Pattern-making and material-arranging method for chest-waist fitting type clothes based on three-dimensional plane collaboration

Abstract

The invention relates to the field of costume design and production, and particularly discloses a three-dimensional plane synergy-based chest-waist fit type costume pattern making and discharging method, which comprises the following steps of S1, cutting piece structure design: S1.1, extracting a curve contour of a yoke on a chest through three-dimensional cutting, and dividing an upper garment into a front middle cutting piece, a front side cutting piece, a rear side cutting piece and a rear middle cutting piece by adopting a plane pattern making technology, the edge of each cutting piece is designed to be trapezoidal or arc-shaped; s1.2, the transverse width of the yoke on the chest is adjusted, the front center line and the side seam are each retracted by 1 cm and totally retracted by 4 cm, and the cutting piece is made to be attached to the curve of the chest; according to the invention, through modular arrangement unit construction (such as a quasi-rectangular unit) and a wave-shaped nested arrangement method, the same-size arrangement rate is greater than or equal to 97.7%, the continuous-size arrangement rate is greater than or equal to 97.4%, and the jump-size arrangement rate is greater than or equal to 96.7%, which are obviously higher than the utilization rate of 80-85% of a traditional arrangement method; the allowance area is supplemented through the decoration processes such as pleating and I-shaped pleats, the material utilization rate of the local area is 100%, fabric waste is reduced, and the zero-waste design requirement is met.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the field of clothing design and production, and in particular relates to a pattern making and laying-out method for chest-waist fitted clothing based on three-dimensional plane collaboration. Background Art

[0002] The apparel industry is the world's second-largest source of pollution. Traditional cutting methods generate as much as 15%-20% of fabric waste annually, accompanied by excessive carbon emissions and resource consumption. Against this backdrop, "Zero Waste Fashion Design," as a systematic solution, has gradually become a core issue in the sustainable fashion sector. Its core concept is to achieve efficient resource utilization throughout the entire process, from fabric cutting and manufacturing to the product lifecycle, through design innovation, thereby driving the apparel industry's transition towards a low-carbon, circular economy.

[0003] Zero-waste design not only has significant environmental value, but also places higher demands on the functionality of clothing. Traditional zero-waste technology focuses more on flat cutting (such as square pieces and rectangular layouts). Although it can improve fabric utilization, it often comes at the expense of the fit of the clothing. Especially in chest-waist fitted clothing, how to balance the distribution of pleats and the fit of the human body curve has become the key to breaking through the design bottleneck. Studies have shown that when the chest circumference is less than 4cm, the clothing is prone to feel restrictive; and excessive reliance on pleating may lead to redundant fabrics, deviating from the original intention of zero waste. Therefore, exploring the dynamic relationship between pleating technology and fit is not only an innovation of the traditional design paradigm, but also provides theoretical support for achieving the unity of "aesthetics-function-sustainability".

[0004] At present, there are relatively few studies on zero-waste waist-fitting clothing at home and abroad. After putting aside the "one-piece molding" clothing, the mainstream design scheme at home and abroad is still to sacrifice some curve accuracy to make the clothing pieces look like pieces of patchwork. Figure 1 The "jigsaw puzzle" nesting method with closely arranged patterns; the curved segmentation method combining curved darts with bias cutting of fabrics (such as spiral cutting); or the use of tying, pleating and other methods to process the chest and waist margins to achieve the purpose of chest and waist fitting.

[0005] However, only a limited amount of literature has explored the material utilization rate of zero-waste waist-fitting garments, necessitating analogies based on similar zero-waste garments. In the Indonesian Sengkang woven apparel project, waist pleats and geometric cutting combined with traditional craftsmanship reduced the waste rate of waist-fitting ethnic clothing from 53% to 8.12%, resulting in a material utilization rate of 91.88%. For sportswear, for example, the zero-waste cutting (ZWPC) technique developed by Shreshta Ramkalaon et al. (2021) achieves fabric utilization rates of 98.51% and 98.35%, respectively, for hooded T-shirts (non-fitting garments) and sweatpants (fitted at the waist) in multiple sizes (S, M, and L). However, the fabric utilization rate of denim bras in multiple size nesting is only 89.01%, far lower than the material utilization rate of loose-fitting garments. Summary of the Invention

[0006] In order to solve the above technical problems, the present invention provides a pattern making and laying-out method for chest-waist fitted clothing based on three-dimensional plane collaboration, so as to solve the problem that traditional pattern making methods in the prior art mostly adopt linear arrangement or simple geometric arrangement, have poor adaptability to complex curved pieces, and the fabric utilization rate is usually only 80%-85%, and a large amount of surplus material is discarded.

