Restructuring hair treatment agent

Abstract

Hair treatment products containing (based on their weight) 0.01 to 5 wt% of at least one specific alpha-substituted compound and 0.01 - 5 wt% of at least one cationic guar polymer, which has an average molecular weight in the range of 2,000,000 to 3,500,000 g / mol, lead to restructuring or permanent or long-lasting internal structural strengthening of the keratin fibers as well as to a reduction of hair breakage or split ends.

Description

[0001] The invention relates to hair treatment agents with an active ingredient combination of specific alpha-substituted compounds and cationic guar polymers having an average molecular weight in the range of 2,000,000 to 3,500,000 g / mol, as well as the use of the agents for hair care.

[0002] Hair fibers can be damaged by excessive stress on hair, such as coloring, bleaching, or perming, as well as by frequent cleaning and drying, and by environmental pollution. Damage to hair fibers is easily noticeable visually and tactilely; for example, damaged hair fibers often lack shine, volume, and suppleness. Depending on the extent of the damage, damaged hair fibers feel dull or dry, and hair breakage and / or split ends may occur. The importance of care products with the longest possible effect is therefore constantly increasing.

[0003] Conventional or commercially available hair care products can repair the surface and, to some extent, the hair fibers, thereby achieving excellent care results. However, these care benefits are often only temporary and not long-lasting, as they can be washed out. Frequent care treatment is therefore necessary, especially for severely damaged hair fibers, which can result in an undesirable buildup effect due to overconditioning, which in turn leads to heavy and / or greasy hair.

[0004] The objective of this application was to provide skin-friendly and nourishing hair treatment products that can permanently repair and / or strengthen the inner structure of hair fibers. These nourishing hair treatment products should exhibit consistent conditioning performance and, in particular, not weigh down fine and / or damaged hair.

[0005] It has now been found that hair treatment agents based on certain alpha-substituted compounds and specific cationic guar polymers meet these requirements to a high degree.

[0006] They ensure permanent repair by penetrating deep into the hair fibers and creating new micro-bonds through chemical cross-linking. The hair's natural keratin is locked into the fibers, permanently repairing the hair.

[0007] The restructuring or strengthening of the inner hair structure through the use of hair treatment products based on the aforementioned combination of active ingredients is particularly clearly visible or verifiable through tests that show a significant reduction in protein loss from the hair fibers, as well as visibly reduced brittleness, breakage, and split ends. Hair treatment products based on the aforementioned combination of active ingredients also care for the hair fibers without weighing them down.

[0008] A further advantage of the active ingredient combination of specific alpha-substituted compounds and specific cationic guar polymers is its improved hair care potential, in particular increased smoothness, improved combability and feel of the hair fibers.

[0009] A first subject of the present invention are hair treatment compositions containing in a cosmetic carrier - based on their weight - a) 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one alpha-substituted compound of the general formula (I) R 2 -C(O)-CH(X)-R 1 (I), wherein • one of the residues R 1 or R 2 represents H and the other represents a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 1 to 15 carbon atoms, where the carbon chain may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl or amino groups, and • X represents -OH, -NH2, -Cl, -Br, -I or the following groups: -O-(CH2) n -CH3, where n is 1, 2, 3 or 4, and -O-(CH2) m -OH, where m is the number 1, 2 or 3, b) 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one cationic guar polymer having an average molecular weight in the range of 2,000,000 to 3,500,000 g / mol.

[0010] Hair treatment agents within the meaning of the present invention are understood to mean, in principle, all cosmetic agents suitable for use on human hair and the scalp and which are physiologically compatible. Depending on the care or repair needs, it may be preferable for the hair treatment agents according to the invention to be formulated as leave-on compositions. Hair treatments, hair oils, hair tonics, hair lotions, or hair serums may be particularly preferred in this context.

[0011] The hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain as the first essential ingredient 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one alpha-substituted compound of the general formula (I) R 2 -C(O)-CH(X)-R 1 (I), wherein • one of the residues R 1 or R 2represents H or a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 1 to 15 carbon atoms, where the carbon chain may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl or amino groups, and • X represents -OH, -NH2, -Cl, -Br, -I or the following groups: -O-(CH2) n -CH3, where n is 1, 2, 3 or 4, and -O-(CH2) m -OH, where m is the number 1, 2 or 3.

[0012] Preferred are alpha-substituted compounds of formula (I) in which one of the radicals R 1 , R 2 is H and the other is a saturated alkyl group having 1 to 15 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred compounds of formula (I) are those in which one of the radicals R 1 , R 2 for H and the other for a group -(CH2) o -CH3, where o represents the numbers 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

[0013] Most preferably, one of the residues R 1 or R 2 for H and the other for a butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl or octyl group.

[0014] Particularly preferably, one of the radicals R 1 or R 2 for H and the other for a hexyl group.

[0015] Also preferred are alpha-substituted compounds of formula (I) in which the substituent X represents a hydroxyl or an amino group. X particularly preferably represents a hydroxyl group.

[0016] According to a preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain alpha-substituted compounds of the general formula (I) in which • one of the residues R 1 , R 2 for H or for a group -(CH2) o -CH3, where o stands for the numbers 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, and • X represents a hydroxyl group.

[0017] Within this embodiment, alpha-substituted compounds of the general formula (I) are particularly preferred which are selected from alpha-hydroxybutanal, alpha-hydroxypentanal, alpha-hydroxyhexanal, alpha-hydroxyheptanal, alpha-hydroxyoctanal, alpha-hydroxybutanone, alpha-hydroxypentanone, alpha-hydroxyhexanone, alpha-hydroxyheptanone, alpha-hydroxyoctanone or mixtures thereof.

