Same-shape different-color double-faced jacquard fabric and production method thereof
By using four and a half jacquard combs and mirror symmetrical weaving technology, a double-sided jacquard fabric with the same shape but different colors is woven on a double-needle bed double jacquard machine. This solves the problems of snagging, curling, and comfort of traditional jacquard fabrics, and achieves a high-efficiency, lightweight, and breathable double-sided jacquard effect to meet the needs of high-end clothing.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2026-01-30
- Publication Date
- 2026-03-31
AI Technical Summary
Traditional single-needle jacquard fabrics have a float structure on the reverse side, which makes them prone to snagging, poor abrasion resistance, and easy to curl at the edges, limiting comfort and aesthetics. Furthermore, existing double-sided jacquard technology suffers from complex pattern design, low production efficiency, high cost, and poor breathability.
Employing a four-and-a-half-size Jacquard comb and mirror-symmetric weaving technique, on a double-needle bed double Jacquard machine, the basic lateral movement of the Jacquard comb is superimposed with the Jacquard needle offset signal to weave a double-sided jacquard fabric with the same pattern outline but different colors on both sides, achieving a smooth double-sided structure and functional zoning.
It eliminates the problems of snagging and curling, achieves double-sided wearability and high added value, simplifies hardware configuration, reduces costs, improves the efficiency of the production process, and makes the fabric lightweight and breathable, meeting the needs of high-end apparel.
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Figure CN121760128A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention relates to the field of textile technology, and in particular to a double-sided jacquard fabric with the same shape but different colors and its production method. Background Technology
[0002] In the textile industry, jacquard fabrics are widely popular due to their rich pattern expressiveness and decorative appeal. Traditional jacquard fabrics, especially jacquard warp-knitted jacquard fabrics, mostly employ single-needle bed knitting technology. Fabrics produced by this technique typically exhibit a pronounced "one-sidedness": the front side consists of flat loops forming the desired jacquard pattern; while the reverse side forms extended threads in the form of floats. This structure introduces several inherent drawbacks: Easy to snag and poor abrasion resistance: The long floats on the reverse side are easily snagged by sharp objects, causing the yarn to snag or even the fabric to break, affecting the service life.
[0003] Easy to curl at the edges: Due to the stress difference between the front and back structures (loop and float), the fabric will curl spontaneously at the edges, which will cause great inconvenience to subsequent sewing and affect the quality of the finished garment.
[0004] Comfort and aesthetics are limited: the rough, floating surface on the reverse side is uncomfortable when in direct contact with the skin, which restricts the double-sided design and wearing methods of the garment.
[0005] In existing technologies, methods for achieving double-sided different colors or double-sided patterns mainly include: Double-needle-bed multi-guide bar knitting: This method uses a double-needle-bed warp knitting machine equipped with a large number of guide bars (usually 8 or more) to form a double-sided structure through the complex coordination of the front and rear needle bed guide bars. This method can achieve a double-sided effect, but the pattern design is complex, the pattern types are limited, the production efficiency is low, and the resulting fabric is usually thicker and not lightweight enough.
[0006] Double-layer fabric lamination: Two single-sided jacquard fabrics are woven separately and then bonded together using adhesive or sewing techniques. This method is cumbersome, costly, and may involve the use of chemical adhesives, affecting the fabric's breathability and environmental friendliness. The laminated layers are also prone to peeling.
[0007] Weft-knitted double-sided jacquard: Double-sided jacquard can be achieved on weft-knitted circular knitting machines or flat knitting machines, but its pattern fineness and production efficiency are usually not as good as warp-knitted jacquard, and there are limitations in forming large-cycle complex patterns.
[0008] Furthermore, both warp-knitted and weft-knitted double-sided jacquard techniques often face challenges in achieving the visual effect of "identical shape but different colors" (i.e., the outlines of the patterns on the front and back are exactly the same but the colors are interchangeable). These challenges include high requirements for pattern alignment accuracy and significant difficulties in production control. Meanwhile, how to produce structurally stable, smooth-sided double-sided jacquard fabrics with functional zones (such as locally thicker or locally breathable and elastic) without significantly increasing weaving complexity or sacrificing the fabric's lightness and breathability remains a pressing technical challenge in this field.
[0009] Therefore, there is an urgent need to develop a new fabric structure and production method that can produce jacquard fabrics with a more streamlined configuration and higher efficiency, which simultaneously possess the visual effect of "same shape, different color", double-sided smooth coil structure, excellent wearing performance and potential functional zoning capabilities. Summary of the Invention
[0010] This invention proposes a double-sided jacquard fabric with the same shape but different colors and its production method, which solves the inherent problems of traditional single-needle bed jacquard fabrics, such as easy snagging, poor abrasion resistance, and severe edge curling caused by the floating thread structure on the reverse side, as well as the disadvantages of its one-sidedness affecting comfort and aesthetics.
[0011] The core technical solution of this invention is: based on the hardware of "four and a half machine combs + double Jacquard control" and the fundamental logic of "mirror symmetry weaving", by superimposing the Jacquard needle offset signal on the basic transverse shift of the Jacquard comb, each needle facing the front and rear needle beds forms only one loop on each weaving column, thereby weaving a double-sided jacquard fabric with the same pattern outline on both sides but different colors of raw material A and raw material B respectively.
[0012] The specific solution of the present invention is as follows: A method for producing a double-sided jacquard fabric with the same shape but different colors is disclosed. The fabric is produced on a double-needle bed, double-jacquard knitting machine, using four and a half jacquard combs. The first and second half jacquard combs (JB2.1 and JB2.2) use the same material A, while the third and fourth half jacquard combs (JB3.1 and JB3.2) use the same material B. A three-needle jacquard method with reverse yarn padding is employed. The fabric is knitted synchronously on the front needle bed in odd-even rows or synchronously on the back needle bed in odd-even rows. By superimposing the basic transverse shift of the jacquard combs with the jacquard needle offset signal, each needle facing the front and back needle beds forms only one loop on each knitting row, thus producing a double-sided jacquard fabric with the same pattern outline on both sides but revealing different colors (material A and material B, respectively).
