Efficient moisturizing skin care product based on rose extracting solution and preparation method of efficient moisturizing skin care product

Abstract

The invention discloses a rose extracting solution moisturizing skin care product based on a composite enzymolysis-ultrasonic coupling extraction process, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. Rose raw materials are pretreated through cellulase (0.5-1.2 U / g) and pectinase (0.8-1.5 U / g) in a specific proportion, and the extraction rate of total flavonoids is increased to 92.3% + / -1.5% in combination with a 40 kHz ultrasonic oscillation extraction technology. The product formula comprises a triple dynamic moisturizing system (dipropylene glycol, panthenol, modified sodium hyaluronate and ceramide compound), the pH is adaptively adjusted to 4.8-5.2, the moisturizing rate in 24 hours reaches 82.3%, and the percutaneous moisture loss value (TEWL) is reduced to 12.4 g / h.m < 2 >. The technical problems that a traditional rose skin care product is high in active ingredient loss rate, short in moisturizing time and poor in sensitive skin applicability are solved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and specifically to a skin care product that realizes long-term moisturization by optimizing the rose extraction process and constructing a composite moisturizing system, and its preparation method, which is particularly suitable for the barrier repair needs of sensitive skin. Background Art

[0002] Rose extract is a natural plant essence extracted from roses (especially flower buds or petals) through distillation, soaking or other processes, and mainly contains water-soluble active ingredients such as polyphenols, vitamins, amino acids, flavonoid compounds, etc. According to different extraction processes, it can be divided into forms such as hydrosol (flower water), distillate or concentrate, and is widely used in cosmetics. Its main functions in cosmetics include deep moisturization and water locking, soothing and anti-allergic and repair, antioxidant and anti-aging, whitening and brightening and fading freckles.

[0003] Current rose skin care products have the following defects: 1. The traditional water extraction method results in a loss rate of flavonoids as high as over 40%, and the antioxidant components are not fully extracted; 2. A single moisturizing ingredient (such as glycerol) cannot achieve long-term water locking, and the skin water loss rate can reach 35% within 8 hours; 3. Improper pH adjustment (generally 5.5 - 6.5) leads to poor applicability for sensitive skin.

[0004] The Chinese invention patent with the application number 2020112405235 discloses a rose extract moisturizing cream and its preparation method. The raw materials of the rose extract moisturizing cream include an emulsifier, a co-emulsifier, glycerol, butanediol, dried rose flowers, rose fruits, and deionized water. It also includes a rose extract moisturizing cream and its preparation method. While not affecting the basic capabilities of the cream, by adding fatty acids and flavonoid compounds extracted from rose fruits and dried rose flowers respectively, the moisturizing and water replenishing effect of the cream is enhanced. Before adding, the fatty acids and flavonoid compounds are modified to maximize the moisturizing and water replenishing effect of the rose extract moisturizing cream. The present invention effectively improves the moisturizing and water replenishing ability by adding modified fatty acids and modified flavonoid compounds to the cream, and prepares a rose extract moisturizing cream with excellent moisturizing and water replenishing effects. Although it involves rose extracts, it does not solve the above problems and does not disclose dynamic moisturizing technical parameters. Summary of the Invention

[0005] In view of the deficiencies of the prior art, the present invention designs a highly moisturizing skin care product based on rose extract and its preparation method, realizing the synergistic effect of active ingredients, long-term water locking by a triple dynamic moisturizing system, and optimized stability and bioavailability.

[0006] To achieve the above object, the present invention provides the following technical solutions:

[0007] A moisturizing skin care product containing rose extract, comprising the following components (by weight percentage):

[0008] Rose extract 15 - 25%, and the extract is prepared by a composite enzymatic hydrolysis - ultrasonic coupling process, with a total flavonoid content ≥ 18 mg / g and a polysaccharide content ≥ 12%;

[0009] Dipropylene glycol 8 - 12%, panthenol 3 - 5%;

[0010] Sodium hyaluronate with a molecular weight of 80 - 120 kDa 0.2 - 0.5%;

[0011] A compound of ceramide NP 0.1 - 0.3% and phytosphingosine 0.05 - 0.1%;

[0012] pH regulator citric acid / sodium citrate buffer system to make the final product pH value 4.8 - 5.2.

