Cosmetic use of a combination of immortelle extracts to reduce the visibility of skin pores

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a combination of immortelle extracts, namely an essential oil of immortelle and a subcritical water extract of immortelle distillers' grains, to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or tighten skin pores.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic use of a combination of immortelle extracts to reduce the visibility of skin pores. FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a combination of immortelle extracts, namely an essential oil of immortelle and a subcritical water extract of immortelle distillers' grains, to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or tighten skin pores. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Pores are small openings on the surface of the skin, whose physiological role is to allow the excretion of sweat and sebum.

[0003] They communicate with the sebaceous glands, often via a hair follicle ending in a single, very short excretory duct. The sebaceous glands are located in the dermis, which is a connective tissue composed of an extracellular matrix (ECM) containing fibrous proteins (collagen, elastin), glycosaminoglycans, and proteoglycans, as well as cells such as fibroblasts. The excretory duct of the sebaceous glands reaches the surface of the epidermis. The dermis and epidermis are separated from each other by a basement membrane that forms the dermo-epidermal junction. This junction is a complex structure in which type IV collagen is a major component.With age, the degradation of type I collagen, the major component of the extracellular matrix (ECM), leads to a weakening of the ECM, which then performs its supporting role less effectively. This results in a deformation of the excretory ducts and consequently, enlarged pores. Furthermore, the age-related decrease in type IV collagen leads to alterations in the basement membrane, which tends to flatten, and induces enlarged pores that become more visible.

[0004] Pore dilation can also have other causes than skin aging and in particular originate from inadequate hygiene, climatic or ethnic factors or excess sebum.

[0005] In the latter case, the pores are more dilated on the face and in particular in the T zone (forehead, nose, chin), especially in the area of ​​the nose, and may be accentuated by an increase in the width of the conical portion around the pore and / or a state of parakeratosis of the stratum corneum at the level of this conical portion, itself sometimes linked to an excessive secretion of sebum and unsaturated fatty acids.

[0006] This imperfection is often perceived negatively, insofar as it does not convey an image of healthy skin.

[0007] It is therefore understandable that it would be useful to have a means of reducing the unsightly dilation of skin pores.

[0008] To this end, camouflage techniques have already been proposed, such as the use of makeup compositions that may contain inorganic powders or polymers. However, these compositions tend to clog pores, thus generating other imperfections such as blackheads.

[0009] Another solution involves applying astringent lotions to the skin, which may contain aluminum salts, hydroalcoholic solutions, combinations of retinoids and hydroxycarboxylic acids, or parakeratosis inhibitors such as glycine derivatives. However, these substances are known to be irritating to the skin.

[0010] To reduce the visibility of pores, several medical techniques have also been proposed, including the use of pulsed light, medical light-emitting diodes (LEDs), lasers and chemical peels.

[0011] There therefore remains a need for a means to visibly reduce pores, which is as effective as those known, but does not have their disadvantages, that is to say in particular which does not cause skin irritations.

[0012] The Applicant has already proposed compositions based on ingredients of natural origin that are effective for this purpose.

[0013] Thus, document FR3003167 (M&L) describes a cosmetic composition containing three different extracts of immortelle, including an essential oil and an aqueous extract, as well as an essential oil of myrtle. This composition is notably considered by a panel of users to be effective in reducing the appearance of pores.

[0014] US patent application US2011 / 159125 (Avon) describes a CGRP stimulator, which can be selected from numerous plant extracts, including essential oils, notably an extract of Helichrysum gymnocephalum. These extracts are presented as being useful as anti-aging agents, particularly for reducing pore size. However, it has not been demonstrated that an essential oil of Helichrysum gymnocephalum actually reduces pore size. In addition, such an essential oil differs from that used in the present invention by the absence of neryl acetate (S. Afoulous et al., Molécules 2011, 16, 8273-8291) which is instead present in a quantity of at least 30% in the essential oil of Helichrysum italicum, in particular of Corsican origin (A. Bianchini et al., Flavour and Fragrance Journal, 2001; 16:30-34).

[0015] There remains, however, a need for effective natural-origin active ingredients to visibly reduce pores.

