Cosmetic composition for matte foundation make-up

Abstract

A cosmetic composition for providing a matte foundation can be provided comprising an oil-controlling filler, a colorant, a hydrocarbyl oil, a hydrocarbyl emulsifier, water, and a UV filter system consisting of an organic hydrophobic UV filter, an organic water-soluble UV filter, and an inorganic UV filter. The oil control filler may consist of a silica aerogel and optionally a modified starch, amorphous silica, clay, and / or a silicone elastomer. The organic hydrophobic UV filter may consist of octyl salicylate, and the cosmetic composition may be free of other organic hydrophobic UV filters. The organic water soluble UV filter may be comprised of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (PBSA), and the cosmetic composition may be free of other organic water soluble UV filters. The inorganic UV filter may consist of UV-grade titanium dioxide, and the cosmetic composition may be free of other inorganic UV filters.

Description

[0001] Cross-reference to related applications

[0002] This application claims priority to U.S. Provisional Patent Application No. 17 / 960,263, filed Oct. 5, 2022, and French Application 2300105, filed Jan. 5, 2023, the content of each of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Field of the Invention

[0003] This application relates to a cosmetic composition for use as a matte foundation, and in particular a foundation having a relatively high sun protection factor (SPF) value, oil control, and large depth and transparency of shadows. Background of the Invention

[0004] Conventional matte foundations that can be used for various skin pigmentations either do not contain ultraviolet (UV) filters or only contain relatively low levels of UV filters (e.g., sufficient to give an SPF of 20 or less). This is because conventional UV filter systems can compromise the characteristics required for a matte foundation. Specifically, using a high level of organic UV filter (to achieve a higher SPF) system, which will give the formulation deep shadows, but will make the refractive index too high to provide oil control and a matte surface. Conversely, using a high level of inorganic UV filter (or “physical” sunscreen) will more readily provide oil control and a matte surface, but will compromise the depth and sharpness of the shadows.

[0005] Accordingly, there is a need for a composition that can be used as a foundation that can provide the desired characteristics—high levels of oil control, a matte surface, and large depth and sharpness of shadows. Summary of the Invention

[0006] To provide the desired characteristics while providing a relatively high SPF (e.g., SPF>20), a cosmetic composition can be provided. The cosmetic composition can also provide an optical blurring effect to minimize the appearance of pores, as well as provide oil control and skin care benefits over time to improve dryness, blemishes, and signs of aging.

[0007] A cosmetic composition for providing a matte foundation may comprise an oil control filler, a colorant, a hydrocarbon oil, a hydrocarbon emulsifier, water, and a UV filter system composed of an organic hydrophobic UV filter, an organic water-soluble UV filter, and an inorganic UV filter. The oil control filler may be composed of silica aerogel and optionally modified starch, amorphous silica, clay, and / or silicone elastomer. The organic hydrophobic UV filter may be composed of octyl salicylate, and the cosmetic composition may be free of other organic hydrophobic UV filters. The organic water-soluble UV filter may be composed of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (PBSA), and the cosmetic composition may be free of other organic water-soluble UV filters. The inorganic UV filter may be composed of UV-grade titanium dioxide, and the cosmetic composition may be free of other inorganic UV filters.

[0008] In some embodiments, the composition may be a water-in-oil emulsion. In some embodiments, the inorganic UV filter may be present in an amount less than 5 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, the inorganic UV filter may be present in an amount less than 3 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, the oil control filler may be present in an amount less than 10 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise a polyol. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise a non-volatile silicone oil. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise a vitamin. In some embodiments, the amount of the hydrocarbon oil plus the amount of the non-volatile silicone oil may be less than 30 wt% of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition may be free of volatile silicone oil. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon oil may be present in an amount less than 10 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, the colorant may be present in an amount less than 30 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, the colorant may be composed of one or more pigments, each pigment preferably being coated. In some embodiments, one or more pigments include pigment-grade titanium dioxide. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise a preservative, a silicone resin, a thickener, a pH regulator or buffer, an electrolyte, a flavonoid, a synthetic peptide, and / or an amino acid or amino acid derivative.

[0009] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise an oil control filler, a colorant, a hydrocarbon oil, a hydrocarbon emulsifier, water, and a UV filter system, which may optionally comprise a polyol, a non-volatile silicone oil, a vitamin, a preservative, a silicone resin, a thickener, a pH regulator or buffer, an electrolyte, a flavonoid, a synthetic peptide, and / or an amino acid or amino acid derivative, which may optionally be free of volatile silicone oil and may be substantially free of all other materials.

[0010] A method for applying cosmetics to the face can be provided. The method can include applying the cosmetic composition disclosed herein to the face during a first time period and then removing the cosmetic composition from the face during a second time period after the first time period. In some embodiments, the method can include applying a second composition to the cosmetic composition after the first time period and before the second time period. Detailed Description

[0011] In the following description of the present invention and in the appended claims herein, it should be understood that unless otherwise indicated, the terms used have their ordinary and customary meanings in the art. Unless otherwise indicated, all concentrations are in weight percentages based on the active substance.

[0012] As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include combinations of each specific range and sub-ranges between the given ranges within the given range. Thus, the range of 1-5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as sub-ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.

[0013] The term "matte" as used herein refers to an oil-free, non-glossy surface. As used herein, the term matte can be used to describe the surface provided by a composition to a substrate, such as matting oily or combination skin; and to describe the surface of a composition on a substrate, such as the matte film of a lipstick on the lips. In some cases, the degree of matte of a composition can be measured by measuring the reflectance R of the composition using a gonioreflectometer, where R is the ratio of specular reflection to diffuse reflection. The lower the value of R, the higher the oil control effect. Preferably, R is less than 1.6. In some cases, the glossiness of the film (expressed as % reflectance) is also measured using a glossmeter to measure the degree of matte of the composition on the substrate, where a lower reflectance has a higher degree of matte. Preferably, the reflectance can be 5% or less.

[0014] The term "substantially free of" as used herein means that a particular material can be present in an amount less than 1 wt% based on the total weight of the composition and does not substantially affect the basic and novel features of the claimed invention. In some cases, the composition can contain less than 0.5 wt.%, less than 0.1 wt.%, less than 0.05 wt.% or less than 0.01 wt.% of the specified material, or be completely free of the specified material.

[0015] A cosmetic composition that can produce a matte foundation can be provided.

[0016] Oil-control filler

[0017] The cosmetic composition may comprise an oil-control filler. The oil-control filler may consist of silica aerogel and optionally modified starch, amorphous silica, clay, and / or silicone elastomer.

[0018] In some embodiments, the oil-control filler present may be present in the composition at no more than 15 wt%, 12 wt%, 10 wt%, 9 wt%, 8 wt%, or 7 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of the oil-control filler present in the composition is preferably no more than 7 wt% of the composition.

[0019] Silica aerogel.

[0020] The amount of silica aerogel present in the composition will typically be at least 0.5 wt%, or at least 0.6 wt%, or at least 0.7 wt% of the composition. It will typically be at most 0.7 wt%, or at most 0.8 wt%, or at most 0.9 wt% of the composition.

