Intelligent zoned oil control composition for oil-sensitive skin and applications thereof

Abstract

The application discloses an intelligent partition oil control composition for sensitive skin and application thereof, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. The oil control composition provided by the application comprises the following components in mass fraction: 0.5-10 parts of active ingredients from medicinal Fomes fomentarius, 0.5-10 parts of nicotinamide, 0.01-5 parts of panthenol, 0.1-10 parts of acetylchitosamine and 0.01-5 parts of glycerol glucoside. The active ingredients from medicinal Fomes fomentarius include at least one of medicinal Fomes fomentarius extract and bidirectional fermentation products of medicinal Fomes fomentarius and lactobacillus plantarum. The components are selected in proper mass fraction, and the components cooperate with each other to effectively control oil and moisture and improve skin barrier capacity, and full-face intelligent partition oil control and moisture retention can be realized. The composition provided by the application is mild and non-irritating, and is suitable for sensitive skin.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular relates to an intelligent zoning oil-control composition specially developed for oily-sensitive skin and its application. Background Art

[0002] Due to the significant differences in the distribution and activity of sebaceous glands across the face, combination skin often exhibits a paradoxical state of "vigorous oil secretion in the T-zone and dryness and sensitivity in the U-zone." The pain point in its care lies in the difficulty of achieving precise regional regulation with traditional skincare products: using a single oil-control product can easily lead to damaged skin barrier, redness, and flaking in dry areas, while relying solely on moisturizers can exacerbate clogged pores in oily areas and cause dark spots and closed comedones. Consumers are often forced to layer multiple products, but due to poor formula compatibility or conflicting active ingredients, this can exacerbate the water-oil imbalance and even trigger skin sensitivity. For example, while frequent use of absorbent ingredients (such as kaolin) in oily areas can temporarily alleviate shine, excessive sebum stripping can trigger compensatory oil production, creating a vicious cycle of "the more control, the oilier the skin becomes." Relying solely on occlusive moisturizers (such as petrolatum) in dry areas can weaken the skin's self-regulating ability and lead to a weakened skin barrier.

[0003] In existing technologies, oil-control ingredients (such as salicylic acid and zinc sulfate) mostly focus on inhibiting sebum secretion or physical adsorption, but lack dynamic regulation of sebaceous gland activity and regional adaptability, and are unable to simultaneously relieve barrier pressure in dry areas. Moisturizing ingredients (such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides) can increase the water content of the stratum corneum, but have difficulty inhibiting excessive sebum overflow in oily areas. More importantly, most formula designs fail to establish a dynamic balance mechanism of "oil control and moisturizing." They are unable to regulate the regional response threshold of sebaceous glands through signal pathways, nor can they intelligently adjust the state of the hydrolipid film according to changes in the skin microenvironment. This has caused the care of mixed skin to be stuck in a long-term technical dilemma of "giving priority to one thing and losing sight of the other." Summary of the Invention

[0004] The purpose of the present invention is to overcome the shortcomings of the above-mentioned prior art and provide an intelligent zoning oil control composition and its application specially developed for oily and sensitive skin, which has good oil control and moisturizing properties and enhances skin barrier ability, while also being able to achieve intelligent zoning oil control and moisturizing.

[0005] To achieve the above objectives, in a first aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides an intelligent partitioning oil control composition specifically developed for oily-sensitive skin, the oil control composition comprising the following components in parts by weight:

[0006] 0.5-10 parts of active ingredients derived from medicinal phytomycetes, 0.5-10 parts of niacinamide, 0.01-5 parts of panthenol, 0.1-10 parts of acetyl glucosamine, and 0.01-5 parts of glycerol glucoside;

[0007] The active ingredient derived from medicinal pore fungus includes at least one of a medicinal pore fungus extract and a medicinal pore fungus-Lactobacillus plantarum bidirectional fermentation product.

[0008] The present invention selects components in appropriate mass parts, and the components cooperate with each other to effectively coordinate multiple pathways such as targeted inhibition of sebaceous gland activity, regulation of keratin metabolism, and dynamic balance of the water-lipid film, thereby achieving intelligent zoning oil control and moisturizing of the face; establishing an "oil control-moisturizing" dynamic balance mechanism, that is, reducing sebum secretion in oil-rich areas and enhancing the moisturizing ability of the skin barrier in dry areas; thereby, by using one product at the same time, not only can good moisturizing, oil control, and skin barrier enhancement effects be achieved, but also intelligent zoning oil control and moisturizing can be achieved, achieving oil control on the entire face without drying out; and the composition provided by the present invention is mild and non-irritating, and is suitable for sensitive skin.

[0009] Specifically, the inventors speculate that the components each possess the following benefits: The active ingredient derived from medicinal phytomycetes is rich in triterpenes and polysaccharides. Its natural triterpenes can inhibit 5α-reductase activity and regulate the lipid homeostasis factor miR-29, thereby precisely regulating localized sebum overproduction. Meanwhile, the polysaccharide components form a breathable, moisture-retaining film to prevent dryness. Niacinamide, a vitamin B3 derivative, enhances the skin's barrier function by upregulating ceramide synthesis and selectively acts on sebaceous gland cells to reduce triglyceride secretion. Panthenol (provitamin B5), a penetrating humectant, synergizes with niacinamide to increase stratum corneum water content and specifically enhances hydration in dry areas by activating the expression of the aquaporin AQP3. Acetyl-glucosamine, derived from chitin hydrolysis products, targets decomposition of desmosomes between corneocytes, gently promoting keratin metabolism in oil-rich areas and preventing pore clogging. Glyceryl glucoside, a plant-derived glycoside compound, activates the skin's endogenous hyaluronic acid synthase, establishing a dynamic moisturizing network in oil-controlled areas, balancing sebaceous gland activity and epidermal hydration. On the basis that the components have the above-mentioned effects, there are still unpredictable synergistic or antagonistic effects between the components. However, based on the component combination and the mass fraction of the components provided by the present invention, the intelligent response effect of the zoning regulation of the composition can be finally achieved, so as to achieve oil control and moisturizing of the whole face without drying out, and can effectively enhance the barrier capacity of the skin.

