Process for the preparation of anti-crease washable colour spun wool fabric

Abstract

The application belongs to the technical field of textile dyeing and finishing, and particularly relates to a preparation process of wrinkle-resistant machine-washable colored spun wool fabric. The preparation process of the wrinkle-resistant machine-washable colored spun wool fabric comprises a spinning process and a wool fabric production process. The spinning process comprises the following steps: wool carding, pre-drawing, drawing, roving, spinning, and doubling. The wool fabric production process comprises the following steps: colored yarn warping, sizing, weaving, singeing, desizing, liquid ammonia treatment, tentering, pre-shrinking, and fulling. The preparation process of the wrinkle-resistant machine-washable colored spun wool fabric is provided. Wool, polyester and viscose are blended, and the advantages and disadvantages of the raw materials are complementary. The fabric has the texture of wool and the wrinkle resistance and stiffness of polyester. The viscose further weakens the itching and skin irritation of the wool. Finally, the prepared colored spun wool fabric has high wrinkle resistance, high anti-pilling property, high dimensional stability, is machine-washable, is easy to care, has the appearance of flower ash, and is suitable for the field of casual fabrics.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of textile dyeing and finishing technology, and specifically relates to a preparation process for wrinkle-resistant, machine-washable dyed wool fabric. Background Technology

[0002] Wool fibers naturally possess excellent temperature and humidity regulation properties. Relying on the internal structure of the fiber and the air storage effect of the scale layer, it can achieve an automatic temperature control effect of being warm in winter and cool in summer. It has a high-end feel and outstanding wearing comfort, and has long been the core raw material for high-end suits, uniforms, and formal wear fabrics, which are highly favored by consumers. However, the unique serrated surface structure of wool itself brings unavoidable shortcomings: when wool gets wet, the scales interlock, slip and entangle, making it very easy to shrink and felt, and the fabric will clump and deform; during daily wear and friction, the fiber hairs fall out and entangle to form fuzz balls, and the fabric has poor anti-pilling performance; in addition, the exposed hard scales come into direct contact with the skin, which can cause skin irritation and itching; at the same time, the felting and shrinking characteristics mean that wool fabrics can only be dry cleaned, which is difficult to handle in daily life and makes it difficult to meet the needs of consumers in today's fast-paced life for convenient washing and care.

[0003] To address the aforementioned pain points of wool fabrics, the textile industry has conducted extensive research. CN111074405A discloses a manufacturing process for machine-washable compact Siro-spun wool suit fabric. This process addresses the issues of traditional wool suit fabrics being unwashable and prone to felting and pilling, constructing a complete end-to-end manufacturing process for blended elastic suit fabrics. This process involves fiber modification and blending of double-anti-pilling polyester with Australian wool, reducing fuzz through compact Siro-spun core yarn, hydrolyzing wool scales with protease, singeing, and resin setting for multiple protections. The resulting finished product achieves an anti-pilling level of 3-4, effectively resolving pilling issues. This technology solves the problem of shrinkage during machine washing of pure wool. The entire process covers the entire chain from spinning and weaving to finishing, with clearly defined process parameter ranges, enabling stable mass production of woven wool suit fabrics. It uses double-resistant polyester as raw material. The working principle of polyester is to reduce the fiber strength by reducing the molecular weight and copolymerization modification, which indirectly reduces the service life of the fabric. Secondly, the wool fabric is treated with a protease mixed solution, which causes a certain amount of weight loss in the wool fibers. Blended fabrics may have mixing ratio deviations. If the process parameters are not strictly controlled, the strength loss may exceed the standard, affecting the durability of the fabric.

[0004] CN113718400A discloses a wool blend woven right-hand twill jacquard fabric and its weaving process. In this process, the warp yarn is a compact Siro-spun yarn of cationic polyester, Yacel, and wool blend, and the weft yarn is a ring-spun yarn of bamboo fiber and acrylic fiber. The fabric has a 2-up 2-down right-hand twill jacquard structure. The entire process covers four major weaving stages: warping, sizing, differentiated heddle and reed threading, and multi-arm air-jet weaving. It is equipped with a dedicated sizing formula and control logic for loom angle, tension, and speed. By combining the advantages of multiple fibers, the fabric has a comfortable hand feel and is suitable for dark dyeing, making it suitable for high-end uniforms. However, the three types of fibers in the warp yarn are blended, and there are significant differences in the types of dyes, dyeing temperatures, and dyeing pH. This can lead to dye competition, damage to the wool, and a high risk of color unevenness, making color control difficult.

