solid composition for the treatment of keratinous fibers
A solid composition for treating keratinous fibers, featuring a specific blend of waxes and silicone oil in a fatty phase with dispersed aqueous phases, addresses the issue of greasiness and enhances cosmetic effects like finger passage and detangling.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022001026
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-02-07
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-23
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-02-07
AI Technical Summary
Existing solid compositions for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair, fail to adequately reduce their original greasiness to a cosmetically acceptable level, resulting in insufficient cosmetic effects like finger passage, detangling, and softness.
A solid composition comprising a fatty phase with at least one natural origin wax, one synthetic origin wax, and a silicone oil with a viscosity greater than 10 mm2/s, combined with a plurality of aqueous phases containing a polyol and water, where the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase.
The composition effectively reduces the original greasiness to a cosmetically acceptable level, providing enhanced cosmetic effects such as improved finger passage, detangling, and softness of keratinous fibers.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: solid composition for the treatment of keratinous fibers Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for the treatment of keratinous fibers such as hair as well as a method relating to the composition.
[0002] context of art
[0003] In the field of cosmetic hair treatments, transforming the texture of a cosmetic composition during its application to the hair is preferable because it can provide a more pleasant sensation during use.
[0004] An example of such a cosmetic composition that could achieve the texture transformation during its application may be based on a solid fatty substance such as a solid oil that can melt during application. However, it is often difficult to reduce the greasiness, which the solid fatty substance originally possesses, to an acceptable level during application.
[0005] Another example for achieving texture transformation can be based on a so-called solid emulsion comprising aqueous phases dispersed in a solid fatty substance as a continuous fatty phase. However, it is difficult to prepare such a solid emulsion without careful consideration.
[0006] Document WO 2021 / 120 084 discloses a solid composition in the form of a W / O emulsion for makeup and / or skin care. The solid composition disclosed in document WO 2021 / 120 084 is applied to the skin. disclosure of the invention
[0007] It has been found that when the solid composition disclosed in WO 2021 / 120 084 is applied to keratinous fibers such as hair, and not to the skin, the reduction in the original oiliness of the solid composition is insufficient, and the cosmetic effects provided to the keratinous fibers are also insufficient.
[0008] An objective of the present invention is to provide a solid composition which can reduce the original greasiness of the solid composition to at least a cosmetically acceptable level when applied to keratinous fibers, while providing the keratinous fibers with advantageous cosmetic effects such as sufficient finger passage, detangling / combing and softness of the keratinous fibers.
[0009] The above objective can be achieved by a solid composition, preferably a solid cosmetic composition, for keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:
[0010] (a) a fatty phase comprising
[0011] (ai) at least one first wax,
[0012] (a-ii) at least one second wax, and
[0013] (a-iii) at least one silicone oil having a viscosity greater than 10 mm2 / s at 25°C; and
[0014] (b) a plurality of aqueous phases comprising
[0015] (bi) at least one polyol, and
[0016] (b-ii) water,
[0017] in which
[0018] the first wax is chosen from waxes of natural origin,
[0019] the second wax is chosen from waxes of synthetic origin, and
[0020] the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase.
[0021] It is preferable that the (ai) first wax is jojoba esters.
[0022] The amount of the (ai) first wax in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0023] It is preferable that the (a-ii) second wax is a polyethylene wax.
[0024] The amount of the (a-ii) second wax in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0025] The (a-iii) silicone oil may be chosen from linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes.
[0026] The (a-iii) silicone oil may be a linear polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity of 1,000 mm2 / s or more, preferably 5,000 mm2 / s or more, and more preferably 10,000 mm2 / s or more, at 25°C.
[0027] The amount of (a-iii) silicone oil in the composition according to the present invention may be from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0028] The amount of the (a) fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be from 20% to 60% by weight, preferably from 25% to 55% by weight, more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0029] The (bi) polyol can be chosen from glycerins, glycols and their mixtures.
[0030] The amount of (bi)polyol in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0031] The amount of (b-ii) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% to 50% by weight, preferably 15% to 45% by weight, more preferably 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0032] The amount of (b) aqueous phases in the composition according to the present invention may be from 25% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 65% by weight, more preferably from 35% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0033] The fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention may further comprise (a-iv) at least one non-silicone oil, preferably chosen from ester oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof, and more preferably chosen from mixtures of ester oils and hydrocarbon oils.
[0034] The present invention also relates to a method for treating keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:
[0035] (1) the application of the composition according to the present invention on the kera- tines;
[0036] (2) optional rinsing of keratinous fibers; and
[0037] (3) optional drying of keratinous fibers. Best mode for carrying out the invention
[0038] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a solid composition which can reduce the original greasiness of the solid composition to, at least, a cosmetically acceptable level when applied to keratinous fibers, while providing the keratinous fibers with advantageous cosmetic effects such as sufficient finger passage, detangling / combing and softness of the keratinous fibers.
