HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITION
A hair treatment composition combining citric acid, citric acid salts, surfactants, and fatty alcohols addresses the challenge of damaging hair treatments by enhancing hair strength, shine, and health, while minimizing damage and improving durability.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022001499
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-02-21
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-27
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-02-21
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair treatment compositions often damage hair fibers and irritate the scalp, despite their ability to enhance hair color and shape. There is a need for compositions that can chemically treat hair while providing cosmetic benefits like shine, conditioning, and fiber strength without causing damage.
The use of a unique combination of citric acid, citric acid salts, surfactants, and fatty alcohols in a hair treatment composition, which interacts to restructure, strengthen, and protect the keratinous fibers of the hair. This composition is formulated to be pH-adjusted between 3 and 10, with a specific weight percentage of citric acid and its salts, and includes cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and fatty compounds to enhance hair health.
The composition significantly improves the quality and durability of hair, including chemically treated hair, by repairing, minimizing, and compensating for damage caused by chemical treatments and environmental factors. It enhances the cosmetic properties of hair such as softness, shine, and strength, while maintaining the health and integrity of the hair fibers.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITION field of disclosure
[0001] The present disclosure relates to hair treatment compositions and methods of treating hair with the hair treatment compositions. BACKGROUND
[0002] Many consumers desire to use cosmetic and care compositions that enhance the appearance of keratinous substrates such as hair, for example by altering the color, style, and / or shape of the hair, and / or by imparting various cosmetic properties to the hair, such as shine and conditioning. Many of the compositions and processes known for enhancing the appearance of hair involve chemical treatments to the hair.
[0003] The process of changing hair color, for example, may involve depositing an artificial color on the hair that gives it a different shade or color, and / or enhancing the hair color, such as lightening dark hair color to lighter shades. The process of enhancing hair color, also called lightening (or bleaching), generally requires the use of oxidizing agents. Hair lightening is typically assessed by the variation in the pitch before and after the application of a hair color-changing composition to the hair. This variation corresponds to the degree or level of lightening or enhancement. The notion of "tone" is based on the classification of natural shades, a tone separating each shade from the shade immediately following or preceding it, well known to hair professionals.Tone heights or levels can range from 1 (black) to 10 (light blonde), one unit corresponding to one tone; thus, the higher the number, the lighter the shade or the greater the degree of enhancement.
[0004] In general, hair lightening or color enhancing compositions and hair coloring or dyeing compositions possess an alkalinity such that these compositions have a pH value greater than 7, typically being at pH 9 and above, and may generally require the presence of an alkalizing agent such as ammonia or a gaseous ammonia generating compound and / or an amine or ammonium based compound in sufficient amounts to render these compositions alkaline. The alkalizing agent causes the hair shaft to swell, which allows small oxidative dye molecules to penetrate the cuticle and the cortex before the oxidation-condensation process is complete. The larger colored complexes resulting from the oxidative reaction are then trapped inside the hair fiber, permanently changing the hair color.
[0005] In addition, there are many techniques and compositions for styling or altering the shape of hair. For example, hair care products called "relaxers" or "straighteners" can straighten or straighten curly or kinky hair, including wavy hair. Straightening or relaxing the curls of very curly hair can increase the manageability and manageability of such hair. Compositions for permanently waving hair impart a curl or wave to otherwise straight hair. Various types of compositions can be applied to the hair to alter its shape and make it more manageable, such as alkaline and acidic compositions. Relaxing, straightening, perming, and / or waving can be applied in a hair salon by a professional or at home by the individual consumer.
[0006] Although dyeing or color enhancing compositions can effectively change the color of hair, and straightening, smoothing, perming, and waving compositions can effectively change the shape of hair, these chemical treatments can damage hair fibers and / or irritate the scalp. Thus, in order to reduce or avoid damage to the hair, as well as to improve the cosmetic performance of the compositions, the use of new and additional components and innovative ingredient combinations is continually sought.
[0007] However, the selection of components or combinations of ingredients can pose difficulties in that they may not detract from other cosmetic attributes such as ease and uniformity of application, rheology or viscosity properties and stability of the compositions, color deposition and formation of the target shade, and / or result in other disadvantages such as increased damage or a less healthy appearance of the hair. It would therefore be desirable to provide the consumer with compositions and methods that can chemically treat the hair while providing other cosmetic benefits such as shine, conditioning, fiber strength and / or a healthy appearance of the hair, but avoiding or minimizing damage to the hair.
[0008] Furthermore, natural and sensitized or chemically treated hair may contain several types of negatively charged moieties, for example, carboxylates (resulting from the hydrolysis of amino acids and thioester bonds) and / or sulfonates (resulting from the oxidation of disulfide bonds). These negatively charged moieties may degrade the cosmetic properties of the hair. In addition, when the hair is chemically treated or damaged, the disulfide bonds of the hair (disulfide links between two cysteine units) can be reduced or broken, resulting in the formation of thiol and / or cysteic acid groups.
[0009] Thus, an objective of the disclosure is to provide novel compositions that can provide beneficial effects such as strengthening of the hair fiber, protection of the hair fibers from damage or other harm, enhanced properties such as softness, shine, conditioning, healthy appearance, while at the same time providing the desired cosmetic. Disclosure Summary
[0010] The present disclosure relates to hair treatment compositions and methods of treating hair or body hair, e.g., hair. The compositions and methods significantly improve the quality and durability of hair, including chemically treated hair. Damage to the hair during or resulting from chemical treatment is repaired, minimized, and / or compensated for by a unique combination of components in the compositions that interact to restructure, strengthen, and / or protect the keratinous fibers of the hair. The compositions also prevent, mitigate, and / or treat damage to the hair caused by environmental factors (e.g., hard water, sun damage, chlorine, etc.) and styling the hair, e.g., with heat (e.g., blow drying, hot irons, etc.).) Hair treated with the compositions is surprisingly strengthened and the cosmetic properties of the hair (e.g. softness, smoothness and discipline) are significantly improved.
[0011] In one embodiment, the hair treatment compositions include: (a) about 0.25 to about 10 wt. % of citric acid, one or more citric acid salts, or a combination thereof, wherein if a combination of citric acid and citric acid salts is present, the weight ratio of citric acid to citric acid salts added to form the combination is from 1:10 to about 10:1; or the hair treatment composition comprises about 1 to about 10 wt. % of a combination of citric acid and citric acid salts, wherein the weight ratio of citric acid to citric acid salts added to the hair treatment composition to form the combination is from 1:10 to 10:1; (b) one or more surfactants; and (c) water; wherein the pH of the composition is from about 3 to about 10; and the weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.
[0012] Non-limiting examples of citric acid salts include sodium citrate, tribasic sodium citrate, citric acid trisodium salt, trisodium citrate, sodium citrate dihydrate, tribasic sodium citrate dihydrate, citric acid trisodium salt dihydrate, trisodium citrate dihydrate, potassium citrate, tripotassium citrate, potassium tribasic, tripotassium salt of citric acid, potassium citrate monohydrate, tripotassium citrate monohydrate, potassium citrate tribasic monohydrate, tripotassium salt of citric acid monohydrate, disodium salt of citric acid, disodium salt of citric acid sesquihydrate, sodium hydrogen citrate, sodium hydrogen citrate sesquihydrate, disodium hydrogen citrate, disodium hydrogen citrate sesquihydrate, sodium citrate dibasic, sodium citrate dibasic sesquihydrate, potassium citrate monobasic, potassium dihydrogen citrate, monopotassium salt of citric acid, sodium citrate monobasic, sodium dihydrogen citrate, monosodium salt of citric acid, and the like. In a preferred embodiment, the citric acid salts include sodium citrate (monosodium citrate, disodium citrate and / or trisodium citrate), potassium citrate (also known as tripotassium citrate), and combinations thereof.
[0013] In various embodiments, the surfactant(s) of (b) include or consist of one or more cationic surfactants.Non-limiting examples of useful cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, laura-midopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0014] In various embodiments, at least one of the one or more surfactants of (b) is a nonionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, or a combination thereof.
[0015] In various embodiments, the hair treatment compositions are in the form of an emulsion, for example, an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion. Fatty alcohols and additional fatty compounds (also referred to as "fats") form at least a portion of the fatty phase (oil phase) of the emulsions. Accordingly, in various embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include: (d) one or more fatty alcohols; and (e) one or more fatty compounds other than fatty alcohols.
[0016] The aqueous phase includes water, and optionally water-soluble components water, for example, one or more water-soluble solvents. The compositions typically include high amounts of water, for example, at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 55% by weight, and more preferably, at least 60% by weight.
[0017] Fatty alcohols are well known in the art, and include aliphatic alcohols, for example, primary alcohols having a carbon chain of about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, un-decyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis-4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.In some cases, the fatty alcohols comprise at least one of the following compounds, or may be selected from them: myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.
[0018] Fatty compounds other than the fatty alcohols mentioned above may optionally be included in the hair treatment compositions. The term "fatty compound" is interchangeable with the term "fatty material." As is well known in the art, fatty compounds are compounds that are not soluble (or only sparingly soluble in water; they are hydrophilic and can often be solubilized in organic solvents). They include materials such as oils, fats, waxes, hydrocarbons, fatty esters, fatty acids, etc. Non-limiting examples of useful fatty compounds include oils, waxes, alkanes (paraffins), fatty acids, fatty esters, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, hydrocarbons, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0019] In various embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include both: (d) one or more fatty alcohols; and (e) one or more fatty compounds other than fatty alcohols. The weight ratio of the (d) one or more fatty alcohols to the (e) one or more fatty compounds other than fatty alcohols may vary. However, in some embodiments, the weight ratio is between about 2:1 and about 15:1, preferably between about 3:1 and about 10:1, more preferably between about 4:1 and about 8:1.
[0020] In various embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include: (f) one or more water-soluble solvents. Non-limiting examples of useful water-soluble solvents include glycerin, C 1-6 monohydric alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof. In some embodiments, it is preferable that the hair treatment composition includes at least glycerin, one or more C1-6 monohydric alcohols, or a mixture thereof.
[0021] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes: (g) one or more nonionic thickening polymers. Non-limiting examples of useful nonionic thickening polymers include guar gum, guar derivatives, cellulose gum, cellulose derivatives, starch, starch derivatives, polysaccharides, polysaccharide derivatives, ethylene oxide homopolymers and copolymers having a molecular weight of 10,000 g / mol or greater, polyvinyl alcohols, vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers and copolymers, vinylcaprolactam homopolymers and copolymers, polyvinyl methyl ether homopolymers and copolymers, and mixtures thereof. In certain embodiments, guar gum and / or guar derivatives (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar) are particularly useful.
[0022] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes: (h) one or more conditioning agents. Non-limiting examples of conditioning agents include cationic polymers and silicones. In some embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include one or more cationic polymers. Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers include cationic cellulose derivatives, quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose (e.g., polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, etc.), cationic starch derivatives, cationic guar gum derivatives, cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates, quaternary diammonium polymers, copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldial-lyammonium chloride, polyquatemiums (e.g., polyquatemium-10), and a mixture thereof.
[0023] In some embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include one or more silicones. Non-limiting examples of silicones include dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl tri-methicone, amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, and a mixture thereof.
[0024] The hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure, in various embodiments, are part of a kit, e.g., a kit comprising one or more hair treatment compositions according to the present disclosure and one or more additional hair treatment compositions, each of the one or more hair treatment compositions (and each of the additional hair treatment compositions) being contained separately. For example, in some embodiments, the kits com take: (i) one or more hair treatment compositions according to the present disclosure; and (ii) one or more additional hair treatment compositions selected from hair cleansing compositions (shampoos), hair conditioning compositions (conditioners), and hair treatment compositions for chemically treating hair comprising one or more chemically active agents that chemically treat the hair.
[0025] The hair treatment compositions are particularly useful in methods of treating hair, for example, methods of restructuring, repairing, strengthening and / or protecting hair. These methods are suitable for repairing, minimizing, mitigating and / or compensating for damage caused to the hair by chemical treatments (e.g., bleaching, coloring, straightening, curling, etc.). The methods also relate to preventing, minimizing, mitigating and treating hair vulnerable to damage (or already damaged) by environmental factors (e.g., hard water, sun damage, chlorine, etc.) and to damage caused by styling the hair, for example, with heat (e.g., blow drying, hot irons, etc.).
[0026] The methods include applying one or more hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure to the hair. The one or more hair treatment compositions may be temporarily applied to the hair (e.g., applied for a period of about 1 hour or less and rinsed from the hair), or may be applied to the hair and left on the hair for a longer period of time before being rinsed from the hair (e.g., for about 2 minutes, 5 minutes, 10 minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes or more). In cases where the hair treatment composition is rinsed from the hair shortly after application (immediately after application or within 2, 5, 10, 20, 30 minutes or more) before styling the hair, the hair treatment composition is a "rinse-out" product.In some embodiments, the hair treatment compositions are applied to the hair and may remain on the hair indefinitely, e.g., they may remain on the hair without being rinsed out prior to styling the hair, i.e., the hair treatment composition is a "leave-in" product. The methods are particularly well-suited for application to chemically treated hair, hair to be chemically treated, damaged hair, and natural hair, e.g., to improve the strength, luster, shine, and / or elasticity of the hair, etc.
[0027] The hair treatment compositions of the present case are particularly advantageous because they can be a stand-alone product (used independently) or can be used in methods that combine the hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure with a separate hair treatment composition for chemically treating hair (i.e., a hair treatment composition comprising one or more chemically active agents that chemically treat hair). Non-limiting examples of hair treatment compositions for chemically treating hair include bleaching compositions, hair straightening or curling compositions, hair relaxing or texlaxing compositions, and the like. The hair treatment compositions of the present invention can be combined with (added to) one or more components of a hair treatment composition for chemically treating hair.For example, if the hair treatment composition for chemically treating hair is a bleaching composition, the hair treatment compositions of the present invention may be added to a developer component, may be added to a bleaching component, or may be combined with a mixture of the developer component and the bleaching component. Similarly, hair styling compositions (for perming, straightening, and / or smoothing hair) often require more than one component (e.g., a relaxer component, an activator component, a neutralizer component, etc.). The hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure may include one or more (or all) of these components.
[0028] As above, the hair treatment compositions of the instant disclosure may be used as a stand-alone product in a hair cleansing (shampooing) and optional conditioning routine, or may be combined with (added into) a hair cleanser (shampoo), a conditioner, or added into both a hair cleanser and a hair conditioner.
