High-wear-resistance anti-pilling sea-island filament suede fabric and preparation method thereof
By introducing a high-elastic spandex filament base layer and a dense FDY island silk plush layer into island silk suede, combined with specific processing techniques, the problems of insufficient abrasion resistance and pilling resistance of island silk suede have been solved, improving the performance and environmental friendliness of the fabric, achieving recyclability, and meeting the requirements of green development.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2026-01-26
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-07
AI Technical Summary
Existing island silk suede lacks abrasion resistance and anti-pilling properties. After brushing, the microfiber is prone to breakage, leading to pilling, which affects the appearance and service life. In addition, it is not environmentally friendly and is difficult to recycle, which violates the requirements of green and sustainable development.
An elastic base fabric layer made of high-elastic spandex yarn is formed with FDY island yarn that has undergone alkali reduction and fiber opening treatment to form a dense pile layer. Combined with specific weaving, alkali reduction, napping and brushing treatment and functional finishing, a short pile layer is formed. A water-based polyurethane breathable coating is applied to the back, and the process flow is controlled to improve performance and environmental protection.
It significantly improves the fabric's abrasion resistance and pilling resistance, enhances elasticity and shape retention, provides excellent moisture absorption and breathability as well as a soft touch, while reducing environmental pollution and achieving fabric recyclability, thus meeting the requirements of green development.
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Figure CN121802606A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention relates to the field of island silk suede processing technology, specifically to a highly wear-resistant and anti-pilling island silk suede and its preparation method. Background Technology
[0002] Sea Island Silk Suede is a type of suede fabric. Sea Island Silk is not actually a single type of sea island silk, but rather a composite ultra-fine blended fiber network made by combining ordinary sea island silk with high-shrinkage silk and then processing it into a network. The island fibers formed by sea island silk are easier to break than other fibers, thus producing many delicate and even tufts of fluff on the surface of the fabric.
[0003] The existing island silk suede has certain shortcomings in its preparation process: 1. Insufficient abrasion resistance and anti-pilling properties: After brushing, the microfibers exposed on the surface are easily broken and detached due to friction, causing the fabric to pill, affecting its appearance and service life. Poor elasticity and shape retention: Most products lack elasticity and are prone to wrinkles, affecting the fit and aesthetics of the garment.
[0004] 2. Poor environmental performance: Traditional alkali reduction or finishing processes may generate more pollution, and the fabrics are difficult to recycle, which does not meet the current requirements for green and sustainable development. Summary of the Invention
[0005] The purpose of this invention is to provide a highly abrasion-resistant and anti-pilling island silk suede and its preparation method, in order to solve the problems mentioned in the background art, such as insufficient abrasion resistance and anti-pilling properties, the fact that the ultra-fine fibers exposed on the surface after brushing are easily broken and shed due to friction, resulting in pilling of the fabric, affecting its appearance and service life, poor elasticity and shape retention, with most products lacking elasticity and prone to wrinkles, affecting the fit and aesthetics of clothing, and poor environmental performance, as traditional alkali reduction or finishing processes may generate more pollution, and the fabric is difficult to recycle, which does not meet the current requirements of green and sustainable development.
[0006] To achieve the above objectives, the present invention provides the following technical solution: A high abrasion-resistant and anti-pilling island-island suede fabric and its preparation method are disclosed. The suede fabric includes an elastic base fabric layer composed of high-elasticity spandex yarn, and a dense pile layer formed on the elastic base fabric layer by FDY island-island yarn that has undergone alkali reduction fiber opening treatment.
[0007] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, a highly abrasion-resistant and anti-pilling island-type silk suede and its preparation method comprises the following steps: S1: Raw material preparation: FDY island yarn is used as the weft yarn, and high-elasticity spandex yarn and low-elasticity polyester yarn are combined as the warp yarn; S2: Weaving: Weaving warp and weft yarns together to form a greige fabric with loops or long floats; S3: Alkali reduction treatment: The fabric is subjected to alkali reduction treatment to open the FDY island yarn into ultrafine fiber bundles. S4: Staining and finishing; S5: Ruffing and brushing treatment.
[0008] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in step S2, the weaving is carried out on a double needle bed warp knitting machine or a high-speed water jet loom, and the fabric structure is a weft-knitted weft-inserted structure, a warp-knitted chain structure, or a satin structure.
[0009] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in step S3, the alkali reduction treatment conditions are: sodium hydroxide solution concentration 8-12 g / L, treatment temperature 85-95℃, and treatment time 20-40 minutes.
[0010] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in step S5, the napping and abrasioning process is performed using a multi-roller napping machine to perform multiple low-tension napping and abrasioning processes on the front side of the fabric to form a short and dense pile layer.
