Superfine polyester filament core-spun yarn woolen fabric and production process

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of textile, and discloses a superfine polyester filament core-spun yarn wool spinning fabric and a production process thereof, and the production process comprises the following steps: performing pretreatment such as wool washing, carbonization, dyeing and the like on Australian merino wool fibers, and optimizing a spinning process to realize a core-spun structure of superfine polyester filaments and wool fibers; a low-tension process is adopted for weaving, and the performance of the fabric is improved through multiple after-finishing procedures. The obtained fabric is composed of 95%-96% of wool and 4%-5% of superfine polyester filament yarn and has an all-wool appearance or a star-point filament glittering effect, the breadth is 152 cm, and the gram weight per square meter is 151-191 g / m. The problem that the strength of the low-count wool spinning high-count yarn is insufficient is solved, single-yarn sizing-free weaving is achieved, the balance of the pure wool appearance and function requirements is met, the production period is shortened, the raw material cost is reduced, and the product competitiveness is improved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of textiles, in particular to an ultra-fine polyester filament core-spun yarn wool fabric and a production process. Background Art

[0002] Worsted wool fabric, also known as combed wool, is woven from high-count combed wool yarn. The wool is high-quality, resulting in a smooth, smooth surface, a fine, distinct weave, a soft, natural luster, pure color, a soft feel, and excellent elasticity. It is a premium fabric commonly used in high-end suits. The worsted wool spinning industry is a highly competitive and mature one. However, with rising raw material and labor costs, as well as increasingly stringent environmental regulations, the production cost of wool fabrics has gradually increased, compressing profit margins. To strike a balance between price and quality, customers are opting to reduce the wool content of pure wool products by blending them with polyester or other fibers. While ensuring a wool content of at least 95%, using low-count wool to spin high-count yarn to create high-count pure wool fabrics maintains the quality and style of pure wool while reducing costs.

[0003] However, existing technologies for spinning fine yarns from low-count wool often suffer from insufficient fiber strength. Furthermore, the traditional weaving process requires warp sizing, which increases production cycle time and costs. Therefore, developing a superfine polyester filament core-spun yarn fabric, using lower-grade worsted wool to spin fine yarns and enabling single-yarn sizing-free weaving, is crucial to addressing these issues. Summary of the Invention

[0004] In view of the deficiencies of the prior art, the present invention provides an ultra-fine polyester filament core-spun yarn wool fabric and a production process, which solves the problem of insufficient fiber strength when spinning low-count wool into high-count yarn in the prior art.

[0005] To achieve the above objectives, the present invention is implemented through the following technical solutions: A production process for ultra-fine polyester filament core-spun yarn wool fabric, comprising the following steps: S1: Australian Merino wool fibers are scour and carbonized to remove mutton fat, sweat, and plant impurities. The wool tops are then dyed using environmentally friendly reactive dyes at 90°C, with a pH value controlled between 4 and 5. After dyeing, the wool tops are kept at 70 to 75°C for 20 minutes, and finally neutralized to a pH of 6 to 7 at 35°C before rinsing away any loose color. The dyed wool tops are then dried, added with wool oil and antistatic agent, and left to sit for 24 hours. S2: The dyed wool strips are passed through the blending and needle-heading processes, sprayed with wool oil at a rate of 40g / min, and uniform tension is maintained during each needle-board combing process. The dyed and combed wool strips are then gradually drafted and combined to form fine wool yarn with a linear density of 12.50 to 8.33tex. In the spinning process, two rovings are fed simultaneously, with the roving feeding spacing set at 1.1cm, the draft ratio set at 22, the speed set at 8830r / min, and the twist set at 1050. When feeding ultrafine polyester filament, its position is adjusted to the center of the two rovings, the feeding speed ratio is set at 1:1.08, and the tension is controlled between 6 and 7cN. S3: The spun core-spun yarn was warped with a warping tension of 13 cN, a warping tension of 12 cN, and a machine speed of 400 m / min. Cold wax was applied during the warping process. The yarn was then woven using a Swiss G6300 small rapier loom with a weaving tension of 160 kg, a back beam height of 0, a warp stop height of 2, and a small opening and low tension process. S4: The woven grey fabric is subjected to singeing, continuous boiling, drying, bag sewing, rope washing, flat washing, double boiling, drying, trimming, brushing and shearing, softening and steaming in sequence; in the singeing process, the front and back of the grey fabric are quickly passed through the gas singeing machine at a speed of 100m / min; in the continuous boiling process, the fabric passes through 100℃ clean water at a speed of 35m / min; in the rope washing process, the washing speed is 120m / min, the temperature is 45℃, the time is 60min, and the rinsing is 20min; in the softening process, the softener is impregnated at a dosage of 50g / L, the penetrant is 1g / L, the speed is 30m / min, and the temperature is 150℃; in the steaming process, the fabric is penetrated by saturated steam in a closed tank at a temperature of 130℃ and the action time is 2min.

