straightener and a hair curler. The heated hair iron generally comprises a heated tong, which is generally a metal heated tong.

[0138] Before applying the composition of the presently claimed invention, the hair can be cleaned, for example using a shampoo composition, and rinsed with water. After rinsing and before applying the composition of the presently claimed invention, the hair can be dried, for example using a hair dryer.

[0139] Prior to applying the composition of the presently claimed invention, a pre-treatment composition may be applied to the hair.

[0140] After applying heat, a post-treatment composition may be applied to the hair. The post-treatment composition may be, for example, a conditioning composition.

[0141] use

[0142] In a third aspect, the presently claimed invention relates to the use of the above-mentioned composition for the semi-permanent deformation of hair.

[0143] advantage

[0144] The presently claimed invention provides one or more of the following advantages:

[0145] - The composition provides excellent semi-permanent molding properties;

[0146] - The composition provides hair manageability and hair conditioning;

[0147] - the composition does not impart any unpleasant stinging and itching sensation;

[0148] - the composition does not damage the hair;

[0149] - the composition generates a minimum amount of smoke when applied;

[0150] - the composition provides satisfactory consistency, rinsability, combability after rinsing (before flat ironing), combability with product, hair texture before flat ironing, hair texture after blow drying and / or straightener use;

[0151] - the composition is easy to manufacture as it contains very few components; and

[0152] - The composition does not deposit on the hair.

[0153] Implementation

[0154] Illustrative embodiments of the invention currently claimed are listed below, but do not limit the invention currently claimed. In particular, the invention currently claimed also covers those embodiments resulting from the dependent references and the combinations specified below. More particularly, in the case of the naming of a series of embodiments below, for example, the expression "a method according to any one of embodiments 1 to 4" should be understood so that any combination of embodiments within this range is clearly disclosed to a person skilled in the art, which means that the expression should be regarded as synonymous with "a method according to any one of embodiments 1, 2, 3 and 4":

[0155] Embodiment 1 - A cosmetic composition for the semi-permanent deformation of keratin fibers, preferably human hair, comprising:

[0156] (a) at least one α-keto acid, optionally in the form of a salt thereof or a hydrate thereof;

[0157] (b) at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of from 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;

[0158] (c) Diutacol;

[0159] (d) at least one fatty alcohol; and

[0160] (e) at least one nonionic surfactant which is different from component (d).

[0161] Embodiment 2 - The composition according to embodiment 1, wherein the at least one α-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, pyruvic acid and 2-ketobutyric acid; preferably, the α-keto acid is glyoxylic acid.

[0162] Embodiment 3 - A composition according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein component a) is present in an amount in the range of ≥3.0 to ≤25.0 wt.-%, preferably in the range of ≥5.0 to ≤22.0 wt.-%, more preferably in the range of ≥10.0 to ≤19.0 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] Embodiment 4 - A composition according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein the quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide is lauryl methyl glucose ethoxylate-10 hydroxypropyl dimonium chloride.

[0164] Embodiment 5 - A composition according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein component b) is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.1 to ≤10.0 wt.-%, more preferably ranging from ≥0.1 to ≤5 wt.-%, even more preferably ranging from ≥0.5 to ≤3 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0165] Embodiment 6 - The composition according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein the weight average molecular weight of diutanol determined according to the method of the present specification is in the range of ≥2.8 million Daltons to ≤5.2 million Daltons.

[0166] Embodiment 7 - A composition according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein component c) is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.01 to ≤1.0 wt. %, preferably ranging from ≥0.01 to ≤0.5 wt. %, more preferably ranging from ≥0.01 to ≤0.3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] Embodiment 8 - A composition according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein at least one fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of linear or branched C14 to C30 fatty alcohols; more preferably selected from the group consisting of linear C 14 To C 30 even more preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

[0168] Embodiment 9 - A composition according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein component d) is present in an amount in the range of ≥2.5 to ≤20.0 wt.-%, preferably in the range of ≥3 to ≤15 wt.-%, more preferably in the range of ≥4 to ≤10 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0169] Embodiment 10 - A composition according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8 to C 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; preferably selected from polyoxyethylene C8 to C having at least 2 ethylene oxide units or at least 5 ethylene oxide units 30 More preferably selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8 to C having 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; preferably selected from polyoxyethylene C8 to C having 15 to 30 ethylene oxide units 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; more preferably selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol polyoxyethylene ether-25 and stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylene ether-20.

