Novel solid cosmetic composition and use thereof in skin or hair hygiene

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition which is particularly suitable for the care and / or hygiene of the skin and / or hair. The composition comprises 30 to 65% by weight of a consistency agent, a small amount of water, at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glycosides having an alkyl group comprising 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and at least one anionic surfactant selected from isethionic acid and the cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, the total content of which is less than or equal to 20% by weight. The composition has a high degree of naturalness and good foaming ability.

Description

[0001] This invention relates to a cosmetic composition in solid form, and the use of this composition in cleansing and / or caring for skin and / or hair. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method using this composition for skin and / or hair hygiene and / or care. Background Technology

[0002] The solid cosmetics market is currently booming, with many companies commercializing compositions for cleaning and / or caring for the body, face, or hair in solid form, a form that is more environmentally friendly than liquid compositions.

[0003] The oldest and most widely used solid cosmetic composition is soap, a product obtained through a saponification reaction. However, due to its high pH value (usually greater than 10), soap is highly irritating to the skin, especially sensitive skin, and is unsuitable for use on hair.

[0004] Recently, synthetic detergents have emerged as a promising alternative to soap-based products. Synthetic detergents offer the same cleaning properties as traditional soaps, including good foaming properties, but are gentler on the skin.

[0005] Examples of products based on such synthetic detergents proposed in the prior art include those by Hopery Benjamin The company sells “Shampoo bar” products in the German market (Mintel data sheet 8088547), and L'Occitane sells “Solid Shampoo” products in the Belgian market (Mintel data sheet 10325914).

[0006] The ingredient lists on these product packaging show that the main ingredient in the first product is sodium cocoyl isoflavone, and the main ingredient in the second product is disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, followed by sodium cocoyl isoflavone. According to Article 19, paragraph 4 of Regulation (EC) 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and the Council of November 30, 2009 on cosmetics, the list of ingredients on the packaging must be arranged in descending order of their weight when added to the cosmetic. Therefore, sodium cocoyl isoflavone is the main ingredient in the first formulation, while disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and sodium cocoyl isoflavone are the main ingredients in the second formulation. However, consumers are increasingly wary of the ingredients in their cosmetics and are looking for products containing fewer chemicals (such as isoflavones and sulfosuccinates). They prefer naturally derived ingredients, which are known for their better skin tolerance and affinity, and are more environmentally friendly. However, products based on natural ingredients often produce less foam and / or lower quality foam.

[0007] Developing cosmetic compositions that are both highly natural and have excellent foaming ability is a challenge, especially since the combination of these properties must preferably be accompanied by other very desirable properties of such cosmetic compositions, particularly in terms of their consistency, viscosity, appearance and sensory properties.

[0008] The present invention aims to provide a solid cosmetic composition that meets all these criteria, particularly having a physiological pH value, being gentle on the skin, containing the maximum amount of naturally derived ingredients, while having excellent foaming ability, an attractive appearance (especially a glossy appearance and a uniform texture), and satisfying consumers.

[0009] Another objective of the invention is that the composition contains as few ingredients as possible and is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and atopic skin.

[0010] The object of the present invention is also to ensure that the solid composition has a moderate consistency, neither too hard nor too soft or too sticky, so as to avoid inconvenience and unpleasantness in actual use and difficulty in manufacturing by conventional equipment used for manufacturing solid compositions (especially by extrusion). Summary of the Invention

[0011] The inventors have discovered that these objectives can be achieved by using a specific combination of surfactants that is far more natural than synthetic detergents commonly used in the cosmetics industry, and unexpectedly, exhibits exceptionally high foaming capacity upon contact with water, particularly in terms of rapid foam formation, abundant foam, and a large number of air bubbles within the foam. This combination of surfactants can also form solid compositions with low viscosity, moderate hardness, appealing appearance, uniform texture, and favorable sensory properties.

[0012] Therefore, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a solid cosmetic composition comprising: -A total of 30 to 65% by weight of thickening agent relative to the total weight of the composition. - at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms and / or at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amide-propyl betaine, preferably of natural origin. - At least one anionic surfactant selected from hydroxyethanesulfonic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts, wherein the total content of the anionic surfactant selected from hydroxyethanesulfonic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts is less than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Furthermore, the total content of surfactants in the composition is between 10% and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Furthermore, the composition: - Contains less than 8% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. - And it contains no gelling agent or contains less than 1% by weight of gelling agent relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] In this specification, solid compositions are conventionally defined as compositions that are in bulk form and do not flow under their own weight. This definition specifically excludes powder forms.

[0014] More specifically, within the meaning of this invention, a solid composition is defined as any composition having a hardness (compressive strength) greater than or equal to 20 g at ambient temperature, i.e., at a temperature between 20 and 25°C. This hardness can be measured by inserting a cylindrical probe with a diameter of 0.8 cm into the composition matrix to a depth of 8 mm at a speed of 1 mm / s and measuring the penetration force of the probe. Any texture analysis instrument can be used for this purpose, particularly the TA.XT+ analyzer available from Stable Micro Systems.

[0015] The solid cosmetic compositions according to the invention are intended for direct use in their solid form, particularly for the hygiene and / or care of the skin and / or hair, as opposed to solid compositions intended to be dissolved in water before use to form a liquid composition for use in that form. Therefore, unlike compositions that require dissolution before use, the compositions according to the invention contain little or no gelling agent, i.e., less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Specifically, the compositions according to the invention contain little or no gelling agent selected from gums, more specifically from xanthan gum, dilatantia gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, succinyl dextran gum, gum arabic, carob gum, tamarind seed gum, and prickly pear gum.

[0016] The compositions according to the invention preferably also do not contain substances that can cause agitation when in contact with water, such as effervescent substrates, particularly combinations of organic acids and alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal carbonates or bicarbonates, such as citric acid and sodium carbonate.