[0013] Furthermore, the fabric being knitted synchronously on the front needle bed in odd-even rows or synchronously on the back needle bed in odd-even rows includes: When material A is knitting loops on the front needle bed needles, material B is knitting loops on the back needle bed needles directly opposite the front needle bed needles. At this time, JB2.1 or JB2.2 forms loops on the front needle bed, and JB3.1 or JB3.2 forms loops on the back needle bed. When material B is knitting loops on the front needle bed needles, material A is knitting loops on the back needle bed needles directly opposite the front needle bed needles. At this time, JB2.1 or JB2.2 forms loops on the back needle bed, and JB3.1 or JB3.2 forms loops on the front needle bed.
[0014] Furthermore, the basic transverse movement structure of JB2.1 and JB3.1 is set to 0-1-0-1 / 2-1-2-1 / / , and the basic transverse movement structure of JB2.2 and JB3.2 is set to 2-1-2-1 / 0-1-0-1 / / . The offset signal H represents no offset and T represents offset. By different combinations of offset signals, each Jacquard comb can form at least one of the following structures: thick structure, thin structure, medium-thick structure, or mesh structure.
[0015] Furthermore, when the transverse shift structure is 0-1-0-1 / 2-1-2-1 / / , both odd and even rows are knitted on the front needle bed: When the offset signal is configured as HHTH TTHT, the comb forms a thick structure, and its padding yarn number is 0-1-1-1 / 3-2-2-2 / / ; When the offset signal is configured as HHTH HHHT, the comb forms a thin structure, and its padding yarn number is 0-1-1-1 / 2-1-2-2 / / ; When the offset signal is configured as TTTH TTHT, the comb forms a secondary thickness structure, and its padding yarn number is 1-2-1-1 / 3-2-2-2 / / ; When the offset signal is configured as TTTH HHHT, the comb forms a mesh structure, and its padding yarn number is 1-2-1-1 / 2-1-2-2 / / ; When the transverse shift pattern is 0-1-0-1 / 2-1-2-1 / / , both odd and even rows are knitted on the back needle bed: When the offset signal is configured as THHH HTTT, the comb forms a thick structure, and its padding yarn number is 1-1-0-1 / 2-2-3-2 / / ; When the offset signal is configured as THHH HTHH, the comb forms a thin structure, and its padding yarn number is 1-1-0-1 / 2-2-2-1 / / ; When the offset signal is configured as THTT HTTT, the comb forms a secondary thickness structure, and its padding yarn number is 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-3-2 / / ; When the offset signal is configured as THTT HTHH, the comb forms a mesh structure, and its padding yarn number is 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-2-1 / / ; When the transverse shift pattern is 2-1-2-1 / 0-1-0-1 / / , both odd and even rows are knitted on the front needle bed: When the offset signal is configured as TTHT HHTH, the comb forms a thick structure, and its padding yarn number is 3-2-2-2 / 0-1-1-1 / / ; When the offset signal is configured as HHHT HHTH, the comb forms a thin structure, and its padding yarn number is 2-1-2-2 / 0-1-1-1 / / ; When the offset signal is configured as TTHT TTTH, the comb forms a secondary thickness structure, and its padding yarn number is 3-2-2-2 / 1-2-1-1 / / ; When the offset signal is configured as HHHT TTTH, the comb forms a mesh structure with a padding yarn number of 2-1-2-2 / 1-2-1-1 / / . When the transverse weave is a 2-1-2-1 / 0-1-0-1 / / comb, both odd and even rows are knitted on the back needle bed: When the offset signal is configured as HTTT THHH, the comb forms a thick structure, and its padding yarn number is 2-2-3-2 / 1-1-0-1 / / ; When the offset signal is configured as HTHH THHH, the comb forms a thin structure, and its padding yarn number is 2-2-2-1 / 1-1-0-1 / / ; When the offset signal is configured as HTTT THTT, the comb forms a secondary thickness structure, and its padding yarn number is 2-2-3-2 / 1-1-1-2 / / ; When the offset signal is configured as HTHH THTT, the comb forms a mesh structure with a padding yarn number of 2-2-2-1 / 1-1-1-2 / / .
[0016] Furthermore, the warp threading methods of the first and second half-machine numbers Jacquard combs include: one thread and one empty space and one empty space and one thread, or one empty space and one thread and one empty space, or both one thread and one empty space, or both one empty space and one thread; the warp threading methods of the third and fourth half-machine numbers Jacquard combs include: one thread and one empty space and one empty space and one thread, or one empty space and one thread and one empty space, or both one thread and one empty space, or both one empty space and one thread.
[0017] Furthermore, the surface layer is formed by weaving the yarn of raw material A, and the bottom layer is formed by weaving the yarn of raw material B. The surface layer and the bottom layer are woven independently and there is no yarn interlacing between them, forming a double-layer composite structure with an intermediate air gap layer; or, the surface layer and the bottom layer are connected together by interlacing and interlocking the yarns in the weaving rows, forming an integrated composite structure.
[0018] Furthermore, the basic transverse movement structure used in each of the four half-size Jacquard combs is selected from open coil structure, closed coil structure, or a mixture of the two.