[0021] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are typically synthesized in a liquid medium via the sol-gel method and then typically dried by extraction with a supercritical fluid (one of the most commonly used is supercritical CO2).

[0022] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area (SM) per unit mass in the range of 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably 600 to 1200 m 2 / g, and more preferably 600 to 800 m 2 / g, and a size expressed as the average volume diameter (D[0.5]) in the range of 1 to 30 μm, preferably 5 to 25 μm, more preferably 5 to 20 μm, and even more preferably 5 to 15 μm. The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined via the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) nitrogen adsorption method described in Journal of the American Chemical Society, Volume 60, page 309, February 1938, and corresponds to International Standard ISO5794 / 1 (Appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

[0023] The size of the silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data is processed according to Mie scattering theory. This theory (which is exact for isotropic particles) enables the determination of an "effective" particle size in the case of non-spherical particles.

[0024] In some embodiments, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may have a diameter ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 The specific surface area per unit mass (S M ) and a size expressed as an average volume diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μm, and more preferably from 5 to 15 μm.

[0025] In some embodiments, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may have a diameter ranging from 5 to 60 μm. 2 / cm 3 , preferably 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 , and more preferably 15 to 40 m 2 / cm 3 The specific surface area per unit volume S V .

[0026] In some embodiments, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may have an oil absorption (measured at the wet point) ranging from 5 to 18 mL / g, preferably from 6 to 15 mL / g, and better still from 8 to 12 mL / g. The oil absorption measured at the wet point (denoted Wp) corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the wet point method or the method for determining the oil absorption of powders described in standard NFT 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and / or adsorbed by the powder by measuring the wet point.

[0027] In some embodiments, the silica aerogel may be a hydrophobic silica aerogel, and may preferably be silica silylate (INCI name: SILICA SILYLATE).

[0028] As used herein, the term "hydrophobic silica" refers to any silica whose surface is treated with a silylating agent, such as a halogenated silane such as an alkylchlorosilane, a siloxane, in particular a dimethylsiloxane such as hexamethyldisiloxane or a silazane, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn (e.g., trimethylsilyl). In some embodiments, the silica aerogel may be hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups. Non-limiting examples of silica aerogels include aerogels sold by Dow Corning under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica Silylate), the particles of which have an average size of about 1000 μm and a range of 600 to 800 μm. 2The specific surface area per unit mass in g; aerogels sold by Cabot Corporation under the numbers Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova Aerogel MT 1 100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200. In some embodiments, the aerogel can be an aerogel sold by Dow Corning under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: silylated silica), the particles of which have an average size in the range of 5 - 15 μm and a specific surface area in the range of 600 to 800 m 2 / g per unit mass. Based on isononyl isononanoate, its oil absorption is 1090 mL / 100 g.

[0029] Modified starch.

[0030] If included, the amount of modified starch present in the composition will typically be at least 0.5 wt%, or at least 0.75 wt%, or at least 1 wt% of the composition. It will typically be at most 1 wt%, or at most 1.5 wt%, or at most 2 wt% of the composition.

[0031] Modified starch is starch modified by methods known to those skilled in the art such as esterification, etherification, oxidation, acid hydrolysis, crosslinking or enzymatic conversion. Modified starch can be hydrophobically modified starch.

[0032] Non-limiting examples of modified starch include aluminum octenyl succinate starch, sodium octenyl succinate starch, calcium octenyl succinate starch, distarch phosphate, hydroxyethyl phosphate starch, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch and sodium starch glycolate.

[0033] In some embodiments, the modified starch can be an octenyl succinate of starch, especially aluminum, and the starch is corn, wheat or rice. Particular mention may be made of the product provided by AKZO NOBEL under the name DRY FLO PLUS. We may also mention rice starch, such as the product D.S.A.7 provided by Agrana Starch.

[0034] Amorphous silica.

[0035] If included, the amount of modified starch present in the composition will typically be at least 1 wt%, or at least 2 wt%, or at least 3 wt% of the composition. It will typically be at most 5 wt%, or at most 7 wt%, or at most 10 wt% of the composition.

[0036] The composition of the present invention may be spherical amorphous silica. "Spherical" amorphous silica means particulate silica that is substantially spherical. In some embodiments, the spherical amorphous silica may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent. In some embodiments, the spherical silica is "natural" silica, that is, without a hydrophobic surface treatment, and may have a chemical purity of at least 90%, such as at least 95% or at least 98%, relative to the silica. In some embodiments, the average size of these spherical amorphous silica particles is less than 15.0 microns, and more particularly in the range of 3 to 10 microns.

[0037] Useful spherical amorphous silica particles according to the present invention are colorless or white solid particles of any shape, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0038] Non-limiting examples of amorphous silica include SilicaBeads SB-700 (average size 4.6 microns and oil absorption Wp: 133 mL / 100 g) from Myoshi Corporation; H51 (average size 5.1 microns and oil absorption Wp: 133 mL / 100 g), H33 (average size 2.9 microns and oil absorption Wp: 370 mL / 100 g) sold by Asahi Glass Company. porous silica microspheres.

[0039] Clay.

[0040] If included, the amount of clay present in the composition will typically be relatively low and will typically be at most 0.01 wt% or at most 0.1 wt% of the composition. If used, such clay may be modified clay or natural clay, and is preferably non-swelling clay. In some embodiments, the clay may be, for example, kaolin.

[0041] Silicone elastomer.

[0042] If included, the amount of silicone elastomer present in the composition will typically be at least 0.5 wt%, or at least 0.75 wt%, or at least 1 wt% of the composition. It will typically be at most 1 wt%, or at most 1.5 wt%, or at most 2 wt% of the composition.

[0043] The silicone elastomer should be an oil-control silicone polymer. The silicone elastomer may be a non-emulsified silicone elastomer. As used herein, the term "non-emulsified" means an organopolysiloxane elastomer that does not contain hydrophilic chains, particularly polyalkylene oxides (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or polyglycerol units. Thus, according to some embodiments, the composition may contain a silicone elastomer that does not contain polyalkylene oxide units and polyglycerol units.

[0044] Non-limiting non-emulsified elastomers are described in U.S. Patent No. 8,637,057, the disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety, and those sold by Shin-Etsu under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44, by Dow Corning under the names DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, DC 9505 and DC 9506, and by General Electric under the name SFE 839.

[0045] The silicone elastomer can be in the form of a gel or a powder.

[0046] In some embodiments, the silicone elastomer can be delivered in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane contained in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are generally non-spherical particles. Non-limiting examples of silicone elastomers useful in the present invention are polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer gels (blends of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymers in a solvent) having viscosity values of about 150 and to about 700 mm 2 / s, about 200 to about 650 mm 2 / s and about 300 to about 600 mm 2 / s, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.

[0047] Non-limiting examples of silicone elastomer gels include DC EL-8040ID (INCI name: isododecane (and) polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer) and DC EL-9140DM (INCI name: polydimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer) provided by Dow Corning.

