Daily chemical emulsifier, liquid crystal face cream and preparation method
High-content lysophospholipid emulsifiers are prepared by enzymatic decomposition and decolorization treatment of soy concentrated phospholipids, which solves the problems of low lysophospholipid content, heavy odor and dark color in cosmetics, and has prepared high-efficiency and low-cost daily chemical emulsifiers suitable for liquid crystal creams to improve skin metabolism and moisturizing properties.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202510536310.3
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2025-04-27
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-11
AI Technical Summary
In the cosmetics industry, lysophospholipids have problems such as low content, heavy odor, dark color and high price.
Soybean concentrated phospholipids are used as raw materials to prepare high-content lysophospholipid emulsifiers through enzymatic lysis reactions, and combined with decolorization and concentration steps, daily-care emulsifiers with high LPC content, light odor and light color are prepared; they are used to prepare liquid crystal creams to form a liquid crystal structure similar to the skin lipid layer.
Prepare emulsifiers with high content of lysophospholipids to improve cell permeability and accelerate skin metabolism. They have excellent skin feeling, strong stability, moisturizing and moisturizing effects, and are low in cost.
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Figure CN120284760A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and specifically relates to a daily chemical emulsifier, a liquid crystal cream and a preparation method thereof. Background Art
[0002] Phospholipids exist in the cells of all animals and plants. In plants, they are mainly distributed in seeds, nuts and grains. Among them, egg yolk and soybeans are rich in phospholipids, and certain amounts of phospholipids are also contained in other plants such as corn, cottonseed, rapeseed, peanuts and sunflower seeds. The hydrated oil foot produced by refining and degumming soybean oil is soybean concentrated phospholipid after vacuum dehydration. More than 60% of it is phospholipid, and the rest are triglycerides and a small amount of fatty acids, polysaccharides and pigment concomitants, etc. Soybean concentrated phospholipid is mainly composed of phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol and phosphatidic acid, etc., endowing it with unique functional characteristics such as antioxidant property, prevention of chronic inflammation, promotion of the development of the brain and nervous system, prevention of depression and neurological diseases, etc., and is widely used in the fields of food, medicine, leather and cosmetics, etc.
[0003] Lysophospholipid is a substance formed by phospholipids losing one molecule of fatty acid under the action of phospholipase. In its molecular structure, in addition to retaining the hydrophilic and lipophilic groups of ordinary phospholipids, its hydrophilic property is significantly increased due to the reduction of the hydrophobic group, and it can improve the emulsification stability and HLB value, etc. Lysophospholipid not only has the effect of delaying aging, but also has the effect of enhancing memory; in addition, lysophospholipid has great improvement in aspects such as emulsification stability, emulsification heat resistance, acid resistance and emulsification salt resistance. Lysophospholipid also has antioxidant and antibacterial properties. When lysophospholipid is applied in cosmetics, the wedge-shaped structure of the lysophospholipid molecule is beneficial to its penetration into the cell membrane, can improve the cell permeability, accelerate the metabolism of the skin, and make the replacement of damaged epidermal cells faster. However, the lysophospholipid applied in the cosmetics industry has problems such as low content, strong odor, dark color and high price.
[0004] In summary, it is necessary to develop a daily chemical emulsifier, a liquid crystal cream and a preparation method to solve the problems of low content, strong odor, dark color and high price of lysophospholipid applied in the cosmetics industry. Summary of the Invention
[0005] The purpose of the present invention is to provide a daily chemical emulsifier, a liquid crystal cream and a preparation method, and the specific technical solutions are as follows:
[0006] In the first aspect, the present invention provides a preparation method of a daily chemical emulsifier, including:
[0007] Step S1: Take 100 parts by weight of soy lecithin, add a first solvent with a weight multiple of 3 - 5 times that of the soy lecithin, and stir to obtain a first mixture; the soy lecithin includes the following components by weight percentage: 60% - 70% acetone insoluble matter and 30% - 40% soy oil; among them, the acetone insoluble matter includes phospholipids; the soy oil includes substances such as triglycerides and fatty acids;
[0008] Step S2: Heat the first mixture to the enzymatic hydrolysis temperature, add a reaction enzyme to carry out an enzymatic hydrolysis reaction to obtain an enzymatic hydrolysate;
[0009] Step S3: Concentrate and evaporate the enzymatic hydrolysate to dryness to prepare a pre - emulsifier;
[0010] Step S4: Take 100 parts by weight of the pre - emulsifier, add a second solvent with a weight multiple of 6 - 8 times that of the pre - emulsifier, stir and centrifuge, and take the supernatant;
[0011] Step S5: Add a decolorizing agent to the supernatant and stir for 20 - 60 min to carry out decolorization and deodorization; then, obtain a filtrate by suction filtration; add a carrier solvent to the filtrate and obtain the product emulsifier by rotary evaporation.