[0010] As a preferred embodiment of the oil control composition of the present invention, the oil control composition comprises the following components in parts by mass: 1-8 parts of an active ingredient derived from medicinal pore fungus, 1-8 parts of niacinamide, 0.1-1 part of panthenol, 1-5 parts of acetyl glucosamine, and 0.1-1 part of glycerol glucoside.

[0011] As a preferred embodiment of the oil control composition of the present invention, the oil control composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 3-5 parts of an active ingredient derived from medicinal pore fungus, 3-5 parts of niacinamide, 0.3-0.5 parts of panthenol, 2-3 parts of acetyl glucosamine, and 0.3-0.5 parts of glycerol glucoside.

[0012] The present invention has found that when the mass parts of the components in the oil-control composition are further selected to be within the above-mentioned range, the mutual coordination effect of the components in the composition is better, and the resulting composition not only has better oil-control and moisturizing effects, but also has a stronger effect in improving the skin barrier capacity; in addition, the "oil-control-moisturizing" dynamic balance mechanism of the resulting composition is more perfect, which can better inhibit the activity of sebaceous glands in areas with vigorous oil secretion, regulate keratin metabolism, enhance the skin hydration in dry areas, and improve its skin barrier capacity, thereby gently achieving intelligent zoning oil control and moisturizing for the entire face, and achieving good oil control without drying out the skin.

[0013] As a preferred embodiment of the oil control composition of the present invention, based on the total mass of the oil control composition, the sum of the mass percentages of the active ingredient derived from medicinal fusiformis and panthenol is 38-40%.

[0014] Illustratively, based on the total mass of the oil-control composition, the sum of the mass percentages of the medicinal pore fungus-derived active ingredient and panthenol may be any point value or any two point range values ​​between 38-40%, for example, 38%, 38.2%, 38.4%, 38.6%, 38.8%, 39%, 39.2%, 39.4%, 39.6%, 39.8%, 40%, etc.

[0015] The present invention has found that the sum of the mass percentages of the active ingredient derived from medicinal pore fungus and panthenol in the oil-control composition can better achieve the establishment of an "oil-control-moisturizing" balance mechanism, achieving a more excellent zoned oil-control-moisturizing effect; specifically, it can better inhibit the activity of 5α-reductase and promote the expression of the lipid balance factor miR-29 in areas with vigorous oil secretion, while inhibiting the expression of the lipid balance factor miR-29 in dry areas; thereby effectively achieving zoned oil control, and on the basis of zoned oil control, it can better and directionally enhance the hydration of dry areas, thereby improving skin water content and skin barrier capacity.

[0016] Preferably, the active ingredient derived from medicinal pore fungus is a bidirectional fermentation product of medicinal pore fungus and Lactobacillus plantarum.

[0017] The application researches and finds that the active ingredients from Phellinus baumii can be well combined with other components to regulate the secretion of oil, the synthesis of cutin, the activation of aquaporin and the water content of the skin in different regions, especially when the active ingredients from Phellinus baumii are selected as the bidirectional fermentation product of Phellinus baumii and Lactobacillus plantarum, on the basis of retaining a certain amount of triterpenoids and polysaccharides inherent in Phellinus baumii, the active substances that Phellinus baumii does not have before fermentation can also be obtained through specific bidirectional fermentation of Lactobacillus plantarum, so that the intelligent zoning regulation of oil control and moisturizing can be better achieved, and the barrier ability of the skin can also be better improved.

[0018] As a preferred embodiment of the oil control composition of the application, the preparation method of the bidirectional fermentation product of Phellinus baumii and Lactobacillus plantarum comprises the following steps:

[0019] (1) mixing Lactobacillus plantarum liquid and Phellinus baumii at a mass ratio of (0.5-3):1 and then anaerobically fermenting to obtain a fermentation product;

[0020] (2) cooling the fermentation product to 2-6℃ and then recycling in a microfluidizer homogenizer, finally crushing and centrifuging, collecting the supernatant and drying to obtain the bidirectional fermentation product of Phellinus baumii and Lactobacillus plantarum.

[0021] The application researches and finds that the application of the bidirectional fermentation product of Phellinus baumii and Lactobacillus plantarum in the composition of the application after the bidirectional fermentation of Phellinus baumii and Lactobacillus plantarum at a specific mass ratio in the above manner can obtain a composition with better comprehensive performance.

[0022] Exemplarily, the mass ratio of Lactobacillus plantarum liquid and Phellinus baumii can be any point value or any two-point range value between (0.5-3):1, such as 0.5:1, 1:1, 2:1, 3:1, etc.

[0023] It should be noted that the Phellinus baumii further comprises a pretreatment step before being mixed with the Lactobacillus plantarum fermentation liquid; the pretreatment of the Phellinus baumii comprises: crushing the dried fruiting body of Phellinus baumii to 40-60 mesh and then sterilizing.

[0024] As a preferred embodiment of the oil control composition of the application, in step (1), the temperature of anaerobic fermentation is 37±2℃, and the time of anaerobic fermentation is 48-72h.

[0025] Exemplarily, the time of anaerobic fermentation can be any point value or any two-point range value between 48-72h, such as 48h, 60h, 72h, etc.

[0026] As a preferred embodiment of the oil control composition of the present invention, in step (1), based on the total volume of the medicinal pore fungus and Lactobacillus plantarum bacterial liquid, 1-3% g / mL of glucose and 0.03-0.07% g / mL of magnesium sulfate are added for anaerobic fermentation.