[0018] Particularly preferred are hair treatment compositions which contain as active ingredient a) alpha-hydroxyoctanal, alpha-hydroxyoctanone or mixtures thereof.

[0019] The hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain compounds according to the general formula (I) preferably in a weight proportion of 0.025 - 4 wt.%, more preferably 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.075 - 2 wt.% and in particular 0.1 - 1 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0020] Hair treatment compositions according to the invention particularly preferably contain alpha-hydroxyoctanal, alpha-hydroxyoctanone or mixtures thereof in the aforementioned amounts.

[0021] The hair treatment agents according to the invention contain as a second essential ingredient 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one cationic guar polymer b), which has an average molecular weight in the range of 2,000,000 to 3,500,000 g / mol.

[0022] Suitable cationic guar polymers b) are preferably understood to mean polymers known under the INCI name Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride with an average molecular weight in the range of 2,000,000 to 3,500,000 g / mol. The Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride preferably has an average molecular weight in the range of 2,200,000 to 3,300,000 g / mol, more preferably 2,300,000 to 2,900,000 g / mol, and particularly preferably 2,400,000 to 2,900,000 g / mol. The average molecular weight can be measured by any suitable means, as is well known to those skilled in the art. For example, static light scattering measurements can be performed using gel permeation chromatography (GPC). A suitable system is GPC-MALS (multi-angle light scattering).

[0023] Another characteristic of the Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride is its viscosity; suitably, the viscosity ranges from 600 to 1200 mPa, more preferably from 750 to 850 mPa. In all cases disclosed herein, the viscosity is the Brookfield RVT viscosity, measured at 25°C and 20 rpm, spindle 2, at a concentration of 1 part by weight in water.

[0024] A particularly preferred Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, which can be used as component b) in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention, is the product sold under the trade name Polycare ® Split product available from Solvay.

[0025] The hair treatment agents according to the invention contain the cationic guar polymer b) preferably in a weight proportion of 0.02 - 4 wt.%, more preferably 0.03 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.04 - 2 wt.% and in particular 0.05 - 1 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment agent.

[0026] Hair treatment agents in the sense of the present invention can be in solid or liquid forms, for example as - cosmetic cleansing compositions for the scalp and / or hair, such as cleansing powders or granules, soap bars, cleansing wipes, porous bodies (solid cleansing foams), hair shampoos, 2-in-1 hair care shampoos, anti-dandruff shampoos, hair colouring shampoos, hair cleansing conditioners, shower gels or combinations thereof, - cosmetic care compositions for the scalp and / or hair, such as hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair packs, hair oils, hair tonics, hair lotions, hair serums, etc. or combinations thereof, - cosmetic compositions for the temporary or permanent shaping or fixing of hair, such as hairsprays, permanent wave fixing solutions, hair setting lotions, hair setting preparations, hair styling preparations, blow-dry lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof, - temporary or permanent hair dyes.

[0027] Suitable hair treatment agents within the meaning of the present invention can be rinsed out with water after the intended application to the scalp and / or hair or can remain in or on it.

[0028] Depending on the intended use, the hair treatment agents according to the invention may contain further ingredients, preferably selected from one or more dyes, surfactants, polymers, thickeners, conditioning agents, opacifiers, pearlescent agents, anti-dandruff agents, active ingredients against hair loss, vitamins, antioxidants, UV filters, perfumes, preservatives and pH adjusters.

[0029] According to a preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are formulated as hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair lotions, or hair serums. These preparations can be rinsed out with water or an at least predominantly water-based product after a certain contact time; however, they are preferably left on the hair.

[0030] According to further embodiments, hair treatment compositions according to the invention can be formulated as cleansing compositions for the scalp and hair - such as a shampoo.

[0031] Solid hair treatment agents within the meaning of the present invention, such as powders, granules, soap bars, cleansing wipes, porous bodies (solid foams), are preferably moistened with water or soaked in water or dissolved in water before use, then foamed by rubbing between the hands or directly onto the scalp and / or hair, and rinsed out with water after use.

[0032] Liquid cleansing compositions such as hair shampoos, 2-in-1 hair care shampoos, anti-dandruff shampoos, hair coloring shampoos, hair cleansing conditioners, shower gels are mixed with water before use, if necessary, lathered onto the scalp and / or hair, and rinsed with water after use.

[0033] Liquid hair treatment compositions within the meaning of the present invention contain the active ingredient combination a) + b) described above, as well as optionally other active ingredients and excipients, preferably in a cosmetic or cosmetic carrier. Within the scope of the invention, this is preferably understood to mean an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier.

[0034] The cosmetic carrier contained in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably contains at least 20% by weight, more preferably at least 25-95% by weight, particularly preferably at least 30-95% by weight, and in particular 35-95% by weight of water. Furthermore, the cosmetic carrier may contain 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 30% by weight, and in particular 0.1 to 25% by weight of at least one alcohol.

[0035] Suitable alcohols are, for example, ethanol, ethyl diglycol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, triglycerin, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1, hexanol, 2-hexanol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sorbitan, benzyl alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols.

[0036] Water-soluble alcohols are particularly preferred. Ethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerin, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures of these alcohols are especially preferred.

[0037] The hair treatment compositions according to the invention may contain surfactant(s). Anionic surfactants have proven particularly effective in cleansing compositions (usually rinse-off compositions), while cationic surfactants are often used in conditioning compositions (rinse-off or leave-on compositions). Amphoteric and / or nonionic surfactants and / or emulsifiers are particularly advantageously used in both cleansing and care compositions due to their advantageous properties.