[0019] A double-sided jacquard fabric with the same shape but different colors, woven from raw material A and raw material B in one pass on a double-needle bed double jacquard warp knitting machine, includes at least: Layered thick area: Its surface layer is woven from yarn of raw material A with a thick weave structure, and the bottom layer is woven from yarn of raw material B with a thick weave structure. There is no yarn interlacing between the surface layer and the bottom layer, forming a double-layer structure with an air gap layer. Thick connecting area: Its surface layer is woven from yarn of raw material B with a thick weave structure, and the bottom layer is woven from yarn of raw material A with a thick weave structure. The surface layer and the bottom layer are connected by yarns interlacing in each weave row to form an integrated thickened structure. Layered elastic mesh area: its surface layer is woven from yarn of raw material A, and its bottom layer is woven from yarn of raw material B. There is no yarn interlacing between the surface layer and the bottom layer. The structure of the surface layer and the bottom layer is composed of thin weave, mesh weave and secondary thick weave arranged in a predetermined cycle to form a double-layer elastic breathable structure with an air gap layer. Connecting elastic mesh area: its surface layer is woven from yarn of raw material B, and its bottom layer is woven from yarn of raw material A. The surface layer and the bottom layer are connected by yarn interlacing in each weave row. The respective structures of the surface layer and the bottom layer are composed of thin weave, mesh weave and secondary thick weave arranged in a predetermined cycle to form an integrated elastic breathable structure.
[0020] Furthermore, the thick weave padding yarn number is 0-1-1-1 / 3-2-2-2 / / , 1-1-0-1 / 2-2-3-2 / / , 3-2-2-2 / 0-1-1-1 / / or 2-2-3-2 / 1-1-0-1 / / ; The thin weave is characterized by a padding yarn number of 0-1-1-1 / 2-1-2-2 / / or 1-1-0-1 / 2-2-2-1 / / ; The mesh structure is characterized by a padding yarn number of 1-2-1-1 / 2-1-2-2 / / or 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-2-1 / / ; The secondary thickness weave is characterized by padding yarn numbers of 1-2-1-1 / 3-2-2-2 / / or 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-3-2 / / .
[0021] Furthermore, raw material A is 100D / 48f polyester low-elasticity yarn; raw material B is 150D / 48f polyester cationic low-elasticity yarn.
[0022] The present invention has the following technical effects: Eliminating snags and curling: Because both sides of the fabric have smooth loop structures, the floats on the reverse side of traditional single-sided jacquard fabrics are completely hidden, thus solving the problems of snags and pulls caused by floats. At the same time, the symmetrical loop structure ensures balanced stress on both sides of the fabric, effectively solving the serious problem of curling, greatly facilitating subsequent cutting and sewing processes, and improving garment quality and efficiency.
[0023] Achieving true reversibility and high added value: The fabric has a smooth and beautiful jacquard pattern (same shape, different color) on both sides, allowing the garment to be worn on both sides and in multiple ways. Compared with printed fabrics that show white when bent, this invention significantly enhances the product's fashion sense, fun, and practical value, meeting the market's demand for high-end multifunctional clothing.
[0024] The hardware configuration is significantly simplified, reducing costs: only four and a half jacquard combs are needed to achieve complex double-sided full-width jacquard effects on a double-needle bed machine. Compared to the traditional double-sided jacquard which requires eight or more full-size combs, this greatly simplifies the machine structure and reduces equipment investment, maintenance costs, and production energy consumption.
[0025] Highly efficient production process, one-time molding: Through precise electronic control, all complex double-sided structures, colors and patterns are completed simultaneously in one weaving process, eliminating the need for subsequent secondary processing steps such as lamination and bonding, resulting in a short production process and high efficiency.
[0026] Lightweight yet high-performance: Despite the complex integration of functions, the fabric maintains its lightweight characteristics while offering excellent breathability and elasticity thanks to its minimalist comb configuration and coil structure design, overcoming the limitations of traditional double-sided fabrics that are often heavy and stiff. Attached Figure Description
[0027] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of fabric zoning in one embodiment of the present invention; Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of tissue circulation in the thick surface region; Figure 3 This is a schematic diagram of tissue circulation in the thickest layer of the tissue. Figure 4 This is a schematic diagram of the tissue circulation in the surface elastic mesh region; Figure 5 This is a schematic diagram of the tissue circulation in the underlying elastic mesh region; Figure 6 Schematic diagram of the fabric woven from Jacquard combs of the first and second half machine numbers; Figure 7 A schematic diagram of the fabric woven from Jacquard combs for the third and fourth half machine numbers. Detailed Implementation
[0028] The technical solutions of the embodiments of this application will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the accompanying drawings. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some embodiments of this application, and not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of this application, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort are within the scope of protection of this application.
[0029] In this specification, identical components are represented by the same reference numerals. It should be noted that the terms "front," "rear," "left," "right," "upper," and "lower" used in the following description refer to directions in the accompanying drawings, while the terms "bottom surface," "top surface," "inner," and "outer" refer to directions towards or away from a specific component, respectively. Furthermore, the terms "first" and "second" are used for descriptive purposes only and should not be construed as indicating or implying relative importance or implicitly specifying the number of indicated technical features. Therefore, a feature defined as "first" or "second" may explicitly or implicitly include one or more of that feature. In the description of this specification, "multiple" means two or more.
[0030] Example 1 This invention provides a method for producing double-sided jacquard fabric with the same shape but different colors. The hardware configuration uses a double-needle bed, double-jacquard knitting machine, employing only four and a half-size jacquard combs. That is, it is equipped with two independent jacquard devices, each capable of independently controlling the offset of each jacquard needle on a single comb. On a warp knitting machine, the guide needle density of a comb is usually the same as the needle density on the needle bed (i.e., "full size"). However, this invention uses "half size," meaning a complete jacquard comb is "divided in two," becoming two combs with half the guide needle density. JB2.1 and JB2.2 together constitute a complete jacquard comb using material A. JB3.1 and JB3.2 together constitute a complete jacquard comb using material B. This configuration allows yarns made from the same raw material to work simultaneously with different padding tracks (reverse padding), thus enabling coordinated weaving on the front and back needle beds. This is the basis for forming a double-sided structure, and it achieves double-sided jacquard that would have required more combs in the past with only 4 combs.
