Textile piece, method for producing a textile piece and garment comprising such a textile piece and method for producing same

Abstract

A textile component (1) comprises interlaced yarns (2). The plurality of yarns (2) includes at least 10% first yarns (2a). Each first yarn (2a) has a core (4) of a first material and a sheath (5) of a second material different from the first material. The first material is a para-aramid, a carbon fiber, or a glass fiber. The sheath (5) forms a water-tight barrier and a barrier blocking ultraviolet radiation around the core (4). The sheath (5) of each first yarn (2a) is separated from the sheath (5) of adjacent yarns (2) by a gap or by a layer of a material more flexible than the second material.

Description

Technical field

[0001] The invention relates to a textile piece, a garment comprising a textile piece, and a method of manufacturing a textile piece. State of the art

[0002] In many professions, it is common to wear clothing that must provide significant protection against external aggressions. For example, firefighters wear a jacket designed to protect them during their firefighting operations. Historically, the jacket had a leather outer layer. Leather was relatively easy to maintain because it simply required washing with water and then applying a coat of shoe polish. However, this jacket was heavy and provided limited comfort during the summer.

[0003] The leather jacket was replaced by a jacket made from technical fibers such as meta-aramid or para-aramid fibers. The change in material allowed for a significant reduction in the jacket's weight. However, it appeared that this new jacket configuration is much more difficult to maintain and that it exhibits accelerated aging. In particular, a significant decrease in performance was observed with each washing operation. Para-aramid fibers degrade significantly with humidity, which leads to a drop in the jacket's performance. It appeared that para-aramid fibers have poor resistance to UV radiation, which requires protection when working outdoors. It also appeared that para-aramid fibers degrade rapidly when subjected to abrasion and humidity.

[0004] Furthermore, in order to protect the health of personnel, it is recommended to wash protective equipment more and more frequently, in order to remove any contaminants that may have settled on the jacket during an intervention. The incentive to wash the jacket very regularly will degrade the meta-aramid or para-aramid fibers, which will result in an accelerated deterioration of the performance of the protective equipment.

[0005] Document FR2604193 discloses a composite yarn for producing a textile product by knitting or weaving, in particular technical gloves. The composite yarn comprises a core made from a synthetic or natural material coated with a sheath made from an elastomeric material. The core may be a cotton-based yarn, a nylon-based yarn, or a glass-based cord. The sheath may be silicone-based or polyurethane-based.

[0006] US5224363 discloses a garment and a method of manufacturing a garment. A strand has a core formed of a cut-resistant material and is covered by a sheath forming a fluid-impermeable coating. The coating may be vinyl or polyurethane. The core may be Kevlar, aramid, or stainless steel. The strands are knitted to form a garment. US2017 / 0340038 discloses a protective fabric resistant to cuts and / or abrasion and slashes, as well as a lightweight knitted garment using such a fabric. The sheath of the yarn used may comprise aramid, high molecular weight polyethylene, or glass fibers. The core may be coated with a polyurethane sheath. Statement of the invention

[0007] An object of the invention is to provide a textile part whose mechanical performance is better preserved over time and preferably following a multitude of washes with water.

[0008] These drawbacks are tended to be solved by means of a textile part according to the appended claims.

[0009] The invention also relates to a garment whose durability over time is improved.

[0010] According to one aspect of the invention, the garment comprises a textile piece according to any one of the preceding configurations.

[0011] Advantageously, the garment is a fire-resistant garment. The invention also relates to a manufacturing method that makes it possible to simply manufacture a textile piece that is more resistant over time.

[0012] This result is tended to be achieved by means of a method of manufacturing a textile part according to the appended claims. Description of the drawings

[0013] Other advantages and characteristics will emerge more clearly from the following description of particular embodiments and implementations of the invention given as non-limiting examples and represented in the appended drawings, in which: : there figure 1 schematically illustrates a sectional view of a textile piece formed by several first threads; the figure 2 schematically illustrates a top view of a textile piece obtained by weaving; the figure 3 schematically illustrates a top view of a textile piece obtained by knitting; the figure 4 schematically illustrates a perspective view of a textile piece obtained by braiding; the Figure 5 schematically illustrates a top view of a garment having areas with different first thread contents. Detailed description