[0016] The Applicant has now demonstrated, quite surprisingly, that a particular combination of immortelle extracts made it possible to achieve this objective, even at low concentrations, while being well tolerated. Summary of the invention

[0017] The invention specifically relates to the cosmetic use of an association of an essential oil of immortelle and an extract of immortelle spent grains obtained by subcritical water extraction of the spent grains, to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or tighten skin pores.

[0018] It also relates to a cosmetic process for reducing the visibility of skin pores and / or tightening skin pores, comprising the topical application to the skin of a cosmetic composition containing a combination of an essential oil of immortelle and an extract of immortelle spent grains obtained by subcritical water extraction of the spent grains. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0019] The present invention uses an essential oil of immortelle and an extract of immortelle distillers' grains.

[0020] Among the immortelle species that can be used to prepare the essential oil and the distillers' grains extract, mention should be made of all those belonging to the genus Helichrysum, and in particular Helichrysum italicum (or Helichrysum angustifolium DC), which is notably the Italian or Corsican immortelle, Helichrysum sumarenarium, which is the sand immortelle, and Helichrysum stoechas or common immortelle, without this list being exhaustive. Preferably, an essential oil of Helichrysum italicum is used, for example, of the subspecies italicum or microphyllum, advantageously of Corsican origin.

[0021] In this description, "essential oil" means the product of hydrodistillation or steam distillation of volatile organic compounds present in any part of the immortelle or the whole plant, and more particularly in its aerial parts such as its flowers or flowering tops (i.e., the flowers and a few centimeters of stem). In these processes, the fragrant molecules contained in the plant are released and mechanically carried along with the steam, which is either formed by boiling the water to which the plant is added (conventional hydrodistillation), or formed by boiling the water contained in the plant (microwave hydrodistillation, possibly under vacuum), or supplied by a boiler and circulated through the plant (steam distillation).The distillate is then decanted to separate the essential oil used according to the invention from the hydrosol (or floral water). The solid residue constituting the spent grains can be recovered and processed to prepare the immortelle spent grain extract also used in the present invention.

[0022] The essential oil of Helichrysum italicum of Corsican origin preferably used according to the invention contains, as a main constituent, neryl acetate, which generally represents at least 30% by weight of the total constituents of the essential oil, as measured by gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry analysis (GC-MS).

[0023] In this composition, immortelle essential oil is combined with an extract of immortelle distillers' grains. By "distillers' grains" is meant the solid residue remaining after hydrodistillation or steam distillation of any part of the immortelle plant, preferably its flowering tops, and separation of the essential oil and hydrosol produced.

[0024] This extract of immortelle distillers' grains is characterized by the fact that it contains flavonol heterosides whose B ring is dihydroxylated.

[0025] Flavonoids constitute a class of polyphenols containing the following skeleton:

[0026] [Chem.l] 4

[0027] They can themselves be subdivided into different categories according to the carbon of the ring C on which the ring B is fixed, the presence or not of one or more unsaturations on the ring C and / or of an oxo group in position 4 and / or of a hydroxyl group in position 3 of the ring C.

[0028] Flavonols constitute a class of flavonoids which corresponds precisely to the following structure:

[0029] [Chem.2]

[0030] Among these are, in particular, unsubstituted flavonols on the B ring, such as baicalein, mono-hydroxylated flavonols on the B ring, such as kaempferol, and di-hydroxylated flavonols on the B ring, such as quercetin and quercetagetin.

[0031] The Applicant has demonstrated, by gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry, that the immortelle distillers' grains extract according to the invention is characterized by the presence of flavonol glycosides whose B ring is dihydroxylated, which do not appear in other aqueous extracts, obtained in particular by using Water at ambient pressure and temperature is used as the sole extraction solvent. These flavonol glycosides generally comprise at least one quercetagenin glycoside, particularly an O-hexoside, at least one quercetin glycoside, especially a quercetin-O-hexoside-O-rhamnoside, or mixtures thereof. Typically, the helichrysum distillers' grains extract used according to the invention contains at least 30 pg / ml of flavonol glycosides with a dihydroxylated B ring.

