Coloring cosmetic preparation

Abstract

Coloring cosmetic preparation comprising the following cosmetic raw materials designated by INCI: - Pullulan and - water-insoluble cellulose from Bambusa Arundinacea stems and at least one iron oxide pigment, wherein the total amount of iron oxide pigment, based on the total amount of the preparation, is 10 to 50% by mass, wherein the cosmetic preparation comprises a single-phase aqueous phase as the liquid phase and pigments and optional fillers are present as a dispersed phase in the aqueous phase.

Description

[0001] The invention relates to a coloring cosmetic preparation and its use.

[0002] The desire to look good and to use make-up to support this desire has existed almost as long as humanity has existed. Especially in this day and age, looking good embodies success, health and joie de vivre. There are many cosmetics that decoratively enhance human skin. The aim here is for the cosmetics to be highly durable when worn on the skin for several hours and to adhere permanently to the application site without losing colour intensity, even under environmental influences such as rainy weather. To meet this desire, synthetic polymeric film formers have been used so far. These film-forming substances based on acrylic acid or polyurethane have a high level of adhesion to the skin and adhere to the skin itself, thus permanently fixing the colour at the application site.

[0003] However, with increasing body and environmental awareness, the demand for natural cosmetics-compatible preparations that avoid synthetic raw materials or use them only in low concentrations when absolutely necessary has been growing for years. Film formers based on natural raw materials, such as polysaccharides, including pullulan, which are characterized by high hydrophilicity and thus water solubility, are used as alternatives to synthetic polymeric film formers. For example, DE 2448868 A1 describes cosmetic preparations, such as eye shadow, that use pullulan as a water-soluble film former. However, such compositions have disadvantages with regard to the water resistance or water resistance of the cosmetic preparations and therefore do not meet the requirements for long-lasting, water-resistant cosmetic preparations with high water resistance.

[0004] WO 2012 / 012084 A2 describes a naturally derived, polymeric hair fixative system suitable for use in commercial mascara compositions. The hair fixative system comprises a natural, polymeric film-forming system comprising pullulan and candelilla wax, and a naturally derived emollient system comprising one or more rosin resins and / or rosin derivatives and a sebacic acid / castor oil copolymer. The hair fixative system is free of synthetic film formers, heavy metals, crosslinking ingredients, catalysts, and complexes that can be harmful to the user and the environment. This hair fixative system enables a natural approach to mascara formulation without the disadvantages of shellac-based systems, systems based solely on pullulan, or synthetic systems.

[0005] It is an object of the invention to provide a coloring cosmetic preparation which is characterized by the use of natural film-forming substances and yet has excellent coloring, permanently adhesive properties as well as high water resistance or even water resistance.

[0006] This problem is solved by the features of the independent claims. The dependent claims contain advantageous developments and refinements of the invention.

[0007] Accordingly, the problem is solved by a coloring cosmetic preparation containing the following two cosmetic raw materials, designated by their INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) names: pullulan and water-insoluble cellulose. Surprisingly, it has been shown that the water resistance and often also the water resistance of the cosmetic preparation can be significantly improved by adding the water-insoluble polysaccharide cellulose when using pullulan as a water-soluble film-forming substance. The water resistance or water resistance is determined as described in the experimental section.

[0008] According to the present invention, “water-insoluble cellulose” is understood to mean a cellulose (INCI) which has a water binding capacity of a maximum of 3.8% + / - 1.0% g Wasser / G CelluloseThe water-binding capacity is measured according to AACC. The cellulose used according to the invention is therefore not a hydrocolloid, like typical cellulose types used as thickeners, and thus has essentially no water-thickening properties. Furthermore, the cellulose used according to the invention is in particular in fiber form with an average fiber length of approximately 20 µm and is obtained from Bambusa Arundinacea stems. Suitable water-insoluble celluloses are available at the time of application, for example, under the trade name "SENSOCEL® bc 20" from CFF GmbH & Co. KG.