[0014] As illustrated in figures 1 to 5, a textile piece 1 is formed by a plurality of interwoven threads 2. The textile piece 1 is a fabric, that is to say obtained by

[0015] weaving. In a configuration outside the invention, the textile piece 1 may be a knit, i.e. obtained by knitting. In another configuration outside the invention, the textile piece 1 may be a non-woven, for example obtained by braiding or by any other suitable technique. The plurality of yarns 2 comprises first yarns 2a and possibly additional yarns 2b. The first yarns 2a provide the desired mechanical and preferably thermomechanical performance. By thermomechanical, we mean the provision of mechanical performance at high temperature, for example greater than 50°C, preferably greater than 100°C and more preferably greater than 150°C.

[0016] The textile piece 1 can form all or part of a garment 3 as illustrated in Figure 5. The garment 3 is preferably personal protective equipment and preferably a garment that meets the EN11612 standard and / or the EN469 standard. The garment 3 is advantageously a flame protection suit, i.e. a “fire suit”, for example a firefighter’s intervention suit to extinguish a fire. The garment may be a jacket or trousers.

[0017] In a configuration outside the invention, the textile piece 1 is formed solely by first threads 2a. In one embodiment, the textile piece 1 is formed by first threads 2a and at least one additional thread 2b, preferably several additional threads 2b that are identical or different from each other.

[0018] Each first yarn 2a has a core 4 made of first material and a sheath 5 made of second material different from the first material. The first material is a para-aramid, a carbon fiber or a glass fiber. Preferably, the first material is a para-aramid. The second material forms the sheath 5, that is to say a protective layer around the core 4. The sheath 5 is impermeable to water so as to reduce or even prevent water from coming into contact with the core 4 during multiple washings of the textile piece. The sheath 5 also forms a barrier to ultraviolet radiation so as to reduce the aging of the core 4 made of first material and in particular para-aramid. In one embodiment, the sheath 5 blocks 100% of the UV radiation emitted, for example for radiation equal to 250mW / m 2 < , preferably equal to 350mW / m 2 < . In an alternative embodiment, the sheath 5 blocks at least 80% of the emitted UV radiation.

[0019] The core 4 of the first material provides the mechanical performance of the first yarn 2a, for example its breaking strength in the longitudinal direction of the first yarn 2a, i.e. in the direction of greatest dimension. Advantageously, the first material has the highest breaking strength value in the longitudinal direction above 50°C, preferably above 100°C and advantageously above 150°C compared to the sheath and preferably compared to the other materials forming the textile part.

[0020] The core 4 also provides the characteristics relating to heat resistance according to the ISO17493 standard. It is advantageous for the core 4 to be formed from the material which has the highest heat resistance value of the textile piece. It is advantageous to choose a core 4 as the first material whose count is between 110dTex and 8250dTex and in particular para-aramid. The textile piece 1 can be formed by different first yarns 2a whose count is included in the previous range. The choice of count is made according to the needs to be achieved.

[0021] The interlacing of the first threads 2a with other threads 2b and preferably the interlacing of the first threads 2a with each other makes it possible to define the piercing resistance of the textile piece 1 or the punching resistance. The type of interlacing as well as the tension in the first thread 2a during the interlacing step makes it possible to define the piercing resistance of the textile piece 1.

[0022] The sheath 5 forms a shell around the core 4 so as to reduce the aging of the core 4. The shell is a flexible shell to maintain the flexible nature of the textile. Preferably, for each first yarn 2a, the sheath 5 forms a specific flexible shell around the core 4. The sheath 5 of a first yarn 2a never forms the sheath 5 of an adjacent first yarn. Two adjacent sheaths 5 are distinct. The core 4 of a first yarn 2a is protected independently of the core of the adjacent first yarn 2a by the sheath 5. The adjacent yarns are intertwined with each other and define empty areas.