[0031] This invention employs a three-needle jacquard technique with reverse-padded yarn. By shifting the Jacquard needles, the yarn can cover the area of up to three needles, creating both a dense weave and a mesh-like structure. This provides a foundation for subsequent knitting of different weave structures.
[0032] Reverse padding: JB2.1 and JB2.2 use the same raw material A, but their basic padding movement trajectories (transverse weave) are opposite. This reverse design is to allow these two "half-combs" to work together perfectly, covering all the needles of the front or back needle bed, and to balance the yarn stress, resulting in a stable fabric. JB3.1 and JB3.2 are similar.
[0033] Fabrics are classified into two types according to the weaving arrangement of odd and even rows on the front and back needle beds: those where both odd and even rows are woven on the front needle bed and those where both odd and even rows are woven on the back needle bed.
[0034] When material A is knitting a loop on a needle in the front needle bed, the loop knitted on the needle directly opposite the back needle bed is formed by material B. At this time, JB2.1 or JB2.2 forms a jacquard pattern on the front needle bed, and JB3.1 or JB3.2 forms a jacquard pattern on the back needle bed. When material B is knitting a loop on a needle in the front needle bed, the loop knitted on the needle directly opposite the back needle bed is formed by material A. At this time, JB2.1 or JB2.2 forms a jacquard pattern on the back needle bed, and JB3.1 or JB3.2 forms a jacquard pattern on the front needle bed.
[0035] This invention employs a basic transverse shift of the Jacquard comb superimposed with Jacquard needle offset signals. The basic transverse shift determines the "baseline" of the comb movement, forming the basis for the loop structure. The Jacquard needle offset signals electromagnetically control whether each Jacquard needle shifts, thus fine-tuning the "baseline." The final yarn-laying action is achieved by superimposing the basic transverse shift and the offset effect. By programming different combinations of offset signals (H / T), the yarn can be looped on the front needle bed or the rear needle bed on the same basic transverse shift. The basic Jacquard weave of four and a half gauges can use open loops, closed loops, or a combination of open and closed loops, ultimately forming a monochromatic, multi-colored jacquard fabric with only one loop on each needle.
[0036] To better understand the core principle of the method of this invention, taking the basic transverse shift organization of JB2.1 / JB3.1 as 0-1-0-1 / 2-1-2-1 / / and the basic transverse shift organization of JB2.2 / JB3.2 as 2-1-2-1 / 0-1-0-1 / / as an example, H represents no offset and T represents offset.
[0037] Comb identity is distinguished by basic transverse movement tissue: 0-1-0-1 / 2-1-2-1 / / Type comb: JB2.1 or JB3.1 2-1-2-1 / 0-1-0-1 / / Type comb: JB2.2 or JB3.2 These two groups of structures have a "reverse padding" relationship, ensuring that the two half combs can work together to cover all stitch lengths and balance yarn tension. The specific sequence of the offset signal determines the structure. Under the determined "comb identity" and "loop position", fine-tuning the offset signal (H / T sequence) can create four different loop connection states—thick, thin, medium-thick, and mesh—while looping, thereby changing the fabric's density, thickness, and permeability.
[0038] Different transverse shift combs, combined with odd and even rows in the front and back needle beds, can produce the following arrangements: Combination 1: The basic transverse shift structure is a 0-1-0-1 / 2-1-2-1 / / comb, with both odd and even rows knitted on the front needle bed. Setting the offset signal to HHTH TTHT can form thick tissue 0-1-1-1 / 3-2-2-2 / / ; Setting the offset signal to HHTH HHHT can form a thin tissue structure 0-1-1-1 / 2-1-2-2 / / . Setting the offset signal to TTTH TTHT can form a secondary thickness structure 1-2-1-1 / 3-2-2-2 / / ; Setting the offset signal to TTTH HHHT can form a mesh structure 1-2-1-1 / 2-1-2-2 / / .
[0039] Combination 2: The basic transverse shift structure is a comb bar with a structure of 0-1-0-1 / 2-1-2-1 / / . Both odd and even transverse rows are knitted on the back needle bed. By setting the offset signal to THHH HTTT, a thick structure of 1-1-0-1 / 2-2-3-2 / / can be formed. Setting the offset signal to THHH HTHH can form a thin tissue structure 1-1-0-1 / 2-2-2-1 / / ; Setting the offset signal to THTT HTTT can form a secondary thickness structure 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-3-2 / / ; Setting the offset signal to THTT HTHH can form a mesh structure 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-2-1 / / .
[0040] Combination 3: The substrate transverse movement structure is a comb with a structure of 2-1-2-1 / 0-1-0-1 / / , and its odd and even rows are woven in the front needle bed. The offset signal is set to TTHT HHTH, which can form a thick structure of 3-2-2-2 / 0-1-1-1 / / . Setting the offset signal to HHHT HHTH can form a thin tissue structure 2-1-2-2 / 0-1-1-1 / / . Setting the offset signal to TTHT TTTH can form a secondary thickness structure 3-2-2-2 / 1-2-1-1 / / ; Setting the offset signal to HHHT TTTH can form a mesh structure 2-1-2-2 / 1-2-1-1 / / .