[0005] CN121065940A discloses a method for preparing a non-itchy wool fabric. After mercerizing the wool fibers, liquid ammonia finishing is used to further damage and passivate the wool scales, completely eliminating the itching sensation caused by the wool fibers. Wool fabric prepared using this method achieves an itching level of 5 in an itching test, while fabrics not treated with liquid ammonia achieve a lower level. Simultaneously, this method also imparts softness to the wool fabric, making it more comfortable to wear while maintaining its excellent performance, thus expanding the application range of wool fabrics in areas such as underwear. However, this patent only addresses the itching problem of wool. After descaling the wool and then applying resin treatment, a resin coating forms on the fiber surface. This coating blocks the inherent moisture absorption, breathability, and self-regulating temperature properties of the wool fibers, damaging the original comfort performance of the wool.

[0006] Although existing technologies have optimized wool fabrics through blending, it is still difficult to simultaneously solve multiple industry pain points such as shrinkage and felting, pilling, itching against the skin, poor wrinkle resistance, and inability to be machine washed. Summary of the Invention

[0007] The purpose of this invention is to overcome the aforementioned defects in the existing technology and provide a preparation process for wrinkle-resistant, machine-washable yarn-dyed wool fabric. By blending wool, polyester, and viscose, the superior and inferior properties of the materials complement each other. The fabric has the texture of wool and the wrinkle-resistant and crispness of polyester, while viscose further reduces the itchiness and irritation of wool. Ultimately, the prepared yarn-dyed wool fabric has high wrinkle resistance, high pilling resistance, high dimensional stability, is machine washable, easy to care for, and has a heather gray appearance, making it suitable for the casual fabric field.

[0008] To achieve the above objectives, the technical solution adopted by the present invention is as follows: The preparation process of the wrinkle-resistant, machine-washable colored wool fabric includes spinning and wool fabric production processes. The spinning process includes the following steps: wool mixing → carding → pre-drawing → drawing → roving → spinning → winding → doubling twist. The wool fabric production process includes the following steps: colored yarn warping → sizing → weaving → singeing → desizing → liquid ammonia → stretching → pre-shrinking → steaming.

[0009] The spinning process uses wool, polyester, and viscose as blended raw materials, with the wool being mercerized, shrink-resistant, and bleached tops. The spinning method is compact Sirospun. In the weaving process, the fabric structure is 2 / 2 twill, with a warp density of 90-100 yarns / inch and a weft density of 80-85 yarns / inch. The spinning equipment used includes a carding machine (FA231A), a pre-drawing frame (TM3807S), a drawing frame (TD10-600), a roving frame (HCP498-120), a spinning frame (FA506), and a winding machine (SAVIO).

[0010] The mass percentages of each component in the blended raw material are as follows: wool 45-50%, polyester 25-30%, viscose 25-30%; preferably, the mass percentages of each component in the blended raw material are: wool 50%, polyester 25%, viscose 25%.

[0011] The mercerized, shrink-resistant, bleached wool tops are mercerized, shrink-resistant, drawn-cut merino Australian bleached wool tops with a fiber diameter of 15-17μm and a fiber length of 35-40mm; the viscose is solution-dyed viscose with a fiber length of 35-40mm and a fiber fineness of 1.3-1.5D; the polyester is solution-dyed polyester with a fiber length of 35-40mm and a fiber fineness of 1.3-1.5D; preferably, the wool is 100S mercerized, shrink-resistant, drawn-cut merino Australian bleached wool tops with a wool fiber diameter of 16.5μm and a fiber length of 38mm; the viscose is solution-dyed viscose from Tangshan Sanyou Chemical Co., Ltd. with a fiber length of 38mm and a fiber fineness of 1.5D; the polyester is solution-dyed polyester from Boheng New Fiber (Shanghai) Technology Co., Ltd. with a fiber length of 38mm and a fiber fineness of 1.5D.