[0023] This configuration is different from a coating layer in the sheath material 5 and which continuously connects several adjacent yarns. With a textile without a coating layer, the sheath 5 of each first yarn 2a is spaced from the sheath of the adjacent yarns (first yarns 2a or other yarns 2b) by a void area. The use of a textile in which the sheath 5 of each first yarn 2a is spaced from the sheath of the yarns (first yarn 2a and second yarn 2b) adjacent by a void area is particularly advantageous because it makes it possible to form a material with high breathability. Such a configuration makes it possible to form a fabric whose air permeability is greater than 300L / m 2 < / s at 200Pa, or even 700L / m 2 < / s at 200Pa. The air permeability measurement is carried out in accordance with ISO9237. Il It is particularly advantageous to form a textile part 1 whose air permeability is between 300L / m 2 < / s and 1200L / m 2 < / s at 200Pa.

[0024] Alternatively, a thin coating layer may be possible in addition to the sheath 5. In this case, the coating layer is a layer of a more flexible material than the second material forming the sheath 5. The layer is more flexible than the second material so as not to degrade the flexibility of the textile. The use of a continuous coating layer makes it possible to form a waterproof and airtight area. Water permeability is preferably measured according to ISO 9237 and air permeability is preferably measured according to EN20811.

[0025] It is more advantageous to have a textile whose first threads 2a are each covered by a sheath 5 separate from each adjacent thread (in particular the first threads 2a), for an identical or substantially identical thickness of the same second material. This configuration is advantageous compared to a coating layer common to several threads having a core made of the first material and in particular para-aramid, the coating layer having a thickness identical to the sheath and being made of this same material. The configuration is advantageous because it has better abrasion resistance. Since the sheath 5 is more resistant to abrasion, it provides the protective characteristics of the core 4 for longer for washing operations and against attacks from ultraviolet radiation. Replacing the coating layer with the sheath 5 makes it possible to increase the service life of the cores 4 made of the first material.The use of a sheath 5 independently protecting each core 4 and in a configuration without a coating layer also makes it possible to form a fabric with better breathability. Breathability can be represented by the quantity of air that can pass through a given surface of textile per unit of time. The use of a textile comprising the first threads 2a makes it possible to form a fabric having a breathability greater than or equal to 200L / m 2 < / s at 200Pa.

[0026] The sheath 5 has a breaking strength along the longitudinal axis which is lower than the breaking strength of the core 4. It is advantageous for the sheath 5 to have a yield strength which is higher than that of the core 4, preferably at least 50% higher. Preferably, the yield strength of the sheath 5 is 500 times higher than that of the core 4. Preferably, the sheath 5 is made of a material which has no glass transition temperature in a range between -20°C and 210°C in order to avoid a significant modification of the mechanical behavior when the temperature changes in this range. It is advantageous for the material of the sheath 5 to be between 3 and 10 MPa so as to have an interesting behavior for a garment.It is also advantageous for the elongation at break of the sheath 5 to be between 500% and 1500% in order to better adapt to the needs of a garment and in particular to the needs of a fire protection suit. It is also preferable for the material forming the sheath 5 to have a degradation temperature greater than 210°C and more preferably greater than 230°C. The degradation temperature may be the melting temperature. It is also preferable for the material of the sheath 5 not to be brittle at a temperature equal to -20°C so as to allow its use in a garment over a wide range of operating temperatures.

[0027] In an advantageous embodiment, the sheath 5 of a first yarn 2a is distinct from the sheath 5 of an adjacent first yarn 2a or from the sheath of an adjacent yarn 2b. For an adjacent yarn 2b, the core and the sheath may be made of identical or different materials. Such a configuration makes it possible to form a porous textile piece 1. In an alternative embodiment, the sheath 5 of a first yarn 2a is mechanically connected to the sheath 5 of an adjacent first yarn 2a or to the sheath of an adjacent yarn 2b by means of a layer which is more flexible than the second material forming the sheath 5. The flexibility of the layer makes it possible to have a textile piece 1 whose flexibility provided by the interlacing is not or is little modified by the addition of the layer. The flexibility of the layer will result in rapid wear so that the layer is unable to provide good sealing over time and / or good protection against UV radiation.The material forming the layer may also have a melting temperature which is lower than the melting temperature of the sheath 5.

[0028] It is advantageous to have a textile that is devoid of a coating layer or whose areas with a coating layer are not facing surfaces that generate perspiration. The coating layer blocks air and water so that the user's perspiration cannot escape, which is unpleasant. In order to have effective protection, it is sought to form a thick coating layer which significantly modifies the mechanical behavior of the textile and blocks the passage of air and water.

