Integrally-formed light elastic knitted double-faced woolen fabric, preparation method thereof and preparation method of ready-made clothes

The method for preparing lightweight elastic double-faced wool fabric with a three-layer knitted structure solves the problem of insufficient elasticity and softness in woven double-faced wool fabric, achieves high-precision slitting and antistatic properties, and expands the application range.

CN120989807APending Publication Date: 2025-11-21GUANGDONG ESQUEL TEXTILES CO LTD
View PDF 2 Cites 0 Cited by

Patent Information

Application Number
CN202511146463.3
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2025-08-15
Publication Date
2025-11-21

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing woven double-faced wool fabrics have limitations in terms of elasticity, softness, and limited style, making it difficult to meet diverse application needs, and they are prone to damage during the slitting process.

Method used

A three-layer lightweight elastic double-faced wool fabric, consisting of an outer layer, a connecting layer, and an underlayer, is prepared using a knitting method. The connecting layer is precisely separated during slitting by tuck knitting. Antistatic yarn and low-melting-point core-spun yarn are combined to improve the elasticity and antistatic properties of the fabric. Post-treatments such as washing, shrinking, and steaming are used to improve fiber density and hand feel.

Benefits of technology

It achieves lightweight, high elasticity, and a soft hand feel, with high slit precision to avoid damage, thus expanding the application scenarios of double-faced wool fabric.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

Smart Images

  • Figure BDA0005551160860000081
    Figure BDA0005551160860000081
  • Figure HDA0005551160870000011
    Figure HDA0005551160870000011
  • Figure HDA0005551160870000012
    Figure HDA0005551160870000012
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

The invention provides an integrally-formed light elastic knitted double-faced woolen fabric, a preparation method thereof and a preparation method of ready-made clothes. The preparation method of the double-faced woolen fabric comprises the following steps: obtaining gray fabric with at least three layers of structures by adopting a knitting mode, wherein the three layers of structures comprise a surface layer, a bottom layer and a connecting layer; the surface layer and the bottom layer are respectively provided with a jacquard structure with a raised looped pile effect, and raised looped piles are yarns containing animal wool fibers; the connecting layer is woven by tucks, and the tucks are located between the surface layer and the bottom layer; post-treatment is conducted on the gray fabric, the double-faced woolen fabric is obtained, and post-treatment comprises woolen washing, fulling, first-time decating, fuzzing, shearing, lustring, shaping and second-time decating. Through innovative knitting process design and material application, the novel double-faced woolen fabric which has the advantage of integral forming and has light weight, elasticity, softness and antistatic property is developed, the style of the double-faced woolen fabric is expanded, and the double-faced woolen fabric is suitable for clothes such as coats, trousers and waistcoats.
Need to check novelty before this filing date? Find Prior Art

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to a one-piece molded lightweight elastic knitted double-faced wool fabric, its preparation method, and the preparation method of the finished garment, belonging to the field of textile technology. Background Technology

[0002] Double-faced wool garments boast advantages such as warmth, a crisp and structured appearance, a full and dense texture, a delicate and smooth feel, and lightweight comfort. Garments made from double-faced wool are exquisite and high-end, and have become increasingly popular with consumers in recent years. The advantage of double-faced wool garments lies in their unlined nature; through a special slit-sewing process, no facings or linings are needed, and both sides can be used as the outer surface. The key manufacturing processes and sequence for double-faced wool garments are: stitching and positioning, positioning and slit-sewing, positioning and interfacing, splicing, and prying.

[0003] The preparation of double-faced wool fabric has two main characteristics: 1. It is usually woven with a double-layer structure with the upper and lower layers joined together to meet the requirements of slitting. When slitting, the two layers of fabric are cut along the edge of the fabric to the positioning line for sewing with another piece of clothing. During the slitting process, the fabric must be kept flat and without any damage. 2. In the finishing process, double-faced wool fabric needs to go through processes such as washing, shrinking, steaming, raising, shearing, and calendering. This process ensures that the fiber layers of the fabric after raising on both sides can cover the weave texture while making the raised fiber layers dense and smooth.

[0004] However, common problems with woven fabrics, such as limitations in elasticity and softness, as well as a lack of variety in style, limit the application scenarios of double-faced wool fabrics.