[0029] Other features and iterations of the present disclosure and its various inventions are described in more detail below. Brief description of the drawings
[0030] The implementation of the present technology will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the attached figures, in which:
[0031] [Fig-1] [Fig.l] is a schematic stress-strain curve for dry hair identifying Young's modulus, plateau stress, breaking force and elongation at break;
[0032] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] shows the results of the breaking stress (gmf / square micron) for treated European medium brown hair;
[0033] [Fig.3] [Fig.3] shows the Young's modulus results for hair treated medium brown Europeans;
[0034] [Fig.4] [Fig.4] shows the elongation results (% strain) for treated medium brown European hair;
[0035] [Fig.5] [Fig.5] shows the results of the breaking stress (gmf / square micron) for curly multi-ethnic brown treated hair;
[0036] [Fig.6] [Fig.6] shows the Young's modulus results for brown hair curly treated multiethnic;
[0037] [Fig.7] [Fig.7] shows the results of elongation at break (% of de training) for treated curly multi-ethnic brown hair; and
[0038] [Fig.8] [Fig.8] shows the results obtained during cyclic fatigue tests in traction (cycles before breakage) for hair treated with a control compared to hair treated with a composition described herein.
[0039] It should be understood that the various aspects are not limited to the arrangements and instrumentalities shown in the drawings. detailed description of the disclosure
[0040] The present disclosure relates to hair treatment compositions and methods of treating hair or body hair, particularly human hair. The hair treatment compositions and methods strengthen hair, minimize and / or mitigate damage to hair, particularly chemically treated hair, and prevent or reduce the susceptibility of hair to damage. Thus, the hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure may be referred to as "hair restructuring compositions." Hair treated with the hair treatment compositions (or hair restructuring compositions) exhibits improved and desirable cosmetic properties such as softness, shine, improved combability, and improved strength and elasticity. (a) Citric acid and its salts
[0041] Citric acid is an organic compound with the chemical formula HOC(CO2 H)(CH2CO2H)2. When part of a salt, the formula of the citrate anion is written as C6 H5O3 7 or C3H5O(COO)3 \ Non-limiting examples of citric acid salts include sodium citrate, sodium citrate tribasic, citric acid trisodium salt, trisodium citrate, sodium citrate dihydrate, sodium citrate tribasic dihydrate, citric acid trisodium salt dihydrate, trisodium citrate dihydrate, potassium citrate, tripotassium citrate, potassium citrate tribasic, citric acid tripotassium salt, potassium citrate monohydrate, tripotassium citrate monohydrate, potassium citrate tribasic monohydrate, citric acid tripotassium salt monohydrate, citric acid disodium salt, citric acid disodium salt sesquihydrate, sodium hydrogen citrate, sodium hydrogen citrate sesquihydrate, disodium hydrogen citrate, disodium hydrogen citrate sesquihydrate, dibasic sodium citrate, dibasic sodium citrate sesquihydrate, monobasic potassium citrate, potassium dihydrogen citrate, monopotassium salt of citric acid, monobasic sodium citrate, sodium dihydrogen citrate, monosodium salt of citric acid, and the like. In a preferred embodiment, the citric acid salts include sodium citrate (monosodium citrate, disodium citrate and / or trisodium citrate), potassium citrate (also known as tri-potassium citrate) and combinations thereof.
[0042] The total amount of citric acid, one or more citric acid salts, or a combination of citric acid and one or more citric acid salts may vary. For the purposes of the present disclosure, the weight percentage for the combination of citric acid and citric acid salts includes citric acid, the citrate anion, and the cation of the salt, which can be dissociated from the citrate anion. The salts of citric acid are soluble in water and therefore reversibly dissociate into electrolytes.The total amount of citric acid, one or more citric acid salts, or a combination of citric acid and one or more citric acid salts may be from about 0.25 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.25 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.25 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.25 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.25 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, including any intermediate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. As already noted, when a combination of citric acid and one or more citric acid salts is present, the weight ratio of citric acid to citric acid salts added to form the combination is from 1:10 to about 10:1.
[0043] In some embodiments, the composition includes a combination of citric acid and one or more citric acid salts. When a combination of citric acid and one or more citric acid salts is present, the weight ratio of citric acid to citric acid salts added to form the combination is from 1:10 to about 10:1. The total amount of the combination of citric acid and citric acid salts varies. As used herein, the weight percentage for the combination of citric acid and citric acid salts includes the citric acid, the citrate anion, and the cation of the salt, which can be dissociated from the citrate anion. The citric acid salts are soluble in water and therefore reversibly dissociate into electrolytes.In various embodiments, the total amount of the combination of citric acid and citric acid salts (citric acid, citrate anions and salt cations) is from about 1 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions. hair treatment. In other embodiments, the total amount of the combination of citric acid and citric acid salts is from about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 6 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 1 to about 4 wt%, about 1.3 to about 10 wt%, about 1.3 to about 8 wt%, about 1.3 to about 6 wt%, about 1.3 to about 5 wt%, about 1.3 to about 4 wt%, about 1.5 to about 10 wt%, about 1.5 to about 8 wt%, about 1.5 to about 6 wt%, about 1.5 to about 5 wt%, about 1.5 to about 4 wt%, about 1.8 to about 10 wt%, about 1.8 to about 8 wt%, about 1.8 to about 6 wt% % by weight, about 1.8 and about 5% by weight, about 1.8 and about 4% by weight, about 1.9 and about 10% by weight, about 1.9 and about 8% by weight, about 1.9 and about 6% by weight, about 1,9 and about 5% by weight, about 1.9 and about 4% by weight, about 2 and about 10% by weight, about 2 and about 8% by weight, about 2 and about 6% by weight, about 2 and about 5% by weight, or about 2 and about 4% by weight, or about 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1 or 2.2% by weight, including any intermediate combination, subcombination, range or subrange by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. Ratio of citric acid to its salts
[0044] When a combination of citric acid and one or more citric acid salts is present, the weight ratio of citric acid to citric acid salts added in the cosmetic composition will vary. However, in various embodiments, the weight ratio of citric acid to citric acid salts added in the cosmetic composition is between about 1:10 and about 10:1. In other embodiments, the weight ratio of citric acid to citric acid salts added in the cosmetic composition is from about 1:9 to about 9:1, from about 1:8 to about 8:1, from about 1:7 to about 7:1, from about 1:6 to about 6:1, from about 1:5 to about 5:1, from about 1:4 to about 4:1, from about 1:3 to about 3:1, from about 1:2 to about 2:1, from about 1:1 to about 2 ...8:1 to about 1:1.8, about 1.6:1 to about 1:1.6, about 1.5:1 to about 1:1.5, or about 2:1, about 1.8:1, about 1.7:1, about 1.6:1, about 1.5:1, about 1.4:1, about 1.3:1, about 1.2:1, or about 1.1:1, including any combination, subcombination, range, or subrange therein. In still other embodiments, the weight ratio of citric acid to citric acid salts added in the cosmetic composition is greater than 1:1, i.e., the amount of citric acid added in the cosmetic composition is greater than the amount of citric acid salt(s) added in the hair treatment composition. For example, in some embodiments, the ratio is greater than 1:1 at about 10:1, about 8:1, about 6:1, about 5:1, about 4:1, about 3:1, or about 2:1. (b) Surfactants
[0045] The hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure include one or more surfactants, for example, one or more surfactants selected from cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants (or zwitterionic surfactants), and anionic surfactants. In various embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include at least one cationic surfactant. For example, the hair treatment compositions may include at least one cationic surfactant and optionally, one or more additional surfactants selected from nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and anionic surfactants. Preferably, however, when the hair treatment composition includes at least one cationic surfactant, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of anionic surfactants.Accordingly, according to various embodiments, the hair treatment composition comprises at least one cationic surfactant and optionally, one or more additional surfactants selected from non-ionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and a combination thereof.
[0046] The total amount of all surfactants (cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, and anionic surfactants) in the hair treatment composition will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of all surfactants in the hair treatment composition is from about 1 to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of all surfactants in the hair treatment composition is about 1 to about 12 wt. %, about 1 to about 10 wt. %, about 1 to about 8 wt. %, about 2 to about 15 wt. %, about 2 to about 12 wt. %, about 2 to about 10 wt. %, about 2 to about 8 wt. %, about 3 to about 15 wt. %, about 3 to about 12 wt. %, about 3 to about 10 wt. %, about 3 to about 10 wt.from about 3 to about 10 wt. %, from about 3 to about 15 wt. %, from about 3 to about 10 wt. %, from about 3 to about 10 wt. %, from about 3 to about 10 wt. %, from about 3 to about 4 wt. %, from about 3 to about 4 wt. %, from about 3 to about 12 wt. %, from about 3 to about 10 wt. %, from about 3 to about 8 wt. %, from about 4 to about 15 wt. %, from about 4.5 to about 12 wt. %, from about 4.5 to about 10 wt. %, from about 4.5 to about 8 wt. %, or from about 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9, 5, 5.1 wt. %, including any intermediate combination, subcombination, range or subrange by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment composition. , (i) Cationic surfactants
[0047] The term "cationic surfactant" as defined by the present disclosure is a surfactant that can be positively charged when contained in the hair treatment compositions according to the disclosure. The cationic surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more functional groups that are cationizable in the composition according to the disclosure.
[0048] In a preferred embodiment, at least one of the one or more surfactants (b) is a cationic surfactant. Preferably, the hair treatment compositions include one or more cationic surfactants and one or more surfactants selected from nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and a combination thereof.
[0049] Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyl-dimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-pro-pyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethylidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0050] In some cases, the cationic surfactant is preferably selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propylidiethylamine, arachidamidoethylidiethylamine, arachi-damidoethylidimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0051] In some cases, the cationic surfactants are more preferably selected from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, and a mixture thereof.
[0052] Further, in some cases, the cationic surfactant is preferably cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, or a mixture thereof.
[0053] In some embodiments, the cationic surfactant is selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearami-dopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propylidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachi-damidoethyidimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0054] In some embodiments, the cationic surfactant comprises cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. Behentrimonium chloride, also described by technical names that include 1-Docosanaminium, N,N,N-Trimethyl-, chloride and N,N,N-Trimethyl-1-Docosanaminium chloride, is the quaternary ammonium salt that has the formula:
[0055] Other non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, laurkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetrimonium chloride, ethylamine hydrofluoride, chloral-lylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quatemium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride (Quaternium-14), Quatemium-22 hectorite, Quatemium-26, Quatemium-18, dimethylaminoethyl chloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, POE (10) diethanolammonium oleyl ether phosphate, POE (3) diethanolammonium oleyl ether phosphate diethanolammonium, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammoniumbentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphene bromide, denatonium benzoate, myris-talkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCl,iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, chloride, oleyltrimonium, polyquaternium-1, procaine hydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkonium hectonite, stearyl trihydroxyethylpropylenediamine dihydrofluoride, tallowtrimonium chloride and bromide of hexadec y Itrimethyl ammonium.
[0056] The cationic surfactant(s) may also be chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0057] In some cases it is useful to use salts such as the chloride salts of quaternary ammonium compounds.
[0058] Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C3q hydrocarbon chain.
[0059] As examples of quaternary ammonium salts which may in particular be cited, we can include: those corresponding to the general formula below:
[0060] in which the groups R8 to Ru, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Ru denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and, in certain embodiments, from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are selected, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C2-C30 alkenyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6 alkylene), C1-C30 alkylamide, (C1-C22 alkylamido)(C2-C6 alkyl), C1-C22 alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl; X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, C1-C4 alkylsulfates and C1-C4 alkylarylsulfonates.
[0061] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III), preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts ammonium, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium and stearamidopropyldimethylstea-rylammonium.
[0062] Also useful are imidazoline quaternary ammonium salts, such as, for example, those of the formula below:
[0063] wherein Rn represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Ru represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups, in certain embodiments, comprise from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms respectively.Rn and Rn, in some embodiments, denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, RM, in some embodiments, denotes a methyl group, and R[5, in some embodiments, denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name REWOQUAT W 75 by the company Rewo. .
[0064] Useful quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts include those of formula: R|7 R] 9 R j £ N ■ ( ÇII2 M R21 RiS R20
[0065] in which Ri6 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R[7 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH2)3, Ri6a, Rna, Risa, Ris, Ri% R20 and R2i, identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75).
[0066] Useful cationic / cationizable surfactants, including cationic surfactants nizable in conjunction with an acid neutralizer, include those of general structure R4-A-R5-B in which R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, R5 is a linear or branched alkyl chain having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, A is selected from:
[0067] and B is chosen from
[0068] where R6 and R7, identical or different, are H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, and
[0069] where R8 and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain of 1 to 4 carbon atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain of 2 to 4 carbon atoms, R10 is an alkyl chain of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain of 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a dihydroxylalkyl chain of 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0070] In some cases, R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain. with 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in some embodiments 12 to 22 carbon atoms and R5 is a straight or branched alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and A, B, R6 to R10 are the same as above.