[0048] Without wishing to be bound by any particular theory, it is believed that the silicone elastomer thickens the composition, increases the buffering (sponge) effect and / or improves the application properties of the cosmetic composition. In addition, it provides a very soft feel and an oil control effect after application.

[0049] UV filter system

[0050] The cosmetic composition can include a UV filter system which, in some embodiments, consists of an organic hydrophobic UV filter, an organic water-soluble UV filter and an inorganic UV filter. Such UV filters are effective in the UVA and / or / UVB wavelength ranges.

[0051] Organic hydrophobic UV filter.

[0052] The organic hydrophobic UV filter can consist of octyl salicylate (also known as ethylhexyl salicylate). The cosmetic composition can be free of other organic hydrophobic UV filters. The organic hydrophobic UV filter will typically be present in an amount of not more than 5% by weight of the composition. The organic hydrophobic UV filter will typically be present in an amount of 3% to 5% by weight of the composition.

[0053] Organic water-soluble UV filter.

[0054] The organic water-soluble UV filter can consist of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (PBSA). The cosmetic composition can be free of other organic water-soluble UV filters. The organic water-soluble UV filter will typically be present in an amount of not more than 4% by weight of the composition. The organic hydrophobic UV filter will typically be present in an amount of 2% to 4% by weight of the composition. The ratio of the amount of the organic hydrophobic UV filter to the amount of the water-soluble UV filter will typically be 1.25:1 to 1.75:1.

[0055] Inorganic UV filter.

[0056] The inorganic UV filter can consist of UV-grade titanium dioxide, and the cosmetic composition can be free of other inorganic UV filters. "UV-grade" titanium dioxide typically has a relatively small particle size - typically having an average particle size of 250 nm or less, including 200 nm or less, and / or 150 nm or less. In some cases, the average particle size is about 130 nm.

[0057] The inorganic UV filter will typically be present in an amount less than 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the inorganic UV filter can be present in an amount less than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the inorganic UV filter can be present in an amount less than the amount of the organic hydrophobic UV filter or the organic water-soluble UV filter.

[0058] In some embodiments, the inorganic UV filter can be present in an amount less than 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the inorganic UV filter can be present in an amount less than 3% by weight of the composition.

[0059] Colorant

[0060] The cosmetic composition can contain a colorant. In some embodiments, the colorant can be present in an amount less than 30% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the colorant can be present in an amount less than 20% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the colorant can be present in an amount of at least 10% by weight of the composition.

[0061] One or more colorants may be selected from organic and / or inorganic colorants, in particular pigments or nacre such as are conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, fat-soluble or water-soluble colorants, materials having a particular optical effect, and mixtures thereof. Pigments.

[0062] The colorant may comprise or consist of one or more pigments. Each pigment is preferably coated. In some embodiments, the one or more pigments include pigment-grade titanium dioxide. "Pigment-grade" titanium dioxide generally has a larger particle size than UV-grade titanium dioxide (which typically has an average particle size of 400 nm or greater), including 500 nm or greater, and / or 600 nm or greater.

[0063] The term "pigment" is to be understood to mean white or colored, inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in aqueous solution and are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film.

[0064] Relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the pigment may be present in a proportion of from 0.1% to 30% by weight, such as from 1% to 30% by weight, or from 5% to 20% by weight.

[0065] As inorganic pigments that may be used, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, iron blue, manganese violet, ultramarine and chromium hydrate.

[0066] The pigment may also be a pigment having a structure that may be of the sericite / iron oxide brown / titanium dioxide / silica type, for example. Such a pigment is sold, for example, by Chemicals and Catalysts under the numbers Coverleaf NS or JS and has a contrast ratio of about 30.

[0067] The colorant may also contain a pigment having a structure that may be of the silica microsphere type containing iron oxide, for example. An example of a pigment having this structure is sold by Miyoshi under the number PC BallPC-LL-100P and consists of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

[0068] Among the organic pigments that may be used, mention may be made of carbon black, D&C pigments, lakes based on carmine, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum, or diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) described in documents EP-A-542 669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A-787 731 and WO-A-96 / 08537.

[0069] In some embodiments, the coating can include aluminum oxide, silica, aluminum hydroxide, or pigment grade titanium dioxide, and the hydrocarbon-based emulsifier disclosed herein. In some embodiments, the coating can be present in a total amount of less than 1 wt% of the composition.

[0070] When iron oxide is present, such iron oxide (i.e., excluding the coating) is present in a total amount of not more than 5 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, such iron oxide (excluding the coating) is present in a total amount of not more than 3 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, such iron oxide (excluding the coating) is present in a total amount of not more than 2 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, such iron oxide (excluding the coating) is present in a total amount of 1 wt% to 1.5 wt% of the composition.

[0071] When pigment grade titanium dioxide is present, such pigment grade titanium dioxide (i.e., excluding the coating) can be present in a total amount of not more than 25 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, such pigment grade titanium dioxide (excluding the coating) can be present in a total amount of not more than 20 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, such pigment grade titanium dioxide (excluding the coating) can be present in a total amount of 10 wt% to 20 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, such pigment grade titanium dioxide (excluding the coating) can be present in a total amount of 15 wt% to 20 wt% of the composition.

[0072] Mother-of-pearl.

[0073] The colorant can also include one or more mother-of-pearl. The term "mother-of-pearl" should be understood to mean any shaped iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles, which are particularly produced or synthesized by certain mollusks in their shells and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

[0074] Mother-of-pearl can be selected from pearlescent pigments. Such pigments can include natural or synthetic mica (fluorphlogopite). Non-limiting examples of the pearlescent pigments of the present invention include white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide, mica coated with titanium dioxide, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxychloride; colored pearlescent pigments such as mica titania with iron oxide, mica titania with iron blue, chromium oxide, etc., mica titania with the above types of organic pigments and those based on bismuth oxychloride and mixtures thereof. This can also include mica particles with at least two consecutive layers of metal oxides and / or organic colorants superimposed on their surfaces. If pearlescent pigments are present, they are typically present in a total amount of not more than 5 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, the pearlescent pigments are present in a total amount of not more than 3 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, the pearlescent pigments are present in a total amount of not more than 2 wt% of the composition.

[0075] Among the nacre available on the market, mention may be made of Timica nacre, Flamenco nacre and Duochrome nacre (based on mica), sold by Engelhard Corporation, Timiron nacre sold by Merck KGaA, Prestige nacre based on mica sold by Eckart GmbH, and Sunshine nacre based on synthetic mica sold by Sun Chemical Corporation.

[0076] The nacre may more particularly have a color or iridescence of yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper.

[0077] As an illustration of nacre that can be used in the context of the present disclosure, mention may be made in particular of the golden nacre sold in particular by Engelhard under the names Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacre sold in particular by Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacre sold in particular by Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacre sold in particular by Engelhard under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the copper-colored iridescent nacre sold by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the red iridescent nacre sold by Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the yellow iridescent nacre sold by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the golden iridescent red nacre sold by Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacre sold by Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the golden iridescent black nacre sold by Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240AB (Timica), the blue nacre sold by Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), the silver iridescent white nacre sold by Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and the green-gold and pink-orange nacre sold by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

[0078] Dyes.

