Peony seed oil microcapsule skin care product with light damage repairing effect and preparation method of peony seed oil microcapsule skin care product

Abstract

The invention provides a method for preparing a peony seed oil microcapsule skin care product with a light damage repairing effect, and the method comprises the following steps: utilizing an enzymolysis method, adjusting the pH value, and extracting peony seed oil. And preparing the peony seed oil microcapsule by using a spray drying method. The skin care product is prepared from the following raw material components in parts by weight: 1 to 3 parts of Tween 60, 1.5 to 3 parts of span 80, 4 to 12 parts of glycerol, 2 parts of 1, 3-butanediol, 1 part of isopropyl isostearate, 0.5 part of allantoin, 0.3 part of sodium hyaluronate, 0.2 part of carbomer, 1 to 3 parts of glycerin monostearate, 2 parts of stearic acid, 2 to 6 parts of wool fat, 2 to 4 parts of peony seed oil microcapsules and 62.2 to 81.7 parts of ultrapure water. A spray drying microencapsulation technology is utilized to wrap the peony seed oil, so that the peony seed oil is prepared into the microcapsule with a capsule wall and a slow release characteristic, and the prepared microcapsule can retain or retain the peony seed oil, so that the effects of protection, controlled release and the like are achieved. The peony seed oil microcapsule is prepared into a skin care product, so that the skin care product has the effects of replenishing water, preserving moisture and repairing light damage.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention belongs to the field of pharmaceutical cosmetics, and particularly relates to the preparation of peony seed oil microcapsule skin care products and their use in repairing photo-damage. Background Art

[0002] Acute photo-damage is a phenomenon in which the skin structure and function change due to short-term overexposure to strong ultraviolet rays. According to the degree of damage, acute photo-damage can be divided into mild pigmentation and severe sunburn. The histopathological changes of acute photo-damage mainly include thickening of the epidermal stratum corneum, formation of apoptotic keratinocytes (sunburn cells), and infiltration of neutrophils, lymphocytes, and monocytes in the dermis. After UVB irradiation, epidermal cell proliferation occurs quickly, leading to epidermal thickening. Topical functional skin care products are a common method for treating skin photo-damage.

[0003] Peony seed oil has the effects of anti-inflammation, anti-oxidation, and damage repair. However, peony seed oil has the problems of easy oxidation and volatility. Using gum arabic and β-cyclodextrin compounded in a certain proportion as the wall material and peony seed oil as the core material, and making it into the form of microcapsules can effectively reduce the oxidation rate of peony seed oil and enable peony seed oil to exert its efficacy more durably. Summary of the Invention

[0004] In order to solve the above problems, the present invention proposes a preparation method of peony seed oil microcapsule skin care products with the efficacy of repairing photo-damage. The steps of the method are as follows: Step 1: Extraction of peony seed oil. The specific steps are as follows: 1) Take shelled peony seeds, crush them through a 40-mesh sieve, soak them in 0.3 mol / L citric acid solution for 6 h, dry them in an electric drying oven at 100 °C, and then crush them.

[0005] 2) Add and mix with deionized water at a solid-liquid ratio of 1:(5 - 9) by mass to obtain a peony seed powder solution; add 0.1 - 0.9% of cellulose / pectinase complex enzyme based on the total mass of the solution, adjust the pH of the solution to 6 - 10, and react in a water bath at 30 - 70 °C for 1 - 3 h.

[0006] 3) Centrifuge at a speed of 10000 r / min for 10 min, collect the supernatant to obtain peony seed oil.

[0007] Step 2: Preparation of peony seed oil microcapsules. The specific steps are as follows: 1) Use peony seed oil as the core material, Tween-80 as the emulsifier, and gum arabic and β-cyclodextrin as the wall material to prepare peony seed oil microcapsules: First, dissolve gum arabic and β-cyclodextrin in distilled water at 60°C according to a mass ratio of 1:(2 - 6). After stirring for 30 min, the wall material content is 10 - 30%. Add core material peony seed oil according to a wall-core mass ratio of (2 - 6):1, and add an emulsifier at a ratio of 0.05% of the sum of the masses of the wall material, core material, water, and emulsifier. When adding the emulsifier, slowly drip it into the wall material and continue stirring in a water bath at 60°C for 1 - 3 h.