[0071] Des exemples convenables non limitatifs sont stéaryloxypropylamine, palmityloxy-propylamine, stéaryloxypropyldiméthylamine, stéaryloxypropyldiéthylamine, stéary-loxyéthyldiméthylamine, stéaryloxyéthylamine, myristyloxypropylamine, myristyloxy-propyldiméthylamine, palmitamidopropylamine, palmitamidopropyl méthylamine, pal-mitamidopropyl diéthylamine, palmitamidopropyl dibutylamine, palmitamidopropyl buylamine, palmitamidopropyl dipropylamine, palmitamidopropyl propylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxyéthylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxyéthylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, laura-midopropylamine, lauramidopropyl méthylamine, lauramidopropyl diéthylamine, lau-ramidopropyl dibutylamine, lauramidopropyl buylamine, lauramidopropyl dipropylamine, lauramidopropyl propylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxyéthylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxyéthylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine,stearamidopropyl amine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, stearamidopropyldibutylamine, stearamidopropyl butylamine, stearamidopropyl dipropylamine, behenamidopropyl propylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl amine, behenamidopropyl methylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidopropyl dibutylamine, behenamidopropyl butylamine, behenamidopropyl dipropylamine, behenamidopropyl propylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl methylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl ethylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl butylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl propylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dilauramidopropyl amine, dilaurami-dopropyl methylamine,dilauramidopropyl buylamine, dilauramidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, dilauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, distearamidopropyl amine, distea-ramidopropyl methylamine, dibehenamidopropyl propylamine, dibehenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitoamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride, behenamidopropyl tri hydroxyethylmonium chloride, distearylamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dice-tylamidodihydroxyethyl ammonium chloride, palmitoylpropyl amine, palmitoylpropyl methylamine, palmitoylpropyl diethylamine, palmitoylpropyl dibutylamine, palmitoylpropyl buylamine, palmitoylpropyl dipropylamine, palmitoylpropyl propylamine, palmitoylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmi- , toylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, myris-toylpropyl amine, myristoylpropyl méthylamine, myristoylpropyl diéthylamine, myris-toylpropyl dibutylamine, myristoylpropyl buylamine, myristoylpropyl dipropylamine, myristoylpropyl propylamine, myristoylpropyl dihydroxyéthylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxyéthylamine, myristoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, stéaroylpropylamine, stéaroylpropyl méthylamine, stéaroylpropyl diéthylamine, stéaroylpropyl dibutylamine, stéaroylpropyl butylamine, stéaroylpropyl dipropylamine, béhénylpropyl propylamine, béhénylpropyl dihydroxyéthylamine, bé-hénylpropyl hydroxyéthylamine, béhénylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, béhénylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, béhénylpropyl amine, béhénylpropyl méthylamine, béhénylpropyl diéthylamine, béhénylpropyl dibutylamine, béhénylpropyl butylamine, béhénylpropyl dipropylamine, béhénylpropyl propylamine, béhénylpropyl dihydroxye-thylamine, béhénylpropyl hydroxyéthylamine,behenylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl methylamine, dipalmi-toylpropyl ethylamine, dipalmitylpropyl butylamine, dipalmitylpropyl propylamine, di-palmitylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, dipalmitylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, dilau-roylpropyl amine, dilauroylpropyl methylamine, dilauroylpropyl buylamine, dilau-roylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, dilauroylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, distearylpropyl amine, distearylpropyl methylamine, dibehenylpropyl propylamine, dibehenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitylpropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stea-rylpropyl-trimethylammonium chloride, behenylpropyl-trihydroethalmonium chloride, distearylpropyl-dimethylammonium chloride, dicetyldihydroxyethylammonium chloride, methosulfate dioleoylethylhydroxyethylmonium and di-cocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
[0072] The cationizable surfactants may be selected from fatty alkylamines and fatty dialkylamines. In some cases, the fatty dialkylamines may be fatty dimethylamines. Non-limiting examples include dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl tallowamine, dimethyl sojaamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0073] Fatty dialkylamines include fatty amidoamines, their salts and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, lino-leamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenami-doethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-pro-pyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristami- dipropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine and palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0074] Non-polymeric mono-, di- and / or tri-carboxylic acids may be used to "neutralize" the fatty dialkylamines. In some cases, the non-polymeric, mono-, di- and / or tri-carboxylic acid(s) include at least one dicarboxylic acid. Non-limiting examples include lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, benzoic acid and mixtures thereof. In particular, lactic acid or tartaric acid or mixtures thereof are useful, especially in combination with fatty dimethylamines such as, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0075] The total amount of one or more cationic surfactants is variable. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more cationic surfactants is between about 1 and about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.In other embodiments, the total amount of one or more cationic surfactants is about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 6 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 8 wt%, about 2 to about 6 wt%, about 3 to about 10 wt%, about 3 to about 8 wt%, or about 3 to about 6 wt%, about 3.5 to about 10 wt%, about 3.5 to about 8 wt%, about 3.5 to about 6 wt%, about 3.8, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.5, 4.6, 4.8, 5, 5.2, including any intermediate combination, subcombination, range or subrange by weight, relative to to the total weight of the hair treatment composition. (ii) Non-ionic surfactants
[0076] In various embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include one or more nonionic surfactants. The nonionic surfactants may be useful for enhancing emulsification. Therefore, the nonionic surfactants may also be referred to as nonionic emulsifiers. For example, the nonionic surfactants include surfactants / emulsifiers that are useful for forming an emulsion, e.g., oil-in-water emulsions and vice versa. Non-limiting examples of nonionic surfactants include alkyl polyglucosides; alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols, and ethoxylated, propoxylated, or glycerolated fatty acid esters (polyglyceryl-2 isostearate); ethoxylated fatty esters; glycerol esters of fatty acids; ethoxylates of fatty alcohols; alkylphenol ethoxylates; fatty acid alkoxylates; and mixtures thereof.
[0077] Non-limiting examples of polyglycerolated fatty acid esters include laurate polyglyceryl-2, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate; polyglyceryl-2 myristate, polyglyceryl-3 myristate, polyglyceryl-4 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-6 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate; polyglyceryl-2 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-6 palmitate, polyglyceryl-10 palmitate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate; polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-8 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate is particularly useful.
[0078] The non-ionic surfactants / emulsifiers may be chosen from alcohols and alpha-diols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups being able to range from 2 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups being able to range from 2 to 30; these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0079] Mention is also made of polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, such as oxyethylenated vegetable oils.
[0080] Useful nonionic surfactants include those of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented in particular by the following general formula: RiO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which: Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl substituent comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an al-kylphenyl substituent whose linear or branched alkyl substituent comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; R2 represents an alkylene substituent comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms; G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4; and v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of formula described above in which: R 1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl substituent comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms; R 2 represents an alkylene substituent comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and from . preferably equal to 0; and G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, can range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2. The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of the 1-4 type. In particular, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant may be a 1,4-alkyl(C8 / C16)(poly)glucoside surfactant, and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides.
[0081] Useful nonionic surfactants may be selected from polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters of sorbitan, polyethoxylated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty alcohols, polyglycerolated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylenated compounds preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated compounds preferably having from 2 to 16 moles of glycerol; and mixtures thereof.
[0082] The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols may be chosen from C12-C18 fatty alcohols, in particular polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, such as: polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 2 EO (Ceteth-2) (HLB 5.3) polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 6 EO (Ceteth-6) (HLB 11.1) polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 10 EO (Ceteth-10) (HLB 12.9) polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 20 EO (Ceteth-20) (HLB 15.7) polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 24 EO (Ceteth-24) (HLB 16.3) polyoxyethylene lauryl alcohol with 2 EO (Laureth-2) (HLB 6.1) polyoxyethylene lauryl alcohol with 3 EO (Laureth-3) (HLB 8) polyoxyethylene lauryl alcohol with 4 EO (Laureth-4) (HLB 9.4) polyoxyethylene lauryl alcohol with 7 EO (Laureth-7) (HLB 12.3) polyoxyethylene lauryl alcohol with 9 EO (Laureth-9) (HLB 13.6) polyoxyethylene lauryl alcohol with 10 EO (Laureth-10) (HLB 13.9) polyoxyethylene lauryl alcohol with 12 EO (Laureth-12) (HLB 14.6) polyoxyethylene lauryl alcohol with 21 EO (Laureth-21) (HLB 15.5) polyoxyethylene lauryl alcohol with 23 EO (Laureth-23) (HLB 16.3) polyoxyethylene stearyl alcohol with 2 EO (Steareth-2) (HLB 4.9) polyoxyethylene stearyl alcohol with 10 EO (Steareth-10) (HLB 12.4) polyoxyethylene stearyl alcohol with 20 EO (Steareth-20) (HLB 15.2) polyoxyethylene stearyl alcohol with 21 EO (Steareth-21) (HLB 15.5).
[0083] The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters (preferably C12-C18) of sorbitan may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated C12-C18 fatty acid esters, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl or stearic acids, of sorbitan containing in particular from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as: polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (Polysorbate-21) (HLB 13.3) polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-20) (HLB 16.7) monopalmitate of polyoxyethylene sorbitan (20 EO) (Polysorbate-40) (HLB 15.6) polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-60) (HLB 14.9) polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (Polysorbate-61) (HLB 9.6) polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-80) (HLB 15). In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment compositions include one or more non-ionic surfactants selected from polyoxyethylene C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably polyoxyethylene C12-C18 fatty acid esters.
[0084] The particularly preferred polyglycerolated C8-C30 fatty acid esters may be chosen from polyglycerolated C12-C18 fatty acid esters, in particular lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic or isostearic acids, having from 2 to 16 mol of glycerol, such as: polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate; polyglyceryl-2 myristate, polyglyceryl-3 myristate, polyglyceryl-4 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-6 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate; polyglyceryl-2 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-6 palmitate, polyglyceryl-10 palmitate; polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate;polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-8 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof. ;
[0085] In certain cases, the non-ionic surfactant may be chosen from polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of one or more C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acids, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of one or more C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acids and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides of 10 to 200, and more preferably of 10 to 100;sorbitol esters of one or more C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acids and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides of 10 to 200, and more preferably of 10 to 100; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) of one or more C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acids and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides of 10 to 200, and more preferably of 10 to 100; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of one or more C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty alcohols; and mixtures thereof.
[0086] Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO (under the CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
[0087] As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, mention is made of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof.
[0088] As glyceryl esters of C8-C24 alkoxylated fatty acids, mention may be made, for example, of polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate.
[0089] Mixtures of these surfactants, such as for example the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEG1N by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE), may also be used.
[0090] Alkylpolyglucosides are a class of useful nonionic surfactants. Non-limiting examples of alkylpolyglucosides include alkylpolyglucosides having the following formula:
[0091] R1-O-(R2O)nZ(x)
[0092] wherein R1 is an alkyl group having 8-18 carbon atoms;
[0093] R2 is an ethylene or propylene group;
[0094] Z is a saccharide group having 5 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0095] n is an integer from 0 to 10; and
[0096] x is an integer from 1 to 5.
[0097] Useful alkyl polyglucosides include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, sucrose laurate, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, and mixtures thereof. Typically, the at least one alkyl polyglucoside compound is selected from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, and coco glucoside, and more typically lauryl glucoside.
[0098] The total amount of nonionic surfactant, if present, will vary. However, when present, the total amount of nonionic surfactants is from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of one or more nonionic surfactants is from about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 2% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, including any intermediate combination, subcombination, range or subrange by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. (iii) Amphoteric surfactants
[0099] Non-limiting examples of useful amphoteric surfactants include betaines, alkyl sultaines, alkyl amphoacetates, alkyl amphoproprionates, and mixtures thereof, as set forth below. In certain embodiments, betaines are particularly useful. (iii-a) Betaines
[0100] Useful betaines include those of the following formulae (XlIIa-XIIId):
[0101] (XlIIa) WHERE““CH2~“OH .R (,; jj,. —« CJ-L ““ N” ““GH^COO He I “ I Oh HH
[0102] (XlIIb) The ... I
[0103] (XIIIc) Eye R lo CN ( Ç Hj )H Nr ™" Ol^ COO' O H. CH
[0104] (XlIId)
[0105] in which RiO is an alkyl group having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms; and n is an integer from 1 to 3.
[0106] Particularly useful betaines include, for example, coco betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxy sulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, and mixtures thereof. Typically, at least one betaine compound is selected from coco betaine, behenyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred betaines include coco betaine and cocamidopropyl betaine. (iii-b) Alkyl sultaines
[0107] Non-limiting examples of alkyl sultaines include hydroxyl sultaines of formula (XIV) o ch3 RC— NHCCHi.):»—N4—CHiCHCH^SO^f CH3 OH
[0108] (XIV)
[0109] wherein R is an alkyl group having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. More specific examples include, but are not limited to, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, and a mixture thereof.
[0110] (iii-c) Alkyl amph oacetates and alkyl amph odiacetates
[0111] Non-limiting examples of alkyl amphoacetates and alkyl amphodiacetates include those of formula (XV) and (XVI): OH OH
[0112]
[0113]
[0114]
[0115]
[0116] (XVI) in which R is an alkyl group having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Sodium is shown as the cation in the above formulae but the cation may be an alkali metal ion such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions. A more specific, but not limiting, example is sodium lauroamphoacetate, (iii-d) Alkyl amphopropionates Non-limiting examples of amphopropionates include cocoamphopropionate, caprylamphopropionate, cornamphopropionate, caproamphopropionate, oleoamphopropionate, isostearoamphopropionate, stearoamphopropionate, lau-roamphopropionate, their salts and a mixture thereof. The total amount of amphoteric surfactants in the hair treatment compositions, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the amphoteric surfactant(s) in the hair treatment compositions is from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of the amphoteric surfactant(s) is from about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight. % by weight, about 0.01 to about 2% by weight, about 0.01 to about 1% by weight, about 0.05 to about 10% by weight, about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, about 0.05 to about 2% by weight, about 0.05 to about 1% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, including any intermediate combination, subcombination, range or subrange by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. (iv) Anionic surfactants
[0117] In various embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include one or more anionic surfactants. However, in other embodiments, the hair treatment compositions are free or essentially free of anionic surfactants, for example, in some embodiments, the hair treatment compositions comprise less than 5% by weight, less than 4% by weight, less than 3% by weight, less than 2% by weight, less than 1% by weight, less than 0.5% by weight, less than 0.1% by weight of one or more anionic surfactants.
[0118] The anionic surfactants may be sulfate-based or non-sulfate-based. Non-limiting examples of sulfate-based anionic surfactants include alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates. Non-limiting examples of non-sulfate-based anionic surfactants include alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl isethionates, alkoxylated monobasic acids, acyl amino acids such as acyl taurates, acyl glycinates, acyl glutamates, acyl sar-cosinates, their salts, and a mixture thereof.
[0119] Useful alkyl sulfates include Cx18 alkyl sulfates, more preferably C12-18 alkyl sulfates, preferably in the form of a salt with a solubilizing cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium. Examples are sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS). Useful alkyl ether sulfates include those having the formula: RO(CH2 CH2O)nSO3M; where R is an alkyl or alkenyl having from 8 to 18 (preferably 12 to 18) carbon atoms; n is a number having an average value greater than at least 0.5, preferably between 1 and 3, more preferably between 2 and 3; and M is a solubilizing cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium. An example is sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES).
[0120] In some instances, useful alkyl sulfate salts and alkyl ether sulfate salts include those having the formulas (I and II):
[0121] (I)
[0122] (II)
[0123] in which, R is an alkyl chain having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms;
[0124] M is a solubilizing cation such as alkali metal ions such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions; and
[0125] n is an integer from 0 to 3.
[0126] As already noted, non-limiting examples of non-sulfate anionic surfactants include alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl isethionates, alkoxylated monobasic acids, acyl amino acids such as acyl taurates, acyl glycinates, acyl glutamates, acyl sarcosinates, their salts and a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of various types of non-sulfate anionic surfactants are provided below.
[0127] Alkyl sulfonates
[0128] Useful alkyl sulfonates include alkylaryl sulfonates, primary alkane di-sulfonates, alkene sulfonates, hydroxyalkane sulfonates, alkylglyceryl ether sulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, alkylphenolpolyglycol ether sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, phenylalkane sulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkene sulfonates, hydroxyalkane sulfonates and di-sulfonates, secondary alkane sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, ester sulfonates, sulfonated fatty acid glycerol esters, and alpha-sulfo fatty acid methyl esters including methyl ester sulfonate.
[0129] In some cases, an alkyl sulfonate of formula (III) is particularly useful.