[0079] The colorant may also include water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. Fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, and quinoline yellow. Water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.

[0080] Materials with special optical effects.

[0081] The colorant may also include at least one material having a specific optical effect. This effect is different from a simple, conventional hue effect, i.e., the uniform and stable effect produced by conventional colorants (such as monochromatic pigments). For the purposes of the present disclosure, the term "stable" means the absence of an effect where the color changes with the viewing angle or in response to a temperature change. For example, the material may be selected from particles having a metallic flash, goniochromatic colorants, diffraction pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and fibers, particularly interference-type fibers. Of course, these different materials may be combined to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect.

[0082] The metallic flash particles that can be used in the present disclosure are particularly selected from: (i) particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; (ii) particles comprising a single substance or multiple substances, an organic or inorganic matrix (which is at least partially coated with at least one metallic flash layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative), and (iii) mixtures of such particles. The term "metal derivative" means a compound derived from a metal, particularly oxides, fluorides, chlorides, and sulfides.

[0083] Non-limiting examples of metals that may be present in such particles include Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof, such as Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (such as bronze and brass).

[0084] As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold by Siberline under the name STARBRITE 1200 and those sold by Eckart under the name Those for sale. Metal powders of copper or alloy mixtures can also be mentioned, such as No. 2844 sold by Radium Bronze; metallic pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, for example those sold by Eckart under the name Rotosafe 700, silica-coated aluminum particles sold by Eckart under the name Visionaire Bright Silver; and metal alloy particles, such as silica-coated bronze (copper and zinc alloy) sold by Eckart under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold. The particles under discussion can also be particles containing a glass matrix, such as those sold by Nippon Sheet Glass under the name Microglass Metashine.

[0085] The visual flash colorants can be selected from, for example, multilayer interference structures and liquid crystal colorants.

[0086] Examples of symmetric multilayer interference structures that can be used in the compositions prepared according to the present disclosure are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Al, pigments having this structure are sold by Dupont de Nemours; Cr / MgF2 / Al / MgF2 / Cr, pigments having this structure are sold by Flex under the name Chromaflair; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures are sold by BASF under the name Sicopearl; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures are sold by Merck (Darmstadt) under the name Xirona. For example, these pigments can be pigments with a silica / titanium oxide / tin oxide structure sold by Merck under the name Xirona Magic, pigments with a silica / brown iron oxide structure sold by Merck under the name Xirona Indian Summer, and pigments with a silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structure sold by Merck under the name Xirona Carribean Blue. Also mention may be made of the Infinite Colors pigments from Shiseido. Depending on the thickness and nature of each layer, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 structure, for a SiO2 layer of 320 to 350 nm, the color changes from green-gold to red-gray; for a SiO2 layer of 380 to 400 nm, the color changes from red to gold; for a SiO2 layer of 410 to 420 nm, the color changes from purple to green; for a SiO2 layer of 430 to 440 nm, the color changes from copper to red.

[0087] Examples of pigments having a polymer multilayer structure that may be mentioned are those sold by 3M under the name ColorGlitter.

[0088] Examples of liquid crystal visual flash particles that can be used include those sold by Chenix, and products sold by Wacker under the name HC.

[0089] Hydrocarbyl oil .

[0090] The cosmetic composition may include a hydrocarbon-based oil. In certain embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in a total amount of no more than 15% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in a total amount of no more than 12% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in a total amount between 5% and 15% by weight. In certain embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in a total amount between 7% and 12% by weight.

[0091] The term "oil" means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0092] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil that mainly contains hydrogen and carbon atoms and may contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and / or phosphorus atoms. In certain embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil can be straight or branched. In certain embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil is a hydrocarbon. Representative examples of hydrocarbon-based oils include oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C8-C16 alkanes (also referred to as isoparaffins), for example isododecane (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane) and isohexadecane.

[0093] In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oils may be non-polar (thus, formed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms).

[0094] In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may contain from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0095] In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may include hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides composed of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, which chains may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially triglycerides of heptanoic acid or caprylic acid, or alternatively wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, almond oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, pumpkin seed oil, courgette oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, nut oil, passionflower oil and musk rose; shea butter; or caprylic / capric triglycerides, for example, those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or by Dynamit Nobel. Nobel) under the name Miglyol and Those that are sold,

[0096] In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon oil may include synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms.

[0097] In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon oil may include straight-chain or branched-chain hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as squalane and liquid paraffin, and mixtures thereof.

[0098] In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon oil may include synthetic esters, such as oils of the formula R 1 COOR 2 wherein R 1 represents a straight-chain or branched-chain fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon group chain, particularly a branched-chain, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R 1 +R 2 ≥10, for example, duck sebaceous gland oil (cetyloctanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C 12 to C 15 alkyl esters, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, alkyl or polyalkyl heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl maleate and 2-octyldodecyl lactate; and polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters. Other synthetic esters may include, for example, butyloctyl salicylate.

[0099] In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon oil may include fatty alcohols having branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-based chains containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms that are liquid at room temperature, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol.

[0100] In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon oil may include C 12 -C 22 fatty acid chains, such as those selected from stearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, etc., and mixtures thereof. Preferably, these fatty acid chains are hydrogenated.

[0101] The hydrocarbon oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0102] The term "volatile" oil refers to an oil that is capable of evaporating in less than one hour when in contact with the skin or keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly in the range of 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 -3to 300 mmHg). The term "non-volatile" oil refers to an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibers for at least several hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and which particularly has a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0103] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise no more than 10% by weight of C8-C16 alkanes and no more than 5% by weight of synthetic esters.

[0104] Hydrocarbyl emulsifier .

[0105] The composition may comprise one or more hydrocarbon-based emulsifiers. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise two or more hydrocarbon-based emulsifiers. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise three or more hydrocarbon-based emulsifiers. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise four or more hydrocarbon-based emulsifiers.

[0106] The hydrocarbon-based emulsifier is typically present in a total amount of no more than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based emulsifier may be present in a total amount of no more than 2.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based emulsifier may be present in a total amount of no more than 2% by weight of the composition. The hydrocarbon-based emulsifier is typically present in a total amount of no less than 1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based emulsifier may be present in an amount of 1.5% to 2.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based emulsifier may be present in an amount of 1% to 2% by weight of the composition.

[0107] The hydrocarbon-based emulsifier may include oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated ethers of fatty alcohols (especially C8-C 24 and preferably C 12 -C 18 alcohols) which may contain from 20 to 1000 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups, such as oxyethylated stearyl alcohol ether containing 20 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name Steareth-20) such as Brij78 sold by Uniqema, oxyethylated cetearyl alcohol ether containing 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name Ceteareth-30) and oxyethylated ether of a C 12 -C 15 mixture of fatty alcohols (CTFA name C12-15Pareth-7) (which is sold by Shell Chemicals under the name Neodol . If oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated ethers are present, they are typically present in a total amount of no more than 0.01%, 0.1% or 0.5% by weight of the composition.

