Hair coloring process comprising the application of a composition C comprising a metallic compound
A process combining a metallic compound, alkoxysilane, and film-forming polymer provides a durable hair color that withstands shampoos and external agents, addressing the limitations of existing hair coloring methods.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022002923
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-03-31
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-04
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-03-31
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair coloring methods, particularly temporary and semi-permanent techniques using pigments, fail to provide a homogeneous and durable coloration that withstands shampoos and external agents like sebum and perspiration without damaging the hair.
A process involving the sequential application of a metallic compound, an alkoxysilane, and a film-forming polymer, optionally with a coloring agent, to keratin fibers, forming a resistant colored coating.
The process achieves a visible, durable hair color that remains after shampooing while preserving the hair's physical qualities, resisting brushing and perspiration.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Process for coloring hair comprising the application of a composition C comprising a metallic compound Technical field of the invention
[0001] The present invention relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising a step of applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition C comprising at least one metallic compound, a step of applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition A comprising at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (I'), and at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II), and a step of applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition B comprising at least one film-forming polymer. Said composition A and / or composition B comprise at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof. Steps i), ii) and iii) are carried out successively i), then ii), then iii) or then ii), then i), then iii) or then ii), then iii) then i). Background to the invention
[0002] In the field of coloring keratin fibers, in particular human fibers, it is already known to color keratin fibers by different techniques using direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent colorings or dye precursors for permanent colorings.
[0003] There are basically three types of hair coloring process:
[0004] a) so-called permanent coloring which has the function of bringing about a significant modification of the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate into the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation;
[0005] b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not involve the oxidative condensation process and is resistant to 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing keratin fibers with dyeing compositions containing direct dyes.
[0006] c) temporary coloring which results in a change in the natural color of the hair which lasts from one shampoo to the next and which serves to enhance or correct a shade already obtained. It can also be likened to a “make-up” process.
[0007] For this last type of coloring, it is known to use pigments. Indeed, the use of pigment on the surface of keratin fibers generally makes it possible to obtain visible colorations on dark hair since the surface pigment masks the natural color of the fiber.
[0008] However, the colorations obtained by this coloring method have the disadvantage of having low resistance to shampoos as well as to external agents such as sebum, perspiration, brushing and / or rubbing.
[0009] There therefore remains a need to have a process for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair, which has the advantage of obtaining a homogeneous and smooth colored coating on the hair, while forming a coating that is resistant to shampoos and various attacks that the hair may be subjected to, such as brushing and / or rubbing, without damaging the hair.
[0010] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that all of these objectives can be achieved by the method according to the present invention. Summary of the invention
[0011] The subject of the present invention is a process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising: i) a step of applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition C comprising at least one metallic compound, ii) a step of applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition A comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (!) as described below, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described below, its oligomers and / or their mixtures, and iii) a step of applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition B comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer, composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures; it being understood that steps i), ii) and iii) are carried out successively i), then ii), then iii) or then ii), then i), then iii) or then ii), then iii) then i).
[0012] The present invention also relates to a device for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising several compartments containing: - in a first compartment, a composition A comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (I') as described below, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described below, its oligomers and / or their mixtures, - in a second compartment, a composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer, and
[0013] -in a third compartment, a composition C comprising at least one metallic compound, composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures.
[0014] By using this process, colored coatings are obtained on the hair, making it possible to obtain a visible coloring on all types of hair in a way that remains after shampooing while preserving the physical qualities of the keratin fibers. Such a coating can be resistant to external aggressions that the hair may be subjected to, such as brushing and perspiration.
[0015] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “permanent coloration after shampooing” means that the coloration obtained persists after at least one shampoo.
[0016] The expression “at least one” means one or more.
[0017] Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0018] By “keratin fibers” is meant particularly human keratin fibers such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and body hair, preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, even more preferably hair.
[0019] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" means the hair of the head. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes.
[0020] For the purposes of the present invention, "successive steps" means steps implemented in the order indicated.
[0021] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone" means all organosilicon polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or by polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms.
[0022] For the purposes of the present invention and unless otherwise indicated, - an “alkyl” radical designates a linear or branched, saturated radical, containing for example from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; - an “aminoalkyl” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined previously, said alkyl radical comprising an NH2 group; - a “hydroxyalkyl” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined previously, said alkyl radical comprising an OH group; - an “alkylene” radical denotes a divalent CrCio saturated hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene; - a “cycloalkyl” or “alicycloalkyl” radical denotes a mono- or bicyclic, preferably monocyclic, saturated cyclic hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, norbornyl, or isobornyl, in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl. it being understood that the cycloalkyl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is then an isobornyl group, - an “aryl” radical is an unsaturated and aromatic hydrocarbon cyclic radical, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 14 carbon atoms, more preferably between 6 and 12 carbon atoms, mono / bi / or tri / cyclic, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 cycle with 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl, or methylnaphthyl, preferably the aryl group represents a phenyl; - an “aryloxy” radical denotes an aryl-oxy radical with “aryl” as defined previously; - an “alkoxy” radical denotes an alkyl-oxy radical with “alkyl”, as defined previously.
[0023] Unless otherwise indicated, when compounds are mentioned in the present application, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their tautomers, their salts, alone or in mixture, are also understood to mean.
[0024] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The characteristics of the different examples may in particular be combined within non-illustrated variants. Detailed description of the invention Method according to the invention Composition A Alkoxysilane of formula (I) or of formula (!):
[0025] Composition A according to the invention comprises at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (I') following, their oligomers and / or their mixtures: (D in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group, it being understood that if Ra does not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb and Rc cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; Rd and Re, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 20 carbon atoms; an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; an aminoalkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; - A independently represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 linear or branched carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH - Q represents a carbonyl group (CO); - r denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1.
[0026] Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (I), their oligomers and / or their mixtures, mention may in particular be made of 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane (APMDES), 3-ureidopropyltrimethoxysilane and N-cyclohexylaminomethyl triethoxysilane.
[0027] APTES can for example be purchased from the company DOW CORNING under the name XIAMETER OFS-6011 SILANE or from the company MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS under the name SILSOFT A-1100 or from the company SHIN ETSU under the name KBE-903.
[0028] The compounds of formula (I) can also designate DYNASYLAN SIVO 210 or DYNASYLAN 1505 sold by the company EVONIK.
[0029] 3-ureidopropyltrimethoxysilane can for example be purchased from the company Gelest under the name SIU9058.0.
[0030] N-cyclohexylaminomethyl triethoxysilane can for example be purchased from the company WACKER under the name GENIOSIL XL 926.
[0031] Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (T), their oligomers and / or their mixtures, mention may in particular be made of N,N-Bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]ethylenediamine (CAS RN: 74956-86-8), Nl,Nl-Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1,2-ethanediamine (CAS RN: 457065-96-2), 1,2-ethanediamine, Nl-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-Nl-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]- (CAS RN: 1638528-78-5), and their mixtures.
[0032] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s), their oligomers and / or their mixtures are chosen from the compounds of the following formula (I): in which: - R a represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl, or an alkoxy group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably an ethoxy; - R b and R c, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as an ethyl; - R d and R e, identical, represent a hydrogen atom or Rd denotes a hydrogen atom and Re denotes a C5-C6 cycloalkyl radical such as cyclohexyl; - A independently represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 linear or branched carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH; - r denotes an integer equal to 0.
[0033] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s), their oligomers and / or their mixtures are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) in which R a represents an ethoxy group, R b and R c are identical and represent an ethyl, R d and R e represent a hydrogen atom, A represents a propyl and r denotes an integer equal to 0.
[0034] According to a preferred embodiment, the alkoxysilane of formula (I), its oligomers and / or their mixtures, is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES).
[0035] The alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I) or of formula (I'), their oligomers and / or their mixtures may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferentially from 0.75 to 25% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, even better still from 1.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0036] According to a preferred embodiment, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I), their oligomers and / or their mixtures is (are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferentially from 0.75 to 25% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, even better still from 1.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A. Alkoxysilane of formula (II):
[0037] Composition A according to the invention comprises at least one alkoxysilane of the following formula (II), its oligomers and / or their mixtures: R. (H) in which: - R a represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; - R b represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group; - R c represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; provided that if R a and R c do not represent an alkoxy group, then R b cannot represent a hydrogen atom; - k denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 5, preferably ranging from 0 to 3; - R f represents a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; or a group of the following formula (IIa): (IIa) in which Rn represents a hydroxy group (OH); an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl.
[0038] Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (II), their oligomers and / or their mixtures, mention may in particular be made of tetraethoxysilane (TEOS), methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS), methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), dimethyldiethoxysilane (DMDES), diethyldiethoxysilane, dipropyldiethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, isobutyltriethoxysilane, phenyltriethoxysilane, phenylmethyldiethoxysilane, diphenyldiethoxysilane, benzyltriethoxysilane, benzylmethyldiethoxysilane, dibenzyldiethoxysilane, acetoxymethyltriethoxysilane and their mixtures.
[0039] TEOS can for example be purchased from the company EVONIK under the name Dynasylan® A or Dynasylan® A SQ.
[0040] MTES can for example be purchased from the company EVONIK under the name Dynasylan® MTES.
[0041] DMDES can for example be purchased from the company GELEST under the reference SID3404.0.