[0170] Embodiment 11 - A composition according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein component e) is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.2 to ≤5.0 wt.-%, more preferably ranging from ≥0.5 to ≤4 wt.-%, even more preferably ranging from ≥1.0 to ≤2.5 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] Embodiment 12 - A composition according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein:

[0172] (a) at least one α-keto acid is present in an amount ranging from ≥3.0 to ≤25.0 wt. %, preferably ranging from ≥5.0 wt. % to ≤22.0 wt. %, more preferably ranging from ≥10.0 to ≤19.0 wt. % relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0173] (b) at least one quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl glucose ether is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.1 to ≤10.0 wt. %, more preferably ranging from ≥0.1 to ≤5.0 wt. %, even more preferably ranging from ≥0.5 to ≤3 wt. % relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0174] (c) diutan gum is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.01 to ≤1.0 wt %, preferably ranging from ≥0.01 to ≤0.5 wt %, more preferably ranging from ≥0.01 to ≤0.3 wt %, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0175] (d) at least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from ≥2.5 to ≤20.0 wt. %, preferably ranging from ≥3.0 to ≤15.0 wt. %, more preferably ranging from ≥4.0 to ≤10.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0176] (e) at least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.2 to ≤5.0 wt. %, more preferably ranging from ≥0.5 to ≤4.0 wt. %, even more preferably ranging from ≥1.0 to ≤2.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0177] Embodiment 13 - A composition according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein the pH of the composition is below 4.0, preferably in the range of ≥1 to ≤3.5, more preferably in the range of ≥1.5 to ≤3.0.

[0178] Embodiment 14 - A composition according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein the composition further comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable carrier.

[0179] Embodiment 15 - A composition according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein the viscosity of the composition at 25°C determined according to the method of the present description is in the range of ≥100 to ≤2,000 mPa.s, preferably in the range of ≥200 to ≤1,500 mPa.s, more preferably in the range of ≥500 to ≤1,000 mPa.s.

[0180] Embodiment 16 - A composition according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein the composition comprises component (d) and component (e) in a weight ratio in the range of ≥10.0:0.5 to ≤10.0:4.0, more preferably in the range of ≥10.0:1.0 to ≤10.0:3.5, even more preferably in the range of ≥10.0:1.5 to ≤10.0:3.0.

[0181] Embodiment 17 - A composition according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein component (d) and component (e) are partially or completely contained in the composition in the form of a gel network system.

[0182] Embodiment 18 - A composition according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein the composition is a leave-on composition or a rinse-off composition; preferably a rinse-off composition.

[0183] Embodiment 19 - A method for semi-permanent deformation of hair, said method comprising at least the following steps:

[0184] (A) providing a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments;

[0185] (B) applying the cosmetic composition to the hair; and

[0186] (C) Heat is applied to the hair using a heating device.

[0187] Embodiment 20 - A method according to embodiment 19, wherein in step (C) the hair is heated to a temperature in the range of ≥150 to ≤250°C, preferably in the range of ≥170 to ≤230°C, more preferably in the range of ≥185 to ≤220°C.

[0188] Embodiment 21 - The method according to embodiment 19 or 20, wherein in step (C), the heating device is a heated hair iron.

[0189] Embodiment 22 - The method according to embodiment 21, wherein the heated hair iron is selected from the group consisting of a flat hair straightener or a hair curling iron.

[0190] Embodiment 23 - Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 18 for the semi-permanent deformation of hair.

[0191] While the presently claimed invention has been described in terms of specific embodiments thereof, certain modifications and equivalents will be apparent to those skilled in the art and are intended to be included within the scope of the presently claimed invention.

[0192] Example

[0193] The presently claimed invention is illustrated in detail by the following non-limiting working examples. More particularly, the test methods indicated below are part of the general disclosure of the present application and are not limited to the specific working examples.