[0027] As a preferred embodiment of the oil control composition of the present invention, in step (2), the pressure of the circulation treatment is 1000-1500 bar, the temperature of the circulation treatment is <40° C., and the number of circulation treatments is 3-5 times.

[0028] Preferably, in step (2), the pressure of the circulation treatment is 1200-1400 bar, and the temperature of the circulation treatment is 20-30°C.

[0029] Preferably, in the step (2), the stirring speed during the circulation treatment of the microfluidizer is 500-800 rpm.

[0030] The present invention has found that, during the microfluidic extraction process in step (2), the fermentation product is first cooled to 2-6°C and then extracted within the above-mentioned parameter range. While improving the extraction efficiency, it is possible to effectively extract active components that can synergize with other components, thereby enhancing the overall effect of the oil-control composition.

[0031] Preferably, the speed of the crushing centrifugation is 10000-14000g, and the time is 10-30min.

[0032] As a preferred embodiment of the oil control composition of the present invention, the preparation method of the Lactobacillus plantarum bacterial liquid comprises the following steps: inoculating Lactobacillus plantarum into MRS liquid culture medium and performing anaerobic fermentation until the OD600 value is 1.2-1.5 to obtain the Lactobacillus plantarum bacterial liquid.

[0033] Preferably, the inoculation amount of the Lactobacillus plantarum is 1-5% (V / V).

[0034] Preferably, the temperature of the anaerobic fermentation is 37±2° C., and the time of the anaerobic fermentation is 18-24 hours.

[0035] Preferably, the Lactobacillus plantarum is any one of ATCC BAA-793 and ATCC 10241.

[0036] As a preferred embodiment of the oil-control composition of the present invention, the preparation method of the medicinal porphyromonas extract comprises the following steps: drying and crushing the medicinal porphyromonas, adding the porphyromonas to a deep eutectic solvent, and ultrasonically extracting the porphyromonas; after the extraction is completed, the porphyromonas is allowed to stand and centrifuged, and the supernatant is collected and concentrated and dried to obtain the medicinal porphyromonas extract; the deep eutectic solvent comprises betaine and glycerol glucoside.

[0037] Preferably, the preparation method of the deep eutectic solvent comprises the following steps: mixing betaine and glycerol glucoside in a molar ratio of 1:(2-3), then stirring at 60-120° C. for 3-12 hours, and then adding ultrapure water to obtain a deep eutectic solvent; the mass percentage of water in the deep eutectic solvent is 20-70%.

[0038] Preferably, the mass volume ratio of the medicinal pore fungus and the deep eutectic solvent is 1 g: (10-50) mL.

[0039] Preferably, the ultrasonic extraction is performed at a temperature of 20-30° C., a power of 80-120 W, and a time of 0.5-1.5 h.

[0040] Preferably, the standing time is 20-28 hours.

[0041] The present invention has found that when the medicinal pore fungus extract is further selected to be prepared by the above-mentioned preparation method, the composition obtained after being applied to the composition has better regional oil control and moisturizing ability.

[0042] In a second aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides use of the oil control composition in preparing skin care products.

[0043] The oil-control composition provided by the present invention can achieve intelligent zoning oil control effects by targeted inhibition of sebaceous gland activity, regulation of keratin metabolism, and dynamic balancing of the water-lipid film through multi-pathway collaboration, reducing sebum secretion in oil-rich areas and enhancing the barrier moisturizing ability in dry areas, thereby achieving the combined effects of good oil control without drying out and gentle adaptation to sensitive skin; therefore, it can be widely used in the preparation of skin care products.

[0044] As a preferred embodiment of the application of the present invention, the skin care product includes any one of lotion, emulsion, cream, mask, essence, and spray.

[0045] In the third aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides a facial cream comprising the following components in mass percentage: 1-10% of the oil control composition of the present invention, 0.1-1% thickener, 0.5-5% moisturizer, 8-15% emulsifier, 0.01-0.3% pH regulator, 0.5-3% preservative, and the balance deionized water.

[0046] As a preferred embodiment of the facial cream of the present invention, the facial cream comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 4-6% of the oil-control composition of the present invention, 0.3-0.5% of a thickener, 0.8-1.2% of a moisturizer, 9-12% of an emulsifier, 0.18-0.22% of a pH regulator, 1.2-1.8% of a preservative, and the balance deionized water.

[0047] As a preferred embodiment of the facial cream of the present invention, the thickener includes at least one of polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, carbomer, carrageenan, gellan gum, xanthan gum, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gum, ethyl cellulose, tara gum, guar gum, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, and acrylic acid (ester) copolymers.

[0048] As a preferred embodiment of the facial cream of the present invention, the moisturizer includes at least one of glycerin, D-panthenol, vitamin B5, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,3-propylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, tremella polysaccharide, trehalose, betaine, allantoin, low molecular weight sodium hyaluronate, sodium polyacrylate, and hydrogenated lecithin.

[0049] As a preferred embodiment of the facial cream of the present invention, the emulsifier includes at least one of caprylic / capric triglyceride, C14-22 alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, isononyl isononanoate, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, polydimethylsiloxane, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearic acid, polymethylsilsesquioxane, pentaerythritol distearate, and sucrose stearate.

[0050] As a preferred embodiment of the facial cream of the present invention, the pH regulator includes at least one of arginine, disodium EDTA, tromethamine, and disodium EDTA.

[0051] As a preferred embodiment of the facial cream of the present invention, the preservative includes at least one of p-hydroxyacetophenone and polyol.