[0005] Currently, some solutions have been developed to address the limitations of elasticity and softness in woven double-faced fabrics. For example, patent application number 201610790966.9 discloses a three-layer knitted composite fabric and its manufacturing process. This process uses a double-point coating method to bond the three layers together, fundamentally ensuring the morphological and dimensional stability of the composite fabric, while maintaining appropriate warp and weft deformation capabilities. However, the manufacturing process of this composite fabric is relatively complex, adding coating and bonding processes, and the three-layer structure obtained through bonding is difficult to achieve without damage during slitting.

[0006] Patent application number 201911070110.4 discloses a warp-knitted imitation double-faced wool fabric and its preparation method. The method involves weaving a three-layer structure fabric using five guide bars on a Raschel warp knitting machine. The bottom layer has a "hard" or "soft" bottom effect, while the front layer forms a yarn-dyed "herringbone" or "sesame seed" pattern. The middle layer uses polyester to connect the top and bottom layers. The bottom layer (GB1 and GB2) of the fabric produced by this method is woven with filaments and has no napping, while the front layer (GB4 and GB5) uses half-pile yarn to create a napped effect. However, the bottom layer of this fabric lacks a napping effect; it is merely a base layer, not a woolen effect. The resulting fabric is only an imitation of double-faced wool, not a double-faced wool fabric with napping on both sides. Double-faced wool is a high-end apparel fabric, meaning that both sides have a woolen effect, and the industry typically requires that the napped fiber layer on the fabric surface cover the fabric texture to reflect the density and warmth of wool. The fabric produced by this method has a non-fuzzy bottom surface, achieved by weaving a plush effect only on the front surface using pile yarn, while the bottom surface is made of polyester DTY to create a non-fuzzy sole effect. This method also fails to reveal the correlation between the three-layer structure and the seam-cutting process of double-faced wool coats. Furthermore, the connecting yarn used is 20D-50D polyester monofilament, which has strong support and low friction, resulting in a fabric thickness similar to that of flyknit shoe uppers. This makes the fabric prone to slippage and unraveling after cutting. Summary of the Invention

[0007] To solve the above-mentioned technical problems, the purpose of this invention is to provide a method for preparing double-faced wool fabric, which can obtain a one-piece molded lightweight elastic double-faced wool fabric through knitting.

[0008] To achieve the above objectives, the present invention provides a method for preparing a one-piece molded lightweight elastic knitted double-faced wool fabric, which includes the following steps:

[0009] A greige fabric with at least three layers is obtained by knitting, wherein the three layers include a top layer, a bottom layer, and a connecting layer; the top layer and the bottom layer each have a jacquard structure with a raised loop effect, wherein the raised loop is yarn containing animal hair fibers; the connecting layer is formed by tuck knitting, wherein the tuck is located between the top layer and the bottom layer;

[0010] The greige fabric is post-processed to obtain the double-faced wool fabric, wherein the post-processing includes washing, shrinking, first steaming, raising, shearing, ironing, setting, and second steaming.

[0011] In the above preparation method, preferably, the greige fabric is woven using a double-sided weft knitting circular knitting machine, which enables one-piece molding; more preferably, the double-sided weft knitting circular knitting machine is an 18G-22G double-sided weft knitting circular knitting machine.

[0012] In the above preparation method, preferably, the knitting is performed according to one of the following knitting methods:

[0013] Two types of yarn are used, and the weave is performed using a composite structure. The first and second motifs together form the top layer. The first motif is woven entirely into loops, and the second motif is woven into tucked loops and loops in sequence. The third and fourth motifs together form the connecting layer, which is a complementary tucked loop weave. The fifth and sixth motifs together form the bottom layer. The fifth motif is woven into tucked loops and loops, and the sixth motif is woven entirely into loops. The first yarn is used to weave the first, second, fifth, and sixth motifs, and the second yarn is used to weave the third and fourth motifs.