[0032] The immortelle distillers' extract used according to the invention further contains chlorogenic acid and leontopodic acid B, in a weight ratio of flavonol heterosides whose ring B is dihydroxylated with chlorogenic acid of between 0.05:1 and 1:1, preferably from 0.1:1 to 0.5:1 and in a weight ratio of flavonol heterosides whose ring B is dihydroxylated with leontopodic acid B of between 0.05:1 and 1:1, preferably from 0.1:1 to 0.5:1.

[0033] Furthermore, the immortelle distillers' extract used according to the invention generally contains less than 100 ppm of volatile compounds detectable by gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry. These volatile compounds contain more than 30% ketones, generally more than 35% ketones, in particular more than 25% diketones, generally more than 30% diketones. The diketones include, in particular, italidiones, 4-methyl-3,5-decanedione, 2,4-dimethylheptane-3,5-dione, 3,5-dimethyloctane-4,6-dione, 7-ethyl-4,6-undecanedione, and ethyl dodecanedione. The volatile compounds of the distillers' grains extract according to the invention also contain less than 2%, generally less than 1%, of nerol.

[0034] The extract of immortelle distillers' grains can be obtained by a process comprising the subcritical water extraction of immortelle distillers' grains. This process is advantageously carried out dynamically, by percolating subcritical water through the distillers' grains arranged in an autoclave, generally of the tubular type. The distillers' grains can be in dry or fresh form and may or may not be ground. Dried and ground distillers' grains are advantageously used. The passage time r of the subcritical water is preferably between 10 and 20 minutes, preferably between 11 and 17 minutes, for example approximately 15 minutes, as measured according to the following formula: r = V / Q, where V is the volume of the autoclave and Q is the flow rate of the subcritical water. The flow rate Q can for example be between 1 and 4 ml / ml, preferably between 2 and 3 ml / min.

[0035] The water temperature and pressure are chosen so as to maintain the water in a subcritical state, more particularly to maintain the water in a liquid state at a temperature above 100°C. An extraction temperature between 120 and 175°C, preferably between 150 and 175°C, for example 150°C, and a pressure of 10 to 60 bar, preferably 20 to 60 bar, for example approximately 30 bar. In any case, the water is kept below the critical point, corresponding to the temperature / pressure combination of 374°C / 220 bar. Above this point, the water reaches a supercritical state. This process can, for example, be carried out for a total duration of 25 to 100 minutes.

[0036] The distillers' grain extract thus obtained is optionally solubilized in a solvent, such as glycerol, before being incorporated into the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0037] The combination of immortelle extracts according to the invention is included in a cosmetic composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular a cosmetically acceptable one, i.e., one that does not generate stinging or redness incompatible with cosmetic use. This medium generally contains an oily phase and an aqueous phase. Preferably, the composition should be in the form of an emulsion, particularly of the oil-in-water or water-in-oil type.

[0038] When present, the aqueous phase contains water and optionally at least one constituent selected from among polyols and aqueous gelling agents. Water advantageously represents 40 to 80%, for example 50 to 70%, of the total weight of the composition. The polyol may, in particular, be selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, and may represent 5 to 30% of the total weight of the composition.

[0039] By "aqueous gelling agent" is meant a polymeric compound capable of immobilizing water molecules by hydrating itself and thus increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase. Such a gelling agent may be chosen from: polysaccharides, such as: cellulose and its derivatives, modified starches, carrageenan, agar agar, xanthan gum and vegetable gums such as guar or locust bean gum; synthetic polymers and in particular sodium acrylate homopolymers possibly crosslinked, as well as acrylic copolymers, in particular sodium acrylate and / or alkyl (meth)acrylate and / or hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylate and / or (polyethoxy)alkyl (meth)acrylate copolymers, possibly with at least one other monomer, advantageously 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), these copolymers possibly being crosslinked; and mixtures thereof.

