Cosmetic composition containing ascorbic acid, specific cationic polymer and at least one oxyalkylenated derivative

Abstract

The object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising: at least 30 wt% of water relative to the total weight of the composition; at least 5% ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one cationic polymer selected from the group consisting of a cationic galactomannan gum and a cationic cellulose polymer modified with a group containing at least one linear aliphatic chain; and, at least 0.2 wt% of an oxyalkylenated derivative of formula (I); the pH of the composition is between 5 and 7, preferably between 5.5 and 6.5. Another object of the invention is a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials using this composition.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a transparent or opaque aqueous cosmetic composition comprising ascorbic acid, at least one cationic polymer and at least one specific oxyalkylenated derivative of formula (I), wherein the at least one cationic polymer is chosen from cationic galactomannan gums and cationic cellulose polymers modified with groups containing at least one linear fatty chain. Background Art

[0002] In cosmetic applications, ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is often added as an active ingredient to regenerate the skin by stimulating collagen synthesis, which is responsible for skin firmness, or as a depigmenting agent, as it reduces the production of melanin, which causes brown spots. Ascorbic acid is also known for its antioxidant properties.

[0003] However, when ascorbic acid is introduced into an aqueous medium (emulsion or serum) at high concentrations (e.g., greater than 5 wt %, preferably greater than 10 wt %), its formulation is difficult to prepare because the ascorbic acid is unstable and significantly changes color. This color change results in a brownish coloration, which is unacceptable to consumers. Furthermore, these serum or gel solution-type aqueous compositions have the disadvantage of being sticky when spread on the skin, which is unsatisfactory for consumers.

[0004] This is why the serums or aqueous solutions found on the market contain ascorbic acid in powdered form for immediate dissolution. The disadvantage of such products is that the vitamin C eventually degrades in the aqueous medium. Consequently, these products lose their appeal, as consumers, for practical reasons, prefer serums that require no prior manipulation and guarantee color stability and no chemical degradation.

[0005] There is therefore a need for an aqueous cosmetic composition comprising ascorbic acid which is stable, i.e. which retains the same colour (generally white) and the same texture as at the beginning, does not degrade the active ingredient, and which has satisfactory organoleptic properties for the user, in particular an acceptable tack effect when the composition is applied to the skin. Summary of the Invention

[0006] Surprisingly, the Applicant has demonstrated that specific oxyalkylenated derivatives make it possible to obtain compositions comprising at least one specific cationic polymer and ascorbic acid, the ascorbic acid being present in particular in high concentrations higher than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly higher than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, which compositions have sensory properties when applied, such as an acceptable tack effect when spread on keratin materials such as the skin, and which are especially stable over time and temperature.

[0007] Therefore, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0008] at least 30 wt% of water relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0009] at least 5% of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0010] at least one cationic polymer selected from cationic galactomannan gums and cationic cellulose polymers modified with groups containing at least one linear fatty chain, and

[0011] At least 0.2 wt% of an oxyalkylenated derivative of the following formula (I):

[0012] Z-{O(AO) l (EO) m -(BO) n H} a (I)

[0013] in

[0014] Z represents a group obtained by eliminating one or more hydroxyl groups from a compound containing 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups,

[0015] AO represents an oxyalkylene group containing 3 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0016] EO represents oxyethylene,

[0017] BO represents an oxyalkylene group containing 4 carbon atoms,

[0018] a ranges from 3 to 9;

[0019] l, m and n represent the average molar number of AO, EO and BO units, respectively, and 1≤l≤50, 1≤m≤50 and 0.5≤n≤5;

[0020] The weight ratio of AO to EO (AO / EO) ranges from 1 / 5 to 5 / 1,

[0021] The pH of the composition is between 5 and 7.

[0022] The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention.

[0023] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is an aqueous solution, more preferably an aqueous solution with a slightly gelled appearance. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is a single-phase composition. Such a composition may be referred to as a "serum". "Serum" is understood to be a composition having a fluid texture, a slightly gelled appearance, and fluid and preferably concentrated ascorbic acid (i.e., preferably at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid, more particularly at least 10% by weight of ascorbic acid).