[0038] A preferred embodiment is characterized in that the hair treatment agent according to the invention additionally contains - based on its weight - 0.1 - 75 wt.% of at least one surfactant selected from anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic, cationic surfactants or mixtures thereof.

[0039] Within this embodiment, hair treatment agents according to the invention are preferred which are formulated as a cosmetic cleansing composition for the scalp and / or the hair and which are contained in a cosmetic carrier (based on their total weight) - 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one alpha-substituted compound according to formula (I) - 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one cationic guar polymer having an average molecular weight in the range of 2,000,000 to 3,500,000 g / mol, and - 0.1 - 75 wt.% of at least one anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, non-ionic surfactant or mixtures thereof, wherein ➢ solid cleaning compositions contain - based on their total weight - preferably 10 - 75 wt.%, more preferably 20 - 75 wt.% and in particular 25 - 70 wt.% of at least one anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, non-ionic surfactant or mixtures thereof, and ➢ liquid compositions contain - based on their total weight - preferably 0.5 - 30 wt.%, more preferably 1 - 25 wt.% and in particular 2 - 20 wt.% of at least one anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, non-ionic surfactant or mixtures thereof.

[0040] Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions formulated as a cleansing composition contain > 50% of at least one anionic surfactant (based on the total surfactant content). Very particularly preferred hair treatment compositions formulated as a cleansing composition contain 1-20% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant (based on the total surfactant content).

[0041] Suitable anionic surfactants and emulsifiers for the hair treatment compositions according to the invention include all anionic surface-active substances suitable for cosmetic use on the human or animal body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group with approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Additionally, the molecule may contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, as well as hydroxyl groups.

[0042] Particularly suitable anionic surfactant types that can be used in cosmetic products according to the invention include, for example: - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms (soaps), - Ethercarboxylic acids of the formula RO-(CH2-CH2O) x-CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear or e, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, - Acylsarcosides with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group (sarcosinate surfactants), - Acyltaurides with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group (taurate surfactants), - Acyl isethionates with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group (isethionate surfactants), - Acylglutamates with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group (glutamate surfactants) - sulfosuccinic acid mono- and / or dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups (sulfosuccinate surfactants), - Alpha-olefinsulfonates with 8 to 24 C atoms (alpha-olefinsulfonate surfactants), - Alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfate salts of the formula R-(OCH2-CH2)nO-SO3X, in which R is preferably a straight-chain or e, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms, x is the number 0 or 1 to 12 and X is an alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium or alkanolamine ion, - Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, - Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which are addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, and / or - Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula in which R 1 preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2 for hydrogen, a residue (CH2CH20) n R 1 or X, n for numbers from 0 to 10 and X for hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or the group - NR 3 R 4 R 5 R6 stands, with R 3 to R 6 independently of each other standing for a Ci to C4 hydrocarbon residue.

[0043] Very particular preference is given to alkyl sulfate and / or alkyl ether sulfate salts, (salts of) ether carboxylic acids, sarcosinates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates and / or alpha-olefin sulfonates, in particular alkyl sulfate and / or alkyl ether sulfate salts.

[0044] Particularly preferred are alkyl (ether) sulfates of the general formula R-(OCH2-CH2) n -OSO3X, in which R is a straight-chain or e, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, n is 0 or 1 to 12, and X is an alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, or alkanolamine ion. Other particularly suitable anionic surfactant types that can be used in cosmetic compositions according to the invention include biosurfactants.

[0045] These are substances that are formed by microorganisms and often excreted from the cell. Like classic surfactants, biosurfactants are surface-active substances that reduce the surface tension of liquids and thereby promote the mixing of aqueous (hydrophilic) and water-repellent (hydrophobic) phases. Biosurfactants can be produced under mild production conditions that require low energy consumption. They are generally readily biodegradable and have a very high environmental compatibility. Furthermore, they are non-toxic and no toxic by-products are generated during their production. The raw materials used for their microbial production are carbohydrates, particularly sugars such as glucose and / or lipophilic carbon sources such as fats, oils, partial glycerides, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and long-chain saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbons.According to the invention, the biosurfactants are preferably biosurfactants produced by fermentation.

[0046] Biosurfactants include glycolipids, lipopeptides, lipoproteins, fatty acids, phospholipids, neutral lipids and polymeric surfactants (e.g. Emulsan), all of which can also be used in the present invention.

[0047] Glycolipids that can be used in the present invention are compounds in which one or more monosaccharide units are glycosidically linked to a lipid moiety. Examples of glycolipids as biosurfactants that can be used according to the invention are rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, mannosylerythritol lipids, and trehalose lipids. Among these, rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, mannosylerythritol lipids, and combinations thereof are preferred.

[0048] Biosurfactants also include the group of substances known as lipids and lipid derivatives, which include, in particular, lipopeptides. Lipopeptides are generally synthesized nonribosomally by the respective microorganisms, for example, by Gram-positive bacteria, particularly the genera Bacillus and Streptomyces; by Gram-negative bacteria, particularly the genera Pseudomonas and myxobacteria; and by filamentous fungi. The peptide chains typically consist of two to forty amino acids and can be linear, cyclic, or branched. In contrast to ribosomally synthesized peptide chains, they often contain not only proteinogenic L-amino acids as monomeric building blocks, but also D-amino acids as well as carboxylic acids and / or alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids of all kinds. The amino acids are usually L-α- or D-α-amino acids, but β-, γ- or δ-amino acids can also be present, which can also be present in D- or L-configuration.The peptide chains can also exhibit further chemical modifications; in particular, they can be glycosylated, hydrolyzed, N-methylated, or N-formylated. Thiazoline and / or oxazoline rings in various oxidation states are also frequently occurring structural elements. A well-known lipopeptide biosurfactant is surfactin.