[0014] or,

[0015] Three types of yarn are used in a composite weave. The first and second dies together form the top layer. The first die is woven with the first and third yarns into full loops. The second die is woven with the second yarn into tufted loops and loops in sequence. The third and fourth dies together form the connecting layer. The second yarn is used to weave complementary tufted loops. The fifth and sixth dies together form the bottom layer. The fifth die is woven with the second yarn into tufted loops and loops. The sixth die is woven with the first and third yarns into full loops.

[0016] or,

[0017] Three types of yarn are used in a composite weave. The first and second motifs together form the top layer. The first motif is woven with the first yarn to form a full loop. The second motif is woven with the second yarn to form loops and tufts in sequence. The third and fourth motifs together form the connecting layer, which is woven with yarn 3 to form complementary loops. The fifth and sixth motifs together form the bottom layer. The fifth motif is woven with the second yarn to form loops and tufts. The sixth motif is woven with the first yarn to form a full loop.

[0018] Conventional double-faced wool coat fabric is prepared using a woven method. This invention uses a knitting method to prepare the greige fabric of the double-faced wool fabric. The greige fabric has at least three layers (preferably three to seven layers), specifically including a top layer, a connecting layer, and a bottom layer. The connecting layer, with its loop structure, plays a crucial role, specifically: connecting the top layer and the bottom layer; during the critical sewing process in double-faced wool garment making, the loop of the connecting layer is cut open, allowing for precise separation of the top layer and the bottom layer, meeting the sewing requirements of double-faced wool garment making. Preferably, the greige fabric has a five-layer structure, including a top layer, a sub-top layer, a connecting layer, a sub-bottom layer, and a bottom layer; the loop is located between the sub-top layer and the sub-bottom layer.

[0019] In the above preparation method, preferably, the thickness of the connecting layer can be controlled by adjusting the structural parameters (loop length and density) of the connecting layer. The higher the thickness of the connecting layer, the easier it is to separate the surface layer and the bottom layer, and it can effectively improve the fluffiness of the knitted double-faced fabric, creating a hollow fluffiness that woven double-faced fabric does not possess.

[0020] In the above preparation method, preferably, the fineness of the yarns of the surface layer and the bottom layer is 8S-50S, and they are single yarns or ply yarns.

[0021] In the above preparation method, the outer layer and the bottom layer can be woven from single-component / multi-component yarns containing animal fibers. Preferably, the animal hair fibers include one or more of wool, yak wool, rabbit hair, etc. More preferably, the wool includes superfine wool and / or cashmere, and the yak wool includes superfine yak wool.

[0022] In the above preparation method, preferably, the yarn containing animal hair fibers further comprises one or a combination of two synthetic fibers and / or natural fibers; more preferably, the synthetic fibers include one or a combination of two or more of acrylic fibers, microfiber acrylic fibers, polyester fibers, modified polyester fibers, sorona fibers, bicomponent polyester fibers, PTT fibers, and PBT fibers; the natural fibers include cotton fibers and / or viscose fibers.

[0023] In the above preparation method, preferably, the fiber used in the connecting layer is a filament or strand, and the breaking strength of the filament or strand is higher than 250 cN.

[0024] In the above preparation method, preferably, the filament or ply is a low-F-number twisted yarn of filament or staple fiber; more preferably, the low-F-number is 1-36F. Using such filament or ply can reduce fiber entanglement during slitting.

[0025] In the above preparation method, the connecting layer is made of loop weaving, forming loops between the top layer and the bottom layer (or the sub-top layer and the sub-bottom layer), and the connecting yarns are not exposed on the surface, so as not to affect the feel and appearance of the fabric.

[0026] In the above preparation method, preferably, the connecting layer uses antistatic filaments or yarns. Using antistatic filaments or yarns can improve the overall antistatic effect of the fabric, producing an elastic antistatic double-faced fabric. Simultaneously, the looped structure ensures that the antistatic filaments or yarns (conductive yarns) are not exposed, thus not affecting the feel and style of the double-faced fabric. Specifically, the antistatic filaments can be filaments or yarns containing stainless steel fibers.

[0027] In the above preparation method, preferably, the yarn used for the connecting layer is a core-spun yarn containing a low-melting-point component. When core-spun yarn is used, heat treatment can melt the low-melting-point component, thus producing a high-performance elastic double-sided fabric with a self-adhesive connecting layer.