[0042] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), their oligomers and / or their mixtures are such that: - R a represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methoxy or ethoxy; or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted by an aryl group, preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms optionally substituted by an aryl group; - R b represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl; - R c represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methoxy or an ethoxy - k denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0; - Rf represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl.
[0043] More preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), their oligomers and / or their mixtures are such that: - R a represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl; - R b represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl; - R c represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methoxy or an ethoxy - k denotes an integer equal to 0; - Rf represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl.
[0044] According to a preferred embodiment, the alkoxysilane of formula (II), its oligomers and / or their mixtures, is methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) or methyltriethoxysilane (MTES).
[0045] The alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), its oligomers and / or their mixtures may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 90% by weight, preferably from 1 to 75%, preferentially from 3 to 45% by weight, better still from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A. Organic solvents:
[0046] Composition A according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents.
[0047] As organic solvent, examples that may be mentioned are lower C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0048] Preferably, composition A according to the invention comprises ethanol.
[0049] The organic solvent(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 1 to 70% by weight, preferably from 5 to 55% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Composition B: Film-forming polymer:
[0050] Composition B according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer.
[0051] Preferably, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from polymers hydrophilic film-forming polymers, hydrophobic film-forming polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0052] For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units being derived from compounds called monomers). This or these units are repeated at least twice and preferably at least 3 times.
[0053] By “hydrophobic polymer” is meant a polymer having a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 1% by weight.
[0054] By “hydrophilic polymer” is meant a polymer having a solubility in water at 25°C greater than or equal to 1% by weight.
[0055] By “film-forming” polymer is meant a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive film.
[0056] According to a preferred embodiment, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from hydrophobic film-forming polymers.
[0057] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a polymer chosen from the group comprising: - film-forming polymers soluble in an organic solvent medium, in particular liposoluble polymers; this means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in the organic medium and will form a single homogeneous phase when it is incorporated into the medium. - film-forming polymers dispersible in an organic solvent medium, this means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in the organic medium, the polymer remaining stable and / or compatible once incorporated into this medium. In particular such polymers may be in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions in silicone or hydrocarbon oils; in one embodiment, the non-aqueous polymer dispersions comprise polymer particles stabilized on their surface by at least one stabilizing agent; these non-aqueous dispersions are often called "NAD (non-aqueous dispersions)". - film-forming polymers in the form of aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, this means that the polymer forms a water-insoluble phase, the polymer remaining stable and / or compatible once incorporated into water, the polymer particles being able to be stabilized on their surface by at least one stabilizing agent. These polymer particles are often called "latex"; in this case, the composition must comprise an aqueous phase.
[0058] Among the hydrophobic film-forming polymers which can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin and their mixtures.
[0059] As hydrophobic film-forming polymer, mention may in particular be made of acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, cellulose polymers such as nitrocellulose, silicone polymers, acrylamide-type polymers, polyisoprenes.
[0060] Non-ionic, amphoteric, anionic or cationic hydrophobic film-forming polymers may be used.
[0061] Preferably, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) according to the invention are chosen from acrylic acid copolymers, methacrylic acid copolymers, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, vinyl alcohol copolymers, vinyl acetate copolymers, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.
[0062] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers of olefins such as cycloolefins; butadiene; isoprene; styrene; vinyl ethers, esters or amides; esters or amides of (meth)acrylic acid containing a linear, branched or cyclic C1-C20 alkyl group, a C6-C10 aryl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group.
[0063] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may in particular be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers which may be obtained from monomers chosen from the group consisting of isooctyl (meth)acrylate, (meth)acrylate isononyl, 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, isopentyl (meth)acrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, methyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, tridecyl (meth)acrylate, stearyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate, benzyl or phenyl acrylate. or mixtures thereof.
[0064] For example, we can cite the ethylene / sodium acrylate copolymer marketed under the trade name ECOSMOOTH SATIN® by the company Dow.
[0065] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may in particular be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers which may be obtained from amides of acid monomers, mention may be made of (meth)acrylamides, and in particular N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, in particular C2-C12 alkyl such as N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, N-octyl acrylamide; N-dialkyl (C1-C4) (meth)acrylamides, perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates.
[0066] Mention may also be made of copolymers whose CTFA name (4th Ed., 1991) is Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl-methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER® or LOVOCRYL® 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH as well as copolymers whose CTFA name is Acrylates / octylacrylamide copolymer, such as the products sold under the name DERMACRYL® LT or DERMACRYL® 79 by the company NATIONAL STARCH.
[0067] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) according to the invention are chosen from anionic copolymers.
[0068] Preferably, the anionic copolymers according to the invention are copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or (meth)acrylic acid esters containing a linear, branched or cyclic C1-C6 alkyl group, as described under the INCI name Acrylates.
[0069] Such copolymers are marketed by the company ROHM AND HAAS under the name Aculyn®33.
[0070] Copolymers of unsaturated ethylenic acid esters and alkoxylated fatty alcohols may also be used according to the invention. Such unsaturated ethylenic acid esters are in particular acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid, and such alkoxylated fatty alcohols are in particular steareth-20 and ceteth-20.
[0071] Examples include Aculyn®22 (Acrylates / steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), Aculyn®28 (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), Structure 2001® (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure 3001® (Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure Plus® (Acrylates / Aminoacrylates C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate), Carbopol® 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer), Synthalen W2000® (Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer) or SOLTEX OPT (acrylates / C 12-22 alkyl methacrylate copolymer) marketed by ROHM AND HAAS.
[0072] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may also be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers which may be obtained from vinyl monomers. Mention may be made of homopolymers or copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl N-alkyl(Cl-C6) pyrroles, vinyl oxazoles, vinyl thiazoles, vinylpyrimidines or vinylimidazoles.
[0073] Examples of vinylpyrrolidone copolymers that can be used in the invention include VP / vinyl laurate copolymer, VP / vinyl stearate copolymer, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP / hexadecene marketed by ISP under the name Ganex V216, VP / eicosene marketed by ISP under the name Ganex V220, VP / triacontene or VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.
[0074] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer can also be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers which can be obtained from olefins such as ethylene, propylene, butenes, isoprene, butadienes.
[0075] In one embodiment, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer according to the invention is a block copolymer comprising at least one block consisting of styrene or styrene-derived units (for example methylstyrene, chlorostyrene or chloromethylstyrene). The copolymer comprising at least one styrene block may be a diblock or triblock copolymer, or even a multiblock, star or radial copolymer. The copolymer comprising at least one styrene block may further comprise, for example, an alkylstyrene block (AS), an ethylene / butylene block (EB), an ethylene / propylene block (EP), a butadiene block (B), an isoprene block (I), an acrylate block (A), a methacrylate block (MA) or a combination of these blocks.The copolymer comprising at least one block consisting of styrene or styrene-derived units may be a diblock or triblock copolymer, and in particular of the polystyrene / polyisoprene or polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those marketed or manufactured under the name “Luvitol HSB” by the company BASF SE.
[0076] Preferably, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) according to the invention are chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (co)polymers, vinylalcohol (co)polymers, vinylacetate (co)polymers, carboxyvinyl (co)polymers, acrylic acid (co)polymers, methacrylic acid (co)polymers, acrylic acid ester (co)polymers, ethylene (co)polymers, acrylamide (co)polymers and mixtures thereof.
[0077] More preferably, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, acrylamide copolymers, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene and mixtures thereof.
[0078] According to another preferred embodiment, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from hydrophilic film-forming polymers.
[0079] Nonionic, anionic or cationic hydrophilic film-forming polymers may be used.
[0080] The hydrophilic film-forming polymer may be chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (co)polymers, vinylalcohol (co)polymers, vinylacetate polymers, carboxyvinyl (co)polymers, acrylic acid (co)polymers, methacrylic acid (co)polymers, natural gums, polysaccharides and / or acrylamide (co)polymers.
[0081] Preferably, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer is chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers and / or vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, more preferably vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers.
[0082] Examples that may be mentioned include vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers marketed under the name Luviskol® K by the company BASF SE, in particular Luviskol® K 90 or Luviskol® K 85 by the company BASF SE.
[0083] The PVP K30 polymer marketed by Ashland Inc. (ISP, POI Chemical) can also be used. PVP K30 is a cold water soluble polyvinylpyrrolidone polymer having CAS number 9003-39-8 and molecular weight 40,000 g / mol.
[0084] Other vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers suitable for the invention are marketed under the trade name LUVITEC K 17, LUVITEC K 30, LUVITEC K 60, LUVITEC K 60, LUVITEC K 80, LUVITEC K 85, LUVITEC K 90 and LUVITEC K 115 by the company BASF SE.
[0085] Mention may also be made of the vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers marketed under the name Luviskol® by the company BASF SE, in particular the non-ionic polymers Luviskol® VA64 and Luviskol® VA73 (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers).
[0086] Mention may also be made of styrene / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / DMAPA acrylate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylate copolymers.
[0087] Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylate copolymers may be marketed by Ashland Inc. under the trade name Aquaflex® SF-40.
[0088] Vinylpyrrolidone / DMAPA acrylate copolymers may be marketed by Ashland Inc. under the trade name Styleze CC-10.
[0089] As vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, mention may be made of copolymers obtained by reaction of N-vinylpyrrolidone with at least one monomer chosen from N-vinylformamide, vinyl acetate, ethylene, propylene, acrylamide or vinylcaprolactam.