[0039] Thus, the present invention relates to a solid composition, preferably a solid cosmetic composition, for keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:
[0040] (a) a fatty phase comprising
[0041] (ai) at least one first wax,
[0042] (a-ii) at least one second wax, and
[0043] (a-iii) at least one silicone oil having a viscosity greater than 10 mm2 / s at 25°C; and
[0044] (b) a plurality of aqueous phases comprising
[0045] (bi) at least one polyol, and
[0046] (b-ii) water,
[0047] in which
[0048] the first wax is chosen from waxes of natural origin,
[0049] the second wax is chosen from waxes of synthetic origin, and
[0050] the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase.
[0051] By "keratinous fibers" is meant herein fibers that include at least one keratinous substance. It is preferable that at least a portion of the surface of the keratinous fibers is formed by keratinous substances. Examples of keratinous fibers include hair, eyebrows, eyelashes, and the like. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is used for the treatment of hair.
[0052] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an E / O emulsion.
[0053] When the composition according to the present invention is applied to keratinous fibers such as hair, the original greasiness of the composition according to the present invention can be reduced to at least a cosmetically acceptable level. Thus, a transformation of the texture is possible for the composition according to the present invention when it is applied to keratinous fibers. It is preferable that the original greasiness of the composition according to the present invention can be reduced upon its application to the keratinous fibers such that no or little greasiness is perceived. Although the composition according to the present invention has an external fatty phase, it can be easily applied to the keratinous fibers because the original greasiness derived from the external fatty phase can be reduced.
[0054] The composition according to the present invention can confer advantageous cosmetic effects to keratinous fibers such as hair, such as conditioning effects. The cosmetic effects provided by the composition according to the present invention can be translated, for example, by smooth finger passage, and / or ease of detangling or combing and / or softness of the keratinous fibers. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide the keratinous fibers with sufficient finger passage, detangling / combing and / or softness.
[0055] The composition according to the present invention is stable. The composition according to the present invention does not cause phase separation for a long period of time, even at high temperature. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention appears homogeneous and can maintain its homogeneous appearance.
[0056] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
[0057] [Composition]
[0058] One aspect of the present invention relates to a solid composition, preferably a solid cosmetic composition, for keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:
[0059] (a) a fatty phase comprising
[0060] (ai) at least one first wax,
[0061] (a-ii) at least one second wax, and
[0062] (a-iii) at least one silicone oil having a viscosity greater than 10 mm2 / s at 25°C; and
[0063] (b) a plurality of aqueous phases comprising
[0064] (bi) at least one polyol, and
[0065] (b-ii) water,
[0066] in which
[0067] the first wax is chosen from waxes of natural origin,
[0068] the second wax is chosen from waxes of synthetic origin, and
[0069] the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase.
[0070] The term "solid" herein refers to the state at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). A solid composition has a high consistency and can retain its shape during storage. Unlike a "fluid" composition, a solid composition does not flow under its own weight. For example, a solid composition does not flow under its own weight at room temperature under atmospheric pressure after 1 hour.
[0071] "Solid" may be defined by the fact that the maximum force measurement measured by texturometry during penetration of a probe into a formulation sample must be at least equal to 0.25 newtons, in particular at least equal to 0.30 newtons and in particular at least equal to 0.35 newtons, evaluated under specific measurement conditions as follows.
[0072] The formulations are hot-poured into pots 4 cm in diameter and 3 cm deep. Cooling is carried out at room temperature. The hardness of the prepared formulations is measured after waiting for 24 hours. The pots containing the samples are characterized by texturometry using a texturometer such as the TA-XT2 machine marketed by the company Rheo, according to the following protocol: a stainless steel ball-type probe 5 mm in diameter is brought into contact with the sample at a speed of 1 mm / s. The measuring system detects the interface with the sample with a detection threshold equal to 0.005 newtons. The probe penetrates 0.3 mm into the sample, at a speed of 0.1 mm / s. The measuring machine records the variation of the force measured in compression over time, during the penetration phase.The hardness of the sample corresponds to the average of the maximum values of the force detected during penetration, over at least three measurements.
[0073] {Fat phase]
[0074] The fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises
[0075] (ai) at least one first wax,
[0076] (a-ii) at least one second wax, and
[0077] (a-iii) at least one silicone oil having a viscosity greater than 10 mm2 / s at 25°C.
[0078] The (ai) first wax and the (a-ii) second wax are different from each other.
[0079] By "wax" is meant here a lipophilic compound (in particular an ester wax: ester of a higher fatty acid (Cio or higher, preferably C12 or higher) and a higher alcohol (C8 or higher)), solid at room temperature (25°C), except jojoba oil, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably 40°C, and more preferably 50°C, up to 100°C.
[0080] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point is measured, for example in accordance with the ASTM DI27 standard.
[0081] The (ai) first wax and the (a-ii) second wax used in the composition according to the present invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C, preferably greater than or equal to 65°C, and more preferably greater than or equal to 75°C. The (ai) first wax and the (a-ii) second wax used in the composition according to the present invention may have a melting point of up to 90°C, preferably up to 85°C.
