Single-layer woven fabric

Abstract

A single-layer woven fabric is disclosed. On one side of the woven fabric, concave parts and convex parts in the warp direction and / or the weft direction are alternately distributed, the width W of each convex part is 150-1200 microns, the ratio K of the height H to the width W of each convex part is 0.4-2.0, and the relational expression is K = H (microns) / W (microns). The single-layer woven fabric has an excellent knitting-imitating appearance style, is good in elasticity, good in snagging resistance, excellent in wrinkle resistance and comfortable to wear, and can be widely applied to manufacturing of business shirts, long skirts, coats and trousers.

Description

A single-layer woven fabric Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the field of textiles and relates to a single-layer woven fabric. Background Art

[0002] Due to its unique coil structure, knitted fabrics have poor dimensional stability, are easily deformed under stress, and have a weak sense of crispness. This has limited their development in certain clothing areas, such as business shirts, long skirts, and trousers. To this end, people have made a lot of efforts.

[0003] For example, patent document CN110241496A discloses a woven imitation knitted fabric and a weaving method thereof. By selecting yarns and designing the structure, a soft, thick, and fluffy imitation knitted fabric is produced. However, due to the coarse yarns used and the double-layer structure, the fabric is thick, soft, and lacks elasticity.

[0004] For example, patent document Tokukai 2024-136879 discloses a breathable elastic fabric and clothing containing the fabric. The warp yarn is a blended yarn of cotton and polyester staple fibers, and the weft yarn is a polyester composite yarn. The warp yarn is arranged in 1 to 2 columns with 3 continuous warp floats floating above the weft yarn, and the weft yarn is arranged in 1 to 2 columns with 4 continuous parts sinking below the warp yarn. This structure obtains an elastic fabric with good breathability, but the fabric has a weak imitation knitting style, and its snagging and pilling resistance need to be improved. Summary of the Invention

[0005] The object of the present invention is to provide a single-layer woven fabric which has an excellent imitation knitted appearance, good elasticity, good anti-snagging property, good anti-wrinkle property and is comfortable to wear.

[0006] The technical solution of the present invention is:

[0007] The single-layer woven fabric of the present invention has concave portions and convex portions alternately distributed in the warp and / or weft directions on one side of the woven fabric, the width W of the convex portions is 150 to 1200 μm, and the ratio K of the height H to the width W of the convex portions is 0.4 to 2.0, and the relationship K is K = H (μm) / W (μm).

[0008] Preferably, in a complete weave, the plain weave and the twill weave, or the plain weave and the satin weave, are alternately arranged in the weft direction of the woven fabric, and the number of warp yarns of the plain weave is x, the number of warp yarns of the twill weave is y1, and the number of warp yarns of the satin weave is y2, and x and y1, and x and y2 respectively satisfy the following relationship:

[0009] 1.0≤y1 / x≤6.0, 1.0≤y2 / x≤6.0.

[0010] Preferably, the weave of the woven fabric is a variable basket weave, and in a complete weave, the ratio between the number of warp points A and the number of weft points B is 0.6 to 1.7; the porosity on any surface of the woven fabric is less than 1.5%.

[0011] Preferably, the structure of the woven fabric is a variable openwork structure, and in a complete structure, the ratio between the number of warp points A and the number of weft points B is 0.5 to 1.9; the woven fabric has oblique ribs on any surface, and the oblique ribs form an angle of 45 to 60° with the weft direction of the woven fabric.

[0012] Preferably, the woven fabric contains 30 to 100 weight percent of elastic yarn, and the elastic yarn has a stretch elongation of 10% to 60%.

[0013] Preferably, the elastic yarn is one or more of spandex core-spun yarn, spandex covered yarn, bicomponent crimped filament and long and short composite yarn containing bicomponent crimped filament.

[0014] Preferably, the bicomponent crimped filament is one or more of polyethylene terephthalate / polypropylene terephthalate composite fiber, polyethylene terephthalate / polybutylene terephthalate composite fiber, high viscosity polyethylene terephthalate / low viscosity polyethylene terephthalate composite fiber, high shrinkage polycaprolactam / low shrinkage polyhexamethylene adipamide, and high viscosity polycaprolactam / low viscosity polyhexamethylene sebacamide.

[0015] The present invention uses specific yarns and tissue designs to produce a knitted-like single-layer woven fabric with good elasticity, good anti-snagging properties, excellent wrinkle resistance, and comfortable wearing. The fabric can be widely used in the production of business shirts, long skirts, coats, trousers, etc. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0016] FIG1 is a schematic diagram of a modified basket weave structure in Example 10 of the present invention.

[0017] FIG2 is a schematic diagram of a modified basket weave structure in Example 11 of the present invention.

[0018] FIG3 is a schematic diagram of a changed through-pore structure in Example 14 of the present invention.

[0019] FIG4 is a schematic diagram of a changed through-pore structure in Example 15 of the present invention.