[0090] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylformamide copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0091] Preferably, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylformamide copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymers, acrylamide copolymers, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene and mixtures thereof.
[0092] More preferably, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid ester homopolymers or copolymers, ethylene homopolymers or copolymers and mixtures thereof.
[0093] The film-forming polymer(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, even better from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B. Composition A and / or B Amino silicone:
[0094] Composition A and / or composition B may comprise at least one amino silicone.
[0095] The term “amino silicone” means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
[0096] The weight-average molecular masses of these amino silicones can be measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C) in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are p styragel columns. The eluent is THF, the flow rate is 1 ml / min. 200 μl of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is done by refractometry and UVmetry.
[0097] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) capable of being used in the context of the invention are chosen from: (a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A): HO--- CH. 1 " Si O CH. (HAS)
[0098] in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is between approximately 5,000 and 500,000; b) amino silicones corresponding to the formula (B): R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a (B) in which:
[0099] - G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, C1-C8 alkyl, for example methyl, or C1-C8 alkoxy, for example methoxy, - a, identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,
[0100] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups: -N(R")2; -N+(R")3 A-; -NR"-QN(R")2 and -NR"-Q-N+(R")3 A-, in which R", identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
[0101] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B).
[0102] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to the following formulas (C), (D), (E), (F), (G) and / or amino silicones comprising at least one unit of formula (L), in particular the amino silicones of the following formula (N).
[0103] According to a first embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" having the formula (C): Cf "L - j _ M M. (C 1 n Nf (Cf IA ' l Z'Z NI OSKCH (C) in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.
[0104] According to a second embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of the following formula (D): (0) in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n being able to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m being able to denote a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; - Ri, R2, R3, identical or different, represent a Cr C4 hydroxy or alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 denoting an alkoxy radical.
[0105] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0106] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.
[0107] The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3500 to 200,000.
[0108] According to a third embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the following silicones of formula (E): in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p being able to designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q being able to designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; - Rb R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 designating an alkoxy radical.
[0109] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0110] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.
[0111] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 and even more particularly from 5000 to 100000 and more particularly from 10000 to 50000.
[0112] Commercial products comprising silicones of structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (D) or (E).
[0113] A product containing amino silicones of structure (D) is offered by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652.
[0114]
[0115]
[0116] A product containing amino silicones of structure (E) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300® or under the name Belsil ADM Log 1. When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but preferably cationic and / or non-ionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (E), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nanometers (inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nanometers (inclusive). Thus, the microemulsions of amino silicone of formula (E) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER may be used according to the invention. According to a fourth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of the following formula (F): ch3 CH- HO--Si— O — Si-- — CH3 CH? n CH-< CH. laughed O — Si—O—Si—OH To L NH i (CHX I ' NH '^2 m
[0117]
[0118]
[0119]
[0120]
[0121] in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear. The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200,000. Another silicone corresponding to formula (B) is for example XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from DOW CORNING (INCI name amodimethicone and trideceth-6 and cetrimonium chloride).
[0122] According to a fifth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to the formula (B) are chosen from silicones of the following formula (G):
[0123] in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
[0124] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
[0125] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.
[0126] A silicone corresponding to this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from DOW CORNING.
[0127] c) amino silicones corresponding to the formula (H): (RR—Si—O OR—CH OH Rr (H)
[0128] in which:
[0129] - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 atoms of carbon, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, or C2-C18 alkenyl, for example methyl;
[0130] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in C1-C18 or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy radical, for example CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - Q is a union such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate;
[0131] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8 - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.
[0132] Such amino silicones are notably described in US patent 4,185,087.
[0133] d) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I): OH R, R, 2X' R, 1 j ■ ...-- k — ai CH2OH-CH- UJ -r । 0 1 — S; — R. ~CH,- C HOH - CH. - N — FL 1 • * i r7 r7 r R, in which: - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a cycle comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C Ci8 alkylene radical or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy radical, for example CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical, a -R6-NHCOR7 radical; - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate; - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.
[0134] These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974.
[0135] e) amino silicones of formula (J): — NH - (CaH - Si in which: - Rb R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,
[0136] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
[0137] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g.
[0138] f) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.
[0139] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas: [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -R'-N(H)-R-] or else [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R' - O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -] in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000; - R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;
[0140] - R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2- Ci2, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially R denotes a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; - R', identical or different, represent a linear or branched C2-Ci2 divalent hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-,
[0141] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.
[0142] The amine level is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
[0143] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000, more particularly between 10000 and 200000.
[0144] We can notably cite the silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.
[0145] g) amino silicones of formula (K): (K) in which: - A represents a hydroxy group, -O-Si(CH3)3, -O-Si(CH3)2OH, or -O-Si(CH3)2OCH3, - D represents a hydrogen atom, a -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, or -Si(CH3)2OCH3> group - b, n and c, independent of each other, are integers between 0 and 100 with n>0 and b+c>0, and at least one of the following conditions is met: A represents a hydroxyl group (OH) or D represents a hydrogen atom.
[0146] In formula (K), the siloxane units bearing the indices b, c and n are distributed randomly, i.e. they are not necessarily block copolymers.
[0147] h) amino silicones comprising at least one unit of formula (L): According to a preferred embodiment, the amino silicone according to the invention comprises at least one unit of the following formula (L):
[0148] According to a more preferred embodiment, the amino silicone according to the invention comprises at least one unit of formula (L) and at least one unit of the following formula (M): (M).
[0149]
[0150]
[0151] Preferably, the amino silicone according to the invention is an amino silicone substituted by at least one 4-Morpholinomethyl group. For example, we can cite the copolymer amodimethicone / morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane marketed under the trade name Belsil ADM 8301E by the company Wacker. The amino silicone substituted by at least one 4-Morpholinomethyl group which can be used according to the invention has the following formula (N):
[0152] (N) in which: - Ri represents a group -CH3, OH, -OCH3, -O-CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH2CH3, or -O-CH(CH3)2, - R2 represents a -CH3, OH, or -OCH3 group - B represents a hydroxy group, -O-Si(CH3)3, -O-Si(CH3)2OH, or -O-Si(CH3)2OCH3 - D represents a hydrogen atom, a -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, or -Si(CH3)2OCH3 group - a, b and c, independent of each other, are whole numbers between 0 and 1000 with a+b+b >0, - m and n, independent of each other, are whole numbers between 1 and 1000, with at least one of the following conditions being met: B represents a hydroxyl group (OH) or D represents a hydrogen atom. Preferably, a>0 or b>0, more preferably a>0 and b>0.
[0153] The amino silicone of formula (N) may have trimethylsilyl endings (D or B = -Si(CH3)3) or dimethylsilylhydroxy endings or on one side trimethylsilyl endings and on the other side dimethylsilylhydroxy endings.
[0154] According to a preferred embodiment, the amino silicone according to the invention is an amino silicone substituted by at least one 4-Morpholinomethyl group of formula (N) chosen from: B= -O-Si(CH3)2OH and D= -Si(CH3)3 B=-O-Si(CH3)2OH and D= -Si(CH3)2OH B=-O-Si(CH3)2OH and D= -Si(CH3)2OCH3 B= -Si(CH3)3 and D= -Si(CH3)2OH B=-Si(CH3)2OCH3and D= -Si(CH3)2OH
[0155] i) and mixtures thereof.
[0156] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to the formula (D) or the amino silicones comprising at least one unit of formula (L), in particular the amino silicones of formula (N).
[0157] Preferably, composition A and / or composition B comprises (comprise) at least one amino silicone chosen from amino silicones of formula (D) or amino silicones comprising at least one unit of formula (L), in particular amino silicones of formula (N).
[0158] The amino silicone(s) may be present in a total amount varying from 0.1% to 35%, preferably from 1 to 25%, more preferably from 3 to 20%, even more preferably from 5 to 17% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B. Non-ionic, non-associative cellulose polymer
[0159] Composition A and / or composition B according to the invention may comprise at least one non-ionic, preferably non-associative, cellulose polymer.
[0160] The non-ionic non-associative cellulosic polymer is different from the film-forming polymers mentioned above.
[0161] According to the invention, the term “cellulosic polymer” means any polysaccharide polymer having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by beta-1,4 bonds.
[0162] By "non-associative cellulose polymer", it is meant according to the invention that the cellulose polymers do not comprise a C8-C30 fatty chain.
[0163] The non-ionic non-associative cellulosic polymers may be chosen from alkyl(Ci-C4)celluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); hydroxyalkyl(Ci-C4)celluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed hydroxyalkyl(Ci-C4)-alkyl(Ci-C4)celluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (e.g. Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (e.g. Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL), and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof.
[0164] Preferably, the non-associative non-ionic cellulose polymer(s) are chosen from hydroxyalkyl(Ci-C4)celluloses.
[0165] More preferably, the non-associative non-ionic cellulose polymer(s) are hydroxyethylcellulose and / or hydroxypropylcellulose.
[0166] More preferably, composition A and / or composition B comprises (comprise) hydroxyethylcellulose and / or hydroxypropylcellulose.
[0167] In particular, mention may be made of hydroxyethylcellulose sold by the company Ashland Inc. under the trade name NATROSOL 250 HR PC.
[0168] The non-associative non-ionic cellulose polymer(s) may be present in a total amount preferably ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B. Coloring agent:
[0169] Composition A and / or composition B according to the invention comprises (comprise) at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures.