[0007] A method for pattern making and laying out of chest-waist fitted garments based on three-dimensional plane collaboration comprises the following steps:

[0008] S1. Cutting piece structure design:

[0009] S1.1. Use draping to extract the curvilinear contours of the chest yoke. Use flat pattern-making techniques to divide the top into the center front, side front, side back, and center back panels. Design the edges of each panel to be trapezoidal or curved.

[0010] S1.2. Adjust the horizontal width of the chest yoke, indenting the front centerline and side seams by 1 cm each, for a total of 4 cm, so that the piece fits the chest curve.

[0011] S1.3. Calculate the sum of the bottom lengths of all panels to verify that they meet the waist fit requirements.

[0012] S2 cutting optimization and modularization:

[0013] S2.1. Based on the standard size M (160 / 84A), set the horizontal width of the chest yoke to 44cm, leaving space for a chest pad.

[0014] S2.2. The garment pieces are nested into rectangular nesting units with trapezoidal or curved edges. The unit size is 44 cm × 10.5 cm (width × height).

[0015] S3, same size layout:

[0016] S3.1. Align the three chest yoke panels in a bidirectional, weft-wise staggered pattern, spacing them 44 cm in the horizontal direction and 2 cm in the vertical direction.

[0017] S3.2. Nest the jacket pieces into three rectangular units, arranging them in a straight line along the weft direction, with adjacent units seamlessly connected. The total width is 134.2 cm, leaving a 5.8 cm seam allowance, ensuring the total width does not exceed 140 cm.

[0018] S3.3. The skirt pieces are grouped into front center, front side, back side, and back center groups. The total width of each group of pieces is 114.1 cm. The total length of the three groups is 126 cm, and the allowance area is 25.9 cm × 126 cm.

[0019] S4. Utilization and decoration design of margin area:

[0020] S4.1. Cut a 6 cm × 124 cm rectangular decorative piece from the allowance area and form a neckline decoration by pleating.

[0021] S4.2. Add an 18cm x 138cm rectangular piece for the ruffle design of the hem. After calculating the seam allowance, the total width is 144cm, achieving a 100% material utilization rate for the part.

[0022] S5. Multi-size grading and mixed nesting:

[0023] S5.1. Generate XS, S, M, L, and XL size cutting data based on fixed crotch differences (bust 4cm, waist 3cm, waist joint 0.5cm, skirt length 2cm);

[0024] S5.2. For pieces of continuous size (S, M, L) or skip size (XS, M, XL), replace and nest the pieces to ensure the same width of 113.5cm ± 0.5cm.

[0025] S5.3. Verify that the total width of the multi-size nesting does not exceed 140 cm and the nesting rate is not less than 95%;

[0026] S6. Industrial Verification and Optimization:

[0027] S6.1. Use blank fabric to make sample garments and verify the chest and waist fit after the pieces are joined and the feasibility of the decorative process;

[0028] S6.2. Use 3D virtual fitting technology to simulate the wearing effect of clothing and optimize the distribution of gaps between cutting pieces;

[0029] S6.3. Output digital nesting files to support automatic cutting equipment to execute according to the optimized path.

[0030] Preferably, in step S3.1, the transverse width of the chest yoke is scaled proportionally according to the size difference, and sizes XS to XL are 40cm, 42cm, 44cm, 46cm, and 48cm respectively, and the distance between breasts is 0.5cm.

[0031] Preferably, when the decorative pieces in the excess area of the skirt are supplemented by the I-shaped pleat process in step S3.3, a rectangular piece of 6 cm×138 cm needs to be cut with a seam allowance of 1 cm.

[0032] Preferably, when the multiple-size pieces are replaced and nested in step S5.2, the waist length of the front center skirt piece increases by 1 cm, and the sizes from XS to XL are 12.4 cm, 13.4 cm, 14.4 cm, 15.4 cm, and 16.4 cm, respectively.