[0041] Combination 4: The substrate transverse movement structure is a comb with a structure of 2-1-2-1 / 0-1-0-1 / / , and its odd and even rows are woven in the back needle bed. The offset signal is set to HTTT THHH, which can form a thick structure of 2-2-3-2 / 1-1-0-1 / / . Setting the offset signal to HTHH THHH allows for the formation of a thin tissue structure 2-2-2-1 / 1-1-0-1 / / . Setting the offset signal to HTTT THTT can form a secondary thickness structure 2-2-3-2 / 1-1-1-2 / / . Setting the offset signal to HTHH THTT can form a mesh structure 2-2-2-1 / 1-1-1-2 / / .
[0042] Example 2 To better illustrate the practical application of the method of the present invention, the specific embodiment is as follows: 1. Equipment and process parameter preparation Machine Model: A Karl Mayer RDPJ4 / 2 double-needle-bed double-jaccha warp knitting machine was selected. This machine has four jacchaeus guide bars (JB2.1, JB2.2, JB3.1, JB3.2) and two ground guide bars (GB1, GB4, not used in this embodiment). Machine Size: E24 (i.e., 24 needles per inch). Machine Width: 138 inches. Loop Density: 13 rows / cm (cpc). Loop Breaker Distance: 1.5mm, ensuring uniformity and stability of the loops on the front and rear needle beds. Warping Parameters: Each jacchaeus guide bar (JB2.1, JB2.2, JB3.1, JB3.2) has 276 warp threads, and each guide bar uses 6 yarn feeders to ensure uniform and continuous yarn tension.
[0043] 2. Yarn configuration and warp threading Raw material A: 100D / 48f polyester low elasticity yarn with a semi-luster effect, used in Jacquard combs JB2.1 and JB2.2.
[0044] Raw material B: 150D / 48f polyester cationic low elastic yarn, with cationic dyeable properties, used in Jacquard combs JB3.1 and JB3.2.
[0045] Depending on actual needs, raw materials with different gloss levels such as glossy, semi-gloss, and matte, different colors, and visual combinations such as reflective and ordinary yarns can be used. This embodiment does not constitute a limitation on the materials.
[0046] Method of passing through the warp: To adapt to the weaving requirements of different weave structures (such as thick weave, thin weave, mesh weave, etc.), and considering the basic transverse shift structure of each guide bar and its synergistic relationship in weaving, the warp threading of the first and second half-machine sizes of Jacquard can be combined in the following ways according to the Jacquard padding number: one thread and one gap, one gap and one thread, or one gap and one thread and one gap, or both one thread and one gap, or both one gap and one thread; the warp threading of the third and fourth half-machine sizes of Jacquard can be one thread and one gap, or one gap and one thread, or both one thread and one gap, or both one gap and one thread.
[0047] In this embodiment, JB2.1 and JB2.2 adopt a reverse-padded yarn one-through-one-empty and one-empty-one-through configuration, and JB3.1 and JB3.2 also adopt a reverse-padded yarn one-through-one-empty and one-empty-one-through configuration.
[0048] 3. Basic Organizational Structure of Jakka JB2.1 and JB3.1: The basic transverse shift structure is 0-1-0-1 / 2-1-2-1 / / .
[0049] JB2.2 and JB3.2: The basic transverse movement structure is 2-1-2-1 / 0-1-0-1 / / .
[0050] Floral design and Jacquard signal configuration Use professional Jacquard design software to draw the jacquard pattern. Divide the pattern into different areas according to design requirements, such as... Figure 1 As shown, specify the coil exposure color and weave structure style (e.g., thick weave, thin weave, mesh weave, medium-thick weave) for each area. Export the weaving file and weave on the machine. After weaving, set, wash, dye, and finish.
[0051] This embodiment focuses on illustrating the Jacquard signal configuration in different tissue regions: Area 1 (Thick Layered Area): Target effect: The surface layer displays the color of material A (100D polyester low-elasticity yarn), and the bottom layer displays the color of material B (150D cationic polyester low-elasticity yarn), with no connection between the two layers, forming a double-layer composite structure.
[0052] Jacquard signal configuration: JB2.1 and JB2.2 knit the thicker surface area of the front needle bed, with the tissue circulation as follows: Figure 2 As shown, JB3.1 and JB3.2 knit the thicker area of the bottom layer in the back needle bed, with the tissue circulation as follows. Figure 3 As shown, JB2.1 (Front Needle Bed · A Raw Material): Using offset signal HHTH TTHT (corresponding color number 37), a surface thick tissue 0-1-1-1 / 3-2-2-2 / / is formed.
[0053] JB2.2 (Anterior Needle Bed · A Raw Material): Using the offset signal TTHT HHTH (corresponding color number 36), a surface thick tissue 3-2-2-2 / 0-1-1-1 / / is formed.
[0054] JB3.1 (Back Needle Bed · B Raw Material): Using the offset signal THHH HTTT (corresponding color number 10), a thick underlying tissue 1-1-0-1 / 2-2-3-2 / / is formed.
[0055] JB3.2 (Back Needle Bed · B Raw Material): Using the offset signal HTTT THHH (corresponding color number 11), a thick underlying tissue 2-2-3-2 / 1-1-0-1 / / is formed.
[0056] With the above signal configuration, material A is knitted only on the front needle bed, and material B is knitted only on the back needle bed. The two layers are knitted independently, achieving a thick structure with "layered and unconnected" knitting.
[0057] Area 2 (thick area connecting front and back) Target effect: The surface layer is woven from material B (150D / 48f polyester cationic low-elasticity yarn), exhibiting the color of material B. The bottom layer is woven from material A (100D / 48f polyester low-elasticity yarn), exhibiting the color of material A. The surface and bottom layers are interconnected by loops in each weave row, forming a unified, thick structure without any gaps or layers.