[0052] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0053] The present invention selects components in appropriate mass parts, and the components cooperate with each other to work together, which can effectively coordinate multiple pathways such as targeted inhibition of sebaceous gland activity, regulation of keratin metabolism, and dynamic balance of water-lipid film, thereby achieving good moisturizing and oil-control effects and enhancing the skin barrier capacity. At the same time, the composition provided by the present invention performs intelligent zoning oil control and moisturizing on the face, that is, establishing a dynamic balance mechanism of "oil control-moisturizing", reducing sebum secretion in oil-rich areas and enhancing the skin barrier moisturizing capacity in dry areas. Therefore, by using one product at the same time, intelligent zoning oil control and moisturizing can be achieved, and oil control can be achieved on the entire face without drying out. Moreover, the composition provided by the present invention is mild and non-irritating, and is suitable for sensitive skin. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0054] In order to better illustrate the purpose, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described below in conjunction with specific embodiments.

[0055] Unless otherwise specified, the reagents, methods, and equipment used in the present invention are all conventional reagents, methods, and equipment in the art; and unless otherwise specified, the raw materials used in parallel experiments are from the same batch of raw materials.

[0056] Niacinamide: purchased from Royal DSM of the Netherlands.

[0057] Panthenol: purchased from Royal DSM of the Netherlands.

[0058] Acetyl glucosamine: purchased from Bloomage Biotech Co., Ltd.

[0059] Glyceryl glucoside: purchased from Bitop GmbH, Germany.

[0060] Active ingredient 1 derived from medicinal pore fungus: a bidirectional fermentation product of medicinal pore fungus and Lactobacillus plantarum, homemade, and the preparation method includes the following steps:

[0061] (1) Lactobacillus plantarum (ATCC BAA-793) was inoculated into MRS liquid medium (purchased from Thermo Fisher Scientific) at an inoculum rate of 3% (V / V), and anaerobically fermented at 37°C for 20 h until the OD600 value reached 1.4 to obtain a Lactobacillus plantarum bacterial solution;

[0062] (2) The dried fruiting bodies of medicinal porphyra (purchased from Anhui Boman Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.) were crushed to 40 mesh and sterilized at 121°C for 15 minutes to obtain medicinal porphyra powder;

[0063] (3) Mixing medicinal porphyromonas powder and Lactobacillus plantarum liquid in a mass ratio of 1:2, adding 2% g / mL glucose and 0.05% g / mL magnesium sulfate based on the total volume of the medicinal porphyromonas powder and Lactobacillus plantarum liquid, and then anaerobically fermenting at 37°C for 60 hours to obtain a fermentation product;

[0064] (4) The fermentation product was precooled to 4°C and then circulated for 4 times using a microfluidizer at a pressure of 1200 bar, a stirring speed of 600 rpm, and a temperature of 25°C. After the circulatory treatment, the product was crushed and then centrifuged at a speed of 12000 g for 20 min. The supernatant was collected and vacuum-dried at 25°C to obtain the active ingredient 1 derived from medicinal porphyromonas.

[0065] Active ingredient 2 derived from medicinal porphyromonas: medicinal porphyromonas-Lactobacillus plantarum bidirectional fermentation product, homemade. The difference in preparation method from bidirectional fermentation product 1 is that the mass ratio of medicinal porphyromonas powder and Lactobacillus plantarum liquid is 1:4.

[0066] Active ingredient 3 derived from medicinal porphyromonas: medicinal porphyromonas-Lactobacillus plantarum bidirectional fermentation product, homemade. The difference between the preparation method and bidirectional fermentation product 1 is that the mass ratio of medicinal porphyromonas powder and Lactobacillus plantarum liquid is 1:0.3.

[0067] Active ingredient 4 derived from medicinal porphyromonas: a bidirectional fermentation product of medicinal porphyromonas and Lactobacillus plantarum, homemade. The difference between the preparation method and bidirectional fermentation product 1 is that the Lactobacillus plantarum is ATCC 10241.

[0068] Active ingredient 5 derived from medicinal porphyromonas: medicinal porphyromonas-Lactobacillus plantarum bidirectional fermentation product, homemade. The difference between the preparation method and the bidirectional fermentation product 1 is that a microfluidizer is used to circulate the treatment four times at a pressure of 1200 bar and a temperature of 45°C.

[0069] Active ingredient 6 from medicinal pore fungus: medicinal pore fungus extract, homemade, the preparation method includes the following steps: taking medicinal pore fungus dry powder (the sieve collected through an 80-mesh sieve) and a low eutectic solvent (betaine and glycerol glucoside are mixed in a molar ratio of 1:2 and stirred at 60°C for 3 hours, and then ultrapure water is added to obtain a low eutectic solvent with a water content of 30%) at a mass ratio of 1g:20mL, and then ultrasonically extracted at a power of 100W at 25°C for 60min, then allowed to stand for 24h and centrifuged at a speed of 6000rpm for 20min, finally the supernatant is concentrated and vacuum dried at 25°C to obtain the medicinal pore fungus extract.

[0070] Active ingredient 7 from medicinal pore fungus: homemade, the preparation method includes the following steps: taking the medicinal pore fungus dry powder and mixing it with 50% ethanol aqueous solution in a mass ratio of 1:15, ultrasonically extracting it at a power of 120 W at 60°C for 10 minutes, then centrifuging and taking the supernatant, concentrating it and vacuum drying it at 25°C to obtain the medicinal pore fungus extract.

[0071] Active ingredient 8 derived from medicinal porphyromonas: medicinal porphyromonas-Lactobacillus plantarum bidirectional fermentation product, homemade. The difference in preparation method from bidirectional fermentation product 1 is that yeast (ATCC 204508) is used instead of Lactobacillus plantarum.

[0072] Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-7

[0073] The Examples and Comparative Examples of the present invention provide an oil-control composition. The components (parts by weight) of the oil-control composition are shown in Table 1; wherein W represents the sum of the mass percentages of the active ingredient derived from medicinal pore fungi and panthenol, based on the total mass of the oil-control composition;

[0074] Table 1

[0075]

[0076]

[0077] The preparation method of the oil control composition provided in Example 1 is: mixing the components to obtain the oil control composition.

[0078] The preparation methods of the oil control compositions provided in Examples 2-6 and Comparative Examples 1-7 are consistent with that in Example 1; if relevant components are not present, they may be omitted.