[0033] Preferably, the digital nesting file in step S6.3 is generated by CAD software, and the spacing between the cut pieces is automatically optimized to within 0.3 cm.

[0034] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0035] Through modular nesting unit construction (such as rectangular units) and wave-shaped nesting methods, the nesting rate of the same size is ≥97.7%, the continuous size is ≥97.4%, and the skip size is ≥96.7%, which is significantly higher than the 80%-85% utilization rate of traditional nesting methods;

[0036] The excess area is supplemented by decorative techniques such as pleating and I-shaped pleats, achieving a 100% material utilization rate in some areas, reducing fabric waste and meeting zero-waste design requirements;

[0037] Combining three-dimensional cutting and flat pattern making technology, the width of the chest yoke is adjusted (the front center line and side seams are indented 4cm in total) to ensure that the cut piece fits the chest curve (the gap is ≤0.5cm);

[0038] Through 3D virtual fitting, the gap between the center panels is optimized to 0.3cm, improving the fit of the chest and waist area and avoiding the bagginess or tightness common in traditional clothing.

[0039] The cut pieces are regular in shape (90% are trapezoidal / rectangular), with a uniform seam width of 1cm, suitable for mass production on high-speed sewing machines, reducing manual adjustment costs.

[0040] Digitally output CAD nesting files, automatically optimize the spacing between cutting pieces to within 0.3cm, support efficient execution of automatic cutting equipment, and reduce human errors. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0041] Figure 1 is a flow chart of the method of the present invention;

[0042] Figure 2This is a schematic diagram of the layout of the wavy material arrangement and the margin area of the chest yoke of the present invention;

[0043] Figure 3 Schematic diagram of the wavy layout and rectangular units of the chest yoke of the present invention;

[0044] Figure 4 This is a schematic diagram of the skirt grouping arrangement and margin area design of the present invention;

[0045] Figure 5 Schematic diagram of the arrangement of decorative panels in the margin area and high material utilization rate of the present invention;

[0046] Figure 6 This is a schematic diagram of the wave-shaped arrangement and unit layout of the continuous-size chest yoke of the present invention;

[0047] Figure 7 This is a schematic diagram of the grouping arrangement of multiple-size skirt pieces and the adaptation of the margin area;

[0048] Figure 8 This is a schematic diagram showing the verification of the continuous size arrangement effect and high material utilization rate of the present invention;

[0049] Figure 9 This is a schematic diagram of the skip-number wave-type arrangement and margin adaptation optimization of the present invention;

[0050] Figure 10 This is a schematic diagram of a blank experiment of the present invention;

[0051] Figure 11 This is a schematic diagram of the 3D virtual fitting of the present invention;

[0052] Figure 12 It is a schematic diagram of an actual product of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0053] The following will clearly and completely describe the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. Obviously, the described embodiments are only part of the embodiments of the present invention, not all of the embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by ordinary technicians in this field without making creative efforts are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0054] Example 1: Zero-waste pattern making and laying-out method for a bustier A-skirt with a fitted chest and waist shape based on three-dimensional plane collaboration

[0055] Step 1: Cutting piece structure design and optimization

[0056] (1) Combination of three-dimensional cutting and flat pattern making:

[0057] Using 3D cutting technology, we extracted the chest yoke curve of a size M (160 / 84A) and determined its initial horizontal width to be 44cm (including the space reserved for the chest pad).

[0058] The top is divided into 7 pieces through flat pattern making: front center, front side (2 pieces), back side (2 pieces) and back center (2 pieces). The bottom lengths of each piece are 14.4cm (front center), 9.75cm (front side), 9.53cm (back side), and 7.25cm (back center), totaling 67.5cm. This is to verify that the waist fit is met.

[0059] Adjust the width of the chest yoke: bring the front center line and side seams in by 1cm each, for a total of 4cm, to fit the chest curve.

[0060] Step 2: Modular nesting unit construction

[0061] (1) Nested design of top pieces:

[0062] The back piece is nested with the trapezoidal edges to form an arc outline, and then combined with the trapezoidal edges of the front piece to form a rectangular nesting unit (size 44cm×10.5cm);

[0063] The three units are arranged in a straight line along the weft direction of the fabric (140cm width), with a spacing of 2cm. The total width is 134.2cm (including 5.8cm seam allowance), ensuring that the width of the fabric is not exceeded.