[0194] Material

[0195] Glyoxylic acid: Glyoxo HighPure 50 from Weylchem

[0196] Lauryl Methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride: Glucquat™ 125 Wetting Agent from Lubrizol

[0197] Diutan: Kelco-Care™ Diutan from CP Kelco France or Lubrizol

[0198] Cetearyl Alcohol

[0199] Stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylene ether-20

[0200] water

[0201] glycerin

[0202] Sodium hydroxide

[0203] Preparation of cosmetic compositions

[0204] The formation of the gel network involves heating a dispersion of fatty alcohol in water together with a nonionic surfactant to a temperature above 80°C. During the mixing process, the fatty alcohol melts, causing the surfactant to partition into the fatty alcohol droplets. The surfactant brings water with it into the fatty alcohol. This turns the isotropic fatty alcohol droplets into liquid crystal phase droplets. When the mixture is cooled below the chain melting temperature, the liquid crystal phase transforms into a solid crystalline gel network. Then, the other materials are added to the obtained mixture.

[0205] formula

[0206] Table 1

[0207]

[0208] Method for semi-permanent deformation of hair

[0209] The semi-permanent molding method includes the following steps:

[0210] (A) washing hair with a shampoo composition;

[0211] (B) combing or brushing the hair;

[0212] (C) Dry the hair with a towel;

[0213] (D) drying the hair, for example within a 1 min period;

[0214] (E) combing or brushing the hair;

[0215] (F) applying a cosmetic composition for semi-permanent deformation to hair;

[0216] (G) combing or brushing the hair;

[0217] (H) leaving the composition on for a sufficient period of time for deformation of the hair, for example, about 20 minutes;

[0218] (I) rinsing the hair to completely wash off the composition;

[0219] (J) blow drying the hair; and

[0220] (K) Divide the hair into thin strands and pull the flat iron through the strands (from root to tip, 6 to 8 times).

[0221] Example 1: Half-head test

[0222] The hair damage caused by the compositions of the presently claimed invention (the present invention) was tested on 5 different models using a half-head test using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).

[0223] Tested recipes

[0224] The composition (present invention) has the following formula: 15.0 wt% of glyoxylic acid, 6.75 wt% of cetearyl alcohol, 4.96 wt% of glycerin, 2.0 wt% of lauryl methyl glucose polyoxyethylene ether-10 hydroxypropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, 1.48 wt% of stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylene ether-20, 3.0 wt% of sodium hydroxide, 0.15 wt% of diutan gum, and water (qs 100 wt%).

[0225] Untreated hair was used as control.

[0226] Sample preparation

[0227] Approximately 10 single hair fibers / sample were glued to an alumina stub using conductive double tape.

[0228] SEM Solution

[0229] SEM examination was performed using the following conditions:

[0230] - Instrument: Zeiss Ultra 55 from Mantis

[0231] - Mode: HV

[0232] - Accelerating voltage: 0 / 8 kV

[0233] - Working distance: 7 mm

[0234] - Tilt: 0°

[0235] - Detection: SE2

[0236] - Coating: Uncoated

[0237] - File: *.TIF

[0238] result

[0239] The untreated samples (control) showed only little to no damage (see Appendix Figure 1a / b is used for illustration purposes).

[0240] None of the five samples tested with the composition (of the present invention) showed any discernible damage compared to the untreated sample, which corresponds to 100% success. Figure 2a / b, for illustrating undamaged samples treated with the composition (invention).

[0241] Variations and modifications of the present invention and its further embodiments, in addition to those described herein, will become apparent to those skilled in the art in light of the full content of this document. The subject matter herein contains such information, examples, and guidance that can be adapted to the practice of the present invention in the form of its various embodiments and their equivalents. The appended claims are intended to cover all such variations, modifications, embodiments, and equivalents.

[0242] Example 2: Comparative test

[0243] The performance of the composition of the presently claimed invention (Composition A) was compared to the performance of three comparative compositions (Comparatives) containing either no diutan gum (Composition 1), no quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide (Composition 2), or no both compounds (Composition 3).

[0244] Tested recipes

[0245] The compositions tested had the following formulations:

[0246] Table 2

[0247]

[0248] plan

[0249] The hairstylist applies the compositions to mannequin hair and evaluates and compares their performance based on various properties, benefits and / or advantages.

[0250] Using the following scale, stylists rated the performance of each composition for each property, benefit or advantage:

[0251] Table 3

[0252]

[0253] result

[0254] The results of the hairstylists' evaluations are compiled in the table below:

[0255] Table 4

[0256]

[0257] The results reported in Table 4 demonstrate that the compositions of the presently claimed invention provide equivalent performance or improved performance beyond expectations, depending on the property, benefit or advantage under consideration.