[0012] Optionally, in step S1, the first solvent includes any one of isopropyl acetate, phosphate buffer, and ethanol with a volume fraction of 80% - 95%.
[0013] Optionally, in step S2, the enzymatic hydrolysis temperature is 50 - 60 °C; the enzymatic hydrolysis reaction time is 1 - 3 h; the weight percentage of the reaction enzyme in the enzymatic hydrolysate is 0.1% - 0.5%; the reaction enzyme includes any one of lipase Amano, phospholipase A1, lipase isozyme, Novozym 435, phospholipase A1 / A2, and Lipozyme TLIM.
[0014] Optionally, in step S3, the temperature used for concentration and evaporation to dryness is 80 - 95 °C.
[0015] Optionally, in step S4, it is necessary to repeat taking the supernatant of the pre - emulsifier at least 3 times; the second solvent is ethanol with a volume fraction of 85% - 95%.
[0016] Optionally, in step S5, the weight percentage of the decolorizing agent in the supernatant is 1% - 2%; the decolorizing agent includes any one of hydrogen peroxide solution, activated carbon, alumina, and sodium metabisulfite; the carrier solvent includes any one of sunflower oil, squalane, dicaprylyl carbonate, glycerol, caprylic / capric triglyceride, 1,3 - propanediol, and polydimethylsiloxane.
[0017] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a daily chemical emulsifier, which is prepared by using the preparation method of the daily chemical emulsifier described above.
[0018] In a third aspect, the present invention provides a preparation method of a liquid crystal cream, comprising mixing and homogenizing a prepared aqueous phase composition and an oil phase composition to obtain a cream preform; the homogenization temperature used for the homogenization is 80-90 °C, and the homogenization time is 3-10 min; when the cream preform is cooled to 40-45 °C, an auxiliary agent is added, and after mixing evenly, it is cooled to room temperature to obtain a liquid crystal cream; the oil phase composition comprises the daily chemical emulsifier as described in claim 7.
[0019] Optionally, the aqueous phase composition comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight: 65-70 parts of water, 0.02-0.08 part of disodium EDTA, 3-8 parts of glycerol, 3-10 parts of glycerol polyether-26, 2-5 parts of butanediol, 0.05-0.2 part of xanthan gum, and 0.2-1.0 part of acryloyldimethyltauramide / VP copolymer;
[0020] The raw material components in the aqueous phase composition are mixed and dissolved at 70-90 °C to obtain the aqueous phase composition;
[0021] The oil phase composition comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight: 0.5-1.5 parts of daily chemical emulsifier, 0.1-0.5 part of cetearyl olivate, 0.1-0.5 part of sorbitan olivate, 5-10 parts of caprylic / capric triglyceride, 3-10 parts of sunflower seed oil, 0.5-2.0 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, and 1.0-3.0 parts of shea butter;
[0022] The raw material components in the oil phase composition are mixed and dissolved at 70-90 °C to obtain the oil phase composition;
[0023] The auxiliary agent comprises 0.1-0.3 part of octanoyl hydroxamic acid in parts by weight, 0.5-1.0 part of propylene glycol in parts by weight, 0.5-1.0 part of 1,2-hexanediol in parts by weight, and 0.05-0.2 part of sodium hyaluronate in parts by weight.
[0024] In a fourth aspect, the present invention provides a liquid crystal cream, which is prepared by using the preparation method of the liquid crystal cream described above.
[0025] Applying the technical solution of the present invention has at least the following beneficial effects:
[0026] (1) The preparation method of a daily chemical emulsifier provided by the present invention can prepare an emulsifier containing lysophospholipid with high LPC content, high HLB, light odor, light color and low preparation cost, which is more suitable for application in daily chemical products. Specifically, the soybean concentrated phospholipid used in the present invention is a phospholipid product produced by conditioning, decolorizing and vacuum dehydrating and concentrating with soybean hydrated oil foot as the raw material, and has the advantage of low price; the soybean concentrated phospholipid is subjected to enzymatic reaction to obtain lysophospholipid; high-content lysophospholipid is obtained by concentrating and drying; the supernatant is decolorized and deodorized with a decolorant; the solvent is distilled off by rotary evaporation to obtain a high-content emulsifier containing lysophospholipid.
