A process for removing color from previously colored keratin hair fibers
A composition of (poly) carbodiimide compounds and glycol ether effectively removes temporary hair color from keratin fibers, ensuring homogeneous color removal and resistance to shampooing.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2021002352
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2021-03-10
- Publication Date
- 2025-04-25
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-03-10
AI Technical Summary
Existing methods for removing temporary hair color are not effective and lack consistency in achieving homogeneous color removal without damaging the hair.
A composition comprising (poly) carbodiimide compounds, glycol ether, and optionally alkyl or alkylene carbonate, along with pigments or direct dyes, is applied to remove color from previously colored hair keratin fibers.
The composition effectively removes temporary hair color while maintaining hair integrity, providing homogeneous color removal and resistance to shampooing.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Method for removing color from previously colored keratin hair fibers
[0001] The present invention relates to a method for removing color from hair keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising applying at least one color-removing composition to said hair keratin fibers, such as hair, having been previously colored using at least one hair keratin fiber coloring composition comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound and at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, said color-removing composition comprising at least one glycol ether.
[0002] The invention further relates to a composition for removing color from hair keratin fibers, such as hair, having been previously colored with a hair keratin fiber coloring composition, comprising at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, including:
[0003] - at least 5% by weight of at least one glycol ether relative to the total weight of the composition for removing color;
[0004] - at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate;
[0005] - optionally at least one polyol other than glycol ethers.
[0006] The present invention also relates to the use of the composition for removing color according to the invention, or as used in the process according to the invention, from hair keratin fibers which have been previously colored with a hair keratin fiber coloring composition, such as hair, comprising at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures. technical field
[0007] In the field of coloring keratin fibers, particularly human, it is already known to color hair keratin fibers, such as hair, by different techniques from direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent colorings or from dye precursors for permanent colorings.
[0008] There are essentially three types of hair coloring processes:
[0009] a) so-called permanent coloring which has the function of bringing about a significant change in the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation;
[0010] b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not implement the oxidative condensation process and resists 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing the keratin fibers with dyeing compositions containing direct dyes;
[0011] c) Temporary hair coloring that results in a change to the natural hair color that lasts from one shampoo to the next and serves to enhance or correct a previously achieved shade. It can also be considered a "makeup" process.
[0012] For this latter type of coloring, it is known to use colored polymers formed by grafting one or more dyes of azo, triphenylmethane, azinic, indoamine, or anthraquinone nature onto a polymer chain. These colored polymers are not entirely satisfactory, particularly with regard to the homogeneity of the color obtained and its resistance, not to mention the problems related to their manufacture and especially their reproducibility.
[0013] Another coloring method involves using pigments. Indeed, applying pigment to the surface of keratin fibers generally allows for visible coloring on dark hair, since the surface pigment masks the fiber's natural color. This coloring method also allows for the creation of coloring compositions that offer the advantage of providing a homogeneous colored coating on keratin fibers, particularly hair, while forming a coating that resists shampooing and various aggressions to which hair may be subjected, such as brushing and / or rubbing, without damaging the hair.
[0014] However, there are no processes using compositions to effectively remove color with this type of temporary color composition that is residual with shampoos.
[0015] There therefore remains a need for a process enabling the efficient removal of color from hair keratin fibers such as hair that has been previously colored using said residual coloring compositions in shampoos.
[0016] Thus, the object of the present invention is to develop a process for removing color from hair keratin fibers, such as hair, with good efficiency. Description of the invention
[0017] This objective is achieved with the present invention, which relates to a method for removing color from previously colored keratin hair fibers, such as hair, comprising applying at least one color-removing composition to said previously colored keratin hair fibers using at least a hair coloring composition for keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:
[0018] - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound; and
[0019] - at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures;
[0020] said composition for removing color comprising:
[0021] - at least one glycol ether; and
[0022] - optionally at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate.
[0023] The invention also relates to a composition for removing color from hair keratin fibers, such as hair, having been previously colored with a hair keratin fiber coloring composition comprising at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, including:
[0024] - at least 5% by weight of at least one glycol ether relative to the total weight of the composition for removing color;
[0025] - at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate;
[0026] - optionally at least one polyol other than glycol ethers.
[0027] The invention also relates to the use of the color-removing composition according to the invention, or as used in the process according to the invention, to remove color from hair keratin fibers, such as hair, having been previously colored with a coloring composition comprising at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures.
[0028] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow.
[0029] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
[0030] The expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0031] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The features of the different examples can, in particular, be combined within non-illustrated variants.
[0032] For the purposes of the present invention and, unless otherwise indicated,
[0033] - an "alkyl" radical designates a saturated linear or branched radical containing by example of 1 to 20 carbon atoms;
[0034] - an "aminoalkyl" radical means an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an NH2 group;
[0035] - a "hydroxyalkyl" radical means an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an OH group;
[0036] - an "alkylene" radical designates a divalent saturated hydrocarbon group at C2-C4, linear or branched, such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene;
[0037] - a "cycloalkyl" or "alicycloalkyl" radical designates a hydrocarbon group saturated cyclic mono- or bicyclic, preferably monocyclic, comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 13 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, or norbornyl, in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, or a cyclohexyl. It being understood that the cycloalkyl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is then an isoboromyl group.
[0038] - a "cycloalkylene" radical designates a divalent cycloalkyl group with " cycloalkyl” as defined above, preferably in C3-Ci2;
[0039] - an "aryl" radical is an unsaturated and aromatic hydrocarbon cyclic radical, comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 12 carbon atoms, mono / bi / or tri / cyclic, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 ring of 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl, or methylnaphthyl, preferably the aryl group represents phenyl;
[0040] - an "arylene" radical is a divalent aryl radical with "aryl" as defined previously preferred arylene represents phenylene;
[0041] - a "heterocyclic" radical designates a mono or polycyclic, saturated or unsaturated, non-aromatic or aromatic, comprising one or more heteroatoms preferably of 1 to 5 atoms chosen from O, S or N, comprising from 3 to 20 links preferably between 5 and 10 links such as imidazolyl, pyrrolyl and furanyl;
[0042] - a "heterocycloalkylene" radical is a divalent heterocyclic group with "heterocyclic" as defined above;
[0043] - an "aryloxy" radical designates an aryl-oxy radical with "aryl" as defined previously;
[0044] - an "alkoxy" radical designates an alkyl-oxy radical with "alkyl" as defined previously;
[0045] - an "acyloxy" radical designates an ester radical RC(O)-O- with R an alkyl group as defined previously;
[0046] - a "reactive" group is a group capable of forming a bond covalent with another group, identical or different, by chemical reaction
[0047] The term “hair keratin fibers” refers particularly to human hair keratin fibers, such as hair, and preferably hair. The terms “keratin fibers” and “hair keratin fibers” have the same meaning in the following description. Polycarbodiimide compound
[0048] As previously stated, the hair keratin fiber coloring composition used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound.
[0049] The composition may comprise at least two distinct (poly)carbodiimide compounds, present in mixture in the hair keratin fiber coloring composition.
[0050] The term "(poly)carbodiimide compound" means a compound comprising one or more carbodiimide group(s), preferably at least two carbodiimide groups, more preferably at least three carbodiimide groups, in particular the number of carbodiimide groups not exceeding 200, preferably 150, more preferably 100.
[0051] The term “carbodiimide group” means a divalent linear triatomic fraction of general formula - (N=C=N) -.
[0052] The (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) according to the invention may optionally comprise in their structure one or more reactive groups other than carbodiimide groups, selected from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide and azacyclopropane.
[0053] The reactive group(s) other than the carbodiimide groups may be pendant or terminal. Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) comprise one or more terminal groups other than the carbodiimide groups, preferably one or more terminal groups selected from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide and azacyclopropane.
[0054] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of the following formula (I): OO I [ 1 I R^Xf ^X?-~R2 H l KH (I),
[0055] in which:
[0056] - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
[0057] - Ri and R2 independently represent a grouping chosen from a radical hydrocarbon, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, a group selected from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide, and azacyclopropane, and a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and by one or more groups selected from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehyde alkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl,acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxides such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide, and azacyclopropane; ,
[0058] - n denotes an integer from 1 to 1000; and
[0059] - A is a monomer selected from the compounds below:
[0060] According to another embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of the following formula (la): O (there)
[0061] in which:
[0062] - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
[0063] - Yiet Y2 represent, independently, a divalent organic radical chosen from a saturated aliphatic group in C36 at Ci or an aromatic or alkylaromatic group in C6 to C24, the aliphatic or aromatic group optionally comprising one or more non-pending heteroatoms, such as nitrogen atom, oxygen atom, sulfur atom, or combinations thereof;
[0064] - Zi and Z2 represent, independently, a reactive terminal group or a group inert terminal;
[0065] - as an inert terminal group, Zi and Z2 can represent, independently, a saturated aliphatic group, linear or branched or cyclic, in the C1 to C50 range, or an aromatic group in the C6 to C18 range, said aliphatic and aromatic groups comprising possibly from 1 to 10 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and their combinations, and the aliphatic or aromatic group may be partially or totally fluorinated; in this variant, Zi and Z2 comprise a CG linking group connecting Zi to Yi and Z2 to Y2, the CG group being a single covalent bond, a saturated CC bond, an unsaturated covalent CC bond, an amide group, an ester group, a carbonate group, a thioester group, an ether group, a urethane group, a thiourethane group or a urea group;
[0066] - as a reactive terminal group, Zi and Z2 can be chosen from the alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide groups such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide and azacyclopropane;
[0067] - Q represents an organopolymer or an organo-oligomer comprising units repetitive saturated aliphatic groups, linear or branched or cyclic, or aromatic groups or alkylaromatic groups, coupled by repetitive carbonate, ester, ether, amide, urethane or urea bonds or their combinations;
[0068] - A represents a divalent aliphatic, aromatic, alkylaromatic or linear, saturated, branched or cyclic having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally including one or more non-pending heteroatoms, such as nitrogen atom, oxygen atom, sulfur atom, or combinations thereof, in the aliphatic chain or aromatic chain;
[0069] - r denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1;
[0070] - m denotes an integer from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1;
[0071] - m' designates an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1;
[0072] - n denotes an integer from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1 with m+ (m'*n ) > 2.
[0073] Preferably, Zi and Z2 represent, independently, a reactive terminal group, more preferably, Zi and Z2 represent, independently, a group selected from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide, and azacyclopropane.
[0074] Such (poly)carbodümide compounds are marketed for example by the company Stahl BV, under the name Permutex XR, or under the name RelcaLinklO., under the name Picassian XL and Nisshinbo compounds marketed under the name CARBODILITE with the series V-02, V-02-L2, SV-02, E-02, V-10, SW-12G, E-03A, E-04DG-T, E-05, V-04, V-02B, V-04PF, V-05.
[0075] Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is / are chosen from the compounds of the following formula (II): (II),
[0076] in which:
[0077] - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
[0078] - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0079] - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denotes a integer ranging from 1 to 3;
[0080] - Li independently represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in Cr Cig, a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-Ci2 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;
[0081] - E independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0082] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-,
[0083] in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0084] - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a hydrocarbon radical saturated divalent, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0085] - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0086] The term “hydrocarbon radical” means a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical having from 1 to 300 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 250 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 200 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon radical is a linear and saturated radical.
[0087] The hydrocarbon radical may comprise one or more cyclic groups.
[0088] The hydrocarbon radical can be interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), in particular chosen from O, S or N and / or substituted by one or more cation(s), anion(s), or zwitterion(s) or cationic group(s) such as ammonium, anionic group(s) such as carboxylate, or zwitterionic group(s), and / or comprising a metal ion which can be incorporated in the form of a salt.
[0089] The term "heteroatom(s)" means an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or a nitrogen atom N, as well as halogen atoms such as Cl, F, Br and I. If the heteroatom is included in the chain of the hydrocarbon radical, the heteroatom is preferably chosen from among the oxygen atoms O, sulfur atoms S or nitrogen atoms N.
[0090] Preferably, Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom.
[0091] Preferably, Ri and R2 are chosen independently from dialkylaminoalcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof.
[0092] According to a preferred embodiment, Ri and R2 are chosen independently from the following groupings (i) to (iv):
[0093] (i) the compound of the following formula (III):
[0094] R7-OC(O)-C(R8)(H)-(III),
[0095] wherein R7 represents a Ci-C3 alkyl group, and R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C3 alkyl group, preferably R7 is a methyl and R8 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
[0096] (ii) the compound of the following formula (IV):
[0097] R9-[0-CH2-C(H)(Rio)]p-(IV),
[0098] wherein R9 represents a CrC4 alkyl group, Rio represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl group and p denotes an integer from 1 to 3; preferably, R9 is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R10 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and p is equal to 1.
[0099] (iii) the compound of the following formula (V):
[0100] (Rh)2N-CH2-C(H)(Ri2)- (V),
[0101] wherein Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group and Rn represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group; preferably Ru is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and Rn is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
[0102] (iv) the compound of the following formula (VI):
[0103] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI),
[0104] wherein Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, RM represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30; preferably Rn is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R[4 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
[0105] Preferably, Ri and R2 independently represent a compound of formula (VI) in which Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30.
[0106] According to an alternative embodiment, Ri and R2 are different and one of the radicals Ri or R2 represents a compound of formula (IV) as described above and the other radical Ri or R2 represents a compound of formula (VI) as described above.
[0107] Preferably, in formula (IV), R9 is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R10 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and p is equal to 1.
[0108] Preferably, in formula (VI), Rn is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and RM is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30.