[0020] FIG5 is a schematic top view of the concave-convex surface of the single-layer woven fabric of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0021] The single-layer woven fabric of the present invention has concave and convex parts alternately distributed in the warp and / or weft directions on one side of the woven fabric, and the fabric presents a knitting-like effect with a concave-convex structure. The concave-convex structure can exist on one side of the fabric or on both sides. When the concave-convex structure exists only on one side of the fabric, it is preferred that the side with the concave-convex structure be the surface (display side) and the other side be the inside (skin side). Considering that the fabric is too thick and affects the wearing comfort, a single-layer tissue design is adopted to obtain a knitting-like effect. In the present invention, the knitting-like effect refers to the appearance style, elasticity and wearing comfort that are similar to or the same as those of knitted fabrics (especially rib or beaded fabrics). Elasticity includes warp elasticity and / or weft elasticity, and also includes diagonal elasticity. Wearing comfort refers to the fact that when the fabric is worn as a clothing fabric, it is both soft and has a certain bony feel. Too soft and sagging fabrics will stick to the skin, while an appropriate bony feel can support the fabric, forming an appropriate gap with the skin, thereby improving wearing comfort.

[0022] In the single-layer woven fabric of the present invention, the height of the convex portion is H, and the width is W, and the width W of the convex portion is 150 to 1200 μm. If W is less than 150 μm, the width of the convex portion is too small, and the three-dimensional effect of the concave-convex structure is weak; if W is greater than 1200 μm, the width of the convex portion is too large, the three-dimensional effect of the concave-convex structure will also be weak, and the anti-snagging performance is poor. The relationship formula of the ratio K of the height H of the convex portion to the width W is K = H (μm) / W (μm). The ratio K can characterize the flatness of the three-dimensional shape. The larger the ratio, the larger the height value of the convex portion, the smaller the width value, and the more slender the shape; the smaller the ratio, the smaller the height value of the convex portion, the larger the width value, and the flatter the three-dimensional shape. In order to obtain an appearance similar to a knitted-style concave-convex structure, the ratio K is set to 0.4 to 2.0. If the ratio K is less than 0.4, the fabric surface lacks a strong three-dimensional effect, and wearer comfort and wrinkle resistance are also poor. If the ratio K is greater than 2.0, the fabric surface becomes too rough and stiffness is reduced, making the fabric easily cling to the body, resulting in poor wearer comfort and the risk of snagging. Therefore, in the present invention, the ratio K of the height H to the width W of the raised portion is between 0.4 and 2.0.

[0023] The structure of the single-layer woven fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, and can be the three-dimensional structure and its modified structure.

[0024] Preferably, in the single-layer woven fabric of the present invention, in a complete weave, the plain weave and twill weave, or the plain weave and satin weave, are alternately arranged in the weft direction of the woven fabric. The plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave herein include variations thereof, which can be listed as warp-heavy plain weave, weft-heavy plain weave, square plain weave, fancy plain weave variations, composite twill, curved twill, broken twill, heavy satin, and reinforced satin, etc. This is because the plain weave has the most interlacing points, which can strengthen the bondage and friction between the yarns, limit the shrinkage of the yarns, and allow the weave to sink to the bottom to form a concave portion after processing and shrinkage, thus obtaining a vertical row of loops on the back side similar to a knitted fabric; the twill or satin weave has fewer interlacing points than the plain weave and has longer floats, resulting in a lower weave tightness. After processing, the yarn shrinks and arches to form a convex portion. By forming a concave-convex structure through such an alternating weave design, a vertical row of loops on the front side similar to a knitted fabric is obtained. Such a design can achieve a good imitation knitting effect with an improving trend, and the formed positive and negative coil longitudinal rows are not in the same plane. After stretching, the original concave and convex structure that is not in the same plane tends to become a horizontal straight line, which can produce higher torsion and bending, thereby increasing the weft ductility and improving the weft elasticity of the woven fabric.

[0025] The number of warp yarns in the plain weave is x, the number of warp yarns in the twill weave is y1, and the number of warp yarns in the satin weave is y2. The relationships x and y1, and x and y2, respectively, satisfy the following equations: 1≤y1 / x≤6, 1≤y2 / x≤6. Considering that plain weave has many interlacing points, short floats, and minimal shrinkage, the number of plain warp yarns is less than or equal to that of twill (or satin), i.e., y1 / x≥1 (or y2 / x≥1). This creates a distinct concave-convex structure in the woven fabric, and the knitting-like effect tends to improve. If adjacent twill (or satin) weaves are close together, i.e., y1 / x>6 (or y2 / x>6), the adjacent twill (or satin) weaves shrink closer together, weakening or even eliminating the plain weave effect in the middle. The knitting-like effect tends to decline, and if the floats are too long, the woven fabric is prone to snagging.

[0026] Preferably, the structure of the single-layer woven fabric of the present invention is a variable square basket weave. In a complete structure, the ratio between the number of warp points A and the number of weft points B (i.e., A / B) is 0.6 to 1.7. The relationship between the number of weave points has a great influence on the fabric's excellent imitation knitting effect. If the ratio of the number of warp points A to the number of weft points B is greater than 1.7, larger holes are formed on the fabric, the concave-convex structure formed on the surface is weak, the fabric is sparse, too soft and boneless, and the imitation knitting effect tends to weaken; if the ratio of the number of warp points A to the number of weft points B is less than 0.6, the fabric is tight, the concave-convex structure formed is weak, the imitation knitting effect is weak, and the elasticity tends to decrease. In the present invention, the porosity on any side of the woven fabric is less than 1.5%. The fabric has a certain porosity, which can not only give the fabric a closer imitation knitting effect, but also make it more comfortable to wear.