[0079] Example 7

[0080] The present embodiment provides an oil-control composition. The only difference between the oil-control composition and Example 1 is that the active ingredient 2 derived from medicinal Fusarium spp. is used instead of the active ingredient 1 derived from medicinal Fusarium spp.

[0081] Example 8

[0082] The embodiment of the present invention provides an oil-control composition. The only difference between the oil-control composition and Example 1 is that the active ingredient 3 derived from medicinal Fusarium spp. is used instead of the active ingredient 1 derived from medicinal Fusarium spp.

[0083] Example 9

[0084] The present invention provides an oil-control composition according to an embodiment of the present invention. The only difference between the oil-control composition and Example 1 is that the active ingredient 4 derived from medicinal Fusarium spp. is used instead of the active ingredient 1 derived from medicinal Fusarium spp.

[0085] Example 10

[0086] The present embodiment provides an oil-control composition. The only difference between the oil-control composition and Example 1 is that the active ingredient 5 derived from medicinal Fusarium medicamentosum is used instead of the active ingredient 1 derived from medicinal Fusarium medicamentosum.

[0087] Example 11

[0088] The present invention provides an oil-control composition according to an embodiment of the present invention. The only difference between the oil-control composition and Example 1 is that the active ingredient 6 derived from medicinal Fusarium spp. is used instead of the active ingredient 1 derived from medicinal Fusarium spp.

[0089] Example 12

[0090] The embodiment of the present invention provides an oil-control composition. The only difference between the oil-control composition and Example 1 is that the active ingredient 7 derived from medicinal Fusarium spp. is used instead of the active ingredient 1 derived from medicinal Fusarium spp.

[0091] Comparative Example 8

[0092] The present invention provides an oil-control composition according to an embodiment of the present invention. The only difference between the oil-control composition and Example 1 is that the active ingredient 8 derived from medicinal Fusarium spp. is used instead of the active ingredient 1 derived from medicinal Fusarium spp.

[0093] Comparative Example 9

[0094] The comparative example of the present invention provides an oil control composition. The only difference between the oil control composition and Example 1 is that the active ingredient 1 derived from medicinal fusiformis is replaced by a lactobacillus / sagebrush fermentation product extract (purchased from Synsil, Inc., USA).

[0095] Comparative Example 10

[0096] The comparative example of the present invention provides an oil control composition. The only difference between the oil control composition and Example 1 is that niacin (purchased from Guangdong Ousman Biotechnology Co., Ltd.) is used instead of niacinamide.

[0097] Comparative Example 11

[0098] The comparative example of the present invention provides an oil control composition. The only difference between the oil control composition and Example 1 is that ubiquinone (purchased from Guangzhou Snoco Biotechnology Co., Ltd.) is used instead of panthenol.

[0099] Comparative Example 12

[0100] The comparative example of the present invention provides an oil control composition. The only difference between the oil control composition and Example 1 is that chitosan (purchased from Guangdong Ousman Biotechnology Co., Ltd.) is used instead of acetyl chitosan amine.

[0101] Comparative Example 13

[0102] The comparative example of the present invention provides an oil control composition. The only difference between the oil control composition and Example 1 is that cetearyl glucoside (purchased from Shaanxi Yinuo Biotechnology Co., Ltd.) is used instead of glycerol glucoside.

[0103] Application Examples 1-14, Comparative Application Examples 1-13, and Blank Application Examples

[0104] The application examples, comparative application examples, and blank application examples of the present invention provide a facial cream, the components (mass percentage) of which are shown in Table 2; wherein the oil control compositions used in Application Examples 1-12 are respectively the oil control compositions prepared in Examples 1-12, for example, the oil control composition used in Application Example 1 is the oil control composition of Example 1, the oil control composition used in Application Example 2 is the oil control composition of Example 2, and so on; the oil control compositions used in Comparative Application Examples 1-13 are respectively the oil control compositions prepared in Comparative Examples 1-13; and the oil control compositions used in Application Examples 13-14 are the oil control compositions prepared in Example 1;

[0105] Table 2

[0106]

[0107]

[0108] The preparation method of the cream provided in Application Example 1 comprises the following steps:

[0109] (1) Mix the humectant and thickening agent with water, stir, heat to 85±2℃, then homogenize at a speed of 1200 rpm for 4 min, and keep warm after homogenization for standby, to obtain a pre-prepared A component;

[0110] (2) Mix the emulsifier, heat to 85±2℃, then homogenize at a speed of 1200 rpm for 4 min, and keep warm after homogenization for standby, to obtain a pre-prepared B component;

[0111] (3) Mix the preservative, heat to 60±2℃ to melt, to obtain a pre-prepared C component;

[0112] (4) Warm the pre-prepared A component to 80±2℃, add the pre-prepared B component at a speed of 250 rpm, stir and mix, then cool to 60±2℃, add the pre-prepared C component at a speed of 250 rpm, stir and mix, then cool to 40℃, add the oil control composition, continue to stir for 8 min, finally add the remaining pH adjuster to adjust the pH to 6.0, stop stirring, discharge, to obtain the cream.

[0113] The preparation methods of the creams provided in Application Examples 2-14, Comparative Application Examples 1-13 and the Blank Application Example are consistent with those of Application Example 1, and no related components are added.