[0006] Preferably, the diameter of the ultrafine polyester filament is 8D, and the proportion in the finished fabric is less than 5%.

[0007] Preferably, in the dyeing process, the dyeing tank of the environmentally friendly reactive dye is equipped with a constant temperature control system and a pH adjustment device to ensure that the temperature is maintained at 90°C ± 1°C and the pH value is stabilized between 4 and 5 during the dyeing process.

[0008] Preferably, in the spinning process, the feeding position and tension of the ultrafine polyester filaments are precisely controlled by a godet and a tension regulator.

[0009] Preferably, in the weaving process, the interweaving of the warp yarn and the weft yarn is achieved by a rapier weft insertion system, the rapier running speed is 500 m / min, the opening time is 180°, and the closing time is 180°.

[0010] Preferably, in the rope-shaped washing process, the operation path of the washing equipment includes a cloth inlet area, a cloth washing area and a cloth outlet area, the temperature of the cloth washing area is 45° C., and the washing time is 60 minutes.

[0011] The ultra-fine polyester filament core-spun yarn wool fabric prepared by the above production process is composed of the following raw materials in the following weight percentages: 18.5μm wool 96% and 8D polyester filament 4%, 18.5μm mercerized wool 95% and 8D polyester filament 5%, 19.5μm wool 96% and 8D polyester filament 4%, 19.5μm wool 95% and 8D polyester filament 5%; The fabric width is 152cm; The yarn counts are 90Nm / 2 pieces × 90Nm / 2 pieces, 100Nm / 2 pieces × 100Nm / 2 pieces, 80Nm / 2 pieces × 80Nm / 2 pieces, and 80Nm / 2 pieces × 80Nm / 2 pieces respectively; The densities are 417 × 329 roots / 10cm, 380 × 329 roots / 10cm, 339 × 296 roots / 10cm, and 407 × 340 roots / 10cm; The weave structures are 2 / 2 twill, 6-page openwork, variable openwork and variable weave; The grammage per square meter is 171g / m², 151g / m², 168g / m² and 191g / m² respectively.

[0012] Preferably, the ultrafine polyester filament is located in the center of the wool fiber, forming a full core-wrapped, semi-exposed or star-point exposed effect.