[0109] According to another alternative embodiment, Ri and R2 are identical and represent a compound of formula (VI) in which Rn represents a Cr C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, RM represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30.
[0110] Preferably, n denotes an integer from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.
[0111] Preferably, z denotes an integer from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.
[0112] Preferably, w is equal to 1.
[0113] Preferably, w is equal to 1, n+z denotes an integer from 4 to 10.
[0114] Preferably, Li is chosen from a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in C1-C18 such as methylene, ethylene, and propylene, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, and cyclohexylene, a C3-Ci2 heterocycloalkylene group such as imidazolene, pyrrolene, and furanylene, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group such as phenylene, and mixtures thereof.
[0115] For example, Li can be chosen from a radical derived from tolylene diisocyanate, hexamethylene diisocyanate, xylylene diisocyanate, 2,2,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate, 1,12-diisocyanate dodecane, norbornane diisocyanate, 2,4-bis-(8-isocyanateoctyl)-1,3-dioctylcyclobutane, 4,4'-dicylclohexylmethane diisocyanate, tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, 1,5-naphthylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenyldimethylmethane diisocyanate and phenylene diisocyanate and mixtures thereof.
[0116] Preferably, Li is selected from a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, or a C6-C14 arylene group and mixtures thereof, such as the compounds of the following formula (VII):
[0117] Preferably, L1 is the 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane corresponding to the following formula (VIII):
[0118] According to another embodiment, when L1 is an arylene group at C6-Ci4, Li is not the m-tetramethylxylylene radical represented by the following formula (IX): (IX).
[0119] As stated previously, E independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0120] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0121] in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0122] - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a hydrocarbon radical saturated divalent, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); and
[0123] - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0124] Preferably, R3 and R4 are chosen independently from a C6-Cu arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s) and mixtures thereof.
[0125] More preferably, R3 and R4 are chosen independently from a linear or Ci-Ci8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0126] Preferably, when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0127] Preferably, R6 is selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0128] Preferably, E represents an -O-R3-O- group in which R3 is selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0129] More preferably, E represents a -O-R3-O- group in which R3 represents a linear or Ci-Ci8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0130] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a copolymer derived from alpha-methylstyryl-isocyanates of the following formula (X): (X),
[0131] in which R independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms or an aryl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and,
[0132] n denotes an integer from 2 to 100.
[0133] In this embodiment, the term “alkyl group” is as defined above.
[0134] In this embodiment, the term "cycloalkyl group" is as defined above.
[0135] In this embodiment, n can denote an integer from 2 to 50, preferably from 3 to 30, more preferably from 5 to 10.
[0136] According to another particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of the following formula (XI): (XI),
[0137] in which R independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, or an aryl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0138] The "alkyl group", the "cycloalkyl group" and the "aryl group" are as defined above.
[0139] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is selected from compounds of formula (I) or formula (II) in which:
[0140] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0141] - Ri and R2 are chosen independently from among the dialkylaminoalcohols, the alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof, preferably monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, more preferably the compound of formula (VI) as previously described in which R13 represents a CrC4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a CrC4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30;
[0142] - n and z, when present, denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n +z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
[0143] - Li, when present, is chosen from an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical divalent in CrCi8, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5, a heterocycloalkylene group in C3-Ci2, or an arylene group in C6-Ci4, and mixtures thereof, preferably a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5;
[0144] - A, when present, is chosen from an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical divalent in CrCi8, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5, a heterocycloalkylene group in C3-Ci2, or an arylene group in C6-Ci4, and mixtures thereof, preferably a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5;
[0145] - E, when present, independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0146] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0147] wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
[0148] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5, when present, is chosen including a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
[0149] - R6, when present, is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci2, a linear or branched alkylene radical in CrCi8, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0150] Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0151] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0152] - Ri and R2 are chosen independently from among the dialkylaminoalcohols, the alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof;
[0153] - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
[0154] - Li is chosen from a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in CrCi8, a cycloalkylene radical at C3-Ci5, a heterocycloalkylene group at C3-Ci2, or an arylene group at C6-Ci4, and mixtures thereof;
[0155] - E independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0156] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0157] wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
[0158] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from an arylene radical in C6-Ci4, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci2, a linear or branched alkylene radical in CrCi8, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
[0159] - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0160] More preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0161] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0162] - Ri and R2, are independently of (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed;
[0163] - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
[0164] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical;
[0165] - E independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0166] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0167] wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
[0168] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from an arylene radical in C6-Ci4, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci2, a linear or branched alkylene radical in Ci-Ci8, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
[0169] - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0170] Even more preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0171] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0172] - Ri and R2, independently represent the compound of the following formula (VI):
[0173] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI),
[0174] wherein R13 represents a CrC4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a CrC4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R[4 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30;
[0175] - n and z denote an integer from 2 to 20, with n+z from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;
[0176] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, the cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene, and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and
[0177] - E represents a grouping -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a radical arylene in C6-Ci4, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci2, a linear or branched alkylene radical in Ci-Ci8, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0178] Even more preferably, the (poly)carbodihnide compound is chosen from compounds of formula (I) in which:
[0179] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0180] - Ri and R2, independently represent the compound of the following formula (VI):
[0181] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI)
[0182] wherein R13 represents a CrC4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a CrC4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R[4 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30;
[0183] - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;
[0184] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, the cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene, 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and
[0185] - E represents a group- -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a radical linear or CrCi8 branched alkylene such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0186] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound with the following formula (XII):
[0187]
[0188]
[0189]
[0190]
[0191] (XII), in which L1 is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents an -O-R3-O- group in which R3 represents a linear or Ci-Ci8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer from 4 to 30. The total quantity of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) present in the colouring composition is preferably from 0.01 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, better from 0.2 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the colouring composition. Coloring agent As previously stated, the hair keratin fiber coloring composition used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the hair keratin fiber coloring composition includes one or more pigments. The term "pigment" refers to all pigments that impart color to keratinous materials. Their solubility in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%.
[0192] The pigments that can be used are chosen in particular from among the organic and / or mineral pigments known in the technique, in particular those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.
[0193] They may be natural, of natural origin, or not.
[0194] These pigments may be in the form of a powder or pigment paste. They may be coated or uncoated.
[0195] Pigments can, for example, be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lacquers, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and mixtures thereof.
[0196] The pigment may be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment, we mean any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and titanium dioxide.
[0197] The pigment may be an organic pigment. By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment.
[0198] The organic pigment may in particular be selected from the following compounds: nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.
[0199] In particular, white or colored organic pigments may be selected from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under reference CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0200] By way of example, one can also cite organic pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name:
[0201] - COSMENYL YELLOW IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710);
[0202] - COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680);
[0203] - ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71105);
[0204] - COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085);
[0205] - CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490);
[0206] - VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319);
[0207] - COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160);
[0208] - COSMENYL GREEN GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260);
[0209] - COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).
[0210] The pigments according to the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment covering at least partially the core.
[0211] The organic pigment can also be a lake. By lake, we mean colorants adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0212] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
[0213] Among the colorants, we can mention carminic acid. We can also mention the colorants known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0214] As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).
[0215] The pigment can also be a special effects pigment. Special effects pigments are defined as pigments that generally create a non-uniform and changing colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, vibrancy, and clarity) depending on the viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angles, etc.). They are thus distinct from colored pigments that provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent, or conventionally transparent tint.
[0216] There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as mother-of-pearl, interference pigments or glitter.
[0217] Examples of special effect pigments include pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica with iron oxides, iron oxide-coated mica, titanium-coated mica, particularly with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium-coated mica with an organic pigment as defined above, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. Examples of pearlescent pigments include Cellini pearlescent pigments marketed by BASF (Mica-TiO2-lacquer), Prestige pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2), Prestige Bronze pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-Fe2O3), and Colorona pearlescent pigments marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO2-Fe2O3).
[0218] We can also mention gold-colored mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the names Brilliant Gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by BASF under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the names Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica);red-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red-tinted mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone);black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica); blue mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna); white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver; and orange-pink-green-gold mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and their mixtures.
[0219] As further examples of nacres, we can also mention particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
[0220] Particles with a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.
[0221] Finally, examples of mother-of-pearl include polyethylene terephthalate flakes, particularly those marketed by Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes). Multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum can also be considered.
[0222] Special effect pigments may also be selected from reflective particles, that is to say, particles whose size, structure, including the thickness of the layer(s) that constitute them and their physical and chemical nature, and surface condition, enable them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create, on the surface of the composition or mixture, when applied to the makeup support, highlights visible to the naked eye, that is to say, brighter points that contrast with their surroundings by appearing to shine.
[0223] Reflective particles can be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may, in particular, have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection.
[0224] These particles can have various shapes, including platelet or globular, particularly spherical.
[0225] Reflective particles, whatever their shape, may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.
[0226] When reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they can be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.
[0227] When reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may, for example, comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated by at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and / or inorganic.
[0228] More specifically, it may be selected from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and mixtures thereof, this list not being exhaustive.
[0229] The reflective material may include a layer of metal or a metallic material.
[0230] Reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
[0231] As further examples of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, one can also mention particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.
[0232] Silver-coated glass substrate particles in the form of wafers are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy-coated glass substrate particles are sold under the names CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.
[0233] Particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminium, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium may also be used, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminium oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.
[0234] An example can be cited as aluminium, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO2 marketed under the name VISIONAIRE by the company ECKART.
[0235] Other examples include non-substrate interference pigments such as liquid crystals (Wacker's Helicones HC) and interference holographic glitter (Spectratek's Geometry Pigments or Spectra f / x). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether daylight fluorescent or ultraviolet fluorescent, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments, and quantum dots, marketed, for example, by Quantum Dots Corporation.
[0236] The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic, interference effects.
[0237] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 µm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 µm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 µm.
[0238] The pigments can be dispersed in the composition by means of a dispersing agent.
[0239] The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles from agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, bearing one or more functionalities with a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can bind physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also possess at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid are used, especially C8 to C20 fatty acids and polyols such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750g / mol such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (name CTFA) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by Henkel or polyhydroxystearic acid such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by Uniqema and their mixtures.
[0240] As another dispersant that can be used in the compositions of the invention, we can mention quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17 000 sold by Avecia, poly dimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.
[0241] The pigments used in the composition can be surface treated with an organic agent.
[0242] Thus, the pigments previously surface-treated useful within the framework of the invention are pigments which have undergone totally or partially a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electro-chemical, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64 before being dispersed in the composition according to the invention.These organic agents may be chosen, for example, from waxes, such as carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethyl methacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanoamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; Fluoro-silicon compounds.
[0243] The surface-treated pigments useful in the composition may also have been treated by a mixture of these compounds and / or have undergone several surface treatments.
[0244] The surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the present invention can be prepared using surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found as such in the commercial market.
[0245] Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are covered by an organic layer.
[0246] The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surfactant or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.
[0247] Surface treatment can thus be achieved, for example, by a chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and the creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or fillers. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.
[0248] Preferably, an organic agent covalently linked to the pigments will be used.
[0249] The surface treatment agent may represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the pigment treated on the surface, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the pigment treated on the surface.
[0250] Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments:
[0251] - a PEG-Silicone treatment such as the AQ surface treatment marketed by LCW;
[0252] - a Methicone treatment such as the SI surface treatment marketed by LCW;
[0253] - a Dimethicone treatment such as the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW;
[0254] - a Dimethicone / Trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment as the surface treatment Covasil 4.05 marketed by LCW;
[0255] - a Magnesium Myristate treatment such as MM surface treatment marketed by LCW;
[0256] - an Aluminium Dimyristate treatment such as the MI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi;
[0257] - a Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment as a surface treatment FHC marketed by LCW;
[0258] - an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment such as the commercially available HS surface treatment by Miyoshi;
[0259] - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment as a PF surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0260] - an acrylate / dimethicone copolymer and perfluoalkyl phosphate treatment such as the FSA surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0261] - a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the FS01 surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0262] - an Acrylate / Dimethicone Copolymer treatment as a surface treatment ASC marketed by Daito;
[0263] - an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0264] - an Acrylate copolymer treatment such as the APD surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0265] - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate / Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the PF + ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito.
[0266] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersing agent is present with organic or inorganic pigments in submicron-sized particulate form in composition B.
[0267] By "sub-micronic" or in English "sub-micronic" is meant pigments whose particle size has been micronized by micronization method and whose average particle size is less than one micrometer (pm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 pm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 pm.
[0268] According to one embodiment, the dispersing agent and the pigment(s) are present in quantity (dispersing agent: pigment), according to a weight ratio, between 1:4 and 4:1, particularly between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better between 1.75:3 and 3:1.
[0269] The dispersing agent(s) may therefore have a silicone skeleton, such as silicone polyether and amino-silicone dispersants. Suitable dispersing agents include:
[0270] - amino-silicones i.e. silicones comprising one or more amino groups such than those marketed under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879, by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, marketed by Genesee les polymers,
[0271] - silicone acrylates such as Tego ® RC 902, Tego ® RC 922, Tego ® RC 1041, and Tego ® RC 1043, marketed by Evonik,
[0272] - polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones with carboxylic groups such as X- 22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, silicone epoxy such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682, and GP-695, by Genesee Polymers, or Tego ® RC 1401, Tego ® RC 1403, Tego ® RC 1412, by Evonik.
[0273] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are of the amino-silicone type and are cationic.
[0274] Preferably, the pigment(s) is / are chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.
[0275] In one embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent selected from silicone compounds. In another embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) are mineral pigments.