[0027] Preferably, the structure of the single-layer woven fabric of the present invention is a variable through-hole structure. In a complete structure, the ratio between the number of warp points A and the number of weft points B (i.e., A / B) is 0.5 to 1.9. The relationship between the number of tissue points has a great influence on the fabric's excellent imitation knitting effect. If the ratio of the number of warp points A to the number of weft points B is greater than 1.9, the fabric is sparse, the concave-convex structure formed is weak, and the imitation knitting effect tends to decline; if the ratio of the number of warp points A to the number of weft points B is less than 0.5, the fabric is tight, the concave-convex structure formed is weak, and the imitation knitting effect tends to decline. At the same time, the woven fabric has oblique ribs on any surface, and the oblique ribs form an angle of 45 to 60° (hereinafter referred to as angle α) with the weft direction of the woven fabric. If the angle α is less than 45°, the warp density is less than the weft density, the twill texture is not obvious, and the knitted-like appearance (ribbed effect) is weak. If the angle α is greater than 60°, the warp density is too greater than the weft density, the weft-direction extensibility is reduced, and the elasticity of the woven fabric tends to decrease. In the present invention, the ribs are preferably 450 to 850 μm in length, 150 to 550 μm in width, and 200 to 600 μm in height. To achieve an excellent knitted-like effect, it is more preferable that the woven fabric have diagonal ribs on either side with a length of 450 to 850 μm, a width of 150 to 550 μm, and a height of 200 to 600 μm, and that the diagonal ribs form an angle α of 45 to 60° with the weft direction of the woven fabric.

[0028] Preferably, the single-layer woven fabric of the present invention contains 30-100% by weight of elastic yarn, and the elastic yarn has a stretch elongation of 10-60%. A higher stretch elongation indicates greater yarn elasticity. If the stretch elongation exceeds 60%, the yarn's elasticity is excessive, the weave shrinks and tightens, the height of the convex portions increases, and the distance between adjacent convex portions decreases, resulting in a reduced knitting effect and increased snagging. If the stretch elongation is less than 10%, the yarn's elasticity is insufficient, the weave shrinks insufficiently, and the height difference between the concave and convex portions decreases, further reducing the knitting effect. If the content of elastic yarn with a stretch elongation of 10-60% in the woven fabric is less than 30% by weight, the low content of elastic yarn in the woven fabric tends to reduce the knitting effect, elasticity, and snagging resistance. Therefore, the single-layer woven fabric of the present invention preferably contains 30-100% by weight of elastic yarn.

[0029] Preferably, the elastic yarn in the single-layer woven fabric of the present invention is one or more of a spandex (PU) core-spun yarn, a spandex (PU) covered yarn, a bicomponent crimped filament, and a long-short composite yarn containing bicomponent crimped filaments. These yarns have excellent elasticity and can create differential shrinkage within the fabric, resulting in a knit-like effect with a concave-convex structure and improved wearer comfort. Bicomponent crimped filaments herein refer to filaments with a three-dimensional crimped structure formed by heat-treating bicomponent latent crimped fiber raw materials within a grey fabric. Bicomponent crimped filaments can be used alone or as a combination of filaments and staple yarns to form a long-short composite yarn. Bicomponent crimped filaments have excellent and stable elasticity and can impart appropriate shrinkage to the woven fabric, creating a distinct concave-convex effect and superior knit-like effect. Staple yarns impart a soft, cottony feel to the woven fabric with less of a chemical fiber feel, which tends to improve wearer comfort. Therefore, the elastic yarn of the single-layer woven fabric of the present invention is preferably a long-short composite yarn containing bicomponent crimped filaments.

[0030] Preferably, in the single-layer woven fabric of the present invention, the bicomponent crimped filaments are one or more of high-viscosity polyethylene terephthalate / low-viscosity polyethylene terephthalate composite fibers (high-viscosity PET / low-viscosity PET), polypropylene terephthalate / polyethylene terephthalate composite fibers (PTT / PET), polybutylene terephthalate / polyethylene terephthalate composite fibers (PBT / PET), high-shrinkage polyethylene terephthalate / low-shrinkage polyethylene terephthalate composite fibers (high-shrinkage PET / low-shrinkage PET), high-shrinkage polycaprolactam / low-shrinkage polyhexamethylene adipamide, and high-viscosity polycaprolactam / low-viscosity polyhexamethylene sebacamide. The bicomponent crimped filaments may be latent crimped fibers obtained by direct spinning or obtained by post-processing sea-island composite fibers. Sea-in-the-island composite fibers consist of an alkali-soluble polyester as the sea component, and one or more of high-viscosity PET / low-viscosity PET, PTT / PET, PBT / PET, or high-shrinkage PET / low-shrinkage PET as the island components. The bicomponent crimped filaments can be in composite configurations such as side-by-side or core-sheath, with round or irregular cross-sections. Examples of irregular cross-sections include 3 / 4-round, C-shaped, flat C-shaped, U-shaped, octyllobate, cross-shaped, and orange-slice-shaped. These irregular cross-sections can be achieved by direct spinning through spinneret settings or by post-processing to dissolve and remove soluble polymers.

[0031] Preferably, the bicomponent crimped filaments in the single-layer woven fabric of the present invention have a denier (D) of 30 to 75. If the denier is less than 30D, the yarn strength and elongation tend to decrease, potentially affecting the elasticity and knit-like effect of the woven fabric. If the denier is greater than 75D, the yarn processing conditions may become unstable.