[0008] Homogenize in a high-speed shearer at a speed of 12,000 rpm for 10 min. Homogenize continuously three times to obtain a uniformly dispersed emulsion system. Spray-dry the emulsion, setting the parameters: inlet air temperature: 130 - 170°C, outlet air temperature: 90°C, and the feed flow peristaltic pump is 10 mL / min to prepare peony seed oil microcapsules.

[0009] The present invention provides a peony seed oil microcapsule skin care product that can combat photo-damage. Calculated by weight parts of the composition, the skin care product contains the following components: 1 - 3 parts of Tween 60, 1.5 - 3 parts of Span 80, 4 - 12 parts of glycerol, 2 parts of 1,3 - butanediol, 1 part of isopropyl isostearate, 0.5 part of allantoin, 0.3 part of sodium hyaluronate, 0.2 part of carbomer, 1 - 3 parts of glycerol monostearate, 2 parts of stearic acid, 2 - 6 parts of lanolin, 2 - 4 parts of peony seed oil microcapsules, and 62.2 - 81.7 parts of ultrapure water.

[0010] The preparation method of the above-mentioned peony seed oil microcapsule skin care product that can combat photo-damage.

[0011] Divide the various components of the skin care product into two phases: 1) Mix 1 - 3 parts of Tween 60, 2 parts of 1,3 - butanediol, 0.5 part of allantoin, 0.3 part of sodium hyaluronate, 0.2 part of carbomer, and 62.2 - 81.7 parts of ultrapure water to prepare Phase A; 2) Mix 1.5 - 3 parts of Span 80, 4 - 12 parts of glycerol, 1 part of isopropyl isostearate, 1 - 3 parts of glycerol monostearate, 2 parts of stearic acid, 2 - 6 parts of lanolin, and 2 - 4 parts of the peony seed oil microcapsules to prepare Phase B; 3) Heat Phase A and Phase B to 70°C respectively and stir evenly.

[0012] 4) Add Phase B to Phase A and add 0.8 part of methyl paraben, and stir evenly.

[0013] 5) Wait until it cools to room temperature to obtain the peony seed oil microcapsule skin care product.

[0014] The beneficial effects of the present invention: 1. The present invention uses peony seed oil as the core ingredient. On the one hand, the oil yield of peony seeds is high, and it is cheap and easily available. On the other hand, peony seed oil has strong antioxidant and photo-damage repair effects, and has great development and application prospects.

[0015] 2. The present invention uses arabic gum and β-cyclodextrin as composite wall materials, which can greatly improve the encapsulation rate, effectively reduce the oxidation rate of the seed oil, make the efficacy of the seed oil more persistent, and these two wall materials are non-toxic and harmless and also have strong antioxidant and antibacterial abilities, and have a better effect on repairing photo-damage.

[0016] 3. The present invention provides skin care products that can combat photoaging damage. The present invention uses common skin care ingredients such as 1,3-butanediol, glycerol, lanolin, etc. to prepare peony seed oil microcapsule skin care products. Their physical and chemical indexes such as heat resistance, cold resistance, viscosity, pH, etc. all meet the national cosmetic standards. This product can effectively repair the damage of the skin caused by ultraviolet rays, can scavenge free radicals in the skin, and promote the synthesis of collagen and elastin in the skin. Its effects are reflected in mouse and cell experiments. In short, peony seed oil microcapsule skin care products have significant effects in repairing photo-damage. Description of the Drawings

[0017] Figure 1 Effect of different doses of UVB irradiation on the growth of HaCaT cells; Figure 2 Effect diagram of different concentrations of peony seed oil microcapsule skin care products in Example 1 on the survival rate of modeled cells; Figure 3 Fluorescence detection diagram of scavenging ROS in Example 1 and the control example; Figure 4 Diagram of the recovery degree of mice in Example 1 and the control example; Detailed Embodiments

[0018] The technical solutions of the present invention will be described in detail below in conjunction with the drawings and embodiments.