[0029] The second material forming the sheath 5 is preferably chosen from polyurethane-ether, polyurethane-ester, polyurethane polyacrylate, silicone, a polyolefin, a thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) or a mixture thereof. These materials are particularly advantageous for forming a sheath 5 which is effective in blocking water as well as UV radiation with a low thickness which makes it possible not to modify the mechanical behavior of the core 4 too much.

[0030] When the temperature performance of the material forming the sheath 5 is not sufficient, it is preferable that a flame retardant be used in the sheath 5. It is also possible to use a second material which contains a flame retardant polymer, preferably at least 5% by weight. Preferably, the flame retardant is an organophosphorus compound. It is also possible to use a flame retardant elastomer. It is then advantageous to provide a sheath 5 whose titer is between 30dTex and 3000dTex.

[0031] In order to meet specific needs, it is possible to add one or more compounds to the second material so as to improve its technical characteristics, for example by adding one or more polymer materials, one or more elastomers, polymer particles, mineral particles or even metal particles. It is possible to add a compound intended to improve the abrasion resistance of the sheath. It is possible to add a compound intended to improve the blocking power of UV radiation. It is possible to add a compound intended to improve the resistance to ozone. It is possible to add a compound intended to improve infrared camouflage. It is possible to add a compound intended to improve water repellency. It is possible to add a compound intended to reduce the wicking effect. It is possible to add a compound intended to improve the resistance and / or repulsion to chemicals.

[0032] Advantageously, the textile piece 1 is configured so that the sheath 5 of each first yarn 2a can be movable relative to the adjacent yarn of the textile piece 1. The mobility can be observed along the longitudinal axis of the first yarn 2a as well as perpendicular to the longitudinal axis. The sheath 5 does not stick to the adjacent yarn 2. The deformation of the yarns 2 relative to each other makes it possible to provide greater flexibility of the textile piece 1 compared to the configurations of the prior art. In other words, the textile piece 1 is devoid of a coating layer that continuously connects several adjacent first yarns. The formation of a porous textile piece 1 is advantageous because it allows at least one air flow to pass through the two opposite faces of the textile piece 1.

[0033] By using a textile part 1 without a coating layer, it is possible to form a textile part 1 which is more flexible and which allows better ventilation. These advantages can be obtained while providing a textile part 1 whose resistance over time of the threads 2a in the first material and more particularly in para-aramid is better controlled.

[0034] When the textile piece 1 is without a coating layer, it is possible to choose an interlacing configuration which makes it more or less easy for air to circulate through the textile piece 1. Il It is also possible to choose an interlacing configuration which allows or prohibits the passage of moisture through the textile piece 1.

[0035] When the textile piece 1 is a fabric, the interlacing configuration can be defined by the weave pattern as well as the number of threads 2 per unit area. For a given diameter of threads 2, the greater the number of threads 2, the tighter the weave, which modifies the permeability to air and water. Il It is possible to change the number of warp threads for a unit of weft distance and it is possible to change the number of weft threads for a unit of warp distance. This information can be provided in the form n son / cm for the weft and / or the warp.

[0036] The greater the number of threads (2 per centimeter), the tighter the weave and the more difficult it will be to allow air to circulate. In one case, the interlacing configuration is chosen so that the textile piece is waterproof. However, it is particularly advantageous if the interlacing configuration is chosen so that the textile piece allows water to pass through. A compromise is found in the interlacing configuration between the ability to allow air and possibly water vapor to pass through and the resistance to abrasion and possibly puncture.

[0037] Depending on the desired performance, the interlacing configuration of the textile piece 1 will be adjusted. It is possible to choose one weave or another so as to promote or block the passage of air between one side of the textile piece 1 and the other side. It is also possible to choose the percentage of occupation by the threads for a given unit of surface area so as to modulate the capacity to allow the passage of air between one side of the textile piece 1 and the other side. The same is true for the capacity to circulate water. It is possible to form a garment having several different zones. The zones are distinguished by a difference in weave and / or by a difference in the number of threads / cm.