[0058] Jacquard signal configuration: JB3.1 and JB3.2 knit the thicker surface area of the front needle bed, with the tissue circulation as follows: Figure 2 As shown, JB2.1 and JB2.2 knit the thicker area of the bottom layer in the back needle bed, with the tissue circulation as follows. Figure 3 As shown.
[0059] JB3.1 (Anterior Needle Bed · B Raw Material): Using offset signal HHTH TTHT (corresponding color number 37), a surface thick tissue 0-1-1-1 / 3-2-2-2 / / is formed.
[0060] JB3.2 (Anterior Needle Bed · B Raw Material): Using the offset signal TTHT HHTH (corresponding color number 36), a surface thick tissue 3-2-2-2 / 0-1-1-1 / / is formed.
[0061] JB2.1 (Back Needle Bed · A Raw Material): Using the offset signal THHH HTTT (corresponding color number 10), a thick underlying tissue 1-1-0-1 / 2-2-3-2 / / is formed.
[0062] JB2.2 (Back Needle Bed · A Raw Material): Using the offset signal HTTT THHH (corresponding color number 11), a thick underlying tissue 2-2-3-2 / 1-1-0-1 / / is formed.
[0063] The top and bottom layers are tightly interlocked by loops in each weave row, making the fabric a strong whole.
[0064] The “1st Layer Thick Region” and the “2nd Connection Thick Region” use the exact same four sets of core weaving instructions (offset signals and color codes), but by changing the identity of the comb that executes these instructions, the transformation from “layer” to “connection” is achieved.
[0065] Area 3 (Layered elastic mesh area) Target effect: The surface layer is woven from material A (100D / 48f polyester low-elasticity yarn), exhibiting the color of material A. The bottom layer is woven from material B (150D / 48f polyester cationic low-elasticity yarn), exhibiting the color of material B. The surface and bottom layers are woven independently without interlocking loops, forming a double-layer structure with an air layer in the middle. Each layer itself is woven from three structures—thin weave, mesh weave, and medium-thick weave—in a specific cycle, giving the area overall elasticity and rich textural variations.
[0066] Jacquard signal configuration: JB2.1 and JB2.2 knit the surface elastic mesh area in the front needle bed, with the tissue circulation as follows: Figure 4 As shown, JB3.1 and JB3.2 knit the bottom layer elastic mesh area in the back needle bed, with the tissue circulation as follows: Figure 5 As shown.
[0067] JB2.1 (Anterior Needle Bed, Raw Material A): Using offset signals HHTH and HHHT (corresponding to color number 4), a thin surface tissue 0-1-1-1 / 2-1-2-2 / / is formed.
[0068] Using the offset signal TTTH HHHT (corresponding to color number 1), a surface mesh structure 1-2-1-1 / 2-1-2-2 / / is formed.
[0069] Using the offset signal TTTH TTHT (corresponding to color number 24), a surface layer thick structure 1-2-1-1 / 3-2-2-2 / / is formed.
[0070] JB2.2 (Front Needle Bed, Raw Material A): Using the offset signal TTHT TTTH (corresponding to color number 29), a surface layer thick structure 3-2-2-2 / 1-2-1-1 / / is formed.
[0071] Using the offset signal HHHT TTTH (corresponding to color number 40), a surface mesh structure 2-1-2-2 / 1-2-1-1 / / is formed.
[0072] Using the offset signal HHHT HHTH (corresponding to color number 25), a thin surface tissue 2-1-2-2 / 0-1-1-1 / / is formed.
[0073] JB3.1 (Rear Needle Bed, Material B): Using the offset signal THHH HTHH (corresponding to color number 19), a thin underlying structure 1-1-0-1 / 2-2-2-1 / / is formed.
[0074] Using the offset signal THTT HTHH (corresponding to color number 55), the bottom layer mesh structure 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-2-1 / / is formed.
[0075] Using the offset signal THTT HTTT (corresponding to color number 49), a bottom layer thick structure 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-3-2 / / is formed.
[0076] JB3.2 (Rear Needle Bed, Material B): Using the offset signal HTTT THTT (corresponding to color number 50), a bottom layer thick structure 2-2-3-2 / 1-1-1-2 / / is formed.
[0077] Using the offset signal HTHH THTT (corresponding to color number 54), the bottom layer mesh structure 2-2-2-1 / 1-1-1-2 / / is formed.
[0078] Using the offset signal HTHH THHH (corresponding to color number 13), a thin underlying structure 2-2-2-1 / 1-1-0-1 / / is formed.
[0079] Within each layer (top or bottom), thin weave, mesh weave, and medium-thickness weave alternate according to the aforementioned cyclical pattern. This periodic change in structural tension allows the looser portions of the fabric to stretch first when subjected to external force; after the force is released, the tighter portions provide restoring force, thus giving this area excellent bidirectional elasticity. A "mesh-dominated" stage is specifically included in the cycle, in which both the preceding and following layers utilize mesh weave signals to form distinct breathable openings, ensuring an overall cool and permeable feel in this area.
[0080] Area 4 (elastic mesh area connecting front and back) Target effect: The surface layer is woven from material B (150D / 48f polyester cationic low-elasticity yarn), exhibiting the color of material B. The bottom layer is woven from material A (100D / 48f polyester low-elasticity yarn), exhibiting the color of material A. The surface and bottom layers are interconnected by loops in each weave row, forming an integrated structure. This integrated structure itself is woven from three structures—thin weave, mesh weave, and medium-thick weave—in a specific cycle, thus giving the connected whole elasticity and breathable perforations.
[0081] Jacquard signal configuration: JB3.1 and JB3.2 knit the surface elastic mesh area in the front needle bed, with the tissue circulation as follows: Figure 4 As shown, JB2.1 and JB2.2 knit the bottom layer elastic mesh area in the back needle bed, and the tissue circulation is as follows. Figure 5 As shown.