[0064] (2) Skirt pieces grouped and arranged:

[0065] The skirt pieces are grouped into front center (1 piece), front side (2 pieces), back side (2 pieces), and back center (2 pieces). The total width of each group is 114.1cm (including seam allowance), the total length of the three groups is 126cm, and the margin area is 25.9cm×126cm.

[0066] Step 3: Decorative design of margin area

[0067] (1) Neckline pleating process:

[0068] Cut a 6cm x 124cm rectangular piece from the allowance area and use pleating to form the neckline decoration. The total width after calculating the seam allowance is 24cm x 126cm.

[0069] (2) Supplementary hem ruffles:

[0070] Two 18cm×138cm rectangular pieces are cut for the hem ruffles. After addition, the total size of the decorative area is 144cm×140cm, achieving a local 100% material utilization rate.

[0071] Step 4: Multi-size grading and mixed nesting

[0072] (1) Grading parameter setting:

[0073] Crotch difference: bust 4cm, waist 3cm, waist section 0.5cm, skirt length 2cm, breast distance 0.5cm;

[0074] Generate cutting piece data for sizes XS (150 / 76A) to XL (170 / 92A), for example, the widths of the chest yoke are 40cm, 42cm, 44cm, 46cm, and 48cm, respectively.

[0075] (2) Continuous size arrangement (S / M / L):

[0076] Replace and nest different size pieces to ensure the same piece width and maintain 113.5cm±0.5cm;

[0077] The top part uses staggered layout to increase the material utilization rate to 91.7%. The total layout width is 136cm, and the margin of 4cm is used for seam allowance.

[0078] (3) Skip-number nesting (XS / M / XL):

[0079] By adjusting the spacing between the cutting pieces, the size difference between the XS and XL cutting pieces is balanced to ensure that the total width does not exceed 140cm and the material utilization rate is 96.7%.

[0080] Step 5: Industrial Validation and Optimization

[0081] (1) White blank experiment:

[0082] Use 140cm wide white grey fabric to make a sample garment and verify the chest and waist fit after the panels are joined (gap ≤ 0.5cm) and the feasibility of the pleating process;

[0083] (2) 3D virtual fitting:

[0084] The wearing effect of the garment was simulated using CLO3D software, and the gap between the center panel curves was optimized to 0.3cm.

[0085] (3) Digital output:

[0086] Generate CAD nesting files, automatically optimize the spacing between cutting pieces to within 0.3cm, and support automatic cutting equipment execution.

[0087] Verify the results

[0088] Discharge rate: The discharge rate of the same size is 97.7%, the continuous size is 97.4%, and the skip size is 96.7%, all of which meet the zero waste design (≥95%).

[0089] Industrial adaptation: The cut pieces are regular in shape (90% are trapezoidal / rectangular), with a uniform seam width of 1cm, suitable for mass production on high-speed sewing machines;

[0090] Cost saving: Compared with traditional nesting methods, fabric utilization rate is increased by 15%-20%.

[0091] Example 2: Extended application of decoration technology

[0092] When supplementing the I-shaped pleat process in the excess area, a 6cm×138cm rectangular piece is cut with a 1cm seam allowance, and an I-shaped pleat decoration is formed by folding. After supplementation, the utilization rate of the excess area reaches 100%, and the pleats are evenly distributed (each pleat is 2cm apart).

[0093] Example 3: Basic style clothing structure design and nesting experiment

[0094] Strapless A-line skirt

[0095] The top part still uses the top structure of the geometric multi-piece fishtail skirt, and the width of the chest yoke is retracted 1cm from the front center line and the side seam, that is, the chest yoke is retracted 4cm in total to better fit the chest curve. According to the bottom edge of the front center piece (14.4cm), the bottom edge of the front side piece (9.75cm), the bottom edge of the back side piece (9.53cm) and the bottom edge of the back center piece (7.25cm), a seven-piece small A-type skirt is made with a length of 40cm. At this time, the horizontal width of the chest yoke is 44cm (the tube top style needs to reserve a chest pad position), which meets the chest fit requirements. The sum of the lengths of the bottom edges of the tops is 67.5cm, which meets the waist fit requirements, thus proving that the basic version is established. Figure 1 shown.

