Acne-removing essence oil containing amur corktree bark and white willow bark extracts and preparation method of acne-removing essence oil

Abstract

The invention discloses acne-removing essence oil containing amur corktree bark and white willow bark extracts and a preparation method of the acne-removing essence oil, and belongs to the technical field of skin care products. Aiming at the problems that traditional water-based and alcohol-based acne-removing products are insufficient in permeation and easy to stimulate sensitive skin, the formula takes amur corktree bark extract and white willow bark extract as cores, tricaprylic / capric glyceride, simmondsia chinensis seed oil and isopropyl myristate are compounded, and a bionic sebum liquid crystal structure is formed through a specific temperature co-dissolution process. According to the oil-based system, the skin-friendly characteristic of a natural oil phase is utilized, efficient dissolution and hair follicle targeted delivery of active ingredients are synchronously achieved, natural salicin precursors in the white willow barks and pore dredging are achieved, antibacterial alkaloids of the amur cork barks inhibit acne bacteria and relieve inflammation, and irritation of a single ingredient is reduced through synergism of the natural salicin precursors and the antibacterial alkaloids.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to the technical field of skin care, in particular to a kind of containing phellodendron bark acne-removing essence oil composition and preparation method thereof, the composition uses phellodendron extract and white willow bark extract as core active ingredient, produces significant synergistic effect, realizes mild and efficient acne-removing effect. BACKGROUND

[0002] The appearance of acne, comedones, blackheads, abscesses, acne and acne on the face is usually caused by the following reasons: excessive oil secretion. Excessive oil secretion of sebaceous glands leads to clogged pores, providing conditions for bacterial proliferation, and thus causing acne and comedones. Current mainstream acne-removing active ingredients such as retinol, benzoyl peroxide and synthetic salicylic acid, although effective, are often accompanied by side effects such as dry skin, irritation, desquamation, photosensitivity, etc., limiting their long-term use in sensitive skin populations. Therefore, there is an increasing demand for natural, mild and effective alternatives in the market.

[0003] Phellodendron amurense and Salix alba are both traditional medicinal plants with a long history of application. Phellodendron amurense bark extract is rich in isoquinoline alkaloids such as berberine, jatrorrhizine and palmatine, which have been proven to have broad-spectrum and strong antibacterial activity, and can significantly inhibit Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus, etc. acne-related pathogenic microorganisms. At the same time, phellodendron extract can inhibit the production and release of inflammatory mediators, exert excellent anti-inflammatory effect, and reduce the redness and pain of acne. The core active ingredient of white willow bark extract is salicin, which is mild and non-irritating, and can be slowly enzymatically converted into salicylic acid by the microbial flora on the skin surface. This conversion provides a sustained, low-concentration release of salicylic acid, which gently promotes keratin exfoliation and unblocks clogged hair follicles, effectively improving comedones and avoiding the irritation and dryness caused by direct use of high-concentration salicylic acid.

[0004] Although phellodendron and white willow bark extract have certain acne-removing potential when used alone, CN118986766A discloses a water-based complex system of phellodendron and white willow bark extract, but needs to add auxiliary ingredients such as asiaticoside to alleviate irritation, and the penetration rate of lipid-soluble active ingredients is less than 15%; CN107028797A uses jojoba oil for moisturizing in a water-soluble system, without involving active ingredient synergistic delivery; CN120392618A uses oil-in-water liposomes, which improves stability but has a complex preparation process and is prone to reduced efficacy due to oil-water separation, and none of them can fundamentally explore the internal synergistic mechanism between the two extracts. SUMMARY

[0005] The present application aims to provide a kind of acne-removing essence oil with P. sinensis and white willow bark extract as core active ingredients, fully stimulates the synergistic effect of P. sinensis and white willow bark extract on acne removal, and solves the key defects such as efficacy attenuation caused by uneven dispersion of lipid-soluble components in existing products, single active ingredient penetration path, difficulty in targeting deep hair follicles, and potential irritation caused by direct contact of plant components with sensitive skin.