[0038] The use of a first yarn 2a which has a core 4 made of the first material and in particular of para-aramid covered by a protective sheath 5 which is specific to it makes it possible to form a textile part 1 whose performance is better preserved over time, in particular after multiple washes in water and after a period of exposure to ultraviolet radiation. It is possible to form a textile part 1 which is more flexible than the coated configuration of the prior art and which allows better ventilation while offering equally good or even better performance over time.

[0039] The textile piece 1 has a first yarn content 2a that is greater than or equal to 10%, the content is in number of yarns. In a configuration outside the invention, the textile piece 2 can be formed only with first yarns 2a, that is to say with a first yarn content 2a equal to 100%. With a first yarn content 2a that is equal to 100%, it is possible to form a textile whose breathability is greater than or equal to 300L / m 2 < / s at 200Pa, for example a textile whose breathability is between 300 and 400L / m 2 < / s at 200Pa. Such a breathability value is much higher than what is observed with a leather jacket or a jacket covered with a coating layer without degradation of the fire resistance performance.

[0040] The content of first 2a yarns corresponds to the number of first 2a yarns out of the total number of yarns for a given unit of surface area, for example 1cm 2< . It is particularly advantageous that the surface proportion of first 2a yarns is never less than 10%, that is to say that the surface area occupied by the first 2a yarns is greater than 10% for a given unit of surface area, for example 1cm 2< . Preferably, the content of first 2a yarns is greater than or equal to 30%, or even 50%. The higher the content of first 2a yarns, the greater the mechanical performance at high temperature.

[0041] The use of at least 10% of first yarns 2a having a core made of first material and preferably para-aramid makes it possible to form a textile part 1 which has good resistance to opening under the effect of a flame and convective heat. Depending on the level of performance sought for resistance to opening under the effect of a flame and convective heat, the content of first yarns 2a is adapted. The higher the content of first yarns 2a, the higher the resistance to opening under the effect of a flame and convective heat.

[0042] It is advantageous to form the textile part 1 with first yarns 2a which have a count between 110dTex and 2200dTex. Depending on the desired mechanical performance, fire resistance performance and weight, the person skilled in the art will choose a first yarn 2a from the indicated range.

[0043] In a preferred embodiment, the textile part 1 is formed with at least one additional yarn 2b. The at least one additional yarn 2b is chosen from one or more meta-aramid yarns 2b, one or more ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene yarns and a poly(p-phenylene-2,6-benzobisoxazole) (PBO), one or more viscose yarns, one or more modacrylic yarns, one or more polyamide yarns, one or more polyester yarns, one or more polyvinyl alcohol PVA yarns, one or more polybenzimidazole PBI yarns. An ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene is a polyethylene molecule whose molar mass is greater than 10 6< g / mol, preferably between 1 and 10.10 6< g / mol. It can be marketed under the names Dyneema and Spectra. Poly(p-phenylene-2,6-benzobisoxazole) can be marketed under the name Zylon ®< .It is also advantageous if the at least one additional thread possibly includes a flame retardant additive.

[0044] The meta-aramid yarns, the poly(p-phenylene-2,6-benzobisoxazole) yarns and the ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene yarns form first additional yarns 2b. Preferably, the first additional yarns 2b and the first yarns 2a represent the majority of the yarns 2 of the textile piece 1. It is also advantageous for the first additional yarns 2b to be in the form of a core covered by a sheath. The sheath may have flame retardants. The sheath is advantageously made of the second material.

[0045] Advantageously, the yarns 2 as first additional yarns 2b are used in the textile piece 1 in order to improve the abrasion resistance. Preferably, at least 10% by number or volume of first additional yarns 2b are used.

[0046] The additional yarn 2b may also be chosen from a natural fiber or a synthetic fiber. For example, the natural fiber is chosen from cotton or wool. The synthetic fiber may be a viscose, that is to say a plastic material of plant origin, and preferably obtained from cellulose. It is also possible to use polyester, polyamide or modacrylic. The additional yarn may also be an elastane to provide flexibility / elasticity to the textile piece 1.

[0047] It is advantageous to provide a textile piece 1 which has a surface content of yarns 2 of between 10 and 40 yarns / cm (warp and / or weft) to form a textile piece 1 which has good moisture transfer. The surface content corresponds to the surface occupied by the yarns 2 for a given unit of surface. The remainder corresponds to the through holes of the textile piece 1.

