Process for treating keratin fibres with composition comprising at least two different specific fatty acids and at least one modified polysaccharide
By treating hair with a composition of specific fatty acids and modified polysaccharides, the problems of hair volume control in humid environments and the environmental impact of silicone materials are solved, improving hair smoothness and manageability, and achieving environmentally friendly hair care results.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202480042635.X
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-06-30
- Filing Date
- 2024-06-25
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-23
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair treatments are difficult to control in volume and maintain hairstyles in humid environments, and contain silicone materials that are environmentally unfriendly and affect hair smoothness and manageability.
Keratin fibers are treated with a composition containing at least two different specific fatty acids and modified polysaccharides. By applying this composition, the softness, detangling, smoothness and luster of the fibers are improved, and crimp formation is limited in humid environments.
It effectively controls hair volume and shape in humid environments, enhances hair smoothness and manageability, and avoids the use of silicone materials, achieving environmentally friendly hair care results.
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Abstract
Description
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibres using a composition comprising at least two different specific fatty acids and at least one modified polysaccharide. BACKGROUND
[0002] Hair is damaged and weakened by external atmospheric agents such as pollution and bad weather and also by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving, relaxing and repeated washing. As a result, the hair becomes damaged and, in the long term, can become dry, rough, brittle, dull, split and / or limp or sensitive to humidity, making it unmanageable, often frizzy and / or difficult to style in a humid environment, in particular in a very humid environment.
[0003] Thus, in order to overcome these drawbacks, it is usual practice to resort to hair treatments which use compositions intended to properly condition the hair by imparting satisfactory cosmetic properties to the hair, in particular a sense of suppleness (the hair is no longer rough), good disentangling properties (thus easy to comb) and good manageability of the hair (thus easy to style).
[0004] However, these hair treatments, generally based on silicone-based starting materials, can impart to the hair a greasy, heavy feel which is not always pleasant for the user. Furthermore, these hair treatments have little effect on controlling the volume of the keratin fibres and / or maintaining the hairstyle and / or the order of the hair in a humid or very humid environment.
[0005] In addition, the formulation of cosmetic products that are environmentally friendly, i.e. products whose design and development take into account environmental problems, is becoming an important issue in helping to meet global challenges. It therefore proves necessary to propose more sustainable compositions, thus making it possible in particular to respond to these environmental challenges by reducing the use of compounds of petroleum chemical origin.
[0006] Thus, there is a real need to develop a hair treatment process which can remedy these drawbacks and which makes it possible in particular to preserve or even improve the quality of the fibres, in particular the suppleness, the disentangling, the smoothness, the order and / or the shine, and to limit the formation of frizz and / or the increase in volume of the whole head of hair in a humid environment, in order to facilitate the styling of the hair in a humid environment. Ideally, such a process must not use any silicone starting materials.
[0007] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that all or some of these objectives can be achieved by the process according to the invention. SUMMARY
[0008] According to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is a process for treating keratin fibers, comprising a step i) of applying to the keratin fibers a composition (C) comprising:
[0009] • at least two different compounds D independently selected from the following formula (I), salts thereof, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof:
[0010]
[0011] In formula (I):
[0012] ■ R 1 represents:
[0013] - a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, said hydrocarbon-based group being optionally substituted with one or more groups identical or different selected from a hydroxyl group (-OH), an amino group (-NH2), a carboxyl group (-COOH), a (hetero)cyclic ring such as a phenyl group, and / or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -CO-, -NR a - or a combination thereof such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NR a -(CO)- or -(CO)-NR a ; or
[0014] - a (hetero)cyclic group such as a phenyl group, which is optionally substituted with one or more groups identical or different selected from a hydroxyl group (-OH) or R b -(CO)-;
[0015] ■ R a represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted with one or more groups identical or different selected from a hydroxyl group (-OH), an amino group (-NH2) or a carboxyl group (-COOH);
[0016] ■ R b represents a (C2-C 10 )alkyl group; and
[0017] • one or more compounds E selected from modified polysaccharides.
[0018] According to a second aspect, the subject of the present invention is a composition (C) as previously described.
[0019] According to a third aspect, a subject of the present application is the use of a composition (C) as previously described for caring for keratin fibres, preferably for giving a sense of suppleness and / or a sense of smoothness and / or shine to the keratin fibres, more preferentially for giving a sense of suppleness and / or a sense of smoothness to them.
[0020] According to a fourth aspect, a subject of the present application is the use of a composition (C) as previously described for protecting keratin fibres against moisture, preferably for limiting the formation of curls and / or the increase in volume of a head of hair in a humid environment. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0021] For the purposes of the present application and unless otherwise specified:
[0022] ■ the term "keratin fibre" means a fibre of human or animal origin, such as the hair, the body hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the wool, the Angora goat hair, the cashmere or the pelt. According to the present application, the keratin fibre is preferably a human keratin fibre, more preferentially the hair.
[0023] ■ the term "alkyl" means a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl or icosyl radical.
[0024] ■ the term "(C x -C y )alkyl" means an alkyl comprising from x to y carbon atoms.
[0025] ■ the term "hydroxy(C x -C y )alkyl" means a (C x -C y )alkyl in which at least one of the hydrogen atoms is optionally replaced with a hydroxyl group (-OH). Thus, (hydroxy)(C x -C y )alkyl denotes a (C x -C y )alkyl or a hydroxy(C x -C y )alkyl, i.e. a (C x -C y )alkyl in which at least one of the hydrogen atoms is replaced with a hydroxyl group (-OH).
[0026] ■ the term "di(hydroxy)(C x -C y )alkylammonium salt" means a salt of a di(hydroxy)(C x -C y)alkyl groups are identical or different. x -C y )alkyl groups are identical or different.
[0027] ■ The term "tri(hydroxy)(C x -C y )alkylammonium salt" means an ammonium salt bearing three (hydroxy)(C x -C y )alkyl groups, which (hydroxy)(C x -C y )alkyl groups are identical or different.
[0028] ■ The term "tetra(hydroxy)(C x -C y )alkylammonium salt" means an ammonium salt bearing four (hydroxy)(C x -C y )alkyl groups, which (hydroxy)(C x -C y )alkyl groups are identical or different.
[0029] ■ The term "(hetero)cyclyl" means a cyclic or heterocyclic group.
[0030] ■ The term "cyclic group" means a monocyclic or fused or non-fused, saturated or unsaturated, in particular aromatic, polycyclic carbocycle comprising 6 to 22 carbon atoms, which cyclic group can be substituted by one or more identical or different groups, in particular selected from (Ci-C6)alkyl, (Ci-C6)alkoxy, (Ci-C6)(poly)hydroxyalkyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or carboxyl (-COOH).
[0031] ■ The term "heterocyclic group" means a monocyclic or fused or non-fused, saturated or unsaturated, in particular aromatic, polycyclic group comprising 5 to 22 members and containing 1 to 3 heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur atoms, which heterocyclic group can be substituted by one or more identical or different groups, in particular selected from (Ci-C6)alkyl, (Ci-C6)alkoxy, (Ci-C6)(poly)hydroxyalkyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or carboxyl (-COOH).
[0032] ■ The term "unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group" means a hydrocarbon-based group comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated olefinic double bonds.