[0170] Preferably, composition A according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures.
[0171] Preferably, composition A and / or composition B according to the invention comprises (comprise) one or more pigments.
[0172] Preferably, the coloring agent(s) are chosen from pigments.
[0173] By "pigment" is meant all pigments providing color to keratin materials. Their solubility in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01% by weight.
[0174] The pigments which can be used are in particular chosen from organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those which are described in the Kirk-Othmer encyclopedia of chemical technology and in the Ullmann encyclopedia of industrial chemistry.
[0175] They can be natural, of natural origin, or not.
[0176] These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste. They can be coated or uncoated.
[0177] The pigments may for example be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and mixtures thereof.
[0178] The pigment may be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide.
[0179] The pigment may be an organic pigment. By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter.
[0180] The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.
[0181] In particular, the white or colored organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0182] As an example, we can also cite organic pigment pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name: - JAUNE COSMENYL IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710); - COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680); - ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71105); - COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085); - CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490); - VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319); - COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160); - VERT COSMENYL GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260); - COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).
[0183] The pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.
[0184] The organic pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0185] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
[0186] Among the colorants, we can cite carminic acid. Also included are dyes known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0187] As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).
[0188] The pigment may also be a special effect pigment. Special effect pigments are understood to mean pigments that generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vividness and a certain clarity) that is non-uniform and changes depending on the viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angles, etc.). They are thus opposed to colored pigments that provide a conventional uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.
[0189] There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter.
[0190] Examples of special effect pigments that may be mentioned are pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium and in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and an organic pigment as defined above, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. As pearlescent pigments, we can cite Cellini pearlescents marketed by BASF (Mica-TiO2-lacquer), Prestige marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2), Prestige Bronze marketed by Eckart (Mica-Fe2O3) and Colorona marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO2-Fe2O3).
[0191] Mention may also be made of gold-colored mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by BASF under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by BASF under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-reflecting mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica);red-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red-tinted mother-of-pearl with a gold tint, notably marketed by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone);black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl notably marketed by MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and pinkish-orange, golden-green mother-of-pearl notably marketed by MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.;
[0192] Still as an example of nacres, we can also cite particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
[0193] Particles with a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.
[0194] Finally, as examples of nacres, we can also cite polyethylene terephthalate flakes, in particular those marketed by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes). We can also consider multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
[0195] The special effect pigments may also be chosen from reflective particles, that is to say in particular particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer(s) which constitute it and their physical and chemical nature, and surface condition, enable them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when the latter is applied to the support to be made up, highlights visible to the naked eye, that is to say brighter points which contrast with their environment by appearing to shine.
[0196] The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection.
[0197] These particles can have various shapes, in particular being platelet-shaped or globular, in particular spherical.
[0198] The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may have a multi-layer structure or not and, in the case of a multi-layer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.
[0199] When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.
[0200] When the reflective particles have a multi-layer structure, they may for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be single-material, multi-material, organic and / or inorganic.
[0201] More particularly, it can be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and their mixtures, this list not being limiting.
[0202] The reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or a metallic material.
[0203] Reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
[0204] Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.
[0205] Platelet-shaped particles with a silver-coated glass substrate are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy-coated glass substrate are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.
[0206] It is also possible to use particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.
[0207] Examples include aluminum, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO2 marketed under the name VISIONAIRE by the company ECKART.
[0208] Mention may also be made of interference effect pigments not fixed on a substrate such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), interference holographic flakes (Geometry Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether they are substances that fluoresce in daylight or that produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, marketed for example by the company Quantum Dots Corporation.
[0209] The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic and interference effects.
[0210] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 5 nm and 200 qm, preferably between 7 nm and 80 qm, and more preferably between 10 nm and 50 qm.
[0211] The pigments may be dispersed in the composition using a dispersing agent.
[0212] The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles against agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, carrying one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may attach physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants further have at least one functional group compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid, in particular, and of C8 to C20 fatty acids and polyols such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750g / mol, such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel, or polyhydroxystearic acid such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof, are used.
[0213] As another dispersant that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, poly dimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.
[0214] The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with an organic agent.
[0215] Thus, the previously surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have undergone totally or partially a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanochemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those which are described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64 before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention.These organic agents may be chosen, for example, from waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethylmethacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanoamines; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluoro-silicon compounds.
[0216] The surface-treated pigments useful in the composition may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and / or have undergone several surface treatments.
[0217] The surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the present invention can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found as such commercially.
[0218] Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are covered by an organic layer.
[0219] The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surfactant or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.
[0220] The surface treatment can thus be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or fillers. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.
[0221] Preferably, an organic agent covalently bound to the pigments will be used.
[0222] The surface treatment agent may represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment.
[0223] Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments: - a PEG-Silicone treatment like the AQ surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Methicone treatment such as the SI surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Dimethicone treatment such as the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Dimethicone / Trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment such as the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Magnesium Myristate treatment such as the MM surface treatment marketed by LCW; - an Aluminum Dimyristate treatment such as the MI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; - a Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment such as the FHC surface treatment marketed by LCW; - an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment such as the HS surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the PF surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an acrylate / Dimethicone and Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate Copolymer treatment such as the FSA surface treatment marketed by Daito; - a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the FS01 surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Acrylate / Dimethicone Copolymer treatment such as the ASC surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment like the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Acrylate copolymer treatment such as the APD surface treatment marketed by Daito; - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate / Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment like the PF + ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito.
[0224] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersing agent is present with organic or inorganic pigments in particulate form of sub-micron size in the coloring composition.
[0225] By "sub-micronic" or in English "sub-micronic" is meant pigments whose particle size has been micronized by micronization method and whose average particle size is less than one micrometer (pm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 pm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 pm.
[0226] According to one embodiment, the dispersing agent and the pigment(s) are present in an amount (dispersant: pigment) of between 1:4 and 4:1, particularly between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better between 1.75:3 and 3:1.
[0227] The dispersing agent(s) may therefore have a silicone backbone, such as silicone polyether and amino-silicone dispersants, different from the amino silicones or alkoxysilanes of formula (I) or formula (T) previously described in the application. Among the suitable dispersing agents, mention may be made of: - amino-silicones, i.e. silicones comprising one or more amino groups such as those marketed under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879, by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, marketed by Genesee polymers, - silicone acrylates such as Tego ® RC 902, Tego ® RC 922, Tego ® RC 1041, and Tego ® RC 1043, marketed by Evonik, - polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones with carboxylic groups such as X-22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, silicone epoxy such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682, and GP-695, by Genesee Polymers, or Tego ® RC 1401, Tego ® RC 1403, Tego ® RC 1412, by Evonik.
[0228] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are of amino-silicone type, different from the amino silicones or alkoxysilanes of formula (I) or formula (T) previously described in the application and are cationic.
[0229] Preferably, the pigment(s) is(are) chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.
[0230] In one variant of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are organic pigments. In another variant of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are mineral pigments.
[0231] Composition A and / or composition B according to the invention may comprise one or more direct dye(s).
[0232] By "direct dye" we mean natural and / or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes which will diffuse superficially on the fiber.
[0233] They can be ionic or non-ionic, preferably anionic, cationic or non-ionic.
[0234] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
[0235] The direct dyes are preferably cationic direct dyes. Mention may be made of the hydrazono cationic dyes of formulae (III) and (IV), the azo cationic dyes (V) and (VI) below: (III) Hét*-C(Ra>=N-NCRb)-Ar£ Q Het+-N(Ra)-N=C(Rb)-Ar, Q- Hey <n=n-ar, q- Ar <n=n-ar”. q- formulas (III) to (VI) in which: - Het + represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably with an endocyclic cationic charge such as imidazolium, indolium, or pyridinium, optionally substituted preferentially by at least one (CrC8)alkyl group such as methyl; - Ar + represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, with an exocyclic cationic charge, preferably ammonium, particularly tri(Ci-C8)alkyl-ammonium such as trimethylammonium; - Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, optionally substituted, preferably by one or more electron-donating groups such as i) (Cr C8)alkyl optionally substituted, ii) (Ci-C8)alkoxy optionally substituted, iii) (di)(Ci-C8)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(Ci-C8)alkylamino, v) N-(CrC8)alkyl-N-aryl(Ci-C8)alkylamino optionally substituted or Ar represents a julolidine group; - Ar” represents an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl or pyrazolyl optionally substituted, preferably by one or more (Ci-C8)alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(Ci-C8)(alkyl)amino, (CrC8)alkoxy or phenyl groups; - Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C8)alkyl group optionally substituted, preferably by a hydroxyl group; or the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het+ and / or Rb with a substituent of Ar form together with the atoms which carry them a (hetero)cycloalkyl; particularly Ra and Rb, representing a hydrogen atom or a (Cr C4)alkyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group; - Q- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.
[0236] Particularly, mention may be made of the direct dyes with endocyclic azo and hydrazono cationic charge of formula (III) to (VI) as defined above. More particularly, the direct cationic dyes with endocyclic cationic charge described in patent applications WO 95 / 15144, WO 95 / 01772 and EP-714954.