[0017] The solid cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be packaged, for example, in the form of strips, pebbles, balls, sticks or rods, and optionally in refillable packaging devices.

[0018] The compositions according to the invention preferably further comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. In this specification, the term "cosmetically acceptable" means that the salt or excipient is suitable for use in contact with human and animal cells, particularly skin or hair cells. Preferably, the excipient has a pleasant odor, color, and / or feel and does not cause unacceptable discomfort that would prevent the user from using the composition according to the invention.

[0019] In this specification, the term "at least one" refers to a single compound or a mixture of several such compounds. Therefore, as a surfactant, the composition according to the invention may specifically comprise: - A single nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides whose alkyl groups contain 8 to 16 carbon atoms, or a variety of such nonionic surfactants, and / or a single amphoteric surfactant other than amide-propyl betaine, or a variety of such amphoteric surfactants. - and a single anionic surfactant selected from ethanesulfonic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts, or multiple such anionic surfactants. However, preferably, the compositions according to the invention do not simultaneously contain an anionic surfactant selected from ethanesulfonic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts and an anionic surfactant selected from sulfosuccinic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts. Therefore, the compositions according to the invention preferably contain either one or more anionic surfactants selected from ethanesulfonic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts, or one or more anionic surfactants selected from sulfosuccinic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts.

[0020] This specific surfactant blend advantageously ensures that the composition exhibits high foaming capacity and good foam quality upon contact with water. Without speculating on the phenomena underlying the performance of the surfactant blends according to the invention, it can be considered that they are due to the synergistic effect between specific groups carried by these surfactants, particularly on the one hand glucosinolates and / or amphoteric groups, and on the other hand ethanesulfonic acid / ethanesulfonate and / or sulfosuccinic acid / sulfosuccinate, as well as the specific chain length of the alkyl groups in alkyl glucosinolate nonionic surfactants, which contributes to their foaming ability.

[0021] In particular, the inventors have discovered that in solid cosmetic compositions, partially replacing anionic surfactants selected from ethanesulfonic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts with alkyl glucosides containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, especially replacing 25 to 35% by weight of such anionic surfactants with such alkyl glucosides, does not affect the foaming ability of the composition at all; on the contrary, it even improves the foaming ability in some respects, while forming a composition with a higher naturalness index. This is particularly surprising because nonionic surfactants are known for their low foaming ability. In particular, by combining anionic surfactants selected from ethanesulfonic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts with nonionic surfactants selected from alkyl glucosides containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, high foaming ability can be obtained for the composition at a particularly low total anionic surfactant concentration relative to the concentration recommended in the prior art, i.e., less than or equal to 20% by weight, or even less than or equal to 15% by weight (relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0022] Generally, the solid cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably have a naturalness index determined according to the calculation method of ISO 16128:2017, greater than or equal to about 85%, preferably greater than or equal to about 90%. All of their components are advantageously selected to achieve these values. Therefore, the components contained in the compositions according to the invention are preferably of natural origin, thereby satisfying the strong demand for formulations containing naturally derived ingredients, a trend in the cosmetics market for many years.

[0023] For reasons of naturalness, the compositions according to the present invention are preferably free of paraffin.

[0024] Furthermore, it preferably does not contain ingredients that are irritating to the skin, cause dryness, or may cause intolerance and / or allergies. Therefore, in addition to preferably being free of amphoteric surfactants such as amide-propyl betaine, the compositions according to the invention preferably also do not contain anionic surfactants containing at least one sulfate group, i.e., -O-SO3H or -O-SO2-O- groups, such as lauryl ether sulfate or lauryl sulfate. Although sulfate surfactants have particularly good foaming properties, they are irritating to the skin.

[0025] Preferably, also to improve user tolerance, the composition according to the invention is preferably free of acrylate or silicone microplastics, and preferably free of compounds having acrylate functional groups and silicone.

[0026] In certain embodiments of the invention, the composition does not contain any alkyl glucosides with alkyl groups having more than 16 carbon atoms, such as arachidonic acid glucoside. Such substances, unlike the alkyl glucosides containing C8 to C16 alkyl groups recommended in this invention, would impart excessively high hardness to the composition. In certain embodiments of the invention, the composition does not contain a mixture of arachidonic acid glucoside and arachidonic acid.

[0027] It also advantageously does not contain soaps, i.e., substances obtained through saponification, such as those with INCI names like sodium palmitate, sodium cocoate, sodium olive oil, sodium stearate, etc. Therefore, the pH of the composition according to the invention is advantageously close to the physiological pH of the skin. It is preferably between 4.5 and 7, more preferably between 5 and 6.5. The pH of the solid composition according to the invention can be measured by dissolving the composition in water, for example, at a ratio of 1 gram of composition to 100 grams of water, and measuring the pH of the resulting solution.

[0028] The compositions according to the invention also contain 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10 to 15% by weight of anionic surfactants selected from ethanesulfonic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts (relative to the total weight of the composition). Therefore, the content of these anionic surfactants is far lower than that in prior art solid cosmetic compositions, which typically contain nearly 40% by weight of such anionic surfactants.

[0029] Furthermore, the total surfactant content in the composition is between 10 and 50% by weight, preferably between 15 and 40% by weight, more preferably between 15 and 35% by weight, and even more preferably between 20 and 30% by weight or between 15 and 25% by weight (relative to the total weight of the composition). In particular, it can be between 18 and 25% by weight, for example between 18 and 22% by weight (relative to the total weight of the composition). Such a range of values ​​enables the composition to achieve good foaming ability and good foam quality, while also reducing the manufacturing cost of the composition.

[0030] The compositions according to the invention contain less than 8% by weight of water (relative to the total weight of the composition). The water content of the compositions according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 7% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 6% by weight, and particularly less than or equal to 5% by weight (relative to the total weight of the composition). In certain embodiments of the invention, the composition contains no water, or only trace amounts of water. In variations of the invention, the composition contains 0.5 to 4% by weight of water, particularly 1 to 3% by weight of water (relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0031] The compositions according to the invention may also have one or more of the following features, which may be used alone or in any technically effective combination.