[0040] The oil phase, for its part, may comprise one or more volatile and / or non-volatile oils. Examples of volatile oils are branched alkanes, such as isododecane, and linear alkanes in the form of Ci0-Ci3. Examples of non-volatile oils include:

[0041] - acid and mono-alcohol esters selected from: mono- and polyester acids saturated linear C2-C10 (preferably C6-C10) and saturated linear C10-C18 (preferably C10-C14) monoalcohols, mono- and polyesters of saturated linear C10-C20 acids and branched or unsaturated C3-C20 monoalcohols (preferably C3-C10); mono- and polyesters of C5-C20 branched or unsaturated acids and of C5-C20 branched or unsaturated mono-alcohols; mono- and polyesters of C5-C20 branched or unsaturated acids and of C2-C4 linear mono-alcohols;

[0042] - C6-C12 fatty acid triglycerides, such as ca- propylene glycol and capric triheptanoin;

[0043] - branched-chain and / or C10-C20 unsaturated fatty acids (such as oleic and li- noleic);

[0044] - branched and / or C10-C20 unsaturated fatty alcohols (such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol);

[0045] - hydrocarbons such as squalane (C30), in particular plant-derived squalane olive oil, and hemisqualane (Cl5);

[0046] - dialkyl carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate and diethylhexyl carbonate;

[0047] - dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether; and

[0048] - their mixtures.

[0049] We can also mention vegetable oils which contain one or more of the aforementioned constituents.

[0050] Examples of acid and monoalcohol esters include monoesters such as the mixture of coco caprate and caprylate, ethyl macadamia, shea butter ethyl ester, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, hexyl neopentanoate, ethylhexyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl nonanoate, propylheptyl capylate and mixtures thereof. Other usable esters are acid and monoalcohol diesters such as disopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate and diisoamyl sebacate.

[0051] Examples of vegetable oils include wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, argan oil, hibiscus oil, coriander oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, lavender oil, borage oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil, Echium oil, camelina oil or camellia oil.

[0052] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one active ingredient selected from desquamating agents, soothing agents, antimicrobial agents, antiseborrheic agents, and mixtures thereof. Alternatively or in addition, the composition may comprise at least one active ingredient selected from probiotics, such as a bacterium of the genus Lactobacillus or Bifidobacterium; prebiotics, such as beta-glucan, inulin, a-galactooligosaccharides and fructooligosaccharides; and mixtures thereof.

[0053] The desquamating agent may, in particular, be selected from among beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid or an acylated derivative of salicylic acid, in particular a 5-acyl-salicylic acid such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid and n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid, in free or salified form, in particular in the form of salts obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base. Salicylic acid may also be used in the form of a plant extract, in particular from wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens) containing it.Other usable desquamating agents include alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic, or mandelic acids; polyhydroxy acids; gentisic acid or its esters, particularly tocopheryl gentisate; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; certain jasmonic acid derivatives; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine; and mixtures thereof. In particular, salicylic acid can be used.

[0054] Examples of soothing agents include panthenol, allantoin, beta-glycyrrhetinic acid, extracts containing it (such as an extract of Glycyrrhiza glabrd), plankton and their extracts, escin and plant extracts containing it (in particular horse chestnut), aqueous, hydroalcoholic or hydroglycolic extracts of rose, cornflower, chamomile, linden, peony, hawthorn, mallow, calendula, sweet clover, sage, elderberry, arnica, oregano, green tea, iris, water lily, birch bark, orange blossom or aloe vera, asiatic acid and extracts containing it (in particular Centella asialica), extracts of Laminaria-type algae, zinc or copper pyrrolidone carboxylate, essential oils of coriander, lemon balm, lavender, mint or chamomile, ursolic acid and extracts containing it (notably rosemary), sunflower unsaponifiables, polysaccharides containing fucose, amino acids,their salts and acylated derivatives, galactolipids and plant extracts (particularly oat extracts) containing them, acexamic acid, tranexamic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0055] Examples of antimicrobial agents include undecylenic acid and its salts, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, octopirox, octoxyglycerin, caprylyl glycol, octanoyl glycine, farnesol, phyto-phingosines, and mixtures thereof.

[0056] Finally, antiseborrheic agents include, in particular, zinc salts, such as zinc gluconate, pidolate or zinc lactate; selenium chloride; pyridoxine or vitamin B6; capryloyl glycine, possibly in a mixture with sarcosine and an extract of Cinammomum zeylanicum as in the product Sepicontrol® A5 from SEPPIC; a plant extract, in particular of rose (Rosa canina or Rosa multiflora), Laminaria saccharina, Spirea ulmaria, Hypericum perforatum, Eugenia caryo-phyllata, A'Humulus lupus, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia officinalis, Thymus vulgaris, lentil (Lens esculentd), Enantia chlorantha or Serenoa repens or the genus Silybum; and their mixtures.