[0237] Preferably the following direct dyes: (SEEN) (VIII) formulas (VII) and (VIII) in which: - R 1 represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl; - R 2 and R 3, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl; and -R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as (Cr C8)alkyl optionally substituted, (CrC8)alkoxy optionally substituted, (di)(Cr C8)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group; particularly R4 is a hydrogen atom, - Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH, - Q- is an anionic counterion as defined previously, particularly halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesyl.
[0238] In particular, the dyes of formula (VII) and (VIII) are chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or their derivatives with Q' an anionic counterion as defined previously, particularly halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesyl.
[0239] The direct dyes may be chosen from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called “acid” direct dyes for their affinity with alkaline substances. By anionic direct dyes is meant any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. The anionic dyes may be chosen from acid nitro direct dyes, acid azo dyes, acid azine dyes, acid triarylmethane dyes, acid indoamine dyes, acid anthraquinone dyes, indigoids and acid natural dyes.
[0240] As acid dyes according to the invention, mention may be made of the dyes of formulae (IX), (IX'), (X), (X'), (XI), (XI'), (XII), (XII'), (XIII), (XIV), (XV) and (XVI) following: (a) diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (IX) or (IX'): formula (IX) and (IX') in which: - R7, R8, R9, R10, R'7, R's, R'9 and R'io, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - R”-S(O)2-, with R” representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an aryl group, (di)(alkyl)amino, aryl(alkyl)amino; preferably a phenylamino or phenyl group; - R”'-S(O)2-X'- with R'” representing an alkyl group, optionally substituted aryl, X' as defined previously; - (di)(alkyl)amino; - aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+ and iv) alkoxy with M+ as defined previously; - optionally substituted heteroaryl; preferably a benzothiazolyl group; - cycloalkyl; in particular cyclohexyl, - Ar-N=N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferably a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl, (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or phenylamino groups; - or two contiguous groups R7 with R8 or R8 with R9 or R9 with R10 together form a fused benzo group A'; and R'7 with R'8 or R'8 with R'9 or R'ç with R'10 together form a fused benzo group B'; with A' and B' optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X”-; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) optionally substituted aryl(alkyl)amino; with M+, R°, X, X', X” and Ar as defined above; - W represents a sigma o bond, an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or a divalent radical i) -NR- with R as defined above, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or Ra and Rb together form, with the carbon atom which carries them, a spiro cycloalkyl; preferably W represents a sulfur atom or Ra and Rb together form a cyclohexyl; it being understood that formulas (IX) and (IX') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical (O)CO—, M+ on one of the rings A, A', B, B' or C; preferably sodium sulfonate;
[0241] A titre d’exemple de colorants de formule (IX) on peut citer : Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2 ; Food yellow 3 ou sunset yellow; et à titre d’exemple de colorants de formule (IX’) on peut citer : Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38.
[0242] b) les colorants azo anioniques pyrrazolone de formule (X) et (X’) : (X) (X’) formulas (X) and (X') in which: - R h , R 12 and R 13, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, halogen atom, an alkyl group or -(O)2S(O-), M+ with M+ as defined previously; - R 14 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a -C(O)O-, M+ group with M+ as defined previously; - R 15 represents a hydrogen atom; - R 16 represents an oxo group in which case R' 16 is absent, or else Ri5 with Reform together a double bond; - R 17 and R 18, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from: - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - Ar-OS(O)2- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferably a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups; - R 19 and R 20, together form either a double bond or a benzo D' group, optionally substituted; - R' 16, R' 19 and R' 20, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxy group; - R 21 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or alkoxy group; Ra and Rb, identical or different, are as defined previously, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents an aryl group; - Y represents either a hydroxy group or an oxo group; - ------ represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxy group; it being understood that formulas (X) and (X') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+ on one of rings D or E; preferably sodium sulfonate;
[0243] As examples of dyes of formula (X) we can cite: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and as examples of dyes of formula (X') we can cite: Acid Yellow 17;
[0244] c) the anthraquinone dyes of formula (XI) and (XI'): (XD formulas (XI) and (XI') in which: - R 22, R 23, R 24, R 25, R 26 and R 27, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - hydroxy, mercapto; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - optionally substituted aryloxy or arylthio, preferably substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - (di)(alkyl)amino; - (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; -Z' represents a hydrogen atom or a group NR28R29 with R 2s and R 29, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl; - aryl optionally substituted by one or more groups, particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined above; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R °, X, X' and X” as defined above, preferably R° represents an alkyl group; - cycloalkyl; in particular cyclohexyl; - Z, represents a group chosen from hydroxy and NR'28R'29 with R'28 and R'29, identical or different, represent the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined previously; it being understood that formulas (XI) and (XI') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate;
[0245] As examples of dyes of formula (XI) we can cite: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT violet No. 2; and as examples of dyes of formula (XI') we can cite: Acid Black 48;
[0246] d) nitrated dyes of formula (XII), (XII'): (R. W—ALK—S0< M no. 2 (Xir) formulas (XII) and (XII') in which: - R 30, R 31 and R 32, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, alkylthio optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - polyhaloalkyl; - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R°; X, X' and X” as defined previously; - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - (di)(alkyl)amino; - (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino; - heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino; particularly R30, R3i and R32 represent a hydrogen atom; Rc and Rd, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; - W is as defined above; W particularly represents a -NH- group; - ALK represents a linear or branched divalent alkylene group, C1-C6; particularly ALK represents a -CH2-CH2- group; - n is 1 or 2; - p represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusive; - q represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive; - u is 0 or 1; - when n is 1, J represents a nitro, or nitroso group; particularly nitro 44 - when n is 2, J represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or a divalent radical -S(O)m- with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferably J represents a radical -SO2-; - M' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; .... ... present or absent represents a benzo group possibly substituted by one or more R30 groups as defined above, it being understood that formulas (XII) and (XII') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate.
[0247] As examples of dyes of formula (XII) we can cite: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; as examples of dyes of formula (XII') we can cite: Acid Yellow 1, Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino 5-nitro benzene sulfonic acid, 2(4'-N,N(2"-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethane sulfonic acid, 4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene sulfonic acid; EXT D&C yellow 7;
[0248] e) triarylmethane dyes of formula (XIII): (XIII) formula (XIII) in which: - R 33, R 34, R 35 and R 36, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group optionally substituted by a (O)mS(O-)-, M+ group with M+ and m as defined previously; - R 37, R 38, R 39, R 40, R 4i, R 42, R 43 and R 44, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - (di)(alkyl)amino; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen atom, sulfur atom or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - or two contiguous groups R4[ with R42 or R2 with R4Î or R43 with R^ together form a fused benzo group: I'; with I' optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X”-; with M+, R°, X, X', X” as defined above; particularly R37 to Rio represent a hydrogen atom, and Ri to IR, identical or different, represent a hydroxy group or (O)2S(O-)-, M+; and when R3 with R^ together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted by a (O)2S(O-)- group; it being understood that at least one of the cycles G, H, I or I' comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)- or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-; preferentially sulfonate;
[0249] As examples of dyes of formula (XIII) we can cite: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50;
[0250] f) dyes derived from xanthene of formula (XIV): formula (XIV) in which - R 45, R 46, R 47 and R 48, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom; - R 49, R 50, R si and R 52, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously; particularly R53 R54, R55 and R^ represent a hydrogen or halogen atom; - G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or an NRe group with Re as defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom; - L represents an alcoholate O-, M+; a thioalcoholate S-, M+ or an NRf group, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M+ as defined previously; M+ is particularly sodium or potassium; - L' represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom or an ammonium group: N +RfRg, with Rf and Rg, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an aryl group optionally substituted; L' particularly represents an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups or (O)mS(O-)-, M+ with m and M+ as defined previously; - Q and Q', identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom; - M+ is as defined previously;
[0251] As examples of dyes of formula (XIV) we can cite: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9;
[0252] g) dyes derived from indole of formula (XV): - R 53, R 54, R 55, R 56, R 57, R 58, R 59 and R 60, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - G represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or an NRe group with Re as defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom; - Ri and Rh, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; it being understood that formula (XV) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate
[0253] As an example of dyes of formula (XV) we can cite: Acid Blue 74.
[0254] h) dyes derived from quinoline of formula (XVI) d (XVI) - R 6i represents a hydrogen atom, halogen or an alkyl group; - R 62, R 63, and R 64, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; or R6[ with R62, or R6[ with RM, together form a benzo group optionally substituted by one or more (O)2S(O-)-, M+ groups with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; it being understood that formula (XVI) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ preferably sodium sulfonate.
[0255] As examples of dyes of formula (XVI) we can cite: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
[0256] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particular poultices or extracts based on henna may also be used.
[0257] Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from anionic direct dyes.
[0258] The coloring agent(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 20%, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.005 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.
[0259] The pigments may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.
[0260] The direct dye(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight of the total weight of composition A and / or composition B. Solvent:
[0261] Composition A and / or composition B according to the invention may comprise water. Preferably, the water is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 90% by weight, better still from 10 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.
[0262] When composition A and / or composition B according to the invention comprises (comprise) water, the pH of composition A and / or composition B is preferably alkaline.
[0263] For the purpose of adjusting the pH, composition A and / or composition B may comprise an alkaline agent.
[0264] Preferably, composition A and / or composition B according to the invention comprises an alkaline agent.
[0265] The pH of the compositions is measured at room temperature.
[0266] As an alkaline agent, mention may be made of ammonia, alkanolamines, and / or basic amino acids.