[0032] In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one, i.e., one or more, anionic surfactants selected from acylglutamic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts. The advantage of using such naturally derived anionic surfactants is that they increase the naturalness index of the composition without reducing its foaming properties, especially when incorporated into the composition as a partial substitute for anionic surfactants selected from ethanesulfonic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts.

[0033] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the total content of a nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms and / or an amphoteric surfactant other than amamidopropyl betaine in the composition is between 1 and 20% by weight, preferably between 2 and 15% by weight, more preferably between 2 and 10% by weight, and even more preferably between 3 and 8% by weight (relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0034] The total content of nonionic surfactants in the composition is preferably between 10 and 35% by weight, particularly between 15 and 30% by weight, and more preferably between 20 and 30% by weight (relative to the total weight of surfactants contained in the composition).

[0035] Preferably, all nonionic surfactants contained in the compositions according to the invention are alkyl glucosides with alkyl groups comprising 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0036] The total content of the nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms in the composition is preferably between 1 and 20% by weight, more preferably between 2 and 15% by weight, more preferably between 2 and 10% by weight, and even more preferably between 3 and 8% by weight (relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0037] The total content of amphoteric surfactants in the composition, excluding amide propyl betaine, is preferably between 1 and 10% by weight, and more preferably between 1 and 5% by weight (relative to the total weight of surfactants contained in the composition).

[0038] When present in the composition, the total content of anionic surfactants selected from acylglutamic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts is preferably between 1 and 30% by weight, more preferably between 1 and 20% by weight, more preferably between 5 and 15% by weight, or between 3 and 8% by weight (relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0039] In a particular embodiment of the invention, when present in the composition, the total content of anionic surfactants selected from acylglutamic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts is further between 20 and 40% by weight, particularly between 20 and 30% by weight (relative to the total weight of surfactants contained in the composition).

[0040] When present in the compositions according to the invention, one or more anionic surfactants selected from acylglutamic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts are preferably selected from acylglutamic acid whose acyl groups comprise saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon chains having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The acyl group may be particularly selected from lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, oliveoyl, cocoyl, and oleoyl. The cosmetically acceptable salt of acylglutamic acid may be selected from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, and ammonium salts. For example, it is selected from sodium, potassium, lithium, or magnesium salts, wherein sodium and potassium salts are particularly preferred in the context of this invention. Anionic surfactants selected from acylglutamates and their cosmetically acceptable salts may, for example, be selected from the group consisting of compounds having the following INCI names: sodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, and sodium stearoyl glutamate. Several anionic surfactants selected from acylglutamates and their cosmetically acceptable salts, particularly those having the above-described characteristics, may be used in the compositions according to the invention, which may, for example, comprise any mixture of any two or more of the compounds listed above. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise a single anionic surfactant selected from acylglutamates and their cosmetically acceptable salts, which preferably has one or more of the above-described characteristics, or does not contain such surfactants.

[0041] The nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides with alkyl groups comprising 8 to 16 carbon atoms is preferably selected from compounds having the following INCI names: octyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and decyl glucoside. Several nonionic surfactants selected from alkyl glucosides with alkyl groups comprising 8 to 16 carbon atoms can be used in the compositions according to the invention, which may, for example, comprise any mixture of any two or more of the above-mentioned compounds (octyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and decyl glucoside). Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise a single nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides with alkyl groups comprising 8 to 16 carbon atoms, which preferably has one or more of the above-mentioned characteristics, or does not contain such surfactants.

[0042] Amphoteric surfactants other than amide-propyl betaine may be selected from, for example, sodium decanoyl amphoteric acetate, sodium decanoyl amphoteric propionate, sodium octanoyl amphoteric acetate, sodium octanoyl amphoteric propionate, sodium cocoyl amphoteric acetate, sodium cocoyl amphoteric propionate, sodium isostearyl amphoteric acetate, sodium isostearyl amphoteric propionate, sodium lauroyl amphoteric acetate, sodium lauroyl amphoteric propionate, sodium oleoyl amphoteric acetate, sodium oleoyl amphoteric propionate, sodium stearyl amphoteric acetate, sodium stearyl amphoteric propionate, sodium tallow amphoteric acetate, and wheat germ oil. Sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium decanoylamphodiacetate, disodium decanoylamphodiapropionate, disodium octanoylamphodiacetate, disodium cocoylamphodiacetate, disodium isostearylamphodiacetate, disodium lauroylamphodiacetate, disodium oleoylamphodiapropionate, disodium octanoylamphodiapropionate, disodium cocoylamphodiapropionate, disodium isostearylamphodiapropionate, disodium lauroylamphodiapropionate, disodium stearylamphodiacetate, disodium tallowylamphodiacetate, and disodium wheat germ oleoylamphodiacetate.

[0043] Preferably, the at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amylpropyl betaine is selected from lauryl betaine, cocoyl betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate, and disodium cocoamphodiacetate.

[0044] Several amphoteric surfactants other than amamidopropyl betaine can be used in the compositions according to the invention, which may, for example, comprise any mixture of any two or more of the compounds described above, particularly two or more of lauryl betaine, cocoyl betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate, and disodium cocoamphodiacetate. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise a single amphoteric surfactant other than amamidopropyl betaine, which preferably has one or more of the characteristics described above, or does not contain such surfactants.

[0045] Among the amamidopropyl betaines excluded from the compositions according to the invention, the following compounds may be specifically mentioned: behenamidopropyl betaine, capryloyl / decamidopropyl betaine, cocamamidopropyl betaine, isostearamidopropyl betaine, lauramidamidopropyl betaine, myristamidopropyl betaine, stearamidopropyl betaine, undecenoamidopropyl betaine, and amamidopropyl betaines derived from almonds, apricots, avocados, babassu, rapeseed, coconut oil, sunflower oil, oats, olives, palm oil, castor oil, soybeans, shea butter, or wheat germ.