[0028] In the above preparation method, preferably, the post-treatment includes washing, shrinking, first steaming, raising the front side, raising the back side, shearing the front side, shearing the back side, calendering, setting, and second steaming. After washing and shrinking, the fabric will shrink sufficiently, and the loop spacing of the raised loops will decrease.

[0029] The preparation method provided by this invention, through knitting design, can reduce the spacing of yarn loops and further increase the yarn loop density through shrinkage, thus creating favorable conditions for napping and facilitating the full utilization of yarn loops. It achieves a dense pile effect even with high yarn count and low weight. Secondly, by using tuck loops as a connecting layer, the operational difficulty of the slitting process in knitted double-faced wool fabric is reduced, improving the production stability of the fabric during slitting. This ensures that the yarns cut during slitting do not damage the structure of the front and back of the fabric, preventing holes and maintaining the integrity of the fabric surface. The knitted double-faced wool fabric prepared by the method of this invention achieves stable elasticity and resilience not found in woven fabrics, improving the wearing comfort of double-faced wool fabrics.

[0030] In the above preparation method, preferably, the washing temperature is 45-50℃, the pH value of the rinsing solution is 6.5-9, and the washing time is 15-30 min. The rinsing solution used in this invention can be a rinsing solution commonly used in the art, such as a rinsing solution containing fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether.

[0031] In the above preparation method, preferably, the shrinking temperature is 35-40℃, the pH value of the shrinking solution is 4-9, and the weaving speed is 12-20 m / min. The shrinking solution used in this invention can be a shrinking solution commonly used in the art, such as a shrinking solution containing fatty acid concentrate.

[0032] In the above preparation method, preferably, the temperatures of the first and second steaming are 165-180℃, the machine speeds are 12-18m / min, and the tensions are 70-100N.

[0033] In the above preparation method, preferably, the speed of the front and back napping is 10-14 m / min, and the front and back napping are performed 5-8 times each.

[0034] In the above preparation method, preferably, the shearing height of the front and back sides is 2-3mm, and the shearing is performed 1-2 times on each side.

[0035] In the above preparation method, preferably, the temperature of the hot stamping is 180-220℃ and the fabric speed is 15-20m / min.

[0036] In the above preparation method, preferably, the shaping temperature is 135-165℃ and the vehicle speed is 20-30m / min.

[0037] The present invention also provides a double-faced woolen fabric, which is prepared by the above-described preparation method. Preferably, the weight of the double-faced woolen fabric is 300-700 g / m². 2 The weight of the lightweight double-faced wool fabric is 300-350 g / m². 2 .

[0038] The double-faced wool fabric provided by this invention has a napped layer on both sides, and this napped layer is different from conventional napped fabrics, possessing the characteristics of dense, tight, delicate, and smooth nap. This double-faced wool fabric is a lightweight knitted double-faced wool fabric with intrinsic elasticity, soft hand feel, and a rich, dense nap.

[0039] The technical solution of the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0040] 1. Double-sided fabric is made using a knitted double-sided structure, which has excellent intrinsic elasticity and a more lively and full hand feel.

[0041] 2. Compared with ordinary woven double-faced fabric, the present invention adopts a knitted jacquard structure that makes the napped yarn protrude from the fabric. Combined with the characteristics of the yarn itself, the thickness, density and softness of the fiber layer after napping are significantly improved.

[0042] 3. The knitting method with a connecting layer structure is adopted. The connecting layer has support, which helps to improve the accuracy of the slit stitch, and the tuck stitch connection makes it easier to slit stitch.

[0043] 4. When the connecting yarn is made of antistatic yarn, the antistatic yarn will not be exposed on the fabric surface under the tucked structure. This will not affect the appearance and feel of the fabric, but will also prevent wear and tear on the antistatic yarn during use.

[0044] 5. The cut pieces are slit along the weft direction. The weft connecting lines are independent of each other, which can achieve ultra-high slit accuracy down to a single yarn. There are no excess thread ends after slitting, and the structure of other areas will not be damaged.

[0045] 6. Double-faced fabrics are prepared using knitting methods, eliminating the need for sizing and warping of the yarn, resulting in a shorter production process and higher production efficiency.