[0057] These additional active ingredients may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 10%, even more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] The composition according to the invention may further contain different constituents which may be dispersed in the oily phase and / or in the aqueous phase, provided that these are compatible with topical application on the skin.

[0059] It may thus contain at least one oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsifier, generally non-ionic, such as polyoxyethylene esters, sorbitan esters (possibly polyethoxylated), fatty acid and glycerol esters (possibly polyethoxylated), fatty alcohol and sugar ethers such as alkyl glucosides, sugar esters, particularly sucrose esters, and mixtures thereof. The emulsifiers may represent from 2 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

[0060] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more powdered fillers, which advantageously take the form of porous or hollow microparticles. These fillers are preferably porous in order to absorb sebum and thus mattify the skin. They are generally substantially spherical. These fillers may, in particular, be selected from:

[0061] - organic fillers such as: polysaccharide powders and in particular native starch, modified starch or cellulose; acrylic polymer powders such as poly(methyl methacrylate), polyamides or polyolefins; dried seaweed powders such as Corallina officinalis;

[0062] - inorganic fillers such as silica, clays, perlite and talc;

[0063] - and their mixtures.

[0064] As an inorganic filler, silica is preferred to be used.

[0065] These fillers can represent from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] The composition according to the invention may further include additives selected in particular from perfumes; sequestering agents; pH adjusters; preservatives; pigments; colorants; and mixtures thereof.

[0067] This composition may be in any form suitable for topical application to the skin, and in particular in the form of a milk, cream, fluid, lotion, gel, paste, or film. It is generally a leave-on composition and in particular a skin care composition.

[0068] Alternatively, the composition according to the invention may be a rinse-off composition used for skincare, particularly facial skincare. In this case, it may, for example, be used as a mask or as an exfoliating paste.

[0069] The combination of immortelle extracts according to the invention is adapted and intended to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or tighten skin pores. This expression refers to the reduction of the pore opening diameter and / or pore density and / or pore surface area relative to the skin surface. Pore visibility can be assessed in vivo by scoring, or using an image analysis device that allows the extraction and quantification of specific measurement parameters (surface area, density, in particular) from high-resolution photographs of volunteers' faces, the scoring or image analysis being carried out before and after application of a composition containing the combination according to the invention, as illustrated in the Examples below.

[0070] The cosmetic composition can be applied to the skin of individuals with enlarged pores, whether or not associated with oily skin and / or signs of skin aging. It is generally applied to at least one area of ​​the face, particularly the T-zone, i.e., the forehead, nose, and chin, and / or the cheeks. This composition can be applied once or several times a day, for example, morning and / or evening.

[0071] In any event, the combination of immortelle extracts according to the invention is applied to the skin in sufficient quantity to reduce the visibility of pores. For example, a quantity of 0.5 to 5 mg / cm² of cosmetic composition can be applied daily to the area of ​​skin concerned.

[0072] This advantageously contains:

[0073] - from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, of distillers' grains extract of immortelle, and

[0074] - from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 1% by weight, and more preferably containing approximately 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of immortelle essential oil,

[0075] in relation to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. EXAMPLES

[0076] The invention will be better understood in the light of the following examples, which are given purely for illustrative purposes and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention, as defined by the attached claims.

[0077] Example 1: Preparation and characterization of extracts - Comparison with an aqueous extract 1.1 - Preparation of extracts

[0078] a) Immortelle essential oil

[0079] Flowering tops of Helichrysum italicum from Corsica were subjected to a conventional hydrodistillation process to recover, on the one hand, an essential oil and a hydrosol and, on the other hand, a residue. The essential oil was then separated from the hydrosol in a conventional manner.

[0080] b) Extract of immortelle distillers' grains

[0081] Immortelle spent grains, consisting of the hydrodistillation residue obtained after the extraction of the essential oil described above, were used. These spent grains were subjected to subcritical water extraction by percolation of hot water under pressure in a reactor containing the dried and ground spent grains.