[0024] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of surfactants. "Substantially free of surfactants" is understood to mean that the composition according to the invention has a surfactant concentration lower than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably lower than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the surfactant may consist of peptisers at a concentration between 0.1% and 2% by weight; peptisers are capable of dissolving small amounts of oils or compounds or lipophilic active ingredients or fragrances (i.e., fragrance or oil or lipophilic compound concentrations between 0.05% and 2%).

[0025] Aqueous phase

[0026] The composition according to the invention comprises water, which forms the aqueous phase.

[0027] The water used may be: sterile demineralized water; and / or floral water, such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water; and / or spring water or natural mineral water.

[0028] Preferably, the composition comprises at least 30 wt% of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] Preferably, the composition comprises: 30 wt% to 93 wt%, more preferably 50 wt% to 90 wt%, more preferably 55 wt% to 85 wt% of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] The aqueous phase may also comprise at least one organic solvent which is water-soluble at 25°C.

[0031] Preferably, the water-soluble organic solvent is selected from alcohols, polyols, and mixtures thereof.

[0032] Among the alcohols, C1-C 10 , more preferably C1-C5 alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

[0033] Preferably, the polyol is chosen from polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, isopentyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol; polyethylene glycol having 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units; and mixtures thereof.

[0034] Preferably, the water-soluble organic solvent is selected from polyols, preferably glycerol and / or hexylene glycol and / or pentylene glycol.

[0035] In a specific embodiment, the composition comprises: 1 wt% to 25 wt%, more particularly 2 wt% to 30 wt%, even more particularly 5 wt% to 20 wt% of a water-soluble organic solvent relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a polyol, preferably caprylyl glycol, in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, more particularly from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] ascorbic acid

[0038] Preferably, ascorbic acid in the context of the present invention corresponds to L-ascorbic acid or vitamin C. As for the structure, the ascorbic acid has formula (A):

[0039]

[0040] The composition according to the invention comprises: at least 5 wt% (i.e. the concentration of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition is higher than or equal to 5 wt%), preferably at least 7 wt% and more preferably at least 10 wt% of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] Preferably, the composition comprises: 5 wt% to 30 wt%, preferably 10 wt% to 20 wt%, more preferably 7 wt% to 15 wt% of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] As shown in the examples, surprisingly, the composition according to the invention, in particular comprising 12% by weight of ascorbic acid, 0.4% of polyquaternium-67 and 1% of an oxyalkylened derivative of formula (I) according to the invention (such as PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerol), has good tack properties upon application. According to the tack effect rating scale (assessed 45 seconds after application) ranging from 1 (not tack) to 5 (very tack), the composition according to the invention scored 2.1, which is lower than the comparative composition comprising 12% by weight of ascorbic acid in water (score 2.35), which is an acceptable tack property upon application.

[0043] Oxidized alkylene derivatives

[0044] The composition according to the invention comprises: at least 0.2 wt % of an oxyalkylenated derivative of formula (I) defined below, relative to the total weight of the composition (i.e. the concentration of the oxyalkylenated derivative of formula (I) is higher than or equal to 0.2 wt % relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0045] The oxyalkylene derivative used in the present invention satisfies the following formula (I):

[0046] Z-{O(AO) l (EO) m -(BO) n H} a (I)

[0047] in

[0048] Z represents a group obtained by eliminating one or more hydroxyl groups from a compound containing 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups;

[0049] AO represents an oxyalkylene group containing 3 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0050] EO represents oxyethylene;

[0051] BO represents an oxyalkylene group containing 4 carbon atoms;

[0052] a ranges from 3 to 9;

[0053] l, m and n represent the average molar number of AO, EO and BO units, respectively, and 1≤l≤50, 1≤m≤50 and 0.5≤n≤5;

[0054] The weight ratio of AO to EO (AO / EO) ranges from 1 / 5 to 5 / 1.

[0055] In the composition according to the invention, it is possible to use oxyalkylenated derivatives or mixtures of identical or different oxyalkylenated derivatives.