[0276] Direct dye
[0277] The hair keratin fiber coloring composition used in the process according to the invention may include one or more direct dye(s).
[0278] By "direct dye" we mean natural and / or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes that will diffuse superficially onto the fiber.
[0279] They can be ionic or non-ionic, preferably cationic or non-ionic.
[0280] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.
[0281] Direct dyes are preferably cationic direct dyes. Examples include the hydrazono cationic dyes of formulas (III) and (IV), and the azo cationic dyes (V) and (VI) below: He^-NCRàyN^R^-Ar,. Q- (IV), Her-CCRa^N-NCRb)-^ Q HeT-N=N-Ar, Q- (V)'
[0282] formulas (III) to (VI) in which:
[0283] - Het+ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferentially charged endocyclic cationic such as imidazolium, indolium, or pyridinium, possibly preferentially substituted by at least one (Ci-C8)alkyl group such as methyl;
[0284] - Ar+ represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, with a cationic charge exocyclic preferentially ammonium particularly tri(Ci-C8)alkyl-ammonium such as trimethylammonium;
[0285] - Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, possibly substituted, preferably by one or more electron-donating groups such as i) (Cr C8)alkyl possibly substituted, ii) (Ci-C8)alkoxy possibly substituted, iii) (di)(CrC8)(alkyl)amino possibly substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(Ci-C8)alkylamino, v) N-(Ci-C8)alkyl-N-aryl(Ci-C8)alkylamino possibly substituted or else Ar represents a julolidine group;
[0286] - Ar” represents a (hetero)aryl group possibly substituted such that phenyl or pyrazolyl possibly substituted, preferably by one or more (CrC8)alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(Ci-C8)(alkyl)amino, (Cr C8)alkoxy or phenyl groups;
[0287] - Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (CrC8)alkyl group possibly substituted, preferably by a hydroxyl group;
[0288] or the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het+ and / or Rb with a substituent of Ar together form with the atoms which bear them a (hetero)cycloalkyl; particularly Ra and Rb, representing a hydrogen atom or a (Cr C4)alkyl group possibly substituted by a hydroxyl group;
[0289] - Q- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.
[0290] In particular, mention may be made of endocyclic cationic azo and hydrazono direct dyes of formula (III) to (VI) as defined above; more particularly, endocyclic cationic direct dyes described in patent applications WO 95 / 15144, WO 95 / 01772 and EP-714954; preferably the following direct dyes: R< (VII).
[0291] Formulas (VII) and (VIII) in which:
[0292] - R1 represents an (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl;
[0293] - R2 and R3, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl; and
[0294] - R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as (Ci-C8)alkyl possibly substituted, (Ci-C8)alkoxy possibly substituted, (di) (Ci-C8)(alkyl)amino possibly substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group; particularly R4 is a hydrogen atom,
[0295] - Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH,
[0296] - Q- is an anionic counterion as defined above particularly halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesytyl.
[0297] In particular, the colorants of formula (V) and (VI) are chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or their derivatives with Q' an anionic counter ion as defined above, particularly a halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesytyl.
[0298] Direct dyes can be selected from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called "acid" direct dyes because of their affinity for alkali substances. Anionic direct dyes are understood to mean any direct dye having in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent, where R designates a hydrogen atom or a cation from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. Anionic dyes can be selected from acidic nitro direct dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azinic dyes, acidic triarylmethanic dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, indigoids, and acidic natural dyes.
[0299] As examples of acid dyes useful to the invention, the following dyes of formulas (IX), (IX'), (X), (X'), (XI), (XI'), (XII), (XII'), (XIII), (XIV), (XV) and (XVI) may be cited: a. Diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (IX) or (IX'):
[0300] formulas (IX) and (IX') in which:
[0301] - R7, R8, R9, Rio, R'7, R'8, R'9 and R'i0, whether identical or different, represent an atom of hydrogen or a group chosen from:
[0302] - alkyl;
[0303] - alkoxy, alkylthio;
[0304] - hydroxy, mercapto;
[0305] - nitro, nitroso;
[0306] - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing an atom hydrogen, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
[0307] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a counterion cationic;
[0308] - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined above;
[0309] - R”-S(O)2-, with R” representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an aryl group, (di)(alkyl)amino, aryl(alkyl)amino; preferably a phenylamino or phenyl group;
[0310] - R'”-S(O)2-X'- with R”' representing an alkyl group, possibly aryl substituted, X' as defined previously;
[0311] - (di)(alkyl)amino;
[0312] - aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more selected groups among i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+ and iv) alkoxy with M+ as defined previously;
[0313] - heteroaryl possibly substituted; preferably a group benzothiazolyl;
[0314] - cycloalkyl, in particular cyclohexyl;
[0315] - Ar-N=N- with Ar representing an aryl group possibly substituted; preferably a phenyl possibly substituted by one or more alkyl groups, (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or phenylamino;
[0316] - or two contiguous groups R7 with R8 or R8 with R9 or R9 with R10 together form a fused group benzo A'; and R'7 with R'8 or R'8 with R'9 or R'9 with R'1O together form a fused group benzo B'; with A' and B' possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X”-; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) aryl(alkyl)amino possibly substituted; with M+, R°, X, X', X” and Ar as defined above;
[0317] - W represents a sigma-o bond, an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or a radical divalent i) -NR- with R as defined above, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or Ra and Rb together with the carbon atom bearing them form a spiro cycloalkyl; preferably W represents a sulfur atom or Ra and Rb together form a cyclohexyl;
[0318] it being understood that the formulas (IX) and (IX') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical (O)CO—, M+ on one of the rings A, A', B, B' or C; preferably sodium sulfonate.
[0319] A titre d’exemple de colorants de formule (IX) on peut citer : Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2 ; Food yellow 3 ou sunset yellow;
[0320] et à titre d’exemple de colorants de formule (IX’) on peut citer : Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38 ;
[0321] b) les colorants azo anioniques pyrrazolone de formule (X) et (X’) : (X’),
[0322] formulas (X) and (X') in which:
[0323] - Ru, Rn and Rn, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, halogen, an alkyl group or -(O)2S(O-), M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0324] - Ru represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a group - C(O)O-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0325] - Rb represents a hydrogen atom;
[0326] - Ri6 represents an oxo group in which case R'i6 is absent, or else R[5 with R[6 together form a double bond;
[0327] - Rn and Ri8, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from:
[0328] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined above;
[0329] - Ar-OS(O)2- with Ar representing an aryl group possibly substituted; preferably a phenyl possibly substituted by one or more alkyl groups;
[0330] - R19 and R20 together form either a double bond or a benzo D' group, possibly substituted;
[0331] - R'16, R'19 and R'2O, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a alkyl group, or hydroxy;
[0332] - R2i represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, or alkoxy;
[0333] - Ra and Rb, whether identical or different, are as defined above, preferentially Ra represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents an aryl group;
[0334] - Y represents either a hydroxy group or an oxo group;
[0335] - - - - - represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxy group;
[0336] it being understood that the formulas (X) and (X') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+ on one of the rings D or E; preferably sodium sulfonate;
[0337] Examples of colorants of formula (X) include: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and examples of colorants of formula (X') include: Acid Yellow 17;
[0338] c) the anthraquinone dyes of formula (XI) and (XI'): (XI), (XD,
[0339] formulas (XI) and (XI') in which:
[0340] - R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27, whether identical or different, represent an atom of hydrogen, halogen, or a group chosen from:
[0341] - alkyl;
[0342] - hydroxy, mercapto;
[0343] - alkoxy, alkylthio;
[0344] - aryloxy or arylthio, possibly substituted, preferably substituted by a or several groups chosen from alkyl and (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0345] - aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more selected groups among alkyl and (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0346] - (di)(alkyl)amino;
[0347] - (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino
[0348] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined above;
[0349] - Z' represents a hydrogen atom or an NR28R29 group with R28 and R29, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
[0350] - alkyl;
[0351] - polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl;
[0352] - aryl possibly substituted by one or more particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R°, X, X' and X” as defined previously, preferably R° represents an alkyl group;
[0353] - cycloakyl, in particular cyclohexyl;
[0354] - Z represents a group chosen from hydroxy and NR'28R'29 with R'28 and R'29, identical or different, represent the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined previously;
[0355] it being understood that formulas (XI) and (XI') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate;
[0356] Examples of colorants of formula (XI) include: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT violet No. 2; and examples of colorants of formula (XI') include: Acid Black 48;
[0357] d) Nitrated dyes of formula (XII), (XII'): (XII), NQ, (XIT)
[0358] formulas (XII) and (XII') in which:
[0359] - R3o, R3i and R32, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, halogen, or a group selected from:
[0360] - alkyl;
[0361] - alkoxy possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, alkylthio possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups;
[0362] - hydroxy, mercapto;
[0363] - nitro, nitroso;
[0364] - polyhalogenoalkyl;
[0365] - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X' -C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X' ' - with R° ; X, X' and X” as defined previously;
[0366] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined above;
[0367] - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined above;
[0368] - (di)(alkyl)amino;
[0369] - (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;
[0370] - heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino; particularly R30, R3i and R32 represent a hydrogen atom;
[0371] - Rc and Rd, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a alkyl group;
[0372] - W is as defined above; W particularly represents a grouping -NH-;
[0373] - ALK represents a linear or branched divalent alkylene group, in Ci-C6; particularly ALK represents a grouping -CH2-CH2-;
[0374] - n is equal to 1 or 2;
[0375] - p represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusive;
[0376] - q represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive;
[0377] - u is equal to 0 or 1;
[0378] - when n equals 1, J represents a nitro or nitroso group; particularly nitro;
[0379] - when n equals 2, J represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or a divalent radical -S(0)m- with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferably J represents a radical -SO2-;
[0380] - M' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion;
[0381] - , a ... present or absent represents a benzo group possibly replaced by one or more R30 groups as defined above,
[0382] it being understood that formulas (XII) and (XII') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate.
[0383] By way of example of colorants of formula (XII) the following may be cited: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; by way of example of colorants of formula (XII') the following may be cited: Acid Yellow 1, Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 2(4'-N,N(2'-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethanesulfonic acid, 4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid; EXT D&C yellow 7;
[0384] e) triarylmethane dyes of formula (XIII): (XIII),
[0385] formula (XIII) in which:
[0386] - R33, R34, R35 and R36, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, possibly substituted aryl and possibly substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group possibly substituted by an (O)mS(O-)-, M+ group with M+ and m as defined above;
[0387] - R37, R38, R39, R40, R41, R42, R43 and R44, whether identical or different, represent an atom of hydrogen or a group chosen from:
[0388] - alkyl;
[0389] - alkoxy, alkylthio;
[0390] - (di)(alkyl)amino;
[0391] - hydroxy, mercapto;
[0392] - nitro, nitroso;
[0393] - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X' -C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X' ' - with R° representing an atom of hydrogen, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
[0394] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a counterion cationic;
[0395] - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined above;
[0396] - or two contiguous groups R41 with R42 or R42 with R43 or R43 with R44 together form a fused benzo group: I'; with I' possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X”-; with M+, R°, X, X', X” as defined above;
[0397] particularly R37 to R40 represent a hydrogen atom, and R4[ to R44, identical or different represent a hydroxy group or (O)2S(O-)-, M+; and when R43 with R44 together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted by an (O)2S(O-)- group;
[0398] provided that at least one of the rings G, H, I or I' comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)- or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-; preferably sulfonate.
[0399] Examples of colorants of formula (XIII) may be cited: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50.
[0400] f) xanthene-derived dyes of formula (XIV):
[0401] formula (XIV) in which:
[0402] - R45, R46, R47 and R48, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an atom of halogen;
[0403] - R47. R50, R51 and R52, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, halogen, or a group selected from:
[0404] - alkyl;
[0405] - alkoxy, alkylthio;
[0406] - hydroxy, mercapto;
[0407] - nitro, nitroso;
[0408] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a counterion cationic;
[0409] - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined above;
[0410] particularly R49, R50, R5i and R52 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom;
[0411] - G represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or an NRe group with Re such that defined previously; in particular G represents an oxygen atom;
[0412] - L represents an O-, M+ alkoxide; an S-, M+ thioalkoxide or an NRf group, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M+ as defined previously; M+ is particularly sodium or potassium;
[0413] - The ' represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom, or ammonium group: N +RfRg, with Rf and Rg, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, possibly substituted aryl; L' particularly represents an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group possibly substituted by one or more alkyl groups or (O)mS(O-)-, M+ with m and M+ as defined above;
[0414] - Q and Q', identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; in particular Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom;
[0415] - M+ is as defined previously.
[0416] Examples of colorants of formula (XIV) may be cited: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52; Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9;
[0417] g) dyes derived from indole of formula (XV): (XV),
[0418] formula (XV) in which:
[0419] - R53, R54, R55, R56, R57, R58, R59 and R60, whether identical or different, represent an atom of hydrogen or a group chosen from:
[0420] - alkyl;
[0421] - alkoxy, alkylthio;
[0422] - hydroxy, mercapto;
[0423] - nitro, nitroso;
[0424] - R°-C(X)-X' -, R°-X' -C(X)-, R°-X' -C(X)-X' ' - with R° representing an atom hydrogen, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
[0425] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a counterion cationic;
[0426] - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined above;
[0427] - G represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or an NRe group with Re such that defined previously; in particular G represents an oxygen atom;
[0428] - Ri and Rh, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a alkyl group;
[0429] it being understood that formula (XIII) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate.