[0046] In summary, addressing the shortcomings of conventional woven double-faced wool fabrics, such as insufficient elasticity and excessive weight, this invention provides a method for preparing double-faced wool fabric based on knitting technology. Through innovative knitting process design and material application, a novel double-faced wool fabric with integrated molding advantages, lightweight, elastic, soft, and antistatic properties is developed, expanding the style of double-faced wool fabrics and making it suitable for outerwear, trousers, vests, and other garments. Attached Figure Description

[0047] Figure 1 The image shows the fabric pattern of the knitted double-faced wool fabric prepared in Example 1.

[0048] Figure 2 The image shows a pattern of the knitted double-faced fabric prepared in Example 1 after washing and shrinking.

[0049] Figure 3 The image shows the front side of the knitted double-faced fabric prepared in Example 1 after heat treatment.

[0050] Figure 4 The image shows the reverse side of the knitted double-faced fabric prepared in Example 1 after heat treatment.

[0051] Figure 5 This is a cross-sectional view of the knitted double-faced fabric prepared in Example 1.

[0052] Figure 6 This is a cross-sectional view of the knitted double-faced fabric prepared in Example 1.

[0053] Figure 7 This is a cross-section diagram of a traditional woven double-faced woolen fabric.

[0054] Figure 8 This is a cross-sectional view of a traditional woven double-faced cloth.

[0055] Figure 9 This is a seam diagram of a traditional woven double-faced wool fabric. Detailed Implementation

[0056] In order to provide a clearer understanding of the technical features, objectives and beneficial effects of the present invention, the technical solution of the present invention will now be described in detail below, but it should not be construed as limiting the scope of implementation of the present invention.

[0057] Example 1

[0058] This embodiment provides a one-piece molded lightweight elastic knitted double-faced wool fabric, which is prepared through the following steps:

[0059] The greige fabric is woven on a 22G double-sided weft-knitted circular knitting machine. Two types of yarn are used: yarn 1 is a 40S 70% wool / 30% nylon blended yarn, and yarn 2 is a 50D / 12F DTY heavy-duty filament (black yarn). The finished greige fabric has a weight of 320g / m². 2 The weaving process employs a composite weave. The first and second motifs together form the surface layer, with the first motif being fully knitted in loops and the second motif being knitted in a combination of loops and knitted in loops. The third and fourth motifs together form the connecting layer, which consists of complementary loops. The fifth and sixth motifs together form the bottom layer, with the fifth motif being knitted in loops and knitted in loops, and the sixth motif being fully knitted in loops. Yarn 1 is used to weave the first, second, fifth, and sixth motifs, while yarn 2 is used to weave the third and fourth motifs.

[0060] The woven greige fabric undergoes greige inspection, fabric repair, re-inspection, hemming, finishing, and final inspection to produce the finished double-faced wool fabric. The finishing process includes: washing, shrinking, twisting and drying, first steaming, raising the nap on the front and back sides, shearing the nap on the front and back sides, water squeezing, napping with burrs, rolling, drying, calendering, calendering and shearing, softening and shaping, and second steaming.

[0061] The washing process temperature is 45℃, the pH value of the rinsing solution is 8, and the time is 20min;

[0062] The temperature for shrinking the fabric is 40℃, the pH value of the shrinking solution is 9, and the weaving speed is 15m / min.

[0063] The temperature for rotary drying is 80℃;

[0064] The temperature of the first steaming was 170℃, the speed was 15m / min, and the tension was 85N;

[0065] The speeds for front and back surface rubbing were 12 m / min, and the front and back surface rubbing were performed 8 times each.

[0066] The height of the front and back trimming is 2mm, and the front and back trimming are performed once each;

[0067] The drying temperature is 80℃;

[0068] The temperature for heat treatment is 180℃, and the fabric speed is 15m / min;

[0069] The height of the trimmed hair after ironing is 2mm;

[0070] The temperature for softening and shaping is 180℃, and the speed is 20m / min;

[0071] The temperature of the second steaming was 170℃, the speed was 15m / min, and the tension was 85N.