[0013] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the preparation of the rose extract includes the following steps:

[0014] a) Crushing fresh rose petals to 50 - 80 mesh;

[0015] b) Adding a composite enzyme (cellulase 0.5 - 1.2 U / g + pectinase 0.8 - 1.5 U / g) to a citric acid buffer solution with a pH of 5.0, and enzymatically hydrolyzing at 45 - 50 °C for 1.5 - 2.5 h;

[0016] c) Performing ultrasonic treatment at 40 kHz for 20 - 40 min, with a power density of 100 - 150 W / L;

[0017] d) Membrane filtration and concentration to a solid content ≥ 20%.

[0018] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, it further contains 2 - 5% of a plant composite extract, and the composite extract is composed of centella asiatica extract and calendula officinalis extract in a weight ratio of 1:1 - 3.

[0019] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, 0.1 - 0.5% of ethylhexylglycerin is added as a stabilizer, and it is compounded with phenoxyethanol in a ratio of 2:1 - 4:1.

[0020] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, a method for preparing a moisturizing skin care product containing rose extract includes the following steps:

[0021] Heating the aqueous phase components to 70 - 80 °C for dissolution, homogenizing and emulsifying, and then cooling to 35 - 45 °C;

[0022] Adding the rose extract and preservative, and adjusting the pH to 4.8 - 5.2;

[0023] The homogeneous emulsification adopts a two-stage homogenization process: the first-stage homogenization pressure is 15 - 25 MPa, and the second-stage homogenization pressure is 5 - 10 MPa.

[0024] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, its moisturizing performance is verified by the following method:

[0025] Use CM825 to measure the change in the water content of the stratum corneum in 24 hours, and the test conditions are temperature 22 ± 1°C and humidity 50 ± 5%;

[0026] Calculate the moisturizing rate = (water content after use - initial water content) / initial water content × 100%, and it is required to be ≥ 75%.

[0027] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, an opaque vacuum pump bottle is adopted, and the inner wall is coated with a SiO nano-coating, and the oxygen transmission rate ≤ 0.05 cc / pkg·day.

[0028] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the dosage form is essence, lotion or gel. When it is gel, 0.5 - 1.2% of carbomer 940 is added as a thickener.

[0029] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the sodium hyaluronate is encapsulated by liposomes, the encapsulation rate ≥ 85%, and the average particle size is 80 - 120 nm.

[0030] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the application of the product in the preparation of cosmetics for improving skin barrier function and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

[0031] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are:

[0032] 1. Synergistic effect of active ingredients: Through the composite enzymatic hydrolysis-ultrasonic coupling extraction process (cellulase 0.5 - 1.2 U / g + pectinase 1.2 - 1.5 U / g, ultrasonic treatment at 40 kHz for 30 min), the total flavonoid content in the rose extract is increased to 18.4 mg / g (only 12.7 mg / g in the traditional process), the ellagic acid content reaches 350 - 460 mg / L, significantly enhancing the antioxidant capacity (DPPH free radical scavenging rate > 85%), and synergistically with the ceramide NP and phytosphingosine complex, increasing the lipid thickness of the stratum corneum by 23.6% (detected by confocal Raman spectroscopy).

[0033] 2. Triple dynamic moisturizing system for long-term water locking: Dipropylene glycol (10%) and panthenol (4%) form a small molecule penetration layer, and the water content of the stratum corneum is increased to 68.7 ± 2.8% within 24 hours ( test); Modified sodium hyaluronate (molecular weight 80 - 120 kDa) constructs a three-dimensional water locking network, and the transepidermal water loss value (TEWL) is reduced to 12.4 g / h·m 2, 34% less than the commercial competitors; the ceramide complex improves the skin barrier function score (TEWL + water content of the stratum corneum) by 41% by simulating the natural lipid structure.

[0034] 3. Optimization of stability and bioavailability: The compound preservative system of ethylhexylglycerin (0.2%) and phenoxyethanol (0.8%) has a total microbial count < 10 CFU / g in the accelerated test at 40°C / 75% RH (GB / T 29665 standard); Sodium hyaluronate encapsulated in liposomes (encapsulation efficiency ≥ 85%, particle size 80 - 120 nm) increases the transdermal absorption rate of the active ingredient by 1.8 times (Franz diffusion cell test). Brief Description of the Drawings

[0035] Figure 1 is the process flow diagram of the compound enzymatic hydrolysis - ultrasonic coupling extraction of the present invention;

[0036] Figure 2 is the comparison chart of the 24-hour moisturizing rate between the product of the present invention and commercial competitor A;

[0037] Figure 3 is the comparison chart of the TEWL values between the product of the present invention and commercial competitor A;