[0258] Variations and modifications of the present invention and its further embodiments, in addition to those described herein, will become apparent to those skilled in the art in light of the full content of this document. The subject matter herein contains such information, examples, and guidance that can be adapted to the practice of the present invention in the form of its various embodiments and their equivalents. The appended claims are intended to cover all such variations, modifications, embodiments, and equivalents.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition for semi-permanent deformation of keratin fibers, preferably human hair, comprising: (a) at least one α-keto acid, optionally in the form of a salt thereof or a hydrate thereof; (b) at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of from 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; (c) Diutacol; (d) at least one fatty alcohol; and (e) at least one nonionic surfactant different from component (d).

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one α-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, pyruvic acid and 2-ketobutyric acid; preferably, the α-keto acid is glyoxylic acid.

3. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide is lauryl methyl glucose ethoxylate-10 hydroxypropyl dimonium chloride.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of linear or branched C14 to C30 fatty alcohols; more preferably selected from the group consisting of linear C 14 To C 30 even more preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from polyoxyethylene C8 to C 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; preferably selected from polyoxyethylene C8 to C having at least 2 ethylene oxide units or at least 5 ethylene oxide units 30 More preferably selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8 to C having 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; preferably selected from polyoxyethylene C8 to C having 15 to 30 ethylene oxide units 30 The group consisting of alkyl ethers; more preferably selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol polyoxyethylene ether-25 and stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylene ether-20.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: (a) the at least one α-keto acid is present in an amount in the range of ≥3.0 to ≤25.0 wt. %, preferably in the range of ≥5.0 wt. % to ≤22.0 wt. %, more preferably in the range of ≥10.0 to ≤19.0 wt. % relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) the at least one quaternary ammonium salt of ethoxylated methyl glucose ether is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.1 to ≤10.0 wt. %, more preferably ranging from ≥0.1 to ≤5.0 wt. %, even more preferably ranging from ≥0.5 to ≤3.0 wt. % relative to the total weight of the composition; (c) diutan gum is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.01 to ≤1.0 wt %, preferably ranging from ≥0.01 to ≤0.5 wt %, more preferably ranging from ≥0.01 to ≤0.3 wt %, relative to the total weight of the composition; (d) the at least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from ≥2.5 to ≤20.0 wt. %, preferably ranging from ≥3.0 to ≤15.0 wt. %, more preferably ranging from ≥4.0 to ≤10.0 wt. % relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or (e) the at least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from ≥0.2 to ≤5.0 wt. %, more preferably ranging from ≥0.5 to ≤4.0 wt. %, even more preferably ranging from ≥1.0 to ≤2.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pH of the composition is below 4.0, preferably in the range of ≥1 to ≤3.5, more preferably in the range of ≥1.5 to ≤3.

0.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the viscosity of the composition at 25°C determined according to the method of the present description is in the range of ≥100 to ≤2,000 mPa.s, preferably in the range of ≥200 to ≤1,500 mPa.s, more preferably in the range of ≥500 to ≤1,000 mPa.s.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises component (d) and component (e) in a weight ratio in the range of ≥10.0:0.5 to ≤10.0:4.0, more preferably in the range of ≥10.0:1.0 to ≤10.0:3.5, even more preferably in the range of ≥10.0:1.5 to ≤10.0:3.

0.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein component (d) and component (e) are partially or completely contained in the composition in the form of a gel network system.

11. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition is a leave-on composition or a rinse-off composition; preferably a rinse-off composition.

12. A method for semi-permanent deformation of hair, the method comprising at least the following steps: (A) providing a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims; (B) applying the cosmetic composition to the hair; as well as (C) applying heat to the hair using a heating device.

13. The method according to claim 12, wherein in step (C), the hair is heated to a temperature in the range of ≥150 to ≤250°C, preferably in the range of ≥170 to ≤230°C, more preferably in the range of ≥185 to ≤220°C.

14. The method according to claim 12 or 13, wherein in step (C), the heating device is a heated hair iron; preferably, the heated hair iron is selected from the group consisting of a flat hair straightener or a hair curler.

15. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18 for semi-permanent deformation of hair.

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