[0049] The hair treatment agents according to the invention can contain at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant and / or at least one nonionic surfactant. Hair treatment agents according to the invention that are formulated as a cleaning composition preferably contain 0-50%, particularly preferably 1-40%, and especially 5-30% of at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant and / or 0-50%, particularly preferably 1-40%, and especially 5-30% of at least one nonionic surfactant (in each case based on the total surfactant content).

[0050] Suitable zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants are those that carry both a cationic and an anionic charge in the molecule. Amphoteric surfactants preferably have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO - - or -SO3 --group, in addition to a preferably C8-C24 alkyl or acyl group, in the molecule. Furthermore, they are capable of forming internal salts. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are betaines such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines, each with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. Particularly preferred are the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants known under the INCI names Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Lauramidopropyl Betaine, Cocoampho(di)acetate and / or Lauroapho(di)acetate.

[0051] Suitable non-ionic surfactants and / or emulsifiers can be selected from amine oxides such as the compounds known under the INCI names Cocamine Oxide, Lauramine Oxide and Cocamidopropylamine Oxide, fatty acid alkanolamides such as the compounds known under the INCI names Cocamide MEA and Coamide DEA, mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols such as the commercially available product Montanov ® 68 or Montanov ® 202, sterols such as zoosterols and phytosterols, phospholipids, alkyl (oligo)glycosides such as the compounds known under the INCI names Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside, alkoxylated esters such as the compounds known under the INCI names PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate and PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor, polyglycerol esters and / or their salts.

[0052] The hair treatment agents according to the invention can contain cationic surfactant(s). Hair treatment agents according to the invention that are formulated as care compositions (hair conditioners) preferably contain at least one cationic surfactant. Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the (di-)esterquats of amidoamines, or mixtures thereof can be used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides, and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as in cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, and tricetylmethylammonium chloride.Other preferred cationic surfactants are those listed under the INCI names. - Quaternium-27, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87 and / or Quaternium-91 known imidazolium compounds - Distearoylethyl Dimonium methosulfate (or chloride), Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (or chloride), Dioleylisopropyl Dimonium methosulfate (or chloride), Dipalmitoyloisopropyl Dimonium methosulfate (or chloride) and / or Bis (Isostearoyl / oleyl isopropyl) Dimonium methosulfate (or chloride) known (Di)-Esterquats, which are commercially available from various suppliers, such as the commercial products Varisoft ® EQ 65 and Varisoft ® EQ 100 (Evonik) - Stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, Ricinamidopropyltrimonium chloride and / or Palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride known amidoamines, which are commercially available from various suppliers, for example the commercial product Varisoft ®PATC (Evonik).

[0053] Particularly preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention—in particular cosmetic agents for the care of hair and / or scalp—contain—based on their weight—preferably 0.1 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt.%, and in particular 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% of cationic surfactant(s). Hair treatment agents according to the invention most preferably contain cationic surfactants from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds and / or (di-)esterquats and / or amidoamines and / or imidazolium compounds in the aforementioned amounts.

[0054] In a further preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention can contain at least one further conditioning agent for hair and / or scalp in a proportion of 0-50% by weight based on the total weight of the respective composition. More preferred are amounts of 0.01-30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-25% by weight, and especially 0.1-20% by weight. The at least one conditioning agent can preferably be selected from - 0.1 - 50 wt.% fatty compound(s) and / or - 0.01 - 5 wt.% of b) different cationic polymer(s).

[0055] Suitable fatty compounds within the meaning of the present invention are preferably fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural or synthetic waxes, solid vegetable oils or vegetable butters, natural or synthetic cosmetic oils, silicones, ester oils, alkyl ethers, straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbons having 6 to 18 carbon atoms or mixtures thereof.

[0056] Cosmetic oils within the meaning of the present invention are understood to mean oil bodies that have a melting point of less than 50°C, particularly preferably less than 47°C, very particularly preferably less than 44°C, and most preferably less than 40°C. Most preferred are cosmetic oils that are flowable at a temperature of less than 40°C. Preferred cosmetic oils are natural, vegetable oils (=plant oils).

[0057] Vegetable oils (and / or butters) – even used in low concentrations – can, in combination with the active ingredient combination a) and b), further enhance the aforementioned conditioning benefits on the hair without causing a build-up effect with regular use. Furthermore, vegetable oils (and / or butters) in the conditioning ingredient mixture of the hair treatment products according to the invention further contribute to improving hair shine.

[0058] Examples of natural vegetable oils suitable according to the invention are amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, canola oil, cranberry oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rosehip seed oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, mallow oil, almond oil, mango kernel oil, marula oil, poppy seed oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, peach kernel oil, rambutan oil, rapeseed oil, rice bran oil, castor oil, Sacha Inchi oil, safflower oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sasanqua oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, Tea tree oil, grape seed oil, tsubaki oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, meadowfoam oil and / or rosehip oil.

[0059] Preferred are amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, almond oil, macadamia nut oil, rosehip seed oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, peach kernel oil, jojoba oil and / or the vegetable butters shea butter and / or cocoa butter.

[0060] The teaching of the invention also includes that at least two natural, vegetable oils can be mixed together.

[0061] The vegetable oil(s) (and / or butter(s)) is (are) used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention (based on the weight of the total composition) preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, more preferably 0.05 to 7.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.10 to 6 wt.% and in particular 0.15 to 5 wt.%.