[0130] (III)
[0131] R is selected from H or an alkyl chain which has 1-24 carbon atoms, preferably 6-24 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 20 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. Sodium is shown as the cation in formula (III) above but the cation may be an alkali metal ion such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions. In some cases, the alkylsulfonate(s) are selected from C8-C16 benzene alkylsulfonates, C10-C20 paraffin sulfonates, C10-C24 olefin sulfonates, their salts and mixtures thereof. C10-C24 olefin sulfonates are particularly preferred. A non-limiting but particularly useful example of a C10-C24 olefin sulfonate that can be used in instant compositions is sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate.
[0132] Alkyl sulfosuccinates
[0133] Non-limiting examples of useful sulfosuccinates include those of formula (IV): SQ^NT O R11111111111? O ”iini LH ■■ 1 À-»111111 i_. li ““““'O ^4. - ü O
[0134] (IV)
[0135] wherein R is a straight or branched chain alkyl or alkenyl group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, X is a number which represents the average degree of ethoxylation and which may range from 0 to about 5, preferably from 0 to about 4, and more preferably from about 2 to about 3.5, and M and M' are monovalent cations which may be the same or different from each other. Preferred cations are alkali metal ions such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions.
[0136] Non-limiting examples of alkyl sulfosuccinate salts include disodium MIPA oleamido sulfosuccinate, disodium MEA oleamido sulfosuccinate, lauryl sulfo-
[0137]
[0138]
[0139]
[0140] disodium succinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, diammonium laureth sulfosuccinate, dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium oleamide MEA sulfosuccinate, sodium dialkyl sulfosuccinate, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate is particularly preferred. Alkyl sulfoacetates Non-limiting examples of alkyl sulfoacetates include, for example, alkyl sulfoacetates such as C4-C18 fatty alcohol sulfoacetates and / or salts thereof. A particularly preferred sulfoacetate salt is sodium lauryl sulfoacetate. Useful cations for the salts include alkali metal ions such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions. Acyl isethionates Non-limiting examples of useful acyl isethionates include those of formula (V) and (VI):
[0141]
[0142]
[0143]
[0144]
[0145] (VI) wherein R, R1, R2 and R3 are each independently selected from H or an alkyl chain having 1-24 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched, and X is COO or SO3. Sodium is shown as the cation in formula (VI) but the cation for formula (V) and formula (VI) may be an alkali metal ion such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions. Non-limiting examples of acyl isethionates include sodium isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate and sodium cocoyl methyl isethionate. Alkoxylated monobasic acids Non-limiting examples of alkoxylated monobasic acids include the compounds cor- corresponding to formula (VII):
[0146] RO[CH2O]u[(CH2)xCH(R')(CH2)y(CH2)zO]v[CH2CH2O]wCH2COOH
[0147] (VII)
[0148] in which:
[0149] R is a hydrocarbon radical containing from about 6 to about 40 carbon atoms;
[0150] u, v and w, independently of each other, represent numbers from 0 to 60;
[0151] x, y and z, independently of each other, represent numbers from 0 to 13;
[0152] R' represents hydrogen, alkyl, and
[0153] the sum of x+y+z > 0;
[0154] Compounds corresponding to formula (VII) can be obtained by alkoxylation of alcohols ROH with ethylene oxide as the sole alkoxide or with several alkoxides and subsequent oxidation. The numbers u, v and w each represent the degree of alkoxylation. While at the molecular level the numbers u, v and w and the total degree of alkoxylation can only be whole numbers, including zero, at the macroscopic level they are average values in the form of fractional numbers.
[0155] In formula (VII), R is linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted. Typically, R is a linear or branched, acyclic C6-40 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C1-40 alkylphenyl group, more typically a C8-22 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C4-18 alkylphenyl group, and even more typically a C12-18 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C6-16 alkylphenyl group; u, v, w, independently of each other, is typically a number from 2 to 20, more typically a number from 3 to 17 and most typically a number from 5 to 15; x, y, z, independently of each other, is typically a number from 2 to 13, more typically a number from 1 to 10 and most typically a number from 0 to 8.
[0156] Suitable alkoxylated monobasic acids include, but are not limited to: butoxynol-5 carboxylic acid, butoxynol-19 carboxylic acid, capryleth-4 carboxylic acid, capryleth-6 carboxylic acid, capryleth-9 carboxylic acid, ceteareth-25 carboxylic acid, coceth-7 carboxylic acid, C9-11 pareth-6 carboxylic acid, C11-15 pareth-7 carboxylic acid, C12-13 pareth-5 carboxylic acid, C12-13 pareth-8 carboxylic acid, C12-13 pareth-12 carboxylic acid, C12-15 pareth-7 carboxylic acid, C12-15 pareth-8 carboxylic acid, C14-15 pareth-8 carboxylic acid, deceth-7 carboxylic acid, laureth-3 carboxylic acid, laureth-4 carboxylic acid, laureth-5 carboxylic acid, laureth-6 carboxylic acid, laureth-8 carboxylic acid, laureth-10 carboxylic acid, laureth-11 carboxylic acid, laureth-12 carboxylic acid, laureth-13 carboxylic acid, laureth-14 carboxylic acid, laureth-17 carboxylic acid, PPG-6-laureth-6 carboxylic acid, PPG-8- 。Steareth-7 carboxylic acid, Myreth-3 carboxylic acid, Myreth-5 carboxylic acid, Nonoxynol-5 carboxylic acid, Nonoxynol-8 carboxylic acid, Nonoxynol-10 carboxylic acid, Octeth-3 carboxylic acid, Octoxynol-20 carboxylic acid, Oleth-3 carboxylic acid, Oleth-6 carboxylic acid, Oleth-10 carboxylic acid, PPG-3-deceth-2 carboxylic acid, Capryleth-2 carboxylic acid, Ceteth-13 carboxylic acid, Deceth-2 carboxylic acid, Hexeth-4 carboxylic acid, Isosteareth-6 carboxylic acid, Isosteareth-11 carboxylic acid, Trideceth-3 carboxylic acid, Trideceth-6 carboxylic acid, Trideceth-8 carboxylic acid, Trideceth-12 acid carboxylic acid, trideceth-3 carboxylic acid, trideceth-4 carboxylic acid, trideceth-7 carboxylic acid, trideceth-15 carboxylic acid, trideceth-19 carboxylic acid, undeceth-5 carboxylic acid and mixtures thereof.In some cases, preferred ethoxylated acids include oleth-10 carboxylic acid, laureth-5 carboxylic acid, laureth-11 carboxylic acid, and a mixture thereof.
[0157] Acyl amino acids
[0158] Acyl amino acids that may be used include, but are not limited to, surfactants based on alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, threonine, and taurine. The most common cation associated with the acyl amino acid may be sodium or potassium. Alternatively, the cation may be an organic salt such as triethanolamine (TEA) or a metal salt. Non-limiting examples of useful acyl amino acids include those of formula (VIII): O R.2 R3 RN (. H """""" ( CX
[0159] (VIII)
[0160] wherein R, R1, R2 and R3 are each independently selected from H or an alkyl chain having 1-24 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and X is COO or SO3.
[0161] Acyl taurates: Non-limiting examples of acyl taurates include those of formula (IX):
[0162] (IX)
[0163] wherein R, R1, R2 and R3 are each independently selected from H or an alkyl chain having 1-24 carbon atoms, or 6-20 carbon atoms, or 8 to 16 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched, and X is COO- or SO3. Non-limiting examples of acyl taurate salts include sodium cocoyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.
[0164] Acyl glycinates: Non-limiting examples of useful acyl glycinates include those of formula (X): RC—NHCILCOONa
[0165] (X)
[0166] wherein R is an alkyl chain of 8 to 16 carbon atoms. Sodium is shown as the cation in formula (X) above but the cation may be an alkali metal ion such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions. Non-limiting examples of acyl glycinates include sodium cocoylglycinate, sodium lauroylglycinate, sodium myristoylglycinate, potassium lauroylglycinate and potassium cocoylglycinate, and in particular sodium cocoylglycinate.
[0167] Acyl glutamates: Non-limiting examples of useful acyl glutamates include those of formula (XI): O RC—NH HOOCCH^CH^CHCOONa
[0168] (XI)
[0169] in which R is an alkyl chain of 8 to 16 carbon atoms. Sodium is shown as the cation in formula (XI) above but the cation can be an ionof alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions. Non-limiting examples of acyl glutamates include dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, lauroyl potassium glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, mono-cocoyl glutamate of triethanolamine, lauroyl triethanolamine glutamate and disodium cocoyl glutamate.In some cases, sodium stearoyl glutamate is particularly preferred.
[0170] Acyl sarcosinates: Non-limiting examples of acyl sarcosinates include potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate and lauroyl sarcosinate ammonium.
[0171] The total amount of one or more anionic surfactants, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more anionic surfactants is from about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of one or more anionic surfactants is about 0.01 to about 10 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 8 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 5 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 3 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 1 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 0.5 wt. %, about 0.05 to about 15 wt. %, about 0.05 to about 10 wt. %, about 0.05 to about 8 wt. %, about 0.05 to about 5 wt. %, about 0.05 to about 10 wt. %, about 0.05 to about 1 ...05 to about 3% by weight, about 0.05 to about 1% by weight, about 0.05 to about 0.5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, including any intermediate combination, subcombination, range or subrange by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. (c) Water
[0172] The total amount of water in the hair treatment compositions can and will vary depending on the amount of other components in the hair treatment compositions. hair treatment. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of water in the hair treatment composition is between about 50 and about 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of water is from about 50 to about 85% by weight, about 50 to about 80% by weight, about 55 to about 90% by weight, about 55 to 85% by weight, about 55 to about 80% by weight, about 60 to about 90% by weight, about 60 to 85% by weight, about 60 to about 80% by weight, about 65 to about 90% by weight, about 65 to about 85% by weight, about 65 to about 80% by weight, including any intermediate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. (d) Fatty alcohols
[0173] The term "fatty alcohol" denotes an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxy-alkylenated (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylenated) nor glycerolated. Fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, where R denotes a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0174] The fatty alcohol(s) may be liquid or solid. In some cases, it is preferable for the cosmetic compositions to include at least one solid fatty alcohol. Suitable solid fatty alcohols include those that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25°C, 780 mmHg), and that are insoluble in water, i.e., have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.
[0175] Solid fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, where R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0176] Non-limiting examples of useful fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol or lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol); myristyl alcohol or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol), and mixtures thereof.
[0177] In some embodiments, the fatty alcohol(s) have from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Specific non-limiting examples include cetyl alcohol, alcohol stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.
[0178] Preferably, the cosmetic composition includes one or more solid fatty alcohols, for example chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, preferably cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0179] Liquid fatty alcohols, in particular those of C10-C34, preferably have branched carbon chains and / or have one or more double bonds, preferably 1 to 3. They are preferably branched and / or unsaturated (C=C double bond) and contain from 12 to 40 carbon atoms.
[0180] Liquid fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, where R denotes a C12-C24 branched alkyl group or an alkenyl group (comprising at least one C12-C24 C=C double bond), R being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxyl group. These alcohols include oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-l-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-l-decanol, 2-decyl-l-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-l-cetanol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-1-dodecanol.
[0181] In some cases, the cosmetic compositions include one or more fatty alcohols selected from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl, myristyl, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myric alcohol and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions preferably include cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.
[0182] The total amount of one or more fatty alcohols will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols in the hair treatment compositions is from 1 to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of one or more fatty alcohols in the hair treatment compositions is about 1 to about 18 wt. %, about 1 to about 15 wt. %, about 2 to about 20 wt. %, about 2 to about 18 wt. %, about 2 to about 15 wt. %, about 3 to about 20 wt. %, about 3 to about 18 wt. %, about 3 to about 15 wt. %, about 5 to about 20 ...% by weight, from about 5 to about 20% by weight, from about 5 to about 18% by weight, from about 5 to about 15% by weight, from about 7 to about . 20% by weight, from about 7 to about 18% by weight, from about 7 to about 15% by weight, from about 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 or 14% by weight, including any intermediate combination, subcombination, range or subrange by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. (e) Fatty compounds other than fatty alcohols
[0183] The term "fatty compounds" is interchangeable with "fats." Fatty compounds are known as compounds that are not soluble (or only sparingly soluble) in water; they are hydrophilic and are often solubilized in organic solvents. They include materials such as oils, fats, waxes, hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty esters, etc. However, for the purposes of this disclosure, fatty alcohols are not included in fatty compounds. Fatty alcohols are identified separately. Furthermore, for the purposes of this disclosure, silicones are not considered fatty compounds. Non-limiting examples of useful fatty compounds (other than fatty alcohols) include oils, waxes, alkanes (paraffins), fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty esters, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, hydrocarbons, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.Fatty compounds are described by the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists, for example, in Cosmetic Raw Material Analysis and Quality, Volume I: Hydrocarbons, Glycerides, Waxes and Other Esters (Redwood Books, 1994).
[0184] Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds other than fatty alcohols include oils, mineral oils, alkanes (paraffins), fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, fatty alcohol esters, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, waxes, triglyceride compounds, lanolin and a mixture thereof.
[0185] Fatty alcohol derivatives
[0186] Fatty alcohol derivatives include fatty esters derived from one or more fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol derivatives also include alkoxylated fatty alcohols, for example, having about 1 to about 100 moles of an alkylene oxide per mole of alkoxylated fatty alcohol. For example, alkoxylated fatty alcohols may be alkoxylated with about 1 to about 80 moles, about 2 to about 50, about 5 to about 45 moles, about 10 to about 40 moles, or 15 to about 35 moles, including all intermediate ranges and subranges, of an alkylene oxide per mole of alkoxylated fatty alcohol.
[0187] Examples of alkoxylated fatty alcohols include steareth (e.g., steareth-2, steareth-20, and steareth-21), laureth (e.g., laureth-4 and laureth-12), ceteth (e.g., ceteth-10 and ceteth-20), and ceteareth (e.g., ceteareth-2, ceteareth-10, and ceteareth-20). In at least one instance, the or Alkoxylated fatty alcohols include steareth-20. In some cases, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol(s) may be exclusively steareth-20.
[0188] Other fatty alcohol derivatives which may optionally be suitable include methyl stearyl ether; 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether; stearyl acetate; cetyl propionate; the ceteth series of compounds, such as ceteth-1 to ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 to 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; ceteareth-1 to ceteareth-10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e. a mixture of fatty alcohols containing mainly cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, in which the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present;C1-C30 alkyl ethers of the ceteth, stearth and ceteareth compounds described above; polyoxyethylene ethers of branched alcohols such as octyldodecyl alcohol, dodecylpentadecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; PPG ethers such as PPG-9 stearic ether, PPG-11 stearyl ether, PPG-8 cetyl ether and PPG-10 cetyl ether; and mixtures thereof.
[0189] fatty acids
[0190] In some instances, the fatty compounds may be selected from fatty acids, fatty acid derivatives, fatty acid esters, hydroxyl-substituted fatty acids, and alkoxylated fatty acids. The fatty acids may be straight or branched chain acids and / or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include dibasic, tribasic, and other multiple acids as well as salts of these fatty acids, for example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be selected from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the fatty acids are selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid and a mixture thereof.