[0027] (2) The preparation method of a liquid crystal cream provided by the present invention can prepare a high-content lysophospholipid liquid crystal cream with light odor and light color, improve the permeability of cells, accelerate the metabolism of the skin, and make the replacement of damaged epidermal cells faster. In addition, the liquid crystal cream also has excellent skin feel, strong stability and moisturizing properties; specifically, the liquid crystal cream prepared by the present invention has a liquid crystal structure, which is a special structure between solid and liquid, and has the crystal order of solid and the flow characteristics of liquid; this liquid crystal structure is very similar to the skin lipid layer and has excellent compatibility with the skin. It not only has stronger permeability, but also can improve the skin moisture retention in a shorter time and for a longer duration, and the skin feel is more moist and refreshing. In addition, the liquid crystal cream prepared by the present invention contains interlayer bound water in the liquid crystal structure, which is easy to spread and shows an excellent skin feel experience. The liquid crystal cream prepared by the present invention uses a daily chemical emulsifier, which is similar to the phospholipid tissue structure of the skin cutin layer and has a high affinity for the skin.
[0028] In addition to the purposes, features and advantages described above, the present invention has other purposes, features and advantages. The present invention will be further described in detail below with reference to the drawings. Brief Description of the Drawings
[0029] The drawings forming a part of this application are used to provide a further understanding of the present invention. The schematic embodiments of the present invention and their descriptions are used to explain the present invention and do not constitute an improper limitation of the present invention. In the drawings:
[0030] Figure 1 It is a lamellar liquid crystal diagram observed under a polarized light microscope of the liquid crystal cream prepared in Example 10 of the present invention. Detailed Description of the Embodiments
[0031] Next, the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described in conjunction with the accompanying drawings in the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, rather than all the embodiments. All other embodiments obtained by those of ordinary skill in the art based on the embodiments of the present invention belong to the scope of protection of the present invention.
[0032] Example 1:
[0033] A preparation method of a daily chemical emulsifier includes:
[0034] Step S1: Take 100 parts by weight of soybean concentrated phospholipid, add a first solvent (specifically isopropyl acetate) with a weight multiple of 3 to 5 times (specifically 3.5 times) of its weight, and obtain a first mixed solution through stirring;
[0035] Step S2: Heat the first mixed solution to the enzymatic hydrolysis temperature, add a reaction enzyme for enzymatic hydrolysis reaction, and obtain an enzymatic hydrolysate;
[0036] Step S3: Concentrate and evaporate the enzymatic hydrolysate to dryness to prepare a prefabricated emulsifier;
[0037] Step S4: Take 100 parts by weight of the prefabricated emulsifier, add a second solvent with a weight multiple of 6 to 8 times (specifically 6 times) of its weight, and take the supernatant after stirring and centrifugation;
[0038] Step S5: Add a decolorizing agent to the supernatant and stir for 20 to 60 minutes (specifically 40 minutes) for decolorization and odor removal; then, obtain a filtrate through suction filtration; add a carrier solvent to the filtrate and obtain a product emulsifier through rotary evaporation.
[0039] In step S2, the enzymatic hydrolysis temperature is 50 to 60 °C (specifically 55 °C); the enzymatic hydrolysis reaction time is 1 to 3 hours (specifically 2 hours); the weight percentage content of the reaction enzyme in the enzymatic hydrolysate is 0.1% to 0.5% (specifically 0.2%); the reaction enzyme is lipase Amano provided by Novozymes.
[0040] In step S3, the temperature used for concentration and evaporation to dryness is 95 °C.
[0041] In step S4, the supernatant needs to be repeatedly taken from the prefabricated emulsifier 3 times; the second solvent is ethanol with a volume fraction of 85% to 95% (specifically 85%).
[0042] In step S5, the weight percentage content of the decolorizing agent in the supernatant is 1%; the decolorizing agent is specifically a hydrogen peroxide solution with a mass concentration of 20%; the carrier solvent is 20 ml of squalane.