[0430] As an example of colorants of formula (XV) we can cite: Acid Blue 74;
[0431] h) quinoline-derived dyes of formula (XVI):
[0432] formula (XVI) in which:
[0433] - R6i represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom or an alkyl group;
[0434] - R62, R63, and RM, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion;
[0435] or R6i with R62, or R6i with R64, together form a benzo group possibly substituted by one or more (O)2S(O-)- groups, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion;
[0436] it being understood that formula (XVI) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ preferably sodium sulfonate.
[0437] Examples of colorants of formula (XVI) include: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
[0438] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention are lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, and orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts, can also be used.
[0439] Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from among the anionic direct dyes.
[0440] The colouring agent(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the colouring composition.
[0441] The pigment(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair keratin fiber coloring composition.
[0442] The direct colorant(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the hair keratin fiber coloring composition. Non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent
[0443] The hair keratin fiber coloring composition may further include a non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent.
[0444] For the purposes of the present invention, "non-carboxylic agent" means an agent that does not include a carboxylic acid (-COOH) or carboxylate (-COO) function.
[0445] For the purposes of this invention, a thickening agent is defined as a compound which increases the viscosity of a composition into which it is introduced at a concentration of 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, by at least 20 cps, preferably at least 50 cps, at room temperature (25°C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s⁻¹ (the viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, Haake R600 rheometer or similar).
[0446] Preferably, the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) are chosen from non-carboxylic anionic polymers, more preferably from anionic polymers with sulfonic group(s).
[0447] For the purposes of this invention, anionic polymer means a polymer comprising one or more anionic or anionizable groups and not comprising any cationic or cationizable group.
[0448] Advantageously, the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) are chosen from anionic polymers comprising at least one monomer with ethylenic unsaturation and a sulfonic group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized.
[0449] These polymers can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked.
[0450] These polymers may be associative or non-associative, preferably non-associative.
[0451] It is recalled that "associative polymers" are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
[0452] Their chemical structure includes more particularly at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
[0453] By "hydrophobic group" is meant a hydrocarbon chain radical or polymer, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0454] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group is derived from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. It may also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.
[0455] Monomers with ethylenic unsaturation and a sulfonic group are selected in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(Cr C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido-(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecyl-acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid and their partially or totally neutralized forms.
[0456] More preferably, alkylsulfonic (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22) acids will be used, such as, for example, acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid, acrylamido-ethane-sulfonic acid, acrylamido-propane-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butane-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentane-sulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecyl-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptane-sulfonic acid, as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms.
[0457] In particular, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or totally neutralized forms will be used.
[0458] Among the copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, reference may be made to the crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and partially or totally neutralized acrylamide, and in particular the product described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853 may be cited, and reference may be made to this document for information relating to these polymers.
[0459] We can also mention copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or its salts and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as the compound sold under the name Sepinov EMT 10 by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: hydroxyethylacrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).
[0460] Associative AMPS polymers may in particular be selected from statistically associative AMPS polymers modified by reaction with an n-monoalkylamine or a di-n-alkylamine at C6-C22, and such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154 (forming an integral part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomers chosen for example from derivatives of (meth)acrylic acids, such as their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or poly-alkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0461] Preferred polymers of this family are chosen from among associative copolymers of AMPS and at least one hydrophobic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation.
[0462] These same copolymers may further contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers without a fatty chain such as (meth)acrylic acid derivatives, in particular their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or poly-alkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0463] These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-750899, US patent 5089578 and in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima:
[0464] - “Self-assembly amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures - Chinese Journal of Polymer Science Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336. » ;
[0465] - “Miscelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2- methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, Vol. 33, No. 10 (2000), 3694-3704”;
[0466] - “Solution properties of miscelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to an polyelectrolyte: known effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, Vol. 16, No. 12, (2000) 5324-5332”;
[0467] - “Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2- methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), 220-221”.
[0468] Among these polymers, we can mention:
[0469] - crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS motifs and from 40 to 85% by weight of (C8-Ci6)alkyl(meth)acrylamide or (C8-Ci6)alkyl(meth)acrylate motifs relative to the polymer, such as those described in application EP-A750 899;
[0470] - terpolymers comprising 10 to 90 mol% of acrylamide motifs, of 0.1 to 10 mole percent of AMPS motifs and 5 to 80 mole percent of n-(C6-Ci8)alkylacrylamide motifs, such as those described in US patent 5089578.
[0471] We can also mention copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate as well as AMPS and n- copolymers non-crosslinked and crosslinked dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above.
[0472] Preferably, the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) are selected from the sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonate / hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer, marketed by SEPPIC (INCI name: hydroxyethylacrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).
[0473] Advantageously, the total amount of the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the coloring composition. Silicone
[0474] The hair keratin fiber coloring composition may further comprise at least one silicone.
[0475] The silicone(s) are different from the compound(s) having at least one carboxylic acid group as defined below.
[0476] Preferably, the colouring composition comprises at least one silicone selected from non-amine silicones, amine silicones and mixtures thereof.
[0477] Silicones can be solid or liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa), volatile or non-volatile.
[0478] The silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils are preferred.
[0479] Silicones are described in detail in particular in Walter NOLL's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press.
[0480] Preferably, the colouring composition contains one or more liquid silicones at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).
[0481] Volatile silicones may be selected from those having a boiling point between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure), more particularly from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0482] Examples include products marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA.
[0483] - dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type cyclocopolymers with structure chemical: i—D — D CH, ------ — If — 0 — CH5 with D':
[0484] Preferably cyclomethylsiloxane.
[0485] One example is "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.
[0486] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds silicon derivatives, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;
[0487] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.106 m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.
[0488] Other silicones falling within this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; one can cite the product marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE.
[0489] Among non-volatile silicones, one can cite, alone or in mixtures, polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones), which are polysiloxanes having in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably selected from aryl groups, amine groups, alkoxy groups, and polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated groups. Preferably, non-volatile silicones are selected from polydimethyl / methylsiloxanes, possibly oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated.
[0490] Organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.
[0491] Among organomodified silicones, organopolysiloxanes comprising: - polyoxyethyleney and / or polyoxypropylene groups possibly containing C6-C24 alkyl groups such as dimethicone copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 oils from UNION CARBIDE; or alkyl(C12)-methicone copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200; - substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, in particular C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; examples include products marketed under the names GP4 Silicone Fluid and GP7100 by GENESEE, or under the names Q2-8220 and DC929 or DC939 by DOW CORNING; - thiol groups, such as the products marketed under the names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" from GENESEE; - alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT; - hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with a hydroxyalkyl function; - acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in US patent A-4957732. - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, such as described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from SHIN-ETSU; or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255", - hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in application EP342834; for example, the product Q2-8413 from DOW CORNING.
[0492] Silicones can also be selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the principal examples are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups. The following commercial products are examples of these polydialkylsiloxanes: - SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000; - oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA; - oils from the 200 series of DOW CORNING such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.
[0493] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 series from the RHODIA company.
[0494] In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also mention the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.
[0495] Products more particularly usable according to the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures formed from a chain-end hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by DOW CORNING, - mixtures formed from a chain-end hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a polydimethylsiloxane also called dimethicone (CTFA) such as the Xiameter® PMX-1503 Fluid product marketed by DOW CORNING.
[0496] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.105 to 5.10 2m2 / s at 25°C.
[0497] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can mention the products marketed under the following names: - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series by RHODIA; - the oils from the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; - silicones from the PK series by BAYER such as the PK20 product; - silicones from the PN, PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; - certain oils from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.
[0498] Preferably, the coloring composition comprises at least one amine-based silicone. "Aminated silicone" means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium group.
[0499] The average molecular masses by weight of these amino silicones can be measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C) in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are p-styragel columns. The eluent is THF, and the flow rate is 1 ml / min. 200 µL of a 0.5% (wt) silicone solution is injected into the THF. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV measurement.
[0500] Preferably, the amine-based silicone(s) that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen from:
[0501] a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A): HO---CH. 1 ' Si---O- CHj X' 1 .11 Z -o - z —o - 23 — OMM a 1 1 1 -■H y
[0502] in which x' and y' are integers such that the average molecular weight by weight (Mw) is between approximately 5,000 and 500,000;
[0503] b) Amino silicones corresponding to formula (B):
[0504] R'aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2-b)mO-SiG3-a-R'a (B)
[0505] wherein: - G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, alkyl group in CrC8, for example methyl, or alkoxy group in CrC8, for example methoxy, - a, identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group possibly quatemized chosen from the groups: -N(R")2 ; -N+(R")3 A- ; -NR"-QN(R")2 and -NR"-Q-N+(R")3 A-, in which R", identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a Ci-C2o alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
[0506] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are selected from the amino silicones of formula (B). Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (B) are selected from the amino silicones conforming to the following formulas (C), (D), (E), (F), and / or (G).
[0507] According to a first embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" corresponding to formula (C): If 5 3 n O If; OKOH 3L 1 NH (GiLL 1 m (C)
[0508] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.
[0509] According to a second embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of the following formula (D): (B)
[0510] in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m can designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; - Ri, R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Cr C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical.
[0511] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0512] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.
[0513] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3500 to 200,000.
[0514] According to a third embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the following silicones of formula (E): CH. । _ CH, CH. 1 “ CH„ | 1 R,---Si — -O — Si — 1 - O — Si----- —O—Si—R. | 1 (CH.). 1 CH. CH„ 1 CH. p NH i (CH,L 1 1 NK 9
[0515] in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q can designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; - Rb R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Ci-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 designating an alkoxy radical.
[0516] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0517] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.
[0518] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably from 2000 to 200000 and even more particularly from 5000 to 100000 and more particularly from 10000 to 50000.
[0519] Commercial products comprising structural silicones (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (D) or (E).
[0520] A product containing structure-amino silicones (D) is offered by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652.
[0521] A product containing structural amino silicones (E) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300® or under the name Belsil ADM Log 1.
[0522] When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use as an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature, but preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The average number size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, particularly as amino silicones of formula (E), microemulsions are used in which the average size of The particles range from 5 nm to 60 nanometers (inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nanometers (inclusive). Thus, according to the invention, the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (E) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER can be used.
[0523] According to a fourth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of the following formula (F): CH., I ---Sj — CH,. CHS I ' O—Si— i HAS I MH i I MH,
[0524] in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
[0525] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200000.
[0526] Another silicone meeting formula (B) is for example XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from DOW CORNING (INCI name amodimethicone and trideceth-6 and cetrimonium chloride).
[0527] According to a fifth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of the following formula (G):
[0528] in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
[0529] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.
[0530] A silicone meeting this formula is, for example, DOW CORNING's DC2-8566 Amino Fluid.
[0531] c) Amino silicones conforming to formula (H): —Sj—O-
[0532] in which: - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, or alkenyl in C2-Ci8, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or a salt of organic acid, in particular acetate; - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8; - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.
[0533] Such amino silicones are described in particular in US patent 4,185,087.
[0534] - d) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I): FL QH he N-CHXHCH-R» I xzv R? ii FÇ
[0535] in which: - R7, whether identical or different, represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, a radical alkenyl in C2-C[8 or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8, an -R6-NHCOR7 radical; - X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or a salt of organic acid, in particular acetate; - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.
[0536] These silicones are described for example in application EP-A-0530974.
[0537] e) Amino silicones of formula (J): h2n -(C^-NH -(¾) -Si —O
[0538] in which: - Rb R2, R3 and R4, whether identical or different, designate a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R5 designates a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g.
[0539] f) multiblock polyoxyalkylened amine silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylened block comprising at least one amine group.
[0540] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas:
[0541] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -R'-N(H)-R-]
[0542] or
[0543] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R' - O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -]
[0544] in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, more particularly from 10 to 100; - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more specifically from 10 to 5000; - R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl atom; - R, identical or different, represent a linear or branched C2-C12 hydrocarbon divalent radical, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R designates an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R designates a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; - R', identical or different, represent a C2-C12 divalent hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' designates an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R' designates -CH(CH3)-CH2-.
[0545] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85% by moles.
[0546] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
[0547] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000, more particularly between 10000 and 200000.
[0548] We can cite in particular the silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.
[0549] g) and their mixtures.
[0550] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from among the amino silicones meeting the formula (E).
[0551] Preferably, the colouring composition comprises at least one amino silicone with INCI name amodimethicone, preferably introduced in the form of an emulsion or microemulsion with surfactants.
[0552] Preferably, the colouring composition comprises at least one amino silicone of INCI name amodimethicone in emulsion or microemulsion with surfactants of INCI name trideceth-5 and trideceth-10.
[0553] The silicone(s) may be present in a total quantity varying from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the colouring composition.
[0554] The amine silicone(s) may be present in a total quantity varying from 0.01% to 20%, preferably from 0.05% to 15%, more preferably from 0.1% to 10%, more preferably still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the coloring composition. Associative polymers
[0555] The hair keratin fiber coloring composition used in the color removal process according to the invention may further comprise at least one associative polymer different from the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agents previously described.
[0556] It is recalled that "associative polymers" are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
[0557] Their chemical structure includes more particularly at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
[0558] By "hydrophobic group" is meant a radical or hydrocarbon chain polymer, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0559] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group is derived from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. It may also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.
[0560] Associative polymers can be of non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature.
[0561] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from anionic associative polymers.
[0562] Among the anionic-type associative polymers, the following may be mentioned:
[0563] - (a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic motif, and at least one ether motif of fatty chain allyl, more particularly those whose hydrophilic motif is made up of an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, more particularly still of a vinylic carboxylic acid and especially of an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.