[0082] JB3.1 (Anterior Needle Bed, Material B): Using offset signals HHTH and HHHT (corresponding to color number 4), a thin surface tissue 0-1-1-1 / 2-1-2-2 / / is formed.
[0083] Using the offset signal TTTH HHHT (corresponding to color number 1), a surface mesh structure 1-2-1-1 / 2-1-2-2 / / is formed.
[0084] Using the offset signal TTTH TTHT (corresponding to color number 24), a surface layer thick structure 1-2-1-1 / 3-2-2-2 / / is formed.
[0085] JB3.2 (Front Needle Bed, Material B): Using the offset signal TTHT TTTH (corresponding to color number 29), a surface layer thick structure 3-2-2-2 / 1-2-1-1 / / is formed.
[0086] Using the offset signal HHHT TTTH (corresponding to color number 40), a surface mesh structure 2-1-2-2 / 1-2-1-1 / / is formed.
[0087] Using the offset signal HHHT HHTH (corresponding to color number 25), a thin surface tissue 2-1-2-2 / 0-1-1-1 / / is formed.
[0088] JB2.1 (Rear Needle Bed, Raw Material A): Using the offset signal THHH HTHH (corresponding to color number 19), a thin underlying structure 1-1-0-1 / 2-2-2-1 / / is formed.
[0089] Using the offset signal THTT HTHH (corresponding to color number 55), the bottom layer mesh structure 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-2-1 / / is formed.
[0090] Using the offset signal THTT HTTT (corresponding to color number 49), a bottom layer thick structure 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-3-2 / / is formed.
[0091] JB2.2 (Rear Needle Bed, Raw Material A): Using the offset signal HTTT THTT (corresponding to color number 50), a bottom layer thick structure 2-2-3-2 / 1-1-1-2 / / is formed.
[0092] Using the offset signal HTHH THTT (corresponding to color number 54), the bottom layer mesh structure 2-2-2-1 / 1-1-1-2 / / is formed.
[0093] Using the offset signal HTHH THHH (corresponding to color number 13), a thin underlying structure 2-2-2-1 / 1-1-0-1 / / is formed.
[0094] The yarns, looped together on the front and back needle beds, interlock and overlap in each row, coordinating with corresponding lateral movements to form a strong overall connection. The internal structure of this connection also follows a cyclical variation of thin, mesh, and slightly thicker weaves. This design gives the joined single-layer fabric inherent elasticity: the periodic variation in structural density provides a mechanical basis for stretching and recovery. The mesh weave still creates effective ventilation openings within the joined structure, achieving good air permeability even in the joined state.
[0095] In the embodiments disclosed in this application, the terms "installation," "connection," "linking," and "fixing" should be interpreted broadly. For example, "connection" can be a fixed connection, a detachable connection, or an integral connection; "linking" can be a direct connection or an indirect connection through an intermediate medium. Those skilled in the art can understand the specific meaning of the above terms in the embodiments disclosed in this invention according to the specific circumstances.
[0096] The above description is only a preferred embodiment of this application. It should be noted that for those skilled in the art, several improvements and modifications can be made without departing from the principle of this application, and these improvements and modifications should also be considered within the scope of protection of this application.
Claims
1. A method for producing a same-form different-color double jacquard fabric, characterized in that, The double-faced jacquard fabric is produced on a double needle bed double-jacquard machine, is knitted by four half-gauge jacquard bars, the first half-gauge jacquard bar JB2.1 and the second half-gauge jacquard bar JB2.2 use the same raw material A, the third half-gauge jacquard bar JB3.1 and the fourth half-gauge jacquard bar JB3.2 use the same raw material B, a three-needle reverse padding jacquard method is adopted, the fabric is knitted on the front needle bed according to the odd and even weft knits or is knitted on the back needle bed according to the odd and even weft knits, the basic horizontal movement of the jacquard bar is superimposed on the jacquard needle offset signal, each needle on the front and back needle bed forms only one loop on each knitting weft knits, and thus the double-faced jacquard fabric with the same pattern profile on the front and back sides but different colors of the raw material A and the raw material B is knitted.
2. The method of claim 1, wherein the method further comprises the steps of: The fabric is knitted on the front needle bed according to the odd and even weft knits or is knitted on the back needle bed according to the odd and even weft knits, and includes: When the raw material A is knitted into a loop on the front needle bed, a loop is knitted by the raw material B on the back needle bed opposite to the front needle bed, at this time, the JB2.1 or the JB2.2 knits a loop on the front needle bed, and the JB3.1 or the JB3.2 knits a loop on the back needle bed; When the raw material B is knitted into a loop on the front needle bed, a loop is knitted by the raw material A on the back needle bed opposite to the front needle bed, at this time, the JB2.1 or the JB2.2 knits a loop on the back needle bed, and the JB3.1 or the JB3.2 knits a loop on the front needle bed.
3. The method of claim 2, wherein the method further comprises the steps of: The basic horizontal movement of the JB2.1 and the JB3.1 is 0-1-0-1 / 2-1-2-1 / / , and the basic horizontal movement of the JB2.2 and the JB3.2 is 2-1-2-1 / 0-1-0-1 / / , the offset signal H represents no offset, and the offset signal T represents offset, at least one of thick, thin, sub-thick and mesh organizations is formed in the jacquard bars through different offset signal combinations.