[0046] The anionic surfactant selected from ethanesulfonic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts is preferably selected from acyl ethanesulfonic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, such as substances with the following INCI names: sodium cocoyl ethanesulfonate, sodium lauroyl ethanesulfonate, sodium cocoyl methyl ethanesulfonate, and sodium lauroyl methyl ethanesulfonate. Several anionic surfactants selected from acyl ethanesulfonic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts can be used in the compositions according to the invention, which may, for example, comprise any mixture of any two or more of the above-mentioned compounds. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise a single anionic surfactant selected from ethanesulfonic acids, preferably acyl ethanesulfonic acids, and their cosmetically acceptable salts, which preferably has one or more of the above-mentioned characteristics, or does not contain such surfactants.

[0047] The anionic surfactant selected from sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts is preferably selected from alkyl sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, such as substances with the INCI name disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate. Several anionic surfactants selected from sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts can be used in the compositions according to the invention. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise a single anionic surfactant selected from sulfosuccinic acids, preferably alkyl sulfosuccinic acids, and their cosmetically acceptable salts, which preferably has one or more of the above-mentioned characteristics, or does not contain such surfactants.

[0048] Generally, compositions according to the invention preferably contain as few surfactants as possible. Therefore, in specific embodiments of the invention, the composition does not contain more than six surfactants, preferably no more than five surfactants, more preferably no more than four surfactants, and preferably three or two surfactants. As mentioned above, strong foaming properties can be obtained using two or three of the specific surfactant families defined above, which is advantageous for minimizing the number of components in the composition.

[0049] The compositions according to the invention may contain other anionic surfactants besides those defined above. Preferably, they do not contain any anionic surfactants other than ethanesulfonic acid, ethanesulfonate, sulfosuccinic acid, sulfosuccinate, acylglutamic acid, and acylglutamate. Similarly, the compositions according to the invention may contain other nonionic surfactants besides those defined above. Preferably, they do not contain any nonionic surfactants other than alkyl glycosides whose alkyl groups contain 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0050] The compositions according to the invention may further comprise one or more cationic surfactants, for example, when used as a conditioning agent in cosmetic treatments of hair. Preferably, it does not contain any cationic surfactants of non-natural origin, and more generally, it preferably does not contain any cationic surfactants at all.

[0051] In certain embodiments of the present invention, the composition contains only the following substances as surfactants: - One or more, preferably a single, nonionic surfactants selected from alkyl glucosides whose alkyl groups contain 8 to 16 carbon atoms, or one or more amphoteric surfactants other than amide-propyl betaine. - Anionic surfactants selected from one or more, preferably a single, hydroxyethanesulfonic acid, preferably an acyl hydroxyethanesulfonic acid, and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, and sulfosuccinic acid, preferably an alkyl sulfosuccinic acid, and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof. - and optionally, one or more, preferably a single, anionic surfactant selected from acylglutamic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts.

[0052] Preferably, the composition contains only the following substances as surfactants: - One or more, preferably a single, nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides whose alkyl groups comprise 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably in a content between 2 and 10% by weight, for example between 3 and 8% by weight. (relative to the total weight of the composition), - One or more, preferably a single, anionic surfactant selected from hydroxyethanesulfonic acid, preferably acyl hydroxyethanesulfonic acid, and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, preferably in a content between 10 and 20% by weight, for example between 10 and 15% by weight (relative to the total weight of the composition). - and optionally, one or more, preferably a single, anionic surfactant selected from acylglutamic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts, preferably in a content between 1 and 20% by weight, for example, between 3 and 8% by weight. Between (relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0053] In such embodiments, more preferably, the respective content of each type of surfactant relative to the total content of surfactants in the composition is expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of surfactants in the composition, as follows: -20 to 30% of a nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms in an alkyl group, and 70 to 80% of an anionic surfactant selected from hydroxyethanesulfonic acid, preferably acyl hydroxyethanesulfonic acid, and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof. - or 20 to 30% of a nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms in an alkyl group, 40 to 60% of anionic surfactant selected from hydroxyethanesulfonic acid, preferably acyl hydroxyethanesulfonic acid, and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, and 20 to 30% of anionic surfactant selected from acyl glutamic acid and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof.

[0054] The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one aliphatic thickener in an amount between 30 and 65% by weight, preferably between 30 and 60% by weight, and more preferably between 35 and 55% by weight (relative to the total weight of the composition). Such a concentration of thickener in the composition, combined with fillers that may also be included therein (as described below), advantageously ensures optimal hardness and viscous characteristics of the composition; in particular, the hardness is low enough to prevent the composition from crumbling during user handling, and high enough to give the composition an easily handleable consistency, and the viscousness is strong enough to give the composition good cohesion, while being low enough not to diminish its usability and pleasantness.

[0055] The compositions according to the invention may particularly contain one or more thickening agents selected from fatty alcohols, preferably C16 to C22 fatty alcohols, fatty acids, especially C16 to C18 fatty acids, hydrogenated vegetable oils and hydrogenated castor oils. Preferably, it contains at least one thickening agent selected from C16 to C22 fatty alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and / or behenyl alcohol.

[0056] In certain embodiments of the invention, when the composition comprises at least one or more fatty alcohols and one or more fatty acids as thickening agents, the total fatty alcohol content is higher than, preferably at least 4 times higher, preferably at least 5 times higher, and even 6 times higher than the total fatty acid content. This characteristic advantageously ensures that the composition has good quality properties, particularly a uniform texture, a pleasantly smooth and glossy appearance, and good consistency.

[0057] In certain embodiments, the composition according to the invention, when containing one or more fatty acids as thickeners, also contains at least one fatty alcohol or hydrogenated vegetable oil or hydrogenated castor oil.