[0564] Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5 to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, 2 to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether, and 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.
[0565] Among these, crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 OE) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10) are particularly preferred, especially those sold by the company CIBA under the names SALCARE SC80® and SALCARE SC90® which are aqueous emulsions at 30% of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).
[0566] - (b) those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic motif of the carboxylic acid type unsaturated olefinic, and ii) at least one hydrophobic motif of the alkyl (C10-C30) ester type of unsaturated carboxylic acid.
[0567] Alkyl esters (C10-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids useful to the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.
[0568] Anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to US patents 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.
[0569] Among this type of anionic associative polymers, we will use more particularly those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic motif), 4 to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic motif), and 0 to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic motif), 1 to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic motif), and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer such as those described above.
[0570] Among the aforementioned polymers, the products sold by GOODRICH under the trade names PEMULEN TRI®, PEMULEN TR2®, CARBOPOL 1382®, and even more preferably PEMULEN TRI®, and the product sold by SEPPIC under the name COATEX SX®, are particularly preferred according to the present invention.
[0571] We can also mention the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer marketed under the name Acrylidone LM by the ISP Company.
[0572] - (c) maleic anhydride / α-olefin terpolymers in C30-C38 / alkyl maleate such as the product (maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608® by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES.
[0573] - (d) acrylic terpolymers comprising:
[0574] i) about 20 to 70% by weight of an unsaturated α,[3-monoethylenic [α],
[0575] ii) about 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant α,[3-monoethylenic] unsaturation monomer other than [α],
[0576] iii) approximately 0.5 to 60% by weight of a non-ionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate,
[0577] such as those described in patent application EP-A-0173109 and more particularly that described in Example 3, namely, a methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate terpolymer of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol (40 OE) in 25% aqueous dispersion.
[0578] - (e) copolymers comprising among their monomers a carboxylic acid unsaturation α,[3-monoethylenic and an ester of carboxylic acid with unsaturation α,[3-monoethylenic and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol.
[0579] Preferably these compounds also comprise as a monomer an ester of α,[3-monoethylenic carboxylic acid and Ci-C4 alcohol.
[0580] As an example of this type of compound, we can cite ACULYN 22® sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylened stearyl methacrylate terpolymer, as well as ACULYN 88 also sold by ROHM and HAAS.
[0581] Advantageously, the associative polymer(s) other than the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agents are chosen from acrylic associative polymers, more preferably carboxylic acrylic associative polymers.
[0582] In a particularly preferred manner, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol.
[0583] Advantageously, the total quantity of the associative polymer(s) ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.
[0584] Compound having at least one carboxylic acid group
[0585] The hair keratin fiber coloring composition used in the color removal process according to the invention may further comprise at least one compound, other than associative polymers as previously described, having at least one carboxylic acid group.
[0586] Preferably, the compound, other than associative polymers, having at least one carboxylic acid group is chosen from silicone compounds comprising at least one carboxylic group, polyurethanes, acrylic polymers and their mixtures. Polyurethanes and acrylic polymers
[0587] According to a preferred embodiment, the hair keratin fiber coloring composition comprises one or more compounds, other than associative polymers, having at least one carboxylic acid group selected from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers and their mixtures.
[0588] Preferably, the compound(s), other than associative polymers, having at least one carboxylic acid group, are in the form of aqueous dispersions of polymer particles selected from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, and their mixtures.
[0589] Preferably, the hair keratin fiber coloring composition comprises one or more compounds, other than associative polymers, having at least one carboxylic acid group in the form of aqueous dispersions of polymer particles selected from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, and their mixtures.
[0590] Thus, in this embodiment, the polymer or polymers used in aqueous dispersions of polymer particle(s) are different from associative polymers.
[0591] The dispersion(s) may be simple dispersions in the aqueous medium of the cosmetic composition. Latexes are a particular example of a dispersion.
[0592] The aqueous dispersion(s) of polymer particles can be chosen from aqueous dispersions of polyurethane particles.
[0593] More particularly, the polyurethane(s) present in the aqueous dispersions used in the present invention are derived from the reaction of
[0594] - a prepolymer of the following formula (A):
[0595] (A),
[0596] in which
[0597] - Ri represents a divalent radical of a dihydroxylated compound;
[0598] - R2 represents a radical of an aliphatic or cycloaliphatic polyisocyanate;
[0599] - R3 represents a radical of a low molecular weight diol, possibly substituted by one or more ionic groups;
[0600] - n represents an integer from 1 to 5, and
[0601] - m is greater than 1;
[0602] - at least one chain extender according to the following formula (B):
[0603] H2N-R4-NH2 (B),
[0604] wherein R4 represents an alkylene radical or alkylene oxide that is not substituted by one or more ionic or potentially ionic groups; and
[0605] - at least one chain extender according to the following formula (C)
[0606] H2N-R5-NH2 (C),
[0607] wherein R5 represents an alkylene radical substituted by one or more ionic or potentially ionic groups.
[0608] Among the dihydroxylated compounds usable according to the present invention, particular examples include compounds having two hydroxyl groups and a number molecular weight of about 700 to about 16,000, and preferably of about 750 to about 5,000. By way of example of dihydroxylated compounds having a high molecular weight, examples include polyol polyesters, polyol polyethers, polyhydroxylated polycarbonates, polyhydroxylated polyacetates, polyhydroxylated polyacrylates, polyhydroxylated amide polyesters, polyhydroxylated polyalkadienes, polyhydroxylated polythioethers, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the hydroxylated compounds are selected from polyol polyesters, polyol polyethers, polyhydroxylated polycarbonates, and mixtures thereof.
[0609] The polyisocyanates usable according to the present invention are in particular chosen from among the organic diisocyanates having a molecular weight of about 112 to 1000, and preferably of about 140 to 400.
[0610] Preferably, the polyisocyanates are chosen from among the diisocyanates and more particularly from those represented by the general formula R2(NCO)2, in which R2 represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon group having from 4 to 18 carbon atoms, a divalent cycloaliphatic hydrocarbon group having from 5 to 15 carbon atoms, a divalent araliphatic hydrocarbon group having from 7 to 15 carbon atoms or a divalent aromatic hydrocarbon group having from 6 to 15 carbon atoms.
[0611] Preferably, R2 represents an organic diisocyanate. Examples of organic diisocyanates include tetramethylene diisocyanate, 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dodecamethylene diisocyanate, 1,3-diisocyanatocyclohexane, 1,4-diisocyanatocyclohexane, 3-isocyanatomethyl-3,5,5-trimethylcyclohexane isocyanate (isophorone diisocyanate or IPDI), bis-(4-isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane, 1,3-bis(isocyanatomethyl)cyclohexane, 1,4-bis(isocyanatomethyl)cyclohexane, bis-(4-isocyanato-3-methylcyclohexyl)methane, and toluene diisocyanate (TDI) isomers such as 2,4-toluene diisocyanate and 2,6-diisocyanate. toluene and mixtures thereof, hydrogenated toluene diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate and mixtures with its isomers 2,4-diphenylmethane diisocyanate and possibly 2,2'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 1,5-naphthalene diisocyanate, and mixtures thereof.
[0612] Preferably, the diisocyanates are aliphatic and cycloaliphatic diisocyanates, and are most preferably chosen from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, 3-isocyanatomethyl-3,5,5-trimethylcyclohexane isocyanate and mixtures thereof.
[0613] By "low molecular weight diol," according to the present invention, we mean a diol having a molecular weight of about 62 to 700, and preferably of 62 to 200. These diols may comprise aliphatic, alicyclic, or aromatic groups. Preferably, they comprise only aliphatic groups.
[0614] Preferably, R3 represents a low molecular weight diol, having more than 20 carbon atoms, more preferably selected from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propane 1,2-diol, propane 1,3-diol, butane 1,4-diol, butylene 1,3-glycol, neopentyl glycol, butyl-ethyl-propane diol, cyclohexane diol, 1,4-cyclohexane dimethanol, hexane 1,6-diol, bisphenol A (2,2-bis(4-hydroxyphenyl)propane), hydrogenated bisphenol A (2,2-bis(4-hydroxycyclohexyl)propane), and mixtures thereof.
[0615] Low molecular weight diols may optionally include ionic or potentially ionic groups. Examples of low molecular weight diols containing ionic or potentially ionic groups are described in particular in US patent 3,412,054. Such compounds are preferably selected from dimethylol butanoic acid, dimethylol propionic acid, polycaprolactone diols containing a carboxyl group, and mixtures thereof.
[0616] If lower molecular weight diols containing ionic or potentially ionic groups are used, they are preferably used in such an amount that less than 0.30 meq of COOH per gram of polyurethane in the polyurethane dispersion are present.
[0617] The prepolymer is elongated using two families of chain extenders. The first family of chain extenders corresponds to the compounds of general formula (B).
[0618] The chain extenders of formula (B) are preferably selected from among the alkylene diamines, such as hydrazine, ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine, piperazine; the alkylene oxide diamines, such as 3-{2-[2-(3-aminopropoxy)ethoxy]-ethoxy}propylamine (also called dipropylamine diethylene glycol or DPA-DEG available from Tomah Products, Milton, Wis.), 2-methyl-1,5-pentanediamine (Dytec A from DuPont), hexanediamine, isophoronediamine, 4,4-methylenedi-(cyclohexylamine), the DPA series ether-amines available from Tomah Products, Milton, Wis., such as the dipropylamine propylene glycol, dipropylamine dipropylene glycol, dipropylamine tripropylene glycol, dipropylamine poly(propylene glycol), dipropylamine ethylene glycol, dipropylamine poly(ethylene glycol), dipropylamine 1,3-propane diol, dipropylamine 2-methyl-1,3-propane diol, dipropylamine 1,4-butane diol, dipropylamine 1,3-butane diol, dipropylamine 1,6-hexane diol and dipropylamine cyclohexane-1,4-dimethanol; and mixtures thereof.
[0619] The second family of chain extenders corresponds to compounds of general formula (C). Such compounds preferably have one ionic or potentially ionic group and two groups capable of reacting with isocyanate groups. Such compounds may optionally comprise two groups reactive with isocyanate groups and one ionic group or group capable of forming an ionic group.
[0620] The ionic or potentially ionic group may preferably be selected from ternary or quaternary ammonium groups or groups convertible into such groups, a carboxyl group, a carboxylate group, a sulfonic acid group, and a sulfonate group. The conversion, at least partial, of the salt-converting groups of ternary or quaternary ammonium groups may take place before or during mixing with water.
[0621] The chain extenders of formula (C) are preferably chosen from among the diaminosulfonates, such as for example the sodium salt of N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (ASA), the sodium salt of N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminopropionic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0622] The polyurethane usable according to the present invention may optionally further comprise compounds that are respectively located at the ends of the chains and terminate said chains (chain terminators). Such compounds are described in particular in US patents 7,445,770 and / or US patents 7,452,770.
[0623] Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles has a viscosity of less than 2000 mPa.s at 23°C, more preferably less than 1500, and even better less than 1000. Even more preferably, the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane has a glass transition temperature of less than 0°C.
[0624] Preferably, the aqueous polyurethane dispersion has a polyurethane (or active material, or dry matter) content, based on the weight of the dispersion, of 20 to 60% by weight, more preferably 25 to 55% by weight, and even better 30 to 50% by weight. This means that the polyurethane (dry matter) content of the aqueous dispersion is preferably 20% to 60% by weight, more preferably 25% to 55% by weight, and even better 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
[0625] Also preferably, the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles has a glass transition temperature (Tg) equal to or less than -25 °C, preferably less than -35 °C, and more preferably less than -40 °C.
[0626] Polyurethane particles can have an average diameter of up to about 1000 nm, for example from about 50 nm to about 800 nm, better from about 100 nm to about 500 nm. These particle sizes can be measured with a laser particle size analyzer (for example Brookhaven BI90).
[0627] By way of non-limiting example of aqueous polyurethane dispersions, one can cite those sold under the name Baycusan® by Bayer such as, for example, Baycusan® C1000 (INCI name: polyurethane-34), Baycusan® C1001 (INCI name: polyurethane-34), Baycusan® C1003 (INCI name: polyurethane-32), Baycusan® C1004 (INCI name: polyurethane-35) and Baycusan® C1008 (INCI name: polyurethane-48).
[0628] We may also mention aqueous polyurethane dispersions of isophthalic acid / adipic acid copolymer / hexylene glycol / neopentyl glycol / dimethylol acid / isophorone diisocyanate (INCI name: Polyurethane-1, such as Luviset® PUR, BASF), polycarbonate polyurethane, polyurethane and aliphatic polyester polyurethane (such as the NEOREZ® series, DSM, such as NEOREZ® R989, NEOREZ® and R-2202).
[0629] According to a preferred embodiment, the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles can be selected from aqueous dispersions of particles of compounds having the INCI name polyurethane-35 or compounds having the INCI name polyurethane-34.
[0630] Preferably, the compound(s), other than associative polymers, having at least one carboxylic acid group, are in the form of aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer particles, more preferably in the form of aqueous dispersions of film-forming acrylic polymer particles.
[0631] For the purposes of this invention, "polymer" means a compound consisting of the repetition of one or more motifs (these motifs being derived from compounds called monomers). This motif or these motifs are repeated at least twice and preferably at least three times.
[0632] By "film-forming polymer" is meant a polymer capable of forming, either alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on keratinous materials, and preferably a cohesive film.
[0633] For the purposes of this invention, "acrylic polymer" means a polymer synthesized from at least one monomer selected from (meth)acrylic acid and / or (meth)acrylic acid ester and / or (meth)acrylic acid amide.