[0033] ■ The term "polysaccharide" means a polysaccharoside, which is a polymer composed of several saccharides bonded together via O-glycosidic linkages, said polymer being composed of monosaccharide units (also called monosaccharosides) comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6; in particular, the monosaccharoside units are linked together via 1,4 or 1,6 bonds as alpha (a) or beta (b) anomeric isomers, each saccharoside unit can have L or D configuration, and also salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates of said monosaccharides; more particularly, they are polymers formed from a number of saccharides (or monosaccharides) of general formula: -[C x (H2O) y )] w - or -[(CH2O) x ] w - wherein x is an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x ranges from 5 to 7, preferably x = 6, and y is an integer representing x-1, and w is an integer greater than or equal to 2, in particular ranging from 3 to 3000, more particularly ranging from 5 to 2500, preferably ranging from 10 to 2300, in particular ranging from 15 to 1000, more particularly ranging from 20 to 500, preferably ranging from 25 to 200;
[0034] ■ The term "aminopolysaccharide" means a polysaccharide substituted with one or more amine groups NR a R b , i.e. at least one of the hydroxyl groups of at least one saccharide unit of the polysaccharide is replaced by a group NR a R b , wherein R a and R b , which can be identical or different, represent i) a hydrogen atom, ii) a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, iii) an aryl group such as a phenyl group, iv) an aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group such as a benzyl group, v) -C(Y)-(Y') f -R'1, wherein Y and Y', which can be identical or different, represent an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or N(R'2), preferably oxygen, f = 0 or 1, preferably 0; and R'1 and R'2 represent i) to iv) of R a and R b as previously defined, and in particular R'1 represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl group such as a methyl group. Preferably, R a and / or R b represent a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C4)alkylcarbonyl group such as an acetyl group, and more preferably, R a represents a hydrogen atom and R b represents a (Ci-C4)alkylcarbonyl group such as an acetyl group.
[0035] ■ The term "modified polysaccharide" means an amine-based or non-amine-based polysaccharide which is chemically modified, in particular on at least one of the hydroxyl and / or amine groups, and / or physically modified. The polysaccharide can be chemically modified, for example by substitution and / or addition (such as etherification, esterification or amidation), oxidation, hydrolysis, dehydration and / or reduction. The polysaccharide can be physically modified, for example under the action of heat.
[0036] ■ The term "isomer" means an optical, geometric or tautomeric isomer.
[0037] The terms "at least one" and "one or more" are synonymous and can be used interchangeably.
[0038] Process for treating keratin fibres
[0039] According to a first aspect, the subject of the present application is a process for treating keratin fibres as described previously.
[0040] The Applicant has surprisingly found that the process according to the application makes it possible to maintain or even improve the quality of the fibres, in particular the softness, the disentangling, the smoothness and / or the order and / or the shine, and to limit the curl formation and / or the volume increase of the hair mass in a humid environment, thus making it easier to style the hair in a humid environment.
[0041] Different compounds D
[0042] The composition (C) comprises at least two different compounds D independently selected from the compounds of formula (I) as defined previously, salts thereof, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.
[0043] Preferably, the salts of the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from the monovalent salts of the compounds of formula (I).
[0044] More preferentially, the salts of the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from the salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, ammonium salts and tetra(Ci-C 10 )alkylammonium salts, di(Ci-C 10 )alkylammonium salts, tri(Ci-C 10 )alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, preferentially from the salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, tetra(Ci-C 10 )alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0045] According to a preferred embodiment, R 1represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, which hydrocarbon-based group is optionally substituted with one or more groups, identical or different, chosen from a hydroxyl group (-OH), an amino group (-NH2), a carboxyl group (-COOH), a (hetero)cyclic ring such as a phenyl group, and / or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -CO-, -NR a - or a combination thereof such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NR a -(CO)- or -(CO)-NR a - a non-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferentially a non-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0046] According to one embodiment, the composition (C) does not comprise any salt of the compound of formula (I) as defined previously.
[0047] According to a preferred embodiment, at least one, preferably all, of the different compounds D is in non-salified form.
[0048] According to a preferred embodiment, at least two of the different compounds D is in non-salified form, and the molar ratio of the total amount of one of the different compounds D in non-salified form to the total amount of another of the different compounds D in non-salified form in the composition (C) ranges from 0.25 to 4. In case the composition (C) comprises more than two different compounds D in non-salified form, the molar ratio between two of these different compounds D varies from 0.25 to 4 for meeting this criterion.
[0049] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises no more than two different compounds D, which two different compounds D are in non-salified form, and the molar ratio of the total amount of one of the different compounds D in non-salified form to the total amount of the other different compound D in non-salified form in the composition (C) ranges from 0.25 to 4.
[0050] According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the different compounds D is in non-salified form and at least one of the different compounds D is in salified form, and the molar ratio of the total amount of one of the different compounds D in non-salified form to the total amount of one of the different compounds D in salified form in the composition (C) is greater than or equal to 1 and preferably ranges from 1 to 100. In the case where the composition (C) comprises more than two different compounds D in non-salified form and / or more than two different compounds D in salified form, the molar ratio of the total amount of one of the different compounds D in non-salified form to the total amount of one of the different compounds D in salified form is sufficiently greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranges from 1 to 100, for this criterion to be met.
[0051] According to a more particular embodiment, the composition (C) comprises no more than two different compounds D, one of which is in non-salified form and the other of which is in salified form, and the molar ratio of the total amount of the different compound D in non-salified form to the total amount of the different compound D in salified form in the composition (C) is greater than or equal to 1 and preferably ranges from 1 to 100.
[0052] The composition (C) preferably comprises no more than five different compounds D, more preferentially no more than four different compounds D, even more preferentially no more than three different compounds D, and better still no more than two different compounds D, these compounds being independently chosen from the compounds of formula (I) as defined previously, the salts thereof, the isomers thereof, the solvates thereof such as hydrates, and the mixtures thereof.
[0053] According to a preferred embodiment, the different compounds D are chosen from the following compounds 1 to 39, the salts thereof, the isomers thereof, the solvates thereof such as hydrates, and the mixtures thereof:
[0054]
[0055]
[0056]
[0057]
[0058]
[0059]
[0060]
[0061]
[0062] According to a more preferred embodiment, different compounds D are selected from compounds 1 to 20, 22, 25, 26, 28, 31, 32, 36 or 39, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.
[0063] According to even more preferred embodiments, different compounds D are selected from compounds 1, 4, 16 to 17, their salts, their isomers, and their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from compounds 4, 16 or 17, their isomers, and their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.
[0064] According to preferred variants, different compounds D are selected from compounds 1 to 39, their isomers, their solvates such as their hydrates, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from compounds 1 to 20, 22, 25, 26, 28, 31, 32, 36 or 39, their isomers, their solvates such as their hydrates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from compounds 1, 4, 16 or 17, their isomers, their solvates such as their hydrates, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably selected from compounds 4, 16 or 17, their isomers, their solvates such as their hydrates, and mixtures thereof.
[0065] When one or more of the different compounds D are in salted form, they are preferably selected from the following compounds 1' to 11', their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof:
[0066]
[0067]
[0068]
[0069] Where X + Preferably, it represents a monovalent cation, more preferably derived from salts selected from alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, ammonium salts, tetra(hydroxy) (C1-C1) salts, or tetra(hydroxy) salts. 10 Alkyl ammonium salts, di(hydroxy) (C1-C) 10 Alkyl ammonium salts, tri(hydroxy)(C1-C) 10 ) Monovalent cations of alkylammonium salts and mixtures thereof, even more preferably derived from salts selected from alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, tetra(hydroxy) (C1-C) 10 ) Monovalent cations of alkylammonium salts and their mixtures.