[0058] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, at least one thickening agent is included in the composition in a separate amount of greater than 15% by weight, preferably greater than 20% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 35% by weight, and particularly greater than or equal to 40% by weight (relative to the total weight of the composition). The thickening agent is preferably a C16 to C22 fatty alcohol, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or behenyl alcohol.

[0059] The content of the thickening agent in the composition may, for example, be greater than 15% by weight and less than or equal to 65% by weight, preferably greater than 20% by weight and less than or equal to 65% by weight, or even between 30% and 65% by weight, preferably between 30% and 60% by weight, and preferably between 35% and 55% by weight (relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0060] In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the content of at least one thickening agent in the composition is higher than the total content of anionic surfactants selected from ethanesulfonic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts in the composition.

[0061] Therefore, in embodiments of the invention, the total content of anionic surfactants selected from hydroxyethanesulfonic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts is less than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, according to the invention, the composition contains at least one thickening agent in a separate amount greater than 20% by weight (relative to the weight of the composition), which is preferably a C16 to C22 fatty alcohol.

[0062] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, where the total content of anionic surfactants selected from ethanesulfonic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts is less than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition only needs to contain at least one thickening agent in a single content greater than 15% by weight (relative to the weight of the composition). Similarly, this thickening agent is preferably a C16 to C22 fatty alcohol.

[0063] The compositions according to the invention may further comprise one or more emulsifiers, such as ethylene glycol palmitate (INCI name) or as trade name. 68 (cetearearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside) and Products sold with 82 (cetearearyl alcohol (and) cocoyl glucoside). Alternatively, it may not contain them. Preferably, it does not contain emulsifiers formed from a mixture of arachidonic acid, behenyl alcohol, and arachidonic acid glucoside, for example, under the trade name... 202 The mixture sold.

[0064] In certain embodiments of the invention, the composition contains one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients. Each of these excipients is preferably selected from fillers, emollients (especially oils), conditioning agents, stabilizers, fragrances, colorants, and pigments.

[0065] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition, as a cosmetically acceptable excipient, comprises at least one filler, which may be of mineral or organic origin.

[0066] Mineral-based fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention include clay, ceramic beads, calcium carbonate, titanium dioxide, kaolin, and aluminum silicate. Organic-based fillers include starch, maltodextrin, cellulose (such as cellulose beads, microcrystalline cellulose), sodium carbonate, nylon microspheres, micronized or non-micronized plant powders (such as fruit powder or bamboo powder), and rice husk powder, and mixtures thereof.

[0067] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains at least one filler selected from kaolin, maltodextrin, starch, cellulose, calcium carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0068] The starches that can be used in this invention may be derived from plant sources, such as cereals, tubers, roots, vegetables, and fruits. These may include, for example, corn starch, potato starch, pea starch, rice starch, oat starch, barley starch, cassia starch, wheat starch, cassia seed starch, or sorghum starch. These starches may or may not be modified. Modified starches are starches modified by methods known to those skilled in the art, such as esterification, etherification, oxidation, acid hydrolysis, cross-linking, or enzymatic conversion. As cellulose, for example, products marketed under trade names may be used. Microcrystalline cellulose sold by CS 9FM. It can be used, for example, by Imerys under the trade name... Opaque sells kaolin.

[0069] The total amount of filler in the composition according to the invention is preferably between 5 and 25% by weight, more preferably between 5 and 20% by weight, for example between 15 and 20% by weight (relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0070] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains at least one filler in an amount greater than 15% by weight (relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0071] Therefore, preferably, the total content of thickeners in the composition, especially when the composition contains only one or more fatty alcohols as thickeners, or when it mainly contains one or more fatty alcohols as thickeners, is greater than the total content of fillers in the composition.

[0072] Furthermore, when the composition contains one or more oils, the total content of fillers is preferably greater than the total content of oils.

[0073] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the oil content of the composition is less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 4% by weight, and more preferably less than 3% by weight (relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0074] The compositions according to the invention may contain one or more emollients, particularly selected from plant oils such as sunflower seed oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, or jojoba oil, and lipids such as shea butter, for example under the trade name Lipex. or SB 45 sells glycerin, lauroyl lysine, for example, under the trade name Sold by LL.

[0075] The content of emollient in the composition according to the invention is, for example, between 2 and 20% by weight, preferably between 2 and 15% by weight, and particularly between 2 and 10% by weight (relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0076] The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more pH adjusters. It preferably does not contain any pH adjusters, particularly those of the type such as NaOH, citric acid, and lactic acid.

[0077] In certain embodiments of the invention, the composition contains one or more conditioning agents, preferably not belonging to the cationic surfactant category. Such agents provide beneficial effects on both hair and skin. Each of these conditioning agents may be particularly selected from isoamyl lauryl ester, lauroyl lysine, erythritol, glyceryl oleate (e.g., by trade name) Combinations of OG-sold polyglycerol-4-decanoate, chitosan, and mandelic acid, or any mixture thereof. The total amount of conditioning agent in the composition is preferably between 0.01 and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 2% by weight, and most preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight (relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0078] The compositions according to the invention may further contain one or more conditioning agents selected from guar gum and its derivatives (such as hydroxypropyl guar gum), in a total amount between 0.01 and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 2% by weight, and more preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight (relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0079] Optionally, the composition according to the invention may further contain one or more stabilizers, such as chelating agents, for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (trade name...). GL-47-S (sold by brand), Vitamin E, or tocopheryl acetate (by brand name) (T-90 sold).

[0080] The compositions according to the invention may contain one or more cosmetic active agents, particularly via a topical route, such as those selected from moisturizers, antioxidants, vitamins, etc.