[0048] In a preferred embodiment, the textile piece 1 has a ratio between the average count of the first threads 2a and the average count of the additional threads 2b (T additional threads / T first threads) which is between 0.5 and 10. The average count is an average count in number.

[0049] Preferably, the textile piece 1 is formed with a first yarn 2a whose core 4 is in the form of a long fiber, that is to say that the core 4 is formed by one or more filaments which extend continuously from one end to the other of the textile piece 1. When the core 4 is formed by several filaments, the majority or all of the filaments extend continuously from one end to the other of the textile piece 1. In the prior art, the textile piece has para-aramid yarns whose core is formed with short fibers which are bonded to each other. It is advantageous for the sheath 5 to also be in the form of a sheath 5 which extends continuously and monolithically from one end to the other of the textile piece 1.

[0050] When manufacturing the textile piece 1, the same first yarn 2a may extend continuously several times from one end to the other. For example, the same first yarn 2a forms several weft yarns, preferably several adjacent weft yarns. The continuity of the weft yarns may disappear once the textile piece 1 is cut to the shape of the garment 3 or a part of the garment 3.

[0051] Surprisingly, although the core 4 in the first material is coated by the sheath 5, the use of a core 4 formed by long fibers allows for better pilling resistance. Pilling resistance can be quantified by the modified Martindale method (ISO12945-2-2000 standard). Better pilling resistance allows the textile piece 1 to be preserved for a longer time.

[0052] The use of long fibers allows for better mechanical strength and a reduction in elongation along the longitudinal direction of the fiber and therefore of the first yarn 2a. In association with the absence of the coating layer, the use of long fibers allows for a better compromise between flexibility and mechanical strength without degrading breathability, for a given interlacing of the fibers. To obtain given mechanical and thermal performances, the use of first yarns 2a with long fibers makes it possible to form a textile piece 1 whose yarns 2 are less tightly packed against each other, which improves the thermal evaporative resistance called RET (in m 2 < .Pa / W), that is to say the resistance that a fabric opposes to the evacuation of moisture. This resistance value is measured according to the ISO11092 standard.

[0053] In a particular embodiment, the textile piece 1 has a first portion 1a and a second portion 1b. The first portion 1a and the second portion 1b share at least one first yarn 2a, preferably several first yarns 2a. It is particularly advantageous for the first portion 1a and the second portion 1b to come from the same manufacturing step of the textile piece 1, i.e. the same weaving step or, in a configuration outside the invention, the same knitting step or the same braiding step. In a particular embodiment, the first portion 1a has a first thermal evaporative resistance value and the second portion 1b has a second thermal evaporative resistance value which is different from the first thermal evaporative resistance.

[0054] In another embodiment, the first portion 1a has a first air permeability value and the second portion 1b has a second air permeability value that is different from the first air permeability value.

[0055] In yet another embodiment, the first portion 1a has a first water permeability value and the second portion 1b has a second water permeability value that is different from the first water permeability value.

[0056] In yet another embodiment, the first portion 1a has a first flame or convective heat opening value and the second portion 1b has a second flame or convective heat opening value that is different from the first flame or convective heat opening value.

[0057] In yet another embodiment, the first portion 1a has a first mass per unit area value and the second portion 1b has a second mass per unit area value that is different from the first mass per unit area value.

[0058] In yet another embodiment, the first portion 1a has a first abrasion resistance value and the second portion 1b has a second abrasion resistance value that is different from the first abrasion resistance value.

[0059] To achieve the difference in performance between the first portion 1a and the second portion 1b, it is advantageous for the first portion 1a to have an interlacing configuration that is different from the interlacing configuration of the second portion 1b. Preferably, the first portion 1a has a first yarn content 2a that is different from the first yarn content 2a in the second portion 1b as illustrated in figures 2, 3 and 4 . Alternatively or in addition, the first portion 1a has a content of first additional yarn 2b which is different from the content of first additional yarn 2b in the second portion 1b.