[0634] The motif(s) derived from the (meth)acrylic acid monomers of the polymer may (may) possibly be in the form of salt(s), in particular of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or organic base.
[0635] Esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also called (meth)acrylates) are advantageously chosen from among alkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular alkyl in C1 to C30, preferably in C1 to C20, better in C1 to Cm, aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular aryl in C6 to C10, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular hydroxyalkyl in C2 to C6.
[0636] Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates, we can mention methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, butyl (meth)acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl-2 hexyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl (meth)acrylate.
[0637] Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, we can mention hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
[0638] Among the aryl (meth)acrylates, we can mention benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
[0639] The particularly preferred (meth)acrylic acid esters are alkyl (meth)acrylates, preferably alkyl in C1 to C30, more preferably in C1 to C20, even better in C1 to C10, and even more particularly in C1 to C4.
[0640] According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be fluorinated, or even perfluorinated, that is to say that part or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.
[0641] Examples of (meth)acrylic acid amides include (meth)acrylamides, as well as N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, particularly alkyl in C2 to C12. Among the N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, examples include N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, Nt-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.
[0642] The acrylic polymer according to the invention can be a homopolymer or a copolymer, advantageously a copolymer, even better a copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and (meth)acrylic acid esters.
[0643] Preferably, the acrylic polymer(s) according to the invention comprise one or more motifs derived from the following monomers:
[0644] a) (meth)acrylic acid; and
[0645] b) alkyl (meth)acrylate in C1 to C30, more preferably in C1 to C20, even better in C1 to C10, and even more particularly in C1 to C4.
[0646] Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles does not include a surfactant.
[0647] The term “surfactant” means any agent capable of changing the surface tension between two surfaces.
[0648] Among the acrylic polymers according to the invention, we can mention the copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and methyl or ethyl (meth)acrylate, in particular the copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate such as the compound sold under the trade name LUVIMER MAE by BASF, or the Polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer compound sold under the trade name FIXATE SUPERHOLD POLYMER by LUBRIZOL, or the Acrylate Copolymer compound sold under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000VP3 by DAITO KASEI KOGYO, or the Acrylate Copolymer compound sold under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000SLPN-PE1 by DAITO KASEI KOGYO.
[0649] The acrylic polymer may optionally comprise one or more additional monomers, other than the (meth)acrylic acid monomer and / or (meth)acrylic acid ester and / or (meth)acrylic acid amide monomer.
[0650] As an additional monomer, examples include styrenic monomers, in particular styrene and alpha-methylstyrene, and preferably styrene.
[0651] In particular, the acrylic polymer may be a styrene / (meth)acrylate copolymer, and in particular a polymer selected from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrenic monomer and at least one alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer in Ci to C20, preferably in Ci to Ci0.
[0652] The alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer in C1 to C10 can be selected from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethyl hexyl acrylate.
[0653] As an acrylic polymer, we can cite the styrene / (meth)acrylate(s) copolymers marketed under the name JONCRYL 77 by BASF, under the name YODOSOL GH41F by AKZO NOBEL and under the name SYNTRAN 5760 CG by INTERPOLYMER.
[0654] Preferably, the colouring composition comprises at least an aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles.
[0655] More preferably, the coloring composition comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles comprising one or more motifs derived from the following monomers:
[0656] a) (meth)acrylic acid; and
[0657] b) alkyl (meth)acrylate in C30 Ci, more preferably in C20 Ci, even better in C10 Ci, and even more particularly in C4 Ci.
[0658] Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles has an acrylic polymer (or active material, or dry matter) content on the basis of the weight of the dispersion of 20 to 60% by weight, more preferably of 22 to 55% by weight and even better of 25 to 50% by weight.
[0659] The total quantity of the compound or compounds, other than the associative polymer or polymers, having at least one carboxylic acid group, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.
[0660] The total quantity of the aqueous dispersion(s) of polymer particle(s), other than the associative polymer(s) as previously described, chosen from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, and their mixtures, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the colouring composition.
[0661] According to a particular embodiment, the total quantity of the aqueous dispersion(s) of acrylic polymer particle(s) other than the associative polymer(s) as previously described, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the coloring composition. Organic solvents
[0662] The colouring composition used in the process according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents.
[0663] Examples of organic solvents include lower C1-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0664] Preferably, the colouring composition comprises one or more organic solvents selected from lower C1-C4 alkanols, more preferably ethanol.
[0665] Organic solvents may be present in a total amount inclusively between 0.01 and about 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the colouring composition, preferably between 0.05 and 50% by weight and more preferably inclusively between 0.1% and 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the colouring composition.
[0666] The coloring composition used in the process according to the invention is preferably aqueous. The water content can range from 20 to 99% by weight, preferably from 50 to 98% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the coloring composition. Additives
[0667] The hair keratin fiber coloring composition used in the process according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive commonly used.
[0668] Among the additives that may be contained in the colouring composition, we can mention reducing agents, softeners, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, UV filters, peptizers, solubilizers, perfumes, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, preservatives, oils, waxes and mixtures thereof.
[0669] The hair keratin fiber colouring composition may be presented in particular in the form of a suspension, dispersion, gel, emulsion, in particular oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, or multiple (W / O / W or polyol / O / W or O / O / O), in the form of a cream, mousse, stick, vesicle dispersion in particular of ionic or non-ionic lipids, bi-phase or multi-phase lotion.
[0670] A person skilled in the art will be able to choose the appropriate pharmaceutical form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of their general knowledge, taking into account on the one hand the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand the application envisaged for the composition. Optional application of a composition D
[0671] The process for removing color from hair keratin fibers, such as hair, according to the invention may further include a step of applying to the hair keratin fibers a composition D comprising at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic group, the application of said composition D taking place before the application of the composition for removing the color.
[0672] The term “carboxylic group” means a functional group COOH or COO, the counter-ion of the COO group being able to be chosen from among the alkali metals, the alkaline earth metals, the quaternary ammoniums.
[0673] The silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in composition D; they may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.
[0674] Silicones are described in detail in particular in Walter NOLL's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press.
[0675] Preferably, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group are chosen from among the organosiloxanes of the following formula (XXVII): (XXVII)
[0676] in which: - RI independently represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; a hydroxy group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; - R2 independently represents an R4-COOM group with R4 representing a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom selected from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom and mixtures thereof, and M representing a hydrogen atom; an alkali or alkaline earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R' identical or different, representing H or alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a pyrrolidone radical comprising a carboxylic group COOH or a Ra-(ORb)x-COOM group with Ra representing an alkylene group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Rb representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x being an integer from 1 to 200;and M representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal, or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R' identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R3 independently represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; a hydroxyl group; an R4-COOM group with R4 representing a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, possibly interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from sulfur, nitrogen, oxygen, and mixtures thereof, and M representing a hydrogen atom; an alkali or alkaline earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with identical or different R's, representing H or an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; or a Ra- group (ORb)x-COOM with R a representing an alkylene group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R b representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x being an integer from 1 to 200; and M representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R' identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; - p denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000; it being understood that at least one of the radicals R2 and / or R3 comprises a carboxylic group COOH or COOM with M representing an alkali or alkaline earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R' identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0677] In particular, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group may be selected from the organosiloxanes of the following formula (XXVIII): MOOC' R1 If OO M to i (XXVIII),
[0678] in which: - RI independently represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, even better from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably methyl; - R4 independently represents a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, possibly interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom and mixtures thereof; or a divalent group Ra-(ORb)x- with R a representing an alkylene group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R b representing an alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer from 1 to 200; - M independently represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R' identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
[0679] - organosiloxanes of the following formula (XXIX): (XXIX)
[0680] in which: - RI independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably a methyl; - R4 represents a linear or branched alkylene group, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, possibly interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom and mixtures thereof, or a divalent group Ra-(ORb)x- with R a representing an alkylene group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R b representing an alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer from 1 to 200; - M represents a hydrogen atom; an alkali or alkaline earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R' identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
[0681] - organosiloxanes of the following formula (XXX): i RI O g] __ R4 COOM | RI —n (XXX)
[0682] in which: - RI independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, even better from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably methyl; - R4 represents a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, possibly interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom and mixtures thereof; or a divalent group Ra-(ORb)x- with R a representing an alkylene group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R b representing an alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer from 1 to 200; - R3 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; - M independently represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R' identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
[0683] - organosiloxanes of the following formula (XXXI): (XXXI)
[0684] in which: - R8 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl; - m denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000.
[0685] -and their mixtures.
[0686] Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXVIII), we can cite the polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) with terminal carboxy function such as the compounds sold by the company Momentive under the trade name SILFORM INX (INCI name: Bis-Carboxydecyl dimethicone).
[0687] Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXIX), we can cite the polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) with pendant carboxy function such as the compounds sold by the company Shin Etsu under the trade name X-22-3701E.
[0688] Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXX), we can cite the polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) with terminal carboxy function such as the compounds sold by the company Shin Etsu under the trade name X-22-3710.
[0689] Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXXI), we can cite the compounds sold by the company Grant Industries under the trade name Grandsil SiW-PCA-10 (INCI name: Dimethicone (and) PCA Dimethicone (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Decyl Glucoside).
[0690] Silicone compounds comprising a carboxylic group may, for example, correspond to the compounds described in patent application EPI86507 in the name of Chisso Corporation introduced herein by reference.
[0691] Preferably, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group are chosen from organopolysiloxanes of formula (XXVIII), organopolysiloxanes of formula (XXIX) and mixtures thereof.
[0692] More preferably, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group are chosen from among the organopolysiloxanes of the following formula (XXIXa): (XXIXa)
[0693] in which: - R4 represents a linear or branched alkylene group, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, possibly interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom and their mixtures, or even from 8 to 12 carbon atoms; - p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000.
[0694] The total quantity of the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group, present in composition D, preferably ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and even better from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition D. Oils
[0695] Composition D may comprise one or more oil(s).
[0696] Preferably, composition D comprises one or more oil(s). More preferably, composition D comprises one or more oil(s) selected from among the alkanes.
[0697] By "oil" is meant a liquid fat at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 105 Pa).
[0698] The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0699] The term "volatile oil" means an oil that evaporates upon contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a cosmetic oil that is volatile and liquid at room temperature. More precisely, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate between 0.01 and 200 mg / cm² / min, inclusive (see the protocol for measuring the evaporation rate indicated in the text below).
[0700] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More precisely, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm² / min (see protocol for measuring the evaporation rate indicated in the text below).
[0701] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more oil(s) selected from C6-Ci6 alkanes and / or mixtures thereof.
[0702] As regards C6-Ci6 alkanes, the latter can be linear, branched, possibly cyclic.
[0703] We can cite in particular C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as C8-Ci6 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permetyls, and their mixtures.
[0704] One can also mention linear alkanes, preferably of plant origin, comprising 7 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms.
[0705] By way of example of a linear alkane suitable for the invention, one may cite n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) described in Example 1 of application WO2008 / 155059 of Société Cognis.
[0706] We can also mention n-dodecane (Cl2) and n-tetradecane (Cl4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures.
[0707] By way of example of alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in patent applications WO 2007 / 068371 and WO2008 / 155059. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil.
[0708] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises isododecane. Such a compound is, for example, isododecane sold under the reference ISODODECANE by INEOS.
[0709] Preferably, composition D comprises one or more oil(s) selected from C8-Ci6 alkanes, more preferably from isododecane, isohexadecane, tetradecane and / or mixtures thereof.
[0710] More preferably, composition D comprises isododecane.
[0711] Composition D may comprise one or more oils present in a total quantity of between 30% and 99% by weight, preferably between 50% and 99% by weight, better between 70% and 99% by weight relative to the total weight of composition D.
[0712] Composition D may include at least one colouring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof as described above. Composition for removing color
[0713] As previously stated, the process for removing color from hair keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprises applying at least one color-removing composition to said hair keratin fibers having been previously colored using at least one hair keratin fiber coloring composition as defined above, said color-removing composition comprising at least one glycol ether and optionally at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate. glycol ether
[0714] The term "glycol ether" means one or more glycol ethers comprising a hydroxy group or no hydroxy group.
[0715] Preferably, the glycol ether is chosen from those of formula Rn(-O-CH(CH3)-CH2)nOH, in which Ru designates an alkyl radical in Ci-C30, preferably in Cr C6, more preferably in Ci-C4, and in which n is from 1 to 50, preferably from 2 to 50, preferably again from 2 to 10, preferably 2 to 5.
[0716] Advantageously, the glycol ether has the formula CH3(-O-CH(CH3)-CH2)nOH, in which n is from 2 to 50, preferably from 2 to 10, more preferably from 2 to 5.
[0717] In a particularly preferred manner, the glycol ether is selected from tripropylene glycol methyl ether, tripropylene glycol ethyl ether, tripropylene glycol propyl ether, tripropylene glycol butyl ether and mixtures thereof, preferably tripropylene glycol methyl ether.
[0718] The total glycol ether(s) content is preferably at least 5% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing color.
[0719] The total glycol ether(s) content may vary from 5 to 100% by weight, preferably from 10 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing color. Alkyl or alkylene carbonate
[0720] The color removal composition used in the process according to the invention may include at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate.
[0721] Alkyl carbonate means an alkyl or dialkyl carbonate.
[0722] Preferably, the alkyl or alkylene carbonate is an alkyl carbonate in Cr C30, preferably in Ci-C6, or an alkylene in Ci-C30, preferably in Ci-C6, more preferably the alkyl or alkylene carbonate is chosen from alkylene carbonates, better from propylene carbonate, butylene carbonate, pentylene carbonate and mixtures thereof.