[0267] Preferably, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine,
[0268] triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3- dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, trishydroxymethylaminomethane. More preferably, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine and / or 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol.
[0269] For the purposes of the invention, the term "amino acid" means organic compounds having two functional groups: both a carboxyl group -COOH or carboxylate and an amine group -NH2, the amine group optionally being methylated, i.e. in the form -NR2 or N+R3, where at least one R=CH3.
[0270] Preferably, the amino acid(s) are chosen from aminocarboxylic acids such as alpha-aminocarboxylic acid.
[0271] By “basic amino acid” is meant amino acids having an isoelectric point greater than 7.
[0272] Preferably, the basic amino acid(s) are chosen from arginine, lysine, ornithine and / or histidine, more preferably arginine and / or lysine.
[0273] According to a particular embodiment, composition A may comprise an inorganic alkaline agent, preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and / or potassium carbonate.
[0274] Preferably, composition A and / or composition B comprises (comprise) an alkaline agent chosen from ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, arginine and / or lysine.
[0275] Composition A and / or composition B may also comprise acidifying agents to adjust the pH.
[0276] Preferably, the acidifying agents are chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid and / or mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, and phosphoric acid. Additives:
[0277] Composition A and / or composition B may also contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.
[0278] Among the additives that may be contained in the composition, mention may be made of reducing agents, thickening agents other than the polymers previously described, softeners, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, UV filters, peptizers, dispersants, perfumes, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, preservatives, waxes and mixtures thereof.
[0279] Composition A and / or composition B may be presented in particular in the form of a suspension, dispersion, gel, emulsion, in particular oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, or multiple (W / O / W or polyol / O / W or O / W / O), in the form of cream, mousse, stick, dispersion of vesicles, in particular of ionic or non-ionic lipids, two-phase or multi-phase lotion, an anhydrous liquid or an anhydrous gel.
[0280] According to a particular embodiment, composition A according to the invention is an anhydrous liquid or an anhydrous gel.
[0281] According to a particular embodiment, composition B according to the invention is a dispersion.
[0282] A person skilled in the art will be able to choose the appropriate galenic form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account on the one hand the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand the application envisaged for composition A and / or composition B. Composition C Metallic compound:
[0283] Composition C according to the invention comprises at least one metallic compound.
[0284] For the purposes of the invention, the term “metal compound” means a compound comprising at least one atom chosen from metals.
[0285] Preferably, composition C comprises at least one metallic compound, the metal(s) being chosen from transition metals, metals from the lanthanide family group, aluminum, boron, tin, bismuth, alkali and alkaline-earth metals such as magnesium, and mixtures thereof.
[0286] Preferably, the metallic compound(s) comprises (comprise) at least one metal chosen from titanium, tin, aluminum, zirconium, and mixtures thereof, better still titanium, aluminum and mixtures thereof.
[0287] More preferably, composition C comprises at least one metallic compound, the metal(s) being chosen from titanium, tin, aluminum, zirconium, and mixtures thereof, better still titanium, aluminum and mixtures thereof.
[0288] The metallic compound(s) are different from the coloring agents as described above.
[0289] Preferably, the metallic compound(s) are chosen from organometallic compounds.
[0290] The organometallic compound(s) is (are) preferably chosen from the metal alkoxides of the following formulae (XVIIa), (XVIIb), (XVIIc) and (XVIId) and their mixtures: M-(ORi)n (XVIIa) RM (ORi)n ! (XVIIb) (R10)n.1-MR"-M'-(0R1)n.1 (XVIIc) RR'-M-CORÛn 2 (XVIId) in which: - M and M', independently of one another, represent an atom chosen from transition metals, metals of the lanthanide group of the periodic table, aluminum, boron, tin, bismuth, alkali and alkaline-earth metals such as magnesium, preferably titanium or aluminum, - n represents the valence of the metal, and - R i, identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by 1 to 20 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and / or P, - R and R', independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by 1 to 20 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and / or P; - R" represents -O-, -NR2-, -S- or a divalent hydrocarbon group, linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by 1 to 20 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and / or P, with R 2 representing a hydrocarbon group, linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0291] More preferably, the organometallic compound(s) is (are) chosen from metal alkoxides of formula (XVIIa), in which: - M represents an atom chosen from transition metals, metals of the lanthanide group of the periodic table, aluminum, boron, tin, bismuth, alkali and alkaline earth metals such as magnesium, preferably titanium or aluminum; - n represents the valence of the atom; - R i, identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0292] Even more preferably, the organometallic compound(s) is (are) chosen from metal alkoxides of formula (XVIIa), in which: - M represents an atom chosen from titanium, tin, bismuth, aluminum, zirconium, preferably titanium or aluminum; - n represents the valence of the atom; - R i represents a methyl, ethyl, 2-ethylhexyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl or t-butyl group.
[0293] According to a preferred embodiment, the organometallic compound(s) is (are) chosen from tetraalkoxytitanium of the following formula (XVIII): Ti(OR3)y(OR4)4 y (XVIII) in which: - R 3 and R 4 represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched alkyl radical, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and - y is an integer ranging from 3 to 4.
[0294] As metallic compound usable in the present invention, mention may be made of organometallic compounds based on aluminum and in particular aluminum di-s-butoxide ethylacetoacetate, organometallic compounds based on tin and in particular tin bis(2-ethylhexanoate), tin bis(neodecanoate), tin di-n-butylbis(2,4-pentanedionate), di-n-butyldiacetoxy tin, tin dimethyldineodecanoate, tin dimethylhydroxy(oelate), tin dioctylauryl, tin dioctyldilauryl, tin II oleate and mixtures thereof, organometallic compounds based on zirconium and in particular zirconium ethoxide, zirconium propoxide, zirconium isopropoxide, zirconium butoxide, zirconium tert-butoxide, organometallic compounds based on titanium base and in particular titanium ethoxide, titanium propoxide, titanium isopropoxide, titanium butoxide, titanium tert-butoxide, titanium 2-ethylhexyloxide, and mixtures thereof.
[0295] Preferably, the metal compound is titanium butoxide.
[0296] Titanium butoxide can for example be purchased from the company SHIN ETSU under the name D-25.
[0297] According to one embodiment, the metal compound is a metal salt.
[0298] According to a preferred embodiment, the metal salt(s) are chosen among transition metal salts, alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, aluminum salts, boron salts, tin salts, their hydrates and their mixtures, more preferably titanium salts, aluminum salts, their hydrates and their mixtures.
[0299] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “metal salt” means a salt resulting in particular from the action of at least one acid on a metal.
[0300] The metal salt(s) may be in the form of hydrates.
[0301] The metal salt(s) may be organic or inorganic.
[0302] By "organic metal salt" is meant a salt resulting in particular from the action of an organic acid on a metal.
[0303] By "inorganic metal salt" is meant a salt resulting in particular from the action of an inorganic acid on a metal.
[0304] By "inorganic acid" is meant an acid which does not contain any carbon atoms other than carbonic acid.
[0305] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the inorganic metal salt(s) are chosen from halides such as chlorides, fluorides, iodides and bromides, carbonates, sulfates, phosphates, nitrates, perchlorates, their hydrates, and their mixtures.
[0306] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the inorganic metal salt(s) are chosen from aluminum sulfate, hydrated or non-hydrated aluminum chloride and mixtures thereof.
[0307] Preferably, the metal salt(s) are organic, more preferably chosen from citrates, lactates, glycolates, gluconates, acetates, propionates, fumarates, oxalates, glycinates, tartrates, benzoates, their hydrates and their mixtures.
[0308] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the metal salt(s) are chosen from titanium citrate, aluminum acetate, aluminum lactate, hydrated or non-hydrated aluminum citrate, aluminum glycinate, aluminum benzoate and mixtures thereof.
[0309] The metallic compound(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Organic solvents:
[0310] Composition C according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents.
[0311] As organic solvent, one can for example mention alkanes having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched alkanes in C8 to C16 such as isoalkanes in C8 to C16 of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane.
[0312] Cyclic silicones can also be mentioned.
[0313] Preferably, the cyclic silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from aryl groups and alkoxy groups.
[0314] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter NOLL's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0315] Preferably, the cyclic silicones are volatile.
[0316] When they are volatile, the cyclic silicones may be more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and more particularly still from cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0317] Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE, of formula:
[0318] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane.
[0319] Advantageously, the cyclic silicones are chosen from cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms as mentioned above.
[0320] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from C8 to C10 branched alkanes, cyclic silicone targets and mixtures thereof, more particularly from cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, better still from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
[0321] The organic solvents may be present in a total amount ranging from 40 to 99.8% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C, preferably from 50 to 99.5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0322] Composition C may comprise an amino silicone as described previously. Process for treating keratin fibers
[0323] The subject of the present invention is a process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising: i) a step of applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition C comprising at least one metallic compound as described previously, ii) a step of applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition A comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (!) as described previously, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or their mixtures, and iii) a step of applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition B comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof; it being understood that steps i), ii) and iii) are carried out successively i), then ii), then iii) or then ii), then i), then iii) or then ii), then iii) then i).
[0324] Preferably, composition A, composition B and / or composition C according to the invention are compositions for coloring keratin fibers, such as hair.
[0325] Composition A, composition B and composition C are applied sequentially.