[0012] The compact Siro-spun yarn has a count of 50-60 ply, a single yarn twist of 28-31 T / in, and a ply twist of 16-22 T / in; preferably, the compact Siro-spun 50 ply has a single yarn twist of 28.1 T / in and a ply twist of 16.3 T / in; the compact Siro-spun 60 ply has a single yarn twist of 30.7 T / in and a ply twist of 21.7 T / in.

[0013] In the sizing process, the raw materials for the sizing agent, by weight, are: 10-15 kg of polyvinyl alcohol, 10-15 kg of polyacrylamide, 90-100 kg of modified starch, and 3-5 kg ​​of wax flakes, with a sizing concentration of 6-9%. During the sizing process, the temperature of the sizing tank is controlled at 90-95℃, the tension of a single warp beam is 0.2-0.3 N, and the relative elongation of the warp yarns in the auxiliary pre-drying section is controlled at 0.3-0.5%. The pressing force of the main pressing is 15-20 kN. Among them, the polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) is preferably the product of Changchun Chemical (Jiangsu) Co., Ltd., the polyacrylamide is preferably M-5A of Shanghai Xida Industrial Co., Ltd., the modified starch is preferably high-performance modified starch AS-1 of Hefei Runli Textile New Material Co., Ltd., and the wax flakes are preferably 02-A of Hefei Runli Textile New Material Co., Ltd.

[0014] In the singeing process, the burner position is selected as the cutting burner, the flame intensity is 8~10mbar, and the machine speed is 90~100m / min.

[0015] The desizing process conditions are as follows: steaming box temperature 90~95℃, steaming box stacking time 5~8min, machine speed 60~70m / min, washing tank temperature 90~95℃, and the following are added to the desizing working solution: high-temperature desizing enzyme: 20~30g / L, penetrant: 3~5g / L, refining agent: 20~30g / L; the high-temperature desizing enzyme is preferably DS-HT from Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd., the refining agent is preferably XC-J from Qingdao Xietong Chemical Co., Ltd., and the penetrant is preferably WR-03 from Qingdao Ounos Industry and Trade Co., Ltd.

[0016] The liquid ammonia process conditions are as follows: liquid ammonia processing machine tension 50~60N, water washing tank with roller drive, machine speed 20~30m / min, water washing tank temperature 50~60℃.

[0017] The conditions for the tenter frame process are as follows: 2-5 g / L of tenter frame acid-base stabilizer and 10-30 g / L of eco-friendly softener are added to the tenter frame working solution; the temperature of the tenter frame drying chamber is 100-130℃; the machine speed is 50-70 m / min; the rolling mill pressure is 20-30 N / cm; and the overfeed is 3.0-3.5%. The acid-base stabilizer is preferably pH-X produced by Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd., and the eco-friendly softener is preferably 8633 from Zhuhai Huada Haohong New Materials Co., Ltd.

[0018] The pre-shrinking process conditions are: steam humidification, rubber blanket temperature 100~130℃, felt blanket temperature 100~130℃, pressure distance 14~16mm, and machine speed 30~50m / min.

[0019] The conditions for the steaming process are as follows: heating steaming roller temperature 100~130℃, steam temperature in steam tank 100~130℃, heating steaming roller pressure 2.0~2.5 bar, steam pressure in steam tank 1.0~1.5 bar, steam tank sealing pressure 0.5~1 bar, conveyor belt speed 10~15 m / min, pneumatic tension of the felt set to 30~40%, electric tension of the felt set to 5~10%, and cooling guide belt tension set to 5~10%.