[0019] Example 1: (1) Extraction of peony seed oil Take 10 g of shelled peony seeds, soak them in 100 ml of 0.3 mol / L citric acid solution for 6 h, place them in a drying oven at 100 °C to dry, grind them after drying, mix them with deionized water at a solid-liquid ratio of 1:7, add 0.5% of cellulose / pectinase complex enzyme based on the total mass of the solution, adjust the pH of the solution to 8, and react in a water bath at 50 °C for 2 h. Centrifuge at 10000 r / min for 10 min, collect the supernatant to obtain peony seed oil. The oil yield is 34.8%.

[0020] (2) Preparation of peony seed oil microcapsules Using peony seed oil as the core material, Tween-80 as the emulsifier, and gum arabic and β-cyclodextrin as the wall materials, peony seed oil microcapsules were prepared. First, gum arabic and β-cyclodextrin were completely dissolved in distilled water at 60 °C in a mass ratio of 1:5 and stirred for 30 min. The solid content (i.e., the wall material) was 20%. The core material, peony seed oil, was added in a wall-core mass ratio of 4:1, and the emulsifier was added in a proportion of 0.05% of the sum of the masses of the wall material, core material, water, and emulsifier. When adding the emulsifier, it was slowly dropped into the wall material, and stirring continued in a water bath at 60 °C for 2 h. Homogenization was carried out at a speed of 12,000 rpm in a high-speed shearer for 10 min. Homogenization was continuously carried out 3 times to obtain a uniformly dispersed emulsion system. For the emulsion spray drying was carried out (inlet air temperature: 160 °C, outlet air temperature: 90 °C, feed flow rate of the peristaltic pump: 10 mL / min) to prepare peony seed oil microcapsules. The encapsulation efficiency was 60.13% (3)Preparation of peony seed oil microcapsule skin care products Tween 60, 1,3-butanediol, allantoin, sodium hyaluronate, and carbomer were dispersed in ultrapure water and dissolved in a water bath at 70 °C for use, thus preparing the aqueous phase.

[0021] Span 80, glycerol, isopropyl isostearate, glycerol monostearate, stearic acid, lanolin, and peony seed oil microcapsules were mixed evenly and kept in a water bath at 70 °C for use, thus preparing the oil phase.

[0022] The aqueous phase was poured into the oil phase, and 0.8% methyl paraben was added and stirred at 70 °C for 5 min to obtain peony seed oil microcapsule skin care products. The formula of Example 1 is shown in Table 1.

[0023] Table 1 Comparing skin care products without peony seed oil microcapsules and commercially available repair skin care products, through the UVB-induced HaCaT cell model experiment, Figure 1 when the irradiation dose was 1500 mj / cm 2 the cell viability was about 50%. Under the irradiation conditions of this dose, the cells reached semi-lethality, and this irradiation dose could be used for the modeling experiment. Figure 2 It was proved that peony seed oil microcapsule skin care products could significantly improve the survival rate of cells after modeling, reaching 87.45%. Fluorescence was used to photograph the ROS generated in cells after treatment with peony seed oil microcapsule skin care products for 24 h after modeling, Figure 3 and it could be intuitively seen that the ROS content in the peony oil microcapsule skin care product group was lower than that in the control group, indicating that this product has a certain ability to scavenge ROS. Through mouse experiments, it could be concluded that this product had a better effect on repairing photo-damage than skin care products containing peony seed oil microcapsules and commercially available repair skin care products, Figure 4It can be seen that after seven days, the microcapsule skin care product of peony seed oil basically recovered, while the repair of the control group was slower.

[0024] Example 2 The difference between this example and Example 1 is the composition of span 80, tween 60, lanolin, and ultrapure water in step (3). The formula of Example 2 is shown in Table 2.

[0025] Table 2 Through tests of physical and chemical indexes such as viscosity test, centrifugation test, heat resistance and cold resistance, it is concluded that this skin care product is thinner, prone to layering and unstable. Through sensory evaluation, this skin care product has a certain moisturizing effect.