[0108] The hydrocarbon emulsifier may include an amino acid surfactant. Non-limiting examples of amino acid surfactants are salts of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, and any mixture thereof, and specifically dipotassium octanoyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium octanoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium octanoyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium octanoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium oleoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methyl β-alaninate, lauroyl β-alaninate, lauroyl methyl β-alaninate, myristoyl β-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl β-alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl methyl β-alaninate, sodium myristoyl methyl β-alaninate, sodium palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium hexanoyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium hexanoyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium hexanoyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium hexanoyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof. If an amino acid surfactant is present, it typically is present in a total amount of not more than 0.75 wt%, 1 wt%, or 1.5 wt% of the composition.

[0109] The hydrocarbon emulsifier may include polyol alkyl esters. Non-limiting examples of polyol alkyl esters include glycerol and / or sorbitan esters, such as polyglycerol-3 diisostearate sold by Cognis under the name Lameform TGI; polyglycerol-4 isostearate, such as the product sold by Goldschmidt under the name Isolan GI 34; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold by ICI under the name Arlacel 987; sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold by ICI under the name Arlacel 986; and mixtures thereof. If polyol alkyl esters are present, they typically are present in a total amount of not more than 1 wt%, 1.5 wt%, or 2 wt% of the composition.

[0110] Water.

[0111] The cosmetic composition may contain water. The water will typically be present in an amount of not more than 30% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the water may be present in an amount of not more than 25% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the water may be present in an amount of not more than 20% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the water may be present in an amount of not less than 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the water may be present in an amount of 15% to 25% by weight of the composition. Other components .

[0112]

[0111] The cosmetic composition may contain one or more other components, including polyols, non-volatile silicone oils, vitamins, preservatives, silicone resins, thickeners, pH regulators or buffers, electrolytes, flavonoids, synthetic peptides and / or amino acids or amino acid derivatives.

[0113] Polyol.

[0114] In some embodiments, the composition may contain polyols. In some embodiments, the polyol may be a hydrocarbyl polyol. In some embodiments, the polyol may be present in a total amount of not more than 15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the polyol may be present in a total amount of not more than 12% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the polyol may be present in a total amount of not more than 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the polyol may be present in a total amount of less than 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the polyol may be present in a total amount between 5% and 9% by weight.

[0115]

[0114] In some embodiments, the composition may contain multiple polyols present in a total amount greater than 1% by weight of the composition and multiple polyols present in a total amount less than 0.5% by weight of the composition.

[0116] The term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule containing at least two free hydroxyl groups. Preferably, the polyol may be in liquid form at room temperature.

[0117]

[0115] In various embodiments, the polyols suitable for use in the present invention may be straight-chain, branched-chain or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl-type compounds having at least two -OH functional groups, particularly at least three -OH functional groups, and more particularly at least four -OH functional groups on each alkyl chain.

[0118] In some embodiments, the polyol may contain 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably 2 to 16 carbon atoms, advantageously 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more advantageously 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0119] In some embodiments, the polyol can be polyethylene glycol.

[0120] In some embodiments, the polyol can be a polyhydric alcohol, preferably a C2-C8 and more preferably a C3-C6 polyhydric alcohol. Non-limiting examples thereof include glycerol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, isopentanediol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, and diglycerol, ethylhexylglycerol, octanediol, and mixtures thereof, glycerol and its derivatives, polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers (e.g., diglycerol and polyethylene glycol), glycol ethers (especially containing 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as (C1-C4) alkyl ethers of monopropylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or tripropylene glycol, (C1-C4) alkyl ethers of monoethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0121] Non-volatile silicone oil.

[0122] In some embodiments, the composition can comprise a non-volatile silicone oil. The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom and especially containing Si-O groups.

[0123] In some embodiments, the composition can comprise a plurality of non-volatile silicone oils. In some embodiments, the composition can comprise only two non-volatile silicone oils. In some embodiments, the non-volatile silicone oil can be present in a total amount of not more than 20% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the first non-volatile silicone oil can be present in a total amount of not less than 10% by weight of the composition (such as, for example, PDMS), and the second non-volatile silicone oil (such as, for example, an alkylpolydimethylsiloxane copolymer) can be present in a total amount of not more than 5% by weight of the composition.

[0124] In some embodiments, the amount of the hydrocarbon oil plus the amount of the non-volatile silicone oil can be less than 30% by weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition can be free of volatile silicone oil.

[0125] The non-volatile silicone oil can be a non-phenyl silicone oil. The term "non-phenyl silicone oil" means a silicone oil without any phenyl substituents. Representative examples of these non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils that can be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxane; alkylpolydimethylsiloxane; vinylmethylpolymethylsiloxane; and silicones modified with aliphatic groups and / or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol, and / or amine groups.

[0126] In some embodiments, the alkylpolydimethylsiloxane can be an alkylpolydimethylsiloxane copolymer, such as lauryl PEG / PPG-18 / 18 polymethylsiloxane (which is more specifically an alkoxy derivative of lauryl polymethylsiloxane, which on average contains 18 moles of ethylene oxide and 18 moles of propylene oxide and is sold by Dow Corning under the name "DowCorning 5200 Formulation Aid"); cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 polydimethylsiloxane (which is more specifically a copolymer of cetyl polydimethylsiloxane and an alkoxy derivative of polydimethylsiloxane (which on average contains 10 moles of ethylene oxide and 1 mole of propylene oxide)), such as the product sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Abil EM 90 and a mixture of cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 polydimethylsiloxane, polyglyceryl isostearate (4 moles), and hexyl laurate sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the name ABIL WE 09. Vitamins.

[0127] In some embodiments, the composition can comprise vitamins. In some embodiments, the composition can comprise multiple vitamins. Such vitamins include materials having vitamin activity. In some embodiments, the vitamins can be present in a total amount of no more than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vitamins can be present in a total amount of no more than 2.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vitamins can be present in a total amount of no less than 0.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vitamins can be present in a total amount of no less than 1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vitamins can be present in a total amount of 2% to 2.5% by weight of the composition.

[0128] Non-limiting examples of such vitamins include vitamin K, vitamin B8, vitamin B12, thiamine riboflavin, nicotinamide (also known as niacinamide), pantothenic acid, pyridoxine and derivatives, biotin (vitamin B7), folic acid, cyanocobalamin, and ascorbic acid. Vitamins include vitamin derivatives. For example, ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives, especially its phosphate derivatives such as the potassium salt of di-α-tocopherol diascorbic acid phosphate (sold by Senju Pharmaceutical under the number Sepivital EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Roche under the number Stay-C 50) and its esters such as ascorbyl acetate, palmitate, and propionate; retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives, especially its esters such as retinol acetate, palmitate, and propionate; and pantothenic acid (vitamin B) and its derivatives such as pantolactone and D-panthenol. Preservatives.

[0129] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise a preservative. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise multiple preservatives. In some embodiments, the preservative may be present in an amount not exceeding 1.5 wt% of the composition.