[0020] Preferably, the preparation process of the wrinkle-resistant, machine-washable yarn-dyed wool fabric includes the following steps: wool mixing → carding → pre-drawing → drawing → roving → spinning → winding → doubling twist → warping of colored yarn → sizing → weaving → singeing → desizing → liquid ammonia → stretching → pre-shrinking → steaming. The process conditions involved in the above steps are as follows: The spinning process includes wool blending → carding → pre-drawing → drawing → roving → spinning → winding → doubling twisting. Wool, polyester, and viscose are used as blended raw materials, with the following mass percentages: wool 50%, polyester 25%, and viscose 25%. The spinning method is compact Sirospun. For 50-count compact Sirospun ply yarn: single yarn twist 28.1 T / in, ply twist 16.3 T / in; for 60-count compact Sirospun ply yarn: single yarn twist 30... 0.7T / in, ply twist 21.7T / in; in the weaving process, the fabric structure adopts 2 / 2 twill, the warp density is 90~100 ends / inch, and the weft density is 80~85 ends / inch; cotton spinning equipment is selected, carding machine model FA231A, pre-drawing frame TM3807S, drawing frame TD10-600, roving frame model HCP498-120, ring spinning frame FA506, winding machine SAVIO; In the sizing process, the raw materials for the sizing agent, based on the input weight, are: 15kg polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), 15kg polyacrylamide (M-5A), 100kg modified starch (AS-1), and 3kg wax flakes (02-A), resulting in a sizing solution with a mass concentration of 9%. During the sizing process, the temperature of the sizing tank is controlled at 92.5±2.5℃, the tension of a single warp beam on the warp beam is 0.2N, the relative elongation of the warp yarns in the auxiliary pre-drying section is controlled at 0.5%, and the sizing pressure of the main pressing stage is 20kN. During the singeing process, the burner position is selected as the cutting burner, the flame intensity is 10 mbar, and the machine speed is 100 m / min; In the desizing process, the steaming box temperature is 92.5±2.5℃, the steaming box stacking time is 5min, the machine speed is 60m / min, the water washing tank temperature is 92.5±2.5℃, and the following are added to the desizing working solution: high temperature desizing enzyme DS-HT: 30g / L, penetrant WR-03: 3g / L, refining agent XC-J: 30g / L; In the liquid ammonia process, a knitting liquid ammonia machine is used, with a liquid ammonia processing machine tension of 50N, a roller drive in the washing tank, a machine speed of 20m / min, and a washing tank temperature of 52.5±2.5℃. In the tenter frame process, the tenter frame working fluid is supplemented with a tenter frame acid-base stabilizer pH-X: 2g / L, an eco-friendly softener 8633: 30g / L, a tenter frame drying oven temperature of 110℃, a machine speed of 50m / min, a rolling mill pressure of 25N / cm, and an overfeed of 3.0%. In the pre-shrinking process, steam humidification is used, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 110℃, the temperature of the felt blanket is 130℃, the pressure distance is 16mm, and the machine speed is 35m / min. In the steaming process, the temperature of the heating steaming roller is 110℃, the steam temperature in the steam tank is 120℃, the pressure of the heating steaming roller is 2.0 bar, the steam pressure in the steam tank is 1.0 bar, the sealing pressure of the steam tank is 0.5 bar, the conveyor belt speed is 10 m / min, the pneumatic tension of the blanket is set to 40%, the electric tension of the blanket is set to 8%, and the tension of the cooling guide belt is set to 7%.

[0021] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows: (1) The preparation process of the wrinkle-resistant machine-washable yarn-dyed wool fabric of the present invention uses wool, polyester and viscose as blended raw materials. The performance advantages of each fiber complement each other. Wool gives the fabric a natural winter-warm and summer-cool, breathable and antibacterial, warm and soft texture; polyester fiber effectively improves the fabric’s stiffness and wrinkle-resistant properties; viscose fiber further weakens the inherent scaly itching sensation of wool and greatly improves the fabric’s skin-friendly comfort; at the same time, the use of solution-dyed fibers avoids the damage to wool fibers caused by traditional dyeing and finishing processes and eliminates the discharge of dyeing wastewater.

[0022] (2) The spinning process of this invention uses cotton spinning equipment and cotton spinning process flow, which has strong adaptability, short production process, high output and low production cost; the compact Siro spinning process is combined with exclusive twist parameters to effectively reduce yarn hairiness and optimize yarn dryness uniformity, so that the ply yarn structure is compact, smooth and flat, and solves the problem of friction pilling of wool fabric from the root, making the fabric durable and anti-pilling.