[0062] For the purposes of the present invention, natural or synthetic waxes are preferably understood to mean natural, vegetable - optionally hydrogenated - waxes, for example candelilla wax, carnauba wax, esparto grass wax, guaruma wax, Japan wax, cork wax, rice germ oil wax, bay tree wax, kapok wax, cotton wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, sunflower (seed) wax, jojoba wax, rapeseed wax, soy wax, rice wax, rose blossom wax, fruit wax, myrica fruit wax.

[0063] The following waxes are particularly preferably used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention: candelilla wax (Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax), carnauba wax (Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax), berry wax (Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera), apple (peel) wax (Pyrus Malus (Apple Peel) Wax), orange (peel) wax (Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Wax) or mixtures thereof.

[0064] The or each wax can be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt.%, more preferably 0.005 to 15 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.01 to 10 wt.%, wherein the amounts refer to the total weight of the hair treatment compositions.

[0065] Suitable fatty alcohols and / or fatty acids that can be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols and / or fatty acids having 6 to 30, preferably 10 to 30 and most preferably 14 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols and / or fatty acids for the purposes of the invention are: - the fatty alcohols decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and / or behenyl alcohol, as well as their Guerbet alcohols and / or - the fatty acids dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, elaeostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid], whereby this list is intended to be exemplary and not limiting. In a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohols and / or fatty acids are obtainable from natural esters.

[0066] In a preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain one or more of the aforementioned fatty alcohols.

[0067] The amount of fatty alcohols and / or fatty acids used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention is preferably 0.1 - 20 wt.%, based on the total composition.

[0068] Another preferred group of cosmetic oils are the so-called ester oils. Suitable ester oils are preferably understood to be esters of C6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 alcohols, diols, or polyols that are liquid at room temperature (20°C). Esters of linear or branched saturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 18 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 18 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, are preferred. Preferred examples are isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, and 2-ethylhexyl stearate.Also preferred are isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isonyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-Octyldodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid, 2-butyloctanoic acid, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl rucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl rucate, ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol dipalmitate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl lactyl oleate, oleyl rucate, erucyl oleate or Mixtures of them.

[0069] Further preferred ester oils are selected from the triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C6-C30 fatty acids, provided they are liquid under normal conditions. Natural ingredients are particularly preferred and can be selected from soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, coconut oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, olive oil, sesame oil, safflower oil, wheat germ oil, and peach kernel oil. Only the liquid components of coconut oil and the like may also be particularly suitable. Particularly preferred are triglyceride oils, in particular capric / caprylic triglycerides, e.g., the commercial products Myritol® 318 or Myritol® 331 (BASF / Cognis) with unbranched fatty acid residues, as well as glyceryl triisostearin and glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate) with branched fatty acid residues. Other suitable ingredients include those with the INCI names Coco caprylate and Coco caprylate / caprate.

[0070] Further preferred non-volatile non-silicone ester oils are selected from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C2-C10 alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinic acid and di-(2-hexyldecyl) succinic acid.

[0071] Further non-volatile non-silicone ester oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units with mono- or polyhydric C8-C22 alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, e.g. PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether.

[0072] Further non-volatile non-silicone ester oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units with mono- or polyhydric C3-C22 alkanols, such as glycerol, butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, which can be esterified if desired, e.g. PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-9 butyl ether, PPG-10 butanediol and PPG-15 stearyl ether.

[0073] Other non-volatile, non-silicone ester oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the symmetrical, asymmetrical, or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C6-C20 alcohols, e.g., di-n-caprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC) or di-(2-ethylhexyl) carbonate (Tegosoft DEC). Esters of carbonic acid with C1-C5 alcohols, e.g., glycerol carbonate or propylene carbonate, are not suitable compounds as cosmetic oils.

[0074] Hair treatment compositions according to the invention can contain ester oils in a proportion of 0.01 to 20 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment composition. More preferred are proportions of 0.05 to 15 wt.%, and in particular 0.1 to 10 wt.%.

[0075] Silicones in the sense of the present invention are understood to mean, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), dimethiconols, amino-functional silicones or mixtures thereof.

[0076] Suitable dimethiconols are preferably selected from compounds of the following formulas (I) or (II) wherein - R 1 for hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical, - R 2 for hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C2 to C 30linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical, and - x, y and z each independently represent an integer from 0 to 50,000.

[0077] Dimethiconols are also referred to as silicone gums and typically have a high molecular weight and high viscosity. Their molecular weight is preferably >10,000 Daltons, more preferably >50,000 Daltons, and especially >100,000 Daltons. Furthermore, suitable dimethiconols according to the invention have a viscosity in the range of >10,000 cP, preferably >25,000 cP, and especially >50,000 cP (each measured at 25°C using a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of July 20, 1970).

[0078] Dimethiconols can alternatively be used in the hair treatment products according to the invention as a premix with a lower-viscosity component (usually lower-viscosity silicones or liquid alkanes). This can facilitate the incorporation of the dimethiconols and, on the other hand, promote a particularly appealing product feel and appearance of the hair treatment products.

[0079] Corresponding commercial products are available, for example, under the names Dowsil ® 1515 Gum, Dowsil ® 1503, Dowsil ® 1504, Dowsil ® 1505, Dowsil ® 1507, Dowsil ® OHX-0080, Serasence ® GB 17, Belsil ® GB 1020, Dow Corning ® 1501 Fluid, SeraSense ® GB 10, Mirasil ® C-DML, Silsoft ® 1215 LT available.

[0080] Hair treatment compositions according to the invention can contain dimethiconols, in particular the aforementioned preferred dimethiconols, preferably in a weight proportion of 0.5 to 40 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment composition. More preferred are weight proportions of 1-35 wt.% and in particular 1-30 wt.%.