[0060] In a particular embodiment illustrated in figure 3, the textile piece 1 forms all or part of a garment 3, for example a jacket. The first portion 1a and the second portion 1b have different mechanical and / or thermal performances which makes it possible to use the same textile piece to form several different parts of the garment 3. The different parts of the garment 3 must meet different needs. By providing a monolithic textile piece 1, the steps in making the garment 3 are reduced, which makes it possible to reduce the manufacturing cost and this makes it possible to improve the compromise between strength and mass.

[0061] For example, the textile piece 1 may comprise a portion which has low water permeability on the front face of the garment 3 and high water permeability on the back face of the garment 3 or vice versa depending on the identified needs. These two portions belong to the same monolithic textile piece 1 and come from the same manufacturing step, that is to say the same weaving step or in a configuration outside the invention by knitting or braiding. It is advantageous to provide a textile piece 1 which has portions 1a and 1b having different mechanical and / or thermal characteristics so as to better adapt the performance of the different portions to the needs of the garment 3. This also makes it possible to better control the mass of the garment 3.

[0062] In the illustrated embodiments, two portions 1a and 1b are shown, but it is possible to make three, four or more different portions. The portions differ from each other by one of the parameters identified above: thermal evaporative resistance, resistance to opening under the effect of a flame or under the effect of convective heat, air permeability, water permeability, abrasion resistance, pilling resistance.

[0063] The textile part 1 is particularly advantageous for forming all or part of a firefighter's jacket intended for fighting fires. This makes it possible to provide a textile part 1 which differentiates the areas intended to withstand intense heat and areas better suited to promoting the evacuation of perspiration.

[0064] The textile piece 1 can also form all or part of a motor vehicle driver's suit. The thermal constraints are essentially identical to those of firefighter clothing because it is necessary to be able to wick away perspiration throughout the race without neglecting flame resistance when an incident occurs.

[0065] The textile part 1 may be a luggage textile part. The textile part may be a furnishing textile part in order to better meet the constraints on flame-retardant textiles. The textile part 1 may be part of a piece of furniture, for example an armchair, a sofa, a seat.

[0066] It is particularly advantageous for the textile piece 1 to have meta-aramid yarns and para-aramid yarns in order to combine the advantages of each of the yarns. In a particular embodiment, the meta-aramid yarns and the para-aramid yarns are bonded together to form a single yarn. For example, the meta-aramid fibers and the para-aramid fibers are combined together during the same spinning step. The sheath is formed around the para-aramid and meta-aramid yarn. It is also possible to form a textile piece with two plies, namely an inner ply and an outer ply. The inner ply is formed mainly or exclusively by meta-aramid yarns while the outer ply is formed mainly or exclusively by para-aramid yarns each coated by a sheath 5. The reverse is also possible.

[0067] According to the invention, the textile piece 1 is obtained by weaving. The first threads 2a belong at least to the warp threads and they can belong to the warp threads and to the weft threads.

[0068] For example, a fabric 1 obtained by weaving has at least one warp thread as well as several weft threads as illustrated in figure 2 . The at least one warp thread and the weft threads are identical. If the fabric 1 is formed by several warp threads and / or several weft threads, the latter are then identical. In embodiments outside the invention, if the fabric 1 is obtained by knitting as illustrated in figure 3 , the threads forming the knit are preferably identical. The same applies if the fabric 1 is obtained by braiding as illustrated in figure 4 .

[0069] By formed by several threads, it is meant that the fabric 1 has different threads. The threads are different in their mechanical performance and / or in their compositions. If the fabric 1 is obtained by weaving, it is possible to use several weft threads and / or several warp threads and at least one of the threads is different from the first thread 2a. In embodiments outside the invention, if the fabric 1 is obtained by knitting, it is possible to use several threads of which at least one is different from the first thread 2a. If the fabric is obtained by braiding, it is possible to use several threads of which at least one is different from the first thread 2a. For example, the figure 3 illustrates an embodiment in which at least one additional wire 2b is different from the first wire 2a.

[0070] The sheath 5 can be formed around the core 4 by any known method, for example by coating, by extrusion, by physical vapor deposition or by chemical deposition, for example by a sol-gel process.

[0071] To form the fabric 1, it is possible to use a first yarn 2 which has a count between 50dTex and 3300dTex. The choice of the count of the first yarn 2 can be made according to the expected flexibility characteristics. If the fabric 1 is formed by several yarns, it is advantageous for all the yarns to have a count between 50dTex and 3300dTex.