[0056] In the oxyalkylenated derivative of formula (I), Z represents a group obtained by eliminating one or more hydroxyl groups of a compound containing 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, and a represents the number of hydroxyl groups of the derivative and ranges from 3 to 9.

[0057] As examples of compounds containing 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, when a=3, glycerol and trimethylolpropane can be mentioned; when a=4, erythritol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, alkyl glycosides, diglycerol can be mentioned; when a=5, xylitol can be mentioned; when a=6, dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, inositol can be mentioned; when a=8, sucrose and trehalose can be mentioned; when a=9, maltitol can be mentioned; or mixtures of the compounds.

[0058] Preferably, Z represents a group obtained by eliminating a hydroxyl group of a compound containing 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, and 3≤a≤6. As preferred compounds containing 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, glycerol or trimethylolpropane may be mentioned, especially glycerol.

[0059] When a is less than or equal to 2, the compatibility between the oxyalkylenated compound and the fatty phase of the composition (such as oil and fat) is low, and the stability of the mixture in oil-based formulations is affected.

[0060] When a is greater than or equal to 10, a viscous effect is observed.

[0061] AO represents an oxyalkylene group containing 3 to 4 carbon atoms. For example, AO may represent an oxypropylene, an oxybutylene (oxy-n-butylene, oxy-isobutylene or oxy-tert-butylene) group, an oxytrimethylene group, an oxytetramethylene group, or a mixture thereof. Preferably, AO is selected from an oxypropylene group and / or an oxybutylene group, and more preferably selected from an oxypropylene group.

[0062] l represents the average molar number of AO units, and is 1≤1≤50, preferably 2≤1≤20.

[0063] m represents the average number of moles of EO units, and is 1≤m≤50, preferably 2≤m≤20. When l=0, a sticky effect is noted; on the other hand, when l exceeds 50, the moisturizing effect of compound (I) decreases.

[0064] Furthermore, when m is equal to 0, the moisturizing effect 50 is weakened, and when m exceeds 50, a sticky effect is noticed.

[0065] The weight ratio of AO to EO (AO / EO) ranges from 1 / 5 to 5 / 1, and preferably from 1 / 4 to 4 / 1. When the ratio is less than 1 / 5, a sticky effect is noticed; when the AO / EO ratio exceeds 5 / 1, the moisturizing effect is weakened.

[0066] The order of addition of the AO and EO units is not critical, the AO and EO units can be added statistically or in sequential form (blocks). In order to obtain an improved effect on the protection against skin drying, it is preferred to add AO and EO statistically.

[0067] BO represents an oxyalkylene group containing 4 carbon atoms and can be selected, for example, from an oxybutene group (such as oxy-n-butene, oxy-iso-butene or oxy-tert-butene), an oxytetramethylene group, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, BO is selected from an oxybutene group.

[0068] n represents the average molar number of BO units, and is 0.5≤n≤5, preferably 0.8≤n≤3, and more preferably 1≤n≤3.

[0069] When n is less than 0.5, a sticky effect is observed, and when n exceeds 5, the moisturizing effect is weakened.

[0070] In formula (I), unit (BO) n It must be bonded to the terminal hydrogen atom of the oxyalkylenated derivative.

[0071] The oxyalkylenated derivatives of formula (I) can be prepared by known methods, for example, by addition polymerization of ethylene oxide and an alkylene oxide containing 3 to 4 carbon atoms to a compound containing 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, followed by reaction with ethylene oxide containing 4 carbon atoms.

[0072] During the addition polymerization of ethylene oxide and alkylene oxide containing 3 to 4 carbon atoms onto the compound comprising 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, the ethylene oxide and alkylene oxide groups can be polymerized statistically or in the form of blocks.

[0073] Among the oxyalkylenated derivatives of formula (I), mention may be made especially of the oxyalkylenated derivative represented by the following formula (II) (polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol):

[0074] Gly-[O(PO) s (EO) t -(BO) u H]3(II)

[0075] in:

[0076] Gly represents a group obtained by eliminating a hydroxyl group of glycerol;

[0077] PO represents an oxypropylene group;

[0078] EO represents an oxyethylene group;

[0079] s and t represent the average molar numbers of PO and EO units, respectively, and have values ranging from 1 to 50;

[0080] The weight ratio of PO to EO units (PO / EO) ranges from 1 / 5 to 5 / 1;

[0081] BO represents an oxyalkylene group containing 4 carbon atoms; and

[0082] u represents the average molar number of BO units and ranges from 0.5 to 5.