[0009] The water binding capacity of a potentially used cellulose is determined as follows: Weigh 2.00 g of cellulose into a centrifuge beaker with a capacity of at least 50 ml. 40.00 g of distilled water are added. The centrifuge beaker is then closed and left untouched for 10 minutes. The beaker is placed in a centrifuge and centrifuged for 15 minutes at 1000 g. A filter paper (8 µm pore size) is then placed in a Buchner funnel, which is connected to an Erlenmeyer flask, and a vacuum is applied. The centrifuge beaker is inverted over the filter and held for one minute, until no more liquid drips. The aspirated liquid is reweighed.

[0010] The water binding capacity of cellulose is calculated using the following formula: wbc in %=((a−b) / c*100%

[0011] Where a is the weighed water, b is the reweighed water, c is the amount of cellulose material and wbc is the water binding capacity.

[0012] It is further surprising that the above advantageous effect is only sufficiently evident for those cosmetic preparations which contain at least one iron oxide pigment, the total amount of iron oxide pigment being 10 to 50% by mass, based on the total amount of the preparation.

[0013] In other words, this means that the coloring cosmetic preparation according to the invention comprises the raw material combination of pullulan, water-insoluble cellulose, and iron oxide. Pullulan is a water-soluble polysaccharide produced from starch by cultivating yeast. It is known as a film-forming substance for cosmetic preparations, but according to the invention, it can only achieve sufficient water resistance or even water resistance in combination with water-insoluble cellulose, which is a water-insoluble powder obtained from Bamboo Arundinacea stems and has so far only been known as an abrasive, for example, in face powders and cleansing cosmetics. This is provided that at least one iron oxide pigment is present as the coloring substance in the specified amount.

[0014] According to the invention, an iron oxide pigment is understood to be a coloring pigment comprising at least one iron oxide. Common iron oxide pigments used in cosmetics include, for example, yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, black iron oxide, and mixtures thereof. The iron oxide pigments used in cosmetics are often also named by their color indices (CI) and include CI 77489, CI 77491, CI 77492, and CI 77499. The iron oxide pigments used according to the invention also include hydrophilically or hydrophobically modified iron oxides, but not so-called pearlescent pigments, which comprise only a very thin iron oxide layer and, for example, one or more layers of mica or borosilicate.

[0015] The amount of iron oxide pigment used according to the invention to impart not only a good coloring effect but also high water resistance or even waterfastness to the coloring cosmetic preparation is at least 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic preparation. There is essentially no upper limit to the amount of iron oxide pigment. However, in order to maintain sufficient flowability of the cosmetic preparation, which is also crucial for homogeneous color release with a uniform layer thickness, the total content of all iron oxide pigments is a maximum of 50% by mass, also based on the total amount of the cosmetic preparation. If several iron oxide pigments are used in combination, the specified amounts and amount ranges apply to all iron oxide pigments combined, i.e., the sum of all iron oxide pigments.

[0016] In addition to the raw material combination essential to the invention, the cosmetic preparation according to the invention may contain other raw materials that are customary for cosmetic preparations, such as water, solvents, stabilizers, antioxidants, preservatives, care additives, flavors, perfume, and the like. Furthermore, other non-iron oxide-containing pigments or other coloring substances, such as dyes, pearlescent pigments, and non-iron oxide-based pigments (e.g., TiO2), may also be used to produce a desired color.

[0017] It has been shown that the cosmetic preparation according to the invention produces a stable, abrasion-resistant color film on the application area, which is not only characterized by good and lasting stability, but also exhibits high water resistance or even water resistance. The water resistance and water resistance are determined as described in the experimental section.

[0018] Furthermore, it has been found that very small amounts of the essential raw materials in cosmetic preparations are sufficient to achieve the desired effects. It is assumed that the raw materials complement each other in their effects, and the desired durability, water resistance, and water resistance are achieved through the synergistic action of pullulan, water-insoluble cellulose, and iron oxide pigment.

[0019] The amount of pullulan, based on the total amount of the preparation, is preferably 0.5 to 5 mass%. If the amount of pullulan is below 0.5 mass%, very high water resistance or even water resistance cannot be achieved in all cases, for example with any color, or with very low amounts of iron oxide pigment of around 10 mass%. Therefore, the minimum amount of pullulan used is particularly advantageously 1 mass% or even 1.5 mass%. At pullulan contents of more than 5 mass%, however, no significant increase in the water resistance or water resistance of the cosmetic preparation can be determined. In light of a reduction in raw material costs for the cosmetic preparation, the maximum amount of pullulan is therefore in particular 4 mass% and more advantageously 3 mass%. Particularly suitable amounts of pullulan are 1 to 4 mass% and in particular 1.5 to 3 mass%.