[0013] The present invention provides a superfine polyester filament core-spun yarn wool fabric and a production process. It has the following beneficial effects: The present invention solves the problem of insufficient fiber strength when spinning low-count wool into high-count yarn by optimizing the pre-treatment process, spinning process, weaving process and finishing process, and at the same time realizes single-yarn sizing-free weaving; by adjusting the feeding position and speed ratio of ultrafine polyester filament, different core-spun effects are achieved, meeting the customer's demand for a balance between pure wool appearance and functionality; in addition, this process shortens the production cycle, reduces raw material costs, and improves product competitiveness. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0014] Figure 1 This is the overall process flow chart of the present invention; Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram showing the effect of the ultra-fine polyester filament being partially wrapped or exposed by wool fibers; Figure 3 Detailed flow chart of the spinning process of the present invention; Figure 4 Detailed flow chart of the weaving process of the present invention; Figure 5 This is a flow chart of the post-processing process of the present invention; Figure 6 This is a rendering of the fully core-wrapped appearance of the finished fabric of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0015] The following will clearly and completely describe the technical solution of the present invention in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. Obviously, the embodiments described are only some embodiments of the present invention, not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by ordinary technicians in this field without making creative efforts are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0016] The present invention provides a superfine polyester filament core-spun yarn wool fabric and its production process, which realizes the high-count spinning of low-count wool and satisfies the balance between the appearance and functionality of pure wool by optimizing the process steps of pre-treatment, spinning, weaving and finishing. Figure 1 To the attached Figure 6 Specific embodiments of the present invention are described in detail.

[0017] like Figure 1 The process flow diagram clearly illustrates the overall steps from raw material processing to finished fabric production. First, in step S1, Australian Merino wool fibers are scoured and carbonized to remove grease, sweat, and plant matter. This process is performed in dedicated scouring equipment, where the scouring tank is equipped with a sprayer and agitator to evenly disperse the detergent and ensure adequate contact with the cleaning solution. Carbonization is achieved by immersing the wool in an acidic solution with a concentration of 2% to 3% at a temperature of 40°C to 45°C for 30 minutes. The wool strips are then dyed using environmentally friendly reactive dyes at a low temperature of 90°C. The dyeing tank is equipped with a thermostatic control system and a pH regulator to maintain a temperature of 90°C ± 1°C and a stable pH between 4 and 5. After dyeing, the wool strips are kept at 70°C to 75°C for 20 minutes to enhance color fastness. Finally, the pH is neutralized to 6 to 7 at 35°C before rinsing away any loose dye. After the dyed wool strips are dried, wool oil and antistatic agent are added and left to stand for 24 hours. In this step, the spraying rate of wool oil and antistatic agent is 40g / min and 10g / min respectively, which are evenly applied to the wool surface through a spray device to reduce the flying flower phenomenon generated during the spinning process.

[0018] Entering step S2, the dyed wool strips are further processed through the blending and head needle process. Multiple needle plates are set in the blending machine, and the spacing between each needle plate is 1.5 cm. The tension adjustment device is used to maintain uniform tension during the needle plate combing to ensure that the roving is uniform. Then the dyed and combed wool strips are gradually stretched and combined to form fine wool yarn with a linear density of 12.50 to 8.33 tex. In the spinning process, two rovings are fed simultaneously, as shown in the following example. Figure 3 As shown, the roving feed position is clearly marked, with the roving spacing set to 1.1 cm, the draft ratio set to 22, the speed set to 8830 r / min, and the twist set to 1050. When feeding the ultrafine polyester filament, its position is adjusted to the center of the two rovings, the feed speed ratio is set to 1:1.08, and the tension is controlled between 6 and 7 cN. In this step, the diameter of the ultrafine polyester filament is 8D. The feed position and tension are precisely controlled by the yarn guide and tension regulator to achieve the star point exposure effect.

[0019] like Figure 4 As shown, in step S3, the spun core-spun yarn is warped with a warping tension of 13 cN, a rewinding tension of 12 cN, and a machine speed of 400 m / min. During the rewinding process, cold wax is applied to reduce adhesion between yarn hairiness and improve yarn surface friction. Weaving is then performed using a Swiss G6300 small rapier loom. The loom's opening structure demonstrates the protective effects of low tension and a small opening process on the yarn. The weaving tension is set to 160 kg, the back beam height is 0, and the warp stop frame height is 2. A small opening and low tension process are used to reduce yarn friction and avoid filament exposure due to yarn damage. During the weaving process, the warp and weft yarns are interwoven using a rapier weft insertion system. The rapier operates at a speed of 500 m / min, with an opening time of 180° and a closing time of 180°, ensuring that the yarn is evenly stressed and does not break during weaving.