[0083] The oxyalkylenated derivative of the above formula (II) can be obtained by addition polymerization of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide to glycerol in a ratio of 3 to 150 molar equivalents of each of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide relative to glycerol, and then by adding an alkylene oxide containing 4 carbon atoms in a ratio of 1.5 to 15 molar equivalents relative to glycerol.

[0084] The addition reaction of the alkylene oxide with glycerol can be carried out in the presence of a basic catalyst, a phase transfer catalyst, a Lewis acid catalyst or an equivalent. Typically, a basic catalyst is used, preferably potassium hydroxide.

[0085] Among the oxyalkylenated derivatives of formula (I) or (II), preference is given to derivatives obtained by adding 6 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide and 3 to 7 mol of propylene oxide and then 2 to 4 mol of butylene oxide to glycerol.

[0086] As a preferred oxyalkylenated derivative of formula (I) or (II), mention may be made of polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene 8 / 5 / 3 glycerol, which is obtained by the addition reaction of 8 mol of ethylene oxide and 5 mol of propylene oxide onto glycerol, followed by the addition of 3 mol of butylene oxide, and whose INCI name is PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerol. PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerol is commercially available from NOF Corporation under the reference WILBRIDE S-753.

[0087] The oxyalkylenated derivatives of formula (I) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a concentration ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 4% by weight and more preferably from 0.8% to 1.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] Selected from cationic galactomannan gums and cationic galactomannan gums modified with groups containing at least one linear fatty chain Cationic polymers of cellulose polymers

[0089] The cationic polymer according to the invention is chosen from cationic galactomannan gum (cationic guar gum) and cationic cellulose polymers modified with groups containing at least one linear fatty chain (preferably polyquaternium-67).

[0090] In fact, these polymers contribute particularly to the stability of the composition.

[0091] The cationic polymer according to the present invention may be a cationic galactomannan gum (cationic guar gum). "Cationic galactomannan gum" is understood to be any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and / or ionizable to cationic groups.

[0092] Galactomannans are polysaccharides composed primarily of galactose and mannose units, in which the mannose units are linked by 1-4 glycosidic bonds and the galactose branches are formed by 1-6 bridges with mannose units. Each ring of a galactose or mannose unit (or sugar unit) has three free hydroxyl groups available for chemical reactions. Galactomannans are commonly found in the endosperm of seeds of legumes such as guar or carob.

[0093] Preferred cationic groups are selected from cationic groups including primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amino groups.

[0094] The cationic galactomannan gum used generally has a density between 500 and about 5×10 6 and preferably between 10 3 and about 3×10 6 The average molecular mass by weight is between

[0095] For example, cationic galactomannan gums that can be used according to the invention are gums containing (C1-C4) trialkylammonium cationic groups. Preferably, 2% to 30% of the number of hydroxyl functional groups of these gums carry trialkylammonium cationic groups.

[0096] Among the trialkylammonium groups, mention may especially be made of trimethylammonium and trialkylammonium groups.

[0097] Still more preferably, these groups comprise 5 wt% to 20 wt% of the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

[0098] According to the present invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum comprising hydroxypropyltrialkylammonium groups, more preferably a guar gum comprising hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium groups, ie for example a guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

[0099] It is known that these galactomannan gums modified with cationic groups, in particular guar gum, have been produced and are described, for example, in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307. In addition, such products are sold by the company Rhodia under the trade names Jaguar EXCEL, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) and by the company Degussa under the name Guar (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) is sold as well as by Aqualon under the name N- 3000 (Guar Hydroxypropyl Triammonium Chloride) for sale.