[0081] Suitable dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes) are preferably understood to mean compounds of the following formula (III), (CH3)3Si-[O-Si(CH3)z] x -O-Si(CH3)3 (III), in which x can stand for a number from 0 to 10000, more preferably 0 to 9000 and especially 1 to 7500.

[0082] They are called dimethicones (dimethylpolysiloxanes).

[0083] Dimethicones suitable according to the invention can - be volatile (which means that they preferably have a vapor pressure in the range of 0.13 - 40,000 Pa (10 -3- 300 mmHg), more preferably 1.3 - 13,000 Pa (0.01 - 100 mmHg) and in particular 1.3 - 1300 Pa (0.01 - 10 mmHg) and a boiling point in the range from 60° to 240°C) and at 25°C a viscosity of < 25 cSt and in particular < 10 cSt (each measured at 25°C using a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of July 20, 1970). Corresponding dimethicones are known and available in the art, for example under the trade names Xiameter ® PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 2 cS, Xiameter ® PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5 cS, Xiameter ® PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 10 cS, Dowsil ® DM 5 or - be non-volatile (which means that they preferably have a vapor pressure in the range of < 0.13 Pa (0.01 mmHg)) and have a viscosity at 25°C of > 25,000 cSt and in particular > 50,000 cSt (each measured at 25°C using a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of July 20, 1970). Corresponding silicones c) are known and available in the art, for example under the trade names Xiameter ® PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 60,000 cS, Xiameter ® PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 100,000 cS, Dowsil ® DM 60,000.

[0084] Hair treatment compositions according to the invention can contain dimethicones, in particular the aforementioned preferred dimethicones, in a proportion of 0.1 to 30 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment composition. More preferred are proportions of 0.25-20 wt.% and in particular 0.5-10 wt.%.

[0085] Suitable aminofunctional silicones are preferably listed under the INCI names - Trimethylsilylamodimethicone - Amodimethicones are understood to mean compounds known as copolymers or crosspolymers of amodimethicones, such as the aminofunctional silicones known under the INCI names Amodimethicone / Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer and Bis-Hydroxy / Methoxy / Methyl Amodimethicone Crosspolymer.

[0086] Hair treatment compositions according to the invention can contain aminofunctional silicones in a weight proportion of 0-20 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment composition. More preferred are weight proportions of 0.05-20 wt.% and in particular of 0.1-10 wt.%.

[0087] Suitable alkyl ethers are preferably understood to mean dialkyl ethers and particularly preferably di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 24 carbon atoms in the molecule, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, di-n-octadecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether, and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether. Likewise preferred dialkyl ethers are those having branched alkyl groups each having 6 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular having alkyl groups substituted in the 2-position with an ethyl group. Particularly preferred is the di-n-octyl ether (INCI: Dicaprylyl ether), which is commercially available, for example, under the name Cetiol® OE.

[0088] Hair treatment compositions according to the invention can contain alkyl ethers in a proportion of 0 to 25% by weight of the total weight of the hair treatment composition. More preferred are proportions of 0.05 to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.1 to 15% by weight.

[0089] Suitable hydrocarbons are preferably understood to mean linear C6-C18 alkanes such as hexane, heptane, octane, nonane, decane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, heptadecane, octadecane, and mixtures thereof. Hair treatment compositions according to the invention—in particular hair oils—preferably comprise C6-C16 alkanes that are liquid at room temperature (20°C), particularly preferably C10-C16 alkanes and especially C11-C15 alkanes. Individual alkanes or mixtures of two or more of the above-mentioned alkanes can be used.

[0090] For example, mixtures of undecane and dodecane, mixtures of dodecane and tridecane, mixtures of undecane and tridecane, mixtures of undecane, dodecane, and tridecane can be used. Likewise, mixtures of tridecane and tetradecane, tridecane and pentadecane, tetradecane and pentadecane, or tridecane, tetradecane, and pentadecane can be used.

[0091] Dodecanes and / or mixtures of undecane and tridecane are particularly advantageous. Corresponding products are commercially available, for example, under the name Cetiol. ® Ultimate (INCI name; Undecane and Tridecane) from BASF or Parafol ® 12-97 (INCI name: Dodecane) from Sasol. They offer the added advantage of being available from renewable sources.

[0092] It is also possible to use the aforementioned hydrocarbons as a mixture with a dimethiconol in the compositions according to the invention – preferably in hair oils. Such mixtures are known and commercially available, for example under the name Dowsil. ® 1508 (INCI name: C13-15 Alkane and Dimethiconol).

[0093] Hair treatment compositions according to the invention can contain hydrocarbons in a weight proportion of 0 to 75 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment composition. More preferred are weight proportions of 0.05-70 wt.% and in particular of 0.1-65 wt.%.

[0094] Suitable cationic polymers other than b) within the meaning of the present invention include, for example, cationic cellulose compounds.

[0095] Cationic cellulose compounds within the meaning of the invention are those that carry more than one permanent cationic charge in at least one side chain. Cellulose is composed of beta-1,4-glycosidically linked D-glucopyranose units and forms unbranched, water-insoluble chains. The "side chain" of a cellulose is defined as chemical substituents that bind to the cellulose backbone and are not part of the native cellulose, for example, because they were subsequently introduced through chemical synthesis.

[0096] Preferred are quaternized cellulose polymers derived from hydroxy(C2-C4)alkylcelluloses, particularly preferably from hydroxyethylcelluloses.