[0070] When one or more of the different compounds D are in a salted form, they are more preferably selected from compounds 1' to 11', their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, wherein X + This indicates a monovalent cation derived from the following salts, selected from salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, ammonium salts, and tetravalent (Cl-C) cations.10 ) alkylammonium salts, di(Ci-C 10 ) alkylammonium salts, tri(Ci-C 10 ) alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, tetra(Ci-C 10 ) alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0071] When one or more of the different compounds D are in saltified form, they are even more preferably selected from compounds 1’ to 11’, isomers thereof, solvates such as hydrates thereof, and mixtures thereof, wherein X + represents Na + , K + , NH4 + or a tetra(Ci-C 10 ) alkylammonium ion.
[0072] When one or more of the different compounds D are in saltified form, they are more preferably selected from the following compounds 1’’ to 13’’, isomers thereof, solvates such as hydrates thereof, and mixtures thereof:
[0073]
[0074]
[0075]
[0076] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, when one or more of the different compounds D are in saltified form, they are selected from compounds 5’’, 6’’, isomers thereof, solvates such as hydrates thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0077] Preferably, the composition (C) comprises a total content of different compounds D of at least 0.01 % by weight, preferably at least 0.05 % by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.1 % to 99.9 % by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 1 % to 95 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).
[0078] According to a preferred embodiment, the different compounds D are selected from the combination of the following compounds:
[0079] - the combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid in the composition (C) preferably being equal to 3 / 1 ;
[0080] - the combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid in the composition (C) preferably being equal to 2 / 1 ;
[0081] - a combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in the composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1 ;
[0082] - a combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in the composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1 ;
[0083] - a combination of capric acid and sodium laurate, the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of sodium laurate in the composition (C) preferably being equal to 4 / 1.
[0084] According to a more preferred embodiment, the different compound D is chosen from the combination of the following compounds:
[0085] - a combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in the composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1 ;
[0086] - a combination of capric acid and sodium laurate, the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of sodium laurate in the composition (C) preferably being equal to 4 / 1.
[0087] - a combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in the composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1 ;
[0088] - a combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in the composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1.
[0089] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the different compound D is chosen from the combination of the following compounds:
[0090] - a combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in the composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1 ;
[0091] - a combination of capric acid and sodium laurate, the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of sodium laurate in the composition (C) preferably being equal to 4 / 1.
[0092] - a combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in the composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1.
[0093] When the composition (C) comprises one of the combinations of two compounds previously described, the total content of the combination present in the composition (C) is preferably at least 0.01% by weight, more preferentially at least 0.05% by weight, even more preferentially between 0.1 and 99.9% by weight, most preferentially between 1 and 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).
[0094] Compound E
[0095] The composition (C) also comprises one or more compounds E chosen from modified polysaccharides.
[0096] The modified polysaccharides can be cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric, preferably nonionic or anionic, more preferably nonionic.
[0097] Preferably, the compound E is derived from a polysaccharide chosen from:
[0098] - gum arabic (branched polysaccharide of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
[0099] - quince seed gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);
[0100] - gum karaya (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
[0101] - gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);
[0102] - agar-agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);
[0103] - alginate (polymer of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid);
[0104] - carrageenan and furcellaran (polymer of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate);
[0105] - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
[0106] - locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
[0107] - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
[0108] - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);
[0109] - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);
[0110] - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid) or dehydroxanthan gum;
[0111] - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
[0112] - scleroglucan gum (polymer of glucose);
[0113] - cellulose (glucose polymer);
[0114] - starch (glucose polymer);
[0115] - inulin;
[0116] - pectin;
[0117] - pullulan;
[0118] - chitin;
[0119] - chitosan;
[0120] - hyaluronic acid; and
[0121] - mixtures thereof.
[0122] More preferably, compound E is derived from a polysaccharide selected from starch, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.
[0123] According to a preferred embodiment, compound E is selected from modified non- amine-based polysaccharides.
[0124] The starch molecules that can be used to manufacture the modified starches according to the application can have as plant origin cereals or also tubers. Thus, the starch is selected from, for example, corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, pea starch, and mixtures thereof, preferably from potato starch.
[0125] Polysaccharide ethers
[0126] According to a particular embodiment, compound E is selected from polysaccharide ethers.
[0127] The term "polysaccharide ether" means an alkyl polysaccharide whose alkyl groups comprise from 1 to 30, preferably from 2 to 10, more preferably from 2 to 6, carbon atoms.
[0128] Preferably, the alkyl polysaccharides according to the application are derived from cellulose, pullulan, or guar gum, or mixtures thereof.
[0129] According to a particular embodiment, compound E is selected from alkyl celluloses whose linear or branched alkyl groups comprise from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 15 carbon atoms.
[0130] Alkyl celluloses are cellulose alkyl ethers comprising a chain composed of β- anhydroglucose units bonded together via acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit contains three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of which can react according to the following reaction:
[0131] Cell-OM + R-Hal Cell-OR + MHal
[0132] wherein Hal represents a halogen such as CI, M represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal Na or K, or an alkaline earth metal, preferably an alkali metal such as Na, Cell represents a polysaccharide group such as cellulose, R represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms, such as a methyl or ethyl group, and MHal represents the resulting salt such as sodium chloride.
[0133] Advantageously, compound E is chosen from ethyl cellulose, propyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof, preferably ethyl cellulose.
[0134] According to another particular embodiment, compound E is chosen from alkyl guar gums, i.e. guar gums modified by substitution of the hydroxyl hydrogen with a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 3 carbon atoms such as 2 carbon atoms.
[0135] Advantageously, compound E is ethyl guar gum. Ethyl guar gum is known in particular under the INCI name C1-C5 alkyl galactomannan.
[0136] Polysaccharide ester
[0137] According to a preferred embodiment, compound E is chosen from polysaccharide esters.
[0138] The term "polysaccharide ester" means an ester obtained by reaction between at least one hydroxyl group of a polysaccharide such as dextrin or pullulan and at least one carboxylic acid or one of its activated forms such as an acid chloride. Preferably, the carboxylic acid is saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched and comprises from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and its activated form is for example the corresponding acid chloride.
[0139] According to a particular embodiment, compound E is chosen from esters of cellulose or of a derivative thereof such as hydroxy(C1-C5)alkyl cellulose, starch, inulin, pectin, pullulan or hyaluronic acid, these esters comprising at least one linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl group. 30 hydrocarbon chains such as saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups, arylalkyl groups, alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof.
[0140] According to a particular embodiment, compound E is chosen from polysaccharide monoalkyl or polyalkyl esters.
[0141] Among the polysaccharide monoalkyl or polyalkyl esters suitable for use in the application, mention can be made of dextrin or inulin monoalkyl or polyalkyl esters.
[0142] It can in particular be a monoester or a polyester of dextrin, which dextrin is derived from starch, with at least one fatty acid such as R-C(O)-OH and corresponds in particular to the following formula (III):
[0143]
[0144] in formula (III):
[0145] - n is an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably ranging from 3 to 200, especially ranging from 20 to 150, and in particular ranging from 25 to 50,
[0146] - R1, R2and R3, which can be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and acyl groups (R-C(O)-), in which the radical R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 7 to 29 carbon atoms, in particular from 7 to 21 carbon atoms, especially from 11 to 19 carbon atoms, more particularly from 13 to 17 carbon atoms or even 15 carbon atoms, it being understood that at least one of the radicals R1, R2or R3is other than hydrogen.
[0147] In particular, R1, R2and R3represent a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (R-C(O)-), in which R is a hydrocarbon-based radical as defined previously, with the proviso that at least two of the radicals R1, R2or R3are other than hydrogen.