[0006] To achieve the above-mentioned purpose, the present application adopts the following technical solutions:

[0007] An acne-removing essence oil based on P. sinensis and white willow bark extract includes the following mass fraction components: 1%-10% P. sinensis bark extract, 2%-15% white willow bark extract, 3%-8% isopropyl myristate, 0.01%-0.5% tocopheryl acetate, and the rest is a light oil mixture.

[0008] Among them, the light oil mixture is composed of tricaprylin and jojoba seed oil in a weight ratio of 1:1 to 5:1.

[0009] Preferably, the weight ratio of P. sinensis bark extract to white willow bark extract in the essence oil is 1:2.

[0010] Preferably, the essence oil includes the following mass fraction components: 3% P. sinensis bark extract, 6% white willow bark extract, 5% isopropyl myristate, 0.1% tocopheryl acetate, 42.9% tricaprylin, and 42.9% jojoba seed oil.

[0011] The preparation method of the above-mentioned acne-removing essence oil includes the following steps:

[0012] (1) Stir tricaprylin, jojoba seed oil and isopropyl myristate at 45°C to form a clear oil phase, and DSC detection shows liquid crystal phase transition;

[0013] (2) Add white willow bark extract at a reaction temperature of 25°C and stir at low speed for 20 minutes, and then add P. sinensis bark extract at a reaction temperature of 30°C and stir at medium speed for 40 minutes;

[0014] (3) After adding tocopheryl acetate, pass through a 0.45 μm ceramic membrane cross-flow filter to remove undispersed particles, and the turbidity of the final product is <5 NTU.

[0015] The present application has the following advantages:

[0016] (1) The light oil agent is selected as a functional matrix. The oil-based system not only perfectly matches the liposoluble characteristics of the two extracts, but also significantly improves the solubility of the components and the stability of the formula. The ternary oil phase composed of tricaprylin, jojoba seed oil and isopropyl myristate forms a liquid crystal structure similar to skin sebum through precise proportioning, which can promote the penetration of active ingredients into the sebaceous gland unit with excellent affinity, and at the same time, there is no dryness and tightness or oily acne feeling after using traditional acne-removing products.

[0017] (2) The specific light oil base used in the application not only serves as a solvent, but also as a functional synergistic medium. The molecular structure of jojoba seed oil is close to sebum, which promotes penetration, while the low viscosity of tricaprylin helps diffusion, significantly enhancing the combined inhibitory effect of the extracts from the bark of P. fortunei and the bark of W. japonica on P. acnes. In addition, isopropyl myristate as a penetration enhancer not only helps the components penetrate, but also may adjust the structure of the oil base to form a liquid crystal-like arrangement, enhancing stability and permeability.

[0018] (3) The use of natural plant active ingredients greatly reduces the irritation of the product. In addition, the precursor form of natural salicylate + the anti-inflammatory properties of P. fortunei make the product suitable for various skin types, including sensitive skin.

[0019] (4) The two core active ingredients are not simply added together. Through the ingenious combination and pre-solubilization process, the overall efficacy is achieved, avoiding the compatibility problems and unpredictable irritation reactions that may be caused by complex formulations. At the same time, it produces a synergistic effect of penetration enhancement, complementary efficacy, and improved mildness, and the overall efficacy is better than using either component alone or simply physically mixing the two. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0020] The technical solutions of the present application will be described below in conjunction with the embodiments of the present application. Obviously, the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present application, not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments in the present application, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative labor fall within the scope of the present application.

[0021] Example 1

[0022] A P. fortunei and W. japonica bark extract-based acne-removing serum oil includes the following mass fraction components: 3% P. fortunei bark extract, 6% W. japonica bark extract, 5% isopropyl myristate, 0.1% tocopheryl acetate, 45.45% tricaprylin, and 45.45% jojoba seed oil.

[0023] The preparation method of the above-mentioned acne-removing serum oil includes the following steps:

[0024] (1) The tricaprylyl-tricapric acid glyceride, jojoba seed oil, isopropyl myristate were stirred at 45°C to form a clear oil phase, and DSC detection showed a liquid crystal phase transition;

[0025] (2) The white willow bark extract was added at a reaction temperature of 25°C and stirred at low speed for 20 min, and the phellodendron bark extract was added at a reaction temperature of 30°C and stirred at medium speed for 40 min;

[0026] (3) After adding the tocopheryl acetate, cross-flow filtration was performed through a 0.45 μm ceramic membrane to remove undispersed particles, and the turbidity of the final product was <5 NTU.