[0191] Non-limiting examples of polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include those of the following formula: OR2 RMoCH^CH-CHsO)^
[0192] wherein the average value of n is about 3 and R1, R2 and R3 may each independently be a fatty acid moiety or a hydrogen atom, provided that at least one of R1, R2 and R3 is a fatty acid moiety, e.g., R1, R2 and R 3 may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have a length of Ci-C40, CrC30, CrC25, or CrC20, CrC16, or CrC10.
[0193] Fatty acid derivatives are defined herein to include fatty acid esters of fatty alcohols as defined above, fatty acid esters of fatty alcohol derivatives as defined above when such fatty alcohol derivatives have an esterifiable hydroxyl group, fatty acid esters of alcohols other than the fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol derivatives described above, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and a mixture thereof.Non-limiting examples of fatty acid derivatives include ricinoleic acid, glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, dimethyl sebacate, PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, PEG-8 laurate, PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate, and a mixture thereof. Preferred products are glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and a mixture thereof.
[0194] Waxes
[0195] The fatty compounds may, in certain cases, include or be chosen from one or more waxes. Non-limiting examples of waxes in this category include, for example, synthetic wax, ceresin, paraffin, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, illipe butter, beeswax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin wax, lanolin derivatives, candelilla wax, cocoa butter, shellac wax, spermaceti wax, bran wax, kapok wax, sugarcane wax, lignite wax, whale wax, bay berry wax, acacia flower wax, vegetable waxes (such as sunflower (helianthus annuus) seed wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax or japonica wax or cork fiber or sugarcane wax), or a mixture thereof.
[0196] Oils
[0197] In some instances, the fatty compounds may include or be selected from one or more oils. Suitable oils include, but are not limited to, natural oils, such as coconut oil; hydrocarbons, such as mineral oil and hydrogenated polyisobutene; fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol; esters, such as C12-C15 alkyl benzoate; diesters, such as propylene dipelarganate; and triesters, such as glyceryl trioctanoate. Non-limiting examples of oils that may optionally be included in the cosmetic compositions include Isotridecyl isononanoate, PEG-4 diheptanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, cetyl stearate, cetyl myristate, coco caprate / dicaprylate, decyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl neopentanoate, octyl palmitate, dioctyl malate, tridecyl octanoate, myristyl myristate, octododecanol, or combinations of octyldodecanol, acetylated lanolin alcohol, cetyl acetate, isododecanol, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, castor oil, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, Triisocetyl citrate, sorbitan sesquioleate, C10-18 triglycerides, caprylic / capric / triglycerides, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, glyceryl triacetyl hydroxystearate, glyceryl triacetyl ricinoleate, glyceryl trioctanoate, hydrogenated castor oil, linseed oil, mink oil, olive oil, palm oil, olive butter,rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, tallow, tricaprin, trihydrostearin, triisostearin, trilaurin, trilinolein, trimyristin, triolein, tri-palmitin, tristearin, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, cholesterol, or combinations thereof.
[0198] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include one or more fatty compounds selected from fatty esters (such as isopropyl myristate, cetyl esters, isonyl isononanoate), polyolefins (such as petrolatum), waxes (e.g., candelilla wax and the like), squalene, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, vegetable and / or plant oil, hydrocarbon-based oils (such as isohexadecane), or a mixture thereof.
[0199] The total amount of one or more fatty compounds will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty compounds is from about 1 to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment compositions. In some embodiments, the total amount of one or more fatty compounds is about 0.5 to about 20 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 15 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 10 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 8 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 5 wt. %, about 1 to about 20 wt. %, about 1 to about 15 wt. %, about 1 to about 10 wt. %, about 1 to about 20 wt. %, about 1 to about 15 wt. %, about 1 to about 20 wt. %, about 1 to about 20 wt. %, about 1 to about 20 wt. %, about 1 to about 20 wt. %, about 1 to about 10 wt. %, about 1 to about 15 ...% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 4% by weight, from about 1 to about 3% by weight, including any intermediate combination, subcombination, range or subrange by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. Fatty alcohol to fatty compound ratio
[0200] The weight ratio of the total amount of one or more fatty alcohols to the total amount of one or more fatty compounds (other than one or more fatty alcohols) will vary. However, in various embodiments, the weight ratio is from about 2:1 to about 15:1 ((fatty alcohols:(fatty compounds)).In some embodiments, the weight ratio is from about 2:1 to about 12:1, from about 2:1 to about 10:1, from about 2:1 to about 8:1, from about 2:1 to about 7:1, from about 3:1 to about 15:1, from about 3:1 to about 12:1, from about 3:1 to about 10:1, from about 3:1 to about 8:1, from about 3:1 to about 7:1, from about 4:1 to about 15:1, from about 4:1 to about 12:1, from about 4:1 to about 10:1, from about 4:1 to about 8:1, from about 4:1 to about 7:1, from about 5:1 to about 15:1, from about 5:1 to about 12:1, from about 5:1 to about 10:1, from about 4:1 to about 8:1, from about 4:1 to about 7:1, from about 5:1 to about 15:1, from about 5:1 to about 12:1, from about 5:1 to about 10:1, from about 4:1 to about 8:1, from about 4:1 to about 7:1, from about 5:1 to about 15:1, from about 5:1 to about 12:1, from about 5:1 to about 10:1, from about 4:1 to about 8:1, from about 5 ... 10:1, about 5:1 to about 8:1, or about 5:1 to about 7:1, including any intermediate combination, subcombination, range or subrange. (0 Water-soluble solvents
[0201] The term "water-soluble solvent" is interchangeable with the term "water-miscible solvent" and refers to organic compounds that are liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and that have a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols (e.g., Chs, Cmo, or Cm alcohols), organic solvents, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols (e.g., butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), and a mixture thereof.
[0202] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers, such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether. Other suitable examples are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol and glycerin. Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.
[0203] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanediols such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, ether dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether;2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane and a mixture thereof. ;
[0204] In some cases, polyhydric alcohols may be particularly useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, and a mixture thereof.
[0205] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment compositions include one or more water-soluble solvents selected from glycerin, C1-6 monohydric alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof. In an even more preferred embodiment, the hair treatment compositions include one or more water-soluble solvents selected from glycerin, C1-6 monohydric alcohols, and a combination thereof, in particular, a combination of glycerin and a monohydric alcohol selected from isopropanol, ethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0206] The amount of water-soluble solvents in the hair treatment compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents is from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment compositions. In some embodiments, the total amount of one or more water-soluble solvents is from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 12% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 20% by weight. % by weight, about 0.5 to about 15% by weight, about 0.5 to about 12% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 20% by weight, about 1 to about 15% by weight, about 1 to about 12% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight.%, about 1 to about 8%, about 2 to about 20%, about 2 to about 15%, about 2 to about 12%, about 2 to about 10%, about 2 to about 8%, about 4 to about 20%, about 4 to about 15%, about 4 to about 12%, about 4 to about 10% by weight, or about 4 to about 8% by weight, including any intermediate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. (g) Non-ionic thickening polymers
[0207] Non-limiting examples of non-ionic thickening polymers include polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyacrylamide, a neutral polysaccharide, and their derivatives (such as ethers and esters). Examples of polysaccharide derivatives include neutral gums (such as guar gum and hydroxypropyl guar), cellulose ethers (such as hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC), methylhydroxyethylcellulose (MHEC), ethylhydroxyethylcellulose (EHEC), methylethylhydroxyethylcellulose (MEHEC), hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC), hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC), and hydrophobized derivatives (e.g., HM-EHEC), as well as starch and its derivatives (e.g., dextrin).
[0208] Non-limiting examples of useful non-ionic thickening polymers are provided below.
[0209] (1) Celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain; Examples that may be mentioned include: hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, for example the product NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (Cl6 alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon, or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company Berol Nobel; and hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 product (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenyl ether) sold by the company Amerchol,
[0210] (2) Hydroxypropyl guars including hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhône-Poulenc. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hair treatment compositions include hydroxypropyl guar.
[0211] (3) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and fatty chain hydrophobic monomers; Examples include: ANTARON V216 or GANEX V216 products (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer) sold by ISP ANTARON V220 or GANEX V220 products (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer) sold by ISP,
[0212] (4) Copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and monomers amphiphiles comprising at least one fatty chain, for example the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name ANTIL 208,
[0213] (5) Copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hyaluronic monomers drophobes comprising at least one fatty chain, for example polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer,
[0214] (6) Polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hy drophiles generally of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which can be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences,
[0215] (7) Polymers with an aminoplast ether skeleton containing at least one fatty chain, such as the PURE THIX compounds marketed by the company Sud-Chemie.
[0216] In some cases, the nonionic polymers are selected from polysaccharides including galactomannan polysaccharide (e.g., guar derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guar), nonionic derivatives of polysaccharides, associative polymers, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, preferred nonionic polymers include sclerotium gum, guar gums, hydroxyalkylcelluloses optionally modified with a hydrophobic group, such as hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxymethylcelluloses optionally modified with a hydrophobic group, guar gum, guar gum derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guar, and inulins optionally modified with a hydrophobic group.
[0217] In a preferred embodiment, the non-ionic polymer(s) are chosen from methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, nitrocellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powder, polyvinylpyrrolidone, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, starch, modified starch, methylhydroxypropyl starch and a mixture thereof.
[0218] Hydroxypropyl guar gum is a particularly preferred non-ionic thickening polymer for use in the hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure.
[0219] The total amount of the nonionic thickening polymer(s) will vary depending on the desired thickness and the type of nonionic thickening polymer used. However, in various embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include about 0.05 to about 5% by weight of the nonionic polymer(s), based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the nonionic thickening agent(s) is from about 0.05 to about 4 wt. %, about 0.05 to about 3 wt. %, about 0.05 to about 2 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 1 wt. %, about 0.2 to about 5 wt. %, about 0.2 to about 4 wt. %, about 0.2 to about 3 wt. %, about 0.2 to about 3 wt. %, about 0.2 to about 2 wt. %, or about 0.2 to about 1 wt.5% by weight, or from about 0.2 to about 1% by weight, including any intermediate combination, subcombination, range or subrange by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. (h) Conditioning agents
[0220] Non-limiting examples of conditioning agents include cationic polymers, silicones, humectants, emollients, occlusives, proteins, etc. A variety of useful conditioning agents are described in 'INTERNATIONAL COSMETIC INGREDIENT DICTIONARY AND HANDBOOK' (Volume 4, Editor: RC Pepe, JA Wenninger, GN McEwen, The Cosmetic, Dental and Fragrance Association, 9th Edition, 2002) in Section 4 under the heading "Hair Conditioning Agents". Particularly preferred conditioning agents include cationic polymers, silicones, and mixtures thereof, therefore, in a particularly preferred embodiment, the hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure include one or more cationic polymers, silicones, or a mixture thereof; and optionally, one or more additional conditioning agents.
[0221] The total amount of one or more conditioning agents in hair treatment compositions will vary depending on the type of conditioning agent used, for example, cationic polymers are typically used in smaller amounts than silicones, i.e., silicones are generally used in larger amounts than cationic polymers. However, in various embodiments embodiment, the total amount of one or more conditioning agents is from about 0.05 to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of one or more conditioning agents is from about 0.05 to about 12% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 12% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, including any intermediate combination, subcombination, range or subrange by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. Amounts more specific to cationic polymers and silicones are provided in the sections below. (h-1) Cationic polymers
[0222] Cationic polymers, as used herein, are polymers carrying a positive charge or incorporating cationic entities into their structure. Cationic polymers may comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and / or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomers and / or compatible spacer monomers. Cationic polymers often provide conditioning benefits to hair treatment compositions and may therefore be referred to as "cationic conditioning polymers."Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers include copolymers of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and l-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (referred to as Polyquaternium-16); copolymers of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to as Polyquaternium-11); cationic polymer containing a diallyl quaternary ammonium including, for example, homopolymer of dimethyldiallyammonium chloride and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride (referred to as Polyquaternium-6 and Polyquaternium-7); polymers of polysaccharides, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives. Cationic cellulose is available as salts of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with a trimethylammonium-substituted epoxide (called Polyquaternium-10).Another type of cationic cellulose includes polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with a lauryldimethylammonium substituted epoxide (referred to as Polyquaternium-24). Additionally or alternatively, the cationic conditioning polymers may include or be selected from cationic derivatives of guar gum, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0223] Preferred cationic polymers include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose, cationic starch, and cationic guar gum. In the context of the present disclosure, cationic polysaccharide polymers Polysaccharides include cationic polysaccharides and polysaccharide derivatives (e.g., derived to be cationic), e.g., leading to cationic cellulose (cellulose derived to be cationic), cationic starch (derived to be cationic), cationic guar (guar derived to be cationic).
[0224] Non-limiting examples of cationic celluloses include hydroxyethylcellulose (also known as HEC), hydroxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose (also known as HPC), hydroxybutylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose (also known as methylhydroxyethylcellulose) and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (also known as HPMC), cetylhydroethylcellulose, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, and mixtures thereof, preferably polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, and mixtures thereof.
[0225] Non-limiting examples of cationic guar include guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
[0226] Non-limiting examples of cationic starch include starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, oxidized starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride PG, and a mixture thereof.