[0096] Based on the size of the basic version of size M (160 / 84A), combined with the principle of wave-shaped nesting, we can derive the minimum width required for nesting multiple garments of the same size. That is, three size M chest yoke pieces need to be staggered in both directions on the same straight line in the weft direction. The sum of the chest yoke widths and the seam allowance can be calculated to be at least 138cm in fabric width (but due to the different body curves and piece sizes, 140cm is still used for subsequent calculations). At the same time, considering that the top pieces need to be nested, the arc formed by nesting the back pieces in a trapezoidal structure can form another curved nesting with the arc of the tube top neckline. The same is true for the front pieces. After nesting and arranging using the trapezoidal structure, they are combined with the lower straight line of the chest yoke to form a quasi-rectangular nesting unit. The three units are arranged on the same straight line in the weft direction, thus forming a wave-shaped nesting. The material utilization rate of the top part here is 91.2%. At the same time, in addition to the chest yoke structure, after the trapezoidal pieces on both sides are nested, taking into account the seam allowance, the theoretical total width should be 134.2cm and 133.6cm. However, due to the influence of the human body curve and the shape of the pieces, some pieces are not tightly nested and there will be a certain amount of space. Therefore, the actual width of the pieces is close to but less than 140cm, which meets the nesting requirements. Figure 2 shown.

[0097] After completing the layout of the top part, the skirt part is laid out. The skirt structure is still trapezoidal or rectangular, which meets the conditions for nested layout. One front center skirt piece, two front side skirt pieces, two back side skirt pieces, and two back center skirt pieces are grouped together. Three sets of M size clothing have three groups in total. After calculating the seam allowance, the total width of each group of pieces is 114.1cm, and the total length of the three groups of pieces is 126cm. Therefore, there is a 25.9cm*126cm margin area in the skirt layout area for clothing shape design, such as Figure 3 shown.

[0098] The decoration of the tube top neckline is designed in this margin area, that is, a 6cm*124cm rectangular long piece. The neckline is given more design sense by means of pleating (only this piece is needed) or I-shaped pleats (a 6cm*138cm rectangular piece needs to be cut behind the skirt piece area to supplement it). After calculating the seam allowance, the sum of the three pieces is a 24cm*126cm rectangle, which satisfies the supplement of the margin space in the skirt piece layout area and reserves a certain amount of space for subsequent consecutive number layout and skip number layout. At this time, the material utilization rate has reached 95.7%, meeting the requirements of zero waste design.

[0099] Under the premise of meeting the zero waste requirement, the skirt part and the neckline are further designed. Two 18cm*138cm rectangular pieces are made for the design and production of the hem pleated ruffles. At the same time, a 6cm*138cm rectangular piece is made to realize the transformation of the neckline pleats into I-shaped pleats. After calculating the seam allowance, the decorative structural piece area achieves a 100% material utilization rate of 144cm*140cm. After connecting with the previous top piece area and skirt piece area, a 97.7% material discharge rate is achieved on the 314.54cm*140cm fabric, meeting the zero waste design requirements. Figure 4 shown.

[0100] Therefore, it was concluded that this sample had the highest material usage rate among the known chest-waist fitted garments, and was close to the 98.51% material usage rate of puzzle-style loose-fitting garments, verifying that this style meets the requirements of zero-waste design. It also verified the feasibility of puzzle-style geometric pieces, curved pieces, geometric nested nesting, wavy nested nesting and modular design in zero-waste design.