[0043] Example 2:
[0044] Different from Example 1, the reaction enzyme is phospholipase A1 (Lecitase Ultra) provided by Novozymes; the weight percentage of the decolorizing agent in the supernatant is 2%; the decolorizing agent is specifically alumina; the carrier solvent is sunflower seed oil.
[0045] Example 3:
[0046] Different from Example 1, the reaction enzyme is lipase isozyme provided by Novozymes; the weight percentage of the decolorizing agent in the supernatant is 2%; the decolorizing agent is specifically activated carbon; the carrier solvent is dioctyl carbonate.
[0047] Example 4:
[0048] Different from Example 1, the reaction enzyme is phospholipase A1 (Lecitase Ultra) provided by Novozymes.
[0049] Example 5:
[0050] Different from Example 1, the reaction enzyme is lipase isozyme provided by Novozymes.
[0051] Example 6:
[0052] Different from Example 2, the decolorizing agent is specifically activated carbon.
[0053] Example 7:
[0054] Different from Example 2, the decolorizing agent is specifically a hydrogen peroxide solution with a mass concentration of 20%.
[0055] Example 8:
[0056] Different from Example 3, the carrier solvent is sunflower seed oil.
[0057] Example 9:
[0058] Different from Example 2, the carrier solvent is squalane.
[0059] Comparative Example 1:
[0060] Different from Example 1, the soy lecithin concentrate is replaced with an equal amount of soy phospholipid.
[0061] Comparative Example 2:
[0062] Different from Example 1, the enzymatic hydrolysis temperature is too low, specifically 40°C.
[0063] Comparative Example 3:
[0064] Different from Example 1, the enzymatic hydrolysis temperature was too high, specifically 70 °C.
[0065] Samples were taken from the emulsifiers prepared in Examples 1-9 and Comparative Examples 1-3 respectively for testing the content of lysophosphatidylcholine (LPC), the content of acetone-insoluble matter and the HLB value. The test results are shown in Table 1. Specifically, the content of LPC and the content of acetone-insoluble matter were both determined by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC-ELSD). The HLB value test method is as follows: Weigh 0.5 g of standard samples with various HLB values (specifically Tween 20, Tween 40, Tween 80, Span 20, Span 40, Span 80) into a 100 ml conical flask, and add 25 ml of N,N-dimethylformamide benzene mixture. Place a piece of white paper printed with black characters in font size 3 at the bottom of the conical flask, shake the conical flask continuously, and slowly drip distilled water from the burette until the font size 3 at the bottom becomes blurred as the end point. Record the volume of distilled water consumed. Use the HLB value as the abscissa and the volume of distilled water consumed in milliliters as the ordinate to make a standard curve, and record the HLB value at the end point. The HLB value calculation formula is obtained by fitting the HLB values of each standard sample at the end point. Finally, weigh 0.5 g of the sample into a 100 ml conical flask, add 25 ml of N,N-dimethylformamide benzene mixture. Place a piece of white paper printed with black characters in font size 3 at the bottom of the conical flask, shake the conical flask continuously, and slowly drip distilled water from the burette until the font size 3 at the bottom becomes blurred as the end point. Record the volume of distilled water consumed, and substitute this volume of distilled water into the HLB value calculation formula to obtain the HLB value of this sample.
[0066] Table 1 Test results of LPC content, acetone-insoluble matter content and HLB value
[0067] Grouping LPC Content / % Acetone Insoluble Content / % HLB Value Example 1 7.85 56.33 9.25 Example 2 8.56 72.89 9.78 Example 3 9.60 83.28 11.30 Example 4 7.93 57.98 9.86 Example 5 8.45 62.33 10.51 Example 6 8.85 73.90 9.88 Example 7 8.46 72.65 8.90 Example 8 8.60 74.86 10.80 Example 9 8.72 80.25 10.68 Comparative Example 1 7.66 56.00 9.21 Comparative Example 2 7.35 42.80 9.00 Comparative Example 3 7.20 41.65 8.93
[0068] From the data in Table 1, it can be seen that compared with Comparative Examples 1-3, the emulsifiers prepared in Examples 1-9 of the present invention have a high content of LPC, a high content of acetone-insoluble matter and a high HLB value, and Example 3 is the best. In Comparative Example 1, the use of soybean phospholipids resulted in relatively low LPC content, acetone-insoluble matter content and HLB value of the prepared emulsifier, which indicates that the content of lysophospholipids in soybean phospholipids is lower than that in soybean concentrated phospholipids. And in Comparative Example 2, the use of too low enzymatic hydrolysis temperature and in Comparative Example 3, the use of too high enzymatic hydrolysis temperature are not suitable for making emulsifiers.