[0032] Preferably, the staple fibers in the long-short composite yarn of the present invention are one or more of cotton (C) staple fibers, polyester (PET) staple fibers, viscose (R) staple fibers, and polyamide (Ny) staple fibers. When the staple fibers are made from multiple ingredients, examples include polyester-viscose staple fibers, polyester-cotton staple fibers, and nylon-cotton staple fibers. More preferably, functional particles are added to the staple fibers to impart excellent UV resistance, barrier properties, and antibacterial properties to the woven fabric. Examples of such particles include titanium dioxide particles and antibacterial particles.

[0033] Preferably, the staple fiber content of the long-short composite yarn of the present invention is 75-40% by weight. If the staple fiber content exceeds 75% by weight, the composite yarn's stretch elongation may decrease, and the knitting-like effect may be reduced. If the staple fiber content is less than 40% by weight, the staple fibers may easily deviate from the filaments, and the yarn quality may be reduced.

[0034] Preferably, in the single-layer woven fabric of the present invention, the composite yarn containing bicomponent crimped filaments may have a composite twist direction that is the same as the filament twist direction (i.e., co-directional composite) or opposite to the filament twist direction (i.e., counter-directional composite). Specifically, if the filaments in the composite yarn are Z-twisted, the composite twist direction during the composite yarn may be Z-twisted, i.e., the staple fibers are wrapped around the filaments in the Z-twisted direction, which is co-directional composite. Otherwise, it is counter-directional composite.

[0035] Preferably, the woven fabric of the present invention has a warp and / or weft elongation of more than 10%, and a 45° oblique elasticity of more than 15%.

[0036] As a preference, the woven fabric of the present invention has a gram weight of 120 to 220 g / m 2 between.

[0037] The woven fabric of the present invention can be used to make business shirts, long skirts, coats, trousers and the like.

[0038] The single-layer woven fabric of the present invention can be produced by the following method: elastic yarn is selected in the warp and / or weft directions, and the weft direction can be a plain weave and a twill weave, or a plain weave and a satin weave, or a modified basket weave, or a modified openwork weave, to weave a grey fabric. The grey fabric is then subjected to scouring, weight reduction (optional), mercerizing (optional), relaxation (optional), intermediate setting, weight reduction (optional), singeing (optional), dyeing, resin treatment, finishing and setting, and calendering (optional), to obtain the product of the present invention.

[0039] The resin processing is preferably a padding process, such as one-dip-one-pad, two-dip-two-pad, etc. The resin processing liquid is preferably an anti-wrinkle resin, the type of which is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include 2D resin (dimethylol dihydroxy ethylene urea), glyoxal resin, BTCA (butane tetracarboxylic acid), citric acid, maleic acid, chitin, and epoxy anti-wrinkle finishing agents.

[0040] The present invention will be further described below with reference to the following embodiments and comparative examples, but the protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereto.

[0041] The testing methods for various physical property parameters in the present invention are as follows:

[0042] (1) Elastic yarn content

[0043] Cut a smooth, wrinkle-free 10 cm x 10 cm piece of fabric to be tested as a specimen, weigh it, and record it as G. Then, disassemble the specimen to separate all yarns. Perform an elastic elongation test on the resulting yarns according to JIS L 1013:2010A to distinguish between elastic and inelastic yarns. Weigh the elastic yarn and record it as g1. Calculate the elastic yarn content (weight percentage) as (g1 / G) * 100%.

[0044] (2) Measurement of the height H, width W, and ratio K of the convex portion

[0045] Cut three pieces of fabric to be tested that are smooth and wrinkle-free, 5cm×5cm in size, as samples. First, take one of the samples, place it with the side with the concave-convex structure facing up, and place it under a digital microscope (model: VHX-6000). Select a suitable magnification (such as 100x) so that 1 to 4 complete tissue cycles can be observed. Then, randomly select a convex part and take a picture of it using the 3D imaging function of the microscope to obtain a top view of the concave-convex surface, as shown in Figure 5. Use the measurement software provided in the microscope system to measure. In the vertical direction of the weft yarn, take the distance between the highest point and the lowest point of the convex part, which is recorded as the height H of the convex part; in the direction parallel to the weft yarn, take the distance between the two end points of the outermost edge of the convex part in the horizontal direction, which is recorded as the width W of the convex part. According to the above method, a total of 5 convex parts on the fabric surface are measured.

[0046] The remaining two samples were measured in the same way, and the average value of the 15 data was used as the result of the convex portion height H and the convex portion width W. K was calculated using the relationship K = H (μm) / W (μm).

[0047] (3) The ratio of y1 / x (or the ratio of y2 / x)

[0048] Cut a smooth, wrinkle-free piece of fabric to be tested, 5 cm x 5 cm in size, as a specimen. Place the specimen with the concave-convex surface facing up under a digital microscope (model: VHX-6000). Select an appropriate magnification (e.g., 100x) that allows observation of 1 to 4 complete weave cycles. Confirm the number of warp yarns in different weaves in a complete weave cycle, such as x for plain weave and y1 for twill weave (or y2 for satin weave), and calculate the ratio y1 / x (or y2 / x).