[0130] Non-limiting examples of preservatives include phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc.), sodium benzoate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), potassium sorbate, and / or grapefruit seed extract or combinations thereof. More than one preservative may be included in the composition. Other preservatives known in the cosmetic industry include salicylic acid, DMDM hydantoin, formaldehyde, chlorphenesin, triclosan, chlorhexidine digluconate, imidazolidinyl urea, and diazolidinyl urea. Any one or all of these may be used alone or in combination with each other.

[0131] Silicone resin.

[0132] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone resin. In some embodiments, the composition comprises only a single silicone resin. The term "resin" refers to a compound having a three-dimensional structure. Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

[0133] In some embodiments, the silicone resin may be present in a total amount not exceeding 3 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, the silicone resin may be present in a total amount not exceeding 2 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, the silicone resin may be present in a total amount of 1.5 wt% to 2.5 wt% of the composition.

[0134] The classification of silicone resins (also known as siloxane resins or silicones) is known by the name "MDTQ", and the resin is described according to the various siloxane monomer units contained therein, and each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizes a unit type.

[0135] The letter "M" represents a monofunctional unit having the formula R1R2R3SiO 1 / 2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to a single oxygen atom in the polymer containing the unit.

[0136] The letter "D" represents a difunctional unit R1R2SiO 2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.

[0137] The letter "T" represents a unit having the formula R1SiO 3 / 2trifunctional units. Such resins are described, for example, in "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering", Volume 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), pages 265-270, and U.S. Patent Nos. 2,676,182, 3,627,851, 3,772,247, 5,248,739 or U.S. Patent Nos. 5,082,706, 5,319,040, 5,302,685 and 4,935,484.

[0138] In the previously defined M, D, T modes, Ri, namely R1, R2 and R3, are the same or different and represent a hydrocarbon group (especially an alkyl group) having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, phenyl, phenylalkyl or hydroxyl.

[0139] Finally, the letter "Q" represents a tetrafunctional unit SiO 4 / 2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, and these oxygen atoms are bonded to the rest of the polymer.

[0140] Various silicone resins with different properties can be obtained from these different units, and the properties of these polymers vary according to the type of monomer (or unit), the type and number of Ri groups, the polymer chain length, the degree of branching and the size of the pendant chain.

[0141] In some embodiments, the silicone resin can be of the MQ type, T type or MQT type.

[0142] MQ resin:

[0143] For MQ-type silicone resins, mention may be made of alkylsiloxane silicates (MQ units) having the formula [(R1)3SiO 1 / 2 x (SiO 4 / 2 ) y where x and y are integers in the range of 50 to 80, and such that the R1 group is a group as defined above, and preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, or hydroxyl, preferably methyl.

[0144] An MQ resin can be trimethylsiloxysilicate. As examples of solid silicone resins of the MQ type of trimethylsiloxysilicate type, mention may be made of those sold by General Electric Company under the number SR1000, by Wacker Company under the number TMS 803, by Shin-Etsu Company under the name "KF-7312J", by Dow Corning Company under the names "DC 749", "DC 593". ​

[0145] As with silicone resins containing an MQ silanoxy silicate pattern, phenylalkyl silanoxy silicate resins such as phenylpropyl dimethyl silanoxy silicate (Silshine 151 sold by General Electric Company) can also be mentioned. The preparation of such resins is particularly described in U.S. Patent No. 5,817,302.

[0146] T resin:

[0147] As an example of a silicone resin of the T type, polyhedral oligomeric silsesquioxanes having the formula (RSiO 3 / 2 ) x (T unit) can be mentioned, where x is greater than 100 and such that the R group is an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and the polyhedral oligomeric silsesquioxane can also contain Si-OH end groups.

[0148] Poly(methylsilsesquioxane) can also be mentioned, which is a polyhedral oligomeric silsesquioxane in which no methyl group is replaced by another group. Such poly(methylsilsesquioxane) is described, for example, in the literature U.S. Patent No. 5,246,694.

[0149] Preferably, poly(methylsilsesquioxane) resin can be used, where R is methyl, such as those sold by Wacker under the number Resin MK (such as Belsil PMS MK: a polymer containing CH3SiO3 / 2 repeating units (T units), which can also contain up to 1 wt% of (CH3)2SiO2 / 2 units (D units) and has an average molecular weight of about 10,000 g / mol), or those sold by Shin-Etsu under the numbers KR-220L (which consists of T units having the formula CH3SiO 3 / 2 and has Si-OH (silanol) end groups), KR-242A (which contains 98% T units and 2% D dimethyl units and has Si-OH terminal units), or KR-251 (which contains 88% T units and 12% D dimethyl units and has Si-OH end groups).

[0150] MQT resin:

[0151] As resins containing an MQT pattern, those mentioned in the literature U.S. Patent No. 5,110,890 are known. A preferred form of the MQT type resin is the MQT-propyl resin (also called MQTPr). Such resins that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention are in particular those described and prepared in application US 8,124,710 (the content of which is incorporated herein by reference).

[0152] The MQ-T-propyl resin preferably contains the following units: (i) (R13SiO 1 / 2 ) a; (ii) (R22SiO 2 / 2 ) b ; (iii) (R3SiO 3 / 2 ) c ; and (iv) (SiO4 / 2) d , where R1, R2 and R3 are independently a hydrocarbyl group (especially an alkyl group) having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, phenyl, phenylalkyl or hydroxyl, and preferably an alkyl group or phenyl having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, a, b, c and d are mole fractions, a is between 0.05 and 0.5, b is between 0 and 0.3, c is greater than 0, d is between 0.05 and 0.6, a + b + c + d = 1, provided that more than 40 mole% of the R3 groups of the silicone resin are propyl groups.

[0153] Preferably, the silicone resin comprises the following units: (i) (R13SiO 1 / 2 ) a ; (iii) (R3SiO 3 / 2 ) c ; and (iv) (SiO4 / 2) d , where R1 and R3 are independently an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, R1 is preferably methyl, and R3 is preferably propyl, a is between 0.05 and 0.5, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, c is greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, d is between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6, or between 0.2 and 0.55, a + c + d = 1, and a, c and d are mole fractions, provided that more than 40 mole% of the R3 groups of the silicone resin are propyl groups.

[0154] The silicone resin that can be used according to the present invention can be obtained by a process including the following reactions: A) an MQ resin that comprises at least 80 mole% of the units (R13SiO 1 / 2 ) a and (SiO4 / 2) d , R1 is an alkyl group, aryl group, methanol group or amino group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, a and d are greater than zero, where the a / d ratio is between 0.5 and 1.5;

[0155] and

[0156] B) a propyl T resin that comprises at least 80 mole% of the units (R3SiO 3 / 2 ) c , R3 is an alkyl group, aryl group, methanol group or amino group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, c is greater than zero, provided that at least 40 mole% of the R3 groups are propyl groups, where the A / B mass ratio is included between 95:5 and 15:85, preferably the A / B mass ratio is 30:70.

[0157] Advantageously, the A / B mass ratio is between 95:5 and 15:85. Preferably, the A / B ratio is less than or equal to 70:30. These preferred ratios have proven to allow for comfortable deposits.