[0038] Figure 4 is the comparison chart of the skin elasticity improvement rate between the product of the present invention and commercial competitor A. Detailed Description of the Invention

[0039] Next, the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described in conjunction with the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, rather than all of the embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by those of ordinary skill in the art without making creative efforts belong to the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0040] The present invention provides a technical solution:

[0041] As Figures 1 - 4 shown, a moisturizing skin care product containing rose extract comprises the following components (by weight percentage):

[0042] Rose extract 15 - 25%, and the extract is prepared by a compound enzymatic hydrolysis - ultrasonic coupling process, with a total flavonoid content ≥ 18 mg / g and a polysaccharide content ≥ 12%;

[0043] Dipropylene glycol 8 - 12%, panthenol 3 - 5%;

[0044] Sodium hyaluronate with a molecular weight of 80 - 120 kDa 0.2 - 0.5%;

[0045] Complex of ceramide NP 0.1 - 0.3% and phytosphingosine 0.05 - 0.1%;

[0046] pH regulator citric acid / sodium citrate buffer system to make the final product pH value 4.8 - 5.2.

[0047] Furthermore, the preparation of the rose extract includes the following steps:

[0048] a) Crush fresh rose petals to 50 - 80 mesh;

[0049] b) Add complex enzyme (cellulase 0.5 - 1.2 U / g + pectinase 0.8 - 1.5 U / g) to citric acid buffer solution with pH 5.0, and enzymatically hydrolyze at 45 - 50 °C for 1.5 - 2.5 h;

[0050] c) Perform ultrasonic treatment at 40 kHz for 20 - 40 min, with power density 100 - 150 W / L;

[0051] d) Membrane filter and concentrate to solid content ≥20%.

[0052] Furthermore, it also contains 2 - 5% of plant complex extract, and the complex extract is composed of centella asiatica extract and calendula officinalis extract in a weight ratio of 1:1 - 3.

[0053] Furthermore, add 0.1 - 0.5% of ethylhexylglycerin as a stabilizer, and compound it with phenoxyethanol in a ratio of 2:1 - 4:1.

[0054] Furthermore, its moisturizing performance is verified by the following method:

[0055] Use CM825 to measure the change in stratum corneum water content in 24 hours, and the test conditions are temperature 22 ± 1 °C and humidity 50 ± 5%;

[0056] Calculate the moisturizing rate = (water content after use - initial water content) / initial water content × 100%, and it is required to be ≥75%.

[0057] Furthermore, use a light - proof vacuum pump bottle with an inner wall plated with SiO nano - coating, and the oxygen transmission rate ≤0.05 cc / pkg·day.

[0058] Furthermore, the dosage form is essence, lotion or gel. When it is gel, add 0.5 - 1.2% of carbomer 940 as a thickener.

[0059] Furthermore, the sodium hyaluronate is encapsulated by liposome, with an encapsulation efficiency ≥85% and an average particle size of 80 - 120 nm.

[0060] The present invention also provides a technical solution: a method for preparing a moisturizing skin care product with rose extract, comprising the following steps:

[0061] Heat the aqueous phase components to 70 - 80 °C for dissolution, homogenize and emulsify, and then cool to 35 - 45 °C;

[0062] Add rose extract and preservative, and adjust the pH to 4.8 - 5.2;

[0063] The homogenization and emulsification adopt a two - stage homogenization process: the first - stage homogenization pressure is 15 - 25 MPa, and the second - stage homogenization pressure is 5 - 10 MPa.

[0064] According to the above technical solution, the present invention also provides a technical solution: the application of the product in the preparation of cosmetics for improving skin barrier function and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

[0065] Example 1: Essence formula (weight percentage)

[0066] Component Content range Preferred embodiment Rose extract 15-25％ 20％ Dipropylene glycol 8-12％ 10％ Panthenol 3-5％ 4％ Sodium hyaluronate 0.2-0.5％ 0.3％ Ceramide NP 0.1-0.3％ 0.2％ Plant complex extract* 2-5％ 3％ Preservative (phenoxyethanol) 0.5-1％ 0.8％ Deionized water Balance 61.7％ *Plant complex extract: Centella asiatica extract: Calendula officinalis extract = 1:2 (w / w)

[0067] Preparation method:

[0068] 1. Preparation of rose extract:

[0069] Raw material treatment: Take fresh rose petals (water content ≤ 8%) and crush them to 60 meshes;

[0070] Enzymolysis: Add citric acid buffer solution with pH 5.0 according to the solid - liquid ratio of 1:15, add a composite enzyme (cellulase 1.0 U / g + pectinase 1.2 U / g), and react at 45 °C for 2 h;

[0071] Ultrasonic - assisted extraction: Perform ultrasonic treatment at 40 kHz for 30 min (power density 120 W / L);

[0072] Purification: Filter through a 0.22 - μm ceramic membrane and concentrate to a solid content of 25%.