[0069] Samples of the emulsifiers prepared in Examples 1-9 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were respectively taken for the emulsifying power test, and the test results are shown in Table 2. Specifically, 40 ml of the sample was pipetted into a graduated cylinder with a glass stopper, and then 40 ml of soybean oil was pipetted into the same graduated cylinder; the glass stopper and the graduated cylinder were tightly held by hand and shaken violently up and down 5 times, then left standing for 1 min, and this shaking and standing operation was repeated 5 times, and then the stopwatch was used to record the time when 10 ml of the aqueous phase separated out. The above emulsifying power test was carried out with silicone oil and white oil replacing soybean oil respectively, and the test results are shown in Table 2.
[0070] Table 2 Test Results of Emulsifying Power
[0071] Grouping Soybean Oil Silicone Oil White Oil Example 1 8’05” 6’02” 9’18” Example 2 9’33” 6’57” 9’27” Example 3 12’53” 8’07” 12’15” Example 4 8’15” 6’52” 9’28” Example 5 11’30” 7’50” 11’55” Example 6 11’50” 8’00” 11’40” Example 7 8’25” 6’32” 9’58” Example 8 9’45” 7’20” 10’25” Example 9 9’55” 7’30” 10’30” Comparative Example 1 8’00” 5’45” 8’50” Comparative Example 2 7’52” 5’20” 8’30” Comparative Example 3 7’30” 5’25” 8’12”
[0072] From the data in Table 2, it can be seen that compared with Comparative Examples 1-3, the emulsifiers prepared in Examples 1-9 of the present invention have a relatively longer separation time of the aqueous phase, and Example 3 has the longest separation time. This shows that the emulsifiers prepared in Examples 1-9 of the present invention have better emulsifying properties; among them, combined with the data in Table 1, it can be known that the emulsifiers prepared in Examples 1-9 of the present invention have a high content of LPC and a high HLB value, and both the high content of LPC and the high HLB value contribute to improving the emulsifying properties.
[0073] Samples of the emulsifiers prepared in Examples 1-9 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were respectively taken for the emulsifying stability test, and the test results are shown in Table 3. Specifically, the emulsifying stability test:
[0074] The sample was added to pure water and mixed evenly to prepare a lysophospholipid aqueous solution with a weight percentage of 2%; at different temperatures (specifically 10 °C, 25 °C and 75 °C), 5 mL of the 2% lysophospholipid aqueous solution was mixed with 5 mL of salad oil, stirred and emulsified to form an emulsion system, and the pH value of the emulsion system was adjusted to 5.2; it was kept for 24 h, and the change in the volume of the emulsion layer was observed. Among them, the emulsion layer ratio in Table 3 refers to the ratio of the emulsion to the water layer after the emulsion system is destroyed.
[0075] Table 3 Test Results of Emulsifying Stability
[0076]
[0077] From the data in Table 3, it can be seen that compared with Comparative Examples 1-3, the decrease amplitude of the emulsion layer ratio prepared in Examples 1-9 of the present invention with the increase of temperature is relatively smaller, and the decrease amplitude of the emulsion layer ratio of Example 3 with the increase of temperature is the smallest. This shows that the emulsifiers prepared in Examples 1-9 of the present invention have better emulsifying properties; among them, combined with the data in Table 1, it can be known that the emulsifiers prepared in Examples 1-9 of the present invention have a high content of LPC and a high HLB value, and both the high content of LPC and the high HLB value contribute to improving the emulsifying properties.
[0078] Example 10:
[0079] A preparation method of a liquid crystal cream, in which the prepared aqueous phase composition and oil phase composition are mixed and homogenized to obtain a cream preform, which is kept warm for 10 minutes and then reserved; the homogenization temperature used for homogenization is 85 °C, the homogenization time is 5 min, and the homogenization speed is 3000 r / min; when the cream preform is cooled to 45 °C, an auxiliary agent is added, and after mixing evenly, it is cooled to room temperature to obtain a liquid crystal cream; the oil phase composition includes the daily chemical emulsifier prepared in Example 3; the auxiliary agent adopts the raw material components with the weight parts shown in Table 4. Among them, octanoyl hydroxamic acid, propylene glycol and 1,2 - hexanediol are auxiliary agents for anti - corrosion, and sodium hyaluronate is an active auxiliary agent.