[0049] (4) The ratio of the number of warp points A to the number of weft points B

[0050] Cut a smooth, wrinkle-free piece of fabric to be tested, 5 cm x 5 cm in size, as a specimen. Place the specimen with the concave-convex side facing upward under a digital microscope (model: VHX-6000). Select an appropriate magnification (e.g., 100x) that allows observation of 1 to 4 complete weave cycles and photograph the specimen. In one complete weave cycle, visually count the number of warp points A (where the warp yarn floats above the weft yarn) and the number of weft points B (where the warp yarn sinks below the weft yarn). Calculate the ratio of A to B.

[0051] (5) Porosity of fabric

[0052] Cut a piece of fabric to be tested that is smooth and wrinkle-free, with a size of 5cm×5cm as a sample, place it with the concave-convex structure side facing up under a digital microscope (model: VHX-6000), select "transmittance, 50x magnification" conditions to take a picture, and use the measurement software provided by the microscope system to measure a certain area (such as 35um 2 ) on the cloth surface, and the average value of 10 data is taken as the result.

[0053] (6) Determination of rib dimensions and oblique angles

[0054] Cut a piece of fabric to be tested that is flat and wrinkle-free, 5cm*5cm in size, as a sample. Place the side with the concave-convex and ribbed structure upwards under a digital microscope (model: VHX-6000). Select an appropriate magnification (e.g., 100x) that allows 1 to 4 complete tissue cycles to be observed and photographed. Use the measurement software included in the microscope system to measure and calculate the length, width, height, and oblique angle of the ribs. Take the average of 10 data points as the result. (7) Yarn stretch elongation (%)

[0055] According to the standard JIS L 1013:2021 8.11 C method.

[0056] The higher the elongation value, the greater the elongation of the yarn and the better the elasticity.

[0057] The specific test steps are as follows:

[0058] a. Sampling: Classify and extract the warp and weft fibers (stripes and ground) from the fabric to be tested as the yarn to be tested;

[0059] b. Apply an initial load (0.176 mN / tex, 30 s) and measure the length of the yarn to be tested, marked as L0;

[0060] c. Remove the initial load, apply a fixed load (8.82 mN / tex, 30 s), and measure the length of the yarn to be tested, marked as L1;

[0061] Calculated according to the formula

[0062] According to the above steps, each type of yarn to be tested is measured 10 times, and the average value is taken and recorded as the stretch elongation and stretch elasticity of each type of yarn to be tested.

[0063] (8) Oblique elastic elongation

[0064] Cut a smooth, wrinkle-free piece of fabric to be tested, 5cm*5cm in size, as a sample. Lay the sample flat on the table. Use the bottom edge of a set square parallel to any weft yarn and tilt it 45 degrees to the right and / or 45 degrees to the left. Take three samples with a size of 25cm long and 5.5cm wide, and then perform the elongation test according to JISL1096:2010A method.

[0065] (9) Anti-snagging

[0066] Tested according to GB / T 11047-2008.

[0067] (10) Anti-wrinkle

[0068] Tested according to AATCC 124-2018 method.

[0069] (11) Raw material identification

[0070] The test was carried out according to FZ / T 01057 Test method for identification of textile fibers.

[0071] (12) Blending ratio

[0072] The test was conducted according to JIS L1030-2:2012.

[0073] (13) Evaluation of imitation knitting appearance style

[0074] Ten people are randomly selected to visually evaluate the woven fabric in any direction. If 8-10 people think it has a knitted-like appearance, it is judged as excellent; 5-7 people think it has a knitted-like appearance, it is judged as good; 3-4 people think it has a knitted-like appearance, it is judged as fair; 0-2 people think it has a knitted-like appearance, it is judged as poor.

[0075] Example 1

[0076] The warp and weft yarns are 50s long and short composite yarns (with an elongation of 14%), among which the filament is 30D PBT / PET two-component latent crimped filament (two-component crimped filament after heat treatment), and the short fiber is polyester / cotton staple fiber (accounting for 75% by weight in the long and short composite yarn). After warping → sizing → beaming → weaving → weaving, the grey fabric is woven on an air-jet loom according to a complete organization (alternating cycle in the weft direction: 6 variable twills + 2 plain weaves). The grey cloth is processed through scouring (scouring agent 2g / L, caustic soda 2g / L, 95℃*30min) → mercerizing (caustic soda 240g / L, room temperature*1min) → intermediate setting (180℃) → singeing (one front and one back, speed 150m / min) → dyeing (one bath two-step method, polyester fiber dyeing 130℃*30min, cotton fiber dyeing 60℃*60min) → wrinkle-resistant resin processing (2D resin 160g / L, rolling rate 60%, 130℃*1min) → finishing and setting (150℃*1min) to obtain the fabric with a gram weight of 168g / m2. 2 The single-layer woven fabric has convex and concave portions alternating in the weft direction. Specific parameters are shown in Table 1.

[0077] Example 2

[0078] The warp and weft yarns are 60s long and short composite yarns (with a stretching elongation of 10%), wherein the filaments are 30D high-viscosity PET / low-viscosity PET two-component latent crimped filaments (two-component crimped filaments after heat treatment), and the short fibers are polyester / cotton staple fibers (accounting for 66% by weight in the long and short composite yarns). The fabric is woven according to a complete structure (weft alternating cycle: 12 variable twills + 2 plain weaves). The fabric is then finished and processed, the intermediate setting temperature is changed to 170°C, the resin processing is changed to a water-absorbing resin processing (1g / L, 80°C*20min), and the rest is the same as in Example 1, to obtain a fabric having a gram weight of 178g / m 2 The specific parameters of the single-layer woven fabric are shown in Table 1.