[0081] The content of cosmetic active agent in the composition according to the invention may be, for example, between 0.05 and 3% by weight (relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0082] In specific embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises one or more cosmetic active agents, each preferably selected from hyaluronic acid, oat wort, immortelle extract, immortelle essential oil, meadowfoam oil (especially meadowfoam seed oil), oat sprouts, and flower acids (e.g., under the trade name Acides de Products sold), Garcinia Cambogia extract, Milk thistle oil, Niacinamide, Edelweiss extract (e.g., by trade name) Edelweiss sells products including cinchona extract, caffeine, peony extract, mango seed butter, and citron extract. This list is by no means exhaustive.

[0083] The compositions according to the invention may also contain an exfoliating agent that exfoliates the skin (including the scalp) through mechanical and / or chemical action. In the context of this invention, exfoliating agents that act through a combination of mechanical and chemical action are particularly preferred. The exfoliating agent may be a reagent of mineral, plant, or organic origin. Thus, for example, the following may be used: polyethylene beads or powder, nylon granules, polyvinyl chloride powder, pumice (INCI name: pumice), walnut shells, sawdust, wood flour, cork flour, glass beads, alumina (INCI name: Alumina), sugar crystals, beads that melt upon application to the skin, such as mannitol and cellulose-based spheres, agar-based capsules, jojoba ester-based spheres, fruit kernel powder (e.g., apricot kernels), and mixtures thereof. The exfoliating agent used is preferably insoluble in water.

[0084] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition does not contain polyethylene glycol (PEG).

[0085] In addition, it is preferably free of aluminum silicate and magnesium silicate, and more generally, free of silicon dioxide.

[0086] The compositions according to the invention, in their desired form, can be prepared using any conventional method typically used to prepare solid cosmetic compositions. In the context of the invention, extrusion and hot casting methods are particularly preferred.

[0087] The method for preparing the composition according to the invention by extrusion includes preparing a preform containing a surfactant, a thickener, and an excipient of the composition, and then adding other possible ingredients thereto, particularly surfactants and / or fragrances. The mixture is then extruded through different sieves to homogenize and refine it. Once the mixture is homogenized, it forms a clump, which is cut and pressed to obtain a solid composition of the desired shape.

[0088] A method for preparing the composition according to the invention by hot casting includes mixing the components of the composition and heating the resulting mixture to a temperature of about 75 to 80°C. The homogenized hot mixture is then poured into a mold of the desired shape and allowed to cool.

[0089] Both of these preparation methods are rapid and easy to implement.

[0090] Another aspect of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the solid cosmetic compositions according to the invention for cleansing and / or caring for (including exfoliation) an individual’s skin, particularly the skin of the body and / or face and / or scalp, and / or for hair, preferably by topical application.

[0091] This application preferably includes a series of steps: -Wet the composition with water - Foaming is generated, especially by rubbing the wetted surface of the composition. - Apply this foam to the skin and / or hair, which is preferably pre-wetted. - And rinsing, preferably with water, optionally after the dwell time and / or massage.

[0092] These steps can be performed once or twice a day, for example, in the morning or evening, or as needed.

[0093] The solid cosmetic compositions according to the invention are particularly suitable for cleansing and / or caring for sensitive or atopic skin.

[0094] In this specification, sensitive skin refers to skin that is prone to irritation or allergic reactions due to various internal and external non-immunological factors. The term atopic skin refers to skin affected by inflammatory conditions, characterized by dryness accompanied by itching, such as eczema or atopic dermatitis.

[0095] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for individual skin and / or hair hygiene and / or care, by using a solid cosmetic composition according to the present invention. The method comprises the following steps: -Wet the composition with water -Produces foam, - Apply the foam to the skin and / or hair. - And rinsing, preferably with water.

[0096] This method may respond to any feature or combination of features described above with reference to the cosmetic use of the compositions according to the invention.

[0097] Example

[0098] The features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent from the following examples, which are provided purely as illustrative and not limiting examples of the invention.

[0099] 1 / Examples of Compositions

[0100] The solid compositions C1, C2 and C3 according to the present invention are used for cosmetic treatment, hygiene and care of body and facial skin, satisfying the properties shown in Table 1 below. C1 C2 C3 Ingredient (INCI name) weight% weight% weight% Sodium cocoyl hydroxyethanesulfonate 10 10 15 Decyl glucoside 5 5 5 Sodium myristoyl glutamate 5 5 - Mountain Yu Chun 45 43 45 Stearic acid / palmitic acid 7 7 7 corn starch 20 20 20 Polyglycerol-4-decanoate - 2 - Sunflower seed oil 2 2 2 Shea butter 1 1 1 water 5 5 5

[0101] Table 1 - Examples of compositions according to the present invention for body and facial skin hygiene and care

[0102] Solid compositions Comp4, Comp5, Comp6, Comp7, and Comp8 that do not conform to the present invention are used for cosmetic treatment, hygiene, and care of body and facial skin, and satisfy the properties listed in Table 2 below.

[0103] Table 2 - Examples of compositions that do not conform to the present invention

[0104] 2 / Evaluation of composition properties

[0105] The composition of Example 1 was evaluated according to the following criteria: • Foaming ability (quantity / quality): foam height, foam creaminess, foam softness, • Good tolerability, physiological pH value, low allergenicity, and gentler on the skin. Stability over time Sensory characteristics (color, odor), • Hardness, measured using a texture analyzer, requires the composition to have sufficient consistency to prevent crumbling but not to be too soft. • Viscosity, measured by a texture analyzer, dictates that the composition must possess sufficient viscosity to prevent breakage, but not so high that it is comfortable to use and can be prepared under favorable conditions, particularly in extrusion equipment. • pH value: After diluting 1 gram of the composition in 100 grams of water, the pH value is measured using a pH meter to check whether the pH value corresponds to the physiological pH value of the skin.

[0106] Therefore, the following operational plan was implemented.