[0023] (3) This invention uses the synergistic effect of liquid ammonia modification, mechanical pre-shrinking and high-temperature steaming and setting processes. Through the low-tension processing of the liquid ammonia knitting machine, the small molecules of liquid ammonia penetrate the wool scales and go deep into the keratin, reshaping the molecular structure of wool fibers and improving the inherent defects of wool shrinking, felting and deformation when it comes into contact with water. Combined with the pre-shrinking pressure control of warp shrinkage and the steam pressure control of weft setting, and the high-temperature steaming and setting, the fabric dimensional stability and wrinkle resistance performance are greatly improved, and the wool fabric can be machine washed and is easy to care for. Attached Figure Description

[0024] Figure 1The images show longitudinal optical micrographs of the fibers obtained in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1. Figure 2 The image shows a longitudinal optical micrograph of 80S wool fibers in Comparative Example 2. Figure 3 The image shows a longitudinal optical micrograph of the fibers at the pilling point of Comparative Example 3. Figure 4 This is a comparison chart of the products obtained in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1; Figure 5 The image shows a comparison of the product obtained in Example 1 after 10 and 30 washes. Figure 6 This is a comparison chart of the product obtained in Example 2 after 10 and 30 water washes; Figure 7 The image shows a comparison of the product obtained in Example 3 after 10 and 30 water washes. Detailed Implementation

[0025] The technical solution of the present invention will be further described below with reference to the embodiments and comparative examples. Unless otherwise specified, the raw materials used are all conventional commercial raw materials, and the process methods used are all conventional methods in the art unless otherwise specified.

[0026] In the examples and comparative examples, unless otherwise specified, the wool used was 100S mercerized anti-shrinkage cut Merino Australian bleached wool top, with a wool fiber diameter of 16.5μm and a fiber length of 38mm; the viscose used was solution-dyed viscose from Tangshan Sanyou Chemical Co., Ltd., with a fiber length of 38mm and a fiber fineness of 1.5D; and the polyester used was solution-dyed polyester from Boheng New Fiber (Shanghai) Technology Co., Ltd., with a fiber length of 38mm and a fiber fineness of 1.5D.

[0027] The examples and comparative examples describe the preparation of wrinkle-resistant, machine-washable yarn-dyed wool fabrics according to the following process steps. The preparation process of the wrinkle-resistant, machine-washable yarn-dyed wool fabric includes the following steps: wool mixing → carding → pre-drawing → drawing → roving → spinning → winding → doubling twist → warping of colored yarn → sizing → weaving → singeing → desizing → liquid ammonia → stretching → pre-shrinking → steaming. The process conditions involved in the above steps are as follows: The spinning process includes wool blending → carding → pre-drawing → drawing → roving → spinning → winding → doubling twisting. Wool, polyester, and viscose are used as blended raw materials, with the following mass percentages: wool 50%, polyester 25%, and viscose 25%. The spinning method is compact Sirospun. For 50-count compact Sirospun ply yarn: single yarn twist 28.1 T / in, ply twist 16.3 T / in; for 60-count compact Sirospun ply yarn: single yarn twist 30... 0.7T / in, ply twist 21.7T / in; in the weaving process, the fabric structure adopts 2 / 2 twill, the warp density is 90~100 ends / inch, and the weft density is 80~85 ends / inch; cotton spinning equipment is selected, carding machine model FA231A, pre-drawing frame TM3807S, drawing frame TD10-600, roving frame model HCP498-120, ring spinning frame FA506, winding machine SAVIO; In the sizing process, the raw materials for the sizing agent, based on the input weight, are: 15kg polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), 15kg polyacrylamide (M-5A), 100kg modified starch (AS-1), and 3kg wax flakes (02-A), resulting in a sizing solution with a mass concentration of 9%. During the sizing process, the temperature of the sizing tank is controlled at 92.5±2.5℃, the tension of a single warp beam on the warp beam is 0.2N, the relative elongation of the warp yarns in the auxiliary pre-drying section is controlled at 0.5%, and the sizing pressure of the main pressing stage is 20kN. In the singeing process: select the burner position as the cutting burner, the flame intensity is 10mbar, and the machine speed is 100m / min; In the desizing process: the steaming box temperature is 92.5±2.5℃, the steaming box stacking time is 5min, the machine speed is 60m / min, the water washing tank temperature is 92.5±2.5℃, and the following are added to the desizing working solution: high temperature desizing enzyme DS-HT: 30g / L, penetrant WR-03: 3g / L, refining agent XC-J: 30g / L; In the liquid ammonia process: a knitting liquid ammonia machine is used, the liquid ammonia processing machine tension is 50N, the washing tank uses a roller drive, the machine speed is 20m / min, and the washing tank temperature is 52.5±2.5℃; In the tenter frame process: pH-X, a tenter frame acid-base stabilizer, is added to the tenter frame working solution at 2 g / L; 8633, an eco-friendly softener, is added at 30 g / L; the tenter frame drying oven temperature is 110℃; the machine speed is 50 m / min; the rolling mill pressure is 25 N / cm; and the overfeed is 3.0%. In the pre-shrinking process: steam humidification, rubber blanket temperature 110℃, felt blanket temperature 130℃, pressure distance 16mm, machine speed 35m / min; In the steaming process: the temperature of the heating steaming roller is 110℃, the steam temperature in the steam tank is 120℃, the pressure of the heating steaming roller is 2.0 bar, the steam pressure in the steam tank is 1.0 bar, the sealing pressure of the steam tank is 0.5 bar, the conveyor belt speed is 10 m / min, the pneumatic tension of the blanket is set to 40%, the electric tension of the blanket is set to 8%, and the tension of the cooling guide belt is set to 7%.