[0082] The (ai) first wax and / or the (a-ii) second wax may have a hardness at 20°C greater than 5 MPa, and in particular between 5 and 15 MPa.
[0083] The hardness of the wax can be determined by measuring the compression force, measured at 20°C using a texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2 by the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter, moving at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm / second, and penetrating the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.
[0084] The hardness measurement protocol is as follows:
[0085] The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 10 °C. The molten wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 °C) for 24 hours so that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, then the wax is stored for at least 1 hour at 20 °C before measuring the hardness or adhesiveness.
[0086] The pin of the texturometer is moved at a speed of 0.1 mm / s, then penetrates the wax to a depth of 0.3 mm. When the pin has penetrated the wax to a depth of 0.3 mm, the pin is held stationary for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is then withdrawn at a speed of 0.5 mm / s.
[0087] The hardness value is the maximum measured compressive force divided by the surface area of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.
[0088] The amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 25% by weight or more, and more preferably 30% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0089] On the other hand, the amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 60% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 55% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0090] Consequently, the amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may range from 20% to 60% by weight, preferably from 25% to 55% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0091] (First wax)
[0092] The composition according to the present invention comprises (ai) at least one first wax. A single type of first wax may be used, or two or more different types of first waxes may be used in combination.
[0093] The (ai) first wax is chosen from waxes of natural origin. In other words, the (ai) first wax is a natural wax.
[0094] Examples of natural wax include petroleum wax, vegetable wax, and animal wax.
[0095] Examples of petroleum wax include paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, and petrolatum.
[0096] Examples of vegetable wax include jojoba esters, rice wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cocoa butter, cork fiber wax, and sugarcane wax.
[0097] Examples of animal wax include lanolin wax, lanolin derivatives, and beeswax.
[0098] It is preferable that the (ai) first wax is jojoba esters.
[0099] Jojoba esters can be represented by the formula (I):
[0100] R1-COO-CH2R1 (I)
[0101] in which R1 comprises CH3(CH2)y-, and y is 16, 18, 20 or 22.
[0102] Jojoba esters (wax) can be obtained by hydrogenation of jojoba oil of the following formula (II):
[0103] CH3-(CH2)7-CH=CH-CH2-(CH2)xC(=O)-O-CH2-(CH2)y-CH=CH-(CH2)7-CH3 (II)
[0104] in which x and y are independently 6, 8, 10 or 12.
[0105] Jojoba oil is composed of straight-chain monounsaturated fatty alcohols and monounsaturated fatty acids. The single double bond is located in the middle (n-9 position), counting from the terminal methyl group (-CH3) of the respective fatty acid or alcohol chain. Thus, from the point of view of chemical structure, jojoba oil is rather a liquid wax, and consists of esters of fatty alcohols and fatty acids having an even number of carbon atoms, mainly 20 and 22 carbons. The resulting esters have chain lengths of 38, 40, 42 and 44, with a small amount of esters of 36 and 4 carbon atoms present. The typical composition of jojoba oil is specified below.
[0106] [Tables 1] Jojoba Oil (X,Y) Typical % Chain Length (Area per GC) (6.6) 36 1 (6.8)(8.6) 38 8 (6.10)(8.8)(10.6) 40 39 (10.8)(8.10) 42 38 (10.10) 44 13 (12.10)(10.12) 46 1
[0107] Jojoba oil may be derived from the seed of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis).
[0108] Furthermore, jojoba esters can be obtained by ester exchange between jojoba oil and hydrogenated jojoba oil.
[0109] Jojoba esters are commercially available, for example from Vantage Specialty Ingredients, Inc. under the name Jojoba Ester 70.
[0110] The amount of the (ai) first wax in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0111] The amount of the (ai) first wax in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of the (ai) first wax is not zero.
[0112] The amount of the (ai) first wax in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0113] (Second wax)
[0114] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-ii) at least one second wax. A single type of second wax may be used, or two or more different types of second waxes may be used in combination.
[0115] The (a-ii) second wax is chosen from waxes of synthetic origin. In other words, the (a-ii) second wax is a synthetic wax.
[0116] Examples of synthetic wax include a synthetic hydrocarbon wax and a modified wax.
[0117] Examples of synthetic hydrocarbon wax include polyethylene wax, polypropylene wax, and Fischer-Tropsch wax.
[0118] Examples of modified wax include a paraffin wax derivative, a lignite wax derivative, and a microcrystalline wax derivative.
[0119] It is preferable that the (a-ii) second wax is selected from a synthetic hydrocarbon wax such as a polyethylene wax, a polypropylene wax and a Fischer-Tropsch wax.
[0120] Examples of polyethylene wax include ethylene homopolymer and ethylene-alpha-olefin copolymer. The wax can also be obtained by thermal decomposition of the copolymer. Examples of alpha-olefin include alpha-olefin having 3 to 12 carbon atoms such as propylene, 1-butene, 1-pentene, 1-hexene, 4-methyl-1-pentene and 1-octene.