[0107] Hardness and viscosity were evaluated using a TA.XTplus texture analyzer equipped with a probe featuring a penetration and retraction rate of 1 mm / s, a trigger force of 5 g, a distance of 8 mm, and a P / P2N probe. The composition was fixed on the stage of the texture analyzer, and the following were measured: probe penetration force (hardness measurement) and probe retraction force (viscosity assessment). Results are given in grams.

[0108] To assess the foam height, use a 250 ml graduated cylinder with a stopper, 38.9 cm outer diameter and 36 cm inner diameter. Place 0.5 g of the composition into the graduated cylinder and add deionized water to a final volume of 50 ml. Stopper the cylinder and shake vigorously 10 times. Read the foam height in millimeters.

[0109] The approximate naturalness index of each composition was also determined according to the calculation method of ISO 16128:2017.

[0110] The results are shown in Table 3 below. Composition Naturalness Index pH Foam height C1 +++ 5.84 +++ C2 +++ 5.89 +++ C3 ++ 6.32 +++ Comp4 +++ 5.78 + Comp5 + 4.96 +++ Comp6 +++ 5.75 + Comp7 +++ 5.76 + Comp8 + 4.98 ++

[0111] Table 3 - Properties of the composition

[0112] Naturalness Index: + indicates an index less than or equal to 80%; ++ indicates an index greater than 80% and less than 90%; +++ indicates an index greater than or equal to 90%.

[0113] Foam height: + indicates a height less than or equal to 60 mm; ++ indicates a height greater than 60 mm and less than 95 mm; +++ indicates a height greater than or equal to 95 mm.

[0114] Comparing compositions Comp5 and Comp8, which contain only sodium cocoyl isosulfonate as a surfactant, they exhibit very good foam height, as expected, but this comes at the cost of the overall naturalness of these compositions, which is less than 80%, while the other ingredients are the same. Furthermore, the pH values ​​of these compositions appear to be quite low (close to the lower limit of the physiological pH range for skin).

[0115] Furthermore, it was observed that compositions C1, C2, and C3 according to the present invention all have foam height: • Comp5 and Comp8 are as large as, or even larger than, comparative compositions using only sodium cocoyl ethanesulfonate as a surfactant with comparable composition and total surfactant content. • And significantly higher than the comparative compositions Comp4, Comp6 and Comp7, which have a comparable naturalness index (85% or higher).

[0116] Therefore, the combination of decyl glucoside and sodium cocoyl isosulfonate allows for an increase in the naturalness index of the composition without compromising its foaming ability. By incorporating sodium myristoyl glutamate into the composition to replace a portion of the sodium cocoyl isosulfonate, an even higher (greater than or equal to 90%) naturalness index can be obtained without affecting the foaming ability.

[0117] The presence of a conditioning agent such as polyglycerol-4-decanoate in composition C2 according to the invention advantageously does not impair the foaming ability of the composition. Conversely, when this component is included in the comparative compositions, it adversely affects the foaming ability (the foam height of composition Comp8 is reduced by 10 mm compared to Comp5, and that of composition Comp7 compared to Comp4). Therefore, conditioning agents can be included in the compositions according to the invention without affecting their foaming ability. This characteristic is particularly advantageous because it allows for the creation of compositions with improved sensory properties without sacrificing any foaming efficacy.

[0118] For all compositions C1 to C3 according to the invention, the hardness and viscosity are perfectly satisfactory. These compositions have a hardness and viscosity that ensures they do not break and are neither too soft nor too sticky, making them practical and pleasant to use, and easy to mold, especially in extrusion equipment. They also have an attractive appearance and a uniform texture.

[0119] 3 / The effect of thickener on foaming ability

[0120] Table 4 below describes composition C9 according to the invention. This composition differs from composition C1 according to the invention described above (whose composition is reiterated in Table 4) only in that the ratio of fatty alcohol (INCI name: "behenol") / fatty acid (INCI name: "stearic acid / palmitic acid") (thickening agent) is reversed.

[0121] The foam heights achieved for each composition are also shown in Table 4. Composition C1 C9 Ingredient (INCI name) weight% weight% Sodium cocoyl hydroxyethanesulfonate 10 10 Decyl glucoside 5 5 Sodium myristoyl glutamate 5 5 Mountain Yu Chun 45 7 Stearic acid / palmitic acid 7 45 corn starch 20 20 Sunflower seed oil 2 2 Shea butter 1 1 water 5 5 Foam height +++ ++

[0122] Table 4 - Foam height of the compositions according to the present invention obtained due to different thickener combinations

[0123] Foam height: ++ indicates a height greater than 60 mm and less than 95 mm; +++ indicates a height greater than or equal to 95 mm.

[0124] It can be seen that the foaming ability is optimized by having fatty alcohols present in a major amount in the thickener. When the amount of fatty alcohol is greater than the amount of fatty acids, as in composition C1, the foaming ability is particularly high. When the amount of fatty alcohol is less than the amount of fatty acids, as in composition C9, the foaming ability is still satisfactory, albeit lower.

[0125] 4 / Examples of hair compositions according to the present invention

[0126] Table 5 below describes solid cosmetic compositions C11, C12, and C13 according to the present invention, which are particularly suitable for cosmetic treatments of hair. The table also shows the foam height measured for each composition according to the scheme of Example 2. Composition C11 C12 C13 Ingredient (INCI name) weight% weight% weight% Sodium cocoyl hydroxyethanesulfonate 10 10 15 Decyl glucoside 3-8 3-8 2-10 Sodium myristoyl glutamate 5-15 5 - Mountain Yu Chun 44 40-50 40-50 Stearic acid / palmitic acid 7 1-10 1-10 corn starch 19 15-25 15-25 Glyceryl oleate 0.5 - - Hydroxypropyl guar gum - 0.3 - Isoamyl laurate - - 1.8 Quinine extract 1.5 1.5 1.5 Sunflower seed oil 2 2 2 Shea butter 1 1 1 water Add to 100 Add to 100 Add to 100 Foam height +++ +++ +++

[0127] Table 5 - Solid hair cosmetic compositions according to the present invention - +++ indicates a foam height greater than or equal to 95 mm

[0128] All three compositions combine high naturalness with high foaming capacity.