[0072] The grey fabric of the double-faced woolen fabric prepared in this embodiment is as follows: Figure 1 As shown, the fabric sample after washing and shrinking is as follows: Figure 2 As shown. By Figure 1 and Figure 2 It can be seen that, with the help of the weaving method and yarn length, the napping yarn of this double-faced fabric has a significant protrusion on the surface after washing and shrinking, which facilitates the subsequent napping process.

[0073] The wicking effect on both sides of the double-faced wool fabric prepared in this embodiment is as follows: Figure 3 and Figure 4 As shown. By Figure 3 and Figure 4It can be seen that the napped fiber layer structure of this double-faced wool fabric is dense, smooth, and soft, with a delicate feel and a certain hollowness.

[0074] The slit effect and cross-section of the knitted double-faced fabric of the present invention are as follows: Figure 5 , Figure 6 As shown, by adjusting parameters such as the yarn length and weaving method of the connecting yarns, the hollowness, fluffiness, and thickness of the connecting layer can be controlled according to product requirements. This is in contrast to traditional woven double-faced fabric. Figures 7-9 The knitted double-faced fabric has better distinguishability of the connecting layers and is easier to slit; moreover, the cross-section after slit is smooth and flat, which is beneficial for subsequent edge sewing and other processes.

[0075] Example 2

[0076] This embodiment provides a one-piece molded lightweight elastic knitted double-faced wool fabric, which is prepared through the following steps:

[0077] The fabric is woven on an 18G double-sided weft-knitted circular knitting machine. Three types of yarn are used: yarn 1 is 100% wool (32S), yarn 2 is 50D / 12F DTY heavy-duty filament, and yarn 3 is 30D spandex filament. The finished fabric has a weight of 380 g / m². 2 The weaving process adopts a composite weaving method. The first and second patterns together form the surface layer. The first pattern uses yarn 1 and yarn 3 to weave a full loop. The second pattern uses yarn 2 to weave a tuck loop and a loop in sequence. The third and fourth patterns together form the connecting layer, using yarn 2 to weave complementary tuck loops. The fifth and sixth patterns together form the bottom layer. The fifth pattern uses yarn 2 to weave a tuck loop and a loop in sequence. The sixth pattern uses yarn 1 and yarn 3 to weave a full loop.

[0078] The woven greige fabric undergoes greige inspection, fabric repair, re-inspection, hemming, finishing, and final inspection to produce the finished double-faced wool fabric. The finishing process includes: washing, shrinking, twisting and drying, first steaming, raising the nap on the front and back sides, shearing the nap on the front and back sides, water squeezing, napping with burrs, rolling, drying, ironing, softening and shaping, and second steaming.

[0079] The washing process temperature is 45℃, the pH value of the rinsing solution is 7, and the time is 20 minutes.

[0080] The temperature for shrinking the fabric is 45℃, the pH value of the shrinking solution is 9, and the weaving speed is 18m / min.

[0081] The temperature for rotary drying is 80℃;

[0082] The temperature of the first steaming was 180℃, the speed was 15m / min, and the tension was 85N;

[0083] The speeds for front and back napping are 12m / min, and each side napping is performed 5 times.

[0084] The height of the front and back trimming is 2-3mm respectively, and the front trimming and back trimming are performed once each;

[0085] The drying temperature is 80℃;

[0086] The calendering temperature is 190℃, and the fabric speed is 15m / min;

[0087] The temperature for softening and shaping is 180℃, and the speed is 20m / min;

[0088] The temperature of the second steaming was 180℃, the speed was 15m / min, and the tension was 85N.

[0089] The double-faced wool fabric prepared in this embodiment was tested according to the test method for tensile elastic recovery rate of knitted fabrics (FZT 70006-2022), and the results are shown in Table 1.

[0090] Table 1

[0091]

[0092] The test results in Table 1 show that knitted double-faced wool fabric has good elasticity. In contrast, traditional woven double-faced wool fabric, due to its interlacing structure, has poor elasticity in both the warp and weft directions, resulting in greater limitations in its use.