[0121] Examples of polypropylene wax include propylene homopolymer, ethylene-propylene copolymer (which is a random or block copolymer), and propylene-alpha-olefin copolymer (except ethylene or propylene). Alternatively, the wax may be obtained by thermal decomposition of the copolymer. Examples of alpha-olefin include 1-butene, 1-pentene, 1-hexene, 1-heptene, 1-octene, 4-methyl-1-pentene, 1-decene, 1-dodecene, 1-tetradecene, 1-hexadecene, and 1-octadecene.
[0122] The polyethylene wax and the polypropylene wax can be obtained by a known method using a polymerization catalyst such as a Ziegler catalyst, a Ziegler-Natta catalyst and a metallocene catalyst. In particular, the polyethylene wax and the polypropylene wax obtained by using a metallocene catalyst as a polymerization catalyst are preferable because they have a narrow molecular weight distribution and a stable quality, compared with the polyethylene wax and the polypropylene wax obtained by using a Ziegler catalyst or a Ziegler-Natta catalyst as a polymerization catalyst.
[0123] Fischer-Tropsch wax is a synthetic hydrocarbon wax mainly comprising linear hydrocarbons, which is obtained by reacting water gas containing carbon monoxide and hydrogen as main components under normal pressure at 170 to 250°C using a catalyst such as cobalt, nickel or iron. The Fischer-Tropsch wax is characterized in that it comprises hydrocarbons containing odd and even numbers of carbon atoms, i.e., comprising both hydrocarbons containing odd numbers of carbon atoms and hydrocarbons containing even numbers of carbon atoms.
[0124] Preferably, the (a-ii) second wax is a polyethylene wax.
[0125] The amount of the (a-ii) second wax in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0126] The amount of the (a-ii) second wax in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of the (a-ii) second wax is not zero.
[0127] The amount of the (a-ii) second wax in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0128] (Silicone oil)
[0129] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-iii) at least one silicone oil having a viscosity greater than 10 mm2 / s at 25°C. A single type of such a silicone oil can be used, or two or more different types of these silicone oils can be used in combination.
[0130] The viscosity measurement is generally carried out at 25 °C using a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer equipped with spindle No. 2, the measurement being carried out after having rotated the spindle within the composition for 10 minutes (the time at the end of which a stabilization of the viscosity and of the rotation speed of the spindle is observed), at 200 revolutions per minute (rpm).
[0131] The (a-iii) silicone oil may have a viscosity of 100 mm2 / s or more, preferably 500 mm2 / s or more, more preferably 1,000 mm2 / s or more, more preferably 5,000 mm2 / s or more, more preferably 10,000 mm2 / s or more, more preferably 50,000 mm2 / s or more, and even more preferably 100,000 mm2 / s or more, at 25°C.
[0132] By "silicone oil" is meant here a silicone compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or paste at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As silicone oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.
[0133] Silicones or organopolysiloxanes are defined, for example, by Walter NOLL in “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0134] The (a-iii) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from volatile silicones, non-volatile silicones and mixtures thereof.
[0135] Thus, the (a-iii) silicone oil may comprise either at least one volatile silicone oil, or at least one non-volatile silicone oil, or both at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil.
[0136] The volatile or non-volatile silicone may be chosen from linear, branched or cyclic silicones, optionally modified by at least one moiety or one organo-functional group.
[0137] For example, the (a-iii) silicone oil may be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyalkylaryl-siloxanes such as phenyltrimethicone, polydiarylsiloxanes and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one organofunctional moiety or group selected from poly(oxyalkylene) moieties or groups, amine or amide moieties or groups, alkoxy or alkoxyalkyl moieties or groups, hydroxyl or hydroxylated moieties or groups, acyloxy or acyloxyalkyl moieties or groups, carboxylic acid or carboxylate moieties or groups, hydroxyacylamino moieties or groups, acrylic moieties or groups, polyamine or polyamide moieties or groups, and oxazoline moieties.
[0138] If the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) are volatile, the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from those which have a boiling point ranging from 60°C to 260°C, for example:
[0139] (i) cyclic silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, for example, from 4 to 6 silicon atoms. Non-limiting examples of such siloxanes include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed, for example, under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, KF-995 by SHIN ETSU, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (INCI: CY-CLOHEXASILOXANE) marketed, for example, under the trade name XIAMETER® PMX-246 and the trade name DC246 Fluid by Dow Corning, and mixtures thereof. Cyclomethicones, for example those marketed under the references DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345, and DC 246 by DOW CORNING, may also be used. Dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane cyclocopolymers, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula
[0140] in which:
[0141] Combinations of cyclic silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes with organic silicon-derived compounds may also be used, such as a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50), and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; and
[0142] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 9 silicon atoms. A non-limiting example of such a compound is decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed, for example, under the trade name “SH-200” by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones belonging to this class are also described, for example, in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32—TODD & BYERS “Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics”.
[0143] If the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) are volatile, the (a) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from cyclic silicones.