[0100] The cationic polymer according to the invention may alternatively be a cationic cellulose polymer modified with groups containing at least one linear fatty chain. In the context of the present invention, "cationic cellulose polymer" refers to any non-silicone cellulose polymer (containing no silicon atoms) which contains cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups, and preferably does not contain anionic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0101] According to the present invention, a "cellulose" polymer is understood to be any polysaccharide compound having in its structure a sequence of at least 20 glucose residues linked by β-1,4 bonds. Cellulose polymers may be associative, i.e. having in their structure at least one C8-C 30 Fat chains.

[0102] Preferably, cationic cellulose polymers having a molecular weight between 5000 and about 5.10 6 between, preferably between 10 3 and about 3.10 6 The average molar mass (Mw) by weight between

[0103] Among the cationic celluloses, mention may more especially be made of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups, modified with groups containing at least one linear fatty chain.

[0104] Among the quaternized celluloses, mention may especially be made of quaternized cellulose modified with a radical containing at least one linear fatty chain, such as a linear alkyl radical, a linear or branched aralkyl radical, a linear alkaryl radical, preferably a linear alkyl radical, these radicals comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 24 or even 10 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0105] Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose modified with a radical comprising at least one linear fatty chain, such as a linear alkyl radical, a linear aralkyl radical, a linear alkaryl radical, preferably a linear alkyl radical, these radicals comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 24 or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0106] Preferably, mention may be made of hydroxyethylcellulose of formula (Ib):

[0107]

[0108] in:

[0109] R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN + -Q - , wherein Ra, Rb, Rc are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C30 straight-chain alkyl group, preferably an alkyl group, and Q- represents an anionic counterion, such as a halide ion, for example, a chloride ion or a bromide ion;

[0110] R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN + -Q' - , wherein R'a, R'b, R'c are the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C30 straight-chain alkyl group, and Q'- represents an anionic counterion, such as a halide ion, such as a chloride ion or a bromide ion; preferably an alkyl group;

[0111] It is understood that at least one of the groups Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a C8-C30 straight-chain alkyl group;

[0112] n, x, and y are the same or different and represent integers between 1 and 10,000.

[0113] Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a C8-C30, more preferably a C10-C24 or even a C10-C14 straight-chain alkyl radical; mention may be made especially of a dodecyl (C12) radical. Preferably, all other radicals represent a C1-C4 straight-chain alkyl radical, especially a methyl radical.

[0114] Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a C8-C30, more preferably a C10-C24 or even a C10-C14 straight-chain alkyl radical; dodecyl (C12) may be mentioned in particular. Preferably, all other radicals represent a C1-C4 straight-chain alkyl radical, especially a methyl radical.

[0115] More preferably, R may be selected from -N + (CH3)3,Q' - and -N + (C 12 H 25 )(CH3)2,Q' - A group, preferably -N + (CH3)3,Q' - group.

[0116] More preferably, R' can be -N + (C 12 H 25 )(CH3)2,Q' - group.

[0117] The nitrogen percentage may vary from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer.

[0118] In particular, mention may be made of the polymers having the following INCI names:

[0119] Polyquaternium-24, such as the product commercialized by AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL as QUATRISOFT LM

[0120] PG-hydroxyethylcellulose dimethylcobalt chloride, such as the product CRODACEL

[0121] PG-hydroxyethylcellulose lauryldimonium chloride (C12 alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL as well as

[0122] PG-hydroxyethylcellulose stearyldimonium chloride (C18 alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL Commercialized by CRODA.

[0123] Mention may also be made of hydroxyethylcellulose of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide; preferably, R represents trimethylammonium chloride Cl - ,(CH3)3N + - and R' represents dimethyl dodecyl ammonium chloride Cl - ,(CH3)2(C 12 H 25 )N + -. This polymer type is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as a commercial product, mention may be made of the polymer SOFTCAT POLYMER of the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL. Such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30, SL-5 and SX-1300X.

[0124] More particularly, the cationic cellulose polymer is chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose that has been reacted with trimethylammonium epoxy and dimethyllaurylammonium epoxy (INCI name: Polyquaternium-67).

[0125] Preferably, it is commercialized by Amerchol under the name Softcat Polymer SL-100 or Softcat Polymer SX-1300X.