[0027] Comparative Example 1

[0028] The only difference compared with Example 1 is that only the phellodendron extract is added, without the white willow bark extract, and the amount of the phellodendron extract is replaced with an equal amount of jojoba seed oil, and the other conditions are the same as in Example 1.

[0029] Comparative Example 2

[0030] The only difference compared with Example 1 is that only the white willow bark extract is added, without the phellodendron bark extract, and the amount of the white willow bark extract is replaced with an equal amount of tricaprylyl-tricapric acid glyceride, and the other conditions are the same as in Example 1.

[0031] Comparative Example 3

[0032] The difference compared with Example 1 is that the phellodendron extract and the white willow bark extract in Example 1 are separately prepared into concentrated solutions with a mixture of tricaprylyl-tricapric acid glyceride and jojoba seed oil, and the active ingredients are not pre-processed for co-dissolution, but are mixed in proportion immediately before use.

[0033] Comparative Example 4

[0034] The only difference compared with Example 1 is that isopropyl myristate is not added, and the amount of isopropyl myristate is replaced with an equal amount of tricaprylyl-tricapric acid glyceride, and the other conditions are the same as in Example 1.

[0035] Experiment 1 In vitro synergistic antibacterial experiment

[0036] To quantitatively evaluate whether the combination of phellodendron and white willow bark extracts in the oil-based system produces a synergistic effect on the antibacterial activity against Propionibacterium acnes, the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) was determined by the micro-broth dilution method, and the fractional inhibitory concentration index (FICI) was calculated. The specific test steps are as follows: each sample in the experimental group was dissolved with sterile DMSO and diluted to 10 times the highest test concentration, then serially diluted with RCM broth, and the prepared bacterial suspension (0.5 McFarland turbidity, about 1.5 × 10 8 CFU / mL) was diluted to a final concentration of about 5 × 10 5CFU / mL, and added to 96-well plates. The inoculated 96-well plates were incubated in an anaerobic environment at 37°C for 48-72 hours, and the lowest drug concentration corresponding to the wells without turbidity was determined as the MIC, and the FICI was calculated.

[0037] The experimental results are shown in Table 1. The FICI index of the combination of Example 1 of the present application is 0.375, which is less than 0.5, indicating that the pre-mixing of white bark of Berberis and white willow bark extract in the specific oil base produces a strong synergistic antibacterial effect on P. acnes. The MIC value is much lower than that when each component is used alone, and is also significantly lower than that of the physical mixing group, proving that the pre-solubilization treatment in the oil base environment is the key to producing synergistic effect, rather than simple component superposition.

[0038] Table 1

[0039] MIC of P. quinquefolius extract MIC of P. tremula extract FICI Example 1 15.63 125 0.375 Comparative Example 1 62.5 — — Comparative Example 2 — 500 — Comparative Example 3 31.25 250 1.0 Comparative Example 4 18.13 120 0.42

[0040] Experiment 2 Human efficacy evaluation experiment

[0041] In order to evaluate the improvement effect of the essential oil of the present application on mild to moderate acne under real use conditions, skin tolerance and safety. The specific evaluation steps are as follows: exclude people in pregnancy, lactation period, severe acne, recent use of retinoids or antibiotics, recruit 120 mild to moderate acne patients aged 18-35 years (half male and half female), randomly divided into 5 groups, 24 people in each group. Volunteers take 2 drops of corresponding products after cleansing in the morning and evening, and can strengthen the key areas, continue to use for 8 weeks. At the same time, a commercially available salicylic acid product is used for comparative evaluation. During this period, no other acne-removing products are used. At 0 weeks, 4 weeks and 8 weeks, a professional dermatologist who does not know the grouping situation carries out evaluation. The number of inflammatory lesions (papules, pustules) and non-inflammatory lesions (blackheads, whiteheads) on the face is counted by the naked eye as the lesion count result. Using Chromameter® CR-400 color difference meter, the a* value of the fixed area on both cheeks is measured, and the average value is taken to evaluate the erythema index of the volunteers' skin. Using Tewameter® TM 300 probe, the trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) value (g / h·m²) of the cheek is measured in a constant temperature and humidity environment (22±1℃, 50±5% RH), to evaluate the skin barrier integrity, and the number of people who have experienced stinging, itching, burning, desquamation and other adverse reactions during the entire test period is recorded.