[0028] Example 1 In this embodiment, the sample is of the same color in both warp and weft, with a 2 / 2 weave. The raw material is a blend of wool, polyester, and viscose, comprising 25% viscose, 25% polyester, and 50% wool by mass percentage. It is a compact Siro-spun 60-count ply, with a single yarn twist of 30.7 T / in and a ply twist of 21.7 T / in. The warp density is 100 yarns / inch, and the weft density is 85 yarns / inch.

[0029] Example 2 In this embodiment, the sample is of the same color in both warp and weft, with a 2 / 2 weave. The raw material is a blend of wool, polyester, and viscose, comprising 25% viscose, 25% polyester, and 50% wool by mass percentage. It is a compact Siro-spun 60-count ply, with a single yarn twist of 30.7 T / in and a ply twist of 21.7 T / in. The warp density is 100 yarns / inch, and the weft density is 85 yarns / inch. The raw materials used in this embodiment are of the same specifications but different colors as those in Example 1.

[0030] Example 3 In this embodiment, the sample is of the same color in both warp and weft, with a 2 / 2 weave. The raw material is a blend of wool, polyester, and viscose, comprising 25% viscose, 25% polyester, and 50% wool by mass percentage. It is a compact Siro-spun 50-count ply, with a single yarn twist of 28.1 T / in and a ply twist of 16.3 T / in. The warp density is 90 yarns / inch, and the weft density is 80 yarns / inch.

[0031] Comparative Example 1 The difference between Comparative Example 1 and Example 1 is that the liquid ammonia step is omitted, while the remaining processes and raw materials are the same as in Example 1.

[0032] Comparative Example 2 The difference between Comparative Example 2 and Example 1 is that the wool used is anti-shrink wool 80S, while the rest of the process is the same as in Example 1.

[0033] Comparative Example 3 The difference between Comparative Example 3 and Example 1 is that, by mass percentage, the yarn blending ratio is adjusted to: 30% wool, 40% viscose, and 30% polyester, while the rest of the process is the same as in Example 1.

[0034] Comparative Example 4 The difference between Comparative Example 4 and Example 1 is that the steaming process is omitted, while the remaining processes and raw materials are the same as in Example 1.