[0114] Effect Example 1

[0115] The effects of the oil control compositions prepared in Effect Example Exploring Examples 1-12 and Comparative Examples 1-13 are explored, including the following aspects:

[0116] 1. In vitro experiments prove that the oil control composition inhibits 5α-reductase, and the inhibitory ability in the T zone is higher than that in the U zone

[0117] The activity of sebaceous secretion is closely related to the activity of 5α-reductase. This enzyme can convert testosterone into dihydrotestosterone, directly stimulating sebaceous gland proliferation and lipid synthesis. Studies have shown that the density and activity of sebaceous glands in the T zone (forehead, nose) of the human face are significantly higher than those in the U zone (cheek), and the pH value is lower (the average pH value in the T zone is 5.1, and the average pH value in the U zone is 5.3), and the temperature is higher (the average temperature in the T zone is 34℃, and the average temperature in the U zone is 32℃). In this test, the inhibitory ability of the composition on 5α-reductase under different conditions was determined by simulating the temperature and pH value of the T zone and the U zone. The inhibitory ability of the composition on 5α-reductase in the T zone is higher than that in the U zone, which indicates that the composition can intelligently control oil in different zones. The test method is as follows:

[0118] (1) Preparation of experimental reagents: Weigh 1.00 g of the oil control composition prepared in the embodiment and the comparative example, dissolve them in phosphate buffer and dilute to 100 mL to obtain a sample working solution with a concentration of 1.0%; weigh 0.42 g of NADPH disodium salt powder, dissolve it in phosphate buffer and dilute to 100 mL to obtain a NADPH solution with a concentration of 5 mM; accurately weigh 5.8 mg of testosterone powder, dissolve it in 1 mL of DMSO, add phosphate buffer, and dilute to 100 mL to obtain a testosterone solution with a concentration of 0.2 mM; the above sample working solution, NADPH solution, and testosterone solution are dissolved in parallel and adjusted to pH 5.1 and 5.3, respectively, to simulate the pH conditions of the T zone and U zone;

[0119] (2) Reaction system: 1 mL of sample working solution, 1 mL of enzyme solution (5α-reductase concentration of 1 mg / mL, sourced from Guangdong Pharmaceutical University), 1 mL of NADPH solution, and 1 mL of testosterone solution were added to the sample group; 1 mL of phosphate buffer, 1 mL of enzyme solution, 1 mL of NADPH solution, and 1 mL of testosterone solution were added to the blank group;

[0120] (3) 5α-reductase inhibition rate test: Gently shake the solution in the test tube, pipette 200 μL and add it to a 96-well microplate. Place the plate in a microplate reader for detection. Measure the absorbance at 340 nm, which is the first measurement value A. 样品0 (sample group) and A 酶0 (Blank group); incubate at 34°C (T zone, pH value in the test tube is 5.1) or 32°C (U zone, pH value in the test tube is 5.3) for 20 minutes, then place in a microplate reader for detection, and measure the absorbance at 340 nm, which is the second measurement value A 样品20 (sample group) and A 酶20 (Blank group); Each sample was tested 3 times in parallel and the average value of the test was taken. The calculation formula is as follows:

[0121]

[0122] The results are shown in Table 3.

[0123] 2. In vitro experiments have shown that the combination regulates the lipid balance factor miR-29, and its regulatory ability in the T region is stronger than that in the U region

[0124] Studies have shown that microRNA-29 (miR-29) regulates oil metabolism through a negative feedback mechanism, that is, while external stimuli promote oil secretion, excess oil will in turn inhibit oil synthesis. Among them, members of the miR-29 family include miR-29a, miR-29b, and miR-29c. Although studies have shown that compositions containing medicinal porphyromonas extract can inhibit sebum secretion by upregulating miR-29 expression, no composition has been found that can promote sebum synthesis by downregulating miR-29 expression in the case of sebum deficiency. This experiment simulated the temperature and pH values ​​of the T zone and U zone to determine the composition's ability to regulate miR-29b under different conditions. The composition promoted miR-29b expression under T zone conditions and inhibited miR-29b expression under U zone conditions, indicating that the composition can intelligently control oil in different zones.

[0125] The cell line used was human sebaceous gland cell SZ95 (Shanghai Qingqi Biotechnology, BFN60807569), passaged 7 times. T-zone test conditions were: incubator temperature 34°C, medium pH 5.1, humidity 90±5%, and carbon dioxide 5±1%. U-zone test conditions were: incubator temperature 32°C, medium pH 5.3, humidity 50±5%, and carbon dioxide 5±1%. Cell culture was performed according to grouping and subsequently tested. Specifically, the test was for miR-29b expression. The test method is as follows:

[0126] (1) The cell suspension was inoculated into a 96-well cell culture plate at a density of 1.0*10 4 100 μL of DMEM medium (Gibco, C11965500BT) was added to each well and cultured for 18-24 h.

[0127] (2) The supernatant was discarded, 100 μL of culture medium was added to the control group, and 100 μL of culture medium containing 0.2% w / v (g / mL) of the composition prepared in the example and the comparative example was added to the sample group;

[0128] (3) After incubation for 48 h, the supernatant was discarded and the expression of miR-29b gene in human sebaceous gland cells of each group was detected by real-time fluorescence quantitative PCR, using U6 as the internal reference gene. The miR-29b primer sequences used were:

[0129] 5'-ACACTCCAGCTGGGTAGCACCATTTGAAATCAG-3',

[0130] 5'-CTCAACTGGTGTCGTGGA-3',

[0131] 5'-CTCAACTGGTGTCGTGGAGTCGGCAATTCAGTTGAGAACACTGAT-3';

[0132] The U6 primer sequences used are:

[0133] 5'-CTCGCTTCGGCAGCACA-3',

[0134] 5'-AACGCTTCACGAATTTGCGT-3',

[0135] 5′-AACGCTTCACGAATTTGCGT-3′.

[0136] The calculation formula is as follows:

[0137] miR-29b change rate = (miR-29b expression level 样品处理 miR-29b expression 空白对照 -1)*100%;

[0138] The results are shown in Table 3.