[0101] Example 4: Experiment on grading and nesting of basic style clothing

[0102] Based on the basic size M (160 / 84A), we sized it with a 3cm step difference, resulting in five sizes: XS, S, M, L, and XL. The specific step differences and size specifications are shown in the following table:

[0103] Grading position chest circumference waistline waist Breast distance Skirt length Gap difference (cm) 3 3 0.5 0.5 2

[0104]

[0105]

[0106]

[0107] Example 5: Continuous size discharge experiment

[0108] By statistically analyzing the data of the cutting pieces of each size and combining it with the principle of wave-shaped nesting, we conducted nesting experiments on the fabric with a width of 140cm, namely, the three sizes S, M, and L. This experiment still takes the chest yokes staggered in both directions on the same straight line in the weft direction as the starting point. The top pieces are nested using curves and trapezoids to form a rectangular nesting unit, and the three units are arranged on the same straight line in the weft direction to form a wave-shaped nesting. On this basis, while ensuring that the position of the chest yoke remains unchanged, the material utilization rate of the top part is further increased to 91.7% by staggering the front and back pieces of different sizes. At the same time, except for the chest yoke structure, after the other trapezoidal pieces are nested, the total width is approximately between 131cm and 136cm, taking into account the seam allowance, which meets the requirement of less than 140cm width. At the same time, a certain space is reserved to avoid the problem of the sum of the width of the pieces exceeding the width due to the incomplete nesting parts caused by the human body curve. Figure 5 shown.

[0109] After completing the layout of the top part, the skirt and neckline parts are laid out. The structure of the skirt is still trapezoidal or rectangular, which meets the conditions for nested layout. One front center skirt piece, two front side skirt pieces, two back side skirt pieces, and two back center skirt pieces are grouped together. There are three groups of S, M, and L sizes. Through the gap difference of different sizes, the same pieces of different sizes are replaced with each other to make the widths of the three groups basically the same. After calculating the seam allowance, the width and theoretical value of a single group of pieces are 113.5cm (each group is slightly different), and the length and theoretical value of the three groups are 126cm. Due to the gap difference, after calculating the seam allowance of the three sizes, the sum is still a rectangle of 24cm*126cm, which meets the spare area formed after the skirt pieces are nested. At this time, the material utilization rate reaches 95.2%, which has met the zero-waste design requirements. Figure 6 shown.

[0110] After finishing the layout of the top and skirt parts, add the hem pieces and the neckline patch pieces at the back until the material utilization rate reaches 97.4%. In this case, the style still meets the requirements of zero waste design under the condition of continuous size layout. Figure 7 shown.

[0111] Example 6: Skip-number type discharge experiment

[0112] By counting the cutting data of each size and combining it with the principle of wave-type nesting, discontinuous size nesting is carried out on the fabric with a width of 140cm, that is, nesting experiments are carried out on the three sizes of XS, M and XL.

[0113] The experimental process is the same as the above-mentioned multiple-set nesting experiment of the same size and the continuous size nesting experiment, and the geometric nesting and wave-shaped nesting are still carried out in modules. Due to the fixed gear difference, the sum of the length and width of each part of the cutting piece is not much different in theoretical value. However, in the actual nesting process, it was found that due to the large length and width difference between the XS size cutting piece and the XL size cutting piece, the margin between some cutting pieces increased, and the material utilization rate decreased. However, the overall material utilization rate can still reach 96.7%, meeting the requirements of zero waste design. Figure 8 shown.

[0114] The three nesting experiments above demonstrate that this basic garment pattern meets the zero-waste design requirement of achieving a material utilization rate greater than 95% using the same fabric width, regardless of whether multiple single-size, continuous-size, or skip-size patterns are used. Furthermore, the cut pieces are relatively regular and easy to sew. The successful multi-size pattern design indicates that it can be used in actual production. Therefore, the zero-waste waist-chest fitted garment basic pattern solution is confirmed to be successful.

[0115] In the description of this specification, the reference terms "one embodiment", "some embodiments", "example", "specific example" or "some examples" mean that the specific features, structures, materials or characteristics described in conjunction with the embodiment or example are included in at least one embodiment or example of the present invention. In this specification, the schematic representations of the above terms do not necessarily refer to the same embodiment or example. Moreover, the specific features, structures, materials or characteristics described can be combined in any one or more embodiments or examples in a suitable manner. In addition, those skilled in the art can combine and combine different embodiments or examples described in this specification and features of different embodiments or examples without contradiction.

[0116] In the drawings of the embodiments disclosed in the present invention, only the structures related to the embodiments disclosed in the present invention are involved. Other structures can refer to the general design. In the absence of conflict, the same embodiment and different embodiments of the present invention can be combined with each other.