[0148] All of the radicals R1, R2and R3may represent identical or different acyl groups (R-C(O)) and the acyl groups are especially identical.
[0149] When the radicals R1, R2and / or R3, which can be identical or different, represent acyl groups (R-C(O)), they are derived from a fatty carboxylic acid R-C(O)OH, which is preferably chosen from octanoic acid, decanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, isobutyric acid, isovaleric acid, 2-ethylbutyric acid, ethylmethylacetic acid, isoheptylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isononylic acid, isodecanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid, isomyristic acid, isopalm itic acid, isostearic acid, isarachidic acid, isocaproic acid, decenoic acid, dodecenoic acid, tetradecenoic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, asclepinic acid, gondoleic acid, eicosenoic acid, sorbic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, punicic acid, stearidonic acid, arachidonic acid and stearolic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0150] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound E is chosen from esters of dextrin with saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 12 - C 24 fatty acids.
[0151] Preferably, the compound E is chosen from esters of dextrin with saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 14 - C 24 fatty acids, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid or mixtures thereof.
[0152] According to one embodiment, the dextrin ester is selected from dextrin palmitate esters, such as Rheopearl KL2 and Rheopearl TL2 sold by the Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd., dextrin myristate esters, such as the product sold by the Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd. under the reference Rheopearl MKL2, dextrin palmitate / ethylhexanoate esters sold under the reference Rheopearl TT2, dextrin palmitate / hexyldecanoate esters sold under the reference Rheopearl WX, or mixtures thereof.
[0153] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound E is selected from dextrin palmitate esters.
[0154] According to one embodiment, the compound E is selected from inulin esters, more particularly from inulin esters with saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 12 -C 24 esters of fatty acids, preferably selected from inulin esters with saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 14 -C 24 esters of fatty acids, preferably selected from inulin esters with saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C
[0155] According to one embodiment, the inulin ester is selected from stearoyl inulin, such as Rheopearl ISK2 and Rheopearl ISL2 sold by the Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd., or mixtures thereof.
[0156] According to one embodiment, the compound E is selected from cellulose esters, more particularly from cellulose esters with saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2-C 24 , preferably C2-C 10 , more preferably C2-C6, even more preferably C2-C4 acids, such as acetic acid, butyric acid or mixtures thereof.
[0157] According to one embodiment, the cellulose ester is cellulose acetate butyrate, such as Eastman Cellulose Acetate Butyrate sold by Eastman Chemical.
[0158] According to one embodiment, the compound E is selected from pullulan esters, more particularly from pullulan esters with saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2-C 30 , preferably C2-C 20 , more preferably C 12 -C 20 , even more preferably C 12 -C 18 esters of acids, such as C 14 esters.
[0159] According to a preferred embodiment, compound E is chosen from myristoyl pullulan.
[0160] According to another embodiment, compound E is cationic.
[0161] When compound E is cationic, they are preferably derived from a polymer chosen from guar gum, locust bean gum, starch, cellulose, and mixtures thereof.
[0162] The cationic group can be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type, preferably quaternary amine, and comprises a C6-C 30 aliphatic chain.
[0163] According to a particular embodiment, compound E is chosen from quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with a group comprising at least one aliphatic chain (or fatty chain), such as an alkyl group comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, an arylalkyl group, an alkylaryl group, or mixtures thereof.
[0164] The alkyl group borne by the quaternized cellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose preferably comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl group preferably designates a phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl group. The quaternized alkyl hydroxyethylcelluloses containing a C8-C 30 fatty chain include the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-B (C 12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C 18 alkyl) sold by the company Dow Corning, the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C 12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C 18 alkyl) sold by the company Croda, and the product Softcat SL 100 sold by the company Dow Corning.
[0165] According to a particular embodiment, compound E is chosen from guar gums modified with a C1-C 20 (poly)hydroxyalkylammonium group, preferably a C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl group. By way of example, mention can be made especially of hydroxymethyltrimethylammonium, hydroxyethyltrimethylammonium, hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium and hydroxybutyltrimethylammonium halide groups, preferably a hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium halide (preferably hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride) group.
[0166] Such modified cationic guar gums are sold, for example, under the trade name Cationic Jaguar ® C-14S guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride F, Jaguar ®C-13S guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride F, Jaguar ® C-17 guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, Jaguar ® Excel guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, Jaguar ® C-500 STD guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, Jaguar ® C-162 hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, Jaguar ® Optima guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and Jaguar ® LS hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride sold.
[0167] According to a particular embodiment, the compound E is chosen from polymers having the following INCI names:
[0168] - C1-C5 alkyl galactomannan;
[0169] - hydroxypropyl cellulose;
[0170] - hydroxypropyl methylcellulose;
[0171] - dextrin palmitate;
[0172] - cetalkyl hydroxyethylcellulose;
[0173] - myristoyl pullulan;
[0174] - hydroxypropyl oxidized starch PG-trimethylammonium chloride;
[0175] - cetalkyl hydroxyethylcellulose;
[0176] - carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose;
[0177] - ethylcellulose;
[0178] - hydroxypropyl methylcellulose;
[0179] - hydroxypropyl methylcellulose stearylox ether;
[0180] - methyl hydroxyethylcellulose;
[0181] - methylcellulose;
[0182] - hydroxypropyl starch;
[0183] - cholesteroyl hexyl diaminocarbamate pullulan;
[0184] - hydroxypropyl guar;
[0185] - carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar;
[0186] - undecylenoyl xanthan gum;
[0187] - stearyl inulin;
[0188] - inulin lauryl carbamate;
[0189] - palmitoyl inulin; and
[0190] - mixtures thereof.
[0191] According to a more preferred embodiment, the compound E is chosen from the compounds having the following INCI name:
[0192] - palmitoyl dextrin;
[0193] - myristoyl pullulan; and
[0194] - mixtures thereof.
[0195] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound E is chosen from the polysaccharide ethers as defined previously, the polysaccharide esters as defined previously, and mixtures thereof, preferably from the polysaccharide esters as defined previously, more preferably from pullulan or dextrin esters, even more preferably from palmitoyl dextrin, myristoyl pullulan, and mixtures thereof.
[0196] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises:
[0197] ■ a combination chosen from the following combination of compounds:
[0198] - a combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid in the composition (C) preferably being equal to 3 / 1 ;
[0199] - a combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid in the composition (C) preferably being equal to 2 / 1 ;
[0200] - a combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in the composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1 ; and
[0201] ■ one or more compounds E chosen from the polysaccharide ethers as defined previously, the polysaccharide esters as defined previously, and mixtures thereof, preferably from the polysaccharide esters as defined previously, more preferably from pullulan or dextrin esters, even more preferably from palmitoyl dextrin, myristoyl pullulan, and mixtures thereof.
[0202] Preferably, the composition (C) comprises a total content of compound E of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.1% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).
[0203] Preferably, the composition (C) comprises a total content of different compound D and compound E of at least 0.02% by weight, preferably at least 0.2% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 100% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 1.1% to 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).
[0204] Preferably, the mass ratio of the total amount of different compound D to the total amount of compound E in the composition (C) is ranging from 5 to 1000, preferably from 5 to 200.
[0205] The composition (C) can also comprise one or more pigments.
[0206] The term “pigment” means any pigment imparting a colour to keratin materials. They have a solubility in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%.
[0207] The pigments that can be used are especially chosen from organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, especially those described in Kirk-Othmer’s Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.
[0208] They can be natural, of natural origin or non-natural.