[0126] Preferably, the cationic polymer is chosen from guar gum containing trialkylammonium cationic groups and quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose modified with a group containing at least one linear fatty chain; preferably chosen from guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt and hydroxyethylcellulose of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide

[0127]

[0128] And preferably chosen from guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and hydroxyethylcellulose which has been reacted with epoxytrimonium and epoxydimethyllaurylammonium (INCI name: Polyquaternium-67).

[0129] The total concentration of active substance of cationic polymers present in the composition according to the invention will preferably range from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 4% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0130] pH of the composition

[0131] The pH of the composition according to the invention is between 5.0 and 7.0. Advantageously, the pH of the composition is between 5.5 and 6.5.

[0132] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one base.

[0133] The base is especially used to increase the final pH of the composition to between 5.0 and 7.0, preferably between 5.5 and 6.5.

[0134] The base may be chosen from mineral bases, for example alkali metal hydroxides, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0135] Preferably, the base of the composition is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide. In fact, these bases are more favorable in terms of color stability (ie less yellowing) than nitrogenous bases (such as triethanolamine).

[0136] Preferably, the base of the composition according to the invention is present in a base:ascorbic acid weight ratio of 0.2 to 0.3.

[0137] The composition may further comprise one or more additives conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, such as active ingredients, chelating agents, preservatives or fragrances.

[0138] Among the active ingredients that can be used, preferably adenosine, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide (vitamin B3), tocopherol or also fragrances are preferred.

[0139] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one chelating agent.

[0140] Among the preferred chelating agents, mention may be made of ethylenediamine disuccinate.

[0141] Ethylenediamine disuccinic acid is a compound of formula (II):

[0142]

[0143] Preferably, the ethylenediamine disuccinate is selected from alkali metal salts, such as potassium and sodium salts, ammonium salts and amine salts. More particularly, alkali metal salts of ethylenediamine disuccinate are preferred.

[0144] Preferably, the ethylenediamine disuccinate used according to the present invention is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.

[0145] For example, this compound is produced by Innospec Active Chemicals under the brand The compound commercialized by E30 or also by Octaquest is manufactured by Octel Performance Chemicals. Commercial compounds.

[0146] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises: 0.01 wt% to 2.5 wt%, preferably 0.05 wt% to 1.5 wt%, more preferably 0.07 wt% to 0.3 wt% of ethylenediamine disuccinate relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0147] It will be understood that the concentration of ethylenediamine disuccinate corresponds to the concentration of active matter (so-called dry matter) of ethylenediamine disuccinate introduced into the composition.

[0148] According to a particular variant, ethylenediamine disuccinate may be dissolved in water and introduced into the composition in particular at a solubility in water ranging from 25% to 50% by weight, preferably from 35% to 40% by weight.

[0149] For example, this compound is produced by Innospec Active Chemicals under the brand E30 is commercialized at 37 wt% in water.

[0150] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one preservative.

[0151] Among the preferred preservatives, mention may be made of hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0152] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1 wt% to 2 wt%, preferably from 0.2 wt% to 1.5 wt%, more preferably from 0.4 wt% to 0.8 wt% of preservative relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0153] Finally, the invention also relates to a cosmetic method for cleansing keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0154] Specific but non-limiting examples will now be provided to illustrate the present invention.

[0155] Unless otherwise stated, “between… and…” and “ranging from… to…” or “at least…” must be understood as including the limit values.

[0156] Example

[0157] In the examples, the pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise stated. Unless otherwise specified, percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (% w / w).

[0158] Example 1: Composition according to the invention

[0159] Composition A according to the invention and comparative compositions B and C hereinbelow were prepared according to the following protocol:

[0160] In a first beaker: introduce water (about 60° C.) and add the ingredients of phase A in the following order: caprylyl glycol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, hydroxyacetophenone.

[0161] Once everything is dissolved and the phase is clear with no crystals, cool to room temperature.

[0162] Add the previous phase: Polyquaternium-67 with moderate to long stirring to ensure efficient distribution of the polymer.

[0163] Ascorbic acid was introduced by sprinkling it onto the formulation.