[0020] like Figure 5As shown, step S4 proceeds to the finished fabric, where it undergoes singeing, continuous boiling, drying, bag sewing, rope scouring, flat washing, double boiling, baking, finishing, brushing and shearing, softening, and steaming. During the singeing process, the front and back sides of the fabric are quickly passed through a gas singeing machine at a speed of 100 m / min to remove surface hairiness. During the continuous boiling process, the fabric is passed through 100°C clean water at a speed of 35 m / min to eliminate internal stress and prevent creases. The scouring equipment operation path during the rope scouring process illustrates the fabric's operation path and key control points. The scouring process is performed at a speed of 120 m / min, a temperature of 45°C, a time of 60 minutes, and a 20-minute rinse to further enhance the fabric's feel. During the softening process, a padding softener at a dosage of 50 g / L and a penetrant at a speed of 30 m / min and a temperature of 150°C are used to impart a smooth and glutinous feel to the fabric. During the decatizing process, the fabric is penetrated by saturated steam in a closed tank at a temperature of 130°C for 2 minutes to improve its gloss and smoothness.

[0021] The final prepared ultrafine polyester filament core-spun yarn wool fabric is composed of the following raw materials in the following weight percentages: 96% of 18.5μm wool and 4% of 8D polyester filament, 95% of 18.5μm mercerized wool and 5% of 8D polyester filament, 96% of 19.5μm wool and 4% of 8D polyester filament, and 95% of 19.5μm wool and 5% of 8D polyester filament. The width of the fabrics is 152cm, and the yarn counts are 90Nm / 2 × 90Nm / 2, 100Nm / 2 × 100Nm / 2, 80Nm / 2 × 80Nm / 2, and 80Nm / 2 × 80Nm / 2. The densities are 417×329 / 10cm, 380×329 / 10cm, 339×296 / 10cm, and 407×340 / 10cm respectively. The weave structures are 2 / 2 twill, 6 pages of openwork, changed openwork and changed weave respectively. The grammage per square meter is 171g / m², 151g / m², 168g / m², and 191g / m² respectively. Figure 6 Showing the fully core-wrapped look of the finished fabric.

[0022] Through the above-mentioned process steps, this invention successfully solves the problem of insufficient fiber strength when spinning low-count wool into high-count yarn, while also achieving single-yarn size-free weaving. The introduction of ultrafine polyester filament not only enhances yarn strength but also allows for varying core-spun effects by adjusting the feed position and speed ratio, satisfying customer demands for a balance between pure wool appearance and functionality. Furthermore, this process shortens production cycles, reduces raw material costs, and significantly enhances product competitiveness.

[0023] In order to better enable relevant personnel in this technical field to fully understand and implement the present invention, the specific implementation principle of the present invention is further supplemented below with reference to a specific application scenario.

[0024] First, in the raw material processing stage, the Australian Merino wool fibers are placed in the wool washing tank for wool washing. Figure 1 As shown, the spraying and stirring devices work together to ensure that the detergent is evenly dispersed and fully contacts the wool fibers. The acidic solution concentration is controlled at 2% to 3%, and the temperature is maintained at 40°C to 45°C for 30 minutes to remove plant impurities. Subsequently, a constant temperature control system and pH adjustment device in the dyeing tank ensure a stable dyeing process at 90°C ± 1°C. The pH value is adjusted between 4 and 5 to ensure the efficient binding of the dye molecules to the fiber. After dyeing is completed, a 20-minute heat preservation operation allows the dye molecules to further penetrate the fiber, thereby improving color fastness. Finally, a spraying treatment with wool oil and antistatic agent reduces the occurrence of flying fibers during the spinning process. This series of steps provides a high-quality raw material foundation for the subsequent spinning process.

