Production process of high-density weft-knitted gambiered canton gauze fabric

Abstract

The invention discloses a high-density weft-knitted gambiered canton gauze fabric production process which comprises the working procedures of knitting, dye yam dyeing, river mud coloring and wool blanket finishing, knitting is conducted on a 30-inch 42G double-face circular machine, the stitch length is 42 stitches / inch, the total number of paths is 72 F, the total number of stitches is 3852, 15D spandex and 600 twist / m bobbin threads are jointly fed in each path in a combined mode, double-face plain weave is adopted in texture, knitting needles are arranged in a high-plate and low-plate alternate needle withdrawing mode, and the wool blanket is formed. Every two paths form a cycle, the number of yarn feeding knitting paths is 8, the yarn conveying length is 19-21 cm / 100 stitches, the transverse density of a machine is 60 meshes / inch, and the longitudinal density of the machine is 52 meshes / inch; dyeing of dioscorea cirrhosa includes preparation of dioscorea cirrhosa juice, dip dyeing and airing, cloth boiling, washing and airing and airing. The river mud coloring comprises river mud preparation, river mud coloring, mud washing, drying in the sun and mist spreading; the wool blanket finishing temperature is 110-120 DEG C, and the speed is 20-35 m / min. By the adoption of the process, the defect that gaps between coils of weft-knitted fabric are large is overcome, the blank face discharged from a machine is compact, fine and elastic, and the mud coating face of the weft-knitted gambiered canton gauze fabric is not prone to permeating to the opposite face.

Description

[Background Technology]

[0001] Xiangyunsha is a silk fabric dyed with pure plant dyes from the yam family. In recent years, Xiangyunsha fabric dyed with yam has become increasingly popular in domestic and international markets. This special traditional craft first uses yam juice to soak the silk fabric, making the two surfaces of the fabric brown, and then applies river mud to the front of the fabric, turning the brown on the front of the fabric into a black mud coating. No chemical additives are used in the entire dyeing process.

[0002] After investigation, it was found that the Xiangyunsha fabrics on the market are all woven fabrics made by weaving warp and weft, which are woven Xiangyunsha. Most of these fabrics are woven by electric spinning and double wrinkles, and are dyed with yam and river mud. There is currently no Xiangyunsha weft-knitted fabric on the market. Therefore, the yam dyeing and river mud coating processes have not been effectively applied to weft-knitted fabrics.

[0003] The structure of weft-knitted fabric is usually loose, because the number of needles is large, which makes the gaps between the coils large. If the weft-knitted fabric is prepared for river mud coloring according to the conventional method, the weft-knitted Xiangyunsha fabric produced will have the following technical deficiencies:

[0004] The weft-knitted grey fabric is not only loose and too soft without a sense of quality, but also has the problem of mud penetrating from the front side of the weft-knitted Xiangyunsha fabric to the opposite side during mud coloring. When preparing the weft-knitted grey fabric before dyeing and mud coloring, it is woven on a single-sided circular knitting machine. However, single-sided knitted fabrics are prone to curling, which affects the efficiency of the mud coating operation and the mud coating is not comprehensive, resulting in low effective utilization of the fabric.

[0005] [Object of the invention]

[0006] The invention provides a production process for high-density weft-knitted Xiangyun yarn fabrics to solve the problem that the mud-coated surface of the fabric is easily penetrated to the opposite surface during post-treatment of mud coating due to the loose structure of the weft-knitted fabrics.

[0007] To this end, the present invention provides the following technical solutions:

[0008] The production process of high-density weft-knitted Xiangyun yarn fabric includes soaking, winding, doubling, twisting into cones, weaving, scouring, opening and shaping, yam dyeing, river mud coloring and carpet finishing. The doubling is the 27 / 29D yarn obtained from winding. f1 silk raw silk is combined with 50D / 24F bright rayon to obtain combined yarn; the combined yarn obtained by the combined yarn is twisted and wound to obtain a bobbin with a twist of 600 twists / m and a twist direction of S; weaving: knitting is carried out on a 30-inch 42G double-sided circular knitting machine with a needle gauge of 42 needles / inch, a total number of 72F, and a total number of needles of 3852 needles. 15D spandex and 600 twists / m bobbin yarn are combined in each yarn feed, the structure adopts double-sided plain weave, the needle arrangement is high and low board alternating needles, every 2 routes are 1 cycle, the number of yarn feed knitting routes is 8, the line length is 19-21cm / 100 needles, the horizontal density on the machine is 60 mesh / inch, and the vertical density on the machine is 52 mesh / inch; yam dyeing includes yam The method comprises the steps of juice preparation, impregnation and drying, cloth boiling and washing and drying, and sun-drying, wherein the rhizome of yam is peeled and crushed, the rhizome of yam is weighed and soaked with water at 65-70 DEG C in a mass ratio of 1:2, stirred, allowed to stand while immersed, filtered, and the collected eluate is mixed to prepare the rhizome of yam juice, during impregnation and drying, the semi-finished product is fully immersed in the rhizome of yam juice, and the impregnation and drying cycles are repeated ten times, the cloth boiling and washing and drying cycles are repeated three times, and then the product is sun-dried; river mud coloring comprises the steps of river mud preparation, river mud coloring, mud washing, sun-drying, and mist spreading, wherein the river mud coloring is performed on the front side of the semi-finished cloth after the rhizome of yam dyeing; and carpet finishing: the carpet finishing is performed on a three-combination finishing machine at a temperature of 110-120 DEG C and a machine speed controlled at 20-35 m / min.