[0080] The aqueous phase composition adopts the raw material components with the weight parts shown in Table 4. After stirring, mixing and dissolving each raw material component at 85 °C, the aqueous phase composition is obtained, which is kept warm for 10 minutes and then reserved; among them, the stirring speed is 300 r / min.
[0081] The oil phase composition adopts the raw material components with the weight parts shown in Table 4. After stirring, mixing and dissolving each raw material component at 85 °C, the oil phase composition is obtained, which is kept warm for 10 minutes and then reserved; among them, the stirring speed is 300 r / min.
[0082] Comparative Example 4:
[0083] Different from Example 10, the emulsifier used in Comparative Example 4 is a non - phospholipid emulsifier, including polyethylene glycol (100) stearate, glyceryl stearate and cetearyl alcohol. The specific dosage can be seen in Table 4.
[0084] Table 4 Raw material components and dosage used in Comparative Example 4 and Example 10
[0085]
[0086]
[0087] The liquid crystal cream prepared in Example 10 and the ordinary cream prepared in Comparative Example 4 are respectively used for the sensory evaluation test of human use. The specific test method is as follows:
[0088] Subjects: 30 female volunteers aged 20 - 40 years old are selected, and they use the liquid crystal cream prepared in Example 10 and the ordinary cream prepared in Comparative Example 4 respectively. A double - blind random comparison test is carried out to conduct a sensory evaluation and comparison score on the liquid crystal cream and the ordinary cream.
[0089] Test site: On the back of the left and right hands of the subject, circles with a diameter of about 5 cm were taken as the evaluation areas. Among them, the evaluation test of the liquid crystal cream prepared in Example 10 was carried out on the left hand of the subject every day, and the evaluation test of the ordinary cream prepared in Comparative Example 4 was carried out on the right hand of the subject every day. Scoring evaluation was carried out within 30 - 60 minutes after application.
[0090] The reference standard for volunteer scoring is as follows:
[0091] Texture: Light, easy to spread, and easy to slide.
[0092] Absorbability: Clear and easy to absorb.
[0093] Glossiness: The paste is translucent and has good gloss.
[0094] Softness: The paste is soft and comfortable when applied.
[0095] Stickiness: No stickiness, and the skin is light, smooth, and moist after application.
[0096] Moisture retention: The skin is smooth, elastic, moist, and not dry.
[0097] Overall evaluation: The paste has a good texture, provides a good experience during use, and has a good moisturizing effect after application.
[0098] The closer it is to the above description, the higher the score; conversely, the lower the score. The lowest score is 1 and the highest score is 10. The evaluation results are shown in Table 5.
[0099] Table 5 Sensory evaluation results
[0100]
[0101]
[0102] As can be seen from Table 5, compared with Comparative Example 4, the overall skin feel of the liquid crystal cream of Example 10 used by the test volunteers is excellent. The specific skin feel is manifested in being soft and delicate, having a light texture, being moisturizing without stickiness, being clear and easy to absorb, and having strong moisture retention and water locking ability. This is because Example 10 uses a daily chemical emulsifier, which is similar to the phospholipid tissue structure of the skin cutin layer and has a high affinity for the skin; in addition, the liquid crystal cream prepared in Example 10 is an emulsion containing a liquid crystal structure, which has interlayer bound water, is easy to spread and extend, and shows an excellent skin feel experience.
[0103] The liquid crystal cream prepared in Example 10 and the ordinary cream prepared in Comparative Example 4 were respectively used for the moisture retention and water locking performance test, specifically for the skin water content test and the trans - epidermal water loss (TEWL value) test. The test instruments used were the Corneometer skin moisture content test instrument and the TEWL tester.
[0104] The specific test method is as follows: 30 female volunteers aged 20 to 40 years old were selected as subjects, and the liquid crystal cream prepared in Example 10 and the ordinary cream prepared in Comparative Example 4 were used respectively. The test sites were areas of circles with a diameter of about 5 cm on the backs of the left and right hands. Cosmetics and topical medications could not be used on the test sites 5 days before the test, and health products could not be taken orally by the subjects 5 days before the test.