[0097] Such polymers are known to those skilled in the art and are commercially available from various companies. Particular preference is given to the cationic cellulose derivatives known under the INCI names Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67, and / or Polyquaternium-72. Very particular preference is given to Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, and / or Polyquaternium-67, and especially preferred is Polyquaternium-10.

[0098] Further suitable cationic polymers for use in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can, for example, be selected from cationic polymers with the INCI names Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39 and mixtures thereof.

[0099] Hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain one or more cationic polymer(s) different from b) - based on the weight of the composition - preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 3 wt.%, and especially 0.01 to 1 wt.%. Hair treatment compositions according to the invention particularly preferably contain at least one cationic polymer different from b) from the group of the aforementioned cationic cellulose polymers and / or polyquaternium-37.

[0100] A particularly preferred embodiment is characterized in that the hair treatment agents according to the invention are formulated as care compositions for the scalp and / or the hair, and in a cosmetic carrier (based on their total weight) - 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one alpha-substituted compound according to formula (I) - 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one cationic guar polymer having an average molecular weight in the range of 2,000,000 to 3,500,000 g / mol - 0.05 - 10 wt.% of at least one cationic surfactant and / or at least one cationic polymer.

[0101] In addition to the active ingredients described above, the hair treatment agents according to the invention may, depending on the embodiment, further contain one or more active ingredients from one or more of the following groups: - Dyes, including both dyes for coloring the compositions and dyes for coloring hair, including oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes, natural dyes and mixtures thereof, and optionally oxidizing and alkalizing agents, - UV filter substances - Perfumes - Thickeners such as cellulose ethers, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglucans, polygalactomannans, pectins, agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, karaya gum, tara gum, gellan, gelatin, propylene glycol alginate, alginic acids and their salts, polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyvinyl alcohols, polyacrylamides, physically (e.g. by pregelatinization) and / or chemically modified starches, acrylic acid-acrylate copolymers, acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid-vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, acrylic acid-vinylformamide copolymers, polyacrylates and branched polymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their salts - Complexing agents such as EDTA - Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Pyrithione, Climbazole, Propanediol Caprylate - Vitamins, vitamin derivatives or vitamin precursors, preferably from groups A, B, E and H, particularly preferably from group B, such as panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine or mixtures thereof - Film-forming polymers such as, for example, polymers from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides. Specific suitable examples are the commercial products Aculyn ® 22, Aculyn ® 28, Structure® 2001, Structure ® 3001, Structure Plus ® , Carbopol ® 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21, amphomer ® , Dermacryl ® LT and 79, Luvitol ® HSB, PVP (Luvitech ® 17, 30, 60, 80, 85, 90, K 115), Luviskol ® K 90, Luviskol ® K 85, Luviskol ® VA 64 and 73, Aquaflex ® SF-40 Styleze ® CC-1 0 - Pearlescent agents and / or opacifiers - organic acids such as citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid - Alkalizing agents such as sodium hydroxide - Active ingredients such as bisabolol - Propellant - Preservatives.

[0102] Preferred hair treatment agents within the meaning of the present invention are cosmetic care compositions for hair and / or scalp - in particular leave-on care compositions - which are characterized as follows: a) 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one alpha-substituted compound according to formula (I) b) 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one cationic guar polymer having an average molecular weight in the range of 2,000,000 to 3,500,000 g / mol c) a cosmetic carrier.

[0103] The cosmetic carrier can be oil-based or aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic - as previously described.

[0104] Further preferred are cosmetic care compositions for hair and / or scalp - in particular leave-on care compositions - which are characterized as follows: a) 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one alpha-substituted compound according to formula (I) b) 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one cationic guar polymer having an average molecular weight in the range of 2,000,000 to 3,500,000 g / mol c) 0.05 - 10 wt.% of at least one cationic surfactant and / or at least one cationic polymer d) a cosmetic carrier.

[0105] Very particular preference is given to cosmetic care compositions for hair and / or scalp - in particular leave-on care compositions - which contain, in a cosmetic carrier as a compound according to formula (I), alpha-hydroxyoctanal, alpha-hydroxyoctanone or mixtures thereof and hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, which has an average molecular weight in the range from 2,000,000 to 3,500,000 g / mol.

[0106] A second subject matter of the invention is a method for hair treatment, in which a hair treatment agent according to the invention is applied to dry or damp hair, left there for a period of 5 to 600 seconds and then rinsed out.

[0107] A third subject matter of the invention is a method for hair treatment, in which a hair treatment agent according to the invention is applied to dry or damp hair and left there until the next hair wash.

[0108] A fourth object of the invention is the use of the hair treatment agent according to the invention for - Restructuring - permanent or long-lasting strengthening of the inner structure of hair fibers - Reduction of split ends and / or - Reduction of hair breakage.