[0139] 3. In vitro experiments prove that the composition moisturizes in different areas

[0140] Experimental Methods: The cell model used was a human 3D epidermal skin model (Guangdong Boxi Biotechnology Co., Ltd.). T-zone testing conditions were: incubator temperature 34°C, culture medium pH 5.1, humidity 90±5%, and carbon dioxide 5±1%. U-zone testing conditions were: incubator temperature 32°C, culture medium pH 5.3, humidity 50±5%, and carbon dioxide 5±1%. The 3D epidermal models were cultured and processed according to grouping, followed by testing. Specifically, the test involved measuring skin moisture content. The test method is as follows:

[0141] (1) The 3D epidermal skin model was cultured using EpiGrowth culture medium (Guangdong Boxi Biotechnology Co., Ltd.) and cultured under T-zone and U-zone test conditions for 24 h.

[0142] (2) The blank control group was replaced with untreated EpiGrowth culture medium, and the sample group was replaced with EpiGrowth culture medium containing 0.1% g / mL of the corresponding sample (the oil control composition prepared in the examples and comparative examples), and cultured for 24 hours;

[0143] (3) Skin moisture content detection: The skin moisture content of the 3D epidermal model was measured using a skin moisture test probe, Corneometer.

[0144] The skin moisturizing ability of the composition is expressed by the rate of increase in skin moisture content, and the calculation formula is as follows:

[0145] Skin moisture content increase rate = (skin moisture content 样品组 / Skin moisture content 空白对照组 -1)*100%;

[0146] The results are shown in Table 3.

[0147] Table 3

[0148]

[0149]

[0150] As can be seen from Table 3, when the technical solution provided by the present invention is adopted, the obtained oil control composition has a good moisturizing and oil control effect, and can achieve intelligent zoning oil control and moisturizing; specifically, on the one hand, the inhibition rate of the obtained composition on 5α-reductase in the T zone is above 61.3%, and the growth rate of skin moisture content in the U zone is above 55.6%, that is, the composition has good moisturizing and oil control effects; on the other hand, the inhibition rate of the obtained composition on 5α-reductase in the U zone is below 41.5%, that is, the ratio of the T zone / U zone of the inhibition rate of the composition on 5α-reductase is above 1.6, and the obtained composition has different promoting and inhibiting effects on the lipid balance factor miR-29b in the T zone and the U zone. The change rate of the lipid balance factor miR-29 in the T zone is 59.3-122.5%, and the change rate of the lipid balance factor miR-29b in the U zone is (-60.1)-(-31.2)%, that is, the composition has an intelligent zoning oil control and moisturizing effect;

[0151] As can be seen from Examples 1-6, the mass fraction of the components and the mass percentage of two components in the composition will also affect the performance of the product. When the mass fraction of the components is further selected within the preferred range given in the present invention, the overall performance of the obtained product is better. Specifically, on the one hand, the obtained composition has an inhibition rate of 5α-reductase in the T zone of more than 75.6%, and an increase rate of skin moisture content in the U zone of more than 66.4%. On the other hand, the obtained composition has an inhibition rate of 5α-reductase in the U zone of less than 31.1%, a ratio of the T zone / U zone of the inhibition rate of 5α-reductase of the composition of more than 2.5, a change rate of the lipid balance factor miR-29b in the T zone of 88.5-122.5%, and a change rate of the lipid balance factor miR-29b in the U zone of (-44.8)-(-60.1)%. As can be seen from Examples 1 and 7-12, the preparation method of the active ingredient derived from medicinal fusiformis will also affect the performance of the product.

[0152] It can be seen from Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-7 that when one of the components is not added, or when it is not added and the other components are used to make up the difference, the effect of the present invention cannot be achieved; it can be seen from Example 1 and Comparative Examples 8-13 that when other similar ingredients are used instead, the corresponding effect of the present invention cannot be achieved.

[0153] Effect Example 2

[0154] The safety of the creams prepared by the application examples, comparative application examples and blank application examples of the present invention was investigated, specifically by using a human skin patch test to test:

[0155] Thirty volunteers, 15 men and 15 women aged 20-50, were recruited. A closed patch test method was used. Equal amounts (0.020 mL to 0.025 mL) of the test sample (cream prepared in the application example, comparative application example, and blank application example) were placed in a specific patch tester. The patch was then applied to the volunteer's arm with hypoallergenic tape, gently pressed to evenly adhere to the skin, and left in place for 24 hours. A blank control group received distilled water. After 24 hours, the patch tester was removed, and skin reactions were observed 0.5 hours, 24 hours, and 48 hours later, with the results recorded. The levels of adverse skin reactions are shown in Table 4 below.

[0156] Table 4

[0157]

[0158]

[0159] The results showed that the creams prepared in the application example, comparative application example and blank application example all showed negative reactions after human patch tests, and were safe and non-irritating to human skin.

[0160] Effect Example 3

[0161] The effect example of the present invention explores the application effect of the cream prepared by the application example, the comparative application example and the blank application example on the human body, comprising the following steps:

[0162] According to the "Technical Specifications for Safety of Cosmetics" (2015), 168 Asian adult testers aged 18-60 with mixed sensitive skin were selected and randomly divided into 28 groups, with 6 people in each group. The volunteers used samples (the samples were the creams prepared by Application Examples 1-14, Comparative Application Examples 1-13 and Blank Application Examples) on their entire faces once in the morning and evening every day, and visited the clinic to collect data on the 0th and 7th days of use. After the visit, the volunteers washed their faces with facial cleanser and sat quietly in an air-conditioned room with a temperature of 21±1°C and a humidity of 50±10% for 30 minutes. The researchers used a skin oil test probe (Sebumeter SM 815) to collect oil content data on the forehead (T zone) and cheekbones (U zone); used a skin moisture test probe Corneometer to measure the skin moisture content of the forehead and cheekbones; used a skin moisture loss test probe ( TM Hex) to measure the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of the forehead and cheekbones.