[0164] Add baking soda diluted in water while adjusting the pH between 5.8 and 6

[0165] Where appropriate, PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerin or PPG-26-buteth-26 (and) PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil were introduced with stirring.

[0166] [Table 1]

[0167]

[0168]

[0169] Protocol A / Measurement of the reduction of the sticky effect of a fresh formulation upon application: The evaluation was performed 45 seconds after application of the sticky substance by a panel of 10 experts in the laboratory, trained to replicate the standardized evaluation method including the extreme formulations (rating scale from 1 to 5, 1 being not sticky and 5 being very sticky).

[0170] The protocol for evaluating the adhesive effect is as follows: 50 μl of product is applied to the back of one hand covered with a film simulating skin characteristics. Using three fingers of the other hand (index, middle, and ring fingers), rotate the product 15 times for 15 seconds. Then, wait 15 seconds and rotate it 15 times again for 15 seconds.

[0171] At the end of 45 seconds, the tack effect was assessed by tactile assessment using the applicator's finger, touching twice.

[0172] Whether the skin is adherent or not is assessed on a scale of 1 to 5, with 1 being not sticky and 5 being very sticky. The assessment is performed by a panel of at least 10 experts.

[0173] Rub your fingers between each product with a cloth dampened with hot water.

[0174] When an improvement of at least 5%, preferably at least 6%, more preferably at least 9% is observed in the score, it is considered to have an improved stickiness effect compared to the reference product (in this case, the reference composition not comprising PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerol).

[0175] 45 seconds after application of composition A according to the invention comprising 1% PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerol, the score for the sticky effect is significantly reduced, from 2.35 to 2.1 (over 9%), compared to composition B not comprising PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerol (not part of the invention).

[0176] The score of the sticky effect 45 seconds after application of composition C (not part of the invention) containing 1% of PPG-26-Buteth-26 (and) PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil did not decrease significantly; from 2.35 to 2.25 (<5%) compared to reference B (composition not part of the invention) not containing PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerol.

[0177] Thus, surprisingly, the composition according to the invention comprising 1 wt% of PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerol significantly reduces the sticky effect when applying an aqueous composition comprising a high concentration of ascorbic acid (12 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition) and a cationic polymer such as polyquaternium-67, compared to a composition not comprising an oxyalkylened derivative of formula (I) according to the invention (composition B).

[0178] Composition A according to the invention has good adhesive properties when applied to the skin.

[0179] Protocol B / The reduction in the sticky effect of fresh formulations A and C upon application was measured according to the following protocol: 15 and 30 seconds after application of the sticky substance, the evaluation was carried out by a panel of 10 experts in the laboratory, trained to replicate the standardized evaluation method including the extreme formulations (rating scale 1 to 5, 1 being not sticky and 5 being very sticky).

[0180] The protocol for evaluating the sticky effect is as follows: 50 μl of product is applied directly to the back of one hand (directly on the skin). Use three fingers (index, middle and ring fingers) of the other hand to rotate 15 times for 15 seconds, and evaluate the stickiness by tactile sensation at 15 seconds, touching twice. Use the applicator's finger to complete the sticky effect evaluation at 15 seconds. Wipe the finger between each product with a cloth moistened with hot water and then dry it. Then, wait 15 seconds and evaluate the stickiness by tactile sensation at 30 seconds, touching twice.

[0181] Whether the skin is adherent or not is assessed on a scale of 1 to 5, with 1 being not sticky and 5 being very sticky. The assessment is performed by a panel of at least 10 experts.

[0182] Use a cloth dampened with hot water to scrub your fingers between applications.

[0183]

[0184] The adhesive effect is considered to be significantly improved compared to the reference product when an improvement of at least 5%, preferably at least 6%, more preferably at least 9% is observed.

[0185] Compared to composition C (not part of the present invention) containing 1% of PPG-26-Buteth-26 (and) PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, 15 seconds after application of composition A according to the invention containing 1% of PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerol, the score for the sticky effect is significantly reduced by 28%: the score is reduced from 1.6 to 1.15 (an improvement of at least 9%).

[0186] Compared to composition C, 30 seconds after application of composition A according to the invention, the stickiness effect score was significantly reduced by 17.6%; the score was reduced from 2.8 to 2.3 (an improvement of at least 9%).