[0020] Due to the synergistic interaction of the raw materials, even very small amounts of water-insoluble cellulose are sufficient according to the invention to achieve very good water resistance or even water resistance with high stability of the applied paint film. Advantageously, the amount of water-insoluble cellulose, based on the total amount of the preparation, is 0.75 to 7% by mass. Below 0.75% by mass, particularly high water resistance or even water resistance cannot be achieved with some manufactured paints. Therefore, the amount of water-insoluble cellulose is advantageously in a range of 1 to 5% by mass and especially in a range of 2 to 4% by mass. With a water-insoluble cellulose content of at least 2% by mass, not only water resistance or water resistance but also dry abrasion resistance is improved.Amounts of water-insoluble cellulose exceeding 4% by mass, or even exceeding 5% and 7% by mass, should preferably be avoided, taking into account the beneficial effects on water resistance and water resistance against the negative effects on the stability of the preparation and its raw material costs. Particularly preferred amounts of water-insoluble cellulose are in the range of 1 to 5% by mass, and in particular in the range of 2 to 4% by mass.

[0021] As already explained, it has been found that sufficient water resistance or waterfastness cannot be achieved for the coloring cosmetic preparation if the total content of iron oxide pigments is below 10% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic preparation. The water resistance can advantageously be further improved by the total amount of iron oxide pigment, based on the total amount of the preparation, being at least 14% by mass. To further increase the water resistance and thus also enhance the waterfastness, it is advantageous if the minimum amount of iron oxide pigment used is 20% by mass. Even more preferably, the minimum amount of iron oxide pigment used is 25% by mass. This not only increases the color depth and opacity of the preparation, but also significantly improves its waterfastness.To improve the flowability and homogeneity of the opacity of the preparation, the total amount of iron oxide pigment, based on the total amount of the preparation, is in particular a maximum of 40% by mass and in particular a maximum of 30% by mass. This results in the following preferred ranges of iron oxide pigment quantities: 10 to 50% by mass, 10 to 40% by mass, 10 to 30% by mass, 14 to 50% by mass, 14 to 40% by mass, 14 to 30% by mass, 20 to 50% by mass, 20 to 40% by mass, 20 to 30% by mass, 25 to 50% by mass, 25 to 40% by mass, and 25 to 30% by mass.

[0022] To adapt the flowability of the cosmetic preparation to the desired application form, the preparation can preferably further comprise at least one natural hydrocolloid thickener. Common hydrocolloid thickeners include xanthan gum, gum arabic, various types of cellulose, dextrin, gelatin, carrageenan, and the like. Caesalpinia spinosa gum is also considered a hydrocolloid thickener. However, the use of Caesalpinia spinosa gum in the coloring cosmetic preparation has shown, in addition to the desired rheological adaptation of the preparation, another unexpected beneficial effect: the dry abrasion resistance of the preparation could be significantly improved even with small amounts of Caesalpinia spinosa gum.

[0023] To increase the dry abrasion resistance of the preparation, very small amounts of Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum are sufficient. Very good results have been achieved when the Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum content, based on the total amount of the preparation, is 0.05 to 0.8% by mass, in particular 0.1 to 0.5% by mass, and especially 0.15 to 0.3% by mass. Amounts exceeding 0.8% by mass can, in some cases, have a detrimental effect on the flow properties of the preparation, so amounts of a maximum of 0.5% by mass or even only 0.3% by mass are preferred.

[0024] Further advantageous in terms of improving the stability of the preparation, particularly during storage and transport, is that the preparation comprises at least one glycol, wherein the glycol comprises a total of 4 to 8 carbon atoms, and in particular 4 to 6 carbon atoms, and is in particular pentylene glycol (INCI). Without being bound to any theory, it is assumed that "long-chain" glycols with at least 4 hydrocarbons have a stabilizing effect on the water-insoluble cellulose, which is thus better kept in suspension, prevents settling, and thus allows the cosmetic preparation to fully exert its film-forming properties even after extended storage times.