[0158] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone resin of the MQ type as described above.

[0159] In a preferred embodiment, the silicone resin is a silanoxysilicate resin, more preferably a trimethylsilanoxysilicate resin.

[0160] Thickening agent.

[0161] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise a thickening agent. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise a plurality of thickening agents. In some embodiments, the thickening agent may be present in an amount less than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of a thickening agent. In a more preferred embodiment, the composition is free of a thickening agent.

[0162] The thickening agent may be selected from organic and inorganic thickening agents. Non-limiting examples of organic thickening agents include: (i) associative thickening agents; (ii) crosslinked acrylic homopolymers; (iii) crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and acrylic (C1-C6) alkyl esters; (iv) nonionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated ester monomer and at least one ethylenically unsaturated amide monomer; and (v) ammonium acrylate homopolymers and copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide. As used herein, the expression "associative thickening agent" means an amphiphilic thickening agent comprising both hydrophilic and hydrophobic units (e.g., comprising at least one C8-C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit).

[0163] pH regulator or buffer.

[0164] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise a pH regulator and / or a buffer.

[0165] pH regulators include, but are not limited to, sodium metasilicate, silicate compounds, citric acid, ascorbic acid, carbonate compounds, and sodium hydroxide.

[0166] Non-limiting examples of buffers include acetate buffers (e.g., acetic acid + sodium acetate), phosphate buffers (e.g., sodium dihydrogen phosphate + disodium hydrogen phosphate), citrate buffers (e.g., citric acid + sodium citrate), borate buffers (e.g., boric acid + sodium borate), tartrate buffers (e.g., tartaric acid + disodium tartrate dihydrate), Tris buffers (e.g., tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane), or Hepes buffers (4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1-piperazineethanesulfonic acid).

[0167] In some embodiments, the thickening agent may be present in an amount less than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition is substantially free of both a pH regulator and a buffer. In some embodiments, the pH regulator and the buffer may be present in a total amount of 0.001% to 0.5% by weight of the composition.

[0168] Electrolyte.

[0169] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise an electrolyte. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise a plurality of electrolytes. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise only a single electrolyte. The electrolyte may be present in a total amount not exceeding 2% by weight, not exceeding 1.5% by weight, or not exceeding 1% by weight of the composition. At least one electrolyte present in the composition may be selected from, for example, alkali metal salts such as sodium chloride, potassium chloride, or potassium sulfate.

[0170] Flavonoid.

[0171] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise a flavonoid. The flavonoid may be present in a total amount less than 0.1% by weight, less than 0.01% by weight, less than 0.001% by weight, or less than 0.0001% by weight of the composition.

[0172] The flavonoid may be a flavanone (a derivative of 2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one), and such flavanones include: butein, eriodictyol, hesperetin, hesperidin, homoeriodictyol, isosakuranetin, naringenin, naringin, coniferyl alcohol, poncirin, sakuranetin, sakuranin, and 7-O-methyleriodictyol (Sterubin). The flavonoid may be a flavanol (a derivative of 3-hydroxy-2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one); such flavanols include: taxifolin, aromadedrin, Chrysandroside A, Chrysandroside B, xeractinol, astilbin, and fustin. The flavonoid may be a flavone (a derivative of 2-phenylchromen-4-one); such flavones include: apigenin, luteolin, nobiletin, chrysin, baicalein, scutellarin, wogonin, synthetic flavones: diosmin and flavoxate. The flavonoid may be a flavonol (a derivative of 3-hydroxy-2-phenylchromen-4-one); such flavonols include: 3-hydroxyflavone, rhododendrin, fisetin, galangin, gossypetin, kaempferide, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, morin, myricetin, natsudaidain, pachypodol, quercetin, rhamnazin, rhamnetin, rhododendrin, hyperoside, isoquercitrin, kaempferol glycoside, myricitrin, quercitrin, robinin, rutin, spiraeoside, xylorhamnin, amurensin, icariin, and troxerutin.

[0173] Synthetic peptide.

[0174] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise a synthetic peptide. The synthetic peptide may be present in a total amount of less than 0.1 wt%, less than 0.01 wt%, less than 0.001 wt%, or less than 0.0001 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, such synthetic peptides include iamin, biopeptide CL, or various palmitoyl peptides such as palmitoyl tripeptide-1 or palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. Amino acids or amino acid derivatives.

[0175] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise an amino acid or an amino acid derivative. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise an amino acid or an amino acid derivative. The amino acid or amino acid derivative may be present in a total amount of less than 0.5 wt% or less than 0.1 wt% of the composition.

[0176] For example, one amino acid that can be used is adenosine. Examples of adenosine derivatives that can be specifically mentioned are non-phosphorylated adenosine derivatives, such as: 2'-deoxyadenosine; 2',3'-isopropylidene adenosine; toyocamycin; 1-methyladenosine; N6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide; 6-methylthiopurine riboside; or 6-chloropurine riboside. Other adenosine derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists, which include phenylisopropyl-adenosine (“PIA”), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N6-phenylethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxy-ethyl)phenylethyl-amino-5'-N-ethylcarboxamidoadenosine (CGS-21680), N-ethylcarboxamidoadenosine (NECA), 5'(N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, DPMA (PD 129,944), and adenosider. Other adenosine derivatives include compounds that increase intracellular adenosine concentration, such as erythro-9-(2-hydroxy-3-nonyl)adenine (“EHNA”) or tubercidin. Still more adenosine derivatives include salts and alkyl esters.

[0177] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise an oil-control filler, a colorant, a hydrocarbon oil, a hydrocarbon emulsifier, water, and a UV filter system, which may optionally comprise a polyol, a non-volatile silicone oil, a vitamin, a preservative, a silicone resin, a thickener, a pH regulator or buffer, an electrolyte, a flavonoid, a synthetic peptide, and / or an amino acid or amino acid derivative, may be free of volatile silicone oil, and may be substantially free of all other materials.

[0178] Antioxidant.

[0179] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise an antioxidant. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise a plurality of antioxidants. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise only a single antioxidant. The antioxidant may be present in a total amount of less than 0.5 wt% or less than 0.2 wt% of the composition.

[0180] Non-limiting examples of antioxidants include polyphenols, tannic acid, epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, pentaerythritol tetra-di-tert-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate, rosemary extract, lentil (Lens culenta) seed extract, olive leaf extract, green tea, resveratrol and its compounds, pycnogenol, ergothioneine, N-acetylcysteine, idebenone, plant extracts (such as PRONALEN BIOPROTECT from Provital) TM extract), coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, SOD, phytantriol, lignans, melatonin, pyruvate, and glutathione.

[0181] Active material.

[0182] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise a certain active material. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise a plurality of active materials. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise only a single active material. The active material may be present in a total amount of less than 0.5 wt% or less than 0.25 wt% of the composition.