[0105] During the test, the subjects were required to wash their hands and then enter a constant temperature and humidity room at 24 ± 1 °C and 50 ± 5% humidity and sit quietly for 20 min, and keep a relaxed state for the test of the test sites. The test was carried out once in the morning and once in the evening every day. The application amount was 1 g and it was applied evenly; both the left and right hands were tested simultaneously and the same test was carried out; among them, the liquid crystal cream prepared in Example 10 was tested on the left hand of the subject, and the ordinary cream prepared in Comparative Example 4 was tested on the right hand of the subject. The test of the same volunteer was completed by the same measurement personnel. The test results are shown in Table 6. In Table 6, D1 represents the average value of the test on the first day; D21 represents the average value of the test on the twenty-first day.
[0106] Table 6 Test results of moisture retention and water locking performance
[0107]
[0108]
[0109] As can be seen from Table 6, compared with Comparative Example 4, the subjects showed a greater increase in skin water content and a significantly lower transdermal water loss when using the liquid crystal cream prepared in Example 10. This shows that the liquid crystal cream prepared in Example 10 helps to improve the water locking and moisturizing functions of the skin, increase the skin moisture content, and make the skin smooth and shiny due to the inclusion of a daily chemical emulsifier. Analyzing from the reasons, on the one hand, the daily chemical emulsifier contains a unique bilayer structure, which can adsorb on the stratum corneum of the skin to form a protective layer and has a water retention effect; on the other hand, the phospholipid structure has hygroscopicity and is easy to penetrate into the skin, so it can bind the water in the skin and prevent the skin from dehydration and drying, thus ensuring the skin is soft, smooth and healthy; on the other hand, the liquid crystal cream prepared in Example 10 is an emulsion containing a liquid crystal structure, and there is interlayer bound water in it, which is not easy to evaporate, thus prolonging the hydration effect and achieving the effect of water retention and water locking.
[0110] The liquid crystal cream prepared in Example 10 and the ordinary cream prepared in Comparative Example 4 were used as samples for the skin model permeability test respectively, and the test results are shown in Table 7. The test method is as follows:
[0111] In vitro construction of a three-dimensional recombinant skin model: After in vitro amplification of normal human primary epidermal keratinocytes, a 3D skin model Archskin containing epidermal structure was constructed in a hanging cell culture chamber of a multi-well plate. In this test, 63 skin models Archskin were constructed, with 3 parallel samples in each sample group.
[0112] Determination of the transdermal efficiency of hyaluronic acid raw material: The method for determining the transdermal efficiency of hyaluronic acid raw material is to add 4.4 ml of culture medium to the cell culture wells of a multi-well plate, and the skin model Archskin together with the cell culture chamber is suspended in the cell culture wells. 5 μl (a total of 5000 ng) of each sample was evenly applied to the skin surface of the 3D skin model Archskin. The culture medium in the lower chamber of the cell culture wells was collected at 0 h, 4 h, 8 h, 12 h, and 24 h respectively, 1500 μl was collected each time, and then replenished with the same volume of culture medium. The hyaluronic acid content was quantitatively detected by ELSIA according to the manufacturer's instruction document, and 3 parallel samples were used for each group of quantitative samples.
[0113] Table 7 Test results of the skin model permeability
[0114] Grouping Transdermal Permeation Rate at 0 h (%) Transdermal Permeation Rate at 4 h (%) Transdermal Permeation Rate at 8 h (%) Transdermal Permeation Rate at 12 h (%) Transdermal Permeation Rate at 24 h (%) Example 10 0 17.5 22.3 23.4 25.5 Comparative Example 4 0 17.1 19.2 20.8 22.3
[0115] As can be seen from the data in Table 7, compared with Comparative Example 4, the test results of the skin model permeability tested in Example 10 were significantly improved. Analyzing from the reasons, Example 10 used a daily chemical emulsifier, which was more likely to form a lamellar liquid crystal structure, see Figure 1 ; the lamellar liquid crystal structure has a structure similar to the lipid layer of the skin, so its permeability is stronger.