[0109] The present invention and preferred embodiments are characterized by the following statements: 1. Hair treatment compositions containing in a cosmetic carrier - based on its weight a) 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one alpha-substituted compound of the general formula (I) R 2 -C(O)-CH(X)-R 1 (I), wherein • one of the residues R 1 or R 2 represents H and the other represents a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 1 to 15 carbon atoms, where the carbon chain may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl or amino groups, and • X represents -OH, -NH2, -Cl, -Br, -I or the following groups: -O-(CH2) n -CH3, where n is 1, 2, 3 or 4, and -O-(CH2) m -OH, where m is the number 1, 2 or 3, b) 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one cationic guar polymer having an average molecular weight in the range of 2,000,000 to 3,500,000 g / mol. 2. Hair treatment product according to claim 1, wherein ◯ one of the residues R 1 or R 2 for H or for a group -(CH2) o -CH3, where 0 stands for the numbers 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, and ◯ X represents a hydroxyl group. 3. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding statements, containing as alpha-substituted compound according to formula (I) alpha-hydroxyoctanal, alpha-hydroxyoctanone or mixtures thereof. 4. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding statements, wherein the amount of a) is in the range of 0.025 - 4 wt.%, preferably 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.075 - 2 wt.% and in particular 0.1 - 1 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment agent. 5. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding statements, wherein the cationic guar polymer b) has an average molecular weight in the range from 2,200,000 to 3,300,000 g / mol, more preferably from 2,300,000 to 2,900,000 g / mol and particularly preferably from 2,400,000 to 2,900,000 g / mol. 6. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding statements, wherein the cationic guar polymer b) has a viscosity in the range from 600 to 1200 mPas, particularly preferably from 750 to 850 mPas. 7. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding statements, containing as cationic guar polymer b) hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. 8. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding statements, wherein the amount of b) is in the range of 0.02 - 4 wt.%, preferably 0.03 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.04 - 2 wt.% and in particular 0.05 - 1 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair treatment agent. 9. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding statements, containing - based on its weight - 0.1 - 75 wt.% of at least one surfactant selected from anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic, cationic surfactants or mixtures thereof. 10. Hair treatment composition according to claim 9, containing - based on its weight - 0.1 - 10 wt.% - of at least one cationic surfactant. 11. Hair treatment composition according to claim 9, containing - based on its weight - 1 - 20 wt.% - of at least one anionic surfactant. 12. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding statements, containing - based on its weight - 0.1 - 50 wt.% - of at least one fatty compound. 13. Hair treatment compositions according to any one of the preceding statements, containing a fatty acid, a fatty alcohol, natural or synthetic waxes, solid vegetable oils or vegetable butters, natural or synthetic cosmetic oils, silicones, ester oils, alkyl ethers, straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbons having 6 to 18 carbon atoms or mixtures thereof. 14. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding statements, containing - based on its weight - 0.1 - 5 wt.% - of at least one cationic polymer different from b). 15. Hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, containing one or more additives selected from dyes, surfactants, polymers, conditioning agents, opacifiers, pearlescent agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-hair loss agents, vitamins, antioxidants, UV filters, perfumes, preservatives and pH adjusters. 16. A method of treating hair comprising applying a composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 15 to dry or damp hair, leaving it thereon for a period of 5 to 600 seconds, and then rinsing it out. 17. A method of treating hair comprising applying a composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 15 to dry or damp hair and leaving the hair there until the next shampooing. 18. Use of a product according to any of the statements 1 to 15 for - Restructuring - permanent or long-lasting strengthening of the inner structure of hair fibers - Reduction of split ends and / or - Reduction of hair breakage.

[0110] With regard to preferred embodiments of the methods according to the invention and the uses according to the invention, what has been said regarding the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis. Examples:

[0111] The following hair treatment products were prepared. The quantities given are in wt.% unless otherwise stated. Hair serums 1 2 3 alpha-hydroxyoctanal and / or alpha-hydroxyoctanone 0,01-5 0,01-5 0,25 cationic guar polymer b) with an average molecular weight in the range of 2,000,000 to 3,500,000 g / mol 0,01-5 0,01-5 Polycare ® Split Therapy 0,2 Fat compound 0-50 0,1-50 Apricot kernel oil 0,1 alcohol 0-40 Ethanol and / or glycerin 10-25 19 cationic polymer different from b) 0-5 Polyquaternium-37 0,01-1 0,7 Perfume 0-3 0-2 0,4 Water and, if necessary, other active ingredients to 100 to 100 to 100

[0112] Polycare ®Split Therapy: INCI name Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride (Solvay)

Claims

[1] Hair treatment composition containing in a cosmetic carrier - based on its weight a) 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one alpha-substituted compound of the general formula (I) R 2 -C(O)-CH(X)-R 1 (I), wherein • one of the residues R 1 or R 2 represents H and the other represents a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 1 to 15 carbon atoms, where the carbon chain may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl or amino groups, and • X represents -OH, -NH2, -Cl, -Br, -I or the following groups: -O-(CH2) n -CH3, where n is 1, 2, 3 or 4, and -O-(CH2) m -OH, where m is the number 1, 2 or 3, b) 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one cationic guar polymer having an average molecular weight in the range of 2,000,000 to 3,500,000 g / mol. [2] Hair treatment composition according to claim 1, wherein ◯ one of the residues R 1 or R 2 for H or for a group -(CH2) o -CH3, where o stands for the numbers 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, and ◯ X represents a hydroxyl group. [3] Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, containing as alpha-substituted compound of formula (I) alpha-hydroxyoctanal, alpha-hydroxyoctanone or mixtures thereof. [4] Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic guar polymer b) has a viscosity in the range of 600 to 1200 mPas. [5] Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, containing as cationic guar polymer b) hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. [6] Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, containing - based on its weight - 0.1 - 75 wt.% of at least one surfactant selected from anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic, cationic surfactants or mixtures thereof. [7] Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, containing - based on its weight - 0.01 - 5 wt.% - of at least one cationic polymer different from b). [8] Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, containing one or more additives selected from dyes, surfactants, polymers, conditioning agents, opacifiers, pearlescent agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-hair loss agents, vitamins, antioxidants, UV filters, perfumes, preservatives and pH adjusters. [9] A method of treating hair, in which an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8 is applied to dry or damp hair and left there until the next hair wash. [10] Use of an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for - Restructuring - permanent or long-lasting strengthening of the inner structure of hair fibers - Reduction of split ends and / or - Reduction of hair breakage.