[0187] Furthermore, a soaping effect was observed for the entire panel for comparative composition C, whereas no soaping effect was observed for composition according to the invention A. "Saponifying effect" means that the composition "slides" upon application.

[0188] In summary, the composition A according to the invention has a good reduction in sticky properties (ie an improvement in sticky properties) when applied on the skin.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: at least 30 wt% of water relative to the total weight of the composition, at least 5% of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one cationic polymer selected from cationic galactomannan gums and cationic cellulose polymers modified with groups containing at least one linear fatty chain, and At least 0.2 wt% of an oxyalkylenated derivative of the following formula (I): Z-{O(AO) l (E.O.) m -(BO) n H} a (I) in Z represents a group obtained by eliminating one or more hydroxyl groups from a compound containing 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, AO represents an oxyalkylene group containing 3 to 4 carbon atoms, EO represents oxyethylene, BO represents an oxyalkylene group containing 4 carbon atoms, a ranges from 3 to 9; l, m and n represent the average molar number of AO, EO and BO units, respectively, and 1≤l≤50, 1≤m≤50 and 0.5≤n≤5; The weight ratio of AO to EO (AO / EO) ranges from 1 / 5 to 5 / 1; The pH of the composition is between 5 and 7.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The composition comprises: 30 wt% to 93 wt%, more preferably 50 wt% to 90 wt%, still more preferably 55 wt% to 85 wt% of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that The composition comprises at least one water-soluble organic solvent at 25° C., the organic solvent being selected from alcohols, polyols, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from C1-C10, more preferably C1-C5 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol; and polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isopentyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,3-propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycol having 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units; and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that The composition comprises: at least 10 wt % of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition comprises: 5 wt % to 30 wt %, preferably 10 wt % to 20 wt %, more preferably 7 wt % to 15 wt % of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that The cationic polymer is chosen from guar gum containing trialkylammonium cationic groups and quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with a group containing at least one linear fatty chain; preferably chosen from guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt and hydroxyethyl cellulose of formula (Ib), wherein R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide [Chemical Formula 2] And preferably chosen from guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and hydroxyethylcellulose which has been reacted with epoxytrimonium and epoxydimethyllaurylammonium (INCI name: Polyquaternium-67).

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that The composition comprises: relative to the total weight of the composition, 0.05 wt% to 5 wt%, more preferably 0.3 wt% to 4 wt%, still more preferably 0.1 wt% to 0.5 wt% of the cationic polymer active material.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that The oxyalkylene derivative is selected from the compounds of the following formula (II): Gly-[O(PO) s (E.O.) t -(BO) u H]3(II) in: Gly represents a group obtained by eliminating a hydroxyl group of glycerol; PO represents an oxypropylene group; EO represents an oxyethylene group; s and t represent the average molar numbers of PO and EO units, respectively, and have values ranging from 1 to 50; The weight ratio of PO to EO units (PO / EO) ranges from 1 / 5 to 5 / 1; BO represents an oxyalkylene group containing 4 carbon atoms; and u represents the average molar number of BO units and ranges from 0.5 to 5.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The oxyalkylened derivative is selected from polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene 8 / 5 / 3 glycerol (INCI name: PEG / PPG / Polybutylene Glycol-8 / 5 / 3 Glycerol).

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that The oxyalkylenated derivative is present in a concentration of 0.2 to 10 wt %, preferably 0.2 to 4 wt % and more preferably 0.8 to 1.2 wt % relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that The pH of the composition is between 5.5 and 6.

5.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that The composition comprises at least one base, preferably, the base of the composition is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, and more preferably sodium hydroxide.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that The composition comprises at least one additive selected from the group consisting of active ingredients, chelating agents, preservatives and fragrances; preferably, the composition comprises at least one chelating agent and / or at least one preservative, the at least one chelating agent being selected from ethylenediamine disuccinate, and the at least one preservative being preferably selected from the group consisting of hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

13. A cosmetic method for cleaning keratinous materials, preferably skin, comprising: A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 is applied to the keratin material.

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