[0144] On the other hand, the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organomodified polysiloxanes as explained above.
[0145] According to one embodiment, the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, for example polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups known under the trade name of dimethicones.
[0146] Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to such polydialkylsiloxanes include:
[0147] SILBIONE® fluids of the 47 and 70 047 ranges and MIRASIL® fluids marketed by RHODIA, for example fluid 70 047 V 500 000;
[0148] fluids from the MIRASIL® range marketed by RHODIA;
[0149] fluids of the 200 range marketed by DOW CORNING such as DC200, with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s;
[0150] XIAMETER® PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 60000CS marketed by Dow Corning;
[0151] VISCASIL® fluids from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain fluids from the SF range (for example SF 96 and SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC; and
[0152] the fluid marketed under the reference DC 1664 by DOW CORNING.
[0153] It is also possible to use the products marketed under the trade names “AB IL Wax® 9800 and 9801” from GOLDSCHMIDT belonging to this class of poly-dialkylsiloxanes, which are polydialkyl (CrC2o) siloxanes.
[0154] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes may be chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.
[0155] Non-limiting examples of such polyalkylarylsiloxanes include products marketed under the following trade names:
[0156] SILBIONE® fluids from the 70 641 range from RHODIA; RHODORSIL® fluids from the 70 633 and 763 range from RHODIA;
[0157] phenyltrimethicone fluids marketed under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID from DOW CORNING;
[0158] silicones from the BAYER PK range, for example, the PK20 product;
[0159] silicones from the PN and PH ranges from BAYER, for example, the PN1000 products and PH1000; and
[0160] certain fluids from the GENERAL ELECTRIC SF range, for example the products SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0161] The organomodified silicones which can be used according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, silicones such as those defined above and comprising in their structure at least one organofunctional moiety or group linked directly or by means of a hydrocarbon group.
[0162] The organomodified silicones may include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
[0163] polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy moieties optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl moieties, such as the products called dimethicone copolyols marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name DC 1248 and under the trade name DC Q2-5220 and SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, and L 711 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, as well as PEG12 dimethicone marked under the trade name XIAMETER® OFX-0193 FLUID from DOW CORNING, and (C12)alkyl-methicone copolyol marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name Q2 5200;
[0164] optionally substituted amine moieties, for example, the products marketed under the trade name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE and the products marketed under the trade names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 and 939 by DOW CORNING. The substituted amine moieties may be selected, for example, from C1-C4 aminoalkyl moieties. Aminosilicones or Amodimethicones may have additional C1-C4 alkoxy functional groups, such as those corresponding to the product WACKER BELSIL ADM LOG 1. Aminosilicones or amodimethicones may have at least one, preferably two, additional alkyl group(s) such as C12-C20, preferably C14-C18, and more preferably C16-C18 alkyl groups, preferably at the end(s) of their molecular chain, such as bis-cetearylamodimethicone, marketed under the name “Silsoft Ax” by Momentive Performance Materials;
[0165] alkoxylated fractions, such as the product marketed under the trade name “SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755” by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434, and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT;
[0166] hydroxylated fractions, such as the polyorganosiloxanes with hydroxyalkyl function described, for example, in French patent application No. FR-A-8 516 334;
[0167] acyloxyalkyl moieties, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in U.S. Patent No. 4,957,732;
[0168] anionic moieties of the carboxylic acid type, for example, the products described in European Patent No. 0 186 507, marketed under No. 1.1.1. 0 186 507, marketed by CHISSO CORPORATION, and anionic moieties of the alkyl carboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E marketed by SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; and 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names “ABIL® S201” and “ABIL® S255”;
[0169] hydroxyacylamino moieties, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in European patent application No. 0 342 834. A non-limiting example of a corresponding commercial product is the product Q2-8413 marketed by DOW CORNING;
[0170] acrylic fractions, such as the products marketed under the names VS80 and VS70 by 3M;
[0171] polyamine fractions, and
[0172] oxazoline fractions
[0173] Silicones that may be used according to the present invention may comprise 1 or 2 oxazoline groups; for example, poly(2-methyl oxazoline-b-dimethyl siloxane-b-2-methyl oxazoline) and poly(2-ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane). products marketed by KAO under the references OX-40, OS-51, OS-96, and OS-88 can also be used.
[0174] It is also possible to use polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups, for example those sold under the trade name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the fluids of the 48 range marketed by RHODIA.
[0175] If the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) are non-volatile, the (a-iii) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes and organomodified polydimethylsiloxanes. The organomodified polydimethylsiloxane may be chosen from amodimethicones. The viscosity of the polydimethylsiloxane or organomodified polydimethylsiloxane may be between 1,000,000 mm2 / s and 20,000,000 mm2 / s.
[0176] It may be preferable that the (a-iii) silicone oil is selected from volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing pendant alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups and / or at the end or ends of the silicone chain, these groups having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl siloxy-silicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and organomodified silicones such as dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol (e.g. g., PEG12 dimethicone) and amodi-methicone (e.g., bis-cetearylamodimethicone).