[0723] In a particularly preferred manner, alkyl or alkylene carbonate is chosen from propylene carbonate.
[0724] Advantageously, the total alkyl carbonate or alkylene content ranges from 10 to 60% by weight, preferably from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for color removal. Polyol
[0725] The color removal composition used in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one polyol other than the glycol ethers previously described.
[0726] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) on different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
[0727] More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, more preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, more preferably still from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups.
[0728] The color removal composition may include one or more polyols selected from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof.
[0729] In a particularly preferred manner, the polyol is chosen from dipropylene glycol.
[0730] Advantageously, the polyol content, when present, ranges from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing color. Alkaline agent
[0731] The color removal composition used in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one alkaline agent.
[0732] Preferably, the alkali agent(s) may be chosen from organic alkali agents and inorganic alkali agents, more preferably organic alkali agents.
[0733] Preferably, the organic alkali metal(s) are chosen from among the organic amines whose pKb at 25 °C is less than 12, and more preferably less than 10, and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity functional group. Furthermore, the organic amines do not include a fatty, alkyl, or alkenyl chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.
[0734] The organic alkali agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, in particular mono-, di- or tri-hydroxy(Ci-C6)alkylamines such as 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, monoethanolamine, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids, polyamines of the following formula (I); and mixtures thereof: (I) NWN
[0735] formula (I), wherein, W is a divalent alkylene radical in C6 Ci optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups or a alkyl radical in C6 Ci, and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O, or NRU; Rx, Ry, Rz, Rt, and Ru, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a alkyl radical in C6 Ci or a hydroxyalkyl radical in C6 Ci, or an aminoalkyl radical in C6 Ci.
[0736] Examples of amines of formula (I) include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, spermidine.
[0737] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched alkyl groups, in C1 to C8 bearing one or more hydroxy radicals.
[0738] Organic amines selected from among alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1 to C4, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.
[0739] Among compounds of this type, one may mention monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanol-amine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane.
[0740] More specifically, the usable amino acids are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D, or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from among carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic, or phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.
[0741] As examples of amino acids that can be used in the present invention, we may mention in particular aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
[0742] Advantageously, amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function possibly included in a ring or in a ureido function.
[0743] Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (II), as well as their salts: R-CH2-CH(NH2)-C(O)-OH (II), formula (II), in which R represents a group selected from imidazolyl, preferably imidazolyl-4-yl; aminopropyl; aminoethyl; -(CH2)2N(H)-C(O)-NH2; and -(CH2)2-N(H)-C(NH)-NH2.
[0744] The organic amine can also be chosen from among heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, in addition to histidine already mentioned among the amino acids, pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole can be cited.
[0745] The organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. Examples of amino acid dipeptides usable in the present invention include camosine, anserine, and balenine.
[0746] The organic amine can also be chosen from compounds containing a guanidine function. As examples of amines of this type usable in the present invention, in particular, in addition to arginine already mentioned as an amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid, 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)-ethane-l-sulfonic acid and guanidine carbonate.
[0747] Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) are chosen from among the alkanolamines, more preferably from among monoethanolamine.
[0748] Advantageously, when present, the content of the alkali agent(s) ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing color. Water-soluble organic solvents
[0749] The color removal composition used in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one water-soluble organic solvent selected from monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol and butanol.
[0750] The composition for removing the color used in the process according to the invention may include water.
[0751] According to another particular embodiment, the composition for removing the color does not include water.
[0752] Furthermore, the additives as mentioned above may be included in the composition to remove the color used in the process according to the invention. Protocol
[0753] The hair keratin fiber coloring composition and the possible composition D described above can be implemented on dry or wet hair keratin fibers, as well as on all types of hair keratin fibers, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.
[0754] According to a preferred embodiment, the coloring composition and composition D are applied simultaneously to the hair keratin fibers.
[0755] According to another preferred embodiment, composition D is applied to the hair keratin fibers after the application of the coloring composition to the hair keratin fibers.
[0756] According to another preferred embodiment, composition D is applied to the hair keratin fibers before the application of the hair keratin fiber coloring composition.
[0757] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hair keratin fibers, such as hair, are washed before application of the hair keratin fiber coloring composition and of the optional composition D.
[0758] Preferably, a washing, rinsing, wringing or drying step is carried out after the application of the coloring composition to the hair keratin fibers and before the application of composition D to the hair keratin fibers.
[0759] More preferably, a drying step is implemented after the application of the coloring composition to the hair keratin fibers and before the application of composition D to the hair keratin fibers.
[0760] Application to the hair keratin fibers can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a sponge or the fingers.
[0761] The application of the hair keratin fiber coloring composition and of the possible composition D on the hair keratin fibers is generally carried out at room temperature (between 15 and 25 °C).
[0762] After application of the colouring composition to the hair keratin fibres, it is possible to wait between 1 minute and 6 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 2 hours, more particularly between 1 minute and 1 hour, more preferably between 1 minute and 30 minutes, before for example the application of composition D to the hair keratin fibres or for example a washing, rinsing, wringing or drying step.
[0763] Preferably, there is no waiting time after the application of the coloring composition to the hair keratin fibers and before the application of composition D to the hair keratin fibers.
[0764] After the application of the coloring composition and the optional composition D, the fibres can be left to dry or dried, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30 °C.
[0765] The process according to the invention can thus include a step of applying heat to the capillary keratin fibers using a heating tool.
[0766] The heat application step of the process of the invention can be carried out using a helmet, a hair dryer, a straightening or curling iron, a climazon,
[0767] Preferably, the heat application step of the process of the invention is carried out using a hair dryer.
[0768] When the process of the invention implements a step of applying heat to the capillary keratin fibers, the step of applying heat to the capillary keratin fibers takes place after the application of the coloring composition to the capillary keratin fibers and of the optional composition D to the capillary keratin fibers.
[0769] During the heat application step on the hair keratin fibers, a mechanical action on the strands can be exerted such as combing, brushing, passing with fingers.
[0770] When the step of applying heat to the keratin hair fibers is carried out using a helmet or a hair dryer, the temperature is preferably between 30 and 110°C, preferably between 50 and 90°C.
[0771] When the step of applying heat to the capillary keratin fibers is carried out using a straightening iron, the temperature is preferably between 110 and 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.
[0772] In a particular embodiment, the process of the invention implements a step (bl) of applying heat using a helmet, a hair dryer or a climazon, preferably a hair dryer and a step (b2) of applying heat using a straightening or curling iron, preferably a straightening iron.
[0773] Step (bl) can be performed before step (b2).
[0774] During step (bl), also called the drying step, the capillary keratin fibers can be dried, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30 °C. In one particular embodiment, this temperature is above 40°C. In another particular embodiment, this temperature is above 45°C and below 110°C.
[0775] Preferably, if the capillary keratin fibers are dried, they are dried not only with heat but also with an airflow. This airflow during drying improves the individualization of the sheathing.
[0776] During drying, mechanical action on the strands can be exerted such as combing, brushing, passing with fingers.
[0777] During step (b2), the passage of the straightening or curling iron, preferably the straightening iron, may be carried out at a temperature ranging from 110 to 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.
[0778] After the heating step, a shaping step can be implemented with, for example, a straightening iron; the temperature for the shaping step is between 110 and 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.
[0779] Preferably, the invention is a method for removing color from previously colored keratin hair fibers, comprising in particular: i) applying the keratin hair fibers the hair fiber coloring composition as described above, then (ii) optionally, a processing time of said coloring composition on the fibers of 1 to 30 minutes, preferably 1 to 20 minutes; then iii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibres, then (iv) the application to the capillary keratin fibers of a composition D comprising at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic group as described above; then (v) optionally, an application time of said composition D on the capillary keratin fibers of 1 to 30 minutes, preferably 1 to 20 minutes; then vi) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, wringing or drying the hair keratin fibers.
[0780] Preferably, the step of applying the coloring composition to the capillary keratin fibers is repeated several times.
[0781] According to a preferred embodiment, the color removal process is a process for removing color from hair keratin fibers comprising, in particular, a step of extemporaneously mixing at the time of use at least two compositions A and B to obtain the hair keratin fiber coloring composition as defined above and applying the coloring composition to the hair keratin fibers, with: - composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as described above; - composition B comprising at least one compound, different from the associative polymers as described above, having at least one carboxylic acid group as described above,
[0782] composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one colouring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof;
[0783] composition A and / or composition B optionally comprising at least one silicone as defined above.
[0784] Preferably, compositions A and B are mixed preferably less than 15 minutes before application to the capillary keratin fibers, more preferably less than 10 minutes before application, better less than 5 minutes before application.
[0785] The weight ratio between composition A and composition B is preferably from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.2 to 5, better from 0.5 to 2, or even from 0.6 to 1.5. In a particular embodiment, the weight ratio between composition A and composition B is equal to 1.
[0786] According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention is a process for removing color from keratin hair fibers comprising, in particular, a step of extemporaneously mixing at the time of use at least two compositions A and B to obtain the coloring composition for keratin hair fibers as defined above and applying the coloring composition to keratin hair fibers, with:
[0787] - composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound such that described previously; - composition B comprising at least one compound, different from the associative polymers as described above, having at least one carboxylic acid group as described above,
[0788] composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one colouring agent selected from pigments, direct colorants, and mixtures thereof;
[0789] composition A and / or composition B optionally comprising at least one silicone as defined above, and a composition D as described above being applied to the capillary keratin fibers before and / or after, preferably after, the application of the mixture of compositions A and B to the capillary keratin fibers.
[0790] Then, as previously stated, the process for removing color from hair keratin fibers according to the invention comprises applying at least one color removal composition as defined above, to hair keratin fibers that have been previously colored using at least one hair keratin fiber coloring composition as defined above.
[0791] Preferably, the colour removal composition is then rinsed after a possible waiting period, possibly followed by shampooing.
[0792] Preferably, the colour removal composition is left on for 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 1 to 30 minutes, more preferably 1 to 15 minutes, better still 2 to 10 minutes, before being rinsed.
[0793] According to a particular embodiment, the process according to the invention further comprises a step of kneading the capillary keratin fibers, after the application of the composition to remove the color.
[0794] During this kneading step, a special tool such as an exfoliating glove may be used.
[0795] Preferably, during a kneading step, 5 finger strokes are made along the strand. The duration of all 5 strokes can vary from 30 seconds to 2 minutes, for example, for 1g of strand.
[0796] The step of kneading the capillary keratin fibers can be repeated several times, for example 2 times, possibly with an intermediate rest time.
[0797] The step of applying the composition to remove the color can be repeated several times, possibly with an intermediate rinse.
[0798] The time between the application of the hair keratin fiber coloring composition and the application of the color removal composition can vary from a few minutes to several days, for example, several tens of days. Preferably, the time between the application of the hair keratin fiber coloring composition and the application of the color removal composition varies from 1 hour to 30 days, more preferably from 1 day to 15 days.
[0799] The optional kneading step can then be followed by a washing step of the hair keratin fibers, for example with shampoo. The hair keratin fibers can then be kneaded, rinsed, and dried. Composition for removing color
[0800] The invention also relates to a composition for removing color from hair keratin fibers that have been previously colored with a hair keratin fiber coloring composition comprising at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, the color removal composition comprising:
[0801] - at least 5% by weight of at least one glycol ether relative to the total weight of the composition for removing color;
[0802] - at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate;
[0803] - optionally at least one polyol other than glycol ethers.
[0804] Preferably, the hair keratin fiber coloring composition is the hair keratin fiber coloring composition used in the process according to the invention.
[0805] Preferably, the glycol ether, alkyl or alkylene carbonate and optional polyol are as defined above, respectively.
[0806] Advantageously, the total glycol ether content ranges from 5 to 60% by weight, preferably from 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing color.
[0807] Advantageously, the total alkyl carbonate or alkylene content ranges from 10 to 60% by weight, preferably from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for color removal.
[0808] Advantageously, the polyol content, when present, ranges from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing color.
[0809] Preferably, the ingredients that can be included in the composition for removing the color as used in the process according to the invention, as described above, can be included in the composition for removing the color according to the invention. Use
[0810] The invention also relates to the use of the composition for removing color according to the invention or as used in the process according to the invention, from hair keratin fibers, such as hair, having been previously colored with a hair keratin fiber coloring composition comprising at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof.
[0811] Preferably, the coloring composition comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined above.
[0812] Preferably, the hair keratin fiber coloring composition is as defined above.
[0813] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples allow for the support of specific features, variants, and preferred embodiments of the invention. Examples
[0814] The (poly)carbodihnide(s) of the invention are accessible by synthetic methods known to those skilled in the art, from commercial products or from reagents synthesizable according to chemical reactions also known to those skilled in the art. For example, see Sciences of Synthesis - Houben - Weyl Methods of Molecular Transformations, 2005, Georg Thiem Verlag Kg, Rudigerstrasse 14, D-70469 Stuttgart, or US patent US 4,284,730 or Canadian application CA 2 509 861.
[0815] More particularly, the process for preparing the (poly)carbodiimides of the invention uses in a first step a diisocyanate reagent (1): O=C=N-LrN=C=O (1), formula (1) in which Li is as defined previously which reacts in the presence of a carboimidation catalyst (2) such as those described in US 4,284,730 in particular phosphorus catalysts particularly chosen from among phospholene oxides and phospholene sulfoxides, diaza and oxazaphospholanes, preferably under an inert atmosphere (nitrogen or Argon), and in particular in a polar solvent preferably aprotic such as THF, glyme, diglyme, 1,4-dioxane, and DMF, at a temperature between ambient temperature and solvent reflux, preferably around 140 °C; to lead to the compound carbodihnide diisocyanate (3): O=C=N-L1-(N=C=N-L1)nN=C=O (3), formula (3) in which Li and n are as defined previously.Benzoyl halogens such as benzoyl chloride can be added to deactivate the catalyst.