[0227] Dans certains modes de réalisation, la composition de traitement des cheveux peut inclure un ou plusieurs polyquaterniums. Des exemples non limitatifs incluent les poly-quatemium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, poly-quatemium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, poly-quatemium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, poly-quatemium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, poly-quatemium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, poly-quatemium-21, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, poly-quatemium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, poly-quatemium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, poly-quatemium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, poly-quatemium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, poly-quatemium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53,poly-quaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, poly-quaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-61, poly-quaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, poly-quatemium-66, polyquaternium-67, etc. In some cases, preferred poly-quatemium compounds include polyquaternium-10, polyquatemium-11, poly-quatemium-67, and a mixture thereof. ,
[0228] In some embodiments, the hair treatment composition may include polyquaternium-1 (ethanol, 2,2',2”-nitrilotris-, polymer with l,4-dichloro-2-butene and N,N,N',N'-tetramethyl-2-butene-l,4-diamine), poly-quaternium-2, (poly[bis(2-chloroethyl) ether- alt-l,3-bis[3-(dimethylamino)propyl]urea]), polyquaternium-4, (hydroxyethylcellulose-dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymer; diallyl-dimethylammonium chloride-hydroxyethylcellulose copolymer), polyquaternium-5 (acrylamide and ethyl dimethylammonium methacrylate copolymer, quaternized), poly-quaternium-6 (poly(diallyldimethylammonium chloride)), polyquaternium-7 (acrylamide and diallyldimethylammonium chloride copolymer), poly-quaternium-8 (methacrylic acid dimethylaminoethyl stearyl ester copolymer, quaternized with dimethyl sulfate), polyquaternium-9 (homopolymer of N,N-(dimethylamino)ethyl methacrylic acid, quaternized with bromomethane), polyquaternium-10 (quatemized hydroxyethylcellulose), polyquaternium-11 (copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate),polyquaternium-12 (copolymer of ethyl methacrylate / abietyl methacrylate / diethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate), polyquaternium-13 (copolymer of ethyl methacrylate / oleyl methacrylate / diethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate), polyquaternium-14 (homopolymer of trimethylaminoethyl methacrylate), polyquaternium-15 (copolymer of acrylamide methyl chloride-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate), polyquaternium-16 (copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole quaternized), Polyquaternium-17 (copolymer of adipic acid, dimethylaminopropylamine and dichloroethyl ether), Poly-quaternium-18 (copolymer of azelaic acid, dimethylaminopropylamine and dichloroethyl ether), polyquaternium-19 (copolymer of polyvinyl alcohol and 2,3-epoxypropylamine), polyquaternium-20 (copolymer of polyvinyl octadecyl ether and 2,3-epoxypropylamine),polyquaternium-22 (copolymer of acrylic acid and diallyldimethylammonium chloride), polyquaternium-24 (auternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted by lauryldimethylammonium), polyquaternium-27 (block copolymer of Polyquaternium-2 and Polyquaternium-17), polyquaternium-28 (copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium), polyquaternium-29 (chitosan modified with propylene oxide and quaternized with epichlorohydrin), polyquaternium-30 (ethanaminium, N-(carboxymethyl)-N,N-dimethyl-2-[(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propen-1-yl)oxy]-, inner salt, polymer with methyl 2-methyl-2-propenoate), polyquaternium-31 (N,N-dimethylaminopropyl-N-acrylamidine quaternized with diethyl sulfate bound to a polyacrylonitrile block), polyquaternium-32 (poly(acrylamide) chloride, 2-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium)), polyquaternium-33 (copolymer of trimethylaminoethylacrylate salt and acrylamide), polyquaternium-34 (copolymer of 1,3-dibromopropane and N,N-diethyl-N',N'-dimethyl-1,3-propanediamine), polyquaternium-35 (methosulfate of the copolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium and methacryloyloxyethyldimethylacetylammonium), polyquaternium-36 (copolymer of N,N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and butyl methacrylate, quaternized with dimethyl sulfate), polyquaternium-37 (poly(2-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium) chloride), polyquaternium-39 (terpolymer of acrylic acid, acrylamide and chloride diallyldimethylammonium), polyquaternium-42 (poly[oxyethylene(dimethylimino)ethylene (dimethylimino)ethylene] dichloride), polyquaternium-43 (copolymer of acrylamide, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, 2-amidopropylacrylamide sulfonate and dimethylaminopropylamine),polyquaternium-44 (3-Methyl-1-vinylimidazolium-N-vinylpyrrolidone methyl sulfate copolymer), polyquaternium-45 (copolymer of (N-methyl-N-ethoxyglycine) methacrylate and N,N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized with dimethyl sulfate), polyquaternium-46 (terpolymer of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone and quaternized vinylimidazole), polyquaternium-47 (terpolymer of acrylic acid, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride and methyl acrylate) and / or polyquaternium-67.
[0229] In some embodiments, the hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure include one or more cationic polymers selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose (e.g., polyquaternium-10), cationic starch derivatives, cationic guar gum derivatives, copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldial-lyammonium chloride (e.g., polyquaternium-7), polyquaterniums, and a mixture thereof. for example, the cationic polymer(s) may be selected from polyquaterniums, for example, polyquaterniums selected from polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-67 and a mixture thereof. A combination of two or more polyquaterniums may be useful.A particularly preferred and useful cationic polymer is polyquaternium-10.
[0230] In some embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include one or more cationic polymers selected from cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates (e.g., hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein), diquaternary ammonium polymers (e.g., hexadimethrine chloride), copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyl chloride diallyammonium, and mixtures thereof.
[0231] The hair treatment compositions according to the present disclosure typically include about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more cationic surfactants, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. The hair treatment compositions may include about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1.5% by weight, about 0.2 to about 5% by weight, about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, about 0.2 to about 3% by weight, about 0.2 to about 2% by weight, about 0.2 to about 1.5% by weight of one or more cationic polymers, including any intermediate combination, subcombination, range or subrange by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. (h-2) Silicones
[0232] Silicones are also referred to as silicone oils. Non-limiting examples of silicones include dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, poly-silicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytri-methylsilane. In a preferred embodiment, the one or more silicones are selected from non-volatile silicone oils. Useful silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.Other examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear or cyclic silicones, such as those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8x106 m2 / s) and / or containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms. These silicones optionally include alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, or mixtures thereof.
[0233] In a more preferred embodiment, the hair treatment compositions include one or more silicone oils selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, amodimethicone, and quaternized or quaternizable polysiloxanes (e.g., bis-cetearyl amodimethicone), and mixtures thereof.
[0234] Non-limiting examples of quaternized or quaternizable polysiloxanes include silicone quaternium 22 (e.g., AB IL T QU AT 60), silicone quaternium 12 (PECOSIL CA-1240), amodimethicone (e.g., DOW CORNING 2-8566 AMINO FLUID), bis-cetearyl amodimethicone (e.g., SILSOFT AX), bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone (e.g., SILSOFT A-843), PEG-40 / PPG-8 methylaminopropyl hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer (e.g., SILSOFT A+), silicone quaternium 16 (and) undeceth-11 (and) butyloctanol (and) undeceth-5 (e.g., DOW CORNING 5-7113 SILICONE QUAT MICROEMULSION), and bis-isobutyl / PEG / PPG-20 / 35 / amodimethicone copolymer (e.g., DOW CORNING CE 8401 EMULSION). A preferred quaternized or quaternizable polysiloxane is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone.
[0235] In some embodiments, at least one of the one or more silicones (at least one of the one or more conditioning agents) is an amino functionalized silicone. Non-limiting examples include amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, and a mixture thereof. Amodimethicone is a particularly preferred amino functionalized silicone.
[0236] In a certain embodiment, at least one or the silicone oil(s) are selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, capryldimethicone, caprylyl trimethicone, caprylyl methicone, cetearylmethicone, hexadecylmethicone, hexylmethicone, laurylmethicone, myristylmethicone, phenylmethicone, stearylmethicone, stearyl dimethicone, behenyl dimethicone, trifluoropropylmethicone, cetyl dimethicone, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof, preferably dimethicone.In a more preferred embodiment, the hair treatment compositions include dimethicone and optionally, one or more additional silicones, e.g., one or more additional silicones selected from amodimethicone, quaternized or quaternizable amodimethicone (e.g., bis-cetearyl amodimethicone), or a combination thereof.
[0237] The total amount of one or more silicones in the hair treatment compositions, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of one or more silicones is from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more silicones is from about 0.1 to about 12 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 12 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 2 to about 15 wt%, about 2 to about 12 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 8 wt%, about 3 to about 15 wt%, about 3 to about 12 wt%, about 3 to about 10 wt%, or about 3 to about 8 wt%, including any intermediate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. (i) Miscellaneous ingredients
[0238] In various embodiments, the hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure include one or more miscellaneous ingredients. The miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the hair treatment compositions and do not disrupt or materially affect the fundamental and novel properties of the hair treatment compositions. Miscellaneous ingredients commonly used in cosmetics and hair care products are known in the art.Non-limiting examples include preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates, protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearlizing agents, buffers, colorants for coloring hair treatment compositions (not for coloring hair), sequestering agents, etc.
[0239] The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients is from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of one or more miscellaneous ingredients is about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight, including any intermediate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. (k) pH
[0240] The pH of hair treatment compositions will vary, for example, the pH of the hair treatment composition may vary depending on how the composition is formulated for use, for example, when the hair treatment composition is formulated as a stand-alone product, the pH may differ from that of the hair treatment composition formulated to be added to or used with another hair treatment composition (e.g., a hair treatment composition comprising one or more chemically active agents) or when the hair treatment composition is formulated for use in a routine (e.g., for use in a shampooing and conditioning routine). However, in various embodiments, the pH of the hair treatment composition is between about 3 and about 10.In some embodiments, the pH of the hair treatment compositions is from about 4 to about 10, about 5 to about 10, about 6 to about 10, or about 7 to about 10. In other embodiments, the pH of the hair treatment compositions is from about 3 to about 9, from about 3 to about 9, from about 3 to about 8, from about 3 to about 7, preferably from about 3 to about 6.
[0241] Viscosity of hair treatment compositions
[0242] The viscosity of the hair treatment compositions is typically from about 5 mPa.s to about 100,000 mPa.s, from about 5 mPa.s to about 75,000 mPa.s, from about 5 mPa.s to about 50,000 mPa.s at a temperature of 25°C. The viscosity may be from about 10 mPa.s to about 100,000 mPa.s, from about 10 mPa.s to about 75,000 mPa.s, from about 10 mPa.s to about 50,000 mPa.s, from about 15 to about 50,000 mPa.s, from about 20 to about 50,000 mPa.s, from about 100 mPa.s to about 50,000 mPa.s, from about 1,000 to about 50,000, from about 5 mPa.s to about 25,000, from about 10 to about 25,000 mPa.s, from about 20 to about 25,000 mPa.s, about 100 to about 25,000 mPa.s, about 1,000 to about 25,000 mPa.s, about 5 to about 10,000 mPa.s, about 15 to about 10,000 mPa.s, about 20 mPa.s to 10,000 mPa.s, about 5 mPa.s to 50,000 mPa.s, about 10 mPa.s to 50,000 mPa.s, about 15 mPa.s to 50,000 mPa.s, about 20 mPa.s to 50,000 mPa.s, about 5 to 25,000 mPa.s, about 10 mPa.s to 25,000 mPa.s, about 15 to 25,000 mPa.s, about 20 mPa.s to 25,000 mPa.s, about 5 mPa.s to 10,000 mPa.s, about 10 mPa.s to 10,000 mPa.s, about 15 mPa.s to 10,000 mPa.s, or about 20 to 10,000 mPa.s, about 5 mPa.s to about 5,000 mPa.s, about 10 mPa.s to about 5,000 mPa.s, about 15 mPa.s to about 5,000 mPa.s, about 20 mPa.s to about 5,000 mPa.s, about 5 mPa.s to about 1,000 mPa.s, about 10 mPa.s to about 1,000 mPa.s, from about 15 mPa.s to about 1,000 mPa.s, from about 20 to about 1,000 mPa.s, from about 5 to about 500 mPa.s, from about 10 to about 500 mPa.s, from about 15 to about 500 mPa.s, from about 20 to about 500 mPa.s, or from about 5 to about 250 mPa.s at a . temperature of 25°C, including any intermediate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range.
[0243] Viscosity measurements may be made, for example, using a Brooksfield viscosimeter / rheometer using an RV-3 disc spindle or an RV-5 disc spindle at a particular speed, for example, 5, 10, 15 and / or 20 rpm or using a Rheomat with an M4 spindle. For example, viscosity may be measured with a T-bar E spindle using a Helipath post mounted on the Brookfield DV-11+ Pro, with a rotational speed of 20 rpm. Stability
[0244] The hair treatment compositions are stable and homogeneous. In other words, the hair treatment compositions do not visually phase separate or develop sedimentation, and do not form visibly observable particles, e.g., the hair treatment composition remains stable for at least 1 week at room temperature; the hair treatment composition remains stable for at least 8 weeks at 4°C; and / or the hair treatment composition remains stable for at least 8 weeks at 45°C. Accordingly, the present disclosure relates to hair treatment compositions that remain visually homogeneous and free from visual phase separation and particle formation for at least 1 week, 4 weeks, and / or 8 weeks at room temperature.In addition, the present disclosure relates to hair treatment compositions that remain visually homogeneous and free from visual phase separation and particle formation for at least 1 week, 4 weeks and / or 8 weeks at 4°C. The present disclosure also relates to hair treatment compositions that remain visually homogeneous and free from visual phase separation and particle formation for at least 1 week, 4 weeks and / or 8 weeks at 45°C. Processes
[0245] The hair treatment compositions are particularly useful in hair treatment methods, for example, hair restructuring, repairing, strengthening and / or protecting methods. These methods are suitable for repairing, minimizing, mitigating and / or compensating for damage to the hair caused by chemical treatments (e.g., bleaching, coloring, straightening, curling, etc.). The methods also relate to preventing, minimizing, mitigating and treating hair vulnerable to damage (or already damaged) by environmental factors (e.g., hard water, sun damage, chlorine, etc.) and damage caused by styling the hair, for example, with heat (e.g., blow drying, flat irons). hot ironing, etc.)
[0246] The methods include applying one or more hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure to the hair. The one or more hair treatment compositions may be temporarily applied to the hair (e.g., applied for a period of about 1 hour or less and rinsed from the hair), or may be applied to the hair and left on the hair for a longer period of time before being rinsed from the hair (e.g., for about 2 minutes, 5 minutes, 10 minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes or more). In cases where the hair treatment composition is rinsed from the hair shortly after application (immediately after application or within 2, 5, 10, 20, 30 minutes or more) before styling the hair, the hair treatment composition is a "rinse-off" product.In some embodiments, the hair treatment compositions are applied to the hair and may remain on the hair indefinitely, e.g., they may remain on the hair without being rinsed out prior to styling the hair, i.e., the hair treatment composition is a "leave-in" product. The methods are particularly well-suited for application to chemically treated hair, hair to be chemically treated, damaged hair, and natural hair, e.g., to improve the strength, luster, shine, and / or elasticity of the hair, etc.
[0247] The hair treatment compositions of the present invention are particularly advantageous because they can be a stand-alone product (used independently) or can be used in methods that combine the hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure with a separate hair treatment composition for chemically treating hair (i.e., a hair treatment composition comprising one or more chemically active agents that chemically treat hair). Non-limiting examples of hair treatment compositions for chemically treating hair include bleaching compositions, hair straightening or curling compositions, hair relaxing or texlaxing compositions, and the like.The hair treatment compositions of the present invention may be combined with (added to) one or more components of a hair treatment composition for chemically treating hair, for example, if the hair treatment composition for chemically treating hair is a bleaching composition, the hair treatment compositions of the present invention may be added to a developer component, may be added to a bleaching component, or may be combined with a mixture of the developer component and the bleaching component. Similarly, hair styling compositions (for perming, . Hair straightening and / or smoothing) often require more than one component (e.g., a straightening component, an activating component, a neutralizing component, etc.). The hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure may include one or more (or all) of these components.