[0177] It is possible to use a combination of at least one volatile silicone and at least one non-volatile silicone, such as (a-iii) silicone oil. Non-limiting examples of such combinations include a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol, marketed, for example, under the name Xiameter PMX-1501 Fluid by Dow Corning.
[0178] The (a-iii) silicone oil may be selected from linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes. It is preferable that the (a-iii) silicone oil is selected from linear polydimethylsiloxanes.
[0179] The (a-iii) silicone oil may be a linear polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity of 1,000 mm2 / s or more, preferably 5,000 mm2 / s or more, and more preferably 10,000 mm2 / s or more, at 25°C. It is preferable that the linear polydimethylsiloxane has a viscosity of 1,000,000 mm2 / s or less, more preferably 800,000 mm2 / s or less, and even more preferably 600,000 mm2 / s or less, at 25°C.
[0180] The amount of (a-iii) silicone oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0181] On the other hand, the amount of (a-iii) silicone oil in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 45% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of (a-iii) silicone oil is not zero.
[0182] Accordingly, the amount of (a-iii) silicone in the composition according to the present invention may range from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0183] (Non-silicone oil)
[0184] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (a-iv) at least one non-silicone oil. A single type of non-silicone oil may be used, or two or more different types of non-silicone oils may be used in combination.
[0185] The term "oil" herein refers to a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0186] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0187] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.
[0188] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0189] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0190] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0191] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of monobasic or polybasic acids aliphatic C1-C26, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and aliphatic C1-C26, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0192] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0193] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0194] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols may also be used, as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols.
[0195] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.
[0196] As ester oils, esters and diesters of sugars of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds comprising several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0197] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0198] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, in C6-C30 and preferably in C12-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0199] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and their mixtures.
[0200] These esters can be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0201] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0202] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0203] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, dii-isopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0204] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0205] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:
[0206] - lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, e.g., isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and
[0207] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.
[0208] Preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petroleum jelly, naphthalenes and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0209] The term "fat" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively significant number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms fall within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
[0210] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.
[0211] Examples of fatty alcohol include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonic alcohol, erucic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0212] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.
[0213] Thus, the fatty alcohol may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C3o alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C6-C3o alcohols, and more preferably linear or branched, saturated C12-C20 alcohols.
[0214] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" herein refers to an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol is selected from all linear or branched C6-C30 saturated fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched C6-C30 saturated fatty alcohols, linear or branched C12-C20 saturated fatty alcohols may be preferably used. All linear or branched C16-C20 saturated fatty alcohols may be more preferably used. Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be more preferably used.
[0215] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.
[0216] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and their mixtures.
[0217] It is preferable that the (a-iv) non-silicone oil is selected from ester oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected among mixtures of ester oils and hydrocarbon oils.
[0218] The amount of the (a-iv) non-silicone oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0219] The amount of the (a-iv) non-silicone oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0220] The amount of the (a-iv) non-silicone oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 2% and 25% by weight, and more preferably between 3% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0221] {Aqueous phase]
[0222] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises
[0223] (bi) at least one polyol, and
[0224] (b-ii) water.
[0225] The amount of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 35% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0226] On the other hand, the amount of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 70% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 65% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0227] Accordingly, the amount of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be between 25% and 70% by weight, preferably between 30% and 65% by weight, and more preferably between 35% and 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0228] (Polyol)
[0229] The composition according to the present invention comprises (bi) at least one polyol. Two or more different types of (bi) polyols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of the (bi) polyol or a combination of different types of (bi) polyols may be used.
[0230] The term "polyol" herein refers to an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not include a saccharide or a derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the atom or atoms hydrogen atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has or has been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.
[0231] The polyols used in the present invention are liquid at room temperature, for example at 25°C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa).
[0232] The polyol may be a C2-C24 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.
[0233] The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
[0234] The polyol may be selected from glycerins, glycols and mixtures thereof. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, C6-C24 polyethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, and a mixture thereof.
[0235] It is preferable that the (bi)polyol is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and a mixture thereof.
[0236] The amount of the (bi)polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0237] The amount of the (bi)polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0238] The amount of the (bi)polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0239] (Water)
[0240] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b-ii) water.
[0241] The amount of (b-ii) water may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15%. by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0242] On the other hand, the amount of (b-ii) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of (b-ii) water is not zero.
[0243] The amount of (b-ii) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0244] (Optional ingredient)
[0245] The composition according to the present invention may also include at least one optional or additional ingredient.
[0246] The optional or additional ingredient(s) may be selected from the group consisting of cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers; anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants; organic or inorganic UV filters; peptides and their derivatives; protein hydrolysates; bulking agents and penetrating agents; hair loss control agents; anti-dandruff agents; natural or synthetic thickeners for oils; suspending agents; sequestering agents; opacifying agents; dyes; sunscreen agents; vitamins or provitamins; fragrances; preservatives, co-preservatives, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.