[0093] Example 3

[0094] This embodiment provides a one-piece molded lightweight elastic knitted double-faced wool fabric, which is prepared through the following steps:

[0095] The fabric is woven on an 18G double-sided weft-knitted circular knitting machine using three types of yarn: yarn 1 is 20S 100% wool, yarn 2 is 80S cotton yarn, and yarn 3 is 60S heather yarn with 5% stainless steel fiber content. The finished fabric weighs 480g / m². 2 The weaving process adopts a composite weaving method. The first and second patterns together form the surface layer. The first pattern uses yarn 1 to weave all loops. The second pattern uses yarn 2 to weave tufted loops and loops in sequence. The third and fourth patterns together form the connecting layer, which uses yarn 3 to weave complementary tufted loops. The fifth and sixth patterns together form the bottom layer. The fifth pattern uses yarn 2 to weave tufted loops and loops. The sixth pattern uses yarn 1 to weave all loops.

[0096] The woven greige fabric undergoes greige inspection, fabric repair, re-inspection, hemming, finishing, and final inspection to produce the finished double-faced wool fabric. The finishing process includes: washing, shrinking, twisting and drying, first steaming, raising the nap on the front and back sides, shearing the nap on the front and back sides, water squeezing, napping with burrs, rolling, drying, ironing, softening and shaping, and second steaming.

[0097] The washing process temperature is 45℃, the pH value of the rinsing solution is 7, and the time is 20 minutes.

[0098] The temperature for shrinking the fabric is 45℃, the pH value of the shrinking solution is 9, and the weaving speed is 13m / min.

[0099] The temperature for rotary drying is 70℃;

[0100] The temperature of the first steaming was 170℃, the speed was 15m / min, and the tension was 80N;

[0101] The speeds for front and back napping are 12m / min, and each side napping is performed 5 times.

[0102] The height of the front and back trimming is 2-3mm respectively, and the front trimming and back trimming are performed once each;

[0103] The drying temperature is 80℃;

[0104] The temperature for heat treatment is 185℃, and the fabric speed is 18m / min;

[0105] The temperature for soft shaping is 190℃, and the speed is 22m / min;

[0106] The temperature of the second steaming was 170℃, the speed was 15m / min, and the tension was 80N.

[0107] The antistatic properties of the double-faced wool fabric prepared in this embodiment are improved, and the stainless steel gray yarn, as a connecting thread, is located in the middle layer of the fabric in a loop structure, which does not affect the appearance and feel of the fabric.

[0108] The resistance of a double-sided wool fabric measuring 2cm x 5cm was measured by clamping both ends with a digital multimeter. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0109] Table 2

[0110] sample Example 1 Example 3 Traditional woven double-faced wool resistance ≥220MΩ 40KΩ ≥220MΩ

[0111] As can be seen from the results shown in Table 2, Example 3 uses a small amount of stainless steel fiber blended yarn as the connecting yarn for knitted double-faced fabric, which can effectively improve the antistatic properties of the double-faced fabric.

Claims

1. A method for preparing a one-piece molded lightweight elastic knitted double-faced wool fabric, comprising the following steps: A greige fabric with at least three layers is obtained by knitting, wherein the three layers include a top layer, a bottom layer, and a connecting layer; the top layer and the bottom layer each have a jacquard structure with a raised loop effect, wherein the raised loop is yarn containing animal hair fibers; the connecting layer is formed by tuck knitting, wherein the tuck is located between the top layer and the bottom layer; The greige fabric is post-processed to obtain the double-faced wool fabric, wherein the post-processing includes washing, shrinking, first steaming, raising, shearing, ironing, setting, and second steaming.

2. The preparation method according to claim 1, wherein, The fabric is woven using a double-sided weft knitting circular knitting machine.