[0209] These pigments can be in the form of a pigment powder or paste. They can be coated or uncoated.
[0210] The pigments can be chosen, for example, from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pigments with special effects such as nacres or glitter flakes, and mixtures thereof.
[0211] The pigments can be mineral pigments. The term “mineral pigments” means any pigment meeting the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments in Ullmann’s encyclopaedia. Among the mineral pigments that can be used in the application, mention can be made of iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxides.
[0212] The pigments can be organic pigments. The term "organic pigments" means any pigment satisfying the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in Ullmann's encyclopedia.
[0213] The organic pigments can in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.
[0214] In particular, the white or coloured organic pigments can be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, blue pigments numbered Index No. CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160 in the Color Index, yellow pigments numbered Index No. CI 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005 in the Color Index, green pigments numbered Index No. CI 61565, 61570, 74260 in the Color Index, orange pigments numbered Index No. CI 11725, 45370, 71105 in the Color Index, red pigments numbered Index No. CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470 in the Color Index, pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0215] Examples that can also be mentioned include pigment pastes of organic pigments such as the products sold under the following names by the company Hoechst:
[0216] - Cosmenyl Yellow 10G: Yellow 3 pigment (CI 11710);
[0217] - Cosmenyl Yellow G: Yellow 1 pigment (CI 11680);
[0218] - Cosmenyl Orange GR: Orange 43 pigment (CI 71105);
[0219] - Cosmenyl Red R: Red 4 pigment (CI 12085);
[0220] - Cosmenyl Carmine FB: Red 5 pigment (CI 12490);
[0221] - Cosmenyl Violet RL: Violet 23 pigment (CI 51319);
[0222] - Cosmenyl Blue A2R: Blue 15.1 pigment (CI 74160);
[0223] - Cosmenyl Green GG: Green 7 pigment (CI 74260);
[0224] - Cosmenyl Black R: Black 7 pigment (CI 77266).
[0225] The pigments according to the application can also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can in particular be composed of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder for attaching an organic pigment to the core and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.
[0226] The organic pigments can also be lakes. The term "lake" means a dye adsorbed onto an insoluble particle, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0227] The inorganic substrate onto which the dye is adsorbed is, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.
[0228] Among these dyes, mention can be made of carminic acid. Mention can also be made of the dyes known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090).
[0229] An example of a lake that can be mentioned is the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).
[0230] The pigments can also be pigments with special effects. The term "pigments with special effects" means pigments that generally produce a colored appearance that is not uniform and that varies as a function of the conditions of observation (light, temperature, angle of observation, etc.) (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vivacity and a certain level of luminance). They are thus distinguished from colored pigments that provide a standard uniform opaque, semi-opaque or transparent shade.
[0231] There are several types of pigments with special effects: those with low refractive index, such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with higher refractive index, such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter flakes.
[0232] Examples of pigments with special effects that can be mentioned include nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or coated with bismuth oxychloride; colored nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides, mica coated with iron oxides, mica coated with titanium and especially with iron blue or with chromium oxides, mica coated with titanium and an organic pigment as defined previously, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Nacreous pigments that can be mentioned include the nacres Cellini (mica-Ti02-lake) sold by the company BASF, Prestige (mica-Ti02) sold by the company Eckart, Prestige Bronze (mica-Fe203) sold by the company Eckart and Colorona (mica-Ti02-Fe203) sold by the company Merck.
[0233] Mention can also be made of gold-colored nacres sold notably by the company BASF under the names Brilliant Gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze-colored nacres sold notably by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company BASF under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange-colored nacres sold notably by the company BASF under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the names Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored nacres sold notably by the company BASF under the names Nu-antique Copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a coppery tint sold notably by the company BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica); nacres with a reddish tint sold notably by the company Merck under the name Sienna Fine (17386) (Colorona); nacres with a yellowish tint sold notably by the company BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red nacres with a golden tint sold notably by the company BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold notably by the company BASF under the name Tan Opale G005 (Gemtone); black nacres with a golden tint sold notably by the company BASF under the name Nu-antique Bronze 240 AB (Timica); blue nacres sold notably by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna); white nacres with a silvery tint sold notably by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver; and golden green pink-orange nacres sold notably by the company Merck under the name Indian Summer (Xirona); and mixtures thereof.
[0234] As still examples of nacres, mention can also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
[0235] Particles comprising a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are especially sold under the name Metashine MC1080RY by the company Toyal.
[0236] Finally, examples of nacres that can also be mentioned include polyethylene terephthalate glitter flakes, especially those sold under the name Silver Glitter Flakes 1 P 0.004 X 0.004 by the company Meadowbrook Inventions. Multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum can also be envisaged.
[0237] Pigments with special effects can also be chosen from reflective particles, i.e. especially from particles whose size, structure, especially the thickness of the layer they are made of, and their physical and chemical properties and surface state allow them to reflect incident light. If appropriate, this reflection can be of sufficient intensity, when they are applied to the support to be made up, to produce, at the surface of the composition or mixture, points of highlights visible to the naked eye, i.e. points that appear sparkling, brighter in contrast with their environment.
[0238] Reflective particles can be chosen so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect produced by the coloring agents with which they are combined, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or tint.
[0239] These particles can have different forms and especially can be in flaky or globular form, in particular in spherical form.
[0240] Regardless of their form, reflective particles can or can not have a multilayer structure, and in the case of a multilayer structure, can have, for example, at least one layer of uniform thickness, especially of reflective material.
[0241] When reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they can consist, for example, of metal oxides, especially titanium or iron oxides obtained synthetically.
[0242] When reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they can comprise, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, especially a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of reflective material, especially at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate can be made of one or more organic and / or mineral materials.
[0243] More particularly, it can be chosen from glass, ceramic, graphite, metal oxides, aluminum oxide, silicon dioxide, silicates, especially aluminosilicates and borosilicates, and synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, this list not being limiting.
[0244] The reflective material can comprise a metallic layer or a layer of a metallic material.
[0245] Reflective particles are notably described in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
[0246] Furthermore, as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a metallic layer, mention can also be made of particles comprising a silver-coated borosilicate substrate.
[0247] Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate in the form of flakes are sold by the company Toyo under the name Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS. Particles with a glass substrate coated with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy are sold by the same company under the names Crystal Star GF 550 and GF 2525.
[0248] Particles comprising a metallic substrate, such as silver, aluminium, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze or titanium, coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, such as titanium oxide, aluminium oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxide, and mixtures thereof, can also be used.
[0249] Examples that can be mentioned include aluminium, bronze or copper powders coated with Si02, sold by the company Eckart under the name Visionaire.
[0250] Interference pigments not attached to a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker) or interference holographic flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectraf / x from Spectratek) can also be mentioned. Special-effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments (whether these are substances that fluoresce under daylight or substances that produce ultraviolet fluorescence), phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots (for example sold by the company Quantum Dots Corporation).
[0251] The various pigments that can be used in the present application make it possible to obtain a wide range of colours, and also specific optical effects, such as metallic effects or interference effects.
[0252] The size of the pigments used in the composition according to the application is generally between 10 nm and 200 pm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 pm and more preferentially between 30 nm and 50 pm.
[0253] The pigments can be dispersed in the composition by means of a dispersant.
[0254] The dispersants serve to protect the dispersed particles from their agglomeration or flocculation. The dispersants can be surfactants, oligomers, polymers or mixtures of several of these, carrying one or more functional groups having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can become physically or chemically attached to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also contain at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid and of C8 to C20 fatty acids, and esters of polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g / mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel, or polyhydroxystearic acid such as the product sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof, are used in particular.