[0247] The composition according to the present invention may include at least one additional silicone oil having a viscosity greater than 2 mm2 / s, preferably greater than 3 mm2 / s, and more preferably greater than 4 mm2 / s, at 25°C, and less than or equal to 10 mm2 / s, preferably less than or equal to 9 mm2 / s, more preferably less than or equal to 8 mm2 / s, and even more preferably less than or equal to 7 mm2 / s, at 25°C.
[0248] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention includes a cationic polymer and / or a cationic surfactant.
[0249] Examples of cationic polymers include cationic guar gums such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Examples include guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0250] Examples of cationic surfactants include fatty amide amines such as stearamidopropyldimethylamine and quaternary ammonium salts such as behentrimonium chloride and cetrimonium chloride.
[0251] The amount of the optional or additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may be from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
[0252] {Preparation}
[0253] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
[0254] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0255] {Shape}
[0256] In the composition according to the present invention, a plurality of aqueous phases are dispersed in a fatty phase. The aqueous phases are discontinuous phases, while the fatty phase is a continuous phase.
[0257] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a water-in-wax (or wax / oil) type composition, more preferably a water-in-wax (or wax / oil) type emulsion.
[0258] {Application}
[0259] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a hair cosmetic composition. More preferably, the composition according to the present invention is not used for dyeing or coloring keratinous fibers such as hair.
[0260] The composition according to the present invention may be of the "leave-in" or "rinse-out" type. The leave-in type composition is not rinsed after being used on the keratinous fibers. The rinse-out type composition is rinsed after being used on the keratinous fibers. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is of the leave-in type.
[0261] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise a pigment.
[0262] [Process]
[0263] The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:
[0264] (1) the application of the composition according to the present invention as explained above- above on the keratinous fibers;
[0265] (2) optional rinsing of keratinous fibers; and
[0266] (3) optional drying of keratinous fibers.
[0267] For the drying step, any conventional drying technique can be used to dry the keratinous fibers.
[0268] It is possible to carry out, if necessary, a rinsing step before and / or after drying the keratinous fibers.
[0269] [Use]
[0270] The present invention may also relate to a use of a solid composition, comprising:
[0271] (a) a fatty phase comprising
[0272] (ai) at least one first wax whose melting point is greater than or equal to 50°C,
[0273] (a-ii) at least one second wax whose melting point is greater than or equal to 50°C, and
[0274] (a-iii) at least one silicone oil having a viscosity greater than 10 mm2 / s at 25°C;
[0275] and
[0276] (b) a plurality of aqueous phases comprising
[0277] (bi) at least one polyol, and
[0278] (b-ii) water,
[0279] in which
[0280] the first wax is chosen from waxes of natural origin,
[0281] the second wax is chosen from waxes of synthetic origin, and
[0282] the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase,
[0283] in order to cosmetically treat keratinous fibers such as hair, characterized in that the original oiliness of the solid composition is reduced to at least a cosmetically acceptable level when applied to the keratinous fibers, giving the keratinous fibers advantageous cosmetic effects such as sufficient finger passage, detangling / combing, and softness of the keratinous fibers.
[0284] The above explanations concerning ingredients (ai) to (a-iii) and (bi) to (b-ii) can be applied to those of the use according to the present invention.
[0285] EXAMPLES
[0286] The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 3
[0287] [Preparation]
[0288] Each of the hair compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 (Ex. 1 to Ex. 3) and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 (Ex. comp. 1 to Ex. comp. 3) was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1.
[0289] More specifically, first, the ingredients for a fatty phase including waxes and oils, as well as surfactants, were heated to 85°C and mixed with a mixer at about 700 rpm to obtain a mixture. Separately, the ingredients for the aqueous phases were added to the above mixture at 85°C, and emulsified with a mixer at about 1,000 rpm for 20 minutes to obtain an emulsion. The other ingredients including phenoxyethanol were added to the above emulsion at about 75°C and mixed with a mixer at about 2,800 rpm for 5 minutes. Finally, the resulting composition was poured into a beaker at 75°C and cooled to room temperature.
[0290] The numerical values for the ingredient amounts in Table 2 are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.
[0291] [Tables2] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. comp. 1 Ex. comp. 2 Ex. comp. 3 Jojoba Esters 5.0 4.0 3.0 - 10.0 5.0 Polyethylene Wax 5.0 4.0 3.0 10.0 - 5.0 Paraffin 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Propylene Glycol 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Glycerin 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Dipropylene Glycol 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 Silica (and) Dimethicone 1.0 1.0 - 1.0 1.0 1.0 Sorbitan Sesquioleate 0.21 0.21 0.21 0.21 0.21 0.21 Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 Dimethicone (5 mm2 / s*) 20.0 - - 20.0 20.0 - Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 PEG-10 Dimethicone 0.86 0.86 0.86 0.86 0.86 0.86 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Dimethicone (500,000 mm2 / s*) 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 - Isododecane 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 - Isononyl Isononanoate - 15.0 10.0 - - - Dimethicone (6 mm2 / s*) - 15.0 15.0 - - - Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride - - 0.3 - - - Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine - - 1 - - - Dimethicone (2 mm2 / s*) - - - - - 30.0 Fragrance 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Formation of emulsion Yes Yes Yes Yes No Yes , Finger Runs Average Good Very Good Very Poor ND Very Poor Detangling / Combing Average Good Very Good Poor ND Very Poor Detangling / Combing Average Good Very Good Very Poor ND Very Poor Non-Bold Character Average Good Very Good Poor ND Poor
[0292] * at 25°C
[0293] ND: Not available
[0294] [Emulsion formation]
[0295] It was observed under a microscope whether the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were in the form of a W / O emulsion. The results are shown in Table 1.