[0026] Example 3 The difference from Example 1 is that the composition of lanolin, glycerin, glyceryl monostearate and ultrapure water in step (3) is changed. The formula of Example 3 is shown in Table 3.

[0027] Table 3 Through tests of physical and chemical indexes such as viscosity test, centrifugation test, heat resistance and cold resistance, it is concluded that this skin care product is thicker and not easy to layer. Through sensory evaluation, this skin care product has a certain moisturizing effect, but the various physical and chemical indexes are not as stable as those in Example 1.

Claims

1. A peony seed oil microcapsule skin care product with the effect of repairing light damage, characterized in that: Calculated by weight of the composition, the following components of the skin care product include: 1-3 parts of Tween 60, 1.5-3 parts of Span 80, 4-12 parts of glycerin, 2 parts of 1,3-butylene glycol, 1 part of isopropyl isostearate, 0.5 parts of allantoin, 0.3 parts of sodium hyaluronate, 0.2 parts of carbomer, 1-3 parts of glyceryl monostearate, 2 parts of stearic acid, 2-6 parts of lanolin, 2-4 parts of peony seed oil microcapsules, and 62.2-81.7 parts of ultrapure water.

2. The method for preparing the peony seed oil microcapsule skin care product having the effect of repairing light damage according to claim 1, characterized in that: The method is as follows: 1) Mix 1-3 parts of Tween 60, 2 parts of 1,3-butylene glycol, 0.5 parts of allantoin, 0.3 parts of sodium hyaluronate, 0.2 parts of carbomer and 62.2-81.7 parts of ultrapure water to prepare phase A; 2) Mix 1.5-3 parts of Span 80, 4-12 parts of glycerin, 1 part of isopropyl isostearate, 1-3 parts of glyceryl monostearate, 2 parts of stearic acid, 2-6 parts of lanolin and 2-4 parts of the peony seed oil microcapsules to prepare phase B; 3) Heat phase A and phase B to 70°C respectively and stir evenly; 4) Add phase B to phase A and add 0.8 parts of methyl thiourea and stir evenly; 5) Wait until it cools down to room temperature to obtain the peony seed oil microcapsule skin care product.

3. The method for preparing the peony seed oil microcapsule skin care product having the effect of repairing light damage according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preparation method of the peony seed oil microcapsules in step 2) is as follows: Step 1: Peony seed oil extraction, the specific steps are as follows: 1) Take the shelled peony seeds, crush them through a 40-mesh sieve, soak them in a 0.3 mol / L citric acid solution for 6 h, dry them in an electric drying oven at 100 °C, and then crush them; 2) adding the mixture in a mass ratio of 1:(5-9) to deionized water to obtain a peony seed powder solution; adding 0.1-0.9% of the total mass of the solution to a cellulose / pectinase complex, adjusting the pH of the solution to 6-10, and reacting in a water bath at 30-70°C for 1-3h; 3) Centrifuge at 10000r / min for 10min, collect the supernatant to obtain peony seed oil; Step 2: Preparation of peony seed oil microcapsules, the specific steps are as follows: 1) Peony seed oil microcapsules were prepared using peony seed oil as the core material, Tween-80 as the emulsifier, and gum arabic and β-cyclodextrin as the wall materials: First, completely dissolve gum arabic and β-cyclodextrin in 60°C distilled water at a mass ratio of 1: (2-6), stir for 30 minutes, add core material peony seed oil at a wall-core mass ratio of (2-6): 1 when the wall material content is 10-30%, and add emulsifier at a ratio of 0.05% of the sum of the mass of wall material, core material, water and emulsifier, slowly drip it into the wall material when adding the emulsifier, and continue stirring in a 60°C water bath for 1-3 hours; Homogenize at a speed of 12000 rpm in a high-speed shearer for 10 min; continuously homogenize for 3 times to obtain a uniformly dispersed emulsion system; spray dry the emulsion, set the parameters: inlet temperature: 130-170℃, outlet temperature: 90℃, feed flow rate peristaltic pump is 10mL / min, and prepare peony seed oil microcapsules.

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