[0042] The experimental results are shown in Table 2. After 8 weeks, the Example 1 group showed the best effect on all core efficacy indicators, with a significantly higher reduction rate of inflammatory and non-inflammatory skin lesions and the largest degree of erythema subsidence than all the comparative groups and the commercial group, proving its comprehensive and efficient acne-removing ability. Among them, the Example 1 group had the lowest and most stable TEWL value, indicating that it can effectively maintain or even enhance the skin barrier function. No one reported any adverse reactions during the entire test period, and the tolerability was excellent. In contrast, the commercial salicylic acid product had some effect, but caused significant barrier function damage and a higher adverse reaction rate, proving the absolute advantage of the oil-based system in mildness. The single-component effect of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was limited, while the effect of Comparative Example 3 was better than that of the single-component groups, but still significantly lower than that of the Example 1 group, confirming that the two core active ingredients are not simply additive, and that the pre-solubilization of the active ingredients in the oil base is crucial for the synergistic effect.

[0043] Table 2

[0044] Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Commercially available control group Inflammatory lesion reduction rate (%) 85.2±5.1 65.1±7.3 58.7±8.2 72.4±6.5 82.3±5.0 78.9±6.0 Non-inflammatory lesion reduction rate (%) 78.5±6.8 50.2±9.1 70.3±7.5 65.8±8.2 76.8±6.2 68.4±7.7 Erythema index -4.5±0.6 -2.8±0.8 -1.5±0.7 -3.2±0.7 -4.1±0.5 -3.0±0.9 TEWL value (g / h·m²) 12.1±1.2 14.5±1.5 13.0±1.3 13.8±1.4 12.8±1.2 17.8±2.1 Number of people who experienced adverse reactions 0 2 3 1 0 7

[0045] The above is a further detailed description of the present application, which should not be considered as a limitation on the specific implementation of the present application.

[0046] For those skilled in the art to which the present application belongs, simple deductions or substitutions without departing from the concept of the present application are within the protection scope of the present application.

Claims

1. A pimple-removing essential oil containing extracts of P. henryi and white willow bark, characterized in that, By total mass percentage, it comprises the following components: 1%-10% of B.papyrifera bark extract, 2%-15% of Salix babylonica bark extract, 3%-8% of isopropyl myristate, 0.01%-0.5% of tocopherol acetate, and the rest is a light oil mixture of tricaprylin and tricaprin.

2. The acne serum of claim 1, wherein, The weight ratio of the B.papyrifera bark extract to the Salix babylonica bark extract is 1:

2.

3. The acne serum of claim 1, wherein, By total mass percentage, it comprises the following components: 3% of B.papyrifera bark extract, 6% of Salix babylonica bark extract, 5% of isopropyl myristate, 0.1% of tocopherol acetate, 42.9% of tricaprylin and tricaprin, and 42.9% of jojoba seed oil.

4. The method for preparing the acne-removing essential oil according to claim 1, characterized in that, It comprises the following steps: (1) Stir the tricaprylin and tricaprin, jojoba seed oil, and isopropyl myristate at 45℃ to form a clear oil phase, and the DSC detection shows a liquid crystal phase transition; (2) Add the Salix babylonica bark extract at a reaction temperature of 25℃ and stir at low speed for 20min, and then add the B.papyrifera bark extract at a reaction temperature of 30℃ and stir at medium speed for 40min; (3) After adding the tocopherol acetate, perform cross-flow filtration through a 0.45μm ceramic membrane to remove undispersed particles, and the turbidity of the final product is <5NTU.

5. Use of the acne-removing essential oil according to any one of claims 1-4 in the preparation of a cosmetic or skin care preparation for preventing, treating, or improving acne.