[0025] Further stabilization of the cosmetic preparation, and in particular also of high iron oxide pigment contents, can advantageously be achieved by adding triheptanoin, wherein the amount of triheptanoin, based on the total amount of the preparation, is in particular 1 to 10% by mass, in particular 2 to 8% by mass, and in particular 3 to 5% by mass. The optimal amount can be selected in light of the amount of iron oxide pigment used.

[0026] Furthermore, a humectant can be used to improve the wear properties of the coloring cosmetic preparation. The addition of glycerin has proven particularly beneficial in combination with triheptanoin, with both raw materials together improving the settling stability of the preparation particularly well. The amount of glycerin, based on the total amount of the preparation, is advantageously in particular 1 to 8% by mass, in particular 2 to 6% by mass, and in particular 2.5 to 4% by mass.

[0027] To improve market acceptance and in light of environmentally and body-conscious use of raw materials, the preparation is preferably free of polymeric synthetic components. Polymeric synthetic components are, in particular, those produced by synthesis from monomers through a polymerization reaction, i.e., in particular, through radical polymerization, polyaddition reaction, or polycondensation reaction, and comprise at least two interconnected monomers. Polymeric synthetic components that are to be excluded from the cosmetic preparation and thus not added thereto comprise at least one acrylic acid-based unit and / or one urethane-based unit and / or one unit derived from a vinyl compound and / or one unit derived from a silicone.An acrylic acid-based unit can, in the simplest case, be (meth)acrylic acid or can also comprise one or more (meth)acrylic acid esters. A urethane-based unit can be formed from any diol with any isocyanate. A unit derived from a vinyl compound can be, for example, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, or styrene. A unit derived from a silicone can be polydimethylsiloxane or trimethylsiloxysilicate. All of the polymeric synthetic components mentioned here are usually listed in the literature as film formers and possibly also as thickeners. Due to their synthetic nature, they are not suitable for preparations that comply with natural cosmetics standards, as is the aim of the coloring cosmetic preparation according to the invention.

[0028] For the above reason, the coloring cosmetic preparation is preferably also free of silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils. Silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils commonly used in cosmetics are well known and include linear and cyclic compounds that may be volatile or non-volatile under application temperatures and pressures, such as cyclopentasiloxanes, cyclotetrasiloxanes, cyclohexasiloxanes, disiloxanes, trisiloxanes, tetrasiloxanes, isododecanes, paraffins, isoparaffins, and the like. These are preferably not added to the coloring cosmetic preparation.

[0029] Due to the very good applicability and application properties as well as the outstanding shelf life, the liquid phase of the preparation is a single-phase aqueous, i.e. water-containing, phase, and the pigments and optional fillers are present as a dispersed phase in the aqueous phase. In other words, the coloring cosmetic preparation is preferably in the form of a two-phase dispersion, in which the first phase is an aqueous continuous phase and the second phase is a particulate phase, and thus the pigments and any optional fillers are present as a dispersed phase in the aqueous phase. It is therefore not an emulsion in which two liquid, immiscible phases are distributed within one another. Rather, any supernatant of the liquids used in the preparation is transparent and single-phase (aqueous) after upright storage.

[0030] In addition to the explicitly listed raw materials, the above-mentioned coloring cosmetic preparation may comprise other commonly used cosmetic raw materials, such as water, other solvents, including in particular ethanol, antioxidants, preservatives, stabilizers, pH agents, care additives, perfume, flavors, and others. Examples include coco-glucosides as stabilizers and coco-caprylates / caprates as skin softeners.

[0031] The coloring cosmetic preparation disclosed above is not limited in its applicability. Examples of applications include skin make-up and make-up for application to mucous membranes and semi-mucous membranes. Examples of cosmetic products that comprise the preparation according to the invention are eyeliners, lip liners, lipsticks, blushers, eyebrow liners, foundations, body tattoos, and the like. However, the coloring cosmetic preparation is particularly suitable for eyeliners and lip liners, which is attributable to its particularly good water resistance and very good color depth.