[0117] Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the aforementioned embodiments, it is still possible for those skilled in the art to modify the technical solutions described in the aforementioned embodiments, or to make equivalent substitutions for some of the technical features therein. Any modifications, equivalent substitutions, improvements, etc. made within the spirit and principles of the present invention should be included in the scope of protection of the present invention.

Claims

1. A pattern making and laying method for chest-waist fitted garments based on three-dimensional plane collaboration, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: S1. Cutting piece structure design: S1.

1. Use draping to extract the curvilinear contours of the chest yoke. Use flat pattern-making techniques to divide the top into the center front, side front, side back, and center back panels. Design the edges of each panel to be trapezoidal or curved. S1.

2. Adjust the horizontal width of the chest yoke, indenting the front centerline and side seams by 1 cm each, for a total of 4 cm, so that the piece fits the chest curve. S1.

3. Calculate the sum of the bottom lengths of all panels to verify that they meet the waist fit requirements. S2 cutting optimization and modularization: S2.

1. Based on the standard size M, set the horizontal width of the chest yoke to 44cm, leaving space for a chest pad. S2.

2. The garment pieces are nested into rectangular nesting units with trapezoidal or curved edges, with a unit size of 44 cm × 10.5 cm. S3, same size layout: S3.

1. Align the three chest yoke panels in a bidirectional, weft-wise staggered pattern, spacing them 44 cm in the horizontal direction and 2 cm in the vertical direction. S3.

2. Nest the jacket pieces into three rectangular units, arranging them in a straight line along the weft direction, with adjacent units seamlessly connected. The total width is 134.2 cm, leaving a 5.8 cm seam allowance, ensuring the total width does not exceed 140 cm. S3.

3. The skirt pieces are grouped into front center, front side, back side, and back center groups. The total width of each group of pieces is 114.1 cm. The total length of the three groups is 126 cm, and the allowance area is 25.9 cm × 126 cm. S4. Utilization and decoration design of margin area: S4.

1. Cut a 6 cm × 124 cm rectangular decorative piece from the allowance area and form a neckline decoration by pleating. S4.

2. Add an 18cm x 138cm rectangular piece for the ruffle design of the hem. After calculating the seam allowance, the total width is 144cm, achieving a 100% material utilization rate for the part. S5. Multi-size grading and mixed nesting: S5.

1. Generate XS, S, M, L, and XL size cutting data based on fixed size differences; S5.

2. Continuous or skipped size pieces are arranged by alternating nesting arrangements to ensure that the width of the pieces remains the same at 113.5 cm ± 0.5 cm. S5.

3. Verify that the total width of the multi-size nesting does not exceed 140 cm and the nesting rate is not less than 95%; S6. Industrial Verification and Optimization: S6.

1. Use blank fabric to make sample garments and verify the chest and waist fit after the pieces are joined and the feasibility of the decorative process; S6.

2. Use 3D virtual fitting technology to simulate the wearing effect of clothing and optimize the distribution of gaps between cutting pieces; S6.

3. Output digital nesting files to support automatic cutting equipment to execute according to the optimized path.

2. A method for making and laying out a pattern for chest-waist fitted garments based on three-dimensional plane collaboration as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that: In step S3.1, the horizontal width of the chest yoke is scaled proportionally according to the size difference. The sizes from XS to XL are 40cm, 42cm, 44cm, 46cm, and 48cm respectively, and the distance between breasts is 0.5cm.

3. A method for pattern making and laying out of chest-waist fitted garments based on three-dimensional plane collaboration as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that: When the decorative pieces in the excess area of the skirt are supplemented by the I-pleat process in step S3.3, a rectangular piece of 6 cm × 138 cm needs to be cut with a seam allowance of 1 cm.

4. The method for making and laying out a pattern for chest-waist fitted garments based on three-dimensional plane collaboration as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that: When the multiple-size pieces are replaced and nested in step S5.2, the waist length of the front center skirt piece increases by 1 cm, and the sizes from XS to XL are 12.4 cm, 13.4 cm, 14.4 cm, 15.4 cm, and 16.4 cm respectively.

5. The method for making and laying out a pattern for chest-waist fitted garments based on three-dimensional plane collaboration as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that: In step S6.3, the digital nesting file is generated by CAD software, and the spacing between the cutting pieces is automatically optimized to within 0.3 cm.

Images