[0248] As above, the hair treatment compositions of the instant disclosure may be used as a stand-alone product in a hair cleansing (shampooing) and optional conditioning routine, or may be combined with (added into) a hair cleanser (shampoo), a conditioner, or added into both a hair cleanser and conditioner.
[0249] The present disclosure relates to methods of making the hair treatment compositions. The methods include combining: (a) both citric acid and citric acid salts in a weight ratio of 1:10 to about 10:1 (or any of the ratios described in the disclosure); (b) one or more surfactants (in the amounts and types described in the disclosure); and water (e.g., in the amounts described in the disclosure) to form a hair treatment composition according to the present disclosure. The citric acid and citric acid salts may be combined with each other before being added to the other components of the hair treatment composition or may be added / combined individually to the other components of the hair treatment composition.
[0250] In some cases, to achieve a desired pH, the methods may include adding one or more pH correcting compounds, e.g., to provide a pH of about 3 to about 10 (or any other pH value or range described herein).
[0251] The methods also optionally include the combination of (d) one or more fatty alcohols (in the amounts and types described in the disclosure); (e) one or more fatty compounds other than fatty alcohols (in the amounts and types described in the disclosure); (f) one or more water-soluble solvents (in the amounts and types described in the disclosure); (g) one or more non-ionic thickening polymers (in the amounts and types described in the disclosure); (h) one or more conditioning agents selected from cationic polymers, silicones, and mixtures thereof (in the amounts and types described in the disclosure); and / or (i) one or more miscellaneous ingredients (in the amounts and types described in the disclosure). Necessary
[0252] The hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure, in various embodiments, are part of a kit, e.g., a kit comprising one or more hair treatment compositions according to the present disclosure and one or more additional hair treatment compositions, wherein each of the one or more hair treatment compositions (and each of the additional hair treatment compositions) are separately contained, for example, in some embodiments, the kits comprise: (i) one or more hair treatment compositions according to the present disclosure; and (ii) one or more additional hair treatment compositions selected from hair cleansing compositions (shampoos), hair conditioning compositions (conditioners), and hair treatment compositions for chemically treating hair comprising one or more chemically active agents that chemically treat the hair. Methods of implementation
[0253] Preferred embodiments are discussed throughout this disclosure and below. In various embodiments, the hair treatment compositions comprise or consist of:
[0254] (a) from about 0.25 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.25 to about 6, more preferably from about 0.25 to about 3% by weight of citric acid, one or more citric acid salts, or a combination thereof, wherein if a combination of citric acid and citric acid salts is present, the weight ratio of citric acid to citric acid salts added to form the combination is from 1:10 to about 10:1,
[0255] Alternatively, however, the hair treatment composition comprises about 1 to about 10 wt. %, preferably about 1.2 to about 8 wt. %, more preferably about 1.5 to about 5 wt. % of a combination of citric acid and one or more citric acid salts;
[0256] wherein the weight ratio of citric acid to citric acid salts added to form the combination is from 1:10 to about 10:1, preferably from about 1:6 to about 6:1, more preferably from about 1:3 to about 3:1.
[0257] (b) one or more surfactants, preferably one or more cationic surfactants and optionally, one or more surfactants selected from nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and a mixture thereof;
[0258] (c) about 50 to about 95% by weight, preferably about 55 to about 90% by weight, more preferably about 60 to about 85% by weight of water;
[0259] (d) optionally, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, preferably about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight, of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example, selected from preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, hy- protein drolysates, protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, buffers, colorants for coloring hair treatment compositions (not for coloring hair), sequestering agents, and a combination thereof;
[0260] wherein the pH of the composition is from about 3 to about 10, preferably from about 4 to about 9, more preferably from about 5 to about 8; and the weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.
[0261] In some embodiments, the hair treatment composition comprises or consists of:
[0262] (a) from about 0.25 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.25 to about 6, more preferably from about 0.25 to about 3% by weight of citric acid, one or more citric acid salts, or a combination thereof, wherein if a combination of citric acid and citric acid salts is present, the weight ratio of citric acid to citric acid salts added to form the combination is from 1:10 to about 10:1,
[0263] Alternatively, however, the hair treatment composition comprises about 1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1.2 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1.5 to about 5% by weight of a combination of citric acid and one or more citric acid salts;
[0264] wherein the weight ratio of citric acid to citric acid salts added to form the combination is from 1:10 to about 10:1, preferably from about 1:6 to about 6:1, more preferably from about 1:3 to about 3:1;
[0265] (b) one or more surfactants, preferably one or more cationic surfactants and optionally, one or more surfactants selected from nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and a mixture thereof;
[0266] (c) about 50 to about 95% by weight, preferably about 55 to about 90% by weight, more preferably about 60 to about 85% by weight of water;
[0267] (d) one or more fatty alcohols;
[0268] (e) one or more fatty compounds other than fatty alcohols, for example, chosen among oils, waxes, alkanes (paraffins), fatty acids, fatty esters, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, their derivatives, and their mixtures;
[0269] wherein the weight ratio of (d) to (e) is from about 2:1 to about 15:1, preferably from about 3:1 to about 10:1, more preferably from about 4:1 to about 8:1.
[0270] (f) one or more water-soluble solvents, for example, one or more water-soluble solvents selected from glycerin, C1-6 monoalcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof;
[0271] (g) one or more non-ionic thickening polymers, for example, chosen from guar gum, guar derivatives (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar), cellulose gum, cellulose derivatives, starch, starch derivatives, polysaccharides, polysaccharide derivatives, ethylene oxide homopolymers and copolymers having a molar mass equal to or greater than 10,000 g / mol, polyvinyl alcohols, vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers and copolymers, vinylcaprolactam homopolymers and copolymers, polyvinylmethyl ether homopolymers and copolymers, and mixtures thereof, more preferably, the nonionic thickening polymer(s) include hydroxypropyl guar;
[0272] (h) optionally, one or more conditioning agents, preferably chosen among cationic polymers, silicones and a combination thereof;
[0273] (i) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 6% by weight, of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example, selected from preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates, protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearlizing agents, buffers, colorants for coloring hair treatment compositions (not for coloring hair), sequestering agents, and a combination thereof;
[0274] wherein the pH of the composition is from about 3 to about 10, preferably from about 4 to about 9, more preferably from about 5 to about 8; and the weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.
[0275] The hair treatment composition is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
[0276] In some embodiments, the hair treatment composition comprises or consists of:
[0277] (a) from about 0.25 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.25 to about 6, more preferably from about 0.25 to about 3% by weight of citric acid, one or more citric acid salts, or a combination thereof, wherein if a combination of citric acid and citric acid salts is present, the weight ratio of citric acid to citric acid salts added to form the combination is from 1:10 to about 10:1,
[0278] Alternatively, however, the hair treatment composition comprises about 1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1.2 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1.5 to about 5% by weight of a combination of citric acid and one or more citric acid salts;
[0279] wherein the weight ratio of citric acid to citric acid salts added to form the combination is from 1:10 to about 10:1, preferably from about 1:6 to about 6:1, more preferably about 1:3 to about 3:1;
[0280] (b) about 1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight, more preferably 4 to about 8% by weight of one or more surfactants, preferably one or more cationic surfactants and optionally, one or more surfactants selected from nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and a mixture thereof, more preferably wherein the total amount of cationic surfactants is about 1 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 4 to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition,
[0281] wherein the cationic surfactant(s) are more preferably selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isos-tearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, ara-chidamidoethyidimethylamine, arm sicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine,palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably are chosen from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof; ,
[0282] (c) about 50 to about 95% by weight, preferably about 55 to about 90% by weight, more preferably about 60 to about 85% by weight of water;
[0283] (d) from about 5 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 5 to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 8 to about 15% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols, for example, one or more fatty alcohols selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, or mixtures thereof;
[0284] (e) from about 1 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 1 to about 6% by weight, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more fatty compounds other than fatty alcohols, for example, selected from oils, waxes, alkanes (paraffins), fatty acids, fatty esters, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof;
[0285] wherein the weight ratio of (d) to (e) is from about 2:1 to about 15:1, preferably from about 3:1 to about 10:1, more preferably from about 4:1 to about 8:1.
[0286] (f) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, for example, one or more water-soluble solvents selected from glycerin, C1-6 monohydric alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof, wherein the water-soluble solvent(s) preferably include at least glycerin, one or more C1-6 monohydric alcohols, or a mixture thereof;
[0287] (g) from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 3% by weight of one or more non-ionic thickening polymers, preferably selected from guar gum, guar derivatives (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar), cellulose gum, cellulose derivatives, starch, starch derivatives, polysaccharides, polysaccharide derivatives, ethylene oxide homopolymers and copolymers having a molar mass equal to or greater than 10,000 g / mol, polyvinyl alcohols, vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers and copolymers, vi-nylcaprolactam homopolymers and copolymers, polyvinylmethyl ether homopolymers and copolymers, and mixtures thereof, more preferably, the non-ionic thickening polymer(s) include hydroxypropyl guar;
[0288] (h) optionally, about 0.01 to about 12 wt%, preferably about 0.1 about 10% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more conditioning agents, preferably selected from cationic polymers, silicones and a combination thereof;
[0289] (i) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6%, of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example, selected from preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates, protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearlizing agents, buffers, colorants for coloring hair treatment compositions (not for coloring hair), sequestering agents, and a combination thereof;
[0290] wherein the pH of the composition is from about 3 to about 10, preferably from about 4 to about 9, more preferably from about 5 to about 8; and the weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.
[0291] The hair treatment composition is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
[0292] In some embodiments, the hair treatment compositions described herein may optionally include one or more amines, for example, monoamines, diamines, polyamines, and mixtures thereof. However, in other embodiments, it is preferable that the hair treatment compositions be free or essentially free of amines, i.e., free or essentially free of monoamines, diamines, and / or polyamines. In other embodiments, the hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure are free or essentially free of monoethanolamine.In other embodiments, the hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure are free or essentially free of monoethanolamine, propanolamine, isopropanolamine, triethanolamine, bu-tanolamine, isobutanolamine, methylethanolamine, butylethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0293] In some embodiments, the hair treatment compositions described in the present disclosure may optionally include one or more polymeric acid and / or polymeric acid anhydride compounds, e.g., polymers containing recurring units derived from maleic acid and / or maleic anhydride. In some embodiments, the hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure are free or substantially free of polymeric acid and / or polymeric acid anhydride compounds are polymers containing recurring units derived from one or more of the following acids, anhydrides, salts, or derivatives thereof
[0294] (i) styrene sulfonic acid,
[0295] (ii) crotonic acid,
[0296] (iii) acrylic or methacrylic acid,
[0297] (iv) ethylene-a,[3-dicarboxylic acid, and / or
[0298] (v) allyloxyacetic acid, methallyloxyacetic acid, acid 3-allyloxypropionic acid, allylthioacetic acid, allylaminoacetic acid, vi-nylacetic acid, vinyloxyacetic acid, crotyloxyacetic acid, 3-butenoic acid, 4-pentenoic acid, 10-undecenoic acid, allylmalonic acid, maleamic acid, itaconamic acid or N-monohydroxyalkyl- or N-dihydroxyalkyl-maleamic or -itaconamic acids.
[0299] As explained below under "Definitions," when hair treatment compositions are "substantially free" of a designated component (e.g., one or more amines, one or more polymeric acid compounds and / or polymeric acid anhydride compounds, etc.), there may be less than 2% by weight of the designated component. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of the designated component added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions (provided that an amount less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the fundamental and novel features of the claimed invention). Similarly, the compositions may include less than 1.5% by weight, less than 1% by weight, less than 0.5% by weight, less than 0.1% by weight, less than 0.05% by weight, or less than 0.01% by weight, or none at all of the designated component. EXAMPLES
[0300] The implementation of the present disclosure is provided by means of the following examples. The examples serve to illustrate the technology without being limiting in nature. Example 1 (Inventive compositions)
[0301] [Tables 1] Inventive compositions ABCD (a) Actives CITRIC ACID 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.6 SODIUM CITRATE 0.8 0.8 0.8 1.4 Citric acid to sodium citrate ratio 1.5:1 1.5:1 1.5:1 1.1:1 (b) Cationic surfactant CE-TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 0.1 0.1 0.1 BE-HENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 3.6 3.6 3.6 3.6 DL CETYLDIMONIUM CHLORIDE 1.1 1.1 1.1 Amphoteric COCO-BETAINE 0.2 0.2 0.2 Non-ionic Surfactant PEG-100 STEARATE STEARETH-6 TRIDECETH-3 TRIDECETH-10 POLYSORBATE 20 < 1 < 1 < 1 < 1 (d) Fatty alcohol STEARYL ALCOHOL 1.8 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 12 12 12 7 (e) Fatty compound ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 CETYL ESTER 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX 0.5 0.5 0.5 Ratio (d) to (e) 6 6 6 5.8 (f) Water soluble solvent GLYCERIN 5 5 5 5 ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL 1.1 1.1 1.1 0.8 (g) Non-ionic thickening polymer HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.2 (h) Cationic polymer POLYQUATERNIUM -10 0.3 Silicone AMODIMETHICONE 0.1 0.1 0.1 DIMETHICONE 3.4 3.4 3.4 BIS-CETEARYL AMODIMETHICONE 1.8 1.8 1.8 (i) Miscellaneous. TRISODIUM HEDTA SODIUM CHLORIDE PHENOXYETHANOL FRAGRANCE ACETIC ACID, DILAURYL THIODIPROPIONATE <4 <4 <4 <4 (c) WATER 65 65 65 76 Form e Emulsion O / EH / EH / EH / W PH 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.8 Viscosity 39000* 39000* 39000* 30000*
[0302] * Viscosity was measured with the T-bar E spindle using a Helipath post mounted on Brookfield DV-II+ Pro, with a rotation speed of 20 rpm. Example 2 (Fiber Integrity Test)
[0303] A study was conducted to evaluate the hair fiber integrity of hair treated with inventive composition D of Example 1. The study used two different hair types: (1) European medium brown, 9% bleached hair strands (3.0 g, 8'' length, 1'' width); and (2) curly multi-ethnic brown, 9% bleached hair strands (3.0 g, 8'' length, 1'' width). The hair strands were subjected to one of three different treatment protocols.
[0304] [Tables2] Treatment 1 Treatment 2 Treatment 3 Shampoo (1 application) Inventive Composition D (6 applications) Inventive Composition D, shampoo and conditioner (6 applications)
[0305] Treatment 1: 0.4 g of a standard shampoo was applied to strands of hair, massaged into the hair for 30 seconds, and then left on the hair for 30 seconds. After 30 seconds, the shampoo was rinsed from the hair. The process was repeated six times (i.e., treatment 1 was performed six times).