[0079] Example 3

[0080] The warp and weft yarns are 50s long composite yarns (with an extension rate of 8%), and the rest are the same as in Example 1. The weight of the present invention is 164g / m 2 The specific parameters of the single-layer woven fabric are shown in Table 1.

[0081] Example 4

[0082] The warp and weft yarns are 80s long and short composite yarns (with a stretching elongation of 30%), wherein the filaments are 30D PBT / PET bicomponent latent crimped filaments (bicomponent crimped filaments after heat treatment), and the short fibers are polyester staple fibers (accounting for 45% by weight in the long and short composite yarns). The fabric is woven according to a complete weave (weft alternating cycle: 5 satin weaves + 2 plain weaves). The fabric is then finished and processed. After scouring, mercerization is not performed, and a relaxation process (130 degrees * 30 minutes) is added. The rest is the same as in Example 2, and the weight of the fabric of the present invention is 154g / m 2 The specific parameters of the single-layer woven fabric are shown in Table 1.

[0083] Example 5

[0084] The warp yarn is selected from 50s long and short composite yarn (with a stretching elongation of 20%), wherein the filament is 50D PBT / PET two-component potential crimped filament (two-component crimped filament after heat treatment), and the staple fiber is viscose fiber (accounting for 72% by weight in the long and short composite yarn). The weft yarn is selected from 50S PU core-spun yarn (with a stretching elongation of 45%), wherein the core yarn is 20D spandex bare yarn, and the outer staple fiber is viscose fiber. The grey cloth is woven according to a complete organization (weft alternating cycle: 4 twills + 4 variable plain weaves). The grey cloth is then finished and processed, and the dyeing process is changed to a one-bath one-step method (polyester fiber dyeing 130 degrees * 30min). The rest is the same as Example 1, and the weight of the present invention is 190g / m 2 The specific parameters of the single-layer woven fabric are shown in Table 1.

[0085] Example 6

[0086] The warp and weft yarns are 60s long and short composite yarns (with a stretching elongation of 16%), wherein the filaments are 30D PBT / PET bicomponent latent crimped filaments (bicomponent crimped filaments after heat treatment), and the short fibers are polyester / cotton staple fibers (accounting for 66% by weight in the long and short composite yarns). The fabric is woven according to a complete structure (alternating weft cycle: 4 variable twills + 2 plain weaves). The rest is the same as in Example 1, and the weight of the fabric of the present invention is 176g / m 2 The specific parameters of the single-layer woven fabric are shown in Table 1.

[0087] Example 7

[0088] A complete weave is (weft alternating cycle: 4 twills + 6 plain weaves), and the rest is the same as in Example 5, and the weight of the fabric of the present invention is 186 g / m 2 The specific parameters of the single-layer woven fabric are shown in Table 1.

[0089] Example 8

[0090] A complete weave is (weft alternating cycle: 16 changing twills + 2 plain weaves), and the rest is the same as in Example 2, and the weight of the fabric of the present invention is 182 g / m 2 The specific parameters of the single-layer woven fabric are shown in Table 1.

[0091] Example 9

[0092] The warp yarn is selected from 32s long and short composite yarn (with a stretching elongation of 36%), wherein the filament is 75D PBT / PET two-component potential crimped filament (two-component crimped filament after heat treatment), and the short fiber is polyester staple fiber (accounting for 55% by weight in the long and short composite yarn). The weft yarn is selected from 88D spandex covered yarn (with a stretching elongation of 60%), wherein the core yarn is 40D spandex bare yarn and the outer fiber is 75D polyester filament. The organization is a variable square plain (the number of warp organization points A / the number of weft organization points B=1.0), and the grey cloth is woven. The grey cloth is then sorted and processed, and after scouring, it is directly subjected to intermediate shaping. The rest is the same as in Example 4, and the weight of the present invention is obtained to be 220g / m 2 The specific parameters of the single-layer woven fabric are shown in Table 2.

[0093] Example 10

[0094] The warp and weft yarns are 28s long and short composite yarns (with an extension rate of 16%), wherein the filaments are 50D PBT / PET two-component potential crimped filaments (two-component crimped filaments after heat treatment), and the short fibers are polyester / cotton staple fibers (accounting for 70% by weight in the long and short composite yarns). The weave is a variable square plain (the number of warp points A / the number of weft points B=1.7), and the grey fabric is woven. The grey fabric is then finished and processed, and the dyeing conditions are changed (one-bath two-step method, polyester fiber dyeing 130 degrees * 30min, cotton dyeing 60 degrees * 60min), and the rest are the same as in Example 9, to obtain the present invention with a gram weight of 190g / m 2 The specific parameters of the single-layer woven fabric are shown in Table 2.

[0095] Example 11

[0096] The warp and weft yarns are 28s long and short composite yarns (with a stretching elongation of 30%), wherein the filament is a 75D PTT / PET two-component potential crimped filament (two-component crimped filament after heat treatment), the short fiber is a super-dull polyester / cotton staple fiber (accounting for 65% by weight in the long and short composite yarns), and the organization is a variable square plain (warp organization point number A / weft organization point number B = 0.6). The rest is the same as in Example 9, and the weight of the present invention is 220g / m 2 The specific parameters of the single-layer woven fabric are shown in Table 2.