[0082] The extract thus obtained was diluted in glycerin in a weight ratio of 45:55.

[0083] c) Aqueous extract of immortelle

[0084] For comparison purposes, an aqueous extract of immortelle was prepared by maceration in water at 50°C of the flowering tops of immortelle of the species Helichrysum italicum, in a plant / water ratio of 10% by weight. 1.2 - Characterization

[0085] a) Comparison between distillers' grains extract and an aqueous extract of immortelle Material

[0086] - Ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography (Agilent Technologies, USA)

[0087] - Automatic injector 1290 series

[0088] - 1260 series diode array detector (DAD)

[0089] - Mass Spectrometer: Esquire 6000 (Bruker Daltonics, Bremen) equipped with a Electrospray ionization source (ESI). Sample preparation

[0090] - The aqueous extract was diluted 10th in a MeOH / H2O (50 / 50) mixture. - The distillers' grain extract according to the invention was diluted 1 / 2 in a MeOH / H2O (50 / 50) mixture. Method of analysis

[0091] The solutions obtained after dilution / extraction were filtered through a PTFE filter (0.45 µm) and then injected (IpL) onto an Agilent C18 column (2.1 mm x 100 mm; 1.8 µm) at a temperature maintained at 25 °C and a flow rate of 0.4 mL / min. The following solvents were used: A = H₂O / HCOOH (0.1%) and B = ACN / HCOOH (0.1%). The elution gradient of the polyphenols was as follows:

[0092] [Tables 1] Time (min.) % Solvent B 0 5 2 18.3 6 29 6.5 31.7 9.5 38.3 11.5 71 15 95 16 100 17 100 17.2 5 20.2 5

[0093] At the output of the diode array detector, the eluent was injected into the mass spectrometer. The analyses were carried out in negative or positive mode.

[0094] LC-MS spectra were acquired over the entire mass range (m / z) from 100 to 1400. All the data were then collected and processed by Hystar® software version 3.0. Results

[0095] [Tables2] Compound Invention (pg / ml) Aqueous Extract (pg / ml) Chlorogenic Acid Isomer 80.7 + 0.7 28.0 + 1.0 Chlorogenic Acid 102.9 + 0.5 9.6 + 0.3 Dicafeoyl Glucaric Acid 73.3 + 0.4 2.4 + 0.1 Caffeic Acid 18.8 + 0.9 38.1 + 0.3 Quercetagatetin-O-hexoside 29.1 ± 0.3 nd Flavonoid-O-hexoside 19.3 ± 0.3 nd Dicafeoyl Quinic Acid 105.0 + 1.2 nd Dicafeoyl Quinic Acid 31.3 + 0.7 <LQ Acide dicaféoyl quinique 193,2 + 2,1 <LQ Acide dicaféoyl quinique 268,5 + 3,2 n.d Acide léontopodique B 54,5 + 1,0 n.d Isomère d’acide léontopodique B 66,7 + 1,1 n.d Isomère d’acide léontopodique B 13,8 + 0,1 n.d Quercétine-O-hexoside-O-rham noside 4,85 ± 0,03 n.d Arzanol 12,2 + 0,2 n.d Méthylarzanol 0,17 + 0,02 n.d Diméthylarzanol n.d Hydroxytrémétone Présence

[0096] nd: not detected; <LQ : détecté mais inférieur à la limite de quantification

[0097] As can be seen from this table, the distillers' grains extract used according to the invention is ca It is characterized by a high content of flavonoid heterosides, particularly dihydroxylated O-hexosides of flavonols on ring B. They are also richer in chlorogenic acid and dicaffeoylquinic acid than the aqueous extracts. Furthermore, it has been confirmed by liquid chromatography and mass spectrometry that the "flavonoid O-hexoside" does not correspond to any of the other compounds mentioned above.

[0098] b) Comparison with an immortelle hydrosol Operating procedure

[0099] The phenolic compounds present in the hydrosol obtained at Lia) were analyzed by high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (UPLC-DAD-MS) using an Agilent Technologies chromatograph equipped with an Esquire 6000 mass spectrometer (Bruker Daltonics, Bremen) equipped with an Electrospray ionization source (ESI).