[0163] The oil control effect of the composition is represented by the improvement of the skin oil content, the skin moisturizing effect is represented by the improvement of the skin water content, and the barrier repair ability is represented by the improvement of the TEWL value. The formula is as follows:

[0164] Skin oil content improvement rate = (T0 样品组 -T7 样品组 ) / T0 样品组 *100%]-[(T0 空白应用例 -T7 空白应用例 ) / T0 空白应用例 *100%];

[0165] Skin moisture content improvement rate = (T7 样品组 -T0 样品组 ) / T0 样品组 *100%]-[(T7 空白应用例 -T0 空白应用例 ) / T0 空白应用例 *100%];

[0166] TEWL value improvement rate = (T0 样品组 -T7 样品组 ) / T0 样品组 *100%]-[(T0 空白应用例 -T7 空白应用例 )

[0167] / T0 空白应用例 *100%]

[0168] The results are shown in Table 5;

[0169] Table 5

[0170]

[0171]

[0172] As can be seen from Table 5, when the technical solution provided by the present invention is adopted, the obtained cream has a good moisturizing and oil-control effect, and can achieve intelligent zoning oil control and moisturizing; specifically, on the one hand, the obtained cream has an improvement rate of 30.8-42.7% on the skin oil content in the T zone, an improvement rate of 44.3-57.4% on the skin moisture content in the U zone, and an improvement rate of TEWL value in the T zone and U zone of 17.3-24.3% and 23.9-29.0%, respectively; on the other hand, the obtained cream has an improvement rate of 0.4-5.7% on the skin oil content in the U zone, and an improvement rate of 5.9-10.9% on the skin moisture content in the T zone;

[0173] As can be seen from Application Examples 1-6, the mass parts of the components in the composition and the mass percentages of two components in the composition will also affect the performance of the cream. When the mass parts of the components are further selected within the preferred range given in the present invention, the comprehensive performance of the resulting cream is better. Specifically, on the one hand, the improvement rate of the obtained cream on the skin oil content in the T zone is between 37.1-42.7%, the improvement rate on the skin moisture content in the U zone is between 50.9-57.4%, and the improvement rates on the TEWL values ​​in the T zone and U zone are between 20.6-24.3% and 25.3-29.0%, respectively. On the other hand, the improvement rate of the obtained cream on the skin oil content in the U zone is between 0.4-4.4%, and the improvement rate on the skin moisture content in the T zone is between 5.9-7.8%. As can be seen from Application Examples 1 and Application Examples 7-12, the preparation method of the active ingredient derived from medicinal fusiformis in the composition will also affect the performance of the cream.

[0174] It can be seen from Application Example 1 and Comparative Application Examples 1-7 that when one of the components is not added to the composition, or when it is not added and the number of other components is supplemented, the effect of the present invention cannot be achieved; it can be seen from Application Example 1 and Comparative Application Examples 8-13 that when other similar ingredients are used as substitutes, the corresponding effect of the present invention cannot be achieved.

[0175] Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are intended to illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention rather than to limit the scope of protection of the present invention. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that the technical solutions of the present invention may be modified or replaced by equivalents without departing from the essence and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.

Claims

1. An oil control composition, characterized in that: The oil control composition includes the following components in parts by weight: 1-8 parts of active ingredients derived from medicinal phytomycetes, 1-8 parts of niacinamide, 0.1-1 part of panthenol, 1-5 parts of acetyl glucosamine, and 0.1-1 part of glyceryl glucoside; The active ingredient derived from medicinal pore fungus includes at least one of a medicinal pore fungus extract and a medicinal pore fungus-Lactobacillus plantarum bidirectional fermentation product; The preparation method of the medicinal phytomycetes-Lactobacillus plantarum bidirectional fermentation product comprises the following steps: (1) mixing Lactobacillus plantarum liquid and medicinal pore fungus at a mass ratio of (0.5-3):1 and then performing anaerobically fermentation to obtain a fermentation product; (2) The fermentation product is cooled to 2-6°C and then circulated in a microfluidizer, finally crushed and centrifuged, and the supernatant is collected and dried to obtain a medicinal phytomycete-Lactobacillus plantarum bidirectional fermentation product; The preparation method of the medicinal fusilli extract comprises the following steps: drying and crushing the medicinal fusilli, adding the dried fusilli to a deep eutectic solvent, performing ultrasonic extraction, allowing the dried fusilli to stand after extraction, centrifuging, collecting the supernatant, and concentrating and drying the supernatant to obtain the medicinal fusilli extract; The deep eutectic solvent includes betaine and glycerol glucoside.

2. The oil control composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The oil control composition includes the following components in parts by weight: The invention comprises 3-5 parts of active ingredients derived from medicinal phyllophora, 3-5 parts of nicotinamide, 0.3-0.5 parts of panthenol, 2-3 parts of acetyl glucosamine and 0.3-0.5 parts of glycerol glucoside.

3. The oil control composition according to claim 1, characterized in that Based on the total mass of the oil-control composition, the sum of the mass percentages of the active ingredient derived from the medicinal pore fungus and panthenol is 38-40%.

4. The oil control composition according to claim 1, characterized in that In step (1), the temperature of the anaerobic fermentation is 37±2°C, and the time of the anaerobic fermentation is 48-72 hours; And / or, in the step (1), based on the total volume of the medicinal pore fungus and the Lactobacillus plantarum bacterial liquid, 1-3% g / mL of glucose and 0.03-0.07% g / mL of magnesium sulfate are added for anaerobic fermentation.

5. The oil control composition according to claim 1, characterized in that In the step (2), the pressure of the circulation treatment is 1000-1500 bar, the temperature of the circulation treatment is <40° C., and the number of circulation treatments is 3-5 times.

6. Use of the oil control composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in the preparation of skin care products.

7. A facial cream, characterized in that The facial cream comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 1-10% of the oil control composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, 0.1-1% of a thickener, 0.5-5% of a moisturizer, 8-15% of an emulsifier, 0.01-0.3% of a pH regulator, 0.5-3% of a preservative, and the balance deionized water.

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