[0032] Thus, the invention further discloses the use of the coloring cosmetic preparation for making up skin and / or mucous membranes and / or semi-mucous membranes and in particular for use as eyeliner and lip liner. - Examples -

[0033] Unless otherwise stated, the quantities given are in mass%, based on the total mass of the preparation.

[0034] The respective cosmetic preparations for the tests were prepared as follows: All raw materials except the pigments (e.g., iron oxide pigment black CI 77499) were weighed into a beaker and mixed by stirring until a homogeneous mass was formed. The pigments were then added and the mixture was homogenized with an Ultraturrax at the highest setting for 2 minutes. A black liquid was formed.

[0035] The waterproof test was carried out as follows: Ten volunteers of different sexes and ages were asked to clean their forearms with soap and water. Five test areas of 1 cm each were then applied to each mass to be examined. 2The mixture was applied to each forearm of a subject. The mixture was allowed to dry for 15 minutes. Each test area of ​​the first forearm of a subject was then sprayed with a water jet (35 °C + / - 1 °C; flow rate: 3.2 l / min; distance between water nozzle and test area: 10 cm; water jet diameter: 6 mm) for five minutes, ensuring that the test area was completely rinsed with water. The test areas of the subject's second forearm served as a reference and were not rinsed with water.

[0036] A visual assessment of the test areas was then carried out: 1 stands for very waterproof 2 stands for partially waterproof 3 means not waterproof.

[0037] Grading was done in 0.1 increments.

[0038] For the tests performed in Table 1, a value of up to 1.2 was sufficient for very good water resistance. If a value of up to 1.2 was achieved, no water resistance test was performed to determine water resistance.

[0039] The differences between the “Waterproof Test” and the “Water Resistance Test” were that in the “Water Resistance Test” the water only had a temperature of 25 °C + / - 1 °C and the test surfaces were immersed in the standing, temperate water for 1 minute. 1 stands for very water resistant 2 stands for partially water resistant 3 stands for not water resistant.

[0040] The gradation was done in increments of 0.1. A value of 1.2 or less was considered sufficient for water resistance.

[0041] If the “waterproof test” was positive, no “water resistance test” was carried out.

[0042] To conduct the preliminary test, test areas were applied to the forearms of a volunteer as for the waterproof test and allowed to dry for 15 minutes. The test areas of one forearm were then rinsed with warm water at 25°C + / - 1°C for 1 minute. If this preliminary test revealed no difference between the test areas rinsed with water and the test areas not rinsed with water, a waterproof test and / or a water resistance test were conducted. If visually detectable differences were found, a waterproof test or a water resistance test could be omitted. Example 1: Effects of water-insoluble cellulose and pullulan

[0043] The following Table 1 provides an overview of the tests carried out for Example 1. Table 1: Experiment number V1 Comparison experiment 1 V2 Comparison experiment 2 black 9000036858 black 9000041035 black 9000041036 black 9000041093 INCI - EU Value in mass% Value in mass% Value in mass% Value in mass% CI 77499 26,50 26,50 26,50 26,50 Aqua 40,44 42,44 41,44 43,04 Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Water 10,00 10,00 10,00 10,00 Pentylene Glycol 5,50 5,50 5,50 5,50 Triheptanoin 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00 Glycerin 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 Alcohol (Ethanol) 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 water-insoluble cellulose* 2,60 2,60 2,60 0,00 Pullulan 2,00 0,00 1,00 2,00 Coco-Caprylate / Caprate 1,20 1,20 1,20 1,20 Coco-Glucoside + Aqua 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 Phenylpropanol 0,60 0,60 0,60 0,60 Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum 0,15 0,15 0,15 0,15 Silica 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01 Total raw materials (mass%) 100,00 100,00 100,00 100,00 Preliminary test (good / bad) good bad good poor & heavy dry abrasion Water resistance (1=very good, 2=good, 3=poor) 1,2 3,0 1,2 2,5 * SENSOCEL® bc20 from CFF GmbH & Co. KG was used as water-insoluble cellulose