[0035] The wrinkle-resistant, machine-washable yarn-dyed wool fabrics obtained in the examples and comparative examples were subjected to performance testing. First, the warp and weft yarns of the fibers in the products obtained in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were characterized using an optical microscope to obtain... Figure 1 In the figure, from left to right and top to bottom, are longitudinal optical micrographs of the warp yarn of Example 1, the weft yarn of Example 1, the warp yarn of Comparative Example 1, and the weft yarn of Comparative Example 1, respectively. Individual fibers of the 80S wool warp and weft yarns in Comparative Example 2 were separated and characterized using an optical microscope to obtain... Figure 2 The figures, from left to right, show longitudinal optical micrographs of the warp and weft yarns; the fibers at the pilling and fuzzing areas of the product obtained in Comparative Example 3 were characterized using an optical microscope, yielding... Figure 3 The images show longitudinal optical micrographs of different areas of fuzzing and pilling.

[0036] Secondly, two 40*40cm fabric samples were used for the experiment. The wrinkle resistance test method followed GB / T 13769-2009, involving 10 and 30 washes at 5N, rated under the same light source. The dimensional stability test method followed GB / T 8629-2017 and GB / T 8630-2013, involving washing at 6N, hanging to dry, and calculating the dimensional change rate. The pilling test method followed GB / T 4802.1-2008. For the fuzz test, the fabric was observed from 30° under a D65 standard light source, referring to the actual standard sample card. The hand feel was assessed by conditioned in a constant temperature chamber (20±2℃, RH 65%±3%) for 4 hours, and judged by three people. The luster and color were rated visually under a D65 standard light source. All results are summarized in Table 1 below. A comparison of the products in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 is shown below. Figure 4 As shown, the left side is a product image of Comparative Example 1, and the right side is a product image of Example 1; comparison images of the products obtained in Examples 1-3 after washing are shown below. Figures 5-7 As shown, Figure 5 In the image, the left side shows a product that has been washed 10 times, and the right side shows a product that has been washed 30 times. Figure 6 and Figure 7 In the image, the left side shows a product that has been washed 30 times, and the right side shows a product that has been washed 10 times.

[0037] Table 1. Results of anti-wrinkle performance testing for the products in the examples and comparative examples.

[0038] Combining Table 1 and Figures 1-7 It can be seen that, compared with Example 1, Comparative Example 1 did not undergo liquid ammonia treatment, from Figure 1The longitudinal optical micrographs show that the wool scales are clearer than those obtained with the liquid ammonia process, while the viscose fibers are shriveled, have a dry feel, lack luster, and exhibit reduced dimensional stability and wrinkle resistance. This demonstrates that liquid ammonia treatment can effectively improve the feel, luster, dimensional stability, and wrinkle resistance of wool fabrics.

[0039] Compared with Example 1, Comparative Example 2 used ordinary shrink-resistant wool 80S. Figure 2 From the longitudinal optical micrograph, it is coarser and stiffer than the 100S mercerized anti-shrinkage bleached merino wool from Australia, with more obvious scales, pilling, and slightly less luster. It feels itchy against the skin. After 30 washes, the fabric is slightly heavier, which proves that the better the scale layer treatment, the finer the wool and the weaker the itchy feeling.

[0040] Compared with Example 1, Comparative Example 3 reduced the wool content and increased the viscose and polyester content. The results showed that with increased viscose, the hand feel became softer and less elastic, and the pilling and fuzzing properties deteriorated. Figure 3 Longitudinal optical micrographs show that the fibers in the napped areas are mostly viscose and polyester. The wrinkle resistance, dimensional stability, and color after washing are all greatly affected, proving that the product made by using a reasonable ratio of wool, viscose, and polyester has good wrinkle resistance and anti-pilling properties. However, when the content of viscose and polyester increases, the napping and pilling properties become significantly worse.

[0041] Compared with Example 1, Comparative Example 4 did not undergo the steaming process, and its hand elasticity was significantly reduced, the hand felt was thinner, and the dimensional stability after washing was worse, proving that steaming has the effect of improving the hand feel and dimensional stability of wool fabrics.