[0255] As other dispersants that can be used in the composition of the application, mention can be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, such as Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, and polydimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures, such as those sold under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C by the company Dow Corning.
[0256] The pigments used in the composition can be surface-treated with organic agents.
[0257] Thus, the pigments that have been previously subjected to surface treatment usable in the context of the application are pigments that have been subjected, in whole or in part, to a surface treatment of chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanochemical or mechanical nature with organic agents, such as those described notably in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Volume 105, pages 53-64, then dispersed in the composition according to the application. These organic agents can be chosen, for example, from waxes, such as carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and derivatives thereof, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol and lauric acid and derivatives thereof; anionic surfactants; lecithin; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminium salts of fatty acids, such as aluminium stearate or aluminium laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylenes; (meth)acrylic polymers, such as polymethyl methacrylate; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanolamines; silicone compounds, such as silicones, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes; organofluoro compounds, such as perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicone compounds.
[0258] The surface-treated pigments that can be used in the composition can also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and / or can have undergone several surface treatments.
[0259] The surface-treated pigments that can be used in the context of the application can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to the person skilled in the art or can be purchased as such.
[0260] Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are coated with an organic layer.
[0261] The organic agents that treat the pigments can be deposited on the pigments by evaporation of the solvent, by chemical reaction between the molecules of the surface agent or by formation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments.
[0262] The surface treatment can thus be carried out, for example, by chemical reaction of the surface agent with the surface of the pigments and by formation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments or fillers. This method is described notably in patent US 4 578 266.
[0263] Preferably, organic agents that covalently bond to the pigments are used.
[0264] The agents used for the surface treatment can represent from 0.1 % to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the surface-treated pigments, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the surface-treated pigments and even more preferentially from 1 % to 20% by weight.
[0265] Preferably, the surface treatment agent of the pigments is chosen from the following treatment agents:
[0266] - PEG-silicone treatment agents, such as AQ surface treatment agent sold by LCW;
[0267] - Dimethicone treatment agents, such as Covasil 3.05 surface treatment agent sold by LCW;
[0268] - Dimethicone / methyl trimethiconate treatment agents, such as Covasil 4.05 surface treatment agent sold by LCW;
[0269] - Dimethicone / methyl trimethiconate treatment agents, such as Covasil 4.05 surface treatment agent sold by LCW;
[0270] - Dimethicone / methyl trimethiconate treatment agents, such as Covasil 4.05 surface treatment agent sold by LCW;
[0271] - Dimethicone / methyl trimethiconate treatment agents, such as Covasil 4.05 surface treatment agent sold by LCW;
[0272] - Dimethicone / methyl trimethiconate treatment agents, such as Covasil 4.05 surface treatment agent sold by LCW;
[0273] - Dimethicone / methyl trimethiconate treatment agents, such as Covasil 4.05 surface treatment agent sold by LCW;
[0274] - Dimethicone / methyl trimethiconate treatment agents, such as Covasil 4.05 surface treatment agent sold by LCW;
[0275] - Dimethicone / methyl trimethiconate treatment agents, such as Covasil 4.05 surface treatment agent sold by LCW;
[0276] - Dimethicone / methyl trimethiconate treatment agents, such as Covasil 4.05 surface treatment agent sold by LCW;
[0277] - Dimethicone / methyl trimethiconate treatment agents, such as Covasil 4.05 surface treatment agent sold by LCW;
[0278] - Dimethicone / methyl trimethiconate treatment agents, such as Covasil 4.05 surface treatment agent sold by LCW;
[0279] - Dimethicone / methyl trimethiconate treatment agents, such as Covasil 4.05 surface treatment agent sold by LCW;
[0280] - Dimethicone / methyl trimethiconate treatment agents, such as Covasil 4.05 surface treatment agent sold by LCW.
[0281] According to a particular embodiment of the application, the dispersant is present with the organic or mineral pigments in the form of microparticles of sub-micrometric size.
[0282] The term "sub-micrometric" or "sub-micron" means that the pigments have a particle size which has been micronized by a micronization process and have an average particle size of less than a micrometer (pm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 pm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 pm.
[0283] According to one embodiment, the dispersant and the pigments are present in amounts (dispersant : pigments) according to a weight ratio between 1 : 4 and 4 : 1, in particular between 1.5 : 3.5 and 3.5 : 1 or better still between 1.75 : 3 and 3 : 1.
[0284] Thus, the dispersants can have a silicone backbone, such as silicone polyethers and aminosilicone type dispersants. Among the suitable dispersants, mention can be made of:
[0285] - aminosilicones, i.e. silicones comprising one or more amine groups, such as those sold under the following names and index numbers: BYK LPX 21879 by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1 sold by Genesee Polymers,
[0286] - silicone acrylates, such as Tego® RC 902, Tego® RC 922, Tego® RC 1041 and Tego® RC 1043 sold by Evonik,
[0287] - polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones with carboxyl groups, such as X-22162 and X-22370 sold by Shin-Etsu, epoxy silicones, such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682 and GP-695 sold by Genesee Polymers, or Tego® RC 1401, Tego® RC 1403 and Tego® RC 1412 sold by Evonik.
[0288] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersant is of aminosilicone type and cationic.
[0289] Preferably, the pigments are chosen from mineral pigments, mixed mineral-organic pigments, or organic pigments.
[0290] In one variant of the application, the pigments are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments that have been surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds. In another variant of the application, the pigments are mineral pigments.
[0291] Preferably, the pigments used in the process of the application are chosen from nacres, carbon black such as Carbon Black 2, iron oxides, especially red, brown or black iron oxides, and mica coated with iron oxide, triarylmethane pigments, especially blue and violet triarylmethane pigments such as Blue 1 Lake, azo pigments, especially red azo pigments such as D&C Red 7, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts of Lithol Red such as the calcium salt of Lithol Red B, and mixtures thereof.
[0292] More preferentially, the pigments are chosen from iron oxides, especially red, brown or black iron oxides.
[0293] Even more preferentially, the pigments are chosen from red iron oxides.
[0294] As examples of red iron oxides, mention can be made of the iron oxides sold under the name SunPuro® Red Iron Oxide by the company Sun Chemical.
[0295] The composition (C) can comprise pigments in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.005% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).
[0296] Other characteristics of the composition (C)
[0297] The composition (C) is a cosmetic composition, i.e. a composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with human keratin fibres.
[0298] The composition (C) can comprise water in a total content preferably ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0299] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total water content of less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferentially less than 5% by weight, even more preferentially less than 1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, and better still less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still the composition (C) is anhydrous.
[0300] Such a small amount of water is introduced, as appropriate, notably by the ingredients of the composition, which can contain a residual amount thereof.
[0301] The pH of the composition (C) is preferably between 2 and 11, more preferentially between 3 and 9. The pH can be adjusted using an organic or inorganic acid or an organic or inorganic base, generally used in cosmetics.
[0302] The composition (C) can comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from C2-C4 alcohols, polyols and polyol ethers, aromatic alcohols, hydrocarbon-based oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0303] When present in the composition (C), this or these organic solvents can be present in the composition (C) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 98% by weight, preferably ranging from 30% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).
[0304] The composition (C) is preferably liquid.
[0305] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liquid composition" means, at a macroscopic scale, a composition which is not solid, which does not have its own shape and which cannot be grasped. It is a fluid which adapts to the shape of the container in which it is placed at room temperature (25°C). When poured into another container, the liquid retains its volume. Thus, the liquid has its own volume. At rest, the free surface of the liquid is generally flat and horizontal.