[0326] According to a preferred embodiment, composition C is first applied to the keratin fibers followed by composition A in a second step followed by composition B in a third step, i.e. i), then ii), then iii).
[0327] According to another preferred embodiment, composition A is first applied to the keratin fibers followed by composition C in a second step followed by composition B in a third step, i.e. ii), then i), then iii).
[0328] According to a preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: i) the application to the keratin fibers of composition C comprising at least one metallic compound as described previously, ii) optionally a setting time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition C on said fibers, iii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibers, iv) the application to said keratin fibers of composition A according to the invention comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (!) as described above, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or their mixtures, and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, v) optionally a setting time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A on said fibers, (vi) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibers, vii) the application to said keratin fibers of composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, and viii) optionally a exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention on said fibers, ix) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning and x) optionally a step of drying and / or heating the keratin fibers, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0329] According to another preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: i) the application to the keratin fibers of composition C comprising at least one metallic compound as described previously, ii) optionally a setting time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition C on said fibers, iii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibers, iv) the application to said keratin fibers of composition A according to the invention comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (I') as described previously, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or their mixtures, v) optionally a setting time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A on said fibers, (vi) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibers, vii) the application to said keratin fibers of composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures viii) optionally a exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention on said fibers, ix) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning and x) optionally a step of drying and / or heating the keratin fibers, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0330] According to another preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: i) the application to said keratin fibers of composition A according to the invention comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (I') as described previously, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or their mixtures, and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, ii) optionally a exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A on said fibers, iii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibers, iv) the application to the keratin fibers of composition C comprising at least one metallic compound as described previously, v) optionally a setting time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition C on said fibers, (vi) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibers, vii) the application of composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described previously, viii) optionally a exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular of 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably of 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention on said fibers, ix) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning and x) optionally a step of drying and / or heating the keratin fibers, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0331] According to another preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: i) the application to said keratin fibers of composition A according to the invention comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (!) as described previously, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or their mixtures, ii) optionally a exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A on said fibers, iii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibers, iv) the application to the keratin fibers of composition C comprising at least one metallic compound as described previously, v) optionally a setting time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition C on said fibers, (vi) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibers, vii) the application of composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, viii) optionally a exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention on said fibers, ix) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning and x) optionally a step of drying and / or heating the keratin fibers, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0332] According to another preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: i) the application to said keratin fibers of composition A according to the invention comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (!) as described above, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or their mixtures, and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, ii) optionally a exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A on said fibers, iii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibers, iv) the application of composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described previously, v) optionally a exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular of 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably of 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention on said fibers, (vi) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibers, and vii) the application to keratin fibers of composition C comprising at least one metallic compound as described previously, viii) optionally a exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition C on said fibers, ix) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning of said fibers, and x) optionally a step of drying and / or heating the keratin fibers, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0333] According to another preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: i) the application to said keratin fibers of composition A according to the invention comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (I') as described previously, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or their mixtures, ii) optionally a exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A on said fibers, iii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibers, iv) the application of composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, v) optionally a exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention on said fibers, (vi) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibers, and vii) the application to keratin fibers of composition C comprising at least one metallic compound as described previously, viii) optionally a exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition C on said fibers, ix) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning of said fibers, and x) optionally a step of drying and / or heating the keratin fibers, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0334] The term “rinsing step” means the application of water to the keratin fibers.
[0335] Compositions A, B and C according to the invention can be implemented on dry or wet keratin fibers, as well as on all types of fibers, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.
[0336] According to a particular embodiment of the process of the invention, the fibers are washed before application of compositions A, B and C according to the invention.
[0337] The application of compositions A, B and C according to the invention to keratin fibers can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a brush or with the fingers.
[0338] The coloring process, i.e. application of compositions A, B and C according to the invention to keratin fibers, is generally carried out at room temperature (between 15 and 25°C).
[0339] After applying compositions A, B and C to the keratin fibers, it is preferable to have a setting time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A or composition B or composition C on said fibers.
[0340] According to a particular embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: i) the application to the keratin fibers of composition C comprising at least one metallic compound as described previously, ii) optionally a setting time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition C on said fibers, iii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibers, iv) the preparation of composition A according to the invention by mixing a first composition A' and a second composition A” in which the first composition A' comprises: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (!) as described previously, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or their mixtures and the second composition A' ' includes: - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, v) the application to said keratin fibers of composition A according to the invention, vi) optionally a leave-on time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular of 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably of 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A on said fibers, (vii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibers, viii) the application of composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, ix) optionally a exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular of 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably of 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention on said fibers, x) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning step and xi) optionally a step of drying and / or heating the keratin fibers, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0341] In order to allow better conservation of composition A', it preferably comprises a low water content or is anhydrous.
[0342] Preferably, composition A' comprises a water content of between 0.001 and 10% by weight, better still between 0.5 and 9% by weight, more preferably between 1 and 8% by weight relative to the weight of composition A'.
[0343] Composition A” may also contain water.
[0344] According to another particular embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: i) the preparation of composition A according to the invention by mixing a first composition A' and a second composition A” in which the first composition A' comprises: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (!) as described previously, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or their mixtures and the second composition A' ' includes: - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, ii) the application to said keratin fibers of composition A according to the invention, iii) optionally a leave-on time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular of 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably of 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A on said fibers, iv) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibers, v) the application of composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described previously, vi) optionally a exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular of 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably of 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention on said fibers, (vii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibers, viii) the application to keratin fibers of composition C comprising at least one metallic compound as described previously, ix) optionally a setting time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition C on said fibers, x) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning of said fibers, and xi) optionally a step of drying and / or heating the keratin fibers, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0345] According to another particular embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: i) the preparation of composition A according to the invention by mixing a first composition A' and a second composition A” in which the first composition A' comprises: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (!) as described previously, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or their mixtures and the second composition A' ' includes: - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, ii) the application to said keratin fibers of composition A according to the invention, iii) optionally a leave-on time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular of 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably of 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A on said fibers, iv) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibers, v) the application to the keratin fibers of composition C comprising at least one metallic compound as described previously, vi) optionally a setting time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition C on said fibers, (vii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibers, viii) the application of composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, ix) optionally a exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular of 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably of 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention on said fibers, x) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning of said fibers, and xi) optionally a step of drying and / or heating the keratin fibers, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0346] After applying compositions A, B and C according to the invention and before a possible step of applying heat to the keratin fibers, the keratin fibers can be subjected to a drying step, using for example a hair dryer.
[0347] The drying step can be carried out for a period of between 20 seconds and 5 minutes.
[0348] The drying step can be carried out using absorbent paper, a hair dryer, a hair dryer or even in the open air.
[0349] Preferably, the drying step is carried out using a hair dryer at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C, more particularly at a temperature greater than 30°C and less than 110°C.
[0350] After applying compositions A, B and C according to the invention to the keratin fibers, one can wait at least 10 seconds, preferably at least 30 seconds before the step of drying the keratin fibers.
[0351] After application of compositions A, B and C according to the invention and optionally a step of drying the keratin fibers, the method according to the invention may comprise a step of applying heat to the keratin fibers using a heating tool.
[0352] Preferably, the method according to the invention does not comprise a step of applying heat to the keratin fibers using a heating tool in addition to the possible drying step.
[0353] The heat application step of the method of the invention can be implemented using a helmet, a hair dryer, a straightening or curling iron, a hairdryer, etc.
[0354] Preferably, the heat application step of the method of the invention is carried out using a hair dryer and / or a hair straightener, more preferably using a hair dryer.
[0355] During the step of applying heat to the keratin fibers, a mechanical action on the strands can be exerted such as combing, brushing, or passing the fingers through them.
[0356] When the step of applying heat to the keratin fibers is carried out using a helmet or a hair dryer, the temperature is preferably between 30 and 110°C, preferably between 50 and 90°C.
[0357] When the step of applying heat to the keratin fibers is carried out using a straightening iron, the temperature is preferably between 110 and 240°C, preferably between 110 and 200°C. Multi-compartment device (kit)
[0358] The present invention also relates to a device for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising several compartments containing: - in a first compartment, a composition A comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (!) as described above, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or their mixtures, - in a second compartment, a composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, and
[0359] -in a third compartment, a composition C comprising at least one metallic compound as described previously, composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures.
[0360] According to a preferred variant of the invention, the coloring device according to the invention is a device for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising several compartments containing: - in a first compartment, a composition A' comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (I') as described above, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or their mixtures; - in a second compartment, a composition A' ' comprising: - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, - in a third compartment, a composition B comprising: - at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer as described previously, - in a fourth compartment, a composition C comprising at least one metallic compound as described previously.
[0361] According to another preferred variant of the invention, the coloring device according to the invention is a device for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising several compartments containing: - in a first compartment, a composition A comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (I') as described above, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or their mixtures; - in a second compartment, a composition B comprising: - at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer as described above, and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, and - in a third compartment, a composition C comprising at least one metallic compound as described previously.
[0362] The present invention will now be described more specifically by way of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variations, and preferred embodiments of the invention. Examples
[0363] In the examples, the temperature is mentioned in degrees Celsius, and corresponds to room temperature (20-25°C), unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated.