[0306] Treatment 2: 0.4 g of the inventive composition D was applied to strands of hair, massaged into the hair for 30 seconds, and then left on the hair for 30 seconds. After 30 seconds, the inventive composition was rinsed from the hair. The process was repeated six times (i.e., treatment 2 was carried out six times).
[0307] Treatment 3: 0.4 g of the inventive composition D was applied to strands of hair, massaged into the hair for 30 seconds, and then left on the hair for 30 seconds. After 30 seconds, the inventive composition D was rinsed from the hair. Then, 0.4 g of a standard shampoo was applied to the strands of hair, massaged into the hair for 30 seconds, and then left on the hair for 30 seconds. After 30 seconds, the shampoo was rinsed from the hair. After rinsing the shampoo, 0.4 g of a standard conditioner was applied to the strands of hair, and then massaged into the hair for 30 seconds. After 30 seconds, the conditioner was rinsed from the hair. The process was repeated six times (i.e., treatment 3 was carried out six times).
[0308] After being subjected to one of the three treatments described above, the hair strands were dried for 2 minutes using a hair dryer set to medium heat. The hair fibers were periodically separated with the fingers during drying. After being dried, the hair strands were stored at 60% relative humidity (60%) overnight.
[0309] After being stored overnight, hair fibers were randomly selected from each hair strand for testing. The hair fibers were analyzed using a Dia-Stron Mini-Tensometer (MTT) to determine stress at break, Young's modulus, and elongation at break. Hair properties are a direct consequence of its composite structure; therefore, changes in stress at break, Young's modulus, and elongation at break represent a change in the hair structure. A conventional approach for Evaluating hair properties involves generating stress-strain curves by performing constant-rate elongation experiments, from which information about the hair structure is obtained. [Fig.l] is an example of a stress-strain curve identifying Young's modulus, plateau stress, breaking force, and elongation at break.
[0310] Breaking stress represents the force / area required to break the hair fiber. A higher breaking stress corresponds to a stronger fiber. For reference, the typical breaking stress in the dry state for healthy, unbleached hair is approximately 0.022 gmf / square micron.
[0311] Young's modulus is the slope of the initial portion of the stress-strain curve (see [Fig.l]), which is fitted in terms of cross-sectional area. It is a measure of the "elastic" properties of the hair. The Young's modulus region is sometimes referred to as the "linear" or "elastic" region of the curve.
[0312] Elongation at break is the percentage of elongation of the hair fibers at the breaking point.
[0313] Box plots were generated using Statistica™, while JMP™ analytical software was used to calculate statistics (Student's t-test at a 95% confidence level).
[0314] The results of the breaking stress (gmf / square micron) for European medium brown hair are provided in the table below and shown in [Fig.2].
[0315] [Tables3] Breaking stress (gmf / square micron) Average European brown hair Treatment N Mean Standard deviation Standard error of the mean Differences* Treatment 2 50 0.0199 0.00146 0.000206 A Treatment 1 50 0.0187 0.00227 0.000321 B Treatment 3 50 0.0185 0.00171 0.000242 B
[0316] *Levels not attached to the same letter are significantly different.
[0317] The results show that European medium brown hair treated with Treatment 2 was statistically different from hair treated with Treatments 1 and 3. Hair treated with Treatment 2 had statistically higher breaking strain results.
[0318] Young's modulus results for European medium brown hair are provided in the table below and shown in [Fig.3].
[0319] [Tables4] Young's Modulus Average European Brown Hair Treatment N Mean Standard Deviation Standard Error of the Mean Differences* Treatment 1 50 4.31E+09 3.19E+08 4.52E+07 A Treatment 2 50 4.16E+09 3.29E+08 4.66E+07 B Treatment 3 50 4.17E+09 2.95E+08 4.17E+07 B
[0320] *Levels not attached to the same letter are significantly different.
[0321] The results show that European medium brown hair treated according to the Treatment 1 was statistically different from hair treated with Treatments 2 and 3.
[0322] The elongation at break results (% strain) for European medium brown hair are provided in the table below and shown in [Fig.4].
[0323] [Tables5] Elongation at break (% strain) Average European brown hair Treatment N Mean Standard deviation Standard error of the mean Differences* Treatment 3 50 62.1 8.04 1.137 A Treatment 2 50 57.5 5.88 0.832 B Treatment 1 50 57.1 6.41 0.906 B
[0324] *Levels that are not attached to the same letter are significantly different.
[0325] The results show that European medium brown hair treated according to Treatment 3 is statistically different from hair treated according to Treatments 1 and 2. Hair treated according to Treatment 3 had a statistically higher elongation at break.
[0326] The breaking stress results (gmf / square micron) for curly multi-ethnic brown hair are provided in the table below and shown in [Fig.5].
[0327] [Tableauxô] Breaking stress (gmf / square micron) Multiethnic brown curly hair Treatment N Mean Standard deviation Standard error of the mean Differences* Treatment 3 50 0.0195 0.000996 0.000141 A Treatment 2 50 0.0188 0.001386 0.000196 B Treatment 1 50 0.0185 0.001930 0.000273 B
[0328] *Levels not attached to the same letter are significantly different.
[0329] The results show that multi-ethnic curly hair treated according to Treatment 3 was statistically different from hair treated according to Treatments 1 and 2. Hair treated according to Treatment 3 showed a statistically higher breaking strain.
[0330] The Young's modulus for curly multi-ethnic brown hair is given in the table below and shown in [Fig.6].
[0331] [Tables?] Young's Modulus Multiethnic Curly Brown Hair Treatment N Mean Standard Deviation Standard Error of the Mean Differences* Treatment 1 50 4.31E+09 2.65E+08 37492432 A Treatment 3 50 4.27E+09 2.60E+08 36729080 AB Treatment 2 50 4.18E+09 4.37E+08 61843278 B
[0332] *Levels not attached to the same letter are significantly different.
[0333] [Tables8] Elongation at break (% strain) Multiethnic brown curly hair Treatment N Mean Standard deviation Standard error of the mean Differences* Treatment 3 50 56.0 4.58 0.648 A Treatment 2 50 53.4 6.18 0.874 B Treatment 1 50 51.5 5.07 0.718 B
[0334] *Levels not attached to the same letter are significantly different.
[0335] The results show that multi-ethnic curly hair treated according to treatment 3 is statistically different from hair treated according to treatments 1 and 2. Hair treated according to treatment 3 has a statistically higher elongation at break. Example 3 (Cyclic fatigue test)
[0336] Inventive composition D was subjected to a cyclic fatigue test. Strands of heavily bleached European hair were used for the test (2.7 g, 27 cm). Two different hair braids were used for each treatment group. 25 fibers were taken from each of the two braids (50 fibers in total per treatment group) for testing. Each pair of braids was treated with either shampoo (control) or inventive composition D, shampoo and conditioner (inventive treatment), as described below.
[0337] Control: 0.4 g of a standard shampoo was applied to the hair strands, massaged into the hair for 30 seconds, and then left on the hair for 30 seconds. After 30 seconds, the shampoo was rinsed from the hair. The process was repeated 10 times.
[0338] Inventive treatment: 0.4 g of the inventive composition D was applied to strands of hair, massaged into the hair for 30 seconds, and then left on the hair for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes, the inventive composition D was rinsed from the hair. Then, 0.4 g of a standard shampoo was applied to the strands of hair, massaged into the hair for 30 seconds, and then left on the hair for 30 seconds. After 30 seconds, the shampoo was rinsed from the hair. After rinsing the shampoo, 0.4 g of a standard conditioner was applied to the strands of hair, and then massaged into the hair for 30 seconds. After 30 seconds, the conditioner was rinsed from the hair. The process was repeated 10 times.
[0339] After being subjected to one of the two treatments described above, the hair braids were dried for 2 minutes using a hair dryer set to medium heat. The hair fibers were periodically separated from each other with the fingers during drying. After being dried, the hair strands were stored at 60% relative humidity (60%) overnight.
[0340] After being stored overnight, hair fibers were randomly selected from each hair braid for testing. The hair fibers were subjected to a cyclic tensile fatigue test (CTF) using a Dia-Stron Mini Tensiometer (MTT). CTF is a method for determining fiber durability. CTF was conducted in constant stress mode (using the plateau stress obtained with the MTT), and a Kaplan- Meier was performed using SPSS software. Hair strands treated with the inventive treatment required more cycles to break than hair strands treated with the control treatment. This illustrates that treatment with inventive composition D improves hair durability and that multiple treatments further improve hair durability.
[0341] The results are shown in the table below and presented graphically in [Fig.8].
[0342] [Tables9] Cyclic tensile fatigue test Treatment Average cycles before failure Witness 4720 Inventive treatment 7379
[0343] The results show a statistically significant improvement in strength (more cycles required before breakage) for hair treated with inventive composition D compared to the control. Definitions
[0344] The following definitions are in addition to those presented throughout this disclosure.
[0345] As used herein, the terms "comprising," "having," and "including" (or "comprise," "have," and "include") are used in their open and non-limiting sense. The phrase "consisting essentially of" limits the scope of a claim to the specified materials or steps and to those that do not materially affect the fundamental and novel features of the claimed invention.
[0346] . Throughout the disclosure, the expression "a mixture thereof" is used, after a list of elements as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the elements: "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, or mixtures thereof." The phrase "a mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase "one or more elements selected from A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F."
[0347] Similarly, the term "a salt thereof" also refers to "salts thereof." Thus, where the disclosure refers to "an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or mixtures thereof,” it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.
[0348] Salts cited throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions is not, however, limiting.
[0349] The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0350] The term “plurality” means “more than one” or “two or more.”
[0351] Some of the various categories of components identified may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and the product composition includes two (or more than two) overlapping components, an overlapping component does not represent more than one component, e.g., a component such as a fatty ester may fall within the definition of both a "fatty compound" and a "surfactant / emulsifier." If a particular composition or product requires both a fatty compound component and a surfactant / emulsifier component, a single fatty ester may only serve as the sole fatty compound or sole surfactant / emulsifier (a single fatty ester cannot serve as both a fatty compound and a surfactant / emulsifier).
[0352] All percentages, parts and ratios stated herein are based on weight, in particular, the total weight of the instant hair treatment compositions of the invention, unless otherwise indicated.
[0353] An "alkyl radical" is a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, in particular CrC8, more particularly C1-C6, more preferably C1-C4, such as methyl, ethyl, isopropyl and tert-butyl;
[0354] An “alkoxy radical” is an alkyloxy in which the alkyl is as described above;
[0355] An “alkenyl radical” is a group based on an unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon, in particular C2-C8, more particularly C2-C6, preferably C2-C4, such as ethylenyl, propylenyl;
[0356] An “alkylene radical” is a divalent, linear or branched, C1-C8, in particular C1-C6, preferably C1-C4, saturated hydrocarbon-based group, such as methylene, ethylene or propylene.
[0357] All ranges and values described herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein may serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub- ranges, etc. Furthermore, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within given ranges, as well as any combination of subranges in between. Thus, a range of 1-5 specifically includes points 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.; and points 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 include ranges and subranges of 1-5, 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.
[0358] The term "surfactants" includes salts of surfactants, even if not explicitly mentioned. In other words, whenever the disclosure refers to a surfactant, it is understood that salts of the surfactant are also included to the extent that such salts exist, even though the specification may not specifically refer to a salt (or may not refer to a salt in every instance throughout the disclosure), for example, by using language such as "a salt thereof" or "salts thereof." Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts with surfactants. However, other cations, such as ammonium ions or alkanolammonium ions, such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions, may also form surfactant salts.
[0359] The term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that the specific material may be present in small amounts that do not materially affect the fundamental and novel features of the claimed invention, for example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions (provided that an amount less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the fundamental and novel features of the claimed invention). Similarly, the compositions may include less than 2% by weight, less than 1.5% by weight, less than 1% by weight, less than 0.5% by weight, less than 0.1% by weight, less than 0.05% by weight, or less than 0.01% by weight, or none of the specified material.The term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein may also mean that the specific material is not added to the composition but may still be present in a starting material that is included in the composition.
[0360] Furthermore, any components that are positively presented in the present disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, e.g., a claimed composition may be "free," "essentially free" (or "substantially free") of one or more components that are positively presented in the present disclosure.
[0361] .
Claims
Claims
1. A hair treatment composition comprising: (a) 0.25 to 10% by weight of a combination of citric acid and one or more citric acid salts, wherein the weight ratio of citric acid to citric acid salts added to form the combination is from 1:10 to 10:1, alternatively, however, the hair treatment composition comprises 1 to 10% by weight of a combination of citric acid and one or more citric acid salts, wherein the weight ratio of citric acid to citric acid salts added to form the combination is from 1:10 to 10:1; (b) one or more surfactants with at least one of the one or more surfactants selected from nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, or a combination thereof; and (c) water; (d) 1 to 15% by weight of the fatty alcohol(s); and (e) 1 to 10% by weight of one or more fatty compounds other than fatty alcohols;wherein the weight ratio of (d) to (e) is from 4:1 to 8:1; wherein the pH of the composition is from 3 to 10; and the weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition.;
2. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one of the one or more surfactants of (b) is a cationic surfactant.
3. A hair treatment composition according to claim 2, wherein at least one of the cationic surfactants is selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleylhydroxyethylimidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-pro-pyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethylethylamine, arachidamidoethydimethylamine- ethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
4. A hair treatment composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising: (f) one or more water-soluble solvents, preferably one or more water-soluble solvents selected from glycerin, C1-6 monohydric alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof.
5. A hair treatment composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising: (g) one or more non-ionic thickening polymers, preferably one or more non-ionic thickening polymers selected from guar gum, guar derivatives, cellulose gum, cellulose derivatives, starch, starch derivatives, polysaccharides, polysaccharide derivatives, ethylene oxide homopolymers and copolymers having a molar mass equal to or greater than 10,000 g / mol, polyvinyl alcohols, vinyl pyrrolidone homopolymers and copolymers, vinylcaprolactam homopolymers and copolymers, polyvinyl methyl ether homopolymers and copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
6. A hair treatment composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising: (h) one or more conditioning agents selected from cationic polymers, silicones, and a mixture thereof, preferably one or more cationic polymers selected from cationic cellulose derivatives (e.g., polyquaternium-10), quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose, cationic starch derivatives, cationic guar gum derivatives, cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates, quaternary diammonium polymers, copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride, polyquaterniums (e.g., polyquaternium-10), and a mixture thereof.
7. The hair treatment composition of claim 6 comprising one or more silicones selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl tri-methicone, amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, and a mixture thereof.
8. A method of treating hair comprising applying to the hair a hair treatment composition according to any one of the above claims and optionally, rinsing the hair treatment composition after it has been applied to the hair for a period of 30 seconds to 5 minutes or optionally, allowing the composition to remain on the hair after application without rinsing the hair and the hair is styled.