[0073] 2. Preparation of the finished product:

[0074] Heat the aqueous phase components (dipropylene glycol, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate) to 75 °C for dissolution;

[0075] Slowly add the oil - phase components (ceramide, plant extract premix), and homogenize and emulsify (5000 rpm × 10 min);

[0076] After cooling to 40 °C, add rose extract and preservative, and adjust the pH to 4.9.

[0077] Example 2: Moisture - retaining performance test

[0078]

[0079] Although embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be understood by those of ordinary skill in the art that various changes, modifications, substitutions and variations can be made to these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is defined by the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims

1. A moisturizing skin care product made from rose extract, characterized in that, Comprising the following components (by weight percentage): Rose flower extract 15 - 25%, said extract is prepared by a composite enzymatic hydrolysis - ultrasonic coupling process, with its total flavonoid content ≥ 18 mg / g and polysaccharide content ≥ 12%; Dipropylene glycol 8 - 12%, panthenol 3 - 5%; Sodium hyaluronate with a molecular weight of 80 - 120 kDa 0.2 - 0.5%; A compound of ceramide NP 0.1 - 0.3% and phytosphingosine 0.05 - 0.1%; pH regulator citric acid / sodium citrate buffer system to make the final product pH value 4.8 - 5.

2.

2. The moisturizing skin care product with rose extract according to claim 1, characterized in that The preparation of the rose flower extract includes the following steps: a) Crushing fresh rose petals to 50 - 80 mesh; b) Adding a composite enzyme (cellulase 0.5 - 1.2 U / g + pectinase 0.8 - 1.5 U / g) to a citric acid buffer solution with pH 5.0, enzymatically hydrolyzing at 45 - 50 °C for 1.5 - 2.5 h; c) Ultrasonic treatment at 40 kHz for 20 - 40 min, with a power density of 100 - 150 W / L; d) Membrane filtration and concentration to a solid content ≥ 20%.

3. The moisturizing skin care product with rose extract according to claim 1, characterized in that, It also contains 2 - 5% of a plant composite extract, said composite extract is composed of centella asiatica extract and calendula officinalis extract in a weight ratio of 1:1 - 3.

4. The moisturizing skin care product with rose extract according to claim 1, characterized in that Adding 0.1 - 0.5% of ethylhexylglycerin as a stabilizer, compounded with phenoxyethanol in a ratio of 2:1 - 4:

1.

5. A preparation method of a rose flower extract moisturizing skin care product as claimed in claim 1, comprising the following steps: Heating the aqueous phase components to 70 - 80 °C for dissolution, homogenizing and emulsifying, and then cooling to 35 - 45 °C; Adding the rose flower extract and preservatives, adjusting the pH to 4.8 - 5.2; Said homogenizing and emulsifying adopts a two - stage homogenization process: the first - stage homogenization pressure is 15 - 25 MPa, and the second - stage homogenization pressure is 5 - 10 MPa.

6. The moisturizing skin care product with rose extract according to claim 1, characterized in that Its moisturizing performance is verified by the following method: Usage CM825 measures the change in stratum corneum water content over 24 hours under the test conditions of temperature 22 ± 1 °C and humidity 50 ± 5%. Calculating the moisturizing rate = (water content after use - initial water content) / initial water content × 100%, and it is required to be ≥ 75%.

7. The moisturizing skin care product with rose extract according to claim 1, characterized in that Using a light - proof vacuum pump bottle, with an inner wall coated with a SiO nano - coating, and the oxygen transmission rate ≤ 0.05 cc / pkg·day.

8. The moisturizing skin care product with rose extract according to claim 1, characterized in that, The dosage form is essence, lotion or gel. When it is gel, adding 0.5 - 1.2% of carbomer 940 as a thickener.

9. The moisturizing skin care product with rose extract according to claim 1, characterized in that Said sodium hyaluronate is encapsulated by liposomes, with an encapsulation efficiency ≥ 85% and an average particle size of 80 - 120 nm.

10. Use of the product as claimed in any one of claims 1 - 9 in the preparation of a cosmetic for improving skin barrier function and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Images