4. The double-faced jacquard fabric production method according to claim 3, characterized in that, when the horizontal movement of the bar is 0-1-0-1 / 2-1-2-1 / / , the odd and even weft knits are knitted on the front needle bed: when the offset signal is HHTH TTHT, the bar forms a thick organization, and the padding code of the bar is 0-1-1-1 / 3-2-2-2 / / ; when the offset signal is HHTH HHHT, the bar forms a thin organization, and the padding code of the bar is 0-1-1-1 / 2-1-2-2 / / ; when the offset signal is TTTH TTHT, the bar forms a sub-thick organization, and the padding code of the bar is 1-2-1-1 / 3-2-2-2 / / ; when the offset signal is TTTH HHHT, the bar forms a mesh organization, and the padding code of the bar is 1-2-1-1 / 2-1-2-2 / / ; when the horizontal movement of the bar is 0-1-0-1 / 2-1-2-1 / / , the odd and even weft knits are knitted on the back needle bed: when the offset signal is THHH HTTT, the bar forms a thick organization, and the padding code of the bar is 1-1-0-1 / 2-2-3-2 / / ; when the offset signal is THHH HTHH, the bar forms a thin organization, and the padding code of the bar is 1-1-0-1 / 2-2-2-1 / / ; When the offset signal is THTT HTHH, the guide bar forms a mesh organization, and the inlay code is 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-2-1 / / ; When the offset signal is THTT HTHH, the guide bar forms a mesh organization, and the inlay code is 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-2-1 / / ; When the offset signal is THTT HTHH, the guide bar forms a mesh organization, and the inlay code is 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-2-1 / / ; When the offset signal is THTT HTHH, the guide bar forms a mesh organization, and the inlay code is 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-2-1 / / ; When the offset signal is THTT HTHH, the guide bar forms a mesh organization, and the inlay code is 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-2-1 / / ; When the offset signal is THTT HTHH, the guide bar forms a mesh organization, and the inlay code is 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-2-1 / / ; When the offset signal is THTT HTHH, the guide bar forms a mesh organization, and the inlay code is 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-2-1 / / ; When the offset signal is THTT HTHH, the guide bar forms a mesh organization, and the inlay code is 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-2-1 / / ; When the offset signal is THTT HTHH, the guide bar forms a mesh organization, and the inlay code is 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-2-1 / / ; When the offset signal is THTT HTHH, the guide bar forms a mesh organization, and the inlay code is 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-2-1 / / ; When the offset signal is THTT HTHH, the guide bar forms a mesh organization, and the inlay code is 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-2-1 / / ; When the offset signal is THTT HTHH, the guide bar forms a mesh organization, and the inlay code is 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-2-1 / / .
5. The production method of the same-form different-color double-sided jacquard fabric according to claim 1, wherein the first and second half-gauge jacquard guide bars adopt one-in-one-out or one-out-one-in, or both one-in-one-out or one-out-one-in. The third and fourth half-gauge jacquard guide bars adopt one-in-one-out or one-out-one-in, or both one-in-one-out or one-out-one-in. The raw material A yarn is knitted to form a surface layer, and the raw material B yarn is knitted to form a bottom layer, which are knitted independently and are not connected by yarn interweaving, forming a double-layer composite structure with an intermediate air spacing layer; or the surface layer and the bottom layer are connected together by yarn interweaving in the knitting row, forming an integrated composite structure.
6. The method of claim 1, wherein the method further comprises the steps of: The four half-gauge jacquard guide bars each adopt a basic transposition organization selected from open loop organization, closed loop organization or a mixed organization of the two.
7. The method of claim 1, wherein the method further comprises the steps of: The raw material A and the raw material B are knitted on a double-needle-bed double-jacquard warp knitting machine at one time, and at least include:
8. The isomeric double-sided jacquard fabric produced according to the method of any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that, Layered thick area: the surface layer is knitted by thick structure of yarn of raw material A, the bottom layer is knitted by thick structure of yarn of raw material B, and the surface layer and the bottom layer are not connected by yarn interlacing, forming a double-layer structure with air spacing layer; Connected thick area: the surface layer is knitted by thick structure of yarn of raw material B, the bottom layer is knitted by thick structure of yarn of raw material A, and the surface layer and the bottom layer are connected by yarn interlacing in each knitting course, forming an integrated thickened structure; Layered elastic mesh area: the surface layer is knitted by yarn of raw material A, the bottom layer is knitted by yarn of raw material B, and the surface layer and the bottom layer are not connected by yarn interlacing; the structure of each of the surface layer and the bottom layer is composed of thin structure, mesh structure and sub-thick structure arranged alternately according to a predetermined cycle, forming a double-layer elastic and breathable structure with air spacing layer; Connected elastic mesh area: the surface layer is knitted by yarn of raw material B, the bottom layer is knitted by yarn of raw material A, and the surface layer and the bottom layer are connected by yarn interlacing in each knitting course; the structure of each of the surface layer and the bottom layer is composed of thin structure, mesh structure and sub-thick structure arranged alternately according to a predetermined cycle, forming an integrated elastic and breathable structure.
9. The same-form different-color double-sided jacquard fabric according to claim 8, wherein the thick structure is a stitch number code of 0-1-1-1 / 3-2-2-2 / / , 1-1-0-1 / 2-2-3-2 / / , 3-2-2-2 / 0-1-1-1 / / or 2-2-3-2 / 1-1-0-1 / / ; the thin structure is a stitch number code of 0-1-1-1 / 2-1-2-2 / / or 1-1-0-1 / 2-2-2-1 / / ; the mesh structure is a stitch number code of 1-2-1-1 / 2-1-2-2 / / or 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-2-1 / / ; and the sub-thick structure is a stitch number code of 1-2-1-1 / 3-2-2-2 / / or 1-1-1-2 / 2-2-3-2 / / .
10. The same-form different-color double-sided jacquard fabric according to claim 8, wherein the raw material A is 100D / 48f polyester low-elasticity filament, and the raw material B is 150D / 48f polyester cationic low-elasticity filament.