[0025] When entering the spinning process, the specific operating principle of the double roving feeding method can be seen through Figure 3 Further explanation. The roving spacing is set to 1.1cm, the draft ratio is 22, the speed is 8830r / min, and the twist is 1050. These parameters work together to ensure the uniformity and strength of the roving. The feeding position of the ultra-fine polyester filament is precisely adjusted to the center of the two rovings, and the feeding speed ratio is set to 1:1.08, and the tension is controlled between 6 and 7cN. The use of the guide wheel and the tension regulator ensures the stability of the filament during the feeding process. Figure 2 As shown in the figure, the ultra-fine polyester filaments are partially wrapped or exposed by the wool fibers, creating a semi-exposed or star-point exposed effect. This structural design not only enhances the mechanical properties of the yarn, but also gives the fabric a unique appearance.

[0026] In the weaving process, the specific operating principle of the Swiss G6300 small rapier loom can be seen through Figure 4 Further elaboration. The warping tension is set to 13cN, the inverted axis tension is 12cN, and the cold wax coating operation reduces the surface friction coefficient of the yarn and improves the weavability of the yarn. During the weaving process, the height of the back beam is 0, and the height of the warp stop frame is 2. The low tension and small opening process significantly reduce the friction damage of the yarn during the weaving process. The operating speed of the rapier weft insertion system is 500 meters per minute, and the opening time and closing time are both 180°, which ensures that the yarn is evenly stressed and does not break during the interweaving process. This process design effectively avoids the problem of filament exposure caused by yarn damage, thereby achieving the technical goal of single-yarn sizing-free weaving.

[0027] In the finishing process, the operating principles of key steps such as singeing, rope scouring and steaming can be explained by Figure 5 and Figure 6Further explanation. In the singeing process, the gas singeing machine quickly removes the hairiness on the surface of the grey cloth at a speed of 100m / min, providing a smooth base for subsequent processing. In the rope washing process, the fabric runs at a speed of 120m / min at 45°C for 60 minutes, and then rinses for 20 minutes. This process not only improves the feel of the fabric, but also optimizes the bonding state between the fibers. In the steaming process, the fabric is penetrated by saturated steam in a closed tank at a temperature of 130°C for 2 minutes. This operation significantly improves the gloss and smoothness of the fabric. The final finished fabric has a fully cored appearance like this. Figure 6 shown.

[0028] Through the synergistic effect of the above process steps, this invention successfully solves the problem of insufficient fiber strength when spinning low-count wool into high-count yarn. The introduction of ultrafine polyester filament not only enhances yarn strength but also enables a variety of core-spun effects by adjusting the feed position and speed ratio, satisfying customers' demands for a balance between pure wool appearance and functionality. Furthermore, by optimizing parameters in each step, this process significantly shortens the production cycle and reduces raw material costs, thereby enhancing the product's market competitiveness.

[0029] Any content not described in detail in the specification belongs to the prior art known to those skilled in the art, and the model parameters of each device are not specifically limited, and conventional devices can be used. In this technical solution, electrical control components not mentioned are not shown in the figures because they belong to the prior art and will not be described here.

[0030] While embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that various changes, modifications, substitutions, and variations may be made to these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, and that the scope of the invention is defined by the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims

1. A production process for ultra-fine polyester filament core-spun yarn wool fabric, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: S1: Australian Merino wool fibers are scour and carbonized to remove mutton fat, sweat, and plant impurities. The wool tops are then dyed using environmentally friendly reactive dyes at 90°C, with a pH value controlled between 4 and 5. After dyeing, the wool tops are kept at 70 to 75°C for 20 minutes, and finally neutralized to a pH of 6 to 7 at 35°C before rinsing away any loose color. The dyed wool tops are then dried, added with wool oil and antistatic agent, and left to sit for 24 hours. S2: The dyed wool strips are passed through the blending and needle-heading processes, sprayed with wool oil at a rate of 40g / min, and uniform tension is maintained during each needle-board combing process. The dyed and combed wool strips are then gradually drafted and combined to form fine wool yarn with a linear density of 12.50 to 8.33tex. In the spinning process, two rovings are fed simultaneously, with the roving feeding spacing set at 1.1cm, the draft ratio set at 22, the speed set at 8830r / min, and the twist set at 1050. When feeding ultrafine polyester filament, its position is adjusted to the center of the two rovings, the feeding speed ratio is set at 1:1.08, and the tension is controlled between 6 and 7cN. S3: The spun core-spun yarn was warped with a warping tension of 13 cN, a warping tension of 12 cN, and a machine speed of 400 m / min. Cold wax was applied during the warping process. The yarn was then woven using a Swiss G6300 small rapier loom with a weaving tension of 160 kg, a back beam height of 0, a warp stop height of 2, and a small opening and low tension process. S4: The woven grey fabric is subjected to singeing, continuous boiling, drying, bag sewing, rope washing, flat washing, double boiling, drying, trimming, brushing and shearing, softening and steaming in sequence; in the singeing process, the front and back of the grey fabric are quickly passed through the gas singeing machine at a speed of 100m / min; in the continuous boiling process, the fabric passes through 100℃ clean water at a speed of 35m / min; in the rope washing process, the washing speed is 120m / min, the temperature is 45℃, the time is 60min, and the rinsing is 20min; in the softening process, the softener is impregnated at a dosage of 50g / L, the penetrant is 1g / L, the speed is 30m / min, and the temperature is 150℃; in the steaming process, the fabric is penetrated by saturated steam in a closed tank at a temperature of 130℃ and the action time is 2min.

2. The production process of a superfine polyester filament core-spun yarn wool fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The diameter of the ultrafine polyester filament is 8D, and the proportion of the ultrafine polyester filament in the finished fabric is less than 5%.

3. The production process of a superfine polyester filament core-spun yarn wool fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the dyeing process, the dyeing tank of the environmentally friendly reactive dye is equipped with a constant temperature control system and a pH adjustment device to ensure that the temperature is maintained at 90°C ± 1°C and the pH value is stabilized between 4 and 5 during the dyeing process.

4. The production process of a superfine polyester filament core-spun yarn wool fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the spinning process, the feeding position and tension of the ultrafine polyester filaments are precisely controlled by the yarn guide wheel and the tension regulator.

5. The production process of a superfine polyester filament core-spun yarn wool fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the weaving process, the interweaving of the warp and weft yarns is achieved by a rapier weft insertion system, the rapier running speed is 500 m / min, the opening time is 180°, and the closing time is 180°.

6. The production process of a superfine polyester filament core-spun yarn wool fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the rope-shaped washing process, the operation path of the washing equipment includes a cloth-inlet area, a cloth-washing area and a cloth-outlet area. The temperature of the cloth-washing area is 45° C. and the washing time is 60 minutes.

7. A superfine polyester filament core-spun yarn wool fabric prepared by the production process according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that: It is composed of the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 18.5μm wool 96% and 8D polyester filament 4%, 18.5μm mercerized wool 95% and 8D polyester filament 5%, 19.5μm wool 96% and 8D polyester filament 4%, 19.5μm wool 95% and 8D polyester filament 5%; The fabric width is 152cm; The yarn counts are 90Nm / 2 pieces × 90Nm / 2 pieces, 100Nm / 2 pieces × 100Nm / 2 pieces, 80Nm / 2 pieces × 80Nm / 2 pieces, and 80Nm / 2 pieces × 80Nm / 2 pieces respectively; The densities are 417 × 329 roots / 10cm, 380 × 329 roots / 10cm, 339 × 296 roots / 10cm, and 407 × 340 roots / 10cm; The weave structures are 2 / 2 twill, 6-page openwork, variable openwork and variable weave; The grammage per square meter is 171g / m², 151g / m², 168g / m² and 191g / m² respectively.

8. The ultra-fine polyester filament core-spun yarn wool fabric according to claim 7, characterized in that: The ultra-fine polyester filament is located in the center of the wool fiber, forming a full core-covered, semi-exposed or star-point exposed effect.

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