[0100] The hydrosol was diluted to 50% in a methanol / water mixture (50 / 50).

[0101] The resulting solution was filtered through a PTFE filter (0.45 µm) and then injected (1 pL) onto an Agilent Cl8 column (2.1 mm x 100 mm; 1.8 µm) at a temperature maintained at 25°C. The solvents used were: A = H2O / HCOOH 0.1% and B = ACN / HCOOH 0.1%, the flow rate was 0.4 mL / min.

[0102] At the output of the diode array detector, the eluent was injected into the mass spectrometer. The analyses were performed in negative or positive mode.

[0103] The data were then collected and processed using Hystar software version 3.0. Results

[0104] It was observed that the hydrosol did not contain Quercetagatetin-O-hexoside or Quercetin-O-hexoside-O-rhamnoside, unlike the distillers' grains extract used according to the invention.

[0105] c) Characterization of the essential oil

[0106] The test described in 1.2b) was reproduced on the essential oil obtained in Lia). To do this, 2 mL of essential oil were dissolved in 1 mL of hexane, and then this oily solution was extracted three times with 2 mL of a methanol / water mixture (60 / 40). The hydroalcoholic phases were combined.

[0107] Here again, it was observed that the essential oil of immortelle did not contain Quercetagetin-O-hexoside or Quercetin-O-hexoside-O-rhamnoside.

[0108] More generally, it has been shown that immortelle essential oil is devoid of polyphenols and contains terpenoids, in particular neryl acetate (more than 30% by weight), eudesmol and curcumene.

[0109] Example 2: Effect of the combination of immortelle extracts according to the invention on pore visibility 2.1 - Materials & Method

[0110] A clinical study was conducted on a panel of 33 healthy adult women, aged 37 to 63 years, with enlarged pores on their cheeks. They were asked to apply the product being studied at home to one half of their face twice a day (morning and evening). A control product was applied to the other half of their face with the same frequency. The side on which the two different formulas were applied applied was defined using specific randomization.

[0111] The tested product consisted of a cosmetic composition containing the combination of immortelle extracts according to the invention (0.5% immortelle distillers' grains extract and 0.03% immortelle essential oil). The control product had the same composition, but without these two extracts. The common formula base for these products had the following composition:

[0112] Hydrophilic gelling agent 1.00%

[0113] Sodium gluconate 0.20%

[0114] Ethylhexylglycerin 0.20%

[0115] Oil 3.00%

[0116] Conservative qs

[0117] Water qsp 100%

[0118] Photographs were taken at various time intervals in an ISO9001 certified investigation center, using the VISIA-CR image acquisition device (supplied by CANFIELD).

[0119] The images were taken precisely:

[0120] - at J0, before the first application of the product,

[0121] - at J28, after 28 days of application (± 2 days),

[0122] - at J56, after 56 days of use (± 2 days).

[0123] To this end, the volunteers were first subjected to a 20-minute acclimatization period at the investigation center, in a room with controlled temperature (22°C ± 2°C) and humidity (45% ± 10%). Photographs were then taken of their entire face (eyes closed) under standard lighting, cross-polarization, and parallel polarization.

[0124] The photographs that were taken were then analyzed, focusing on the pores located on each cheek near the nasolabial fold. The pore volume was analyzed each time the volunteer was photographed. It is defined as the product of the pore area and the pore depth, where the pore area corresponds to the number of pixels in the area considered and the pore depth corresponds to the difference in intensity between the area considered and the surrounding area.

[0125] A statistical analysis of the results was carried out using the Wilcoxon test. 2.2 - Results

[0126] The difference in pore volume after 28 days was compared between the half of the face treated with the composition according to the invention and the half of the face treated with the control composition.

[0127] The measured volume difference was significant (p = 0.041) and observable to the naked eye by the study sponsor.