[0072] In an advantageous embodiment, the core of the first yarn 2a has a tenacity of between 6cN / Tex and 40cN / Tex. Such tenacity makes it possible to have a fabric 1 that is particularly well suited to resisting deformation of the fabric 1 without breaking.

[0073] It is advantageous to provide that the fabric 1 has a surface mass of between 110g / m 2 and 500g / m 2. The surface mass of the fabric 1 can be defined by judiciously choosing the count of the yarn(s) forming the fabric and the weave of the fabric 1.

Claims

1. Textile part (1) comprising a plurality of woven yarns (2), wherein: - the plurality of yarns (2) comprises at least 10% of first yarns (2a), - each first yarn (2a) has a core (4) made of a first material and a sheath (5) made of a second material different from the first material; - the first material is a para-aramid, a carbon fiber or a glass fiber; - the sheath (5) forms a water-tight barrier and an ultraviolet radiation-blocking barrier around the core (4), the second material being made of a material different from the first material; wherein the sheath (5) of each first yarn (2a) is spaced from adjacent yarns (2a, 2b) by a void or by a layer of a material more flexible than the second material and characterized in that the textile part (1) defines a first portion (1a) with a first surface content of first yarns (2a) and a second portion (1b) with a second surface content of first yarns (2a) greater than the first surface content and wherein at least one first yarn (2a) extends continuously through the first portion (1a) and the second portion (1b).

2. Textile part (1) according to claim 1 comprising at least a first additional yarn (2b) chosen from one or more meta-aramid yarns, one or more ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene yarns, one or more poly(p-phenylene-2,6-benzobisoxazole) yarns, one or more viscose yarns, one or more modacrylic yarns, one or more polyamide yarns, one or more polyester yarns, one or more polyvinyl alcohol PVA yarns, one or more polybenzimidazole PBI yarns, the at least one additional yarn optionally comprising a flame-retardant additive.

3. Textile part (1) according to claim 2 wherein the first yarns (2a) and the at least one first additional yarn (2b) represent the majority of the yarns (2) forming the textile part (1).

4. Textile part (1) according to any one of claims 2 and 3 wherein a ratio between an average linear density of the first yarns (2a) and an average linear density of the additional yarns (2b) (Tadditional yarns / Tfirst yarns) is between 0.5 and 10, the average linear density being an average linear density in number.

5. Textile part (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the second material is chosen from polyurethane ether, polyurethane ester, polyurethane polyacrylate, silicone, polyolefin, thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) or a mixture of these optionally with added fillers.

6. Textile part (1) according to any of the preceding claims wherein the core (4) of each first yarn (2a) is formed by one or a plurality of fibers which each extend continuously from one end to the other of the textile part (1).

7. Textile part (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 6 wherein the sheath (5) of each first yarn (2a) is spaced from adjacent yarns (2a, 2b) by a void and devoid of a coating layer continuously connecting the first yarns (2a) so as to define an air-permeable textile part.

8. Textile part (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 6 wherein the textile part (1) is a fabric comprising a weave density of between 10 and 40 yarns / cm to form a waterproof and air-permeable textile part (1.

9. Garment (3) comprising a textile part (1) according to any of the preceding claim.

10. Garment (3) according to claim 9 which is a fire protection suit.

11. A method of manufacturing a textile part (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 8 comprising the following steps: - providing at least one first yarn (2a) having a core (4) made of a first material and a sheath (5) made of a second material different from the first material, the first material being a para-aramid, a carbon fiber or a glass fiber, the sheath (5) forming a waterproof barrier and an ultraviolet radiation-blocking barrier around the core (4); - weaving the at least one first yarn (2) to form the textile part (1) comprising at least 10% of first yarns (2a), the sheath (5) of each first yarn (2a) being spaced from adjacent yarns (2a, 2b) by a void or by a layer of a material more flexible than the second material; wherein the textile part (1) is a fabric defining a first portion (1a) with a first surface content of first yarns (2a) and a second portion (1b) with a second surface content of first yarns (2a) greater than the first surface content and wherein at least one first yarn (2a) extends continuously through the first portion (1a) and the second portion (1b).

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