[0183] In some embodiments, the active material may include derivatives of hyaluronic acid, such as sodium hyaluronate. In some embodiments, the derivatives of hyaluronic acid may be present in a total amount of less than 0.2 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, the derivatives of hyaluronic acid may be present in a total amount of not more than 0.1 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, the derivatives of hyaluronic acid may be present in a total amount of 0.05 wt% to 0.15 wt% of the composition.

[0184] In some embodiments, the active material may include chelating agents. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise a plurality of chelating agents. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise only a single chelating agent. In some embodiments, the chelating agent may be present in a total amount of less than 0.2 wt% of the composition. In some embodiments, the chelating agent may be present in a total amount of 0.05 wt% to 0.15 wt% of the composition.

[0185] Non-limiting examples of chelating agents include aminocarboxylic acids (i.e., acids containing at least one carboxylic acid group), such as compounds having the following INCI names: phytic acid, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), and trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediamine-N,N'-dipentanedioic acid (EDDG), glycineamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(o-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA),

[0186] methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid, and glyceriminodiacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317 542 and EP-A-399 133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid, and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516 102), β-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid, and aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509 382), iminodisuccinic acid-based chelating agents (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509 382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid (such as the compound sold by Bayer under the number Bayhibit AM), tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) (such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from AkzoNobel), mono- or polyphosphonic acid-based chelating agents (such as compounds having the following INCI names: diethylenetriamine penta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-diphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP)), polyphosphoric acid-based chelating agents (such as compounds having the following INCI names: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid, its salts and derivatives), and mixtures thereof.

[0187] In some embodiments, the active material can be an active ester or a derivative thereof. The active ester or derivative can be present in a total amount of less than 0.1 wt%, less than 0.01 wt%, less than 0.001 wt%, or less than 0.0001 wt% of the composition. Active esters are well known in peptide synthesis and refer to certain esters that readily react with the amine of an amino acid under conditions commonly used in peptide synthesis. A common active ester is N-hydroxysuccinimide, and a commonly used form of this active ester is the N-hydroxysuccinimide (NHS) ester.

[0188] In some embodiments, the composition can comprise an oil-control filler, a colorant, a hydrocarbon oil, a hydrocarbon emulsifier, water, and a UV filter system, which can optionally comprise a polyol, a non-volatile silicone oil, a vitamin, a preservative, a silicone resin, a thickening agent, a pH regulator or buffer, and an electrolyte, can be free of volatile silicone oil, and can be substantially free of all other materials.

[0189] In some embodiments, the composition can comprise an oil-control filler, a colorant, a hydrocarbon oil, a hydrocarbon emulsifier, water, and a UV filter system, which can optionally comprise a polyol, a non-volatile silicone oil, a vitamin, a preservative, a silicone resin, a thickening agent, a pH regulator or buffer, an electrolyte, a flavonoid, a synthetic peptide, an antioxidant, an active material, and / or an amino acid or amino acid derivative, can be free of volatile silicone oil, and can be substantially free of all other materials.

[0190] Examples

[0191] The examples of the present invention as shown in Table 1 below can be produced by: first mixing an oil, oil-soluble components, and an inorganic UV filter in a container, then mixing water and water-soluble components in a separate container, then combining the two phases while homogenizing, and then adding an oil-control filler and a colorant.

[0192] Table 1

[0193] Materials wt% (active substance basis) Silica aerogel 0.5-1％ Amorphous silica 3-5％ Modified starch 1-2％ Clay (kaolin) <0.01％ Silicone elastomer 1-2％ Octyl salicylate 4-5％ Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 3-4％ UV-grade titanium dioxide 2-3％ Coated iron oxide pigment 1-2％ Pigment-grade titanium dioxide 15-20％ Pearlescent pigment 1-3％ Hydrocarbyl oil (C8-C16 alkane) 6-10％ Hydrocarbyl oil (other synthetic esters) 2-4％ Hydrocarbyl emulsifier 1.5-2.5％ Water 15-20％ Polyol 5-9％ Non-volatile silicone oil (polydimethylsiloxane) 15-20％ Non-volatile silicone oil (alkyl polydimethylsiloxane copolymer) 3-5％ Vitamin 1-3％ Preservative 0.5-1.5％ MQ resin 1-2％ pH regulator or buffer 0.1-0.5％ Electrolyte 0.5-1％ Active material 0.1-0.3％ Antioxidant 0.1-0.3％ Amino acid or amino acid derivative 0.0001-0.1％ Flavonoid <0.0001％ Synthetic peptide <0.0001％

[0194] The above formulations can provide an all-day matte finish and oil control, as well as an optical blurring effect to minimize the appearance of pores and skin texture. Over time, the above formulations can also improve dryness, skin tone and texture, pore appearance, the appearance of blemishes, and visible signs of aging. The SPF provided will vary based on the level of UV filter actually used, but as will be understood by those skilled in the art, the SPF value will increase as the amount of UV filter used increases. For example, certain formulations described in Table 1 can provide an SPF value >40.

[0195] In some embodiments, a method for applying a cosmetic to the face can be provided. The method can include applying the cosmetic composition disclosed herein to the face during a first time period and then removing the cosmetic composition from the face during a second time period after the first time period. In some embodiments, the method can include applying a second composition to the cosmetic composition after the first time period and before the second time period.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition for providing a matte foundation, comprising: An oil-control filler consisting of silica aerogel and optionally modified starch, amorphous silica, clay, and / or silicone elastomer; An organic hydrophobic UV filter consisting of octyl salicylate, and the cosmetic composition does not contain other organic hydrophobic UV filters; An organic water-soluble UV filter consisting of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (PBSA), and the cosmetic composition does not contain other organic water-soluble UV filters; An inorganic UV filter consisting of UV-grade titanium dioxide, and the cosmetic composition does not contain other inorganic UV filters; A colorant; A hydrocarbon oil; A hydrocarbon emulsifier; And Water.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the inorganic UV filter is present in an amount less than 5% by weight of the composition.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the inorganic UV filter is present in an amount less than 3% by weight of the composition.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oil-control filler is present in an amount less than 10% by weight of the composition.

5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a polyol.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a non-volatile silicone oil.

7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a vitamin.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of the hydrocarbon oil plus the amount of the non-volatile silicone oil is less than 30% by weight of the composition.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition does not contain a volatile silicone oil.

10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrocarbon oil is present in an amount less than 15% by weight of the composition.

11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the colorant is present in an amount less than 30% by weight of the composition.

12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the colorant consists of one or more pigments.

13. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein each pigment is coated.

14. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pigment includes pigment-grade titanium dioxide.

15. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition contains a preservative, a silicone resin, a thickening agent, a pH regulator or buffer, an electrolyte, a flavonoid, a synthetic peptide, and / or an amino acid or amino acid derivative.

16. The cosmetic composition according to claim 15, wherein the composition is substantially free of all other materials.

17. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is a water-in-oil emulsion.

18. A method for applying a cosmetic to the face, comprising: Apply the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17 to the face during a first time period; and Remove the cosmetic composition from the face during a second time period after the first time period.

19. The method according to claim 18, further comprising applying a second composition to the cosmetic composition after the first time period and before the second time period.