Claims

1. A preparation process for a wrinkle-resistant, machine-washable dyed wool fabric, characterized in that, The process includes spinning and wool fabric production. The spinning process includes the following steps: wool mixing → carding → pre-drawing → drawing → roving → spinning → winding → twisting. The wool fabric production process includes the following steps: colored yarn warping → sizing → weaving → singeing → desizing → liquid ammonia → stretching → pre-shrinking → steaming. The spinning process uses wool, polyester, and viscose as blended raw materials, with the wool being mercerized, shrink-resistant, and bleached wool tops; the spinning method is compact Sirospun; in the weaving process, the fabric structure is 2 / 2 twill, with a warp density of 90-100 yarns / inch and a weft density of 80-85 yarns / inch. The mass percentages of each component in the blended raw material are as follows: wool 45-50%, polyester 25-30%, and viscose 25-30%.

2. The preparation process of the wrinkle-resistant, machine-washable dyed wool fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The mercerized, shrink-resistant, bleached wool tops are mercerized, shrink-resistant, drawn-cut merino Australian bleached wool tops with a fiber diameter of 15~17μm and a fiber length of 35~40mm; the viscose is solution-dyed viscose with a fiber length of 35~40mm and a fiber fineness of 1.3~1.5D; the polyester is solution-dyed polyester with a fiber length of 35~40mm and a fiber fineness of 1.3~1.5D.

3. The preparation process of the wrinkle-resistant, machine-washable dyed wool fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The compact Siro-spun yarn has a count of 50-60 and a single yarn twist of 28-31 T / in, with a ply twist of 16-22 T / in.

4. The preparation process of the wrinkle-resistant, machine-washable dyed wool fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the sizing process, the raw materials for the sizing agent, by weight, are: 10-15 kg of polyvinyl alcohol, 10-15 kg of polyacrylamide, 90-100 kg of modified starch, and 3-5 kg ​​of wax flakes, and the mass concentration of the sizing solution is 6-9%. During the sizing process, the temperature of the sizing tank is controlled at 90-95℃, the tension of a single warp beam on the warp beam is 0.2-0.3 N, the relative elongation of the warp yarns in the auxiliary pre-drying section is controlled at 0.3-0.5%, and the pressing force of the main pressing is 15-20 kN.

5. The preparation process of the wrinkle-resistant, machine-washable dyed wool fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the singeing process, the burner position is selected as the cutting burner, the flame intensity is 8~10mbar, and the machine speed is 90~100m / min.

6. The preparation process of the wrinkle-resistant, machine-washable dyed wool fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The conditions for the desizing process are as follows: steaming box temperature 90~95℃, steaming box stacking time 5~8min, machine speed 60~70m / min, washing tank temperature 90~95℃, and the following are added to the desizing working solution: high temperature desizing enzyme: 20~30g / L, penetrant: 3~5g / L, refining agent: 20~30g / L.

7. The preparation process of the wrinkle-resistant, machine-washable yarn-dyed wool fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The liquid ammonia process conditions are as follows: liquid ammonia processing machine tension 50~60N, water washing tank with roller drive, machine speed 20~30m / min, water washing tank temperature 50~60℃.

8. The preparation process of the wrinkle-resistant, machine-washable dyed wool fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The conditions for the tenter frame process are as follows: 2-5 g / L of tenter frame acid-base stabilizer and 10-30 g / L of eco-friendly softener are added to the tenter frame working fluid; the temperature of the tenter frame drying room is 100-130℃; the machine speed is 50-70 m / min; the rolling mill pressure is 20-30 N / cm; and the overfeed is 3.0-3.5%.

9. The preparation process of the wrinkle-resistant, machine-washable dyed wool fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The pre-shrinking process conditions are: steam humidification, rubber blanket temperature 100~130℃, felt blanket temperature 100~130℃, pressure distance 14~16mm, and machine speed 30~50m / min.

10. The preparation process of the wrinkle-resistant, machine-washable, dyed wool fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The conditions for the steaming process are as follows: heating steaming roller temperature 100~130℃, steam temperature in steam tank 100~130℃, heating steaming roller pressure 2.0~2.5 bar, steam pressure in steam tank 1.0~1.5 bar, steam tank sealing pressure 0.5~1 bar, conveyor belt speed 10~15 m / min, pneumatic tension of the felt set to 30~40%, electric tension of the felt set to 5~10%, and cooling guide belt tension set to 5~10%.

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