3. The preparation method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein, The knitting is performed according to the following method: Two types of yarn are used, and the weave is performed using a composite structure. The first and second motifs together form the top layer. The first motif is woven entirely into loops, and the second motif is woven into tucked loops and loops in sequence. The third and fourth motifs together form the connecting layer, which is a complementary tucked loop weave. The fifth and sixth motifs together form the bottom layer. The fifth motif is woven into tucked loops and loops, and the sixth motif is woven entirely into loops. The first yarn is used to weave the first, second, fifth, and sixth motifs, and the second yarn is used to weave the third and fourth motifs. or, Three types of yarn are used in a composite weave. The first and second dies together form the top layer. The first die is woven with the first and third yarns into full loops. The second die is woven with the second yarn into tufted loops and loops in sequence. The third and fourth dies together form the connecting layer. The second yarn is used to weave complementary tufted loops. The fifth and sixth dies together form the bottom layer. The fifth die is woven with the second yarn into tufted loops and loops. The sixth die is woven with the first and third yarns into full loops. or, Three types of yarn are used in a composite weave. The first and second motifs together form the top layer. The first motif is woven with the first yarn to form a full loop. The second motif is woven with the second yarn to form loops and tufts in sequence. The third and fourth motifs together form the connecting layer, which is woven with yarn 3 to form complementary loops. The fifth and sixth motifs together form the bottom layer. The fifth motif is woven with the second yarn to form loops and tufts. The sixth motif is woven with the first yarn to form a full loop.

4. The preparation method according to claim 1, wherein, The fabric has a five-layer structure, which includes a top layer, a sub-top layer, a connecting layer, a sub-bottom layer, and a bottom layer. The cluster is located between the subsurface layer and the subbottom layer.

5. The preparation method according to claim 1 or 4, wherein, The fineness of the yarns in the surface and bottom layers is 8S-50S, and they are single yarns or ply yarns.

6. The preparation method according to claim 1, wherein, The animal hair fibers mentioned include one or more of the following: wool, yak wool, and rabbit hair. Preferably, the wool includes superfine wool and / or cashmere, and the yak wool includes superfine yak wool.

7. The preparation method according to claim 1, 5, or 6, wherein, The yarn containing animal hair fibers also includes one or a combination of two synthetic fibers and / or natural fibers; Preferably, the synthetic fiber includes one or more of the following: acrylic fiber, microfiber acrylic fiber, polyester fiber, modified polyester fiber, sorona fiber, bicomponent polyester, PTT fiber, and PBT fiber. The natural fibers include cotton fibers and / or viscose fibers.

8. The preparation method according to claim 1, wherein, The connecting layer uses filaments or strands of fiber, and the breaking strength of the filaments or strands is higher than 250 cN. Preferably, the filament or ply yarn is a low F-number twisted yarn of filament or staple fiber; more preferably, the low F-number is 1-36F. Preferably, the connecting layer uses antistatic filaments or yarns. Preferably, the yarn used in the connecting layer is a core-spun yarn containing a low-melting-point component.

9. The preparation method according to claim 1, wherein, The finishing process includes washing, shrinking, first steaming, raising the nap on the front side, raising the nap on the back side, shearing the nap on the front side and shearing the nap on the back side, ironing, shaping, and second steaming. Preferably, The washing temperature is 45-50℃, the pH value of the rinsing solution is 6.5-9, and the washing time is 15-30 minutes. The temperature of the sizing solution is 35-40℃, the pH value of the sizing solution is 4-9, and the weaving speed is 12-20m / min. The temperatures of the first and second steaming processes are 165-180℃, the machine speeds are 12-18m / min, and the tensions are 70-100N. The speeds for front and back napping are 10-14 m / min, and front and back napping are performed 5-8 times each. The shearing height for the front and back sides is 2-3mm, and the front and back sides are sheared 1-2 times each. The temperature of the hot heat is 180-220℃, and the fabric speed is 15-20m / min; The shaping temperature is 135-165℃, and the vehicle speed is 20-30m / min.

10. A double-faced wool fabric, prepared by the preparation method according to any one of claims 1-9, preferably, the double-faced wool fabric has a basis weight of 300-700 g / m². 2 The weight of the double-faced wool fabric is 300-350 g / m². 2 .

11. A method for preparing a one-piece molded lightweight elastic knitted double-faced wool garment, wherein the garment is prepared using the double-faced wool fabric as described in claim 10, comprising the following steps: The process includes positioning, positioning seam, positioning interfacing, splicing, and prying seam, wherein the seam cutting process involves cutting open the loops in the connecting layer of the knitted double-faced wool fabric.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

  • Three-layer knitted composite fabric and production technology thereof

    CN106183119A

  • A warp-knitted imitation double-faced woolen fabric and its preparation method

    CN110747574B