[0296] [Evaluations]
[0297] 2.7 g of a strand of bleached hair 27 cm long was wetted with water. Excess water was removed with a towel. 0.1 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were applied to the hair strand, and then the hair strand was completely dried. Finger passage, detangling / combing, hair softness, and non-greasy character on the hair were evaluated by 5 panelists with a score of 1 to 5 according to the following criteria and averaged. The results are shown in Table 1.
[0298] 5: Very good
[0299] 4: Good
[0300] 3: Medium
[0301] 2: Bad
[0302] 1: Very bad
[0303] The criteria “Average”, “Good” and “Very good” are acceptable.
[0304] The criteria “bad” and “very bad” are not acceptable.
[0305] {Summary}
[0306] The composition according to Example 1 was in the form of a W / O emulsion, and was capable of reducing the initial oiliness of the composition to an acceptable level when applied to the hair. The composition according to Example 1 was also capable of providing acceptable finger-passing, acceptable detangling / combing, and acceptable hair softness.
[0307] The composition according to Example 2, which further included a non-silicone oil (isononyl isononanoate) in addition to the ingredients of the composition according to Example 1, is in the form of a W / O emulsion, and was capable of further reducing the initial oiliness of the composition when applied to the hair. The composition according to Example 2 was also capable of providing the hair with good fingering, detangling / combing, and softness.
[0308] The composition according to Example 3, which further included hair conditioning agents / antistatic agents (hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine) in addition to the ingredients of the composition according to Example 1, was in the form of a W / O emulsion, and was capable of further reducing the initial greasiness of the composition when applied to the hair. The composition according to Example 3 was also capable of providing the hair with very good finger rollability, detangling / combing, and softness.
[0309] The composition according to Comparative Example 1, lacking the first wax, was in the form of a W / O emulsion, but could not reduce the initial oiliness of the composition to an acceptable level when applied to the hair. The composition according to Comparative Example 1 could not provide the hair with acceptable finger passability, acceptable detangling / combing and acceptable hair softness.
[0310] The composition according to Comparative Example 2 without second wax was not in the form of a W / O emulsion, and therefore, evaluation of the cosmetic effects was not possible.
[0311] The composition according to Comparative Example 3 corresponds to the prior art disclosed in WO 2021 / 120 084, since the specific formulations disclosed in WO 2021 / 120 084 include only silicone oil with a viscosity of 2 mm2 / s.
[0312] The composition according to Comparative Example 3 which was free of silicone oil having a viscosity greater than 10 mm2 / s at 25°C was in the form of a W / O emulsion but could not reduce the initial oiliness of the composition to an acceptable level when applied to the hair. The composition according to Comparative Example 3 could not provide the hair with acceptable finger passability, acceptable detangling / combing, and acceptable hair softness.
Claims
Claims
1. Solid composition, preferably solid cosmetic composition, for keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: (a) a fatty phase comprising (ai) at least one first wax, (a-ii) at least one second wax, and (a-iii) at least one silicone oil having a viscosity greater than 10 mm2 / s at 25°C; (a-iv) at least one non-silicone oil, and (b) a plurality of aqueous phases comprising (bi) at least one polyol, and (b-ii) water, wherein the first wax is chosen from waxes of natural origin, the second wax is chosen from waxes of synthetic origin, and the aqueous phases are dispersed in the fatty phase.
2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the (ai) first wax is chosen from jojoba esters.
3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the (a-ii) second wax is a polyethylene wax.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the (a-iii) silicone oil is chosen from linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes.
5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (a-iii) silicone oil is a linear polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity of 1,000 mm2 / s or more, preferably 5,000 mm2 / s or more, and more preferably 10,000 mm2 / s or more, at 25°C.
6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of (a) fatty phase is 20% to 60% by weight, preferably 25% to 55% by weight, more preferably 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the (bi) polyol is chosen from glycerins, glycols and mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, in wherein the amount of (b) aqueous phases is from 25% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 65% by weight, more preferably from 35% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, in which the non-silicone oil is chosen from ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof, and preferably chosen from mixtures of ester oils and hydrocarbon oils.
10. A method of treating keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: (1) applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous fibers; (2) optionally rinsing the keratinous fibers; and (3) optionally drying the keratinous fibers.