[0128] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention was well tolerated, with no adverse effects. not having been reported by the volunteers. Example 3: Cosmetic compositions

[0129] The following compositions are prepared in a conventional manner for those skilled in the art, by mixing the ingredients below (identified in capital letters by their INCI names) in the weight proportions indicated. Face cream

[0130] O / W emulsifiers 6.00%

[0131] Fat content 15.00%

[0132] Hydrophilic gelling agents 3.00%

[0133] Polyols 3.50%

[0134] Anti-aging actives 5.50%

[0135] Anti-seborrheic active ingredients 3.00%

[0136] Sodium hydroxide 1.00%

[0137] Immortelle essential oil 0.03%

[0138] Extract of immortelle distillers' grains 0.50%

[0139] Perfumes qs

[0140] Conservatives qs

[0141] Antioxidants qs

[0142] Water qsp 100.00% Serum

[0143] O / W emulsifiers 1.00%

[0144] Fatty matter 8.00%

[0145] Hydrophilic gelling agents 3.00%

[0146] Polyols 6.00%

[0147] Anti-aging actives 5.00%

[0148] Anti-seborrheic active ingredients 4.00%

[0149] Immortelle essential oil 0.04%

[0150] Extract of immortelle distillers' grains 1.00%

[0151] Perfumes qs

[0152] Conservatives qs

[0153] Antioxidants qs

[0154] Eau qsp 100,00 % Masque séborégulateur

[0155] GLYCERIN 10,0 %

[0156] ZINC GLUCONATE 0,2 %

[0157] CETEARYL ALCOHOL & CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 3,0 %

[0158] MYRISTYL ALCOHOL & MYRISTYL GLUCOSIDE 2,0 %

[0159]

[0160]

[0161]

[0162]

[0163]

[0164]

[0165]

[0166]

[0167]

[0168]

[0169]

[0170] OCTYLDODECANOL 3,0 % PENTYLENE GLYCOL 1,0 % SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 0,5 % SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0,3 % ACRYLATE / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0,2 % XANTHAN GUM 0,1 % DISODIUM EDTA 0,1 % Huile essentielle d’immortelle 0,02 % Extrait de drèche d’immortelle 0,4 % Parfum qs AQUA qsp 100 %

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic use of a combination of an essential oil of immortelle of the species Helichrysum italicum and an extract of immortelle distillers of the species Helichrysum italicum obtained by subcritical water extraction of the distillers, to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or tighten skin pores.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract of immortelle distillers contains flavonol heterosides whose B ring is dihydroxylated.

3. Use according to claim 2, characterized in that the immortelle distillers' extract further contains chlorogenic acid and leontopodic acid B, in a weight ratio of flavonol heterosides whose ring B is dihydroxylated with chlorogenic acid of between 0.05:1 and 1:1, preferably from 0.1:1 to 0.5:1 and in a weight ratio of flavonol heterosides whose ring B is dihydroxylated with leontopodic acid B of between 0.05:1 and 1:1, preferably from 0.1:1 to 0.5:

1.

4. Use according to any one of claims 2 and 3, characterized in that the flavonol heterosides comprise at least one heteroside, in particular an O-hexoside, of quercetagenin, at least one quercetin heteroside, in particular a quercetin-O-hexoside-O-rhamnoside, or mixtures thereof.

5. Use according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the immortelle distillers' extract contains at least 30 pg / ml of flavonol glycosides whose B ring is dihydroxylated.

6. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the volatile compounds present in the extract of immortelle distillers contain more than 30% ketones, generally more than 35% ketones, in particular more than 25% diketones, generally more than 30% diketones, and less than 2%, generally less than 1%, of nerol.

7. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the essential oil of immortelle and / or the extract of immortelle grains are derived from immortelle of the species Helichrysum italicum of Corsican origin.

8. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the essential oil of immortelle contains, as a constituent principal, neryl acetate, which represents at least 30% by weight of the total constituents of the essential oil, as measured by gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry analysis (GC-MS).

9. A cosmetic process for reducing the visibility of skin pores and / or tightening skin pores, comprising the topical application to the skin of a cosmetic composition containing a combination of an essential oil of immortelle and an extract of immortelle distillers' grains obtained by subcritical water extraction of the distillers' grains, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8.

10. A cosmetic process according to claim 9, characterized in that the cosmetic composition contains: (a) 0.01 to 5%, preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, of immortelle distillers' grains extract, and (b) 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight, and more preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, of immortelle essential oil, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

11. A method according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin of the face, in particular to the forehead, nose, chin and / or cheeks.