[0097] Example 12

[0098] The warp yarn is 45S polyester 65% cotton 35% yarn, and the weft yarn is 60s long and short composite yarn (with an elongation of 20%). The filament is 30D PBT / PET bicomponent potential crimped filament (bicomponent crimped filament after heat treatment), the short fiber is polyester / cotton staple fiber (accounting for 60% by weight in the long and short composite yarn), and the organization is a variable square weave (warp organization point number A / weft organization point number B = 1.1). The rest is the same as in Example 9, and the weight of the present invention is 172g / m 2 The specific parameters of the single-layer woven fabric are shown in Table 2.

[0099] Example 13

[0100] The warp and weft yarns are 75D sea-island composite yarns (with an elongation of 20%), the sea component is alkali-soluble polyester, and the island component is high-shrinkage PET / low-shrinkage PET (two-component crimped filaments after heat treatment). After removing the sea, the fiber cross-section is flat C-shaped, and the structure is a variable perforated structure (the number of warp points A / the number of weft points B = 1.6). Then the grey cloth is finished and processed, and after scouring, additional reduction processing is performed (liquid flow reduction, temperature 95 degrees, reduction rate 19%). The rest is the same as in Example 4, and the weight of the present invention is 162g / m 2 The specific parameters of the single-layer woven fabric are shown in Table 2.

[0101] Example 14

[0102] The warp yarn is made of 45S polyester-cotton yarn (65% polyester and 35% cotton), the weft yarn is made of 88D bicomponent PBT / PET potential crimped filament with a stretch elongation of 25% (bicomponent crimped filament after heat treatment), the structure is a variable openwork structure (warp structure point number A / weft structure point number B = 0.5), and then the grey cloth is finished and processed, and after the intermediate setting, additional reduction processing (liquid flow reduction, temperature 95 degrees, reduction rate 10%) is performed. The rest is the same as in Example 4, and the weight of the present invention is obtained. 2 The specific parameters of the single-layer woven fabric are shown in Table 2.

[0103] Example 15

[0104] The warp yarn is 88D bicomponent PBT / PET potential crimped filament with a stretch elongation of 25% (bicomponent crimped filament after heat treatment), the weft yarn is polyester-cotton yarn (45S polyester 65% cotton 35%), the structure is a variable openwork structure (warp structure point number A / weft structure point number B = 1.9), and the rest is the same as in Example 14, and the weight of the present invention is 168g / m 2 The specific parameters of the single-layer woven fabric are shown in Table 2.

[0105] Example 16

[0106] The warp yarn is a 54D bicomponent PBT / PET potential crimped filament with a stretching and elongation of 20% (a bicomponent crimped filament after heat treatment), and the weft yarn is a 75D sea-island composite yarn with a stretching and elongation of 20%. The sea component is an alkali-soluble polyester, and the island component is a high-shrinkage PET / low-shrinkage PET (a bicomponent crimped filament after heat treatment). After removing the sea, the fiber cross-section is a flat C-shape, and the structure is a variable perforated structure (the number of warp structure points A / the number of weft structure points B=1.0). The rest is the same as Example 13, and the weight of the present invention is 198g / m 2 The specific parameters of the single-layer woven fabric are shown in Table 2.

[0107] Example 17

[0108] The warp yarn is made of 45S polyester 65% cotton 35% yarn, and the weft yarn is made of 50D bicomponent PBT / PET potential crimped filament with a stretch elongation of 35% (bicomponent crimped filament after heat treatment). The rest is the same as in Example 14, and the weight of the present invention is 154g / m 2 The specific parameters of the single-layer woven fabric are shown in Table 3.

[0109] Example 18

[0110] The warp and weft yarns are made of 75D PBT yarns with a stretching rate of 25%, and the rest are the same as in Example 4. The weight of the present invention is 180g / m 2 The specific parameters of the single-layer woven fabric are shown in Table 3.

[0111] Example 19

[0112] The warp yarn is a 30D bicomponent PBT / PET potential crimped filament with a stretch elongation of 20% (a bicomponent crimped filament after heat treatment), and the weft yarn is a 75D sea-island composite yarn with a stretch elongation of 20%. The sea component is an alkali-soluble polyester, and the island component is a high-shrinkage PET / low-shrinkage PET (a bicomponent crimped filament after heat treatment). After removing the sea component, the fiber cross-section is a flat C-shape. The rest is the same as in Example 13, and the weight of the present invention is 189g / m 2 The specific parameters of the single-layer woven fabric are shown in Table 3.

[0113] Comparative Example 1

[0114] A complete weave was changed to a 4-weave twill (3 / 1 twill), with 4 warp yarns in the twill weave and no plain weave. The y1 / x value was 0, and the rest was the same as in Example 6 to produce a single-layer woven fabric with no alternating concave and convex in the weft direction. Specific parameters are shown in Table 3.

[0115] Comparative Example 2

[0116] A complete weave is changed to a honeycomb weave (i.e., a variable twill weave is alternating with a variable weave of warp and weft yarn floats of varying lengths), the y1 / x value is 0, and the rest is the same as in Example 4 to produce a single-layer woven fabric. Specific parameters are shown in Table 3.