[0011] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, between or after steps S4 and S5, step S6 is further included: functional finishing, wherein the functional finishing includes antistatic finishing and / or wear-resistant finishing.
[0012] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, step S6 is followed by step S7: shaping and coating, that is, applying a water-based polyurethane breathable coating to the back of the fabric and shaping it at a temperature of 140-150°C.
[0013] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the high-elasticity spandex yarn and the low-elasticity polyester yarn are combined through an air network or a twisting method.
[0014] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the FDY island yarn has a specification of 105D / 288f and an island ratio of 30 / 70.
[0015] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the high-elasticity spandex yarn has a specification of 20D-70D.
[0016] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are: 1. In this invention, the suede fabric has a unique structure and excellent performance. The elastic base fabric layer composed of high-elastic spandex yarn provides the fabric with excellent elastic recovery rate and wrinkle resistance. The dense, short, and firmly rooted pile layer formed through a specific process significantly improves the fabric's abrasion resistance and pilling resistance. At the same time, the microfiber structure gives the fabric good moisture absorption and breathability as well as a soft suede feel. In addition, the manufacturing method is controllable and the quality is stable. The whole process control, from raw material specifications and weaving structure to alkali reduction and napping process, ensures the consistency and stability of product performance, making it suitable for large-scale production.
[0017] 2. In this invention, the suede fabric is made in a green and environmentally friendly manner, using FDY island yarn. Its alkali reduction process mainly dissolves soluble components, and the resulting wastewater COD load is lower than that of traditional all-polyester alkali reduction, making it relatively easy to treat. The resulting fabric is mainly composed of polyester microfiber and spandex, which facilitates the chemical depolymerization and recovery of polyester components, thus achieving the recyclability of the fabric. Attached Figure Description
[0018] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of the overall method flow structure of the present invention. Detailed Implementation
[0019] The technical solutions of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art based on the embodiments of the present invention without creative effort are within the scope of protection of the present invention.
[0020] For examples, please refer to Figure 1 The present invention provides a technical solution: A high-abrasion-resistant and anti-pilling island-sea suede fabric and its preparation method, comprising a suede fabric, an elastic base fabric layer composed of high-elasticity spandex yarn, and a dense pile layer formed on the elastic base fabric layer by FDY island-sea yarn after alkali reduction and fiber opening treatment; preparation method: S1: Raw material preparation: FDY island-sea yarn is used as the weft yarn, and high-elasticity spandex yarn and low-elasticity polyester yarn are combined as the warp yarn; S2: Weaving: The warp and weft yarns are woven to form a greige fabric with a loop or long float structure; S3: Alkali reduction treatment: The greige fabric is subjected to alkali reduction treatment to open the FDY island-sea yarn into ultra-fine fiber bundles; S4: Dyeing and finishing; S5: In the raising and brushing treatment, step S2 involves weaving on a double-needle bed warp knitting machine or a high-speed water jet loom, with the fabric structure being weft-knitted weft-inserted structure, warp-knitted chain structure, or satin structure. In step S3, the alkali reduction treatment conditions are: sodium hydroxide solution concentration 8-12 g / L, treatment temperature 85-95℃, and treatment time 20-40 minutes. In step S5, the raising and brushing treatment uses a multi-roller raising machine to perform multiple low-tension raising and brushing processes on the front side of the fabric to form a short and dense pile layer. Steps S4 and S5... Between or after S5, step S6 is also included: functional finishing, which includes antistatic finishing and / or abrasion-resistant finishing. Step S6 is followed by step S7: setting and coating, which involves applying a water-based polyurethane breathable coating to the back of the fabric and setting it at a temperature of 140-150℃. High-elasticity spandex yarn and low-elasticity polyester yarn are combined through an air network or twisting method. The specifications of FDY island yarn are 105D / 288f, the island ratio is 30 / 70, and the specifications of high-elasticity spandex yarn are 20D-70D.
[0021] Tests have shown that the finished fabric has the following properties: elastic recovery rate (warp) >85%, Martindale abrasion resistance (front) >40,000 times, anti-pilling grade (friction method) reaches level 4 or above, and it is also soft to the touch, has good drape, and breathability >120mm / s.
[0022] The dense, short, and firmly bonded pile layer formed through a specific process significantly improves the fabric's abrasion resistance and pilling resistance. At the same time, the microfiber structure gives the fabric excellent moisture absorption and breathability, as well as a soft suede feel. Suede fabric is environmentally friendly, using FDY island yarn. Its alkali reduction process mainly dissolves soluble components, resulting in a lower COD load in the wastewater compared to traditional all-polyester alkali reduction, making it relatively easy to treat. The resulting fabric is mainly composed of polyester microfiber and spandex, which facilitates the chemical depolymerization and recovery of polyester components, thus achieving fabric recyclability.