[0116] The above are only the preferred embodiments of the present invention and are not used to limit the present invention. For those skilled in the art, the present invention can have various changes and modifications. Any modifications, equivalent replacements, improvements, etc. made within the spirit and principle of the present invention shall be included within the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims
1. A preparation method of a daily chemical emulsifier, characterized in that, Comprising: Step S1: Take 100 parts by weight of soy lecithin, add a first solvent in an amount of 3 - 5 times its weight, and obtain a first mixture through stirring. Step S2: Heat the first mixture to the enzymatic hydrolysis temperature, add a reaction enzyme to carry out an enzymatic hydrolysis reaction, and obtain an enzymatic hydrolysate. Step S3: Concentrate and evaporate the enzymatic hydrolysate to dryness to prepare a prefabricated emulsifier. Step S4: Take 100 parts by weight of the prefabricated emulsifier, add a second solvent in an amount of 6 - 8 times its weight, and take the supernatant after stirring and centrifugation. Step S5: Add a decolorizing agent to the supernatant and stir for 20 - 60 min to carry out decolorization and odor removal; subsequently, obtain a filtrate through suction filtration; add a carrier solvent to the filtrate and obtain a product emulsifier through rotary evaporation.
2. The preparation method of the daily chemical emulsifier according to claim 1, wherein In step S1, the first solvent includes any one of isopropyl acetate, phosphate buffer, and ethanol with a volume fraction of 80% - 95%.
3. The preparation method of the daily chemical emulsifier according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S2, the enzymatic hydrolysis temperature is 50 - 60 °C; the enzymatic hydrolysis reaction time is 1 - 3 h; the weight percentage content of the reaction enzyme in the enzymatic hydrolysate is 0.1% - 0.5%; the reaction enzyme includes any one of lipase Amano, phospholipase A1, lipase isozyme, Novozym435, phospholipase A1 / A2, and Lipozyme TLIM.
4. The preparation method of the daily chemical emulsifier according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S3, the temperature for concentration and evaporation to dryness is 80 - 95 °C.
5. The preparation method of the daily chemical emulsifier according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S4, it is necessary to repeat taking the supernatant of the prefabricated emulsifier at least 3 times; the second solvent is ethanol with a volume fraction of 85% - 95%.
6. The preparation method of the daily chemical emulsifier according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S5, the weight percentage content of the decolorizing agent in the supernatant is 1% - 2%; the decolorizing agent includes any one of hydrogen peroxide solution, activated carbon, alumina, and sodium metabisulfite; the carrier solvent includes any one of sunflower seed oil, squalane, dicaprylyl carbonate, glycerol, caprylic / capric triglyceride, 1,3 - propanediol, and polydimethylsiloxane.
7. A daily chemical emulsifier, characterized in that, Prepared by using the preparation method of the daily chemical emulsifier as described in claim 1.
8. A preparation method of a liquid crystal cream, characterized in that, Including mixing and homogenizing a prepared aqueous phase composition and an oil phase composition to obtain a cream prefabricate; the homogenizing temperature for homogenization is 80 - 90 °C, and the homogenizing time is 3 - 10 min; when the cream prefabricate is cooled to 40 - 45 °C, add an auxiliary agent, mix well and then cool to room temperature to obtain a liquid crystal cream; the oil phase composition includes the daily chemical emulsifier as described in claim 7.
9. The preparation method of the liquid crystal cream according to claim 8, wherein The aqueous phase composition includes the following raw material components in parts by weight: 65 - 70 parts of water, 0.02 - 0.08 part of disodium EDTA, 3 - 8 parts of glycerol, 3 - 10 parts of glycerol polyether - 26, 2 - 5 parts of butanediol, 0.05 - 0.2 part of xanthan gum, and 0.2 - 1.0 part of acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer; The various raw material components in the aqueous phase composition are mixed and dissolved at 70 - 90 °C to obtain the aqueous phase composition; The oil phase composition comprises the following raw material components in parts by weight: 0.5 to 1.5 parts of a daily chemical emulsifier, 0.1 to 0.5 parts of cetearyl olivate, 0.1 to 0.5 parts of sorbitan olivate, 5 to 10 parts of caprylic / capric triglyceride, 3 to 10 parts of sunflower seed oil, 0.5 to 2.0 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, and 1.0 to 3.0 parts of shea butter fruit extract; The oil phase composition is obtained by mixing and dissolving the raw material components in the oil phase composition at 70 to 90 °C; The auxiliary agent comprises 0.1 to 0.3 parts by weight of octanoyl hydroxamic acid, 0.5 to 1.0 parts by weight of propylene glycol, 0.5 to 1.0 parts by weight of 1,2 - hexanediol, and 0.05 to 0.2 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate.
10. A liquid crystal cream, characterized in that, It is prepared by using the preparation method of the liquid crystal facial cream as described in claim 9.