[0117] Comparative Example 3

[0118] The warp and weft yarns were 20s long and short composite yarns (with an elongation of 8%), the filaments were 75D PBT / PET bicomponent latent crimped filaments (bicomponent crimped filaments after heat treatment), and the staple fibers were polyester / cotton staple fibers (accounting for 75% by weight in the long and short composite yarns). The rest of the preparation was the same as in Example 10 to produce a single-layer woven fabric. The specific parameters are shown in Table 3.

[0119] According to the above table,

[0120] (1) It can be seen from Examples 1 and 3 that, under the same conditions, the elasticity and knitted-like appearance of a single-layer woven fabric made of elastic yarn with a stretch elongation of 14% are better than those of a single-layer woven fabric made of elastic yarn with a stretch elongation of 8%, and the snagging resistance and wrinkle resistance of the two are comparable.

[0121] (2) It can be seen from Examples 5 and 7 that, under the same conditions, the elasticity and knitted-like appearance of the single-layer woven fabric with a y1 / x ratio of 1.0 are better than those of the single-layer woven fabric with a y1 / x ratio of 0.6, and the wrinkle resistance of the two is comparable.

[0122] (3) It can be seen from Example 2 and Example 8 that, under the same conditions, the single-layer woven fabric with a y1 / x ratio of 6.0 is superior to the single-layer woven fabric with a y1 / x ratio of 8.0 in terms of snagging, wrinkle resistance and knitted appearance style, and the elasticity of the two is comparable.

[0123] (4) It can be seen from Example 14 and Example 17 that, under the same conditions, the elasticity, knitted appearance style evaluation and anti-snagging property of the single-layer woven fabric with an elastic yarn content of 30% are better than those of the single-layer woven fabric with an elastic yarn content of 22%, and the wrinkle resistance of the two is equivalent.

[0124] (5) It can be seen from Examples 13 and 18 that, under the same conditions, the elasticity and knitted-like appearance of a single-layer woven fabric containing a bicomponent PET / PET elastic yarn are better than those of a single-layer woven fabric containing a monocomponent PBT elastic yarn, and the wrinkle resistance and snag resistance of the two are comparable.

[0125] (6) It can be seen from Comparative Example 1 and Example 6 that, under the same conditions, the elasticity, knitted appearance style evaluation, anti-snagging and anti-wrinkle properties of a single-layer woven fabric with only twill weave in the weft direction are inferior to those of a single-layer woven fabric with alternating twill / plain weave in the weft direction.

[0126] (7) It can be seen from Comparative Example 2 and Example 4 that, under the same conditions, the single-layer woven fabric with a ratio K of 2.4 is inferior to the single-layer woven fabric with a ratio K of 2.0 in terms of knitted appearance style evaluation, wrinkle resistance and snag resistance, while the elasticity of the two is comparable.

[0127] (8) It can be seen from Comparative Example 3 and Example 10 that, under the same conditions, the single-layer woven fabric with a ratio K of 0.3 is inferior to the single-layer woven fabric with a ratio K of 0.8 in terms of knitted appearance style evaluation, elasticity and anti-snagging properties, while the wrinkle resistance of the two is comparable.

Claims

1. A single-layer woven fabric, characterized by: On one side of the woven fabric, concave portions and convex portions are alternately distributed in the warp and / or weft directions, the width W of the convex portions is 150 to 1200 μm, and the ratio K of the height H to the width W of the convex portions is 0.4 to 2.0, and the relationship is K = H (μm) / W (μm).

2. The single-layer woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein: In a complete weave, the plain weave and twill weave, or the plain weave and satin weave, are alternately arranged in the weft direction of the woven fabric, and the number of warp yarns of the plain weave is x, the number of warp yarns of the twill weave is y1, and the number of warp yarns of the satin weave is y2. x and y1, x and y2 respectively satisfy the following relationships: 1.0≤y1 / x≤6.0, 1.0≤y2 / x≤6.

0.

3. The single-layer woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein: The weave of the woven fabric is a variable basket weave, and in a complete weave, the ratio between the number of warp weave points A and the number of weft weave points B is 0.6 to 1.7; the porosity on any surface of the woven fabric is less than 1.5%.

4. The single-layer woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein: The structure of the woven fabric is a variable openwork structure, and in a complete structure, the ratio between the number of warp points A and the number of weft points B is 0.5 to 1.9; the woven fabric has oblique ribs on any surface, and the oblique ribs form an angle of 45 to 60 degrees with the weft direction of the woven fabric.

5. The single-layer woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that: The woven fabric contains 30 to 100 weight percent of elastic yarn, and the elastic elongation of the elastic yarn is 10 to 60 percent.

6. The single-layer woven fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that: The elastic yarn is one or more of a spandex core-spun yarn, a spandex covered yarn, a bicomponent crimped filament, and a long and short composite yarn containing a bicomponent crimped filament.

7. The single-layer woven fabric according to claim 6, wherein: The bicomponent crimped filament is one or more of polyethylene terephthalate / polypropylene terephthalate composite fiber, polyethylene terephthalate / polybutylene terephthalate composite fiber, high-viscosity polyethylene terephthalate / low-viscosity polyethylene terephthalate composite fiber, high-shrinkage polycaprolactam / low-shrinkage polyhexamethylene adipamide, and high-viscosity polycaprolactam / low-viscosity polyhexamethylene sebacamide.

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