[0364] The following compositions are prepared (in g / 100g of raw material as is, MA: Active Material):
[0365] [Tables 1] Composition Al' 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES)(1) 24 Methyltriethoxysilane (MTES) 72 Ethanol Qsp 100
[0366] [Tables2] Composition Al” Pigment® 10 Ethanol Qsp 100
[0367] [Tables3] Composition A2 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES)(1) 2 Methyltriethoxysilane (MTES) 7 Lactic acid Qs pH= 9.5 Water 45.5 Ethanol Qsp 100
[0368] [Tables4] Compositions B1 B2 Ethylene / sodium acryl ate copolymer (3) 3.8 MA - Hydroxyethylcellulose 2 0.5 Pigment® - 5 Polyvinylpyrrolidone (4) - 4.5 Acrylates / octylacrylamide copolymer (5) - 4.4 MA Ammonia Qs pH= 10 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0369] [Tables5] Composition C Titanium butoxide(6) 1 Cyclopentasiloxane Qsp 100 1. Sold under the trade name KBE-903 by Shin Etsu Company; 2. SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TIN OXIDE sold under the trade name SYNCRYSTAL SILK SILVER by the company ECKART 3. Sold under the trade name ECOSMOOTH SATIN by Dow Corning, 4. Sold under the trade name PVP K30L by the company ISP (Ashland). 5. Sold under the trade name DERMACRYL 79 by the company AKZO NOBEL. 6. Sold under the trade name D-25 by the company Shin Etsu, Protocol:
[0370] Two distinct protocols are applied to the strands of hair: - either composition C is applied to the locks of hair (process according to the invention), - either composition C is not applied to the strands of hair (comparative process).
[0371] * Protocol with compositions Al + B1
[0372] When composition C is applied to strands of hair, composition C is applied with the finger to strands of dry brown hair (HT4), at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of strand.
[0373] The locks of hair are left for 5 minutes at room temperature.
[0374] The strands of hair are then wrung out between the fingers.
[0375] Compositions Al' and Al” are mixed in a 50 / 50 ratio to obtain composition AL
[0376] Composition Al is applied to the locks of hair treated with composition C and to locks of hair not treated with composition C (locks of dry brown hair (HT4)), at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of lock.
[0377] The locks of hair are left for 2 minutes at room temperature.
[0378] Composition B1 is then applied to the locks of hair treated with composition Al + C, at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of lock.
[0379] Composition B1 is also applied to the locks of hair treated only with composition Al, at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of lock.
[0380] The locks of hair are left for 5 minutes at room temperature.
[0381] The strands of hair are then dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0382] The hair strands are left at room temperature for 24 hours.
[0383] *Protocol with compositions A2 + B2
[0384] Composition A2 is applied with the finger to strands of dry brown hair (HT4), at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of strand.
[0385] The locks of hair are left for 5 minutes at room temperature.
[0386] The locks of hair are then wiped with absorbent paper and not dried.
[0387] Composition C is applied with the finger to certain locks of hair treated with composition A2, at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of lock.
[0388] The locks of hair are left for 2 minutes at room temperature.
[0389] The strands of hair are then wrung out between the fingers.
[0390] Composition B2 is then applied to the locks of hair treated with compositions A2 + C and to locks of hair treated only with composition A2, at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of lock.
[0391] The locks of hair are left for 2 minutes at room temperature.
[0392] The strands of hair are then dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0393] The hair strands are left at room temperature for 24 hours.
[0394] The locks of hair thus colored are then subjected to shampooing in order to evaluate the tenacity (the persistence) of the coloring obtained by shampooing, according to the shampooing protocol described below. Shampoo protocol:
[0395] The hair strands are washed using a standard shampoo (Garnier Ultra Doux).
[0396] The strands of hair are then rinsed, combed and dried with a hairdryer.
[0397] The following shampoo is carried out on the strands obtained after applying the hair dryer. Results :
[0398] The color persistence of the strands was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).
[0399] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the color intensity, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.
[0400] The persistence of the color is evaluated by the color difference AE between the colored strands before shampooing, then after having undergone 1 shampoo according to the protocol described above. The lower the AE value, the more the color persists after shampooing.
[0401] The value of AE is calculated according to the following equation:
[0402] [Math.l] AS - (ïL ■ L 'r -i- ("' ' s, 'A;?;' - te,
[0403] In this equation, L*a*b* represent the values measured after coloring the hair and after shampooing, and L0*a0*b0* represent the values measured after coloring the hair but before shampooing.
[0404] [Tableauxô] Compositions Number of shampoos L* a* b* AE Compositions Al + B1 (comparative) 0 37.0 1.0 -2.0 - 1 30.1 1.9 0.5 7.4 Compositions C+Al + B1 (invention) 0 37.1 0.8 -2.0 - 1 34.4 1.7 -0.3 3.3 Compositions A2 + B2 (comparative) 0 43.9 1.1 -1.8 - 1 25.4 2.3 1.9 18.9 Compositions A2 + C+ B2 (invention) 0 45.9 0.7 -1.9 - 1 31.9 1.1 -1.8 14.0
[0405] The locks of hair colored with the compositions C + Al + B1 according to the invention, and washed with a shampoo, have low AE values compared to the locks of hair colored with the compositions Al + B1 only.
[0406] The locks of hair colored with compositions A2 + C + B2 according to the invention, and washed with a shampoo, have low AE values compared to the locks of hair colored with compositions A2 + B2 only.
[0407] Thus, the colored coating of the keratin fibers obtained with the compositions C + Al + B1 according to the invention or with the compositions A2 + C + B2 according to the invention, has good color retention. Indeed, the locks of hair colored with the compositions C + Al + B1 according to the invention or with the compositions A2 + C + B2 according to the invention and washed with a shampoo have good color retention. < / n=n-ar,>
Claims
Claims
1. Process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising: i) a step of applying to the keratin fibres at least one composition C comprising at least one metallic compound chosen from the metallic alkoxides of the following formula (XVIIa): m-cor^ in which: - M represents an atom chosen from transition metals, metals of the lanthanide group of the periodic table, aluminum, boron, tin, bismuth, alkali and alkaline earth metals; - n represents the valence of the atom; - R i, identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, ii) a step of applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition A comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (!) following, their oligomers and / or their mixtures: (D in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as ethoxy; or an aryl group having 6 to 12 carbon atoms; Rb and Rc,; identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group, it being understood that if Ra does not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb and Rc cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; Rd and Re, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 20 carbon atoms; an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; an aminoalkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; - A independently represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 linear or branched carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH - Q represents a carbonyl group (CO); - r denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1., and - at least one alkoxysilane of the following formula (II), its oligomers and / or their mixtures: in which: - R a represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; - R b represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; - R c represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; - k denotes an integer equal to 0; - R f represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and iii) a step of applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition B comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer, composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof; it being understood that steps i), ii) and iii) are carried out successively i), then ii), then iii) or then ii), then i), then iii) or then ii), then iii) then i).
2. Process according to claim 1, in which the alkoxysilane(s), their oligomers and / or their mixtures are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) in which R a represents an ethoxy group, R b and R c are identical and represent an ethyl, R d and R e represent a hydrogen atom, A represents a propyl and r denotes an integer equal to 0.
3. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I) or of formula (I'), their oligomers and / or their mixtures is (are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferentially from 0.75 to 25% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, even better still from 1.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), their oligomers and / or their mixtures are such that: - R a represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl; - R b represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl; - R c represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as methoxy or ethoxy - k denotes an integer equal to 0; - R f represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl, preferably methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) or methyltriethoxysilane (MTES).
5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), its oligomers and / or their mixtures is (are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 90% by weight, preferably from 1 to 75%, preferentially from 3 to 45% by weight, better still from 5 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
6. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid ester homopolymers or copolymers, ethylene homopolymers or copolymers and mixtures thereof.
7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the film-forming polymer(s) is (are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, even better from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which in formula (XVIIa), - M represents an atom chosen from transition metals, metals of the lanthanide group of the periodic table, aluminum, boron, tin, bismuth, alkali and alkaline earth metals such as magnesium, preferably titanium or aluminum; - n represents the valence of the atom; - R i, identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
9. Process according to claim 8, in which the organometallic compound(s) is (are) chosen from metal alkoxides of formula (XVIIa), in which: - M represents an atom chosen from titanium, tin, bismuth, aluminum, zirconium, preferably titanium or aluminum; - n represents the valence of the atom; - R i represents a methyl, ethyl, 2-ethylhexyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl or t-butyl group.
10. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the metal compound(s) are present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
11. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein composition A and / or composition B comprises (comprise) at least one non-ionic non-associative cellulose polymer chosen from hydroxyalkyl(Ci-C4)celluloses, preferably hydroxyethylcellulose and / or hydroxypropylcellulose.
12. Process according to claim 11, in which the non-ionic non-associative cellulose polymer(s) is (are) present in a total amount preferably ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.
13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the coloring agent(s) are present in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 20%, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.005 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B, preferably, the coloring agent(s) are chosen from pigments.
14. Device for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising several compartments containing: - in a first compartment, a composition A comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (!') as described according to any one of claims 1 to 3, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) according to any one of claims 1, 4 or 5, its oligomers and / or their mixtures, - in a second compartment, a composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described according to any one of claims 6 or 7, and - in a third compartment, a composition C comprising at least one metal compound as described according to any one of claims 1 and 8 to 10, composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.