[0306] The composition (C) can be in any presentation form conventionally used for hair care applications. In a non-limiting manner, the composition (C) can be in the form of a lotion, serum, cream, mousse, gel, spray or hairspray.
[0307] The composition (C) can be used in a rinse-off or leave-on application.
[0308] The composition (C) can be in the form of a hair mask, a conditioning composition or a pre-shampoo. The composition (C) can also be in the form of a composition which is added to or mixed with a hair mask or a conditioning composition before application.
[0309] The composition (C) can be packaged in a pump bottle or an aerosol container, so as to apply the composition (C) in a gaseous form (hairspray) or in a foam form. In these cases, the composition (C) preferably comprises at least one propellant.
[0310] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total content of less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.01% by weight, more preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C), of colorant(s); even more preferentially, the composition (C) is free of colorant(s).
[0311] The term "coloring agent" means an oxidation dye, a direct dye or a pigment.
[0312] The term "oxidation dye" means an oxidation dye precursor chosen from oxidation bases and couplers. Oxidation bases and couplers are colorless or slightly colored compounds which form colored substances via condensation reactions in the presence of an oxidizing agent.
[0313] The term "direct dye" means a natural and / or synthetic dye other than oxidation dyes, including in the form of one or more extracts. These are colored compounds which will spread on the surface of the fiber. They can be ionic or non-ionic, i.e. anionic, cationic, neutral or non-ionic.
[0314] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total silicone content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still the composition (C) is free of silicone.
[0315] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic polymer of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still the composition (C) is free of cationic polymer.
[0316] The term "cationic polymer" means any non-silicone polymer (not comprising silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0317] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic surfactant of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still the composition (C) is free of cationic surfactant.
[0318] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total content of poly(oxyethylated) compounds of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still the composition (C) is free of poly(oxyethylated) compounds.
[0319] Examples of poly(oxyethylated) compounds that can be mentioned include polyethylene glycol (PEG).
[0320] The composition (C) can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibres, preferably to wet keratin fibres.
[0321] The bath ratio of the composition (C) applied to the keratin fibres can range from 0.02 to 10. The term "bath ratio" means the ratio between the total weight of the composition (C) applied and the total weight of the keratin fibres to be treated.
[0322] The process can comprise at least one additional step after step i), chosen from steps ii) to iv) below:
[0323] ii) a step of applying a composition (C) to the keratin fibres, preferably for a period of at least 10 seconds, the application step being optionally carried out under a wrapping or a gas-impermeable film of the plastic film type;
[0324] iii) a step of rinsing and / or washing the keratin fibres;
[0325] iv) a step of drying the keratin fibres in ambient air or with the aid of a heating device.
[0326] Preferably, the process comprises the additional steps ii) and iv) as described previously and in that order.
[0327] According to a particular embodiment, the process comprises all the additional steps ii), iii) and iv) as described previously and in that order.
[0328] The step of applying the composition (C) can last from 10 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 30 minutes.
[0329] The temperature of the heating device can range from 45°C to 230°C, preferably from 45°C to 100°C, more preferentially from 50°C to 80°C. A hairdryer, a heating hood, a clamp plate or a heated brush can be used, for example, as a heating device.
[0330] The drying step iv) can also be a combination of drying with air or with a heating device (such as a hairdryer or a heating hood) at a temperature ranging from 50°C to 80°C, possibly followed by a straightening step (preferably with a straightening iron).
[0331] Steps i) and optionally ii) to iv) can be repeated as many times as desired, and each cycle of steps can be spaced from the next cycle by a few minutes to a few days or weeks. Hair treatments other than the present application can be performed between different application periods, before or after.
[0332] Composition (C)
[0333] According to a second aspect, a subject of the application is a composition (C) as previously described.
[0334] Use
[0335] According to a third aspect, a subject of the application is the use of a composition (C) as previously described for caring for keratin fibres, preferably for imparting a sense of suppleness and / or smoothness and / or shine to keratin fibres, more preferentially for imparting a sense of suppleness and / or smoothness to them.
[0336] According to a fourth aspect, a subject of the application is the use of a composition (C) as previously described for protecting keratin fibres from moisture, preferably for limiting the formation of curls and / or the increase in volume of a whole head of hair in a humid environment. Examples
[0337] The following examples will allow the application to be more clearly understood, however they are not limiting in nature. In the following examples, all the amounts are expressed in percentage by mass relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.
[0338] The following compositions C1 to C9 were prepared according to the preparation protocol described below:
[0339] [Table 1]
[0340]
[0341] [Table 2]
[0342]
[0343] Method for preparing compositions C1 to C9
[0344] The two acids were mixed in a flask. The mixture was heated at 70°C under stirring for 1 hour. After the temperature of the reaction medium had returned to room temperature, compound E was added to the resulting liquid and the mixture was heated again at 70°C under stirring for 20 minutes. After return to room temperature, compositions C1 to C9 were obtained in the form of colourless, transparent, slightly viscous, oily liquids.
[0345] Example 1: Evaluation of hair hold in a humid environment
[0346] The hold of the hair styles, i.e. the curl formation and volume increase of the whole head of hair in a humid environment, of compositions C1 to C4 was evaluated according to the evaluation protocol described hereafter.
[0347] Hair tresses used
[0348] A 27 cm long tress of Brazilian hair having type IV curls was used, 2.7 g.
[0349] Evaluation protocol
[0350] Before application of the test compositions, the tresses were washed with DOP shampoo (0.4 g / g of hair).
[0351] Then 81 mg of each test composition was applied to a separate wet tress, the wet tresses being previously wrung out and wiped dry on blotting paper. This application was carried out by hand, while massaging the hair fibres.
[0352] The hair tresses were then combed, detangled and placed in a glove box at 20% relative humidity at 25°C for 2 hours.
[0353] The tresses were then placed in an oven at 80% relative humidity, 25°C for 24 hours.
[0354] The volume and curliness measurements were carried out by measuring the width at the middle height of the tresses on leaving the oven and were compared with the values obtained for reference tresses not treated with a composition according to the application.
[0355] Evaluation results
[0356] The measurements of the width at the middle height of the tresses (in cm) are summarised in the following table:
[0357] [Table 3]
[0358]
[0359] It can be seen that the values of the width at the middle height of the tresses of the tresses treated via the process according to the application are lower than those of the reference tresses.
[0360] The method according to the application thus makes it possible to limit the formation of curls and the increase in the volume of the hair in a humid environment, even in the absence of silicone-based starting materials.
[0361] Example 2: Evaluation of "smooth feel" via strain determination method
[0362] The method comprises recording the friction of a dry or wet hair strand when it is displaced in the root / ends direction between two pads clamping it with constant compression. This method thus makes it possible to evaluate the "smoothness" by imitating the passage of two fingers along the strand.
[0363] The smaller the friction, the smoother the surface state of the hair.
[0364] The "smoothness" of compositions C1, C2, C7 and C8 was evaluated according to the evaluation protocol described below.
[0365] Hair strands used
[0366] For this study, bleached Caucasian hair strands (alkali solubility AS20) were used.
[0367] Evaluation protocol
[0368] The test compositions were applied according to the leave-on and rinse-off protocols described below, followed by wet and dry measurements.
[0369] The force ratio between the treated hair and the untreated hair was thus determined: F 经处理的 (W) / F 未经处理的 (W).
[0370] Leave-on protocol
[0371] 1 ) The strands were washed with DOP shampoo using a bath ratio of 0.4 g / g of hair;
[0372] 2) The composition was applied to the still wet hair at a bath ratio of 0.15 g / g of hair, without leave-on time.