[0129] 5 / Sensory characteristics of the compositions according to the invention compared with those of commercially available synthetic detergents based on ethanesulfonates.

[0130] In this example, two compositions were tested: a composition C10 according to the invention for body and facial skin hygiene and care, and a commercially available solid composition Comp14 that does not conform to the invention, a solid hibiscus facial cleanser for dry and sensitive skin. The purpose of this test was to compare the sensory properties of the two compositions.

[0131] Composition C10 according to the present invention is described in Table 6 below: Ingredient (INCI name) weight% Sodium cocoyl hydroxyethanesulfonate 10 Decyl glucoside 5 Sodium myristoyl glutamate 5 Mountain Yu Chun 45 Stearic acid / palmitic acid 7 corn starch 20 Sunflower seed oil 2 Shea butter 1 Milk thistle oil 1 essence Appropriate amount water Add to 100

[0132] Table 6 - Composition C14 according to the present invention

[0133] For the commercial solid composition Comp14 that does not conform to the present invention, the ingredient list indicated on the packaging is as follows (INCI name):

[0134] Sodium cocoyl ethanesulfonate, stearic acid, palmitic acid, coconut oil, oat kernel powder, water, hibiscus pollen, sunflower seed oil, decyl glucoside, hybrid lavender oil, arnica flower extract, tocopherol, geraniol, limonene, linalool. Sodium cocoyl ethanesulfonate is the main component of this composition, and its weight content in the composition is higher than that of the thickeners stearic acid and palmitic acid.

[0135] The sensory characteristics of the composition were evaluated by 15 volunteers trained in sensory techniques for topical products, using a single-item testing method, with the aim of assessing: - First, the foaming ability of the product when applied (Stage 1), (Then rinse the product), -Secondly, the appearance of the skin 15 minutes after rinsing (stage 2).

[0136] The test was conducted in a room with controlled light, temperature, and humidity. The room was rinsed with 37°C water at a steady flow rate.

[0137] Different criteria were evaluated, as detailed in Table 7 below.

[0138] Table 7 - Description of Evaluation Criteria

[0139] The computer questionnaire presented an unstructured analog measurement scale from 0 to 100 for each criterion on a computer screen. The evaluation results are summarized in Table 8 below.

[0140] Table 8 - Sensory Assessment Results - ** indicates significant difference

[0141] Significant differences were observed when the composition was applied (**). The composition C10 according to the invention is able to form foam more quickly, produce richer foam, contain more bubbles, and significantly more bubbles compared to the commercially available composition Comp14.

[0142] It should be noted that the sensory analysis results for the skin appearance characteristics of the two compositions 15 minutes after rinsing off the resulting mixture were similar. Therefore, the improvement in foaming properties was not achieved at the expense of the other sensory criteria mentioned above.

Claims

1. A solid cosmetic composition, characterized in that, It includes: 30 to 65% by weight of a thickening agent relative to the total weight of the composition. At least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides whose alkyl groups contain 8 to 16 carbon atoms and / or at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amide propyl betaine. At least one anionic surfactant selected from ethanesulfonic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts, wherein the total content of the anionic surfactant selected from ethanesulfonic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts is less than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Furthermore, the total content of surfactants in the composition is between 10% and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. And in the composition: The composition contains less than 8% by weight of water relative to its total weight. It contains no gelling agent, or contains less than 1% by weight of gelling agent relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of at least one of the thickening agents in the composition is greater than 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising at least one anionic surfactant selected from acylglutamic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts.

4. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the acyl group of the at least one anionic surfactant selected from acylglutamic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts is lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearyl, oliveyl, cocoyl, or oleyl.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant is octyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, or decyl glucoside.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amide propyl betaine is cocoyl betaine, lauryl betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate, or disodium cocoamphodiacetate.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the surfactant comprises only: One or more nonionic surfactants selected from alkyl glucosides containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms in an alkyl group. One or more anionic surfactants selected from hydroxyethanesulfonic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts. And optionally, one or more anionic surfactants selected from acylglutamic acid and its cosmetically acceptable salts.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the content of a nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides comprising 8 to 16 carbon atoms and / or an amphoteric surfactant other than amylpropyl betaine is between 1% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising one or more thickening agents selected from fatty alcohols, fatty acids and hydrogenated castor oil.

10. The composition according to claim 9, comprising at least one thickening agent selected from C16 to C22 fatty alcohols.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein it is free of anionic surfactants and / or paraffins containing at least one sulfate ester group.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient selected from fillers, emollients, conditioning agents, stabilizers, fragrances, pigments, colorants, and mixtures thereof.

13. The composition according to claim 12, comprising at least one filler selected from kaolin, maltodextrin, starch, cellulose, calcium carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

14. The composition according to claim 12 or 13, wherein the amount of total filler contained therein is between 5% and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, further comprising an exfoliating agent.

16. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, comprising at least one cosmetic active agent selected from hyaluronic acid, oat wort, immortelle extract, immortelle essential oil, meadowfoam oil, oat sprouts, flower acid, Garcinia cambogia extract, milk thistle oil, niacinamide, edelweiss extract, cinchona bark extract, caffeine, peony extract, mango seed butter, and citron extract.

17. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, wherein it is packaged in the form of strips, pebbles, rods or spheres.

18. The non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17 for cleansing and / or caring for skin and / or hair.

19. The use as described in claim 18, for cleaning and / or caring for sensitive skin.

20. A non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for skin and / or hair hygiene and / or care, comprising the use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, the method comprising the following steps: Wet the composition with water. Foam is produced. Apply the foam to the skin and / or hair. And rinsing.

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