[0044] As can be seen from Table 1, even small amounts of water-insoluble cellulose and small amounts of pullulan are sufficient to achieve very good water resistance. Example 2: Effects of the amount of iron oxide pigment

[0045] Table 2 provides an overview of the tests carried out with different iron oxide pigment contents. Table 2: Experiment number V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 Comparison experiment 3 Comparison experiment 4 black 9000033517 black 9000036858 brown 9000036912 BOPS 9000036946 PR 9000038375 PB 90000-36709 BOPG 90000-38393 INCI - EU Value in % Value in % Value in % Value in % Value in % Value in % Value in % CI 77499 26,50 26,50 14,50 14,00 9,00 8,50 - CI 77491 - - 11,10 - 2,00 - - CI 77492 - - 0,20 - - - 0,50 Mica + CI 77891 - - - 6,00 - - - CI 77891 - - - 1,00 0,60 - - Calcium Sodium Borosilicate + CI 77891 + Tin Oxide - - - 4,00 0,00 - - CI 77491 + Silica - - - - 7,00 - - Mica + CI 77891 - - - - 1,50 1,00 - CI 77510 - - - - 1,30 4,00 - CI 77007 - - - - 0,90 6,00 - Mica + CI 77891 + CI 77510 - - - - - 3,50 - Calcium Sodium Borosilicate + CI 77492 + Silica + CI 77891 + Tin Oxide - - - - - - 11,00 Mica + CI 77891 + CI 77491 - - - - - - 9,50 Aqua 50,45 40,44 40,95 41,94 44,35 42,95 45,45 Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Water 0,00 10,00 10,00 10,00 10,00 10,00 10,00 Pentylene Glycol 5,50 5,50 5,50 5,50 5,50 5,50 5,50 Triheptanoin 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00 Glycerin 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 Alcohol (Ethanol) 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 water-insoluble cellulose* 2,60 2,60 2,60 2,60 2,60 2,60 2,60 Pullulan 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 Experiment number V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 Comparison experiment 3 Comparison experiment 4 black 9000033517 black 9000036858 brown 9000036912 BOPS 9000036946 PR 9000038375 PB 90000-36709 BOPG 90000-38393 Coco-Caprylate / Caprate 1,20 1,20 1,20 1,20 1,20 1,20 1,20 Coco-Glucoside + Aqua 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 Phenylpropanol 0,60 0,60 0,60 0,60 0,60 0,60 0,60 Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum + Aqua 0,15 0,15 0,15 0,15 0,15 0,15 0,15 Silica 0,00 0,01 0,20 0,01 0,30 1,00 0,50 Total raw materials (mass%) 100,00 100,00 100,00 100,00 100,00 100,00 100,00 Total iron oxide pigments (mass%) 26,50 26,50 25,80 14,00 11,00 8,50 0,50 Water resistance (1=very good, 2=good, 3=poor) 1,2 1,2 1,2 2,3 2,7 3,0 3,0 Water resistance (1=very good, 2=good, 3=poor) - - - 1,2 1,2 2,6 3,0 * SENSOCEL® bc20 from CFF GmbH & Co. KG was used as water-insoluble cellulose

[0046] The iron oxide pigments used in the experiments for Example 2 were CI 77499, CI 77491 and CI 77492. All other pigments were either pearlescent pigments or titanium dioxide (CI 77891) and therefore do not count among the iron oxide pigments used in the invention.

[0047] Table 2 above shows that an iron oxide pigment content of at least 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the preparation, is required to achieve very good water resistance (see V7 compared to comparative tests 3 and 4). Increasing the iron oxide pigment content from, for example, 11% by mass to 14% by mass (see V6 and V7) can also lead to a better result in the waterproof test due to the increased iron oxide pigment content. Iron oxide pigment contents of more than 25% by mass again led to a significant improvement in water resistance (see tests V3 to V5). Example 3: Effects of Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum

[0048] Table 3 provides an overview of an experiment in which the effect of Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum was investigated. Table 3: Experiment number V 8 V9 black 9000036858 black 9000041041 INCI - EU Value in % Value in % CI 77499 26,50 26,50 Aqua 40,44 40,59 Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Water 10,00 10,00 Pentylene Glycol 5,50 5,50 Triheptanoin 4,00 4,00 Glycerin 3,00 3,00 Alcohol (Ethanol) 3,00 3,00 Cellulose (water-insoluble) * 2,60 2,60 Pullulan 2,00 2,00 Coco-Caprylate / Caprate 1,20 1,20 Coco-Glucoside + Aqua 1,00 1,00 Phenylpropanol 0,60 0,60 Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum 0,15 0,00 Silica 0,01 0,01 Total raw materials (mass%) 100,00 100,00 Preliminary test (good / bad) good moderate but not dry abrasion resistant Water resistance (1=very good, 2=good, 3=poor 1,2 1,2 * SENSOCEL® bc20 from CFF GmbH & Co. KG was used as water-insoluble cellulose

[0049] Tests 8 and 9 demonstrate the influence of Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum. In Test 8, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum acted as a hydrocolloid thickener. At the low application rate of 0.15% by mass, there was virtually no effect on the rheology of the colorant. However, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum significantly improved the dry abrasion resistance of the colorant cosmetic preparation. Water resistance remained very good.

[0050] The above examples demonstrate that the coloring cosmetic preparation according to the invention, which comprises pullulan and water-insoluble cellulose as film-forming substances and at least one iron oxide pigment as pigment, with the total amount of iron oxide pigment, based on the total amount of the preparation, being 10 to 50% by mass, exhibits very good water resistance and waterfastness while dispensing with any synthetic polymeric film former. The preparation is characterized by a composition compliant with natural cosmetics standards and thus by high market acceptance and sustainability.

Claims

[1] Colouring cosmetic preparation comprising the following cosmetic raw materials designated by INCI: - Pullulan and - water-insoluble cellulose from Bambusa Arundinacea stems and at least one iron oxide pigment, wherein the total amount of iron oxide pigment, based on the total amount of the preparation, is 10 to 50% by mass, wherein the cosmetic preparation comprises a single-phase aqueous phase as the liquid phase and pigments and optional fillers are present as a dispersed phase in the aqueous phase. [2] Coloring cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, wherein the amount of pullulan, based on the total amount of the preparation, is 0.5 to 5 mass%, in particular 1 to 4 mass% and in particular 1.5 to 3 mass%. [3] Coloring cosmetic preparation according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of water-insoluble cellulose, based on the total amount of the preparation, is 0.75 to 7 mass%, in particular 1 to 5 mass% and in particular 2 to 4 mass%. [4] Coloring cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of iron oxide pigment, based on the total amount of the preparation, is at least 14% by mass, in particular at least 20% by mass and in particular at least 25% by mass, wherein the total amount of iron oxide pigment, based on the total amount of the preparation, is in particular at most 40% by mass and in particular at most 30% by mass. [5] Coloring cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one natural hydrocolloid thickener, in particular Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum. [6] Coloring cosmetic preparation according to claim 5, wherein the hydrocolloid thickener is Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, and the amount of Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, based on the total amount of the preparation, is 0.05 to 0.8 mass%, in particular 0.1 to 0.5 mass% and in particular 0.15 to 0.3 mass%. [7] Coloring cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one glycol, wherein the glycol comprises a total of 4 to 8 carbon atoms and in particular 4 to 6 carbon atoms and is in particular pentylene glycol. [8] Coloring cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising triheptanoin, wherein the amount of triheptanoin, based on the total amount of the preparation, is in particular 1 to 10 mass%, in particular 2 to 8 mass% and in particular 3 to 5 mass%. [9] Coloring cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising glycerol, wherein the amount of glycerol, based on the total amount of the preparation, is in particular 1 to 8 mass%, in particular 2 to 6 mass% and in particular 2.5 to 4 mass%. [10] Coloring cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the preparation is free from polymeric synthetic components, wherein the polymeric synthetic components comprise in particular at least one acrylic acid-based unit and / or one urethane-based unit and / or one vinyl compound-derived unit and / or one silicone-derived unit. [11] Colouring cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the preparation is free from silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils. [12] Use of the coloring cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims for making up skin and / or mucous membrane and / or semi-mucous membrane. [13] Use of the coloring cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to 11 as eyeliner or as lip liner.