[0816] To obtain "symmetrical" (poly)carbodiimides, in the second step of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH, then with 0.5 eq of HEH reagent with Rb Xi and E as defined above, to give the "symmetrical" compound according to the invention (4): [R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)]2-E (4), formula (4) in which Rh Xb Lb n, and E are as defined above. According to an embodiment for obtaining compound (4) from (3), it is possible to first add 0.5 eq of HEH reagent, then 1 eq of Ri-XrH reagent.
[0817] To obtain "asymmetric" (poly)carbodiimides, in the second step of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent RrXi-H and then 1 eq. of HEH reagent with Rb Xi and E as defined above, to give the compound (5): R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-EH (5), formula (5) in which Rh Xb Lb n, and E are as defined above.
[0818] According to one variant for obtaining compound (5) from (3) it is possible to add first 1 eq. of reagent Ri-XrH, then 0.5 eq. of reagent HEH.
[0819] In a third step, compound (5) reacts with 1 eq. of compound (6) R2-X2-C(O)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)zN=C=O (6), said compound (6) is prepared beforehand from compound (3'): O=C=N-L1-(N=C=N-L1)ZN=C=O (3'),
[0820] formula (3') in which Li and z are as defined previously which reacts with 1 eq of nucleophilic reagent R2-X2-H with Lb R2, X2, and z as defined previously, to give rise to the asymmetric compound (7): RrX1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z-NH-C(O)-X2-R2 (7),
[0821] Formula (7) in which Rb Xb Lb R2, X2, n, z and E are as defined previously.
[0822] It is also possible to react 1 molar equivalent of compound O=C=N-Li-(N=C=N-Li)zN=C=O (3') with 1 / w molar equivalent of HEH, then 1 eq. of nucleophilic reagent R2-X2-H to give the compound (8): H-[EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z]w-NH-C(O)-X2-R2(8),
[0823] formula (8) in which Lb R2, X2, z and E are as defined previously, and w is an integer from 1 to 3, more preferably w = 1.
[0824] This latter compound (8) can then react with 1 eq of compound (4'): Ri-Xi-C(O)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)nN=C=O (4'), (said compound (4') being able to be synthesized by reaction of 0.5 eq. of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH with 1 equivalent of compound (3)), to give rise to the (poly)carbodihnide of the invention (9): Ri-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-[EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z]w-NH C(O)-X2-R2 (9), formula (9) in which Lb Rb Xb R2, X2, n, z, w, and E are as defined above.
[0825] (Poly)carbodiimide compounds, as well as all reaction intermediates and reactants, can be purified with conventional methods known to those skilled in the art, such as extraction with water and water-immiscible organic solvent, precipitation, centrifugation, filtration, and / or chromatography.
[0826] Example 1: Process for the synthesis of the (poly)carbodiimide compound
[0827] In a 500 mL three-necked flask equipped with a thermometer, a stirrer and a reflux tube, 50 g of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate and 0.5 g of 4,5-dihydro-3-methyl-l-phenyl-lH-phosphole 1-oxide were introduced under stirring.
[0828] The reaction medium was heated to 140°C under nitrogen for 4 hours, following the reaction by infrared spectroscopy through the absorption of isocyanate functions between 2200 and 2300 cm1, then cooled to 120°C.
[0829] A mixture of 5.3 g of polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether and 1.2 g of 1,4-butanediol is introduced into the reaction medium while stirring. The temperature of 120°C is maintained until the complete disappearance of the isocyanate groups, monitored by infrared spectroscopy at 2200-2300 cm1, and then cooled to room temperature.
[0830] After cooling to room temperature, the reaction mixture is poured dropwise under vigorous stirring into a 500 mL glass beaker containing 85 g of distilled water to produce the desired product in the form of a translucent yellow liquid. Example 2:
[0831] The compositions Al, A2, B1 and B2 as described below were prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of raw material as is / 100g.
[0832] [Tables 1] Composition Al A2 Polycarbonate 1 24 24 Red iron oxide (CI 77491) 12 - Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer(2) - 1 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-5 (and) Trideceth-10(3) - 5 Preservative(s) qs Water qsp 100 qsp 100
[0833] (1) synthesized according to the synthesis process described in Example 1 (at 40% of material active in water)
[0834] (2) sold by the company SEPPIC under the name SEPINOV EMT10,
[0835] (3) sold by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL ADM LOG 1 (to 15% active ingredient).
[0836] [Tables2] Compositions B1 B2 Acrylates copolymer (4) 40 40 Acrylates / Steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer (5) - 2 Red iron oxide (CI 77491) - 12 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-5 (and) Trideceth-10 (3) 10 5 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0837] (4) sold by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000SLPN-PE1 (aqueous dispersion with 30% active ingredient)
[0838] (5) sold by the company ROHM and HAAS under the trade name ACULYN 22® (methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer) (30% active material).
[0839] Two mixtures are then made.
[0840] Composition Al is mixed with composition B1 at a mass ratio of 50 / 50 to obtain composition Cl.
[0841] Composition A2 is mixed with composition B2 at a mass ratio of 50 / 50 to obtain composition C2.
[0842] Thus, compositions Cl and C2 are colouring compositions according to the invention.
[0843] Then, composition D as described below was prepared: quantities are expressed in g of raw material as is / 100g.
[0844] [Tables3] Compositions D Organopolysiloxane with carboxylic group(7) 2 Isododecane qsp 100
[0845] (7) sold by SHIN ETSU under the trade name X-22-3701E Compositions for removing color
[0846] In parallel, several compositions for removing the color according to the invention are prepared and are described in the following table: the quantities are expressed in g of raw material as is / 100g.
[0847] [Tables4] Composition: El E2 propylene carbonate 40 40 tripropylene glycol methyl ether 40 40 dipropylene glycol 20 19.3 monoethanolamine - 0.7 Hair highlight coloring protocol:
[0848] Each of the compositions Cl and C2 is applied to strands of dry natural hair that is 90% white, at a rate of 0.5g of composition per gram of strand.
[0849] The hair strands are then dried with a hairdryer and combed.
[0850] Then, composition D is applied to said dry hair strands treated with compositions Cl and C2, at a rate of 0.5g of composition per gram of strand.
[0851] The hair strands thus coloured are left at room temperature for 24 hours, then undergo colour removal.
[0852] Hair strands colored with composition Cl are treated with composition El. Hair strands colored with composition C2 are treated with composition E2.
[0853] Protocol for removing color from previously colored hair strands
[0854] Each of compositions E1 and E2 is applied to a strand of colored hair at a rate of 1g of composition per gram of strand. The hair strands are first massaged (5 passes of the fingers along the strand). Then, after a processing time of 10 minutes at room temperature, the hair strands are massaged again (5 passes of the fingers along the strand), and then the hair strands are rinsed.
[0855] The strands are then washed using a standard shampoo (Garnier Ultra Doux).
[0856] The strands are then kneaded, rinsed, and then dried using a hairdryer.
[0857] The color removal is then evaluated on a scale of 1 to 5. The score of 1 A score of 5 indicates excellent color removal. A score of 5 indicates poor color removal. The results are described in the table below:
[0858] [Tables5] Compositions El E2 color removal 2 1
[0859] It is noted that the compositions El and E2 according to the invention have excellent color removal power.
[0860] Thus, the process according to the invention makes it possible to obtain an effective removal of the color of a strand of hair which has been previously colored using a hair coloring composition comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound and a coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures. Example 3:
[0861] The hair coloring compositions Al, B1 and D as described above in Example 2 are used in Example 3. Thus, the hair coloring composition Cl described above in Example 2 is used in Example 3. Compositions for removing color
[0862] In parallel, several compositions for removing the color according to the invention are prepared and are described in the following table: the quantities are expressed in g of raw material as is / 100g.
[0863] [Tableauxô] Compositions for removing color E3 E4 E5 E6 E7 propylene carbonate - 15 15 15 15 tripropylene glycol methyl ether 100 40 20 40 40 isopropyl alcohol - 45 65 20 40 dipropylene glycol - - - - 5 Water - - - 25 - Hair highlight coloring protocol:
[0864] Composition Cl is applied to strands of dry natural hair that is 90% white, at a rate of 0.5g of composition per gram of strand.
[0865] The hair strands are then dried with a hairdryer and combed.
[0866] Then, after combing, composition D is applied to said dry hair strands treated with composition Cl, at a rate of 0.5g of composition per gram of strand.
[0867] The hair strands thus colored then undergo a treatment to remove the color. Hair strands colored with composition Cl are treated with compositions E3 to E7.
[0868] Protocol for removing hair color
[0869] Each of the compositions E3 to E7 is applied to a strand of colored hair at a rate of 1g of composition per gram of strand. The strands of hair are first massaged (5 strokes of the fingers along the strand). Then, after a processing time of 10 minutes at room temperature, the strands of hair are massaged again (5 strokes of the fingers along the strand), and then the strands of hair are rinsed.
[0870] The strands are then washed using a standard shampoo (Garnier Ultra Doux).
[0871] The strands are then kneaded, rinsed, and then dried using a hairdryer.
[0872] The color removal is then evaluated on a scale of 1 to 5. The score of A score of 1 indicates excellent color removal power (also referred to as color stripping power). A score of 5 indicates poor color removal power. The results are described in the table below:
[0873] [Tables7] Compositions E3 E4 E5 E6 E7 color removal 1 2 2 2 2
[0874] It is observed that the compositions E3 to E7 according to the invention have excellent color removal power on fibers.
[0875] Thus, the hair keratin fiber color removal process according to the invention makes it possible to obtain an effective removal of the color from a strand of hair which has been previously colored using a hair keratin fiber coloring composition comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound and a coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures.
Claims
1.
2. Claims A method for removing color from previously colored keratin hair fibers, comprising applying at least one composition for removing color from the previously colored keratin hair fibers using at least one composition for coloring keratin hair fibers comprising: - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound; and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures; said composition for removing color comprising: - at least one glycol ether in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color; and - optionally at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of the following formula (I): OQ A r - 1 TM—A—''X? R? H l J n H (I) in which: - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group; - R 1 and R 2 independently represent a group chosen from a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), a group chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane, and a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s) and by one or more groups chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide groups such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; and - A is a monomer chosen from the compounds below:
3. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) below:
4. (II), in which - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group; - R1 and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3; - Li independently represents a divalent C1-C18 aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof; - E independently represents a group chosen from: - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-, in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a divalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s). Process according to claim 3, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - X1 and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2 are independently selected from dialkylaminoalcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1; - L1 is selected from a divalent C1-C18 aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof; - E independently represents a group selected from: - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;- when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.;
5. Process according to any one of claims 3 or 4, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - X1 and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2 are independently monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1; - Li is a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical; - E independently represents a group chosen from: - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5- ; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
6. Process according to any one of claims 3 to 5, characterized in that the (poly)carbodihnide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - X1 and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2 independently represent the compound of formula (VI) below: R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI), in which R[3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 2 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;- Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, and - E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.;
7. Process according to any one of claims 3 to 6, characterized in that the (poly)carbodihnide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
8. - R1 and R2, independently represent the compound of formula (VI) following: R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI), in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, and w is equal to 1; - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and - E represents a group - -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s). Process according to any one of claims 3 to 7, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (XII) below: (XII), in which Li is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents a group - -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) ranges from 0.01 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition for coloring hair keratin fibers.
10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of coloring agent(s) ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for coloring hair keratin fibers, preferably the coloring agent(s) are chosen from pigments.
11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pigment content ranges from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for coloring hair keratin fibers.
12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a step of applying to the hair keratin fibers a composition D comprising at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic group, the application of said composition D taking place before the application of the composition for removing the color.
13. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the total quantity of the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group present in composition D ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition D.
14. Method according to claim 12 or 13, characterized in that composition D further comprises one or more oil(s), preferably chosen from C8-C16 alkanes, more preferably from isododecane, isohexadecane, tetradecane and / or their mixtures.
15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glycol ether is of formula CH3(-O-CH(CH3)-CH2)nOH, in which n is from 2 to 50, preferably from 2 to 10, more preferably from 2 to 5, preferably chosen from tripropylene glycol methyl ether.
16. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of glycol ether(s) is at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color.
17. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkyl or alkylene carbonate is a C1-C30, preferably C1-C6, alkyl carbonate or C1-C30, preferably C1-C6, alkylene carbonate, more preferably the alkyl or alkylene carbonate is chosen from alkylene carbonates, better still from propylene carbonate, butylene carbonate, pentylene carbonate and mixtures thereof.
18. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of alkyl or alkylene carbonate ranges from 10 to 60% by weight, preferably from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color.
19. Composition for removing color from hair keratin fibers that have been previously colored with a coloring composition comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, said color removing composition comprising: - at least 5% by weight of at least one glycol ether, as defined in any one of claims 1 and 15, relative to the total weight of the color removing composition; - at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate as defined in any one of claims 1 and 17; - optionally at least one polyol other than glycol ethers.
20. Use of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 18 or according to claim 19, for removing
21. the color of hair keratin fibers, in particular hair, having been previously colored with a coloring composition comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures. Use according to claim 20, wherein the coloring composition comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9.