[0009] As a priority, the finished fabric has a horizontal density of 62 mesh / inch and a vertical density of 55 mesh / inch after finishing, and a finished weight of 200g / m 2 .

[0010] As a preference, the mass percentage of spandex in the high-density weft-knitted Xiangyunsha fabric is 5%, while the mass percentages of the lustrous rayon and silk in the combined yarn are 65% and 30% respectively.

[0011] The technical effects of the technical solution provided by the present invention are:

[0012] The configuration of line length, vertical and horizontal density and close stitch length has been optimized, combined with double-line feed and double-sided plain weave, so that the problem of large gaps between coils has been improved, ensuring that the off-machine weft-knitted fabric is compact, delicate and elastic. Therefore, the off-machine weft-knitted grey fabric overcomes the problem that the mud-coated side of the fabric is easily penetrated to the opposite side during subsequent mud coating; the upper machine density is reasonably set, combined with the high and low plates alternating needle output, the weft-knitted double-sided plain grey fabric is crisp and drapey, so the clothing has full body and is not loose. Under the premise of ensuring that no holes and needles are caused, the upper machine density is increased to avoid the problem of the fabric being too soft due to being too thin.

[0013] In addition, compared with single-sided raw fabrics, double-sided plain weave raw fabrics will not produce curling, so mud coating is comprehensive, easy to operate and highly efficient, and the fabric is conducive to mud coating over a large area, resulting in less scraps.

Brief Description of the Drawings

[0014] Figure 1 This is a knitting diagram of the first yarn feed when the high board is out of needle;

[0015] Figure 2 This is a knitting diagram of the second yarn feed when the needle is out of the low plate. [Specific implementation method]

[0016] The production process of high-density weft-knitted Xiangyun yarn fabric includes soaking, winding, doubling, twisting into cones, weaving, scouring, opening and shaping, yam dyeing, river mud coloring and carpet finishing.

[0017] S1. Soaking: soak the skeined 27 / 29D f1 silk raw silk in a soaking agent with a mass concentration of 17 g / L, a bath ratio of 1:5, a soaking temperature of 45°C, and keep warm for 2.5 hours. After soaking, dehydrate and dry the silk. The soaking agent is EKL-200A produced by Hangzhou Xinyinglun Technology Co., Ltd.

[0018] S2, winding: the skeined yarn is soaked and then processed on a winding machine to obtain bobbin yarn.

[0019] S3, doubling: 27 / 29D f1 bobbin-packed raw silk and 50D / 24F glossy rayon are doubling on a doubling machine at a tension of 5CN to obtain doubling yarn with a bobbin height of 210mm.

[0020] S4, twisting into bobbins: twisting into bobbins is to twist, shape and wind the aforementioned combined yarns in sequence to obtain bobbins with a twist of 600 twists / m and a twist direction of S, ready for weaving. The purpose of designing the yarns with a low twist is to create conditions for the spandex to be less likely to be exposed during the subsequent weaving process.

[0021] S5, knitting machine

[0022] The knitting is carried out on a 30-inch 42G double-sided circular knitting machine with a gauge of 42 needles / inch, a total number of 72F, and a total number of 3852 needles; 15D spandex and the 600 twist / m bobbin yarn obtained in step S4 are combined into the yarn in each pass; the weave adopts a double-sided plain weave, and the needle arrangement is high plate and low plate alternately. The knitting is carried out as shown in FIG. Figure 1 、 2 As shown, every 2 routes constitute a cycle, the number of yarn feeding routes is 8; the length of the yarn feed is 19-21cm / 100 needles, the horizontal density on the machine is 60 mesh / inch, the vertical density on the machine is 52 mesh / inch, and the weight of the weft knitted green fabric after leaving the machine is 130g / m 2.

[0023] S6, Refined

[0024] The scouring agent formula is: silk scouring agent mass concentration 3g / L, soda ash mass concentration 1g / L, thiourea dioxide mass concentration 0.5g / L, and the scouring treatment process conditions are: time 60-90min, temperature 96-98℃, bath ratio 1:20, and oxygen bleaching and washing are carried out in sequence after scouring.

[0025] The formula used for oxygen bleaching is: 4g / L of 28% hydrogen peroxide and 0.5g / L of sodium carbonate. The process conditions for oxygen bleaching are: time 65min, temperature 75-85℃, and bath ratio 1:20. When cleaning, first wash with 85℃ clean water for 12min, then wash with 65℃ clean water for 15min, and finally wash with room temperature water for 20min. After scouring, a semi-finished product that can be opened, shaped and dyed is obtained.