[0373] Rinse-off protocol
[0374] 1 ) The strands were washed with DOP shampoo using a bath ratio of 0.4 g / g of hair;
[0375] 2) The composition was applied to the still wet hair at a bath ratio of 0.4 g / g of hair, followed by a leave-on time of 5 min.
[0376] 3) Rinse: 15 times under tap water, 2 times dried with the fingers, wetted with water and then finally dried with tweezers.
[0377] The measurements were carried out on still wet hair or on hair dried in an oven at 60°C for 15 min.
[0378] Results
[0379] The results are summarized in the following table:
[0380] [Table 4]
[0381]
[0382] Compared to untreated hair, lower friction on dry and wet hair was observed for hair treated via the method according to the application. The hair surface is smoother even in the absence of silicone-based starting materials. The treated hair is softer and easier to comb and detangle compared to untreated hair.
Claims
1. A process for treating keratin fibers, comprising a step i) of applying to said keratin fibers a composition (C) comprising: • at least two different compounds D independently selected from the following compounds of formula (I), salts thereof, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof: in formula (I): ■ R 1 Indicates: - a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, said hydrocarbon-based group being optionally substituted with one or more groups, identical or different, chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cycles such as phenyl, and / or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -0-, -CO-, -NR a - or combinations thereof such as -0-CO-, -(CO)-0-, -NR a -(CO)- or -(CO)-NR a -; or - (hetero)aryl, which is optionally substituted with one or more identical or different radicals R b - (CO)-; ■ R a represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said hydrocarbon-based radical being optionally substituted with one or more groups, identical or different, chosen from (-OH), amino (-NH2) or carboxyl (-COOH); ■ R b represents (C2-C 10 )alkyl; and • one or more compounds E selected from modified polysaccharides.
2. The method according to the preceding claim, wherein, R 1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, said hydrocarbon-based radical being optionally substituted with one or more groups, identical or different, chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cycles such as phenyl, and / or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -0-, -CO-, -NR a – or combinations thereof such as -0-CO-, -(CO)-0-, -NR a -(CO)- or -(CO)-NR a –, preferably an unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferentially an unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms.
3. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein, at least one of the different compounds D, preferably all of the different compounds D, are in non-salt form.
4. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein, at least two of the different compounds D are in non-salt form, and the total amount of one of the different compounds D in non-salt form and the total amount of another of the different compounds D in non-salt form in composition (C) range from 0.25 to 4 in molar terms.
5. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, composition (C) comprises no more than five different compounds D, preferably no more than four different compounds D, more preferably no more than three different compounds D, even more preferably no more than two different compounds D.
6. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, the different compounds D are selected from the following compounds 1 to 39, salts thereof, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof: preferably from compounds 1 to 20, 22, 25, 26, 28, 31, 32, 36 or 39, salts thereof, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from compounds 1, 4, 16 or 17, salts thereof, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from compounds 4, 16 or 17, salts thereof, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.
7. The method of claim 1, wherein, the different compounds D are selected from the following combinations of compounds: - the combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 3 / 1 ; - the combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 2 / 1 ; - the combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid in composition (C) preferably ranging from 0.25 to 0.7, more preferably being equal to 1 / 3; - the combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1 ; - the combination of capric acid and sodium laurate, the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of sodium laurate in composition (C) preferably being equal to 4 / 1 ; preferably from the following combinations of compounds: - the combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 3 / 1 ; - the combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 2 / 1 ; - the combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid in composition (C) preferably ranging from 0.25 to 0.7, more preferably being equal to 1 / 3; - a combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1 ; more preferentially chosen from the following combinations of compounds: - a combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 3 / 1 ; - a combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 2 / 1 ; - a combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1.
8. The method of any of the preceding claims, wherein, Composition (C) comprises a total content of different compounds D of at least 0.01 % by weight, preferably at least 0.05% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.1 % to 99.9% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 1 % to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C).
9. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, Said compound E is cationic, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric, preferentially non- ionic or anionic, more preferentially non-ionic.
10. The method of any of the preceding claims, wherein, Said compound E is derived from a polysaccharide chosen from: - gum arabic; - gum ghatti; - gum karaya; - gum tragacanth; - agar agar; - alginate; - carrageenan and furcellaran; - guar gum; - locust bean gum; - fenugreek gum; - tamarind gum; - konjac gum; - xanthan gum or dehydroxylated xanthan gum; - gellan gum; - scleroglucan gum; - cellulose; - starch; - inulin; - pectin; - pullulan; - chitin; - chitosan; - hyaluronic acid; and - mixtures thereof; preferentially chosen from starch, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.
11. The method of any of the preceding claims, wherein, Said compound E is chosen from polysaccharide ethers, polysaccharide esters, and mixtures thereof, preferentially chosen from polysaccharide esters, more preferentially chosen from pullulan or dextrin esters, even more preferentially chosen from dextrin palmitate, myristoyl pullulan, and mixtures thereof.
12. The method of any one of the preceding claims, wherein, Composition (C) comprises a total content of compound E of at least 0.01 % by weight, preferably at least 0.1 % by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C).
13. The method of any of the preceding claims, wherein, The mass ratio of the total amount of different compounds D to the total amount of compound E in composition (C) is ranging from 5 to 1000, preferentially from 5 to 200.
14. The method of any of the preceding claims, wherein, Composition (C) comprises a total content of silicone of less than 5% by weight, preferentially less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1 % by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1 % by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01 % by weight, and better still less than 0.001 % by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still composition (C) is free of silicone.
15. The method of any of the preceding claims, wherein, Composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic polymer of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still composition (C) is free of cationic polymer.
16. The method of any one of the preceding claims, wherein, Composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic surfactant of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still composition (C) is free of cationic surfactant.
17. The method of any one of the preceding claims, wherein, Composition (C) comprises a total content of poly(oxyethylenated) compound of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still composition (C) is free of poly(oxyethylenated) compound.
18. The method of any of the preceding claims, wherein, Composition (C) comprises a total water content of less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferentially less than 5% by weight, even more preferentially less than 1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, and better still less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still composition (C) is anhydrous.
19. The method of any of the preceding claims, wherein, Composition (C) is a liquid.
20. The method of any of the preceding claims, wherein, Composition (C) comprises one or more organic solvents chosen from C2-C4 alcohols, polyols and polyol ethers, aromatic alcohols, hydrocarbon-based oils, and mixtures thereof.
21. The method of any of the preceding claims, wherein, Composition (C) is applied to dry or wet keratin fibres, preferably to wet keratin fibres.
22. The process according to the preceding claim, comprising at least one additional step after step i) chosen from steps ii) to iv): ii) a step of applying composition (C) to the keratin fibres, preferably for a period of at least 10 seconds, said application step being optionally carried out under a wrap or a gas-impermeable film of the plastic film type; iii) a step of rinsing and / or washing the keratin fibres; iv) a step of drying the keratin fibres in ambient air or with the aid of a heating device.
23. A composition (C) as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 20.
24. Use of a composition (C) as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 20 for caring for keratin fibres, preferably for imparting a sense of suppleness and / or smoothness and / or shine to the keratin fibres, more preferentially for imparting a sense of suppleness and / or smoothness to them.
25. Use of the composition (C) according to any one of claims 1 to 20 for protecting keratin fibres against moisture, preferably for limiting the formation of frizz and / or the increase in volume of a head of hair in a humid environment.
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