[0023] Workflow of this invention: When using the high abrasion-resistant and anti-pilling island silk suede and its preparation method designed in this scheme, the above-mentioned warp and weft yarns are prepared and woven on a high-speed water jet loom using a five-end satin weave. The weft yarn floats on the front of the fabric as a long float to form a greige fabric. The greige fabric is placed in a 10g / L NaOH solution and treated at 90℃ for 30 minutes to perform alkali reduction fiber opening. After treatment, the fabric is thoroughly washed until neutral. Disperse dyes are then used for high-temperature, high-pressure dyeing at 120℃. Following dyeing, a softening treatment is performed. A 24-roller napping machine is used, adjusting the relative speed and tension between the needle cloth rollers and the fabric. The front side is napped three times and lightly brushed twice to form dense nap approximately 0.5mm long. Antistatic and abrasion-resistant finishing agents are then applied, with a liquid retention rate of 70%. A layer of water-based polyurethane slurry is evenly coated onto the back of the fabric using a scraper. Finally, the fabric is baked and set at 145℃ for 1.5 minutes to obtain the finished fabric. Testing shows that this finished fabric has the following properties: elastic recovery rate >85%, Martindale abrasion resistance >40,000 cycles, anti-pilling grade (friction method) of 4 or higher, soft hand feel, good drape, and air permeability >120mm / s.
[0024] All standard parts used in this application can be purchased from the market. The specific connection methods of each part adopt conventional methods such as bolts, rivets, and welding that are mature in the prior art. The machinery, parts and equipment adopt conventional models in the prior art and are also general components, which are common knowledge in this field.
[0025] Although embodiments of the invention have been shown and described, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made to these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined by the appended claims and their equivalents.
Claims
1. A high-abrasion-resistant and anti-pilling island-type suede fabric, comprising suede fabric, characterized in that: The suede fabric consists of an elastic base fabric layer composed of high-elasticity spandex yarns, and a dense plush layer formed on the elastic base fabric layer by FDY island yarns that have undergone alkali reduction fiber opening treatment.
2. A method for preparing a highly abrasion-resistant and anti-pilling island-type suede made of island-type silk as described in claim 1, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: S1: Raw material preparation: FDY island yarn is used as the weft yarn, and high-elasticity spandex yarn and low-elasticity polyester yarn are combined as the warp yarn; S2: Weaving: Weaving warp and weft yarns together to form a greige fabric with loops or long floats; S3: Alkali reduction treatment: The fabric is subjected to alkali reduction treatment to open the FDY island yarn into ultrafine fiber bundles. S4: Staining and finishing; S5: Ruffing and brushing treatment.
3. The method for preparing high abrasion-resistant and anti-pilling island-type suede fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that, In step S2, weaving is carried out on a double needle bed warp knitting machine or a high-speed water jet loom, and the fabric structure is a weft-knitted weft-inserted structure, a warp-knitted chain structure, or a satin structure.
4. The method for preparing high abrasion-resistant and anti-pilling island-type suede fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that, In step S3, the alkali reduction treatment conditions are: sodium hydroxide solution concentration 8-12 g / L, treatment temperature 85-95℃, and treatment time 20-40 minutes.
5. The method for preparing high abrasion-resistant and anti-pilling island-type suede fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that, In step S5, the napping and abrasioning process is performed using a multi-roller napping machine to repeatedly nap and abrade the front side of the fabric under low tension to form a short and dense pile layer.
6. The method for preparing high abrasion-resistant and anti-pilling island-type suede fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that, Between or after step S4 and S5, step S6 is also included: functional finishing, which includes antistatic finishing and / or wear-resistant finishing.
7. The method for preparing high abrasion-resistant and anti-pilling island-type suede fabric according to claim 6, characterized in that, Step S6 is followed by step S7: shaping and coating, that is, applying a water-based polyurethane breathable coating to the back of the fabric and shaping it at a temperature of 140-150°C.
8. The method for preparing a high abrasion-resistant and anti-pilling island-type suede fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that, The high-elasticity spandex yarn and the low-elasticity polyester yarn are combined through an air network or twisting method.
9. The method for preparing high abrasion-resistant and anti-pilling island-type suede fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that, The FDY island yarn has specifications of 105D / 288f and an island ratio of 30 / 70.
10. The method for preparing a high abrasion-resistant and anti-pilling island-type suede fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that, The specifications of the high-elasticity spandex yarn are 20D-70D.