[0026] S7, open width shaping

[0027] The semi-finished product is opened on the opening machine, and then heat-set on the hot air stentering setting machine. The setting temperature is 195℃~200℃, the setting time is 30 seconds, and the speed is controlled at 40~50 meters / minute.

[0028] S8, yam dyeing: This process includes yam juice preparation, soaking and dyeing, drying, boiling cloth and washing and drying.

[0029] Preparation of yam juice: peel and crush the yam tubers, weigh the crushed yam into a paste and soak it with water at 65-70°C in a mass ratio of 1:2, stir, let it stand, filter, and mix the eluates collected 5 times to prepare yam juice; dip and air-dye: during dip-dyeing, fully soak the semi-finished product in yam juice so that the yam juice penetrates into the interior and front and back of the semi-finished product, and the dip and air-dyeing and drying are repeated ten times; boil the cloth and wash and dry it: repeat this process three times, then dry it in the sun, and both sides of the semi-finished cloth will appear brown.

[0030] S9, River Mud Coloring: This process includes river mud preparation, coloring, washing, sun drying, and fogging. For river mud preparation, qualified river mud containing iron and other metal ions is selected, such as mud from the Pearl River region. The river mud coloring is applied to the front side of the semi-finished fabric after yam dyeing. Upon completion, the mud-coated surface (the front side of the fabric) changes from brown to black, effectively eliminating the mud bleeding from the opposite side (the back side of the fabric) that occurred during the previous testing phase.

[0031] S10, carpet finishing

[0032] The process is carried out in a three-combination finishing machine at a temperature of 110℃~120℃ and a speed of 20~35m / min. After the finishing of the blanket, the front side of the fabric appears shiny black while the back side still maintains the brown color presented by yam dyeing.

[0033] After finishing, the finished fabric has a horizontal density of 62 mesh / inch and a vertical density of 55 mesh / inch, and a gram weight of 200g / m 2 .

[0034] The mass percentages of glossy rayon, silk and spandex in the high-density weft-knitted Xiangyunsha fabric are 65%, 30% and 5% respectively.

[0035] The high-density weft-knitted Xiangyun yarn fabric produced by this process can be used as decorative fabric and clothing fabric.

Claims

1. A production process for high-density weft-knitted Xiangyun yarn fabric, characterized by: The production process includes soaking, winding, doubling, twisting into bobbins, weaving, scouring, width setting, yam dyeing, river mud coloring and carpet finishing. The combined yarn is made by combining 27 / 29D f1 silk raw silk obtained by reeling and 50D / 24F bright rayon to obtain the combined yarn; The yarn is twisted and wound into a bobbin, wherein the combined yarn obtained by doubling is twisted and wound to obtain a bobbin of 27 / 29D f1 silk raw silk + 50D / 24F bright rayon with a twist of 600 twists / m and a twist direction of S; Weaving The knitting is carried out on a 30-inch 42G double-sided circular knitting machine with a needle gauge of 42 needles / inch, a total number of 72F, and a total number of 3852 needles. 15D spandex and 600 twist / m bobbin yarn are combined in each yarn feed. The weave adopts a double-sided plain weave. The needle arrangement is high and low board alternating needle output. Every 2 yarns constitute a cycle. The number of yarn feed knitting routes is 8, the thread feed length is 19-21cm / 100 needles, the horizontal density on the machine is 60 mesh / inch, and the vertical density on the machine is 52 mesh / inch. The yam dyeing process includes yam juice preparation, dyeing and airing, cloth boiling and washing, and sun drying. The yam tubers are peeled and crushed, the yam tubers are weighed and soaked with water at 65-70°C in a mass ratio of 1:2, stirred, immersed and allowed to stand, filtered, and the collected eluate is mixed to prepare the yam juice. During dyeing and airing, the semi-finished product is fully immersed in the yam juice, and the dyeing and airing cycle is repeated ten times. The cloth boiling and washing cycle is repeated three times before sun drying. The process of river mud coloring includes river mud preparation, river mud coloring, mud washing, sun drying and fogging. Among them, river mud coloring is to color the front side of the semi-finished cloth after yam dyeing. Carpet finishing: Carpet finishing is carried out on a three-combination finishing machine at a temperature of 110℃~120℃ and a speed controlled at 20~35m / min.

2. The Xiangyunsha fabric production process according to claim 1, characterized in that After finishing, the horizontal density of the finished fabric is 62 mesh / inch, the vertical density is 55 mesh / inch, and the finished weight is 200g / m 2 .

3. The Xiangyunsha fabric production process according to claim 1 is characterized in that The mass percentage of spandex in the high-density weft-knitted Xiangyunsha fabric is 5%, and the mass percentages of the bright rayon and silk in the combined yarn are 65% and 30% respectively.

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